in Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, wine grapes, Winemaker | Permalink | Comments (0)
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Devis Romanelli's family has been making wine in the hills of Montefalco for three generations. Like many Montefalco wine estates, Romanelli also produces olive oil.
Now is the perfect time to start planning your wine-centric adventures for 2023. If you’re looking for authentic wines, warm people, and a stunning natural landscape, Montefalco delivers all that and more. Montefalco is in Umbria, known as the “Green Heart of Italy” because of its verdant green landscape. And the tiny hilltop town of Montefalco, with a population of around 6,000 people, could very well be considered the wine heart of Umbria: It’s a small town that has significantly impacted the Italian wine scene.
The view from Tabarrini Winery.
I’ve traveled to Italy countless times, yet Umbria had always evaded me until I visited Montefalco in the Spring of 2022 to attend a preview of the region’s wines hosted by the Montefalco Wine Consortium. Montefalco has a rich winemaking history that spans centuries, but it’s only in recent decades that the area started garnering serious attention and acclaim for its red wine, Sagrantino. Indigenous to Montefalco, the grape reaches its highest expression in its hills and calcareous clay soils. Montefalco Sagrantino was granted DOCG status in 1992.
Sagrantino is a powerful, tannic, and complex grape, and regulations require that Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG contain 100% of the grape. During my visit to Montefalco, many producers expressed their desire to create red wines that are more approachable but still authentic.
The Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG wines I enjoyed most still displayed power but weren’t clunky, aggressive, or too oaky. The essence of the grape came through in the glass -- flavors of black plum, black cherry, licorice, earth, and black pepper. By nature, the Sagrantino grape is extremely tannic; but Montefalco’s producers have found ways to manage the tannins. For example, picking riper grapes and aging the wines in used oak can mitigate tannins. But because of its impressive structure, Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG is a wine that ages like a dream. Even the more approachable expressions really start to sing in the glass 10, 15, and 20+ years later.
While waiting for your Montefalco Sagrantino to age, give Montefalco Rosso DOC a swirl. Mostly Sangiovese with 10-25% Sagrantino, the result is an approachable red wine with structure, freshness, and softer tannins.
Montefalco’s red wines are quite special, but the white wines, especially Trebbiano Spoletino, are also a revelation. This white grape is native to Umbria and produces wines with texture, finesse, and aging potential. And Montefalco Bianco DOC wines blend a minimum of 50% Trebbiano Spoletino with other white varieties.
Fresh and bright Montefalco Grechetto DOC is a flirty and refreshing everyday sip.
Are you ready for an adventure in Montefalco? Even if your travels don’t take you to Umbria, I encourage you to try wines from the 12 producers listed below. Cheers!
Arnaldo Caprai
Ten years ago, I was invited to a tasting in NYC to celebrate Arnaldo Caprai being honored as European Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast. On that day, I met winemaker Marco Caprai and tasted Sagrantino for the first time. Arnaldo Caprai, Marco’s father, founded his eponymous winery in 1971 and Marco assumed leadership in 1988. Marco embarked on a mission to create Sagrantino wines of exceptional quality. To say Marco succeeded is an understatement; he is widely credited for proving to a global audience that Sagrantino from Montefalco deserved to be recognized as one of Italy’s top-tier wines. Marco’s success generated interest and acclaim for other winemakers in Montefalco.
Tabarrini
Meet the vivacious and poetic innovator of Montefalco -- winemaker Giampaolo Tabarrini. During my recent visit to his beautiful winery, Giampaolo said I could select any bottle from the cellar to pair with our lunch. I chose a wine that I absolutely adore, Tabarrini “Adarmando” Trebbiano Spoletino. Giampaolo advised me to pick a vintage that reflected a special time in my life, so I picked 2010 -- the year I first started writing about wine.
Full of life and energy at 12-years-old, Adarmando 2010 showed no signs of slowing down; it was textured, generous, and multi-dimensional. Just like Giampaolo.
Scacciadiavoli
Founded in 1884, Scacciadiavoli is one of the oldest properties in Montefalco. It was a pleasure to tour the old, but very efficient cellars with fourth-generation vintner Liù Pambuffetti. The original cellars may not be shiny and new but they are full of soul. The name Scacciadiavoli means banish the devils and refers to an episode of exorcism in the 14th century when a young woman who was possessed by the devil was liberated by drinking some local red wine. In addition to the core wines of the region, Scacciadiavoli also produces world-class traditional method sparkling wines.
And a special thank you to Chef Giulio Gigli of Ristorante UNE for the delicious and creative small bites that accompanied the Scacciadiavoli wines.
Alessandro Lunelli and winemaker Luca Capaldini
Simultaneously futuristic and organic, Tenuta Castelbuono makes heads turn. Did aliens build this winery in Umbria or did it hatch from the earth? Proprietor Alessandro Lunelli solved the mystery: Acclaimed contemporary artist Arnaldo Pomodoro designed this unique structure, known as the “Carapace” (turtle shell), to blur the lines between architecture and sculpture.
Alessandro described the Carapace as a sculpture that people can enter. And upon entering, visitors can enjoy some solid wines. If the name Lunelli sounds familiar, it’s because their award-winning Ferrari wines are the pillars of Trentodoc, the traditional method sparkling wine from Trento, in the north of Italy. Intrigued by the quality of Sagrantino wines coming out of Montefalco, in 2001 the Lunelli family purchased Tenuta Castelbuono. A few years later, they committed to building a new winery to match their vision for crafting elegant and high-quality wines.
Meet the dynamic duo of Nicola and Lorenzo Mattoni from Cantina Terre de Trinci! These charming and hardworking brothers are pouring their heart, soul, and expertise into making wines that authentically express the terroir and culture of Umbria. Nicola (on the left) is the winemaker and Lorenzo (right) handles marketing and exports. We often talk about the aging potential of Sagrantino and Terre de Trinci proved it by pouring an exceptional 1998 Sagrantino – it was full of energy and layers of flavor.
Filippo Antonelli
image courtesy of Antonelli
Talk about a rich history -- this expansive estate, of 430 acres, is mentioned in several medieval documents and has been in the Antonelli family since 1881. Visitors can enjoy wine tastings, overnight stays in a restored antique farmhouse, and cooking classes.
Chiara (left) and Teresa Lungarotti (right) with their mother Maria Grazia.
image courtesy of Lungarotti
Considered one of Umbria's premier wineries, Lungarotti was founded by Giorgio Lungarotti in the 1960s. Today, his daughters Chiara (CEO) and Teresa (enologist) lead the company.
La VenerandaWith Roberto from La Veneranda.
This small family-owned winery is one of the hidden treasures of the region and has deep roots in Montefalco; they’ve been cultivating land in the region since 1568.
image courtesy of Romanelli
Three generations of the Romanelli family live and work together to produce wine and olive oil at their picture-perfect hilltop estate in the heart of Montefalco. They also have a wine shop in the historic town center.
Benedetti & Grigi winemaker Matteo Basili
One of the newer wineries in Montefalco, Benedetti & Grigi produced their first vintage in 2014.
Sandra and Danilo Antonelli make terroir-driven wines at their family's small farm in Montefalco.
