Wine With Wanda

Seduced by Somontano: My Unforgettable Wine Adventure in Spain

Even before I ever set foot in Spain, it was a part of my life. Growing up in multilingual New York City, the sound of Spanish was music to my ears and I would pretend to speak it. The large oil portrait of a handsome matador that hung in my grandmother's foyer fueled many pre-teen daydreams of meeting someone as guapo and dashing. So perhaps it isn't too surprising that I seized the opportunity to study in Barcelona for a year when I was 16. Emboldened by that experience, I found myself back in Spain at the age of 21, as a student in Toledo, where I supplemented my studies of literature and the arts with learning to party until the crack of dawn and still make it to class on time, fueled by churros & chocolate and the endless energy of youth. 

Given my lifelong love affair with the country of Picasso and Antonio Banderas, it may surprise you to hear that I had some trepidation when I recently received an invitation to visit Spain. More than 20 years had passed since I had last set foot in Spain. I was afraid that perhaps my memories had become idealized by the passage of time, I did not want anything to sully my precious recollections. But the allure of Somontano proved irresistible, and I found myself back in Spain after more than 2 decades, in a region that was completely unfamiliar to me. 


Somontano means "beneath the mountain" and the region is south of the Pyrenees on the natural border with France, in northeastern Spain in the province of Huesca in Aragón. A small region with a rich winemaking history, Somontano stands out not only for the quality of the wines and accessible prices but also for the amazing diversity. Not only will you find superb examples of well-known Spanish varieties like Tempranillo and Garnacha, but Somontano has gained a reputation for their finesse with international varieties such as Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Merlot. The dry climate, cold winters and hot summers, and diversity of soil types make Somontano an ideal location for the cultivation of many grape varieties. 

Somontano has been producing wine for centuries, but was declared a D.O. (Denominación de Origen/Denomination of Origen) in 1984. At this time, there are about 69 DO's in Spain and when you see DO on the label it indicates that the producers in the region abide by criteria established by the regulating council to ensure that the wines meet quality standards. During my visit to Somontano, I spent a significant amount of time with the DO administration and was impressed by their commitment and passion for their region's wines. There are about 32 wineries in the Somontano DO, 412 grape growers, and the region produces around 14 million bottles per year. Below are brief profiles of five Somontano wineries that I visited, each representing a different aspect of this wonderful region. (Prices are indicated for wines available in the United States, you'll have to book a ticket to Somontano to try the others!)

Winemaker José Ferrer of Viñas del Vero and Blecua. 

Somontano is Exceptional: Viñas del Vero and Blecua
If ever there was a winemaker whose wines mirror his personality, it is José Ferrer. Elegant and not flashy, precise but passionate, José crafts exceptional wines for the Gonzalez Byass owned Viñas del Vero and their high-end line of boutique wines, Blecua. Focused on crafting wines that express the terroir, their nuanced white La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha Blanca 2015 ($15) and the luscious & layered red La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha 2014 are great introductions to the wines of Somontano and José's talent.

Blecua 2009 is an artful blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Tempranillo, and Garnacha. A wine of great power and grace with superbly integrated fruit, oak, and spice flavors. 

But for a truly exceptional wine-drinking experience, Blecua is the vino that most poetically expresses the terroir and quality of Somontano. First produced in 1997 and only in the best vintages, José said "with Blecua the aim is to put the best of the region in the bottle." He has absolutely succeeded in this quest. 

Like an artist working with a palette, José approaches Blecua creatively and the red blend changes with each vintage. Blecua involves a triple selection process of choosing the best vineyard sites, best grape bunches, and the best barrels. Barrel selection is an integral part of the Blecua process and José experiments with aging the grapes in French and American oak with varying levels of char before making the final selection. The end result is a sophisticated wine with tremendous approachability and aging ability. Blecua wines are not yet available in the US but these superb vinos are worth a visit to Somontano! 

The Lalanne family has been producing wine in Somontano since 1894, making them the oldest winery in the region. 

Somontano is Traditional: Bodegas Lalanne
Tracing their winemaking heritage back to 1842 in Bordeaux, the Lalanne family's ancestors came to Somontano to escape the Phylloxera epidemic that had ravaged the vines in France. Truly a family business, Bodegas Lalanne has been managed by the family for six generations. Family patriarch, Fernando Lalanne, serves as vice president of the Somontano DO. His daughters have leadership roles in the winery and oversee winemaking, marketing, and other crucial functions. A visit to Lalanne is really a journey through the winemaking history of Somontano and their cellars include an amazing selection of old vintages and Spanish Civil War artifacts. 



Reflective of their Gallic roots, Lalanne's portfolio includes Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Chardonnay. And like their peers in Somontano, they also produce other international varieties like Gewürztraminer. Lalanne produces wines in a very classic style that conveys their heritage and terroir. Recommended wine: Lalanne Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot Reserva.  


Enate winemaker Jesús Artajona

Somontano is Elegant: Enate
Founded in 1992, Enate is a stunning modern estate that elegantly melds artistry with functionality. Even the Enate bottles are portable art pieces and are adorned with labels designed by well-known contemporary artists. But as a winery, the content of the bottles is what matters most and winemaker Jesús Artajona brings artistry and technical prowess to Enate. An environmentally-friendly winery, Enate grows Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Gewürztraminer.  

 Each Enate wine conveys a different aspect of Somontano winemaking but are linked by the purity of fruit, precise winemaking, and expressiveness of the terroir. To get started, I recommend their Chardonnay 234 2016 ($20) and Merlot-Merlot 2011(not a typo, it is such a quintessential and intense Merlot, they named it twice!)  

Somontano is Innovative: Bodega Sommos
Looming over the landscape like a gleaming intergalactic space station, the shiny interlaced steel and glass cubes that form the exterior of Bodega Sommos make it clear that something very different is happening at this expansive Somontano estate. A huge undertaking financially and logistically, construction of Sommos began in 2000 and was completed in 2008. The audacity and complexity of the endeavor has not gone unnoticed and The Drinks Business declared Sommos one of "The Top 10 Architectural Wonders of the Wine World." The striking exterior only hints at what lies beneath - the winemaking facilities at Sommos extend 27 meters underground (almost 90 feet). Innovation is the driving force at Sommos and the grapes, must, and wine are transported via gravity to limit damage and stress, pheremones are used in lieu of pesticides to control pests, harvests happen at night to avoid the heat, and their experimental vineyard has more than 70 different grape varieties. 

From playful & fresh to complex and aged, the Sommos portfolio is quite diverse. Recommended wines: Sommos Premium 2009 ($40), a big red blend of Tempranillo, Merlot, and Syrah and their refreshing Gewürztraminer 2016. 

 
Jesús Mur, Bodega Laus Winemaker

Somontano is Playful: Bodega Laus

Just across the road from Sommos, Bodega Laus is wooing a younger generation of wine lovers with their easy-drinking yet well-crafted wines. The clean lines of their estate's Zen-inspired architecture were designed to coexist with nature and optimize efficiency. Although their small portfolio of wines is being marketed towards younger consumers and not yet available in the US, the Laus wines offer a pure expression of the grapes that will appeal to all wine lovers. Winemaker Jesús Mur was born and raised in Somontano and grew up among vines, accompanying his wine-grower father on walks in the vineyards. These wines show his strong connection to the land. Recommended wines: Laus Rosado (Syrah & Garnacha) and Laus Tinto Crianza (Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon)

Visiting Somontano
If you love great wine & food, stunning natural landscapes, and an authentic Spanish experience; I highly recommend a visit to Somontano. The region is just a couple of hours by car from Zaragoza and Barcelona. Barbastro, the capital city of the Somontano region, is a bustling city with charming shops, bars, and restaurants. I recommend accommodations at the centrally-located and comfortably-appointed Hotel San Ramón. Barbastro is also the headquarters of the Somontano DO and they have recently opened a restaurant, tasting room, and wine shop - sip some wine and get some information about the Somontano Wine Route and The Wine Bus. The first weekend of August is the Somontano Wine Festival, a multi-day celebration of wine, food, and culture - a perfect opportunity to sip the wines that are not yet available in the United States.

And you can't visit Somontano without taking an excursion to Alquézar, a medieval village overlooking the Vero River, it is a stunning trip back in time.   



My visit to Somontano reminded me of why I fell in love with Spain all those years ago. Wine isn't just an industry in Somontano, it is a way of life that fosters a sense of community. Wine is to be shared with family and friends, it reaffirms bonds and creates an instant connection. I thank everyone in Somontano for sharing their wines, food, stories, smiles, and hugs. Words in Spanish that had been long buried in my brain, bubbled to the surface as I found myself completely immersed in the Somontano experience. I had never been to Somontano before but it felt like I had come back home.

 

Superb Sauvignon Blanc and So Much More: Villa Maria Wines from New Zealand

With the unwavering popularity of Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, it is easy to forget that this island nation in the south-west Pacific Ocean produces an array of beautiful wines. For a great exploration of the quality and diversity of New Zealand wines, Villa Maria is an ideal starting point. New Zealand's most awarded winery, Villa Maria was founded in 1961 in Auckland by George Fistonich when he was only 21years old. For many years, George managed Villa Maria as a one-man show, with support from his wife Gail, but today the company has grown extensively with vineyards throughout New Zealand and a large team of employees. A true trailblazer and icon of the New Zealand wine industry, Villa Maria's wines are available in more than 50 countries. 

Live from New Zealand with Villa Maria winemaker Helen Morrison! I explored these wonderful wines in a virtual tasting hosted by Mark Angelillo, co-founder and chief taster of Snooth.  

I recently participated in a virtual tasting of Villa Maria wines that was hosted by Snooth, an influential online community for winelovers. Winemaker Helen Morrison and Snooth's co-founder & chief taster Mark Angelillo guided us through six wines from the Villa Maria portfolio. Opening the bottles was a breeze because in 2001Villa Maria became a cork-free zone and moved completely to screwcaps. It was a bold move that has been emulated by winemakers in New Zealand and beyond, and proves that a screwcap does not mean that the wine inside the bottle is inferior. Also, screwcaps eliminate the heartbreak one feels when opening a bottle that turns out to be flawed because of a tainted cork. From a playful sparkling Sauvignon Blanc to a sophisticated Pinot Noir, I was impressed by the range and quality of the Villa Maria wines we sipped during the virtual tasting. 



Villa Maria Bubbly Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ($15)
Delicate bubbles and flavors of zesty lime and juicy melon make this fizzy Sauvignon Blanc a unique and delicious thirst-quencher. 

    Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ($13)
Sourced from vineyards across Marlborough, this zingy but not overly grassy Sauvignon Blanc has great balance and juicy citrus flavors with a touch of fresh herbs.               

Villa Maria Private Bin Rosé 2016 ($14)  
Rosé all day, the Villa Maria way! Mostly merlot, this luscious sip is brimming with flavors of ripe wild strawberries and a kiss of spice. 


Villa Maria Taylors Pass Chardonnay 2015 ($45)
A single vineyard Chardonnay with impressive finesse and flavor. A touch of oak adds depth without overwhelming the richness of the fruit. An impressive balance of citrus, minerality, and lightly toasted brioche.  

Villa Maria Cellar Selection Pinot Noir 2014 ($26)
Graceful yet not shy, this is no one-note pinot noir. Layers of red fruit, spice, and earthy flavors evolve beautifully in the glass and lure you back for the next sip. 
 

Villa Maria Cellar Selection Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ($20)
Robust and rich but not jammy, this big red was crafted with a delicate touch. 

Villa Maria vineyards in Marlborough. They also have vineyards in Hawkes Bay, Auckland, and Gisborne.
image courtesy of Villa Maria 

These six wines represent only a small portion of the Villa Maria portfolio but clearly convey the diversity of their wines, commitment to quality, and ability to express a sense of New Zealand in each sip. I wouldn't hesitate to share any of these bottles with friends and other wine lovers. To learn more, visit the Villa Maria website. Cheers! 




  

 

 

Wanda's Wine of the Week: Oremus Tokaji Dry "Mandolás" Furmint 2015

Each week I taste quite an array of standout wines, so picking just one to showcase is no easy feat. Quality is always of utmost consideration but I'm also drawn to wines that surprise me in the very best ways. New varietals, small producers, and lesser known-regions are always intriguing. But I also appreciate beautifully crafted classics and well-made wines that offer great value. The choices for Wanda's Wine of the Week will be hard to predict but that's part of the fun. Cheers! 

 Oremus Tokaji Dry "Mandolás" Furmint 2015 (around $24)
Hungary

 Hungary's most famous grape, Furmint is celebrated as the star of the legendary sweet wine that made Louis XIV proclaim Tokaji "the wine of the king and the king of wines!" These sweet wines remain highly coveted but more Hungarian producers are also crafting superb dry wines from Furmint. Mandolás is a superb expression of a dry Tokaji that balances bright & refreshing acidity with harmonious layers of citrus zest, chamomile, straw, and honey flavors. A supple richness and a subtle hint of spice make Mandolás a great match with everything from Asian to Mediterranean cuisine. Mandolás is no boring white wine! 

image courtesy of Oremus

A wine that exudes joy and vitality, Mandolás has quite a pedigree - it is produced by the iconic Spanish wine producer, Vega Sicilia. In 1993, just a few years after the fall of Communism in Hungary, Vega Sicilia acquired 285 acres of premier vineyards in the heart of the Tokaj region. The Oremus estate also includes several miles and five levels of underground cellars dating back to the 12th century. Hand hewn into volcanic rock, these historic cellars are still used today for aging Oremus wines.

 

A Celebration of Wine & Culture in Naples: Vitigno Italia 2017

When wine calls, I follow. Intrigued by descriptions of stellar wines and stunning scenery, I gladly let vino lead me to Naples for the 13th annual Vitigno Italia festival. More than just a showcase for wine, Vitigno Italia was a vivacious celebration of the unique culture of the south of Italy. An ancient city with a modern edge, Naples is the capital of the Campania region and Italy's third largest city.


From the volcanic peaks of Mt. Vesuvio to the blue Mediterranean waters that caress its coast, from the bustling crowds strolling & shopping along the elegant & energetic Via Toledo to the quiet piazzas where locals meet for an aperitivo, Naples is a city of charming contrasts. A bilingual city where its own melodic Neapolitan language co-exists with Italian, Naples is nature and modernity, chaos and calm; and Vitigno Italia captured all of these qualities.

image courtesy of WikiWand

When was the last time you attended a wine tasting in a Medieval castle? Naples' oldest standing fortification, the majestic seaside Castel dell'Ovo was the spectacular venue for Vitigno Italia. For three days (May 21-23), thousands of attendees strolled the Castle to taste a variety of wines from the south of Italy and other regions. Vitigno Italia also showcased a selection of Italian cheeses, cured meats, and other delicacies. A festival without attitude, Vitigno Italia had a welcoming and energetic vibe that attracted multi-generations, couples, singles, many local residents, and tourists.  

Daniele Cernilli (Doctor Wine), Wanda, and Chicco de Pasquale (Founder of Vitigno Italia)

Yes, Vitigno Italia is a great party but it is also very serious about the business of wine. The festival's Napoli Wine Challenge, led by a judging panel that included prestigious Italian wine writers Daniele Cernilli (Doctor Wine), Chiara Giorleo, and Luciano Pignataro, used a blind tasting format for the final selection of five wines that were honored as the best in their category. (I was honored to be a member of this esteemed judging panel. Visit Chiara's website for the list of winners.) At Vitigno Italia, wine producers also had the important opportunity to meet with an international delegation of buyers from Asia, the Middle East, and other European nations, who would consider exporting their wines abroad. 

Founder and president of Vitigno Italia, Chicco de Pasquale. His passion and vision have made Vitigno Italia the premier wine festival in southern Italy. 

Stefano Carbone (press official for Vitigno Italia) and a delighted festival attendee enjoy a glass of wine poured by the one-and-only Alessandro Scorsone - the official sommelier of Italian Parliament. (Yes, the Italian government has a sommelier. Can we please do this in the United States?) 


Massimo Setaro of Casa Vinicola Setaro and his prize-winning Caprettone Spumante Metodo Clasico from Vesuvio. This unique and elegant sparkling wine, produced from the indigenous Caprettone grape, won the sparkling wine category at Vitigno Italia's Napoli Wine Challenge. 

 

I was first introduced to Ilaria Pettito of Donnachiara when she was in New York City last year promoting her family's superb wines. It was a wonderful surprise to see Ilaria, and her partner in life & business, Francesco De Rienzo at Vitigno Italia. Their participation showed that Vitigno Italia is indeed considered a very important event for the region's winemakers. Donnachiara produces some of the most acclaimed wines in the Campania region. Their vineyards in Montefalcione, an ancient village in the Avellino province, have been in Ilaria's family for 150 years. Their wine portfolio includes elegant expressions of Fiano de Avellino, Greco di Tufo, and Taurasi. 

The legendary volcano Vesuvio (Vesuvius) is perhaps Naples' most famous resident and this force of nature also lends its name to the Vesuvio DOC. Ciro Giordano of Cantine Olivella is also president of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Vesuvio. The wines of the Vesuvio DOC were well-represented at Vitigno Italia. One of the unique wines that I tasted at Vitigno Italia was Cantina Olivella's "Katá" - a white wine made from the Catalanesca grape. Catalanesca has its roots in Spain and was brought to the Napoli region in the 15th century. 

Winemaker Maurizio Russo of Cantina del Vesuvio proudly shows the mineral-rich black soil of his vineyard on the slopes of Vesuvio - one of the benefits of being so close to a volcano. Wines from Vesuvio have a defined mineral character that add elegant and earthy textures and flavors. The Cantina del Vesuvio portfolio includes Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio which is produced from the indigenous grapes Caprettone (white) and Piedirosso (red). 



While in Naples, I took a short excursion to Pompei to explore the legendary ancient city that was destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvio in 79 AD. In addition to the Roman ruins of the homes, market, and spa; there are several small vineyards on the property that recreate the viticulture of that time. This exciting project is managed by Mastroberardino winery and winemaker Antonio Capone was my gracious tour guide for the day. Antonio eloquently described Vesuvio as a "devil and an angel" - capable of great destruction but also enriching the soil to grow rich grapes that beautifully express the terroir. Mastroberardino produces a limited number of bottles of these very special wines from Pompei. 

Thank you to everyone at Vitigno Italia, the Consorzio Tutela Vini Vesuvio, the Italian Trade Commission, and all of the welcoming Neapolitans who made my first visit to the south of Italy so memorable. If you've been thinking of visiting Naples, I highly recommend going to Vitigno Italia 2018. Let wine lead you to Naples and so much more will be revealed. Cheers! 

Let Your Babies Grow Up to be Winemakers: Wine is a Family Affair at Fullerton

  Two generations bound by love of family and wine - Alex and Eric Fullerton of Fullerton Wines.

Don't be alarmed if you encounter a pre-schooler swirling his sippy cup like it's a fine pinot noir - you may be in the presence of a future winemaker. Alex Fullerton's teachers may have been startled by his precocious milk swirling, but his wine-loving  parents knew that he was simply emulating their actions. Today, a grown-up Alex is the winemaker for his family's boutique winery, Fullerton Wines, in Oregon's Willamette Valley.

Founded in 2012, Fullerton Wines is truly a family affair that celebrates the beauty of wine and honors their northern European heritage. Eric, the patriarch of the family is of Danish descent and Susanne, the matriarch, is from Sweden. The family's journeys through Old World wine regions such as Bordeaux, Champagne, and Burgundy had a profound impact on Alex and he officially started his career in winemaking as a cellar hand in Oregon for Penner-Ash Wine Cellars and Bergström Wines. Currently finishing his viticulture and enology degree at Oregon State University, Alex is also getting plenty of hands-on experience in the family business. "Chardonnay is my love. Pinot is my other love," said Eric, and the Fullerton portfolio beautifully showcases these varietals.   

I recently had the pleasure of tasting several wines in the Fullerton Wines portfolio with Eric and Alex over a dinner of modern Scandinavian cuisine at Aska restaurant (two Michelin stars) in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. But you don't have to indulge in haute cuisine to enjoy Fullerton Wines - their unpretentious elegance pairs just as beautifully with home cooked meals.  


Three Otters Chardonnay 2014 ($20)
Drawing inspiration from the three otters that have rested prominently on the Fullerton family crest since the 13th century (and as a tattoo on winemaker Alex's upper-arm), Fullerton's Three Otters wines are fun and fruit-forward. Produced with grapes from Northern Willamette Valley, this vibrant and crisp Chardonnay dances across the palate with fresh flavors of green apple, citrus, and a hint of herbs.  

Five FACES Pinot Noir 2013 ($33)
Displaying impressive finesse and texture, this elegant Pinot Noir balances flavors of fresh cherry and strawberry with a thread of earthiness that adds depth. Vibrant acidity and soft tannins add additional complexity to this superb sip. FACES is an acronym for the five Fullerton family members (Filip, Alex, Caroline, Eric, and Susanne). 

