Wine With Wanda

Women in Wine Leadership Symposium

I recently had the honor of moderating the keynote discussion for the tenth annual Women in Wine Leadership Symposium (WWLS). The conversation featured Annette Alvarez-Peters, Jirka Jireh, and Mandy Oser, and covered a wide range of topics, including diversity, mentorship, work-life balance, and working relationships. Several years ago, I received my first invitation to attend WWLS and it has always been one of favorite industry events. Few wine industry gatherings can rival WWLS's combination of camaraderie, education, and networking. Having a seat at the table as a moderator, was truly a career highlight. The keynote discussion also inspired an article in Forbes by Cathrine Todd. 

Click here to watch the symposium or scroll down to the video. 

Vitalie Taittinger Leads an Effervescent Evolution at Champagne Taittinger

“If we consider that Champagne is only tradition, we will create the old Champagne, and I never want to, because Champagne is a lively brand, a lively product,” she says.“This is bubbly; this is sparkling; this is crispy. So, it has to breathe, and it has to continue to evolve.” - Vitalie Taittinger

I recently had the pleasure of interviewing Vitalie Tattinger, president and CEO of Champagne Taittinger, for The SOMM Journal. Founded nearly a century ago, Champagne Taittinger is one of the few remaining family-owned and operated Champagne houses. You can find the profile on page 4 of the October/November 2021issue. 

 

When Clean is Controversial: Avaline's Simple Wines Bring Plenty of Delicious Drama!

Katherine Power & Cameron Diaz, Founders of Avaline 
image courtesy of Avaline

The response from the wine media was fast and furious when actor Cameron Diaz and entrepreneur Katherine Power introduced their Avaline wines to the world last year. Quicker than you could chill a bottle, Avaline’s "clean wine" claims were branded as misleading. It’s true that much of the language surrounding clean wines is cloudy; there is no legal definition of clean wine.

Avaline's website states that “Avaline makes clean, delicious wines with organic grapes. Transparently produced, full of natural goodness, free of unnecessary extras.” It is wonderful that Avaline’s wines are crafted from organic grapes, but that’s not quite revolutionary. Regarding additives, Avaline does filter their wines with bentonite clay, and cream of tartar is added to prevent the formation of crystals. There’s nothing controversial about these additives, but they’re certainly not necessary -- trust me, wine geeks love an unfiltered wine!  

I like the charming and talented Cameron Diaz, she actually seems like someone that it would be fun to share a bottle with, but I confess that I always approach celebrity wines with some skepticism. But I finally accepted an invitation to give Avaline a swirl. From all accounts, Avaline is a hit with consumers, so I wanted to taste the wines sent to me with an open mind. No one likes a wine snob. 


Avaline White Wine ($24)
The label says Made In Spain, but no region is listed. Vintage and information about the blend are also absent. A search on Avaline's website yielded more info: Avaline White is a combination of Xarel-lo, Macabeo, and Malvasia grapes sourced from Can Ràfols dels Caus, respected producers in Penédes, Catalunya. That’s a delightful surprise -- Xarel-lo and Macabeo are essential to producing the Spanish sparkling wine Cava, so it’s a treat to encounter these varieties in a still wine. The label describes the wine as “dry with a crisp fresh finish”. I must admit, this is a pleasant sip. Fresh with perky acidity, flavors of citrus, green apple, pear, fresh-cut grass, and a hint of salinity, this is a charming summer wine to enjoy as an apéritif or paired with salads and fresh seafood. 

Avaline Red Wine ($24)
The label simply states Vin de France with no indication of region or the blend, so once again, I had to do some detective work on Avaline’s website. A blend of Grenache & Syrah from the Southern Rhône, “the winemaking family respectfully asked Avaline to keep their identity confidential." A light-bodied and juicy red with flavors of black cherry, and pops of black pepper and spice, I recommend serving this red slightly chilled. A tasty pairing with barbecue or pizza. 

My final thoughts? Fresh, fruit-forward, and tasty, Avaline’s wines aren’t complex, but they are enjoyable everyday wines. I applaud their commitment to using organic grapes and for avoiding some of the more questionable additives often seen in mass-produced wines. The wines are also Vegan Friendly. The debate about clean wine is an important one, but I wish Avaline would devote some space on their labels to detailing the grape varieties. Personally, I want to know more about the grapes, regions, and producers: come clean with those great details and don't bury them on the website! 

Add Sparkle to Your Day with Champagne Laurent-Perrier

Michelle DeFeo, President of Laurent-Perrier US
photo: Chris George 

A day that includes Champagne and compelling conversation is always cause for celebration, even when the bubbles are shared virtually! I recently had the pleasure of sipping Champagne Laurent-Perrier with Michelle DeFeo, President of Laurent-Perrier US, on Instagram Live. The elegant wines and sparkling conversation added some welcome ooh la la to my day. Watch our chat on IGTV or by clicking the video below. 

Founded in 1812, Laurent-Perrier remains family-owned. Following in the footsteps of the many dynamic women in the House's history, today Laurent-Perrier is managed by sisters Alexandra Pereyre de Nonancourt and Stéphanie Meneux de Nonancourt. Michelle is the first women to lead a subsidiary of Laurent-Perrier and she has built a successful sales team that is 85% women. As a young girl, Michelle became enchanted with France and this passion was the catalyst for an academic and professional journey that led her to Laurent-Perrier. Our chat covers all this and more!

 During our conversation, we tasted Champagne Laurent-Perrier La Cuvée ($49.99) and Champagne Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé ($99).



A blend of 55% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, and 10% Meunier, Champagne Laurent-Perrier La Cuvée was fermented In stainless steel to maintain the freshness and vitality of the grapes. When the House adopted this technique in the 1950's, they were among the first to do so in Champagne. Combined with 4 years of aging, the resulting bubbly is fresh  and full of life, but also complex. Crisp, with lively fruit flavors, and pronounced minerality; sipping La Cuvée is pure joy. 

100% Pinot Noir, Champagne Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé was introduced in 1968, long before "rosé all day" was a trendy mantra. This is not a meek and blah rosé Champagne. Its stunning color is only rivaled by the sensational taste. Rich and beautifully balanced, Cuvée Rosé is quite va va voom, but in the most elegant way. 

Sun, Soul, and Song: Savor Sicily with the Wines of Donnafugata

When exploring wines, José Rallo, CEO and Co-Owner of Donnafugata
encourages everyone to "Discover Sicily. Trust Sicily. You'll be in Sicily with just a sip!"

For the season finale of Wine With Wanda on Instagram Live, I wished for a vibrant, charming, and clever guest, who also makes beautiful wine. 5th generation vintner José Rallo was the obvious choice. CEO & co-owner of the award-winning Sicilian winery Donnafugata, José is a savvy businesswoman with the soul of an artist.

When José is described as the face and voice of Donnafugata, they really mean it. A talented vocalist, José believes in the synergy of wine and music, and her communications strategy includes events such as the "Donnafugata Music & Wine Live" events. José has recorded two CD's and performed around the world at prestigious venues, including the Blue Note in New York City.

Donnafugata was founded in 1983 by José's parents, Gabriella and Giacomo Rallo, and her brother Antonio is the winemaker. Donnafugata is celebrated for their terroir-driven style that expresses an authentic taste of Sicily and the Sicilia DOC. I visited Donnafugata in 2017; it was a magical experience.