Terre di San Felice
On my last day in Montefalco, I spent a sweet morning at Terre di San Felice. I’ll never forget sitting in the backyard of the farmhouse and sharing wine and laughter with Carlo Mancini and his cousin who reminded me a bit of Robert DeNiro! I felt like I was visiting long lost family. Such a special moment. Lovely wines made from the heart.
Where to Stay
image courtesy of La Rocca Guest House & Spa
Just a three-minute walk from Montefalco's main square, Piazza del Comune, this charming and comfortable guest house is owned by a Roman who left city life behind for Umbria's rustic appeal. Spacious rooms, gorgeous views of the countryside, and delicious breakfast.
On my balcony at La Rocca Guest House
Where to Dine
Ristorante Locanda del Teatro Montefalco
Located just down the street from La Rocca Guest House, this elegant restaurant has it all: beautiful ambiance, attentive service, great wine list, and innovative interpretations of local cuisine. We liked it so much, we ate there twice!
image courtesy of Enoteca di Benozzo
Located on the Piazza del Comune, this is a great spot for soaking in the local scene and enjoying local cheeses, salumi, and wines.
in Italy, Montefalco, Travel, Umbria, Wine, wine grapes, Winemaker | Permalink | Comments (0)
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Michel Rolland - the original flying winemaker and founder of Clos de Los Siete.
image courtesy of Clos de Los Siete
Few people can take credit for creating an entirely new career category, but Michel Rolland is the original flying winemaker. Crisscrossing continents and oceans, this Bordeaux-born enologist has worked with more than 150 wineries around the globe. This year marks Rolland's 50th harvest.
Rolland was instantly captivated when he traveled to Argentina for the first time in 1988. Recognizing it as "a beautiful place to make wine," he searched for the perfect spot to launch his own wine project. It took impressive patience, but Rolland didn't give up. Finally, in 1999, Rolland located a premier location at the foot of the Andes Mountains in the Uco Valley, sixty miles south of Mendoza. He partnered with six other French families and formed Clos de Los Siete -- The Vineyard of Seven. 2002 was the first vintage of this Malbec-driven blend.
I recently tasted the 2019 vintage of Clos de Los Siete with Rolland when he was in New York for a whirlwind visit. But Monsieur Rolland upped the ante. Not only was it a blind tasting of six vintages, but the wines also were not served in chronological order. Attendees were provided with descriptions of each vintage, and we had to guess which vintage was in each glass. Really, no pressure at all! And did I mention that I was seated next to Rolland? A little voice inside my head kept saying, "Wanda, don't mess this up!"
Why present the wines in this way? "Consistency is our goal," said Rolland. He added, "it makes me happy that it's very difficult to know which is the oldest or youngest."
Rolland wasn't kidding; it was very challenging to identify which of the six wines matched the specific vintages: 2019, 2018, 2017, 2015, 2010, and 2009. How is that possible? There are usually some telltale traits that red wines develop as they age. For example, the color often fades, and the fruit flavors give way to more savory and tertiary flavors. But even in the oldest vintage presented in the tasting, 2009, the changes in the wine were very subtle: the color was deep and bright, and the fruit was fresh and rich.
image courtesy of Clos de Los Siete
How does Clos de Los Siete do this? Terroir is an integral piece of the puzzle. The climate, altitude, sunlight, water, and soil of the Andes have a tremendous impact on the grapes. For example, the temperature swings of the high-altitude location allow the grapes to ripen slowly with great concentration. The vines are irrigated with pure melted snow from the Andes. And the soil composition of sand, gravel, and clay provides excellent drainage, which encourages the growth of quality grapes.
Malbec is the grape that put Mendoza on the map and is always the dominant grape in Clos de Los Siete. And although the exact varietal composition varies each year, the wine is usually a blend of Malbec, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot.
image courtesy of Clos de Los Siete
"I am a blender. I am from Bordeaux," said Rolland. He applies that blending know-how to Clos de Los Siete. Since it is not a single-varietal wine, the blend is fine-tuned each year to achieve that desired consistency from one vintage to the next.
Four of the seven original families who founded Clos de Los Siete remain involved in the project. Their wineries, Monteviejo, Cuvelier Los Andes, DiamAndes, and Bodega Rolland, each contribute grapes from their plots for the wine. Each year, each winery creates its own blend, and Rolland is the puzzle master that puts them all together. He tastes and selects the components that will form the final Clos de Los Siete blend. "My goal every year is to make a great wine," said Rolland.
The tasting notes provided for the blind tasting described 2019 Clos de Los Siete ($21) as "Another great vintage in the Uco Valley." It is rich and juicy with hints of spice and impressive freshness for such a robust wine. It certainly achieved Rolland's goal of making a wine that is "easy to approach," can be paired with food and enjoyed any time of the day.
And perhaps you're wondering how I did in the blind tasting. Well, in a room of wine professionals, no one identified more than one vintage of Clos de Los Siete correctly. I identified 2010, which the tasting notes described as a "warm and drier vintage."
One out of six isn't going to win me any awards, but it was an invigorating exercise. I loved using the clues and my senses to figure out the puzzle.
Monsieur Rolland made us all feel better when he chuckled and said that even he finds this tasting difficult -- and he makes the wine! A small price to pay for consistency!
Throughout his career, Rolland has partnered in producing many of the world's most acclaimed wines -- and those often bear a price tag that makes them unattainable for many people. I was delighted to see he applies that same precision and passion to the affordable and widely available Clos de Los Siete so that quality wine is within reach for everyone. Cheers!
in Argentina, Malbec, Mendoza, Wine, wine grapes, Winemaker | Permalink | Comments (0)
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Winemakers Daniele Vuerich (Attems, left) and Alessandro Marini (Tenuta Luce, right).
My meeting with winemakers Alessandro Marina (Tenuta Luce) and Daniele Vuerich (Attems) was one of my most memorable appointments this year.
I was so inspired by their passion and commitment to the art and science of winemaking. These young winemakers have already achieved great success; I look forward to following their careers for many years to come.
Attems and Tenuta Luce are both owned by the venerable Frescobaldi winemaking family.
Attems is located in Friuli, in the northeast of Italy, a region celebrated for white wines with texture and character. Tenuta Luce is located in the renowned Tuscan appellation, Montalcino.
Attems Pinot Grigio Ramato 2021($20) is an antidote to the bland and watery Pinot Grigio that has saturated the US market. Ramato means copper, and the wine gets its coppery hue from extended skin contact during maceration. Daniele described the wine as a “rosé-style Pinot Grigio” with “complexity and lively acidity.”
Attems “Cicinis” Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($35) hails from the heart from the Collio region of Friuli. A single-vineyard wine, it is zesty and bright with a touch of herbs and a slightly creamy texture.
Tenuta Luce “Luce” Toscana 2019 ($130) is one of Italy’s iconic “Super Tuscan” wines and the first in Montalcino to blend Sangiovese and Merlot. Alessandro said the “very flamboyant” Merlot is balanced by the acidity of the Sangiovese. Silky and almost creamy with rich red fruit flavors and a kiss of spice.