Croft Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014 ($45)
Taking their love of Pinot Noir to the next level, Fullerton also produces several single-vineyard selections. My favorite of the evening was this silky, intense, juicy, and peppery sip from the Croft Vineyard. A beautifully balanced and supple wine with an approachable complexity, Croft is rich and refreshing with layers of flavor and lively acidity. 

Momtazi Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014 ($60)
Momtazi is no meek little Pinot Noir. Like an opera diva, Momtazi boldly hits all the notes and is impossible to ignore. It is often said that Pinot Noir is unsurpassed in its ability to express terroir and the Momtazi Vineyard has imprinted its essence on these grapes and imbued them with astounding complexity. Rich flavors of Persian spices, black truffle, licorice, and green olive interact beautifully with this Pinot Noir's intense red berry and currant flavors.


 Meet the Fullerton family - Filip, Susanne, Eric, Alex, and Caroline. 
image courtesy of Fullerton Wines

Not even 30-years-old, Alex Fullerton brings impressive maturity and passion to his winemaking. Alex's talent combined with the experience and support of his family are a powerful combination. I look forward to following the Fullerton family's wine adventures for many years to come! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Judge Wines, Not People: Life & Vine Lessons from Bertani Amarone Academy

Hands on winemaking! Bertani winemaker Andrea Lonardi puts the squeeze on fermenting Amarone grapes. 

Even the most committed teetotaler would find resistance futile after hearing winemaker Andrea Lonardi, of Italy's iconic Bertani winery, wax poetic about grapes and terroir. Andrea doesn't just make wine, he lives it. From the vineyard to the cellar to the bottle, Andrea obsesses over every detail to ensure that each sip of Bertani is an authentic expression of place and time. I recently had the opportunity to experience a bit of this endearing intensity at the invitation-only Bertani Amarone Academy. With Andrea as our guru, an eclectic & enthusiastic group of writers, sommeliers, and influencers gathered in Verona to explore the nuances of wine and learn some important life lessons. 

Lesson 1: Know Your History, Be Open to Change


Brothers and prosperous wine merchants Giovan Battista and Gaetano Bertani founded their namesake winery in 1857, north of Verona in Quinto di Valpantena. From the very beginning, the Bertani brothers believed that quality winemaking was the key to the future and their intuition was prescient. In addition to Valpantena, Bertani also owns vineyards in Soave and Lake Garda. The Bertani portfolio includes a full spectrum of classic wines from the Veneto but they are perhaps most celebrated as the standard bearer of traditional Amarone. 

Bertani introduced longer aging techniques to transform the traditionally sweet or sparkling red Recioto della Valpolicella into the opulent and complex dry red wine that we know as Amarone. The first vintage of Bertani Amarone was released in 1958.   

image courtesy of Bertani

Amarone is made using the appassimento method of intensifying the flavors of the grapes by drying them for several months before fermentation. Many other Amarone producers use modern interventions to speed along appassimento but Bertani still naturally and slowly air-drys their Corvina Veronese and Rondinella grapes on bamboo cane mats. Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG is aged for six years in Slavonian oak casks, plus one year in the bottle before it is released.

The meticulous and patient nature of Bertani's winemaking process imbues their Amarone with the structure and integrity needed to age beautifully. The grapes are treated with respect throughout the winemaking journey and we are rewarded with superb wine that stands the test of time. I tasted a 1967 Bertani Amarone that was exquisite and all signs indicate that recent vintages will also evolve gracefully for decades to come. 

Bertani is rightfully proud of their legacy but they aren't complacent. "Is your wine good today? Is it recognized today, is what matters. You can't rest on history. We are old but open to new things," said Andrea. Those new things include eliminating pesticides, investing the time and resources into truly understanding their terroir, and adopting more intuitive and effective pruning methods. 

Lesson 2: Close Your Eyes to Really See


I never knew that I could feel such emotion towards a grapevine. Yes, intellectually I always understood the importance of the vine -- without it, there's no wine. Yes, I knew pruning techniques impact a vine's ability to produce the best grapes but I must confess that aspect of winemaking never excited me very much. Well, that indifference disappeared on a hilltop in Valpolicella. Each participant in the Bertani Amarone Academy was asked (required) to demonstrate that we had paid attention to Andrea Lonardi's detailed pruning seminar by actually pruning a vine. Me? A native Manhattanite with countless dead houseplants in my past was being allowed to prune a living, breathing vine?

I approached the vine with trepidation and actually introduced myself. With Andrea's voice echoing in my head, I then closed my eyes as he had instructed. Eyes tightly shut, I placed my gloved hands on the trunk of the vine and began to explore, to "see" each part by feeling. Since harvest had already passed, the naked vine had seemed vulnerable when I laid eyes on it but I could feel its strength and energy. There was a moment of revelation when my hands landed on the areas that needed to be clipped by the pruning shears. I opened my eyes and began to cut. Since returning home, I've included that vine in my prayers, hoping that it continues its legacy of producing wonderful grapes. I look forward to tasting the 2017 vintage!

Lesson 3: Judge Wines, Not People
 

Amarone, like Barolo and Brunello, has become synonymous with luxury. But just because a wine is technically Amarone does not guarantee an authentic expression of the wine. Modern Amarone often has very high levels of alcohol & residual sugar and can taste like a liquified holiday fruit cake. Is this authentic or just some winemakers responding to a globalization in taste? What makes one Amarone more authentic than another? Whenever we decide that we do or don't like a wine, we're passing a judgement but what criteria are we using to reach that decision? "Judge wines, not people," said Andrea. And to judge wines, you have to understand the terroir and evaluate the wine on how it reflects terroir. For Andrea, "Better wines means better wines from the terroir. Judge the terroir!" Bertani grows their grapes in the soil types and vineyard locations that best nurture their finest and most authentic expression. It is truly terroir-driven winemaking.  

Lesson 4: If You Know the Truth, You Can't Be Deceived

If you know what to look for, your wine can't lie to you. Close your eyes and take a sip. Is the taste of the wine an authentic reflection of the region, grapes, and terroir? For Bertani, this commitment to authenticity is a link that unites all of their wines. Starting with their Valpolicella and moving in complexity towards Ripasso and Amarone; I discovered that even in a blind tasting the Bertani style is readily identified across all categories. 


Bertani Valpolicella DOC 2016 ($14.99)
A lovely shade of deep ruby red, this blend of mostly Corvina Veronese with a touch of Rondinella has a Pinot Noir-ish elegance and suppleness. Silky tannins and fresh flavors of cherry, raspberry, plum, and a hint of spicy clove give this fresh red plenty of personality and nuance. A great introduction to the Bertani style!


Bertani Valpolicella Ripasso 2014 DOC ($25.99)
A blend of mostly Corvina Veronese with touches of Merlot and Rondinella, Ripasso (which means "passing again") experiences a second fermentation with the grape skins of Recioto Amarone. A bridge that connects lighter-bodied Valpolicella with opulent Amarone, Bertani Ripasso is full and round but maintains vibrancy and grace. Flavors of black cherry, blackberry, and black plum are elegantly energized by a touch of licorice.


     A terrific trio: winemaker Andrea Lonardi, Bertani president Emilio Pedron, and a bottle of their Amarone della Valpolicella Classico.

Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2008 DOCG ($130)
One of the most revelatory things about Bertani Amarone is its clear connection to their Valpolicella and Ripasso. Bertani Amarone does not exist in a vacuum, devoid of any resemblance to its lighter-bodied brethren. A blend of Corvina Veronese and  Rondinella, Bertani Amarone is rich & voluptuous, energetic & lithe, complex & approachable. Although it is an intense wine, the vibrancy of the fruit remains intact and harmonizes beautifully with touches of vanilla, spice, and hazelnuts. A wine for the ages.

Lesson Five: Always Express Gratitude 

A most sincere thank you to everyone at Bertani and Palm Bay International (their importer in the United States) for such a beautiful experience and education. Bertani Amarone Academy embodied everything that I love about wine: learning and stepping out of my comfort zone, spending time with people that share my passion, and better understanding a culture through wine. Grazie! 

A very heartfelt thank you to SNODAR (Sovrano e Nobilissimo Ordine dell’Amarone e del Recioto) for welcoming me into their ancient order (founded in 1320) as a Cavalieri. I promise to share the beauty and legacy of Amarone and Recioto wherever I go! 

 

A Wine Worth Waiting For: Beaulieu Vineyard Rarity 2013

Mother Nature is a winemaker's most influential collaborator. A forceful and fickle colleague, year after year her tempestuous changes in mood challenge even the most talented vintners. It is a relationship that requires tremendous patience but all of the angst is worth it when Mother Nature rewards a winemaker's tenacity with an extraordinary vintage. Winemaker Jeffrey Stambor of Beaulieu Vineyard in Napa Valley waited more than two decades for the perfect moment to craft their iconic wine Rarity.

Jeffrey Stambor, Winemaker, Beaulieu Vineyard

The newly released Rarity 2013 represents just the fifth-ever vintage bottling of the Rarities Collection and the first release since 1990. First bottled in 1968 by legendary winemaker André Tchelistcheff (aka "The Maestro"), Rarity is only bottled in remarkable vintage years. A protégé of Tchelistcheff, Stambor joined Beaulieu in 1989 and became director of winemaking in 2009 -- only the fourth person to hold this prestigious position since its founding in 1900. 


Beaulieu Vineyard holds a storied position in the history of Napa Valley. In 1900, when Georges de Latour's wife, Fernande, first laid eyes on the land that would become their original Rutherford vineyard, she named it "beau lieu," or "beautiful place." De Latour founded Beaulieu Vineyard with the vision of making Napa Valley wines that would rival those of his native France. That connection to France remains intact-- Stambor collaborated with legendary winemaking consultant Michel Rolland to perfect the blend for Rarity 2013. Rolland has also consulted on the blending of Georges de LaTour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon since 2007. 


Rarity 2013 clearly has a fascinating legacy but the proof is in the sip and this superb wine lives up to the hype. Cabernet Sauvignon with a kiss of Petit Verdot (10%), Rarity 2013 strikes that desirable balance between power and grace. Stambor said, "This limited release wine celebrates the rarity granted to us by Mother Nature. 2013 was a spectacular vintage, with the earliest onset to harvest that I recall in my 28 years of winemaking at Beaulieu, and gave us some truly special Cabernet Sauvignon. By bottling Rarity only in magnums, we better ensure that this magnificent wine can reach its full potential with bottle aging and can be enjoyed for decades to come." Vibrant and voluptuous, Rarity 2013 has seductive aromas and flavors of blackberry, cassis, dark chocolate, and violet with subtle touches of vanilla and spice. Stambor describes winemaking as "a blend of art and science, and I tend to rely more on the artistic." His artistry is evident in this spectacular wine. Rarity 2013 is a once-in-lifetime wine and the price of $1000 reflects that. Each magnum is individually numbered and delivered in a bespoke box. 