Watch the video above, on Instagram, or YouTube to learn more about Donnafugata and to hear José sing a lovely snippet of the jazz song An Older Man Is Like An Elegant Wine. We also discussed the inspiration behind Donnafugata's bold artistic labels and the name of the winery: Donnafugata means woman in flight or escaped woman. 

During our chat, we sipped Donnafugata Sur Sur Grillo 2019 Sicilia DOC ($21) and Donnafugata Mille e Una Notte 2016 Sicilia DOC ($85).


Sur Sur is the first Donnafugata wine that I ever tasted and this sentimental favorite never disappoints me. Crafted from the native Sicilian grape Grillo, this is a beautifully textured and aromatic white wine. Juicy flavors of peach and melon are revved up by mouthwatering minerality and salinity. A sultry sip of Sicilian sunshine! 

 

First produced in 1995, Mille e Una Notte is Donnafugata's flagship wine, and José describes it as the dream of her father Giacomo. The name Mille e Una Notte was selected by her mother Gabriella -- when she tasted the wine for the first time, she told her husband that it was like the powerful literary masterpiece A Thousand and One Nights. A velvety and rich blend of Nero d'Avola, Petit Verdot, and Syrah; it is a big but graceful wine with gorgeous flavors of black fruits, herbs, and earth. Stunning now, classic and elegant Mille e Una Notte is crafted to age beautifully. 

Passionate Pioneers: Bodega Catena Zapata Continues to Innovate and Elevate Argentine Wines

Dynamic is an inadequate descriptor for 4th generation vintner Dr. Laura Catena, Managing Director of Bodega Catena Zapata in Mendoza, Argentina. Known across the globe as one of the most compelling champions of Argentine wines, Laura is also a graduate of Harvard University and Stanford Medical School. For many years, Laura balanced her demanding career as a physician with guiding her family's celebrated winery to greater heights. 


Bodega Catena Zapata's La Pirámide winery in Mendoza. 
image courtesy of Catena Zapata

Malbec may seem ubiquitous now, but during our recent Instagram Live chat Laura shared the challenges she faced in the early 90's when trying to introduce Catena Zapata's wines to the United States. Catena Zapata set a new standard for quality in South America and is widely regarded as the pioneer of Malbec and high-altitude viticulture from Argentina. Catena Zapata's terroir-driven wines elegantly reveal Malbec's full range of expression. 

Watch the video above, or visit Instagram or YouTube, to view my conversation with Laura. While discussing her family's winemaking legacy and philosophy, we also chatted about her charming new book, Gold in the Vineyards: Illustrated Stories of the World’s Most Celebrated Vineyards ($14.99).  


I had the pleasure of visiting Catena Zapata during my 2015 trip to Mendoza. We didn’t meet at that time, but since then I’ve had the pleasure of hearing Laura speak at several wine events in New York City. A few years ago, Laura said something that really stuck with me and I quote her often. Someone once asked Laura what’s next for Argentina after Malbec. She wondered if they would also ask Burgundy what’s next after Pinot Noir. Well played, Laura! 


Catena Malbec 2018 ($24) is a great introduction to the Catena Zapata style. A blend of grapes from four different vineyards, it is intense and velvety with no rough edges. Ripe but not jammy, with lovely kisses of spice and flinty minerality.


Bold and balanced, Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino 2017 ($120) is a wine that powerfully expresses the complexity and charms of Malbec. High-altitude old vines combined with meticulous winemaking all add up to a very special sip with beautifully integrated flavors of fruit, earth, spice, and minerality. The stunning label for Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino tells the story of Malbec by depicting four female figures who represent different landmarks of the grape’s history in France and its ascendence in Argentina. The women pictured on the bottle are Eleanor of Aquitaine, The Immigrant, Madam Phylloxera, and Laura's sister, Adrianna Catena.

Of course, Malbec is Argentina's flagship varietal, but it also produces other high quality wines. I've noticed that many of Mendoza's most celebrated Malbec producers have a great affection and aptitude for Chardonnay. Catena Alta Chardonnay 2017($33) is a stellar sip. Crafted from Chardonnay grapes from 2 high-altitude vineyards, it is rich and juicy without sacrificing crispness. 

Gary Farrell Single-Vineyard Pinot Noir Is Intriguing and Precise

image courtesy of Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery

"I strongly believe in the Russian River Valley's capacity to consistently produce world class wines. The key is cool breezes and fog from the nearby Pacific Ocean blanket."
-Theresa Heredia, Winemaker, Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery

When does a wine cross the threshold from being good to very good, or even great? I don't seek perfection in wines because I'm not certain it exists. And let's be honest, barring technical flaws that render a wine undrinkable, perfect wines, just like self-righteous people, can be a bit boring. For me, a wine goes beyond the ordinary when it is intriguing. I'm not sure if the art of intrigue is taught at winemaking school, but intriguing wines don't just taste good; they captivate you. Each sip sparks an emotion, a question, a revelation. Winemaker Theresa Heredia, of Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, certainly knows a thing or two about crafting intriguing wines.

When Gary Farrell founded his eponymous winery in 1982, Sonoma's Russian River Valley was not officially an AVA. He was indeed a pioneer in crafting small-lot single-vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Theresa Heredia has been at the helm of winemaking at Gary Farrell Winery since 2012 and carries on this legacy.

Theresa's studies honed her scientific approach to winemaking: she earned a bachelor's degree in biochemistry from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo, and was a Ph.D. candidate in chemistry, with an emphasis in enology, at the University of California, Davis. However, she opted out of the Ph.D. program to pursue hands-on experience as a winemaker.

image courtesy of Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery

I recently tasted several Gary Farrell single-vineyard Pinot Noir wines in a Zoom webinar led by Theresa. Her scientific prowess and commitment to precision were apparent, but Theresa also understands that there's an ineffable dimension to winemaking that adds a bit of magic.

I believe that when crafting single-vineyard wines, a cookie-cutter approach must be avoided. For the single-vineyard designation to mean something beyond a mere geographical description, the wine must convey that terroir's unique qualities. It should capture the essence of the variety as it manifests itself in that vineyard. Gary Farrell's single-vineyard Pinot Noir meets that criteria.

Gary Farrell has an impressive selection of single-vineyard Pinot Noir, and I've highlighted three that I found particularly intriguing. One of the reasons why winemakers worldwide are enamored with Pinot Noir is its capacity to express terroir transparently. Tasting these Gary Farrell wines side-by-side is a priceless master class in better understanding how a well-crafted Pinot Noir stays true to the variety's character and conveys a unique sense of place and time. My tasting focused on 2016 vintages, but the Gary Farrell website features many 2017 vintages.

Tasting notes courtesy of Gary Farrell Winery

2016 Gary Farrell Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir ($70) is a fantastic introduction to the Gary Farrell style. “This Bien Nacido Pinot Noir is like an elixir of exotic red fruit, exuding aromas of Açaí, Goji, pomegranate, dried stems, cardamom, powdered ginger and star anise, all balanced by an earthy under layer of dried stems, toasted cedar and sandalwood. The array of palate flavors is simultaneously fruit-driven and savory, exploding with hints of wild strawberry, raspberry, Mangosteen and crushed herbs, all wrapped up in a blanket of velvety grape tannins. The juicy acidity creates a persistent, tangy sensation, while the spicy oak and wood tannins add a polishing finish to this beautiful wine.”