Tenuta Luce Brunello di Montalcino 2017 ($135) is an elegant and classic expression of the regal Brunello. Bold and balanced with well-integrated tannins and a long finish, the Sangiovese grape sings in the glass.
in Collio, Friuli, Italy, Montalcino, Wine, wine grapes, Winemaker | Permalink | Comments (0)
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Eduardo Chadwick, and his daughter Magui, presented the 2019 Seña and past vintages that showcased the impressive elegance and aging capacity of this iconic Chilean wine.
At the risk of sounding like a broken record, please indulge me as I repeat one of my favorite refrains: So many wines, so little time. I often feel exhilaration and exasperation as I navigate my way through the sheer volume of wines available today. But some wines stand out from the captivating chaos of fermented grapes, and Seña is such a wine.
Eduardo Chadwick and Robert Mondavi at Seña's vineyard.
image courtesy of Seña
The landscape was wildly different when the first vintage of Seña was released in 1997. Naysayers doubted Chile's capacity to produce top-tier wines that could compete on a global stage. But two visionary vintners, Eduardo Chadwick from Chile and Robert Mondavi from the United States, joined forces in 1995 to create Seña. Its release caused quite a sensation, and Seña has won countless accolades and secured its status as one of Chile's premier wines.
Seña 2019 ($125) marks the 25th anniversary since it debuted in 1997 with the 1995 vintage. A rich and elegant blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Malbec, 15% Carmenere, and 4% Petit Verdot, Seña's complex layers of fruit, spice, herbs, and earth are balanced by a vibrant freshness. The cooling breezes of the nearby sea influence Seña's vineyards in the Aconcagua Valley, and that kiss of the sea is perceptible. A very impressive sip!
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Hervé Birnie-Scott aka El Loco Francés (The Crazy Frenchman)
Founder & Estate Director, Terrazas de los Andes
My mellow mood, fueled by a rainy day in Manhattan, called for an elegant yet approachable wine that would wrap around me like a cashmere scarf. So I reached for three intriguing bottles of Malbec from Terrazas de los Andes that had patiently waited for me to taste them. Yes, Malbec.
Some folks don't consider Malbec cool because it's ubiquitous. But a wine's cool factor isn't its most important attribute. I want well-made, authentic, balanced wines with a compelling story, and Terrazas de los Andes delivers on all fronts. And honestly, anyone who doesn't think that Malbec is cool has not been paying attention to the exciting developments in Argentine winemaking. Not all Malbecs are created equal, and Terrazas de los Andes is an example of how compelling it can be when made with care and creativity.
Armed with only a WW1- era altimeter, in the early 1990's French viticulturist and winemaker Hervé Birnie-Scott set off on an adventure to explore the high-altitude terraces of the Andes. His equipment may have been ancient, but Hervé's skills and intuition were up to the task: he is a cold-climate winemaking expert with experience in Sancerre, Victoria, and California's North Coast. Hervé's unconventional approach and years-long quest to make wine from these high-altitude vineyards earned him the nickname of "el loco Francés" (the crazy Frenchman) from the locals. He may be a little loco, but Hervé's wines are a thing of beauty.
Fresh, vibrant, nuanced, and bursting with flavor, the Terrazas de los Andes expressions of Malbec are full-bodied and graceful. They are complex without being clunky and overwrought. Their portfolio also includes Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, which I look forward to tasting.
Terrazas de los Andes Tasting Notes
Malbec Reserva 2020 ($19.99) is a charming introduction to the fresh and flavorful Terrazas de los Andes style. Crisp with juicy flavors of red and black fruit, violets, and a kiss of sweet spice, it is composed of Malbec grapes from more than 100 parcels from 7 estate vineyards that range in altitude from 3510 ft. to 4101 ft. above sea level. An elevated everyday sip.
Grand Malbec 2018 ($59.99)
A blend of three vineyards with elevations ranging from 3510 ft. to 4100 ft. above sea level, this wine is described as "the fullest expression of Malbec from Terrazas de los Andes." It is more complex and fuller-bodied than the Reserva, but that signature freshness shines through. Ripe black fruit with hints of violet, sweet spices, savory threads of dried herbs, and a touch of graphite.
Parcel No. 1E “El Espinillo” Malbec 2018 ($99.99)
Described as "the jewel in the Terrazas crown," El Espinillo vineyard is the highest altitude vineyard in Mendoza's esteemed Gualtallary appellation. It is located at a jaw-dropping altitude of 5413 ft. above sea level -- a "high-risk but high-reward elevation that requires extreme viticulture." Intense and brooding but still impressively fresh with flavors of blueberry, blackberry, plum, violet, herbs, a touch of underbrush & meaty mushrooms.
in Argentina, Malbec, Wine, wine grapes, Winemaker | Permalink | Comments (0)
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Following in the footsteps of a legend might rattle some people, but Champagne Piper-Heidsieck's "newish" chief winemaker, Émilien Boutillat, is already laying the foundation for his own icon status.
Émilien's predecessor, Régis Camus, looms large over the Piper-Heidsieck legacy; he held the position for nearly three decades and was named Sparkling Winemaker of the Year a record eight times at the International Wine Challenge. Émilien was appointed chief winemaker in 2018 and is already poised to have a similar winning streak in the future; in 2021, he was honored as Sparkling Winemaker of the Year. At 35 years old, Émilien is the youngest chief winemaker in the history of Piper-Heidsieck. He has many decades ahead of him to make his mark.
A native of Champagne, born into a family of winegrowers, Émilien's passion for the world of wine started at a young age. In addition to the knowledge garnered from previous generations, he studied viticulture, enology, and agricultural engineering at the university level.
I recently had the pleasure of reconnecting with Émilien on his recent visit to New York City. Like many of us, Émilien is happy to be traveling the world again after more than two years of social distancing. And when Émilien shows up, he brings beautiful wines, charm, and good humor. He mentioned that improvisational theater is one of his hobbies. Émilien's ease at being bombarded by a trio of NYC wine writers with a never-ending stream of questions reflected his talent for thinking on his feet.
Founded in 1785, Piper-Heidsieck certainly needs no introduction among Champagne lovers. Their crisp and elegant Cuvée Brut NV ($66) is the House’s signature bubbly, known around the world for its consistent quality.
A blend of Pinot Noir (50-55%), Meunier (30-35%), and Chardonnay (15-20%), the grapes represent 100 crus from across Champagne. It is aged on the lees for a minimum of 24 months. Round and crisp with bright flavors of apple, pear, white peach, and that sultry touch of toasted bread, Cuvée Brut is a crowd pleaser that always adds a dash of ooh la la to the moment.
Cuvée Brut is Piper-Heidsieck's signature bubbly, but Essentiel ($70) shows how the House pushes forward with new expressions of Champagne. Pinot Noir (45%) also dominates this blend and is combined with Meunier (36%) and Chardonnay (19%). But, in addition to the slightly different percentages of each grape in the blend, Essentiel distinguishes itself from Cuvée Brut in some fundamental ways. The grape selection is limited to 50 crus instead of 100. It was aged about a year longer on the lees, for a minimum of 36 months, instead of 24. And it is crafted in an Extra-Brut style. Ripe and full, the slightly drier style of Champagne is still impressively rich with luscious flavors of plum, poached pear, and a kiss of honey mingled with brioche. This bubbly has the weight needed to pair with roast chicken, fish, and pork but still has impressive energy and verve.