For a more accessible, but also superb, taste of Beaulieu Vineyard, I recommend the Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ($145). Since its inaugural vintage in 1936, it has been widely recognized as the benchmark Cabernet Sauvignon from Rutherford. A beautiful expression of the exceptional 2013 vintage, it has layers of rich, dark berry and black cherry flavors with hints of bittersweet chocolate and toasted oak spices. 


I tasted through several older Georges de Latour vintages with Stambor, including a phenomenal 1970, and was impressed by how elegantly these wines age -- maintaining vibrancy and freshness as they develop the depth of flavor that maturity brings. These wines are investments but Beaulieu wine is a powerful connection to Napa's history that provides an authentic and gratifying wine drinking experience. 


If you're planning a trip to Napa, Beaulieu Vineyard welcomes guests for tastings. 

Let the Vineyard Speak: The Wines of Quinta dos Murças Eloquently Express Portugal's Douro Valley

José Luis Moreira da Silva, Resident Winemaker, Quinta dos Murças

There's a reason why Portugal keeps popping up in conversations with fellow wine geeks - they make fabulous vino! Portugal may share the Iberian Peninsula with Spain but the country has its own rich legacy of winemaking. In fact, Portugal's famed Douro Valley is the oldest demarcated wine region in the world and is recognized as an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Celebrated for their fortified Port wine, Portugual also produces a wide variety of white and red wines from indigenous and international grapes.

I've yet to visit Portugal but I took my palate on a Portuguese wine adventure with José Luis Moreira da Silva, resident winemaker of Quinta dos Murças in the Douro Valley. Quinta dos Murças is owned by Esporão; founded in 1973, they are a leading family-owned producer of wines and olive oils in Portugal. Their flagship estate, Herdade do Esporão, is located about 100 miles southeast of Lisbon in Alentejo. 

image courtesy of Esporão

A native of Porto, José Luis joined Esporão in 2015 and as the resident winemaker at Quinta dos Murças he believes that "the vineyard should speak to you in some way." In his opinion, "less intervention leads to more balanced wines" and his philosophy is to "interfere as little as possible with the process and uncover the real identity of each vineyard to obtain the truest expression of the terroir." Quinta dos Murças provides many opportunities for authentic expression - it has 8 unique terroirs influenced by factors such as mountains, altitude, climate, and soil. 

Assobio White 2015 ($13)
Grapes for this fresh, light, and fruity blend of Viosinho, Rabigato, Verdelho, Gouveio, and Arinto are sourced from the Assobio vineyard - the highest and steepest hillside at Quinta dos Murças. Perky acidity and minerality add texture to its flavors of lime, passionfruit, and honeydew. The name Assobio refers to the whistling sound made by the wind as it travels through the hilltop vineyards. 


Esporão Reserva White 2015 ($20)
A blend of Arinto, Roupeiro, and Antão Vaz, Esporão Reserva White is from Portugal's southern Alentejo region. The terroir's combination of intense heat with cool Atlantic breezes produces grapes with robust flavors and refreshing acidity. If you're looking for a delicious alternative to Chardonnay, this exuberant white wine is a great choice. It has flavors of ripe stone fruits and orange that are balanced by a subtly creamy texture and a touch of minerality on the finish.


 Assobio Red 2015 ($13)
This robust red wine blends together three of Portugal's signature grapes -- Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, and Touriga Franca. Dry but juicy with flavors of ripe strawberries and hints of black pepper and mint. An impressive red at a great price!  


Quinta dos Murças Minas 2015 ($25)
Cool water springs near the vines for Minas help the grapes (Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Francisca, Tinta Roriz, and Tinta Cão) maintain ideal levels of acidity and freshness. This is a well-balanced vino with flavors of ripe red fruits, a touch of balsamic, and a hint of slate. Firm but luscious, it has a long and fresh finish. 


Quinta dos Murças Margem 2015 ($65)
A big and balanced blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, Margem (margin) is named for the vineyards' location on the edge of the Douro River. The vines have an average age of 33 years - making these parcels some of the oldest on the estate. Margem is a big wine that balances its power with impressive grace and freshness. Concentrated flavors of rich blackberries and black currant are imbued with a touch of levity thanks to vibrant acidity and sultry hints of spice and balsamic. Fermented with natural yeasts, Margem is a holistic expression of the terroir. 

Prior to my tasting with José Luis, I was familiar with just a few Portuguese wine grapes. I am still struggling to pronounce some of the names but the beauty of the wines does not get lost in linguistics. Concentration of fruit, balanced by freshness is the link that connects the wines in the Quinta dos Murças portfolio. If you're in a wine rut, try something new and start exploring the wines of Portugal with Esporão and Quinta dos Murças. And if your travels take you to Portugal, why not add a visit to Esporão? 

Taste the Grape: Sequoia Grove Crafts Expressive & Balanced Napa Valley Wines

Napa Valley certainly needs no introduction for wine lovers. A craze for California wines was largely fueled by Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay from Napa Valley but sometimes we forget that Napa is home to a diverse group of wineries with distinct styles. Napa has no shortage of fans, but for the detractors I advise exploring wines from different producers to find the style of Napa wine that is right for you. If you like carefully crafted and balanced wines that emphasize varietal expression, give Sequoia Grove a swirl.

"With all of our wines, we want richness and balance, from start to finish. We believe in varietal expression; we want you to taste the grape." -- Michael Trujillo, President & Director of Winemaking, Sequoia Grove Winery

Founded in 1979, Sequoia Grove is located along Napa Valley's esteemed Rutherford bench which is renowned for producing some of the finest Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines in the world. Michael Trujillo, head winemaker at Sequoia Grove, has more than 30 years of winemaking experience in Napa Valley and says "Rutherford is king of Cabernet."

Sequoia Grove Estate Vineyard
image courtesy of Sequoia Grove

Trujillo describes Sequoia Grove Winery Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ($39.99) as a "quilt work of all the vineyards we source from." Supple and silky, this full-bodied beauty has rich flavors of cherry and blackberry with a subtle pop of spice and earth. This wine beautifully shows that lushness and balance can co-exist in a California Cabernet Sauvignon. ( I sampled 2013 but the 2014 vintage has recently been released.)


Sequoia Grove Napa Valley Cambium 2011 ($124.99)
Sequoia's flagship wine, Cambium is a Bordeaux style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc that showcases the best of the vintage with some of the finest grapes found in Napa. Named for the layer of cells in trees and grapevines that allows the plant to grow and imprints the quality of each vintage on its fruit, Cambium is complex but not pretentious. Voluptuous with a finish that seductively lingers, this wine wows the palate with exuberant and nuanced flavors of blackcurrant, blackberry, plum, and cherry that are enhanced by subtle hints of cocoa, graphite, and coffee. Deliciously drinkable now with velvety tannins, Cambium has the structure to age for 10-15 years.

 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley Chardonnay 2015 ($27.99)
This vibrant sip will make you reconsider your request for "anything but Chardonnay!" Fresh and vivacious with plenty of personality, this elegant Chardonnay's citrus flavors are bolstered by touches of almond, a hint of cream, and crisp minerality.  


image courtesy of Sequoia Grove

If you would like to sip these lovely wines among Sequoia Grove's namesake majestic trees, the winery welcomes visitors for tastings. Cheers! 

 

Make Everyday a Celebration with Moët & Chandon Champagne

"Don't be too serious when drinking Champagne!"
- Benoît Gouez, Chief Winemaker, Moët & Chandon

Being the chief winemaker of one of the world's most celebrated Champagne houses is no easy task but Benoît Gouez brings tremendous talent and energy to his important role as Chef de Cave at Moët & Chandon -- a position he has held since 2005. Founded in 1743, Moët & Chandon is one of the most recognized luxury brands in the world but the company doesn't rest on their laurels. Each bottle of bubbly must consistently reflect superior quality and sophistication. 


"NV is consistency,"said Benoît. Moët & Chandon Impérial Brut NV (non vintage, $39.99) is a superb example of the house style. Created in 1869, it is the House's iconic Champagne and year after year it delights drinkers with its fine bubbles, vibrancy, and elegance. This level of consistency is challenging but Benoît meets it with aplomb. Impérial Brut is a classic blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay and tastes like the very fine grapes from which it is made. It is undeniably Moët & Chandon. In fact, Impérial is always blended from the three classic Champagne grapes because they are viewed as a legacy that reflects complete balance and harmony. Aged 24 months in the cellars, Impérial is a wine with energy and texture -- rich and crisp with lively citrus, pear, peach, and apple flavors that are bolstered by hints of brioche and minerality. Benoît encourages us to "celebrate everyday and don't just keep Champagne for rare and special occasions." Of course, Champagne pairs beautifully with luxury foods like caviar and oysters but Benoît advises not to be afraid to pair bubbly with simple foods like french fries and fried chicken. Champagne and fried salty foods are a decadently delicious combination. 


While non vintage Moët & Chandon is a consistently elegant option, a vintage  bubbly allows the winemaker to showcase the unique qualities of an exceptional year. The highly anticipated 2008 vintage is Benoît's creative interpretation of that year's harvest. Moët & Chandon 2008 Grand Vintage Brut ($64.99) skillfully balances freshness with rich complexity. A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, the 2008 vintage was aged 7 years in the cellar and has layers of flavor - citrus, brioche, white pepper, vanilla, white peach, and almonds. Lively acidity and crunchy minerality add a sinewy structure to this impressive vintage. 


One of Champagne's many charms is that it ages magnificently. And perhaps that quality transfers to the drinker - when I told Benoît that he looked quite young he laughed and replied, "I'm older than I look. Champagne preserves." I had the opportunity to taste the 1998 and 1988 vintages with Benoît and was impressed at the nuances that the Champagnes revealed over time. The vibrancy and acidity remained intact but hints of smokiness and spice had elegantly emerged. Definitely try older Moët & Chandon vintages if you see them on wine lists - you won't be disappointed. And why not buy a few bottles of the 2008 - some to enjoy now and a bottle or two to rediscover a few years from now? You can never have too much Moët & Chandon! 