If you really want to geek out, taste 2016 Gary Farrell Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Noir ($55) and 2016 Gary Farrell Hallberg Vineyard-Dijon Clones Pinot Noir ($60) side-by-side to see how different clones respond to the same terroir. The Hallberg is described as “Lush aromas of dark cherry, currants, and cola naturally follow the deep ruby hue of this wine in glass. Dried mushrooms, black tea, and an array of fresh violets, rose petals, and a hint of peppermint provide complexity and intrigue. Exceptional palate weight coupled with a tremendous concentration of fruit flavors and zesty acidity deliver a balanced package of power and finesse.”

And my favorite of the three, the Hallberg Vineyard-Dijon Clones is described as “A captivating bouquet of savory herbs and spice introduce this complex offering from the Hallberg Vineyard. Generous notes of white pepper, black tea, cloves and tobacco leaf are in the forefront but slowly give way to the classic red fruit aromas of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Flavors of dried cranberries and fresh raspberries entice the palate while subtle tannins from lightly toasted French oak barrels lend finesse. Exceptionally soft and approachable, this is wine is impeccably balanced from start to finish.”

Celebrating the Sparkling Legacy of Champagne Henriot

 

Amelie Derrieux-Sable, Director of Marketing, Champagne Henriot

I’m still smiling after my sparkling Instagram Live conversation with Amelie Derrieux‑Sable​, Director of Marketing for Champagne Henriot. Known for their distinctive Chardonnay driven style, Champagne Henriot was founded in Reims in 1808 and is one of the few remaining family-owned houses in Champagne.

Watch our chat and tasting by clicking the video above, on Instagram, or YouTube. We started off with their flagship Champagne Henriot Blanc de Blancs ($65). Aged for 4 years on the lees, it is an elegant expression of Chardonnay that sashays across the palate with delicate bubbles, crisp fruit, and that lovely touch of brioche that I always look for in Champagne. We then tasted Champagne Henriot Millésime 2008 ($100), which marks the House’s 200^th vintage. A 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the 2008 was aged for 10 years on the lees and has a captivating complexity -- hints of nuts and ginger meld beautifully with vibrant fruit and crisp minerality.

Champagne isn't just for toasting! From appetizers to main courses, Amelie provided some wonderful pairing suggestions that show how beautifully Champagne Henriot can be enjoyed throughout the meal. And if you’re wondering how to pronounce Henriot, Amelie says just remember that the H & T are silent! 

Las Moradas de San Martín Showcases the Beauty of Old-Vine Garnacha

Isabel Galindo, winemaker for Las Moradas de San Martín 

My recent Instagram Live chat with Isabel Galindo, winemaker for Las Moradas de San Martín, inspired me to give her a nickname: La Reina de Garnacha (Queen of Garnacha.) Isabel makes Garnacha that sings in the glass. There's nothing generic about the wines of Las Moradas. Made from old-vine Garnacha, with some vines more than 100-years-old, the wines of Las Moradas tell a story of terroir and winemaking that respects nature. Located just one hour from Madrid, Las Moradas is an oasis that feels a world away from the hustle and bustle of city life. I visited Las Moradas in 2017 and it is a treasure. 

Isabel describes Las Moradas Garnacha as "wines that grow"; they may seem a bit timid in the beginning, but they open and reveal the fullness of their personality as you sip. Watch our conversation on IGTV, YouTube, or below to learn more about the wines of Las Moradas de San Martín, Isabel's tasting notes, and her pairing suggestions. Hint: you may want to get some delicious Jamón Ibérico! 

During our chat, we tasted Senda 2016 ($15.99) and Initio 2013 ($12.99). Don't let the affordable prices fool you; these organically-farmed old-vine Garnacha wines have integrity and really over-deliver. Senda is fresher and younger, but hints of herbs and a perceptible minerality add an elegant structure to its bright red fruit flavors. Initio takes it up a notch; it is richer and more complex, with layers of red & black fruit, herbs, licorice, graphite and cocoa, but it is not a heavy wine, and lively acidity keeps Initio soaring. Tasting them side-by-side is a delicious lesson in detecting the nuances of wine and understanding the expressive range of Garnacha. 

Maremma Memories: Where the Tuscan Spirit is Wild and the Wines are Magical

Vineyards at Fattoria di Magliano, in the heart of Tuscany's Maremma region. 

Maybe I should have consulted a psychic or given a crystal ball a vigorous shake? I certainly would have benefitted from some forewarning that my October 2019 journey to the Maremma region of Tuscany would be my last trip abroad for the foreseeable future. As the COVID-19 pandemic continues to keep much of the world on lockdown, memories of past journeys are more precious than ever. Who knows when I'll travel overseas again, but I feel fortunate that the wines, landscapes, and people of Maremma are seared in my mind.  

The world's love affair with Tuscany and its wines is well-established, but we often overlook that Tuscany is not a monolith; the region consists of several different winemaking areas. While Chianti and Montalcino may be household names, you're almost guaranteed to get a quizzical look when you mention Maremma, even though its viticultural history goes back to the Etruscans. Known as Tuscany's wildest region, surely no one could have imagined that the former malarial marshland would transform into one of its most acclaimed wine regions. Maremma's reputation for wildness is bolstered by the charmingly rustic butteri, cowboys and cattle breeders that are a treasured link to Maremma's past and still roam the landscape.


The beach at Maremma Regional Park, a protected 25,000 acre nature reserve. 

Located in the southern part of Tuscany, Maremma Toscana DOC wines are produced across the entire province of Grosseto. Maremma's almost 9,000 hectares of vineyards span the breezy Maremma coastline, the slopes of the dormant volcano Mount Amiata, the Argentario peninsula, and Giglio Island. This diversity isn't just pleasing to the eye, but it also provides an abundance of unique soil and climatic conditions ideal for growing excellent grapes. And, we all know that excellent wines start with great grapes. Maremma is home to several charming indigenous grapes, including Ciliegiolo, which means little cherry. Ciliegiolo may be unfamiliar, but chances are you know its offspring; it is a parent of Sangiovese, Tuscany's most famous grape variety, and the foundation of many of its greatest wines. But an abundance of indigenous and international grape varieties also thrive in Maremma, including Sangiovese, Vermentino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.

There is no one style of Maremma wine. Maremma's crisp & mineral-driven whites, fruity reds, and complex age-worthy reds reflect the diversity of the terroir and grape varieties. The Consorzio Tutela Vini della Maremma Toscana (Consortium for the Protection of Maremma Toscana Wines), who graciously hosted my 2019 trip, stated that "Ripe fruit, subtle complexity, crispness and a pleasant mouth feel are common characteristics of the wines from Maremma. No other area in Tuscany can offer such a wide variety of wines, also due to the essential characteristics of the grape varieties grown here."

The COVID-19 pandemic may have temporarily clipped our travel wings, but the essence of Maremma is just a bottle away. Fill your glass with wines from one of these Maremma wines and let them transport you. Please note that I opted not to provide detailed tasting notes on the wines. I tasted many wonderful wines during my Maremma trip and these were some of my favorites. For tasting notes and other technical details, please click on the bottle or winemaker image; this will lead you the winery's website for additional information.  

Rocca di Frassinello


A joint venture between the Chianti Classico estate Castellare di Castellina and the iconic French wine producers Domaines Barons de Rothschild - Château Lafite, Rocca di Frassinello is a prime example of the excitement and investment Maremma generates from established winemakers. Founded in 2007, 90 of the estate's 500 hectares are planted to vineyards.