Piper-Heidsieck Brut 2014 ($97) is a compelling snapshot of the vintage. 2014 was marked by a cool and rainy summer, but September sunshine provided the warm and dry conditions needed for the grapes to achieve a balance of ripeness and freshness. A blend of Pinot Noir (55%) and Chardonnay (45%), the grapes represent 19 crus, including 87% Grands and Premiers Crus. Aged on the lees a minimum of 5 years, 2014 emerges from the bottle sultry and bold, ready to steal the show. Pops of ginger, licorice, and toast bring an energetic and savory touch to the rich and ripe fruit. It is a fine example of a gastronomic style of Champagne that can pair beautifully with rich foods. Its crisp acidity makes it an especially good match with creamy foods. If you're looking for an inspired high-low pairing, try 2014 with lobster mac & cheese: Émilien was dubious initially, but this combination wowed him during our dinner.
I look forward to following Émilien's career as a winemaker; his blend of enthusiasm, deep roots in Champagne, technical know-how, and vision for the future point toward an impressive tenure at Piper-Heidsieck. “Sustainability is a key pillar today and for the future. In the vineyard and beyond. It's good for the planet and good for the people", said Emilien.
Don't worry, darlings; Piper-Heidsieck is in excellent hands.
in Champagne, French Wine, Wine, Winemaker | Permalink | Comments (0)
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I'm usually the one asking the questions, but Jason Haas, partner & general manager of Tablas Creek Vineyard, did a beautiful job interviewing me on Instagram Live. I had the pleasure of visiting Tablas Creek on my 2021 visit to Paso Robles, CA, and featured Jason and the winery in my article about the region for Food & Wine magazine.
And talk about a small world -- Jason and I went to high school together and shared many friends in common, but we didn't know each other until our 2021 meeting. I'm thrilled that wine has been the catalyst for our paths finally crossing. During the Instagram Live chat, Jason shared details about what's happening in the vineyards and cellars of Tablas Creek and gave me an update on their flock of sheep! Authentically committed to sustainability, Tablas Creek became the first Regenerative Organic Certified Vineyard in the United States.
Watch the video to learn more about Tablas Creek and for Jason's thoughtful questions about my career as a wine writer.
in California, Paso Robles, Winemaker | Permalink | Comments (0)
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Miguel Torres Maczassek, President, Familia Torres
If you’ve been reading my wine musings for a fair amount of time, it’s no secret that I love Spain and I have great affection and respect for family-owned wineries with a long history. So, it was an absolute joy and honor to chat on Instagram Live with Miguel Torres Maczassek, fifth-generation vintner and president of Familia Torres. In 2020, Familia Torres Winery celebrated their 150th anniversary, but their winemaking roots in Spain can be traced back to 1557!
Familia Torres produces quality wine from 9 DOs across Spain, and in Chile too, but our tasting focused on wines from Catalunya, where the family has deep roots. During our chat, we discussed the rich history of Familia Torres, their commitment to sustainability, high-altitude heroic viticulture, regenerative farming, and the important role monks played in winemaking in Catalunya. We tasted:
Varietat Recuperada “Forcada” 2019 ($74) – The Torres family placed ads in newspapers asking for help in locating pre-Phylloxera ancestral varieties. 60 varieties have been identified, including this Forcada from the northwest of Penedés. A very aromatic white wine, it has great body, texture, and acidity and flavors of chamomile, citrus, and a bit of honey and white peach. A real treat and treasure!
Purgatori 2017, Costers del Segre ($48) is a blend of Cariñena, Garnacha, and Syrah from a more inland area. It has concentration, but there’s a wonderful freshness that prevents it from being jammy.
Salmos 2017, Priorat ($42), is also a blend of Cariñena, Garnacha and Syrah. I love the Mediterranean character of this wine; you can really smell and taste the influence of mountain herbs and the sunny climate. The wine is bold but not overbearing with rich and juicy red and black berry flavors.
Watch the video for Miguel’s wonderful tasting notes and background info on the wines. Cheers!
in Amarone, Catalunya, Spain, Wine, Winemaker | Permalink | Comments (0)
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Enrique Tirado, Winemaker, Don Melchor
My recent Instagram Live chat with Enrique Tirado, winemaker for Don Melchor, reminded me that wine is one of the best ways to ponder the passage of time. Each vintage is a snapshot of that year. What was happening in the vineyard, the world, and even your own life? Drink and think!
I first experienced the charms of Don Melchor about five years ago when I shared a bottle of the 2014 vintage over dinner with some friends. It was love at first sip, and I have tasted every new vintage since then. And thanks to a retrospective tasting hosted by Enrique in New York City a few years ago, I've tasted almost every vintage of Don Melchor, including the debut 1987 vintage.
During our chat, we tasted the yet-to-be-released 2019 Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon ($120). One of Chile's most iconic wines, the second vintage of Don Melchor (1988), was the first Chilean wine to be named to Wine Spectator's Top 100, where it has placed nine times, including three placements in the Top 10.
In a world full of Cabernet Sauvignon, Don Melchor is something special. A terroir-driven wine, Don Melchor is crafted from grapes from the Puente Alto vineyard, in the Maipo Valley, at the foot of the Andes Mountains. The vineyard's 127 hectares are divided into seven plots that are partitioned into even smaller plots of 151 parcels. The 2019 vintage blends 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 2% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot from 150 parcels. For this reason, Enrique describes Don Melchor as not a single Cabernet Sauvignon but multiple expressions.
Enrique described this meticulous vineyard mapping, grape selection, and blending process in our chat. Each year, this precision in the vineyard and the cellar consistently yields a Don Melchor that is elegant, balanced, and a compelling snapshot of that specific vintage. What a beautiful way to document a year! Watch the video for Enrique's tasting notes and more details about the process for crafting Don Melchor.
in Cabernet Sauvignon, Chile , Wine, Winemaker | Permalink | Comments (0)
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I had the pleasure of hosting an Instagram Live session for Premiere Napa Valley Wine Week. Napa Valley winemakers craft their finest, most innovative and creative wines exclusively for Premiere Napa Valley. Produced in lots of as little as 60 to no more than 240 bottles, these wines are not normally offered from the winery and will never be replicated. Visit the Premiere Napa Valley website and learn how to build your collection with these rare wines.
To watch my interview with winemakers Paula Kornell (Paula Kornell Sparkling Wine), Wesley Steffens (Vineyard 7 & 8) and Jim Close (Gamble Family Vineyards) and learn about the special wines they created for Premiere Napa Valley, click here or scroll down!
in Napa, Winemaker | Permalink | Comments (0)
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Sharing a bottle of Champagne with your beloved is always a good idea. And if the bubbly being poured is Rare Champagne Millésime 2008 ($210), the odds of your love being reciprocated may increase! Ok, maybe I'm exaggerating a little, but the exquisite nature of Rare 2008 can warm a cold heart and excite a jaded palate. True to its name, only twelve exceptional vintages of Rare Brut and Rosé Millésime have been declared since its debut in 1976.
Since 2004, Régis Camus has been honored eight times as the Sparkling Winemaker of the Year by the International Wine Challenge.