Get Swept Away to Sardinia with the Wines of Sella & Mosca

  My very best daydreams often include a beautiful bottle of wine and balmy ocean breezes. Apparently, I've been dreaming of Sardinia. The second largest island in the Mediterranean, Sardinia has an ancient & rich wine culture and Sella & Mosca is the island's foremost producer.


Giovanni Pinna, Chief Winemaker, Sella & Mosca

Founded in 1899, Sella & Mosca's I Piani estate is the second largest contiguous vineyard in Italy and one of the largest wineries in Europe - it is a 1,600-acre property with more than 1,200 acres of vines. From vibrant whites to nuanced reds, Sella & Mosca has a wine for every mood and meal. Sella & Mosca is a must-sip in an exploration of Sardinian wines - their portfolio includes indigenous varietals like Torbato and international favorites like Cabernet Sauvignon.

Sella & Mosca La Cala Vermentino di Sardegna DOC 2015 ($13.99)
Sardinian sunshine in a glass, La Cala is an energetic and elegant expression of Vermentino. Crisp, fresh, and dry; its citrus and peach flavors are balanced by a hint of salinity that reflect the vineyard's proximity to the sea. An absolutely perfect match with seafood, this refreshing white wine is a delightful detour from ubiquitous Pinot Grigio. 


Sella & Mosca Terre Bianche Torbato di Alghero DOC 2014 ($20.99)
Want to sip something new? Give Torbato a swirl. Indigenous to Sardinia, this flavorful grape produces a white wine with plenty of personality. A difficult grape to grow, Torbato is delightfully easy to drink. Zippy acidity and flavors of citrus with a hint of honey and a touch of vanilla (from a few months in oak) make this wine come alive with texture and flavor. Another great match with seafood - especially crudo and ceviche. 


Sella & Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva DOC 2012 ($16.99)
An approachable red wine that packs plenty of flavor, this Cannonau lures you in with sultry aromas of wild berries and a touch of spice. Flavors of plummy fruit, earth, herbs, and spice are beautifully balanced. Pair with pasta & meat sauce or mushroom based dishes. 


Sella & Mosca Tanca Farrá Alghero DOC 2011($26.99)
Tanca Farrá displays the allure that results from combining the familiar (Cabernet Sauvignon) with the exotic (Cannonau). Tanca Farrá means "Iron Earth" in the Sardinian dialect and refers to the high iron content of the soil in this portion of the estate. That steely minerality imparts the wine with structure and complexity. Full-bodied with layers of dark fruit, graphite, and herbs; pair this beauty with hearty meats and aged cheeses. 


Sella & Mosca Marchese di Villamarina Alghero DOC 2010 ($64.99)
An elegant reminder of Cabernet Sauvignon's ability to reflect the unique qualities of the terroir where it is grown, Marchese di Villamarina displays the varietal's classic flavors along with some Sardinian finesse. Intense but not overwhelming, it balances rich flavors of blackcurrant, black cherry, with touches of vanilla and earth. A great match with steak and game. 

If you're planning a trip to Sardinia, contact Sella & Mosca to request a visit.  

 

 

 

The Elegantly Unpredictable Wines of Sartori di Verona

"There is little demand for good quality wines. Today they have to be very good indeed."
Andrea Sartori, President, Sartori di Verona

When your great-grandfather was the founder of one of Italy's most respected wineries, the pressure to sustain the family legacy can be overwhelming but Andrea Sartori approaches his destiny with admirable grace and aplomb. Founded in 1898 by Pietro Sartori, Sartori di Verona is one of the Veneto's "Big Five" wine producers and has grown tremendously under Andrea's leadership. His success has not gone unnoticed by his peers and Andrea served an unprecedented two terms as president of the Unione Italiana Vini -- Italy's principal wine producers' trade group.


After meeting with Andrea, I am convinced that his success as a wine producer is not only attributed to his business savvy and enological expertise, but also his insatiable curiosity for the world around him. A talented photographer and avid world traveler, Andrea displays a genuine reverence for tradition AND enthusiasm for innovation. Two of my favorite wines in the Sartori di Verona portfolio are modern expressions of Andrea's heartfelt connection to his elders: Ferdi and Regolo were named after his grandmother and grandfather.

Sartori di Verona Ferdi Bianco Veronese IGT ($17) 
Lovingly named after his grandmother, Andrea daringly describes Ferdi as a "white Amarone." Whoa, white Amarone? If you're a fan of regal & rich red Amarone, you know that's pretty revolutionary! Made from 100% Garganega grapes, Ferdi utilizes the Amarone technique of drying the grapes before pressing (appassimento) to reduce water content and increase the sugar and color. What surprised me most about Ferdi is that although it displayed tremendous depth and complexity, it maintained freshness and vibrancy. Dry with lively acidity that keeps it from being cloying, Ferdi's tapestry of flavors include apricot, pear, and hazelnut. Ferdi is a pretty, but far from boring white wine with enough structure to pair with grilled seafood, aged cheeses, and pasta. 



Sartori di Verona Regolo Rosso Veronese IGT ($23)
Named after Andrea's grandfather, Regolo is a friendly and flavorful wine produced from 100% Corvina - one of the key grapes in the Amarone blend. In fact, Regolo gets a complexity boost from time spent resting on Amarone pomace, which increases its aromatics and aging potential. Supple and velvety, Regolo is full-bodied but graceful with appealing cherry and red berry flavors. Pair this delightful dry wine with steak, lamb, and aged cheeses. 


Sartori di Verona Corte Brá Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC ($58)
Ferdi and Regolo beautifully showcase how Amarone inspires Sartori di Varona, so it isn't a surprise that they produce a mighty fine Amarone. The grapes for this impressive vino are sourced from their Corte Brá vineyard in the northern hills of Verona. The grapes (Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Oseleta) are air-dried for 3 to 4 months and only the best are selected for fermentation. The wine is aged in oak casks for about 4 years, followed by at least 6 months of bottle aging. The end result is a rich and voluptuous wine with robust flavors of dried fruits, plum, figs, and ripe berries with a touch of herbs and balsamic. Power and grace co-exist beautifully in this bottle. Pair with roasts, steaks, chops, and aged cheeses. 

Ready to take your palate on a sophisticated and exciting journey to Verona? Visit the Sartori di Verona website to browse their diverse & impressive portfolio of wines. 

 

A Malbec of Distinction: Get Swept Away by Trivento Eolo

"I work with a quiet passion. Winemaking is an art not limited by gender or age."
--Victoria Prandina

Winemaker Victoria "Vico" Prandina has a serene presence that sparks to life when she speaks of her wines. Truly born to spend her life among vines and cellars, Victoria said, "So much of my childhood was spent helping out in my great-grandfather’s vineyard, which my father now oversees. For as long as I can remember, there was no doubt in my mind that my future lay in winemaking.” Victoria has advanced degrees in winemaking and her passion and knowledge are abundantly clear in the superb Eolo Malbec that she produces for Trivento.  


Trivento's portfolio of wines from Mendoza is popular with fans of Argentine wines but their high-end Eolo is something quite special. A super-premium, reserve, old-vines Malbec; Eolo ($79) is not your ubiquitous tasty but not particularly memorable Malbec, but an impressive reminder that the varietal can display tremendous elegance, finesse, and complexity. Eolo was named after the Greek god of the winds (Aeolus), and the name Trivento is also a tribute to the three influential winds that sweep through Mendoza. 

The story of Eolo begins in the Luján de Cuyo zone of Mendoza with Malbec grapes from a 10-acre parcel of vines in a vineyard that was planted in 1912. This small section of vines lies on the north bank of the Mendoza River and the proximity of the river acts as a natural thermostat. Snow run-off water from the Andes Mountains is used to irrigate the Eolo vineyard via a traditional Mendocino method of surface furrows. These ancient vines have naturally low yields and the terroir also contributes to the concentrated flavor, excellent tannins, vibrant acidity, and intense color of the grapes. Put grapes of this caliber in the hands of a talented winemaker like Victoria, and you have the essence of what it takes to make a world-class Malbec like Eolo. 

I had the pleasure of tasting the 2011, 2012, and 2013 vintages of Eolo with Victoria. She describes Eolo as a "wine of precision" and it displays a quiet power and complexity that develops beautifully in the glass. Sweet tannins, energetic acidity, and a touch of spice & minerality give impressive structure to Eolo's layers of intense but supple & juicy fruit flavors: blackberry, cherry, plum, and black fig. These wines age beautifully but don't be afraid to drink the younger vintages now. Pair Eolo with a medium-rare steak or lamb chops for a fantastic match. Hearty mushroom dishes and sharp cheeses would also be a tasty pairing. Cheers! 

Count on Excellence with Erasmo Organic Wines from Chile

"Recognized for its micro climate since pre Colombian times and then colonized by the Conquistadores, the Erasmo estate is now bringing to the world award winning wines that show all the potential of the oldest, most traditional wine region of Chile."
-Count Francesco Marone Cinzano 

Renowned for crafting exquisite Brunello di Montalcino at his Col d'Orcia estate in Tuscany, Count Francesco Marone Cinzano crossed an ocean and a continent to embark on an innovative winemaking adventure in Chile. Founded in 1995, the Count's Erasmo is an organic winery and vineyard in Reserva de Caliboro, which is located in Chile's Maule Valley, about 155 miles south of Santiago in the Central Valley region. Named in tribute to a local farmer that helped Cinzano plant the vineyard and understand the uniqueness of the land, Erasmo also means pleasant in ancient Greek. 

“Erasmo unites the finest Andean mother earth with the centuries-old winemaking heritage of my Italian forebears.”
Count Francesco Marone Cinzano

Maule Valley is Chile's oldest and most traditional winemaking region and a good half of the country's wines include its grapes. Erasmo's vineyards are planted in the area of Reserva de Caliboro, a pre-Columbian human settlement that has been inhabited by Andean civilizations since ancient times. No irrigation is allowed in Caliboro and all vineyards are dry-farmed. Erasmo balances Cinzano's love of both tradition and state-of-the-art winemaking techniques. He planted Erasmo's vineyards with the highest quality French grape clones with the intent of showing that traditional Bordeaux varieties would thrive in this ancient yet New World terroir. 


I had the pleasure of sipping a few Erasmo wines over a lovely lunch with Cinzano at Ai Fiori in New York City. I firmly believe that a wine often reflects the personality of the producer, and Cinzano and his Erasmo are clearly kindred spirits: elegant, daring, vivacious, and bold. I suspect that consulting enologist Maurizio Castelli may possess similar traits. 