Adding further allure to the estate's natural beauty, Rocca di Frassinello's stunning winery was designed by world-renowned architect Renzo Piano. Under the leadership of award-winning head winemaker Alessandro Cellai, Rocca di Frassinello's wines are acclaimed for their elegance and authenticity.

Suggested Wines: 


Rocca di Frassinello 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 60% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot. $59

Rocca di Frassinello Baffonero 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Merlot. $240



Rocca di Frassinello Le Sughere di Frassinello 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 50% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. $24

L'Azienda Agricola Biologica Basile


I visited Maremma for the first time in 2015, and the afternoon I spent at Basile Organic Wine Farm was one of the highlights. So, it was a great pleasure to see Giovan Battista Basile again during my 2019 visit. Originally from Naples, Giovan left practicing law to work the vineyards when he and his brother Domenico purchased an abandoned hilltop vineyard in Maremma and poured their heart and soul into restoring the land. The winery was founded in 1999 and Giovan manages the organically farmed vineyards and vines.

Suggested Wine: Comandante 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 50% Sangiovese, 50% Merlot. ($25)

Val delle Rose

Famiglia Cecchi, an iconic producer of Chianti Classico, also saw Maremma's tremendous potential and acquired Val delle Rose in 1996. I visited Val delle Rose for the first time in 2015, and it was thrilling to see how the winery has evolved. Never losing sight of crafting wines that are true to the terroir, they also embrace innovation.


During my recent visit, I tasted several wines with winemaker Andrea Fioriello, including compelling expressions of Vermentino and Ciliegiolo. When asked about the aging of their wines in oak, Andrea said, "We use the wood as an instrument to make the wine more ready, more round, more soft." But he's careful to not overdo it and crafts wines with great freshness, grace, and minerality. 

Suggested Wines:


Val delle Rose Cobalto 2017 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Vermentino. A unique Vermentino that was fermented in a combination of amphora, oak, and stainless steel vessels and aged 10 months on the lees. $26 


Val delle Rose Ciliegiolo 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Ciliegiolo. $30

Tenuta Belguardo


Francesco Mazzei, Managing Director of Mazzei, is also president of the Consorzio Tutela Vini della Maremma Toscana. Established in 2014, this consortium of wine grape growers, winemakers, and wine bottlers protects and promotes the quality of Maremma Toscana DOC wines. Mazzei stated, "An appellation has to reflect what a territory is about, and Maremma is a place of many varieties."

Founded in 1435, Mazzei is another venerable Chianti Classico producer that set their sights on Maremma. The Mazzei family purchased their Maremma estate, Tenuta Belguardo, in the mid 1990's. Located in the heart of the Maremma, on the hills between Grosseto and Montiano, and next to the Tyrrhenian Sea, the 70-hectare property has an ideal terroir for cultivating expressive grapes of exceptional quality. 

Suggested Wine: Tenuta Belguardo 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc. $60. 

Fattoria di Magliano


Located in the heart of Maremma, Fattoria di Magliano was founded in 2007. Their consulting winemaker, Graziana Grassini, is one of Italy's most acclaimed enologists and was a protégé of the legendary Giacomo Tachis. Fattoria di Magliano's gorgeous estate includes 52 acres of vineyards where they grow Sangiovese and Vermentino primarily, in addition to Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Ansonica. The wines of Fattoria di Magliano display impressive exuberance and vitality, but are also very elegant and earthy.

Suggested Wines: Fattoria di Magliano Altizi 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Cabernet Franc. $65


Fattoria di Magliano Poggio Bestiale 2014 Maremma Toscana DOC. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot. $60

Rocca di Montemassi

Alessandro Gallo, winemaker and technical director for Rocca di Montemassi hails from Piemonte, but he still typifies the positive energy of the winemakers I met in Maremma: no matter where they're originally from, their love of this land is intense. Alessandro describes Rocca di Montemassi as a "wine farm" where winemaking is in harmony with other agricultural activities.


The 430-hectare estate, of which 180 are planted to vines, is also home to Maremmana cows, wheat fields, and olive trees. The Zonin family, a family with seven generations of winemaking experience and nine wineries in seven of Italy's most important wine regions, acquired the property in 1999.

Suggested Wine: Rocca di Montemassi 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 35% Syrah, 35% Petit Verdot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. $30. 

Sassotondo


Agronomist Carla Benini, and her husband Edoardo Ventimiglia, purchased their Maremma estate in 1994 and produced their first vintage in 1997. Sassotondo's organically-farmed vineyards are alive with biodiversity, a testament to Carla's belief that "biodiversity protects you".  Sassotondo's portfolio includes several expressions of Ciliegiolo that were vinified differently to showcase this indigenous grape's capacity to create distinct styles of wine.

Suggested Wine:  Sassotondo Ciliegiolo 2018 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Ciliegiolo. ($18)

Maremma is More Than Wine


View from my room at the boutique hotel, Torre Cala Piccola. 

Wine is beautifully integrated into Maremma's culture, but the region is full of treasures.  Stunning landscapes, historical sites, and world-class dining make it a top-notch destination. For accommodations, I recommend the luxurious Terme di Saturnia Spa & Resort, where you can soak your troubles away in their world-famous ancient thermal waters. If you're craving a more laidback seaside vibe, Torre Cala Piccola is perched above the Argentario Sea and has breathtaking views of Giulio and Giannutri islands. Hotel Miramare is no-frills but comfortable and the beach is right at your feet! 

From rustic country fare to haute cuisine, I ate like a queen in Maremma. Recommended restaurants: Da Caino in Montemerano, where Chef Valeria Piccini presents an elegant twist on homestyle cooking.


Chef Valeria Piccini, Da Caino restaurant 



Chef Piccini's "Tortelli Cacio e Pere con Salsa de Barba Rossa (pasta stuffed with pear & cheese, with Barba Rossa grape sauce) 




Seafood lovers will gobble every fresh morsel presented by Chef Massimiliano Ciregia at Osteria del Mare in Castiglione della Pescaia. 

 Chef Ciregia's interpretation of the traditional fish stew, Cucciucco. 

I look forward to returning Maremma again one day and feeling as blissful as I did when this photo was taken in the vineyards of Rocca di Frassinello. Until then, I'll sip and daydream! 

Sip This: Blueprint Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

Times have dramatically changed since I started blogging twelve years ago. Newer social media platforms like Instagram have fostered a vibrant and influential wine community. Surely, I'm not the only one that spends too much time scrolling through photos of beautiful vineyards and mouthwatering wines. In addition to my Instagram Live interview series, I frequently post wine reviews on Instagram and thought it would be great to start sharing reviews of the standout wines here on the blog. 

Shannon, Robin, and Erin Lail

I recently tasted two superb wines from Lail Vineyards in Napa Valley - Blueprint Sauvignon Blanc 2018 ($40) and Blueprint Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($90). Winery founder, Robin Lail, can trace her family's winemaking history in Napa back to 1879 with the founding of the legendary Inglenook. Twenty-five years ago, Robin founded Lail Vineyards with her daughters, Erin and Shannon. Lail has embraced "carbon farming" techniques that minimize carbon dioxide production and maximize carbon sequestration without sacrificing wine quality. Robin is also the U.S. Representative to The Porto Protocol, whose mission is "to drive collaborative action by bringing together a network of change-makers and workable climate solutions for and within the wine world."