The release of a new Rare vintage is always highly anticipated, and Rare 2008 lives up to the exceptional quality of its predecessors. Award-winning cellarmaster Régis Camus considers Rare a portrait of the vintage. He always selects one word to describe each Rare vintage, and Camus has declared 2008 as infinite. "For me, Rare Millésime 2008 embodies the infinite, with its unlimited, rich, constantly present youth and freshness. These sensations intertwine on the palate in a constant cycle of flavors, each more precise and harmonious than the one before. While already a pleasure to drink, this vintage has now acquired an exceptional complexity and mineral character, punctuated with exotic spices notes that promise infinite longevity."
Over the years, I've had the honor of tasting several Rare vintages with Camus, and his passion for Champagne lights up the room. This year's tasting was virtual, but that did not diminish the excitement of the occasion. For Régis, Rare is a labor of love that melds his respect and appreciation for each vintage with his talent and technical prowess. Presented in a black bottle that is elegantly adorned with a gleaming gold tiara, the esthetics evoke the style of Rare Champagne: opulent yet tasteful, dramatic but balanced.
Making quality Champagne is no easy feat and requires patience. Rare takes no shortcuts and pushes the envelope. For example, most Champagne houses released their 2008 Brut vintage in 2018, but Régis consistently tasted and evaluated Rare as it aged. Once it met his exacting standards, he declared Rare 2008 ready for release in 2021.
A blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, Rare 2008 strikes a perfect balance between freshness and complexity. It shows the richness and nuance that comes with aged Champagne without sacrificing energy and balance. A beautiful sip!
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How could I not be intrigued by Granbazán Albariño Don Álvaro de Bazán 2015 ($50)? This single-vineyard and six-year-old Albariño from Rias Baixas elegantly proves that Albariño can have aging power. We’re all familiar with the fresh charms of young Albariño, but when these wines are carefully crafted with aging in mind, they’re something special. Sourced from a single plot, the Albariño grapes were fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel and aged on the lees for 36 months. The flirty, fresh, and pretty essence of Albariño remains, but extended aging takes the flavors and textures to the next level. Peach, citrus, salinity, honeysuckle, chalky minerality, round and luscious – this vino is pretty fantastic.
I also recommend Granbazán Etiqueta Verde 2020 ($18). This classic expression of a young Rias Baixas Albariño is an elegant thirst quencher on a steamy day.
Watch my IG Live chat with Bodegas Granbazán winemaker Diego Ríos to learn more about their wonderful wines and Rias Baixas.
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“Don Melchor is for me the constant search for the best expression of each of the vines within the vineyard, in order to achieve the beauty of the balance of the terroir of Puente Alto in each vintage. That is my true obsession. I use technology as a tool to achieve greater knowledge, but with this, observing and feeling each plant and wine is what allows us to achieve the perfect balance in each vintage." - Enrique Tirado, Winemaker & General Manager, Viña Don Melchor
Is there a wine in your life that makes your heart skip a beat when a new vintage is released? I was introduced to Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon five years ago and it was love at first sip. At that time, I had no idea that Don Melchor was considered a Chilean wine icon. I grabbed the bottle to share with friends, and we were all mesmerized. Based on my tasting of the newly released 2018 vintage, my affection for this game-changing Chilean wine shows no signs of wavering.
First created in 1987, the second vintage of Don Melchor (1988) was the first Chilean wine named to Wine Spectator's Top 100 Wines of the World. Since then, it has placed on this prestigious list nine times, including three placements in the Top 10.
In a world full of Cabernet Sauvignon, what makes Don Melchor so unique? To answer this question, I defer to Enrique Tirado, the winemaker and general manager of Viña Don Melchor: "Don Melchor is not a single Cabernet Sauvignon, but multiple expressions."
The grapes for Don Melchor are sourced from seven parcels in the Puente Alto Vineyard in the upper Maipo Valley, at the foot of the Andes Mountains. The next steps reflect Tirado's meticulous approach to crafting Don Melchor: the seven parcels are harvested independently and more than 150 micro-vinifications are made in the cellar, they are then tasted and selected for the final composition. No single component represents more than 60% or 70% of the blend. Crafting Don Melchor is truly is a labor of love for Tirado and his team. Their precision and passion are reflected in Don Melchor's elegance, authenticity, and consistency that still respects and expresses vintage variation.
Tirado has crafted Don Melchor since 1995 and he said, “Don Melchor 2018 manages to produce that unique sensation you only get from great wines and great vintages”. The ideal weather conditions yielded grapes of exceptional quality. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (91%), Cabernet Franc (5%), Merlot (3%), and Petit Verdot (1%), Don Melchor 2018 ($120) is bold, balanced, refined but exuberant. It is complex but not off-putting. Vibrant and robust, it does not cross the line towards jammy vulgarity. Flavors of pristine red and dark berries, fine tannins, hints of herbs, and a kiss of earth; they're all in the glass.
My only regret is that maybe I sipped 2018 too soon. 2018 is impressive now, but Don Melchor tends to age like a dream, becoming more captivating over time. I've tasted 2017 a few times, including side-by-side with 2018, and that additional year in the bottle has added even more nuance and lushness. I know the already marvelous 2018 will be even more dazzling over time.
PS – I interviewed Enrique Tirado a few months ago on Instagram Live, and he does a beautiful job describing the philosophy, process, and style of Don Melchor.
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“I am an artisan. What does it mean to be an artisan? It means to have my own project, that I like to do in my own way. The process starts in the vineyards, that is the most important for us, through the cellar until arriving in the market. My wish is to be able to give inspiration to my collaborators.” - Angelo Gaja
Could winemaker Angelo Gaja be the antidote for Zoom fatigue? When an 81-years-young Angelo Gaja appeared on my computer screen from his vineyard in Piedmont, surrounded by yellow mustard flowers and imitating the buzzing sounds of the bees that are an essential part of the vineyard’s vitality, it was a welcome shock to my system. Gaja’s wines are iconic, but a recent virtual tasting hosted by Wine.com, offered a rare opportunity to hear from the man behind the label. In wine circles, he is a legend, but in his heart, Angelo Gaja is an artisan.
With a rich history that spans five generations, Gaja’s wines have a powerful voice, and each bottle tells a story of tradition, innovation, land, family, and passion. During the Wine.com tasting, Angelo and his children, Gaia and Giovanni, amplified the message of their wines with heartwarming anecdotes and a guided tasting of three wines: Ca’Marcanda Magari from Bolgheri, Pieve Santa Restituta Brunello di Montalcino, and Gaja DaGromis Barolo from Piedmont.
Angelo spoke of how he teaches his children to think differently and follow their passion, and Gaia and Giovanni have certainly taken his example to heart. Wine isn’t just a business for the Gaja family; it’s at the core of their being. As Angelo said, winemakers are blessed to have a foot in nature and a foot in the world. Thanks to the wines of Gaja, I can have a foot in Manhattan and a foot in Italy.
If you want to take your palate on an adventure and feel inspired by the Gaja family’s words of wisdom, watch the video on Wine.com and pair your viewing with the wines featured in the tasting.
The tasting set, offered at a discounted price of $229.99, includes the wines listed below. Tasting notes courtesy of Wine.com.