Erasmo Barbera Garnacha 2014 ($16.99)
(32% Barbera, 48% Garnacha, 12% Carignan, 8% Alicante)

With a twinkle in his eye, Cinzano proclaimed that "not even an Australian producer has gone so wild as to blend Garnacha and Barbera!" His wild idea has paid off beautifully - this sui generis blend is fresh and fruity with juicy flavors of cherry, blackberry, and cranberry with a subtle sweetness and herbaceous hint on the finish. Made in the old way with natural yeasts and by fermenting the grapes together ("promiscuous fermentation" is how the Count cleverly describes it), the blend is a tasty hybrid of tradition and modernity. An approachable wine but very far from ordinary, it is versatile enough to serve as an apéritif or with roast chicken or fish. It is suggested that you serve this wine slightly chilled. Erasmo is the only producer of Barbera grapes in Chile.  


Erasmo Reserva de Caliboro 2010 & 2009 ($29.99 each)
(60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot, 5% Syrah)

In 2010, a violent earthquake hit the central coast of Chile which delayed the harvest at Erasmo and resulted in riper grapes. This ripeness can be detected in the 2010 and the wine is quite juicy and round with rich tannins and a hint of minerality on the finish. The 2010 is also a real testament of triumph in trying times: the Erasmo team had to work in isolated and complicated conditions after the earthquake to produce this vintage.  
I found the 2009 vintage of Erasmo Reserva de Caliboro quite exceptional, with darker and rounder berry flavors and harmoniously integrated hints of spice and velvety tannins. Both vintages pair well with beef, lamb, and wild boar. 
 

Erasmo Late Harvest Torontel 2010 ($43.99)
I often prefer to end a meal with a glass of sweet wine instead of a sugary dessert. The best sweet wines balance sugar with savory flavors and acidity. Erasmo Late Harvest Torontel is produced from a 60-year-old-vineyard and has lovely flavors of apricot, golden raisins, and hazelnuts. It also has a lively acidity that prevents it from being cloying. Cinzano describes this elegant wine as "nectar of the gods." Pair with a sharp aged cheese for a match made in heaven. 

Behind the Brunello Bottle with Il Poggione Winemaker Alessandro Bindocci

"Wine is science but also beauty and memories." - Alessandro Bindocci

Winemaker Alessandro Bindocci exudes the endearing confidence of a man following his passion and destiny. The son of celebrated winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci, Alessandro has known since the tender age of 6 that wine would be at the center of his life. Today, Alessandro works side-by-side with his father at Il Poggione in Montalcino to produce acclaimed Brunello di Montalcino - one of Italy's most impressive and elegant wines.


 Fabrizio and Alessandro Bindocci

Fabrizio Bindocci began working at Il Poggione in 1976 and Alessandro joined the winery in 2005 after completing his advanced degree in enology at the University of Pisa. Purchased by the Franceschi family in 1890, today Il Poggione is in the hands of the fifth generation. More than a winery, Il Poggione is a working farm with livestock, produce, and olive trees (you can also purchase their olive oil).


Over a lively lunch at Morandi restaurant in New York City, Alessandro shared Il Poggione wines and plenty of wisdom and humor. From vibrant rosé to sophisticated Brunello di Montalcino, the personality of Il Poggione wines shines through - just like the winemaker. 

Il Poggione Brancato Rosato 2015 ($18.99)

Alessandro charmingly describes rosé as "fruit juice for grown ups!" Refreshing and vivacious, this eye-catching coppery-salmon hued wine is made from 100% Sangiovese. Its round and luscious texture and flavors of orange zest, ginger, and cherry give this vino approachable complexity. Delicious enough to sip by itself but substantial enough to pair with Prosciutto and fried calamari. 



Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino 2014 ($29.99)

I like to think of Rosso di Montalcino as Brunello's flirty younger sibling. Like Brunello, Rosso is produced from 100% Sangiovese but it is aged for a much shorter period of time. Juicy and fruit-forward, Il Poggione's Rosso has mouth-watering cherry and wild red berry flavors, velvety tannins, and a lovely lingering finish. This vino has personality for days and gives a satisfying tease of the taste of Brunello: some even call it a "Baby Brunello." Pair with pizza, pasta, barbecue, or a burger.  

 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2011($84.99) 
Although it was aged for three years in large French oak barrels, this Brunello is not overwhelmed by woody characteristics. As Alessandro said, "you should taste the wine, not the oak. Sangiovese is a beautiful grape but it is delicate and can be overpowered by oak." This stellar vino is full and well-balanced with complex flavors of cherry, leather, spices, and earth. A perfect match with a juicy steak and hearty mushroom dishes. 



Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli 2010 ($125)
Produced only in the best years and in limited quantities, this beautiful Brunello comes from the oldest vineyard on the Il Poggione estate - I Paganelli. This vino displays a beautiful integration of fruit, wood, and time. Concentrated yet graceful, this sophisticated sip displays impressive energy and freshness along with hints of spice and leather. Pair with a candlelight dinner of Bistecca Fiorentina (Tuscan style Porterhouse steak). 



If you are planning a trip to Montalcino, Il Poggione welcomes visitors for tours and tastings by appointment. Accommodations are also available at a completely restored estate farmhouse. Sounds like a perfect Tuscan getaway! 

Beauty You Can Drink: Brunello di Montalcino

 
In an increasingly complicated and crazy world, a bottle of Brunello di Montalcino is a reminder that beauty exists. One of Italy's most celebrated wines, Brunello di Montalcino is produced in the relatively tiny Tuscan territory of Montalcino from the Sangiovese grape (named "Brunello" in Montalcino.) Only 15% of Montalcino's 24,000 hectares consist of vineyards but the exceptional wines they produce are coveted around the world. Elegant and expressive with impressive aging potential, Brunello di Montalcino pairs beautifully with food and elevates every meal and occasion. Brunello di Montalcino carries the DOCG classification which indicates the highest level of quality for Italian wine. After aging in oak casks (for at least 2 years) and in the bottle (at least 4 months, 6 for the Riserva), Brunello is available for sale on the 1st of January of the 5th year following harvest (6th year for the Riserva). 

Giacomo Pondini, Managing Director of Consorzio Vino Brunello Montalcino, is a charming ambassador for this exceptional wine. 

The annual Benvenuto Brunello tasting is one of the most exciting events on the wine trade calendar. Organized by the Consortium of the Brunello of Montalcino Wine, the event recently traveled to New York and Houston. Around fifty Brunello producers shared the newly released 2012 vintage which is being praised as a 5-Star Vintage for its unabashed prettiness, balance, and purity of fruit. Many producers also shared their Rosso di Montalcino which is also produced from Sangiovese but is available for sale on September 1 of the year following the vintage. Rosso di Montalcino is a delicious and more affordable way to experience a hint of Brunello. Expect to pay at least $50 for a bottle of Brunello and around $25-$30 for Rosso. 

Benvenuto Brunello certainly reminded me of why I love this wine so much. Brunello di Montalcino displays beautiful fruit, floral, and earthy flavors and each producer's wine expresses these characteristics in unique ways. Here are a few highlights from the day and some recommended wines. Cheers!  

Count Francesco Marone Cinzano of Col d'Orcia has me very tempted to write a novel that includes a dapper, distinguished, and down-to-earth producer of Brunello di Montalcino. With his dynamic personality and outstanding wines, the Count embodies the passion and sophistication of the area's winemakers. Col d'Orcia produces elegant and expressive organic wines at their vineyard whose name translates to "hill overlooking the Orcia River." Brunello di Montalcino is known to age beautifully and a sip of Col d'Orcia 1987 showcased how gracefully a well-crafted Brunello evolves.
Recommended Wines: Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012 and Col d' Orcia Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2014

On my last trip to Tuscany, I could see the majestic Castello Banfi beckoning in the distance. Alas, my itinerary did not permit me to visit but I assure you that I will never let that opportunity pass me by again. A family-owned vineyard estate and winery, Castello Banfi was founded on the philosophy of blending tradition with innovation. The precision and expressiveness of their Brunello di Montalcino is a stellar representation of the varietal.
Recommended Wines: Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012 and Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2012

The Brunello di Montalcino produced by Giovanna Neri at her Col di Lamo winery captures her personality: modern, sophisticated, and vibrant. Trained as a lawyer, Giovanna inherited her passion for wine from her father. Giovanna aims to showcase the feminine side of Brunello and her label even depicts a graceful female profile. 
Recommended Wines: Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012 and Col di Lamo Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2014 

Lorenzo Magnelli, chief winemaker at Le Chiuse is truly a son of Montalcino - he is the great-great grandson of Ferruccio Biondi-Santi who is credited with creating Brunello di Montalcino in 1888. Lorenzo's award-winning wines beautifully honor his family's legacy and he gracefully balances tradition with innovations such as state-of the-art wine cellars. 
Recommended Wines: Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012 and Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2014

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Our Last Wine Tasting of the Year - WINEormous

Sip Like the Stars with Piper-Heidsieck: Official Champagne of the Oscars

 

On more than one occasion my nearest and dearest have deemed moi a drama queen. Alas, my theatrics won't make me a contender for an Academy Award but I can sip like a movie star with Champagne Piper-Heidsieck. Piper-Heidsieck has the distinction of being the sole Champagne to be served during the 2017 Academy Awards season. In honor of the partnership, Piper-Heidsieck has created a limited-edition magnum bottle to be poured exclusively at the Oscars ceremony and the official star-studded after-party: the Governors Ball.


The exclusive Oscars red magnum with a gold film design encircling the bottle is not available for sale BUT you can sip the same bubbly: elegant, refreshing, fruit-forward, balanced, and award-winning Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut NV (around $45 for a standard 750 ml bottle.) Created in 1785, Piper-Heidsieck is one of France's oldest and most awarded Champagne houses. Piper-Heidsieck's winemaker, Régis Camus, has been named "Sparkling Winemaker of the Year" eight times over the past ten years (statistically speaking, this may make Régis the Meryl Streep of Champagne!)

So fret not if your invitation to the Oscars was somehow lost in the mail: cook up some popcorn, sashay to your sofa like it's the red carpet, pop the cork on a bottle of Piper-Heidsieck, and watch the drama unfold on your television! 

Planeta Winery Takes Your Palate on a Sicilian Adventure

"Wine was an important part of changing Sicily for the better."
- Alessio Planeta, Chief Winemaker & Co-Owner of Planeta Winery

My feet still dream of touching Sicilian soil but thanks to winemaker Alessio Planeta of Planeta Winery, my palate was recently swept away to Italy's largest island. Sicilian wines are garnering more attention and respect than ever before and Planeta has played an important role in this revolution. Founded in 1995, Planeta's slogan "a journey to Sicily" is more than lip service - they produce wine on 6 different estates that transverse the island. Their journey began at Sambuca di Sicilia at an estate that the family has owned since the 1600's.



