Wine With Wanda

It's a Family Affair: Second Generation Oregon Winemakers Unite to Create a Limited-Edition Pinot Noir

 

Meet 2GV (Second Generation Vintners)! Alison Sokol Blosser, Adam Campbell, Luisa Ponzi, Maria Ponzi, Anna Campbell, and Alex Sokol Blosser.

No 2GV isn't a hot new pop band, it's the acronym for Second Generation Vintners -- an exciting collaboration between three of Oregon's most respected wineries. Known as the Oregon Originals,  Elk Cove Vineyards, Ponzi Vineyards, and Sokol Blosser Winery were all started in the Willamette Valley in the 1970's with a desire to produce world-class Pinot Noir. By all accounts they have succeeded. Not only has each winery garnered acclaim for their wines but they have also played a pivotal role in elevating Oregon's reputation as a prestigious winemaking region. Today each winery is being led by second generation siblings. Yes, the wine business is competitive but along with winemaking and management skills, the 2GV parents also imparted valuable lessons about the importance of collaboration.  

The final blend of the 2GV Oregon Originals Pinot Noir Cuvée is 36% Ponzi, 32% Elk Cove, and 32% Sokol Bosser. 300 cases were bottled, half of which were donated to charity and the remaining bottles are available for sale at $100 each. Click here to purchase. 

How many winemakers would be willing to share grapes from their finest vineyard with a competitor? That's exactly what the 2GV team did. Sharing their very best Pinot Noir grapes with each other, the 2GV team collaborated to create a single Pinot Noir wine.


A view of the individual Pinot Noir wines created by each 2GV member. Each of these 9 wines was then considered for the final blend. 

I was really impressed by the camaraderie between winemakers Luisa Ponzi, Adam Campbell, and Alex Sokol Blosser. It shows tremendous faith, respect, and humility to share your finest grapes with another winemaker, give them the freedom to process those grapes in their own way, and then come together as a group to honestly evaluate each other’s efforts.

At the end of that daunting process, the winemakers worked together to come up with a harmonious blend. The 2017 2GV Oregon Originals Pinot Noir Cuvée captures a bit of each winery’s essence to create something unique, elegant, and delicious. The wine is fresh and vibrant with intense red fruit flavors, lively acidity, and a precise structure that will age beautifully. Visit the 2GV website to learn more. 

And if you want to learn more about wines from Oregon, May is Oregon Wine Month. Events include the Oregon Wine Trail tasting in NYC on May 6, 2019 at the Altman Building. The cost is $85 per person and the impressive list of participating wineries includes 2GV member, Elk Cove Vineyards. 

Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico: Intriguing New Wines from the Iconic Frescobaldi Family

When your family has been making wine for 700 years, no one would fault you for sticking to the tried and true wines that have earned you endless accolades. But that's not the Frescobaldi way. True icons of Tuscan culture, the Frescobaldi family has an exemplary commitment to crafting wines  that are authentic expressions of the terroir of their seven estates. There's no shortage of beautiful Italian wines but even the most jaded drinker gets a bit giddy when they see the name Frescobaldi on the bottle. 

"Great wine is about the site. That is the step from where you can start for the highest level." - Marchese Lamberto Frescobaldi
(If you have sharp eyes, you'll notice that in this photo Marchese Lamberto Frescobaldi is holding a bottle of their award-winning Montesodi from their Castello Nipozzano estate. I ran into the Marchese at the Tre Bicchieri tasting and captured this image.)

I confess to a certain amount of professional giddiness when I was I invited to a luncheon in NYC  hosted by Marchese Lamberto Frescobaldi to taste the first vintage (2015) of their Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva. After leasing the property for a few years, Frescobaldi purchased Castello di San Donato in Perano in 2017. Located in the heart of Chianti Classico, Tenuta Perano is a natural amphitheater with ideal conditions for growing healthy and expressive grapes. 52 of the estate's 250 hectares are planted with vines. 

image courtesy of Frescobaldi

Not only did Frescobaldi select a prime site with the acquisition of Tenuta Perano, but how auspicious that 2015 was the first vintage released. The Marchesi shares the sentiment of many Italian wine experts and aficionados when he declared that "2015 was a great vintage."