Gaja Ca'Marcanda Magari
The Gaja Ca'Marcanda Magari is a glowing intense color. The nose is polished, refined, focused and expressive, notes of eucalyptus, herbs and pine. Fine-grained tannins surround a sleek core of black cherry, blackberry and licorice flavors, with fresh nuances gliding through a long-lasting and expressive finish. Blend: 60% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot.
Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta Brunello di Montalcino
Deep garnet color. Charming notes of juniper berries, licorice and sweet wood greet your nose. This Brunello has a very clear expression of sweet and ripe fruit, opening on the palate, with notes of spice and earthy aromatic herbs. This wine has remarkable texture, mouth-filling fruit and a very good length.
Gaja DaGromis Barolo
Gaja DaGromis Barolo is an intense red color. Aromas of violets, rose petals and a hint of white pepper combine with rich, red currant, licorice and balanced oak. The initial aromatics flow across the palate with freshness and harmonious complexity, revealing juicy red orange and red grapefruit. The classic licorice and mineral austerity is buttressed by oak and noticeable tannins, which soften as the wine ages.
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Eduardo Jordàn Villalobos, Winemaker, Miguel Torres Chile
If you're a fan of Spanish wines, Miguel Torres is a very familiar name; the family-owned winery's legacy in Spain spans 150 years. Not content with making wine exclusively in their homeland, in the 1970s, they set their sights on the Southern Hemisphere, and Miguel Torres Chile was founded in 1979. Miguel Torres was the first foreign winery to arrive in Chile, bringing know-how, passion, innovation, and a respect for Chilean culture. I recently had the pleasure of chatting on Instagram Live with their winemaker Eduardo Jordàn Villalobos.
We also sipped Miguel Torres Chile VIGNO Vignadores de Carignan ($20.99). Crafted from old bush vines that are at least 30-years-old, it delivers lots of character at a great price point. Rustic but elegant, it is big but balanced with rich fruit flavors, hints of herbs, subtle oak, and bright acidity.
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Alexandre Relvas, Chief Winemaker & Co-Owner, Casa Relvas (Alentejo, Portugal)
In 2018, I embarked on my first and only trip to Portugal to visit wineries in Alentejo and it was magical. But after chatting with fifth generation vintner Alexandre Relvas on Instagram Live, I know that my next journey to Alentejo would be incomplete without a visit to Casa Relvas. You can watch our conversation and tasting on IGTV, YouTube, or by clicking the video below.
During our conversation, Alexandre described Alentejo's rich winemaking history and how wines made in amphora are an integral part of the region's legacy. We tasted two wines that display Casa Relvas's commitment to innovation and tradition: Art.Terra Amphora Red 2020 ($22.99) and Herdade de Sāo Miguel Escolha dos Enólogos 2019 ($22.99).
As the names indicates, Art.Terra Amphora Red was crafted in amphora. These large clay vessels, called Talhas de Barro in Portuguese, can be traced back to the Romans and have been used for winemaking in Alentejo for more than 2,000 years. A blend of 50% Aragonez, 40% Trincadeira, and 10% Moreto; Art.Terra is bright and fresh with hints of herbs and earth.
Aged in French oak barrels for 9 months, Herdade de Sāo Miguel Escolha dos Enólogos is a blend of 50% Alicante Bouschet, 30% Touriga Franca, and 20% Touriga Nacional. It is a rich and round wine with vibrant fruit, floral, and spice flavors. Not familiar with Portuguese wine grapes? In the video, Alexandre shares wonderful descriptions of each variety and what they contribute to the blend. He also describes how amphora impacts the style of the wine.
in Alentejo, Portugal, Wine, Winemaker | Permalink | Comments (0)
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Manfred Ing, Winemaker, Querciabella
Hopping a flight overseas remains a daydream during these long days of social distancing, but thankfully traveling the world through wine is a reality. Recently, I took a virtual journey to beautiful Tuscany through the wines of Querciabella with winemaker Manfred Ing. Watch our Instagram Live conversation on IGTV, YouTube, or by clicking the video below.
Founded in 1974 with a single hectare vineyard in Tuscany, today Querciabella has more than 100 hectares in Chianti Classico and Maremma. In 1988, Querciabella converted to organic viticulture and in 2000 they introduced a 100% plant‑based approach to biodynamics that forbids the use of animal products in their vineyards or cellars. During our conversation, Manfred shared Querciabella's winemaking philosophy, a definition of biodynamic winemaking, and his fascinating journey from his native South Africa to becoming a winemaker in Tuscany.
We tasted two Querciabella wines: Chianti Classico 2017 ($30) and Camartina 2015 ($150). A very classic and pure expression of Chianti Classico, the Sangiovese grapes were sourced from Greve in Chianti, Radda in Chianti, and Gaiole in Chianti. This tapestry of grapes from unique terroirs adds complexity and nuance to this very fresh and pretty wine. Camartina has been the estate's signature Super Tuscan since 1981. A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Sangiovese, it is only produced in the best vintages. Rich and balanced, Camartina will age beautifully; a worthy splurge.
in Biodynamic, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chianti Classico, Italy, Sangiovese, Winemaker | Permalink | Comments (0)
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"Wine, just as a guitar, requires discipline and care, and above all a sensitive soul to interpret them.”
Marcelo Pelleriti, winemaker, Bodega Monteviejo
I suspected that my Instagram Live chat with Marcelo Pelleriti would be no ordinary virtual wine tasting, but I certainly didn't expect it to end with a live guitar and vocal performance. He's going to be a tough act to follow. I'm still smiling.
A true renaissance man, Marcelo is not only one of Argentina's most celebrated winemakers, he's made a name for himself in France too. Marcelo makes wine in both countries, and his 2010 Château La Violette Pomerol earned him an astounding accolade -- the first Latin American winemaker awarded 100 points from influential wine critic Robert Parker. Marcelo is also a talented musician and the creator & driving force behind Mendoza’s annual Wine Rock music festival.
Watch our conversation and tasting by clicking the video above, or visiting IGTV or YouTube. Stay to the very end, and you'll be awarded with live guitar and vocal performances from Marcelo (Hurt by Johnny Cash) and his bandmate Matias Torres (Is This Love That I'm Feeling by Whitesnake).
Marcelo has many roles in the wine world and can transition from a Ramones t-shirt to a dapper suit with ease. During our conversation, we focused on Marcelo's position as winemaker with Bodega Monteviejo in Mendoza. Located at the foot of the Andes Mountains in the Uco Valley, construction of Bodega Monteviejo began in early 2001 and the first harvest took place in 2002. Yes, Malbec is Argentina's flagship wine, but Marcelo wants the world to appreciate Malbec's full range of expression, its capacity to convey terroir, and long-aging ability.
During our chat, we tasted Monteviejo Petite Fleur Malbec 2016 ($24.99) and Monteviejo Petite Fleur Blend 2016 ($24.99). Both wines were fresh, full without being bulky, fruit-forward but not jammy, with impressive vitality and balance. The Malbec sings clearly of the old vines and the terroir of the high-altitude Uco Valley vineyard from where the grapes were sourced. The Petite Fleur blend of 52% Malbec, 33% Merlot, 5% Syrah, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon pays homage to Marcelo's Bordeaux influences, without sacrificing the essence of Mendoza. And even the name Petite Fleur has a musical connection - Marcelo told me that it was inspired by the song of the same name by jazz musician Sidney Bechet.