Each Planeta estate is essentially a boutique winery in its own right. Each winery is built using local materials that respect the architecture of the region. In each area, Planeta meticulously cultivates indigenous and international grapes that are suited to thrive -- it is truly a terroir driven approach and you can taste it in the wines. 
 

Frappato DOC Vittoria 2015 ($22)
Frappato is such a fun word to say and just as delicious to sip. Fruity, light, and fresh with flavors of rose, candied violet, and a hint of balsamic; this playful but beautifully made wine is produced from Frappato grapes cultivated on Planeta's seaside vineyards in Vittoria.


Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG 2014 ($24)
Grown in Sicily's only DOCG (the highest level of quality for Italian wines), this vino blends the robust power of Nero d'Avola (60%) with the flirty freshness of Frappato (40%). Cerasuolo means "cherry red" in Italian and the wine is named for its beautiful color. A lovely sip, it is supple and lively with flavors of strawberry, cherry, pomegranate, and a touch of pepper. 

Dorilli Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG 2014 ($33)
The grapes for this elegant wine come from carefully selected vines at Planeta's Dorilli estate. Named after the nearby Dorilli River, the Planeta farmhouse at Dorilli is near land which belonged to their paternal grandmother. With a lovely round texture and an appealing harmony between sweet fruit and spice, this versatile vino can pair with a wide variety of foods. Alessio said that Cerasuolo is traditionally paired with fish but he also recommends it with tomato based dishes. 


Noto Nero d'Avola DOC 2012 ($26)
Rich and robust Nero d'Avola is Sicily's most famous grape and this bottling from Planeta's Buonivini estate is a wonderful expression of the varietal. Dry with lingering flavors of rose, hibiscus, strawberry, and herbs; pair this beauty with red meat and hearty pastas. 


Santa Cecilia Noto DOC 2011($45)
Sophisticated and supple, Santa Cecilia is Planeta's benchmark wine produced from 100% Nero d'Avola. Planeta describes Noto's white soils and ancient vines as the ideal area for Nero d'Avola cultivation. For me the true test of Nero d'Avola is a balance between power and finesse and this wine succeeds beautifully. This sophisticated wine is rich and dark with bold flavors of blackberry, plum, and blackcurrant that are balanced by lively acidity and hints of herbs, graphite, and pepper. Pair with steak, lamb, aged cheeses, mushroom based dishes, and pasta with meat sauce.

If you're planning a trip to Sicily, Planeta invites visitors to reserve tastings and meals at several of their estates. Accommodations are available at The Resort. 

 

Sonoma Shines Through in the Wines of St. Francis Winery & Vineyards

 Winemaker Chris Louton and the team at St. Francis Winery & Vineyards are committed to producing wines with a distinct regional character where the terroir of Sonoma shines through. 
 
For us unabashed wine geeks, wine is nothing short of a spiritual experience and Sonoma is one of the sacred places. Even if you've never made the pilgrimage to Sonoma, if you love the wine you're a member of the tribe. Named after the patron saint of animals, ecology, and merchants; St. Francis Winery & Vineyards has been crafting wines from Sonoma County's best appellations for more than 30 years and is known for their fruit-forward and food-friendly wines.

A statue of St. Francis of Assisi greets winery guests at the Visitors Center. 

I recently had the pleasure of sharing a few St. Francis wines with winemaker Chris Louton. A native Californian, Chris became enamored of wine in college and left behind his pursuit of veterinary medicine to enroll in the prestigious viticulture and enology program at the University of California, Davis. Chris has been at St. Francis since 2013 (he was previously at Beringer Vineyards in Napa) and shares winemaking duties with Katie Madigan. Chris calls their division of labor "divide & conquer" - he focuses on the Bordeaux varietals and Katie's responsibilities include the production of Zinfandel and Chardonnay. 

St. Francis Winery welcomes visitors for tours and tastings. Their restaurant has been selected as one of the 100 Best Restaurants in America by OpenTable diners. 

St. Francis is a regional leader in green practices and in 2013 they were officially certified as a Sustainable Vineyard and Winery -- their namesake would surely be proud. My guided tasting with Chris was my first experience with St. Francis wines and I was impressed by their easy elegance - beautifully crafted but unpretentious.


St. Francis Winery Sonoma County Chardonnay 2014 ($16.99)
Vibrant and pretty with flavors of fresh apple and pear that are revved up by hints of pineapple and vanilla cream. 
 

 St. Francis Winery Reserve Merlot Sonoma Valley 2014 ($39.99)
Stop ignoring Merlot, it can't be beat when you're craving a juicy and luscious wine. This classic beauty is elegant with flavors of succulent plum and hints of chocolate. 


St. Francis Winery Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2014 ($39.99)
Delicious proof that a California Cabernet can be powerful without being obnoxious, this sophisticated sip has classic flavors of black currant and blackberry with a savory touch of spice and cedar. 

St. Francis Winery Reserve Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley 2014 ($39.99)
Crafted from vines 50-100 years old, this is an excellent expression of old vine Zinfandel. Velvety, juicy, and spicy with lingering flavors of black cherries and spice. 

A Vino for Every Mood: Modern & Traditional Italian Red Wines from Tommasi

Just like musicians, artists, and fashion designers; certain winemakers have a style that captures my attention. Tommasi is one of those winemakers. From exquisite Amarone to superb Prosecco, each Tommasi wine that I've tasted has impressed me with its authenticity and elegance. The Tommasi family has been producing wine in Italy since 1902 and they have estates in various regions; including Valpolicella and Tuscany. If you're looking for a delicious red wine to warm up your winter nights and to pair with a home-cooked meal, here are two delicious sips from Tommasi. Cheers! 

Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo 2013 ($18)
An artful blend of Sangiovese (60%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), this modern beauty is produced at Tommasi's new project in Tuscany's coastal Maremma region. The grapes come from a single-vineyard site called Rompicollo and the wine is silky, juicy, and fruity. Vibrant flavors of cherries and red berries make this an elegant but unpretentious sip. A great match with pasta dishes.  

Tommasi Ripasso Valpolicella 2014 ($33)
Tommasi is renowned for their exceptional Amarone and their Ripasso Valpolicella simply would not exist without Amarone. This unique red wine is produced by fermenting Valpolicella wine for a second time with the grape skins that remain after the vinification of Amarone. The end result is a wonderful red wine that melds hints of Amarone's richness and spice with the freshness and vibrancy of Valpolicella. A truly delicious blend of Corvina Veronese (70%), Rondinella (25%), and Corvinone (5%), pair this vino with a delicious steak or hearty stew.  

From the Mountains of Israel to Your Wineglass: Superb Sips from Psagot Winery

Yaakov Berg, founder of Psagot Winery

Yaakov Berg may have trained as a lawyer but winemaking was clearly his destiny. Born in Russia, his family moved to Israel when he was 3 years old. His father was a mathematician with dreams of working the land and that wish came to fruition when Yaakov was 13 and the family planted a small vineyard for their personal enjoyment. That hands-on experience ignited Yaakov's passion for winemaking. After completing his military service, Yaakov's travels took him to wineries in Australia and New Zealand. In 2003, Yaakov founded Psagot Winery. Psagot means the peak of the mountain in Hebrew and the winery is located in the northern Jerusalem Mountain range. Psagot grows international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to craft wines that are undeniably Israeli but have universal appeal.

image courtesy of Psagot Winery

For Yaakov, "Wine is not just a drink. It is culture." He celebrates the powerful connection of winemaking to the history and traditions of the Jewish people. A cave was discovered on the grounds of Psagot Winery that contained ancient wine and olive oil presses. Today, that ancient cave serves as Psagot's wine barrel cellar. In our conversation, Yaakov enthusiastically exclaimed "after 2,000 years, the land came back to life!"


Also discovered in the cave were coins dating back to 70 AD with an inscription of an amphora - an ancient vessel for wine storage. A striking replica of the coin is affixed to the Psagot bottles, including their award-winning Psagot Edom 2013 ($35). A balanced blend of Merlot (63%), Cabernet Sauvignon (16%), Petit Verdot (11%), and Cabernet Franc (10%), Edom is rich and silky with luscious dark fruit & berry flavors and vibrant hints of Mediterranean herbs. A beautiful match with rosemary seasoned lamb chops or a juicy burger.


 

Psagot Sinai 2014 ($17) offers easygoing elegance at a fantastic price. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (55%) and Shiraz (45%), it is dry but refreshingly juicy and spicy. A great match with BBQ and more casual meals.  

If you only drink Cabernet Sauvignon from California, Psagot Cabernet Sauvignon ($30) will intrigue your palate. While the grape's signature rich and robust traits are evident, this wine has a distinctive, yet not overwhelming, herbaceousness that enhances the deep dark fruit flavors. Grill up a steak with this beauty! 

image courtesy of Psagot Winery

If you're not familiar with wines from Israel, give Psagot a swirl. I've sipped several different wines from Israel over the past few months and I have been absolutely impressed by the quality, diversity, and authenticity of the wines. The region has a tremendous legacy of winemaking and dynamic winemakers like Yaakov are proving that Israeli wines can compete on the global stage. If you're planning a trip to Israel, Psagot welcomes visitors for tours and tastings. Cheers! 

'Tis the Season to Sparkle: Seven Sensational Champagnes!

A beautiful bottle of Champagne is the easiest and most elegant way to take a party from blah to ooh la la! Not even Scrooge can resist the percussion of a popping cork and tiny bubbles dancing away in the glass. I love Champagne all year round but its inherent luxury and beauty make it a perfect match for holiday festivities. Champagne is joy in a glass! From small growers/producers to legendary houses, here are seven sensational non-vintage Champagnes that will add some sophisticated sparkle to your soirées. I selected non-vintage Champagnes, a blend of harvests from different years, because they are often the clearest indicators of a producer's style and the blends are crafted to maintain a certain consistency from year to year. And remember, Champagne ONLY comes from Champagne, France. Cheers! 

Champagne Collet Brut Art Deco NV ($42)
Founded in 1921, Champagne Collet has embraced the elegance and style of the Art Deco period as part of their identity. Their divine Brut Art Deco is comprised of about 20 crus, all Premier or Grand Cru.  Aged for at least four years in chalk cellars, this full-bodied Champagne has vibrant fruit flavors, crunchy minerality, and exuberant acidity. 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier.