The Tenuta Perano wines are a great match with red meat dishes like this steak with roasted potatoes that we enjoyed at Il Gattopardo restaurant in NYC. 

Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico DOCG 2015 ($25) is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% complementary grapes. Aged for 24 months in barrique and steel, it doesn't sacrifice freshness for richness but instead shows elegant balance between the two. Flavors of dark cherry, brambly berries, with a subtle hint of eucalyptus, thyme and pink pepper make this vino a great match with meat sauces, red meat, and aged cheeses. 

Aged for 24 months in Slavonian oak barrels, Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG ($35) displays more complexity and nuance but is still quite approachable. 95% Sangiovese with a kiss of Merlot, it is robust yet graceful with more noticeable but well-integrated tannins. Delicious now, its flavors of rich cherry, blackberry and plum with a touch of warm spice and earth will age beautifully. 

It is easy to feel intimidated by wines as renowned as Frescobaldi's so I applaud them for making their Tenuta Perano wines so accessibly priced. Their superb quality truly over-delivers at this price point. A sip of Frescobaldi is a tangible connection with Tuscan history and culture. And that is truly priceless. 

 

Blue Skies, Pink Wines, and Red Hot Passion: The Captivating Wines & People of Provence

In a world where few places live up to the hype, Provence elegantly exceeds it. From the breathtaking natural beauty of lavender fields in the Luberon to the glitzy yacht culture of St. Tropez, there really isn't one Provence. A captivating tapestry of diverse landscapes, moods, and people; wine is the perfect vehicle for discovering Provence's many charms. 

image courtesy of Wines of Provence

It would not be exaggerating to deem Provence the rosé capital of the world. It is the only region to dedicate 90% of their wine production to rosé. The United States is second only to France in consumption of rosé and 46% of Provençal rosé wines, an astounding 57.5 million bottles, were exported to the USA last year. The allure of Provence's pale pink wines fueled a global rosé sensation. Not just for summer, the desire to drink rosé all day has crescendoed to rosé all year for wine lovers. The runaway success of rosé from Provence has inspired many winemakers around the globe to emulate the region's pale pink style of wine. Others may succeed in crafting rosé wines but only Provence can lay claim to being the true originators of the rosé lifestyle. 

The pale pink wines of Provence are the best known but at the Rosé Research Center we explored the six main shades of Provençal rosé.

A recent visit to Provence as a guest of Wines of Provence was a refreshing deep dive into the region's wine culture. While a fresh and flirty style of rosé put wines from Provence on the map, wines from the region are actually produced in a myriad of styles, including aged rose that spends time in oak and sparkling. And yes, Provence also produces red & white wines. We tend to think of Provence as a monolith but the region actually has three wine appellations that produce very distinctive styles of wine: Côtes de Provence, Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence, and Coteaux Varois en Provence. 

Visiting every winery in Provence would be an enjoyable feat of endurance but nearly impossible for most of us. But La Maison des Vins Côtes de Provence makes it easy to taste wines from almost every winery in the region. The boutique features 800 Provençal wines and they host informative tastings and workshops. During my visit, sommelier David Hospital mapped out the Côtes de Provence winemaking region. I always say that wine makes geography much more interesting! 

Côtes de Provence is the largest and most famous of Provence's wine appellations and produces more than 70% of the AOC's wines. Rosé accounts for 90% of Côtes de Provence wines. Spanning more than 20,000 hectares, the terroir of Côtes de Provence is so diverse that it is further divided into 4 terroir designations: Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire, Côtes de Provence Fréjus, Côtes de Provence La Londe, and Côtes de Provence Pierrefeu. Don't get overwhelmed by the names, just remember that these designations indicate that the wines have a certain typicity because of shared terroir and climate. 

 Ooh la la, Saint-Tropez. I discovered that you don't need a yacht to feel like a high roller in this glitzy fishing village. The affordable ferry ride is pretty fantastic. 

I love rosé year-round but there's no denying that the wine has a special allure in the warmer months. As rosé season kicks into high gear and a delightful cloud of pink descends upon us, it is important to remember the people behind the wine. Rosé may seem easy breezy but it takes skill and dedication to make quality rosé. As I look back on my trip, the only thing more captivating than the beauty of Provence's landscapes and mouthwatering food & wine, were the people that I met. Generous with their time and wine, it became clear to me people in Provence have mastered the art of living well. 