Lail Vineyards says that the name Blueprint celebrates "the pioneers and architects of innovation for putting the health of our planet ahead of quarterly reports and the bottom line." Lail donates ten percent of sales from Blueprint wines purchased on their website to organizations fighting climate change. Lail's winemaker is the wildly talented and acclaimed Philippe Melka.

Lini 910 Makes Lambrusco the Way It Was Meant to Be

Alicia Lini, fourth-generation vintner, Lini 910

Lambrusco is a fantastic thirst quencher during these steamy summer days. Pop a cork on a bottle of Lini 910 and discover why these fizzy & chilled red wines from the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy are so special. I recently had the pleasure of chatting with fourth-generation vintner Alicia Lini on Instagram Live.

Alicia's great-grandfather founded the winery in 1910 and Lini 910 is celebrated for their fresh, food-friendly, and traditional dry style of Lambrusco -- the complete antithesis of those sticky sweet Lambrusco wines that flooded the market in the 1970s and 80s. Lini 910 is also very innovative, and their portfolio includes rosé and white Lambrusco. From pasta to pizza, burgers to BBQ, a perfectly chilled glass of Lini 910 Lambrusco pairs beautifully with a wide variety of foods, including Emilia-Romagna's famous delicacies like Prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Watch the video above, on IGTV, or YouTube to learn more. During our chat, we tasted Lini 910 “Labrusca” Lambrusco Rosé ($17) and Lini 910 “Labrusca” Lambrusco Rosso ($17).

Renaissance Woman Patricia Ortiz Makes Wine Off-the-Beaten Path

I recently had the pleasure of traveling through my wine glass to Argentina with Patricia Ortiz, President and Owner of Tapiz, Zolo, and Wapisa wineries. A true renaissance woman, Patricia is an avid art collector and former nephrologist. Patricia traded in hospital life for the vineyard, and now she strives for both artistic and scientific excellence in winemaking. Truly a force to be reckoned with, in 2019, Patricia became the first woman President of Bodegas de Argentina.

Tapiz and Zolo wineries are both located in Mendoza, but during our chat, we focused on Wapisa. Located just 25 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, on the banks of the Río Negro, Wapisa is the only winery that exists in this Argentine Patagonian terroir. Wapisa means “whale” in the indigenous language of the Yamanas who used to inhabit the nearby archipelago of Tierra del Fuego. While chatting with Patricia, I tasted Wapisa Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Wapisa Pinot Noir 2018, and Wapisa Malbec 2017. You can taste the coastal influence in the freshness of these wines. Taking full advantage of their proximity to the ocean, Patricia shared that Wapisa is also experimenting with cellaring wines underwater! To learn more about Patricia and her winemaking philosophy, watch the video above or on IGTV or YouTube. 


Wapisa Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($14.99) 
"With its distinctive, vivid aromas and zesty acidity, Wapisa Sauvignon Blanc expresses the complexity of the soil and the sea breezes of the Atlantic Patagonia region. Inviting whiffs of citrus and delicate white flowers with a touch of fresh ginger and sea-breeze. On the palate, flavors of pink grapefruit and kafir lime come together with tropical guava to create a refreshing and utterly unique wine."

Wapisa Pinot Noir 2018 ($21.99)
"Aromas of strawberries and fresh raspberries, with notes of rose petals and cherries. On the palate, it is fresh and delicate, with firm tannins of silky texture."

Wapisa Malbec 2017 ($21.99) 
"Bright red color with intense violet tints. Aromas of red fruits such as black cherries and mineral touches stand out. Spicy and vanilla aromas are provided by the oak. On the palate, it presents mature tannins and a balanced acidity."

Take A Sparkling Journey to the Mountains of Italy with Ferrari Trentodoc

Camilla Lunelli

During these seemingly endless days of social distancing and closed borders, virtual wine tastings have provided me with much needed moments of bliss. On Instagram Live, I've had the opportunity to connect with wine industry friends around the globe. I recently had a chance to share wine and conversation through cyberspace with someone that I've long admired, Camilla Lunelli, Proprietor and Communication & PR Director for Ferrari Trento/Lunelli Group. Camilla's family produces one of my favorite wines, Ferrari Trentodoc. Our conversation was especially poignant for me because it was less than a year ago that I visited Ferrari's vineyards in Trentino, in the northeast of Italy. Given the state of the world, who knows when travel will be prudent again? Traveling through our wine glass is more fulfilling than ever.

During our conversation, we sipped Ferrari Brut Rosé, a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Camilla also shared tasting notes on their superb 100% Chardonnay Ferrari Brut. Watch the video above, on IGTV, or YouTube.

Founded in 1902 by Giulio Ferrari, Ferrari is the most awarded and renowned producer of one of Italy's finest wines: Trentodoc. Inspired by Champagne, Ferrari was determined to show the world that Italy could produce elegant sparkling wines with character and complexity. Recognizing that the soil and climate of Trentino provided the ideal conditions for his venture, Ferrari made Italy's first significant plantings of Chardonnay. The name Trentodoc cleverly combines Trento, the wine's city of origin, with DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), an official designation used to classify Italian wines. Produced in the same labor-intensive manner as Champagne, Trentodoc's bubbles are created by a second fermentation in the bottle. Known as sparkling wine from the mountains, the altitude and climate of the Dolemites have a positive and magical impact on the grapes. Elegant, refreshing, and with an authentic sense of place, Ferrari Trentodoc is something special!


 Ferrari Brut Trentodoc ($27.99) was my dazzling introduction to Trentodoc and never fails to impress me. Consistently crisp and clean, this 100% Chardonnay bubbly has the perfect balance between fresh flavors of citrus and apple with a hint of bready yeast. 


Ferrari Brut Rosé Trentodoc ($36.99) is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Its vibrant red fruit flavors and warm yeasty notes make it a very versatile food pairing. Try it with fish, poultry, and even pizza! 

Ponzi Vineyards Celebrates 50 Years of Innovative Winemaking in Oregon

 

Anna Maria Ponzi
Co-owner, President and Director of Sales & Marketing for Ponzi Vineyards 

Second generation vintner Anna Maria Ponzi, of Ponzi Vineyards, had no shortage of exciting news to share during our recent Instagram Live chat. Her parents, Dick and Nancy Ponzi, uprooted their family in the late 1960s to pursue a dream of producing world-class Pinot Noir. True pioneers, the Ponzis were among the first to see the potential of Oregon's Willamette Valley to produce wines of exceptional quality and character. They founded their namesake winery in 1970, and fifty years later their well-earned reputation as one of America's finest and most innovative wineries is stronger than ever. 

Watch the video of my chat with Anna Maria above, on YouTube, or on Instagram to learn more about the Ponzi family's winemaking journey. Anna Maria also shared info about her new memoir, Pinot Girl: A Family. A Region. An Industry. We also discussed the new Laurelwood District AVA; the Ponzi family played a pivotal role in the establishment of this latest American Viticultural Area within the Willamette Valley.

“They described Pinot Noir as a thoughtful wine saying something about how it didn’t call attention to itself–instead it quietly seduced the drinker with its hints of black cherry, mild cigar, and cedar. They would go on and on about how one sip invited complex flavors into the mouth and how hints of earth, mushroom, plum, meat, and truffles could be detected. It all sounded pretty weird to us. We just giggled and made faces when they described how wine tasted like food.” - excerpt from Pinot Girl

Maria's sister, Luisa, assumed winemaking duties from their father in 1993 and Ponzi Vineyards is the nation’s only winery solely owned and operated by second generation sisters.