My conversation with Marcelo reminded me that even in tough times, wine and music can lift our spirits. Pour a glass, play some tunes, and count your blessings. And rock out when the mood hits you!
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Jesús Artajona Serrano has been the winemaker at ENATE since it was founded in 1992.
Traveling by trains, planes, and automobiles may be a risky proposition in this age of social distancing, but you can still explore the world through wine. I recently took a joyful journey to Somontano, Spain, with ENATE winemaker Jesús Artajona Serrano on Instagram Live.
image courtesy of Bodega ENATE
Somontano is located in northeastern Spain, south of the Pyrenees, on the natural border with France. I first visited Somontano in 2017 and have been there three times; I fell in love with the wines, the landscapes, and the people. Somontano has a rich winemaking history, and unlike many Spanish regions that are closely associated with a specific indigenous variety, Somontano has gained acclaim for their prowess with international varieties.
Click the video above, or watch my conversation with Jesús on IGTV or YouTube. Founded in 1992, ENATE is a modern and environmentally friendly winery, and celebrating art is an integral part of ENATE's vision; they describe themselves as the place "Where Art and Wine Become One." ENATE's wine bottles are adorned with labels designed by well-known contemporary artists, and the winery has an impressive art gallery. During my chat with Jesús, we tasted the 2019 vintage of ENATE Chardonnay 234 ($13.99) and 2015 ENATE Crianza Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon ($15).
When asked what foods to pair with the wines, Jesùs said that the most important thing is "a good partner in front of you, in a good ambiance, and conviviality." We also discussed ENATE's commitment to environmentally-friendly winemaking, and Jesús stated that "sustainability is not a virtue, it is a duty." And what inspired Jesús to become a winemaker? Jesús had planned on a career in chemistry, but when he was twenty-years-old, he fell in love with a beautiful young French woman and decided to study enology in Bordeaux. Chemistry of a different sort!
Tasting Notes
2019 ENATE Chardonnay 234 ($13.99)
Label by artist Pepe Cerdá
Very aromatic with notes of green apple, ripe peach, and a hint of tropical pineapple, and guava. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, it is impressively rich and round without sacrificing crispness. Bright acidity and a hint of salinity. A delicious and well-balanced Chardonnay.
2015 ENATE Crianza Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon ($15)
Label by artist Victór Mira
Ripe red fruit flavors on the nose and palate with a hint of smoke and spice. Full and juicy with a touch of warm toast. The blend is 70% Tempranillo, which was aged in American oak for nine months, and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, which was aged in French oak for nine months before being blended together.
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image courtesy of Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery
"I strongly believe in the Russian River Valley's capacity to consistently produce world class wines. The key is cool breezes and fog from the nearby Pacific Ocean blanket."
-Theresa Heredia, Winemaker, Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery
When does a wine cross the threshold from being good to very good, or even great? I don't seek perfection in wines because I'm not certain it exists. And let's be honest, barring technical flaws that render a wine undrinkable, perfect wines, just like self-righteous people, can be a bit boring. For me, a wine goes beyond the ordinary when it is intriguing. I'm not sure if the art of intrigue is taught at winemaking school, but intriguing wines don't just taste good; they captivate you. Each sip sparks an emotion, a question, a revelation. Winemaker Theresa Heredia, of Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, certainly knows a thing or two about crafting intriguing wines.
When Gary Farrell founded his eponymous winery in 1982, Sonoma's Russian River Valley was not officially an AVA. He was indeed a pioneer in crafting small-lot single-vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Theresa Heredia has been at the helm of winemaking at Gary Farrell Winery since 2012 and carries on this legacy.
Theresa's studies honed her scientific approach to winemaking: she earned a bachelor's degree in biochemistry from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo, and was a Ph.D. candidate in chemistry, with an emphasis in enology, at the University of California, Davis. However, she opted out of the Ph.D. program to pursue hands-on experience as a winemaker.
image courtesy of Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery
I recently tasted several Gary Farrell single-vineyard Pinot Noir wines in a Zoom webinar led by Theresa. Her scientific prowess and commitment to precision were apparent, but Theresa also understands that there's an ineffable dimension to winemaking that adds a bit of magic.
I believe that when crafting single-vineyard wines, a cookie-cutter approach must be avoided. For the single-vineyard designation to mean something beyond a mere geographical description, the wine must convey that terroir's unique qualities. It should capture the essence of the variety as it manifests itself in that vineyard. Gary Farrell's single-vineyard Pinot Noir meets that criteria.
Gary Farrell has an impressive selection of single-vineyard Pinot Noir, and I've highlighted three that I found particularly intriguing. One of the reasons why winemakers worldwide are enamored with Pinot Noir is its capacity to express terroir transparently. Tasting these Gary Farrell wines side-by-side is a priceless master class in better understanding how a well-crafted Pinot Noir stays true to the variety's character and conveys a unique sense of place and time. My tasting focused on 2016 vintages, but the Gary Farrell website features many 2017 vintages.
Tasting notes courtesy of Gary Farrell Winery
2016 Gary Farrell Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir ($70) is a fantastic introduction to the Gary Farrell style. “This Bien Nacido Pinot Noir is like an elixir of exotic red fruit, exuding aromas of Açaí, Goji, pomegranate, dried stems, cardamom, powdered ginger and star anise, all balanced by an earthy under layer of dried stems, toasted cedar and sandalwood. The array of palate flavors is simultaneously fruit-driven and savory, exploding with hints of wild strawberry, raspberry, Mangosteen and crushed herbs, all wrapped up in a blanket of velvety grape tannins. The juicy acidity creates a persistent, tangy sensation, while the spicy oak and wood tannins add a polishing finish to this beautiful wine.”
If you really want to geek out, taste 2016 Gary Farrell Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Noir ($55) and 2016 Gary Farrell Hallberg Vineyard-Dijon Clones Pinot Noir ($60) side-by-side to see how different clones respond to the same terroir. The Hallberg is described as “Lush aromas of dark cherry, currants, and cola naturally follow the deep ruby hue of this wine in glass. Dried mushrooms, black tea, and an array of fresh violets, rose petals, and a hint of peppermint provide complexity and intrigue. Exceptional palate weight coupled with a tremendous concentration of fruit flavors and zesty acidity deliver a balanced package of power and finesse.”
And my favorite of the three, the Hallberg Vineyard-Dijon Clones is described as “A captivating bouquet of savory herbs and spice introduce this complex offering from the Hallberg Vineyard. Generous notes of white pepper, black tea, cloves and tobacco leaf are in the forefront but slowly give way to the classic red fruit aromas of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Flavors of dried cranberries and fresh raspberries entice the palate while subtle tannins from lightly toasted French oak barrels lend finesse. Exceptionally soft and approachable, this is wine is impeccably balanced from start to finish.”
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Enrique Tirado, Winemaker, Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon
image courtesy of Viña Don Melchor
With so much turmoil in the world, I am grateful that I get to escape for a bit and travel virtually through wine. I don't take it for granted. I recently had the pleasure of tasting on Instagram Live with the esteemed and extremely talented Enrique Tirado, winemaker for Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon (Puente Alto Vineyard, Chile).