Magali Combard is cool, there's no doubt about it. After visiting her family's Domaine Figuière winery, I'm convinced that Magali's charisma and can-do attitude energize the vineyards and everyone she encounters. No stranger to taking on a new challenge, in 2004 Magali left her life in Paris to join the family winery in Provence as the sales and marketing manager. During our tasting, every few minutes Magali would pop up from the table to bring another wine for us to try. Each beautifully crafted wine told the story of the Combard family's commitment to each other and to making wines that authentically express their land.

image courtesy of Domaine Figuiére

Located between Toulon and Saint-Tropez, Figuière is just one kilometer from the sea and they describe their estate as "a paradise where the land meets the sea." Although it is located in one of the sunniest places in France, Magali credits the sea breezes for regulating the heat so that their grapes are balanced and healthy. The soil is another important factor and the terroir of Figuière is mostly schist rock that imbues the wines with a tangible minerality. And even before most people were thinking about organic wine, Figuiére has grown their grapes organically since 1979. Their 210 acre vineyard is home to Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Vermentino (aka Rolle) and other varieties typical of Provence. 

Figuière has an impressive and diverse portfolio that includes rosé, white, red, and sparkling. One of the standouts is Magali Signature Rosé ($25.99), a supple, vibrant, and full-bodied blend of Cabernet, Syrah, Cinsault, and Grenache. Magali said her namesake wine is Figuière's top-selling wine in the USA.  

Jean-François Ott, Co-Director of Domaines Ott, at their Clos Mireille estate. 

Founded in 1912 by Marcel Ott, Domaines Ott is one of Provence's most iconic wineries. Their wines have had a presence abroad for decades and Ott began shipping rosé to our shores in 1938! Hmmm, perhaps Ott should be credited for quietly starting the rosé revolution?

Vintage Domaines Ott bottles

Today, cousins Jean-François Ott and Christian Ott carry on this family legacy as co-directors of their three estates. During my visit, I had the chance to tour Ott's stunning seaside estate, Clos Mireille, with Jean-François. The Mediterranean breezes and soils composed of schist and clay add impressive character to the grapes grown on their 124 acres of vineyards. Jean-François said that he wants the wines to "preserve the flavor of the terroir and the taste of the grape". They do. 

The Ott portfolio eloquently expresses the range of rosé from Provence. To get started, I recomend their Domaines Ott Clos Mireille Côtes de Provence Rosé ($52). A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and Rolle; it beautifully captures the Mediterranean soul of the estate. The price may seem hefty for a rosé but Clos Mireille shows that rosé can rise to level of fine wine and merits a price that reflects the quality of the winemaking.  


Domaine Saint Andrieu winemaker Grégory Guibergia. We didn't speak the same language but still shared plenty of laughs while sipping his superb wines. 

Should you ever hear that I've run off to Provence and care to come looking for me, Domaine Saint Andrieu is one of the places you should check. Located at the base of Bessillon Mountain, to reach Domaine Saint Andrieu you drive through the picturesque organic town of Correns and ascend up, up, up a rustic road. You may be greeted by some adorable goats as you climb and once you reach the top, paradise awaits -- the château of your dreams and wonderful wine.

Domaine Saint Andrieu produces red, white, and rosé wines from traditional Provençal varieties. Their superb Saint Andrieu Côtes de Provence Rosé ($20) is a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah. Fresh and full-bodied, it is a perfect match for the vibrant flavors of the season. These wines are meant for sharing with friends over a beautiful meal.

My time at Domaine Saint Andrieu reminded me of the power of good wine and food to bring people together. Sitting in the sultry Provençal sun and lunching on a simple but lovingly prepared meal, I was thousands of miles from Manhattan but I felt at home.



Throughout the spring and summer, I'll be sharing more information about the rosé, red, and white wines of Provence and the charming people that I met along the way. Cheers! 

Peter Zemmer "Giatl" Proves That Pinot Grigio Can Be Exciting!

I’ve never ever called a Pinot Grigio sexy until now! Peter Zemmer “Giatl” Pinot Grigio Riserva DOC 2016 ($38) will make you reconsider everything you think you know about Italy’s most famous white wine. Alto Adige, located in the northeast of Italy on the border of Austria and Switzerland, is truly one of Italy’s finest regions for Pinot Grigio; the Alpine climate and terroir produce superb grapes. But even in a land renowned for excellent white wines, Zemmer's Giatl ups the ante.