During our conversation we tasted Ponzi Chardonnay Reserve 2016 ($42) and Ponzi Pinot Noir Reserve 2016 ($65). Both wines are beautifully balanced, expressive, and elegant. Maria shared wonderful tasting notes during our chat. You can also click the wine bottle images to view the detailed descriptions on the Ponzi website. 

 

A Taste of Spain and Hungary with the Wines of Tempos Vega Sicilia

Diana Kelley, Regional Manager America, Tempos Vega Sicilia

The eighth episode of Wine With Wanda on Instagram Live showcased Tempos Vega Sicilia. For many wine lovers, just hearing the words Tempos Vega Sicilia elicits a powerful emotional response. Their wines are legendary. But why? To answer that question, Diana Kelley, Regional Manager America for Tempos Vega Sicilia, joined me in a lively conversation that explored their winemaking philosophy and commitment to quality and authenticity that prevails at their four wineries in Spain and their winery in Hungary. 

To watch the conversation, click the video above or view it on YouTube. 


Aromatic, crisp, and lively, Oremus is a refreshing dry Furmint with great minerality.  

During our conversation, we tasted Oremus Mandolás Tokaji Furmint 2017 ($29.99) from their estate in Hungary and Pintia 2014 ($79) from vineyards located on the banks of the Duero River, within the Toro Appellation in Spain. Diana shares detailed tasting notes in the video. 

100% Tinta del Toro, "Pintia 2014 has a frank, expressive nose; intense sweet fruity aromas well integrated with a nuance of spicy woodiness." 

A Taste of Lodi and the Sierra Foothills: The Wines of Ironstone Vineyards

    Joan Kautz, Co-owner and Vice President of International Operations, Ironstone Vineyards

The Sierra Foothills may be best known as the epicenter of the California Gold Rush, but the region also has a rich wine history and the Kautz family has played an essential role. They settled in Lodi 1926 and opened their first winery in 1968. This family business has grown tremendously over four generations and their holdings in Lodi and the Sierra Foothills now span more than 5,000 acres. They protect these precious acres, and the environment, by adhering to sustainable viticulture practices.

I had the pleasure of learning more about the Kautz legacy, and their Lodi and Sierra Foothills wines, in an Instagram Live conversation with Joan Kautz, a fourth generation member of this influential winemaking family. If you missed the IG Live chat and tasting, watch it above or on YouTube. Equipped with broad knowledge of agriculture, wine making, and consumer trends; Joan has held the position of Vice President of International Operations for the family’s wine portfolio since 1993. Under her leadership, the Kautz family's wines are available in 50 countries around the world. 


2018 Ironstone Vineyards Chardonnay
"Our Chardonnay exhibits refreshing aromas of fresh green apples, citrus, and tropical fruits. As it dances across the palate, light citrus layered with fresh peaches fills the mouth as soft vanilla and oak notes linger. Good acidity gives it a crisp balance with a creamy medium-length finish."

During our conversation, we tasted Ironstone Reserve Cabernet Franc 2017 and Ironstone Chardonnay 2018. Ironstone is currently selling both wines on their website as a specially priced set for $37. You can also find Ironstone's wines at retailers around the country. 

2017 Ironstone Vineyards Reserve Cabernet Franc 
"Our Reserve Cabernet Franc is an elegant, rich yet soft wine. With fleshy black cherry, blackberry,  and spicy oak aromas this seductive Cabernet Franc is worth drinking now or cellaring for a special occasion. Succulent, dark fruit flavors of plum, black cherry with a hint of sweet oak fills the palate and gives way to a smooth, medium finish."

Love Leads at Loveblock Winery in New Zealand

 

"Going organic is a choice, and for us, feels like the right thing to do. Our intention is to nurture the ecosystem of the soil and the vines and give back to its roots as naturally as possible. Ultimately, I believe the resulting wine is better and truer to its terroir.”
 Erica Crawford, Founder & CEO of Loveblock Winery

When Erica and Kim Crawford stood on the hills high above the hustle and bustle of Marlborough's Awatere Valley, they fell in love with the breathtaking view below and the untamed land at their feet. They aren't kidding when they say "Loveblock was forged from a love affair with a view and a challenge."

When Erica founded Loveblock, she hired the best winemaker she knows -- her husband and award-winning winemaker Kim Crawford. I met Kim several months ago and his commitment to authentic and quality winemaking has earned him well-deserved accolades in New Zealand and around the globe. 

I recently interviewed Erica for my Instagram Live series. Watch the video above or on YouTube. During our conversation, we discussed Loveblock's commitment to low intervention farming, which they believe enables the wine to show its true and naked terroir. We also discussed Erica's disdain for wine snobs! You'll even learn why so many wines from New Zealand are bottled under screw cap. Grab a bottle of Loveblock, watch the video, and discover why “Loveblock is a true love story, it is one of depth and dedication." Erica and I tasted three Loveblock wines during our chat. 


Loveblock Pinot Gris 2018, Marlborough ($22.99) 
Dry but fruit-forward with lingering flavors of stone fruit and lime. Quite luscious! 
 

Loveblock Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Marlborough ($28)
Not aggressively zesty but absolutely vibrant, this elegant Sauvignon Blanc is crisp and juicy with flavors of white peach, tropical fruits, and a hint of herbs. 2% Pinot Gris in the blend adds a lush roundness. Rated 90 points by Wine Spectator and recently featured as their Wine Pick of the Day.


Loveblock Pinot Noir 2018, Central Otago ($29.99)
Rated 93 points by Wine Spectator and #46 on their Top 100 Wines of 2019, this medium-bodied Pinot Noir has vibrant red fruit flavors and a hint of earthy mushroom. 

For the Love of Family & Vino: A Conversation with Dominga Cotarella of Famiglia Cotarella Winery

 “Tradition is important, but it is the beginning of the process.” - Dominga Cotarella

The dynamic Dominga Cotarella of Famigila Cotarella recently joined me for a lively conversation on Instagram Live. In 1979, Dominga's father, Riccardo, and his brother Renzo founded the famed Falesco winery. Riccardo is one of Italy's most famous consulting enologists, and Renzo is the longtime CEO and chief winemaker for Antinori. In 2016, Dominga, and her cousins Marta and Enrica, officially took control of the family business. To mark this new chapter in their winemaking journey, they renamed the business Famiglia Cotarella to emphasize the family behind the label.

Watch the video here or on YouTube to learn more about the Cotarella family, their winemaking philosophy, and the hospitality school they founded several years ago, Intrecci. 

During our conversation, Dominga and I tasted two of Famiglia Cotarella's celebrated 100% Merlot wines, the single-vineyard Montiano 2015 ($66) and Sodale 2015 ($25).  


First produced in 1993, Montiano is a compelling and full expression of Merlot. Rich, juicy, and concentrated but impressively fresh and graceful, Montiano shows that Merlot can be pretty and powerful.  

Also 100% Merlot, 2015 is the first vintage of Sodale. It is the softer, fresher, and more approachable cousin to the acclaimed Montiano. An approachable yet impeccably made wine that is perfect for easy and elegant everyday drinking. 

A Conversation with Wine Educator & Brand Ambassador May Matta-Aliah

The second episode of Wine With Wanda on Instagram Live featured wine educator and brand ambassador May Matta-Aliah. May holds a Diploma in Wine & Spirits from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET). She is also a Certified Educator (WSET) and holds the Advanced Sommelier Certification from the American Sommelier Association. As a brand ambassador, May represents wine and spirits regions and brands as their primary educator and ambassador. Her current brand ambassador clients include Franciacorta, Armagnac, and Alto Adige. 