 
Champagne Duval-Leroy Brut Reserve NV ($45)
Family owned and operated since 1859, Duval-Leroy is the largest independent house in Champagne. A blend of around 15 crus and reserve wines, this sophisticated sip has an alluring creaminess that is balanced by flavors of fresh pear and red apple with a hint of lemon zest and toasted brioche. 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier, 10% Chardonnay. 

image courtesy of Champagne Taittinger

Champagne Taittinger Brut La Française ($50)
One of the last family owned and operated Grand Marque Champagne houses in France, Taittinger is celebrated for their exquisitely crafted bubblies that incorporate a larger percentage of Chardonnay than other large houses. As chic as a couture dress, this bubbly is a beguiling shade of pale gold with fine bubbles. Delicate but distinctive, it has lovely flavors of fresh fruit, honey, and brioche. 40% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 25% Pinot Meunier

Champagne Piper-Heidsieck Brut NV ($45)
 Founded in 1785, Piper-Heidsieck is one of the oldest Champagne houses and their Chef de Cave, Régis Camus, has been named “Champagne Winemaker of the Year” a record eight times! His magic touch is evident in their non-vintage Champagne's fine bubbles, lingering finish, and balanced flavors of citrus, pear, brioche, and minerality. Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay  

Pol Roger Brut Reserve White Foil NV ($50)
Want to sip like royalty? Select the bubbly that was served at the reception following the nuptials of Prince William to Miss Catherine Middleton (now the Duchess of Cambridge.) Founded in 1849, Pol Roger is one of the few Grande Marque Champagne houses that remains family owned and operated. Their delicious White Foil thrills the palate with beautifully balanced acidity, creaminess, and hints of toasty brioche. 34% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Noir, 33% Pinot Meunier

 Champagne Éric Taillet Egali'T Brut ($37)
Grape grower and Champagne producer Éric Taillet is not yet a household name but I'm certain that is about to change. A relative newcomer to the US market, Eric crafts expressive Champagnes that exude elegance and energy. The name of his Egali'T Brut is inspired by the equal proportions of Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay in the blend.  Each sip showcases a delicious balance of fruit, minerality, and acidity!

Champagne Marion-Bosser Premier Cru Brut Tradition ($44.99)
For generations, mothers and daughters, have led the house of Champagne Marion-Bosser and the tradition continues with the team of Bernadette and Elodie Marion. This impeccably structured Champagne is full-bodied yet graceful with lovely fruit and mineral flavors. 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir 

 Please note that all prices are approximate. Cheers! 

Israeli Wines That Soar: Superb Sips from Golan Heights Winery

"Wine conveys a feeling of its source from within. The region in which the grapes are grown is embedded in the taste, aroma and color of the wine. Wine, therefore, has the power to embody the culture, language, scents and people of its region."
- Victor Schoenfeld, Head Winemaker, Golan Heights Winery

Winemaker Victor Schoenfeld brings California swagger to Golan Heights Winery in Israel. A native of the Golden State, Victor earned his degree in Enology from the University of California, Davis and worked at wineries in California and France before being named as the head winemaker of Golan Heights Winery in 1992. Victor's talents and expertise have guided Golan Heights Winery to the upper echelons of Israeli wine producers and they were recently included in the Wine Spectator cover story dedicated to the growing prominence of Israeli wines.  

After planting their first vineyards in the Golan in 1976, Golan Heights Winery was founded in 1983 and represents an exciting chapter in Israel's modern winemaking history. Although Israel's winemaking traditions can be traced back thousands of years, a renaissance has been blooming in Israel's vineyards and Golan Heights Winery has been an integral part of this exciting new chapter.


I recently had the opportunity to taste several wines from Golan Heights Winery's premier line of flagship wines - Yarden. Made from the finest grapes from their best vineyards, the Yarden wines reflect Victor's statement that "the key to quality is in the vineyard." Golan Heights' volcanic soil and cool high-altitude climate nurture the growth of high-quality grapes and this is evident in each sip. From crisp whites to bold reds, the Yarden wines express Israel beautifully and showcase world-class wines with universal appeal. 

Yarden Gewurztraminer 2015 ($24.99)
Flirty floral flavors are kicked up a notch with exuberant touches of spice and lychee. Tropical with a hint of herbs. A refreshing apéritif and a winning match with spicy food! 

Yarden Katzrin Chardonnay 2014 ($30)
Winemaker Victor Schoenfeld describes "oak as a picture frame that focuses the attention" but does not overwhelm - balance is key. This philosophy is beautifully expressed in this wonderful Chardonnay. French oak enhances this full-bodied wine's flavors of ripe pear, lemon, and apple. Energetic acidity and a touch of flint make this a balanced beauty! Pair with salmon or roast chicken. 

 

Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ($39.99)
Victor describes this velvety red as an "iconic Israeli wine." Intense and juicy flavors of blackberry and dark cherry are revved up with touches of black tea and herbs. Pair with steak, lamb, veal, and pasta with mushrooms. 

Visit the Golan Heights Winery website to discover more wines in their portfolio. If you're planning a trip to Israel, they welcomes visitors for tours and tastings. Cheers! 

 

Pour Some Holiday Cheer: Five Fantastic Red Wines for the Naughty and Nice!

Forget the milk and cookies - if you really want to impress Santa and move off the naughty list, pour him a glass of red wine. Here are five fantastic reds that are certain to add some cheer to your holiday season!

Fontanafredda Barolo Serralunga d'Alba DOCG 2011 ($45)
Italy (Piemonte)
Known as the king of wines, a beautiful bottle of Barolo always dazzles! The big tannins and acidity of the Nebbiolo grape, along with its signature flavors of tar & roses, can often make Barolo overwhelming but this supple beauty from Fontanafredda dances across the palate. Elegant flavors of dried roses and cherries with hints of vanilla and spice, this soft & velvety Barolo is accessible yet impressive. Founded by Italy's first king in 1858, Fontanafredda is one of Barolo’s most historic wineries and located in the village of Serralunga d’Alba.

El Enemigo Cabernet Franc 2011($30)
Argentina (Mendoza)
This is one sexy vino! Spicy, juicy and bold with intense flavors of cassis, dark cherries, currants, and red plums that are balanced by pops of pepper and clove. Forget the mistletoe, pour your sweetie a glass of El Enemigo and besos are guaranteed. 

Casisano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2011 ($60)
Italy (Tuscany)
Have you been naughty this year? Share a bottle of Casisano Brunello di Montalcino and all will be forgiven. Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy's most important wines and this beauty from the famed Tommasi family is a lovely expression of the varietal. Produced from a small terraced vineyard in Montalcino, this vibrant and rich wine has tantalizing flavors of dark fruit with lively spice and vanilla accents. 

Markham Vineyards Merlot 2014 ($26)
California (Napa Valley)
Spread the beauty of Merlot with this gorgeous sip from Napa Valley. Founded in 1874, Markham is the fourth oldest continuously operating winery in Napa Valley and the 2014 vintage marks the 35th anniversary of their flagship Merlot. Robust and juicy with mouth-watering flavors of fresh ripe plums, black cherries, and a touch of espresso and spice; this is a joyful Merlot that is perfect for the season. 

 MWC Pinot Noir 2014 ($18)
Australia (Central Victoria)
This elegant, nuanced, and downright delicious Pinot Noir from Down Under is joy in a glass. With pure flavors of cherry, strawberry, and plum heightened by accents of tea and spice, this Pinot Noir displays European finesse while authentically expressing the terroir of Central Victoria. Produced by the family-owned and operated McPherson Wine Company, the MWC line showcases premium wines without pretension for under $20. That's something to celebrate this season! 

 

Sip Like Royalty: Fabulous Fronsac Wines from Château de La Dauphine

Once upon a time there was a lovely princess who had a craving for the finest wine in the land. The royal thirst of Maria Josepha of Saxony, the Dauphine of France and the mother of Louis XVI, led her to Château de La Dauphine in Fronsac. Surely, the reputation of these superb wines, from a vineyard that coincidentally shared her name, proved irresistible to La Dauphine. One of the oldest wine-producing areas in Bordeaux, in the 18th century wines from Fronsac were the most highly prized and expensive wines in the kingdom. 

image courtesy of Château de La Dauphine

Today, the wines of Fronsac may not have the larger-than-life mystique (and price) of Bordeaux appellations like Margaux and St. Emilion, but the region offers high quality wines that don't require a royal budget to enjoy. One of the largest properties in Fronsac, the history of Château de La Dauphine can be traced back to the 17th century and it has only changed hands a few times. In 2015, the property was purchased by the Labrune family and they remain committed to carrying on the previous family's legacy of producing high-quality biodynamic wines that authentically express the finesse of the terroir. 

image courtesy of Château de La Dauphine

 

image courtesy of Château de La Dauphine

Château de La Dauphine grows Merlot and Cabernet Franc at their 130 acre organic vineyard, located on Bordeaux's Right Bank in one of the meandering loops of the Dordogne River. The wines are produced in their ultra-modern facility that respects the integrity of the fruit. I recently had the opportunity to meet with Marion Merker, a representative of the Château, and she stated that their commitment to organic & biodynamic production "is a way to protect employees, community, and consumers." Marion also said that "wine is to share, to enjoy, to taste." I absolutely agree and with their wines priced in the $18-$35 range, Château de La Dauphine makes it easy to spread the joy!

 

 

The wines are absolutely food-friendly and paired beautifully with the meal that we shared at New York City's famed Gotham Bar & Grill. Château de La Dauphine will certainly add a certain ooh la la to your meals at home! 


Château de La Dauphine 2012 is their first vintage produced in collaboration with famed oenologist Michel Rolland and also the first year of their conversion to organic farming. A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, it displays that Rolland style of full-bodied but graceful wines with pure and luscious fruit. An elegant but unpretentious wine, it is velvety and smooth with rich flavors of blackberry, blackcurrant, and dark cherry. The beauty of Château de La Dauphine is that the blend is always 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, so it really allows you to explore the unique qualities of each vintage. The 2010 vintage displays fresh dark fruit flavors along with touches of licorice and spice. 2009 is a bit creamier with hints of vanilla and dried fruits. 


image courtesy of Château de La Dauphine

If you're planning a trip to France, Château de La Dauphine is only 40km from Bordeaux and welcomes visitors (by appointment) for tours, workshops, and lunches. It's worth the trip - they have been awarded gold level prizes for Best of Wine Tourism and even for the lunches served in the property's various picturesque settings. It certainly sounds like everyone gets the royal treatment at Château de La Dauphine!