Peter Zemmer Pinot Grigio Riserva “Giatl” vineyard in Alto Adige. Giatl means “little property” or “little vineyard” in the local dialect.

Alto Adige’s first and only DOC Riserva Pinot Grigio, Giatl was fermented in French oak barriques and casks, aged in oak for a year, followed by six months in stainless steel on the lees, and six more months of bottle rest. This meticulous winemaking paid off. Rich and textured with tremendous minerality and a voluptuous yet graceful body; Giatl has crisp and rich fruit, a hint of cream, and a touch of warm spice. This is no easy breezy porch pounder. Giatl is a gastronomic wine that opens up beautifully in the glass. To truly enjoy its full range of flavors, don't serve it too cold. Exquisitely structured Giatl is a Pinot Grigio that can age for several years. 


With so much bland and watered-down Pinot Grigio flooding the market, Giatl reminds us of Pinot Grigio’s capacity for complexity and elegance. I recently enjoyed a bottle of Giatl with friends and remembered that I met Peter Zemmer in 2017 when I was in Italy for the Alto Adige Wine Summit. As fate would have it, Peter is actually holding a bottle of his Giatl Pinot Grigio. Look at that smile; he has every reason to be proud of this exceptional wine! 

Make Every Moment Exceptional with Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Champagne

"Science and sensitivity, great wine is always a balance between the two. Technology is not against tradition." - Benoît Gouez, Cellar Master, Moët & Chandon

Someone recently asked me what I enjoy most about wine writing. Aside from the obvious delights of drinking wonderful wines and traveling to vineyards near and far, the greatest joy continues to be the people that wine brings into my life. Some of my richest new friendships have been formed over a shared passion for wine. Wine has a way of breaking down barriers and slowing down time that fosters a connection. Share a bottle of wine with someone and you tend to discover more similarities than differences and an appreciation for the beauty in our differences. For the past three years I've had the pleasure of tasting the new vintages of Moët & Chandon Champagne with their cellar master Benoît Gouez and it has become one of my most anticipated appointments each year. 

The first year that we met, I confess to being a bit awe struck. Truthfully, I wondered if the invitation to meet with Benoît had been sent to me by mistake. Founded in 1743, Moët & Chandon is one of the most iconic champagne houses in the world. During my first meeting with Benoît, his down-to-earth demeanor and welcoming personality instantly put me at ease. Once that ice was broken, Benoît beautifully dispelled any notion that Moët & Chandon's size and status somehow rendered them not concerned with artistry, quality, tradition, and innovation. Benoît is passionate and precise about winemaking and committed to making sure that each bottle of bubbly lives up to Moët & Chandon's rigorous standards and rich legacy.  

During our most recent meeting in New York City, Benoît generously shared his time and Moët & Chandon's 2012 Grand Vintage releases. Only released in exceptional vintages, the Grand Vintage wines showcase not only the unique qualities of that year but Benoit's interpretation of the vintage. "The wines made from black grapes, especially the fragile Meunier, were particularly good in 2012, which explains why they make up an important part of the assemblage. This Grand Vintage is a softly fresh and harmonious wine that reveals itself slowly but with supple assurance, like the gentle transition of spring into summer, and envelops the palate, blossoming into a crisp yet balanced bouquet."

Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2012 Extra Brut Champagne ($75) is the House's 74th declared vintage. A blend of Chardonnay (41%), Pinot Noir (33%) and Meunier (26%), this majestic bubbly is rich and complex but also has a gentle coyness that is quite seductive. Supple with fine bubbles, crisp apple and pear flavors are lifted by hints of ginger and lychee, with a hint of butterscotch and citrus. The decadently long finish leaves a lasting impression on the palate. Exuberant and impeccable, this is a transcendent champagne. 

Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé Extra Brut 2012 ($85) is the House's 43rd rosé vintage and evokes the transition from spring to summer. A blend of Pinot Noir (42% of its assemblage of which 13% is red wine), Chardonnay (35%), and Meunier (23%); this is an exceptionally elegant and expressive rosé champagne. There's an unabashed fleshiness in this bubbly's red fruit flavors but hints of citrus and stone fruit add verve. Sexy and sophisticated! 