During our chat, May describes her wine journey, the role of formal wine education, what makes Alto Adige such a special wine region, and why you shouldn't judge a wine solely by its color. In the video we're both sipping wines from Alto Adige; May's pick was Nals Margreid Galea Schiava 2018 Alto Adige DOC (around $20) and mine was Elena Walch Vigna Castel Ringberg Pinot Grigio 2018 Alto Adige DOC (around $29). 

 

Say Hello to Wine With Wanda!

When I created The Black Dress Traveler in 2008, I never imagined the twists and turns my journey would take. Writing and travel have always been important parts of my life and I’ve been humbled and encouraged by everyone that has followed my adventures for so many years. Thank you.

A little black dress never goes out of style, but I must confess that The Black Dress Traveler no longer feels like the most accurate representation of what I do. I wrote my first wine story in 2010 and once that passion was ignited, there was no turning back. From regions to reviews, winemakers to wine tourism, sharing the beauty and excitement of wine with others is what brings me joy.

I am excited to announce that I will be moving forward as Wine With Wanda (www.winewithwanda.com). It may not be the fanciest name but Wine With Wanda gets to the heart of who I am and what I do. The name is different, but the message remains the same: more than just a beverage, wine is an artistic and cultural treasure that has the power to bring people together. So, let’s stay connected and remember no matter where you are in the world, you can always have a virtual glass of Wine With Wanda!

Ciao, Gattinara!: There's Something Special About Travaglini

Cinzia Travaglini and her daughter Alessia Collauto Travaglini represent the 4th and 5th generations of their family's prestigious winery in the Gattinara region of Piemonte. 

Don’t let Gattinara’s tiny size fool you; its 100 hectares produce some of Italy’s most intriguing wines. And no serious conversation or tasting of Gattinara is complete without Travaglini. Not only does the Travaglini family’s 59 hectares represent more than half of Gattinara’s total size, their pioneering winemaking techniques, such as experimenting with barrique, are credited with elevating the quality and reputation of Gattinara.

Located in the northwest of Italy in Piemonte, Gattinara once spanned almost 600 acres and is actually an older winemaking region than Barolo. But phylloxera and a devasting hail storm destroyed the region and by 1905 winemaking had been abandoned. The Travaglini family has owned land in Gattinara since the beginning of the 19^th century and made small amounts of wine for local consumption but it wasn’t until 1958 that Travaglini Estate Winery was officially created.

image courtesy of Travaglini

I was recently invited to a tasting of Travaglini Gattinara with the dynamic mother and daughter team of Cinzia Travaglini and Alessia Collauto Travaglini. Their passion and poise were inspiring. I left the tasting with the feeling that the Travaglini family doesn’t just make wine, they ARE wine. Wine unites them as a family, it is their legacy and their future.  

Like Barolo, Gattinara DOCG wines are produced from 100% Nebbiolo. Travaglini’s wines have a finesse and freshness that can be attributed to the cooling winds of the nearby Alps. Of course, masterful winemaking is required to ensure that the natural beauty of these Nebbiolo grapes is not destroyed by over-manipulation. Gattinara’s judicious use of oak enhances and frames the flavors of Nebbiolo without dominating it. “Produce quality, maintain quality” is the Travaglini philosophy, said Cinzia. Cinzia’s husband, Massimo Collauto, assumed the role of chief winemaker from his father-in-law and mentor Giancarlo Travaglini and carries on this tradition. 


Another thing that you’ll notice about Travaglini is the distinctive shape of their bottle. Designed by Giancarlo Travaglini in 1958, the design cleverly catches sediment during pouring, eliminating the need for decanting. The dark color prevents light from passing through and negatively impacting the quality of the wine. Travagalini’s wines are made to age and the bottle design nurtures that process. 

Nebbiolo Coste Della Sesia DOC 2017 ($20.99), Travaglini’s entry level wine, is a fresh and fruit-forward introduction to their style. Aged in stainless steel (4 months) and Slavonian oak casks (10 months), it is crisp and easy to drink with crunchy red fruit flavors and a kiss of spice & herbs. A lighter-bodied red, you can even serve this slightly chilled.



Gattinara DOCG 2015 ($32.99)
Nebbiolo is often described as tasting of tar and roses and this wine elegantly expresses the grape’s grit and grace. Aged for 3 years in Slavonian oak casks, this full-bodied wine has a sinewy muscularity that keeps its red fruit and herbal flavors buoyant and not clunky.



Gattinara Tre Vigne DOCG 2013 ($49.99) is a blend of three single vineyard sites. The combination of Nebbiolo grapes from these unique sites creates a harmonious wine that is full and juicy with flavors of cherry, rose water, truffle, and black pepper. Aged for 4 years in Slavonian oak casks.

Gattinara Riserva DOCG 2013 ($59.99) is produced from Nebbiolo grapes from the best parcels in Travaglini’s oldest vineyards (35-60 years old). Aged for 3 years in Slavonian oak casks, its red fruit flavors are accented by hints of clove and bitter chocolate. 

Il Sogno 2014 ($127.99), which translates to “The Dream”, was inspired in name and style by Cinzia’s father, Giancarlo. A fan of Sforzato wines from Valtellina that are crafted from dried Nebbiolo grapes, Giancarlo imagined creating a similar wine in Gattinara. For Il Sogno, hand-harvested Nebbiolo grapes were air-dried for 100 days to intensify their flavors and sugars. The grapes were fermented once 50% of their water content evaporated. Aged for 40 months in Slavonian oak casks, it is rich, luscious, and sweet but good acidity and pops of spice save it from being cloying. A really beautiful vino! 


image courtesy of Travaglini

If you’re planning a trip to Piemonte, Travaglini welcomes visitors. Reservations required. 

The Sparkling Torch Passes at Champagne Boizel

Florent and Evelyne Roques-Boizel represent the 6th and 5th generations of Champagne Boizel. 

I may never again witness a passing of the torch as elegant and heartfelt as the tender moment between Evelyne Roques-Boizel and her son Florent Roques-Boizel. After more than 40 years of leading her family’s respected 185-year-old Champagne house, Evelyne has entrusted Florent with the family’s legacy and he has been appointed CEO. 


A woman of exceptional strength and character, Evelyne unexpectedly found herself leading Champagne Boizel at the age of 22 when her father and brother passed away within 2 years of each other. During that tumultuous time, Evelyne’s primary focus was keeping the family business afloat. But along the way she developed an authentic and profound passion for Champagne. Evelyne believes that “passion keeps you modest because there is always something to learn.” In my conversation with Florent, it was clear that he shares his mother’s passion for Champagne and is committed to maintaining her exacting standards. Champagne Boizel is in very good hands. 

Founded in 1834, Boizel is located in the heart of Epernay, on the iconic Avenue de Champagne. Crafting their wines with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sourced exclusively from Champagne’s most coveted Grands and Premiers Crus, Boizel uses only the first pressings of the grapes and dosage is kept to a minimum to preserve the wine’s natural expression. All of their wines are aged sur lie (on the lees) in their historic chalk cellars for a minimum of 3 years, and that aging process climbs to 15 years and beyond for the best vintages. That extended aging time noticeably adds complexity and texture to their wines. Fresh and elegant with delicate yet perky bubbles, Champagne Boizel’s wines are crisp, rich, and round; they sing with passion and precision.