When I met Enrique last year, the world was a very different place. Thank goodness for the elegant consistency of Don Melchor. First created in 1987, the second vintage of Don Melchor (1988) was the first Chilean wine to be named to Wine Spectator's Top 100. It has since placed nine times on this prestigious ranking of wines from around the world, including three placements in the Top 10.
image courtesy of Viña Don Melchor
Don Melchor’s historic Puente Alto Vineyard at the foot of the Andes Mountains is grouped into seven blocks that are further divided into more than 150 parcels. Each parcel offers a unique expression that varies from year to year. Enrique methodically selects from these parcels to create a complex but harmonious tapestry of wine. As Enrique said, “Don Melchor is not a single Cabernet Sauvignon, but multiple expressions.”
During my chat with Enrique, we tasted the 30th vintage release Don Melchor 2017 and the 2016 vintage – both retail for about $120. You can watch our conversation by clicking the video above, on IGTV, or YouTube.
Beautiful red fruit flavors, soft tannins, and impressive balance are Don Melchor trademarks. 2017 is a bigger wine with riper fruit flavors and some hints of black fruit, espresso, and spice. 2016 is not as bold, but its precision and purity of expression make it absolutely spectacular – it sings in the glass.
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Daniel Pi, Chief Winemaker, Trapiche
image courtesy of Trapiche
Whenever someone asks what sparked my interest in wine and led me on my current path as a chronicler and enthusiastic student of fermented grapes, I confess that I struggle to offer a short and simple answer. Like many of us, a collection of past experiences shaped my current reality. But if I have to pinpoint one moment that gave me a firm push towards wine, it was meeting winemaker Daniel Pi of Trapiche in 2009.
That fateful day marked the first time I sat with a winemaker and tasted wines they had created. I was captivated as I listened to Daniel speak passionately about Trapiche's vineyards in Mendoza (Argentina), the influence of the Andes on the Malbec grapes, and how barrels shape the flavor profile of the wines. At that moment, I realized how much I didn't know about wine, and I left that meeting with Daniel, inspired to learn more.
It's hard to believe that eleven years have passed since that meeting, but a few months ago, I finally had the chance to tell Daniel the impact he had made in my life. Trapiche's USA-based public relations agency reconnected us for a tasting over Zoom. Founded in 1883, Trapiche is a household name in Argentina, and Daniel has been their chief winemaker for almost 18 years. Yes, he's a big deal, but Daniel was as down-to-earth and engaging as I remembered.
image courtesy of Trapiche
During our conversation, we tasted two of Trapiche's single-vineyard Malbec wines -- Finca Coletto 2017 and Finca Ambrosia 2017. Created to honor Trapiche's grape growers, these special bottles retail for about $50 each. The Coletto and Ambrosia vineyards are only five miles apart, but because of differences in soil types and micro-climates, the grapes produce two very different expressions of Malbec.
The Malbec vines for Coletto are about 50 years old. Juicy with soft tannins and a hint of spice, Daniel recommends Coletto as a great match with pasta.
The Malbec vines for Ambrosia were planted about 18 years ago. More mineral and chalky with a hint of herbs, this Malbec pairs perfectly with a juicy steak.
For people who mistakenly think that Malbec is a one-dimensional wine, these terroir-driven wines are important reminders of Malbec's capacity for many different expressions. Daniel says that when people ask him what's next for Argentina after Malbec, he says, "More Malbec!"
Trapiche will always be a sentimental favorite, but there's a reason why they are one of Argentina's most esteemed producers -- they make great wine! If you want to better understand the full range of Malbec, Trapiche's extensive portfolio features well-crafted wines in a range of styles and price points. And I look forward to the day that I can visit their winery in Mendoza and share a bottle of Trapiche Malbec with Daniel.
in Argentina, Malbec, Mendoza, Veneto, Wine, wine grapes, Winemaker | Permalink | Comments (0)
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Isabel Galindo, winemaker for Las Moradas de San Martín
My recent Instagram Live chat with Isabel Galindo, winemaker for Las Moradas de San Martín, inspired me to give her a nickname: La Reina de Garnacha (Queen of Garnacha.) Isabel makes Garnacha that sings in the glass. There's nothing generic about the wines of Las Moradas. Made from old-vine Garnacha, with some vines more than 100-years-old, the wines of Las Moradas tell a story of terroir and winemaking that respects nature. Located just one hour from Madrid, Las Moradas is an oasis that feels a world away from the hustle and bustle of city life. I visited Las Moradas in 2017 and it is a treasure.
Isabel describes Las Moradas Garnacha as "wines that grow"; they may seem a bit timid in the beginning, but they open and reveal the fullness of their personality as you sip. Watch our conversation on IGTV, YouTube, or below to learn more about the wines of Las Moradas de San Martín, Isabel's tasting notes, and her pairing suggestions. Hint: you may want to get some delicious Jamón Ibérico!
During our chat, we tasted Senda 2016 ($15.99) and Initio 2013 ($12.99). Don't let the affordable prices fool you; these organically-farmed old-vine Garnacha wines have integrity and really over-deliver. Senda is fresher and younger, but hints of herbs and a perceptible minerality add an elegant structure to its bright red fruit flavors. Initio takes it up a notch; it is richer and more complex, with layers of red & black fruit, herbs, licorice, graphite and cocoa, but it is not a heavy wine, and lively acidity keeps Initio soaring. Tasting them side-by-side is a delicious lesson in detecting the nuances of wine and understanding the expressive range of Garnacha.
in Garnacha, Space, Spain, Wine, Winemaker, Women in Wine | Permalink | Comments (0)
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There's more than one way to sparkle! The next time you're craving a glass of bubbly, pop the cork on a bottle of Rotari Trentodoc. Crafted from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes grown in steeply terraced vineyards from Trentino's valleys and hills in the heart of the Dolomites, Rotari is an elegant expression of the Italian Alps. Produced using the Metodo Classico, the bubbles in Rotari, and all Trentodoc, are created by a second fermentation in the bottle.
Rotari Brut Trentodoc 2014 ($19.99) is the perfect introduction to the Rotari style. Crisp and refreshing, the essence of Chardonnay shines through in each sip. This bubbly aged on the lees for 24 months and is imbued with wonderful yeasty notes. A really great value!
I recently had the pleasure of tasting Rotari Trentodoc during an Instagram Live chat with winemaker Maurizio Maurizi. During our chat, we sipped Rotari Platinum Label Brut Trentodoc 2014, Rotari Rosé Trentodoc 2014, and Rotari Flavio Riserva Trentodoc 2010. Watch the video above, on YouTube, or IGTV to learn more about Rotari Trentodoc and for Maurizio's tasting notes and pairing suggestions.
Rotari Brut Rosé Trentodoc 2014 ($19.99) is a fresh blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with added texture and complexity from 24 months of aging on the lees. Pretty to the eye and on the palate!
Only produced in exceptional vintages. Rotari Flavio Riserva Trentodoc 2010 ($64.99) shows the stunning aging power of a beautifully crafted Trentodoc. 100% Chardonnay, the wine was aged for 6 years on the lees and wows the palate with a vibrant tapestry of fruit, nut, and spice flavors. Very impressive!
in Italy, Sparkling Wine, Trentodoc, Wine, Winemaker | Permalink | Comments (0)
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