Champagne Boizel Brut Réserve NV ($50) is a charming introduction to their House style. A fresh and crisp blend of Pinot Noir (55%), Chardonnay (30%) and Pinot Meunier (15%) that was aged three years sur lie in bottle, its flavors of citrus, apple, brioche, and white peach are vibrant and balanced. 

Such an elegant rosé! Champagne Boizel Rosé NV ($62) is a blend of Pinot Noir (50%), Pinot Meunier (30%) and Chardonnay (20%) that was aged for three years sur lie in bottle. The captivating color matches the energy of its crisp and vibrant raspberry, strawberry, and citrus flavors. 

Florent told me that their 100% Chardonnay Champagne Boizel Blanc de Blancs NV ($82) was the favorite of his father’s, whom they affectionately nicknamed “Mr. Chardonnay”! If you share my love of super-crisp, very mineral, and tantalizingly chalky Champagnes, this is the bubbly for you. Aged four years sur lie in bottle, layers of flavors and textures pirouette across the palate. Classic but not boring, this beauty has power and grace.

With zero dosage (no added sugar), Champagne Boizel “Ultime” Extra Brut NV ($90) is a very direct expression of terroir. Aged six years sur lie in bottle, this blend of Pinot Noir (50%), Chardonnay (37%), and Pinot Meunier (13%) displays a compelling medley of fruit, mineral, and savory flavors.

Only produced in the best years, Champagne Boizel Grand Vintage 2008 ($100) is a fine example of exceptional Champagne’s capacity for long aging. A blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir, this regal bubbly was aged 8 years sur lie in bottle. Still impressively fresh and lively, it is bold but not aggressive with a delightful interplay between citrus and nutty flavors. (2007 pictured but I tasted the 2008 vintage.)

A blend of 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay, Champagne Boizel “Joyau de France" Brut 2000 ($150) is produced only in the best years. Talk about extended aging – it spends an impressive 12 years aging sur lie in bottle. Bursting with vitality, it is crisp and mineral with tantalizing tinges of honey, almond, and marzipan.

Hope in the Ashes: A Devastating Fire Won't Stop Lismore Estate Vineyards from Making Great Wine in South Africa

Every wine has a story to tell and sometimes the truth behind the bottle will break your heart. Several weeks ago, I tasted 2017 Lismore Estate Reserve Chardonnay, Western Cape, South Africa ($40) and I haven’t stopped thinking about this exceptional wine and the intriguing woman who made it, Samantha O’Keefe. In a world where “anything but Chardonnay” has become a misguided mantra for many drinkers, Samantha has crafted an exuberant, balanced, and regal wine that will wow even the most jaded drinker. I loved the wine so much, I even sent a photo of the bottle to my boyfriend, a very talented and discerning sommelier, and told him that he must try it.

I recently learned that Samantha’s home and winery were reduced to ashes in a fire and my heart broke for her and her family. Although, we only chatted for a few minutes, Samantha made a lasting impression. Not only is she a talented winemaker, she has chutzpah. Many people dream about moving to a faraway land to make wine but Samantha, a Californian, actually did it. Her website states that in South Africa, Samantha found “paradise and the perfect terroir.”

The fire may have damaged paradise but not Samantha’s passion and tenacity. Via Facebook she shared a message that further increased my admiration: “We have experienced a tragedy like nothing we could have ever imagined. Thank you for the outpouring of love and support from the South African wine industry and everyone around the globe. Our hearts are broken, our home and my precious cellar is reduced to ashes but it seems some of our vines are as tough as we are and may survive it all. All of our bottled stock was stored off-site in Stellenbosch. I can assure everyone that Lismore wines remain available to the market. With the generous offers of cellar space, I will produce a 2020 vintage and will rebuild.”


So, if you see a bottle of Lismore at your local wine retailer or on a wine list, please show your support. And, I must thank Anthony Mueller, sommelier and Robert Parker Wine Advocate reviewer, for introducing me to Lismore and Samantha at their recent Wine Discoveries event in New York City. Not only did Anthony award the 2017 Lismore Estate Reserve Chardonnay 94 points, he selected to highlight it as his discovery of the year. Trust me, that’s a big deal.


I’ll defer to Anthony’s spot-on tasting notes: “On the nose, the 2017 Estate Reserve Chardonnay has elegant, luscious red apples, lemon, and pear tart and seductive floral notes of cherry blossom. It has excellent mouthfeel with perfect mid-palate weight and balance and elegant Chardonnay expression.”

I love the balanced richness of this Chardonnay. Elegant and joyous, its tapestry of flavors make a bold impact without being overbearing. Try it. It’s marvelous. And you’ll be doing your part to help Samantha write the next chapter of her winemaking story.

Wine Wisdom: Tough Vintages Don’t Scare St. Francis Winemaker Katie Madigan

“It’s not about having an amazing vintage but making amazing wine despite the vintage.”
Katie Madigan 

Watching winemaker Katie Madigan swirl her gleaming glass of 2017 St. Francis Chardonnay in a dark Manhattan steakhouse, it's hard to imagine the obstacles that were overcome to produce that joyous glass of wine.


Even before the fires that swept through Sonoma in 2017, Katie recalls that it was shaping up to be an extremely difficult harvest because of heat spikes late in the season that revved up ripening. Although, all of the Chardonnay grapes were picked prior to the fires, St. Francis did lose power. Sneaking into the winery, Katie and her team discovered that the grapes had started fermenting because of the loss of temperature control in the tanks. “I feel like this wine kind of made itself,” laughed Katie. 

Not easily discouraged by circumstances beyond her control, Katie said, “I respect difficult vintages. They teach you a lot. They teach you what you can handle.” Katie's career has made it clear that she doesn't shy away from a challenge. She joined St. Francis in 2002 as an intern and became a winemaker in 2011. She inherited her love of Chardonnay from her mom, who likes to sip it while she's cooking!

Katie believes that Chardonnay should be fresh and the 2017 meets that ideal. With crisp citrus and apple flavors with a touch of butterscotch and cream, it has great brightness and minerality. She was so impressed by the quality of the 2017 Chardonnay, Katie is figuring out ways to mimic the conditions that nurtured its creation – minus the fires, of course. Very food-friendly, this Chardonnay pairs beautifully with sea food and poultry. A great buy at around $17! 


St. Francis is also known for their portfolio of red wines. I’m particularly fond of their Zinfandel, which accounts for 1/3 of their production. The Zins may not have the dramatic backstory of the 2017 Chardonnay but these powerful reds certainly tell a story. 

St. Francis Old Vines Zinfandel 2016, Sonoma County ($22)
Crafted from vines at least 50 years old, and many as old as 100, Katie said this wine is meant to allure you with the aromas and not too much oak. Big and juicy, it has luscious flavors of ripe black cherries with a kiss of spice. Pair with burgers, pizza, and BBQ.

St. Francis Reserve Zinfandel 2016, Dry Creek Valley ($45)
Bigger and more robust, Katie said this Zinfandel was meant to be more over the top. A bit of Petite Sirah was added to contribute color and texture. Powerful but balanced, it is meaty and rich with flavors of blackberries, raspberry, and perky pops of peppercorn. A great steakhouse wine! 

If you're planning a trip to Sonoma, St. Francis welcomes visitors for a variety of wine tasting experiences.