The Moët & Chandon 2012 Grand Vintage champagnes are superb examples of Benoît's artistic nature. I recently shared both of these wines with my very picky friends and everyone was impressed by their beauty. Wow was uttered more than once. If you're looking for wines that will make even a casual meal with friends feel like a gala occasion, pop open a bottle of Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Champagne! 

 

An Elegant Taste of Adventure: Los Vascos Wines from Chile

Los Vascos Carmenere Grande Reserve 2016 ($21.95) is complex and sultry with rich flavors of cherry, ripe berries, and plum with hints of black pepper, bell pepper, dark chocolate, and black olive. 

"Carmenere is not a wine, it's an adventure," said Claudio Naranjo, managing director of Los Vascos in Chile. Like the long-suffering yet indomitable heroine of a telenovela, Carmenere experienced a dramatic case of mistaken identity. Originally a Bordeaux variety, Carmenere came to Chile in the mid-1800's and was accidentally classified as Merlot. But the grape's true identity was discovered in 1994 by a grape classification expert from France and Carmenere quickly secured its position as the grande dame of Chilean red wines. Don't call it a comeback, Carmenere's been here for years!

Baron Éric de Rothschild and Los Vascos winemaker Marcelo Gallardo. 
"Being pioneers in Chile was an exciting challenge, and we have chosen a superb location," said Baron Rothschild. 

The 1988 acquisition of the historic Chilean winery Los Vascos by the iconic Bordeaux wine dynasty, Les Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite), seems destined. The first French viticultural investment in modern Chile, this union is a poetic melding of their shared wine histories. In the mid-nineteenth century, two of the leading Chilean wine producers brought vines from Bordeaux to improve the quality of the original vineyard at Los Vascos. In the late nineteenth century Chile’s natural geographic frontiers protected it from the phylloxera epidemic that ravaged vineyards in Europe. This has resulted in an unbroken line of wine stock at Los Vascos that provides the foundation for wines of exceptional character. 

 

Claudio Naranjo, Managing Director, Los Vascos

I recently had the pleasure of tasting several wines in the Los Vascos portfolio with Claudio and I was impressed by their quality and sense of place. Like a perfectly tailored couture dress, the French influence and tradition are perceptible, but the soul and spirit of Los Vascos are absolutely Chilean. If you want to take your palate on a Chilean adventure with a dash of ooh la la, I recommend exploring Los Vascos. 


Los Vascos Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ($12.95) charms with vibrant citrus and tropical flavors with a hint of spearmint and chamomile. Crisp and refreshing. 

 

Le Dix de Los Vascos 2014 ($69.95) blends Cabernet Sauvignon (85%) with Carmenere (10%)  and Syrah (5%). Le Dix means ten in French and this grand cuvée was introduced in 1996 to celebrate Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite)’s first ten years in Chile. The grapes are sourced from 70-year-old vines in the estate's oldest planted vineyard. A voluptuous and dramatic wine with balanced intensity, the rich berry, dark chocolate, licorice, pepper, and herbal flavors pirouette across the palate. 

Visit the Los Vascos website to learn more about their wines and estate. 

The Charming "Bad" Boys of Verona: The Pasqua Brothers Break the Rules to Make Great Wines

Brothers, business partners, and the nicest bad boys you'll ever meet, Alessandro and Riccardo Pasqua. 

Brothers Alessandro and Riccardo Pasqua are rebels with an admirable cause: save a historic family winery that was floundering. Disruptive in the best sense of the word, when they took charge of Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine in 2014, they knew that defying convention would be the secret to their success. And they were right. Under their leadership, Pasqua has been garnering attention and accolades for their innovative and high-quality wines. 

In 1925, the first generation of Pasqua brothers ventured from their homeland of Apulia in the south of Italy to prosperous Verona, in the northern Veneto region. Alessandro and Riccardo represent the third-generation and their creativity and business savvy have taken Pasqua to new heights. “I’d like to make Pasqua the 'Ambassador of Italian cool,’ the coolest, most disruptive winemaker in Italy, with wineries located in all the iconic areas of the country,” said Riccardo, the elder brother and CEO, or more accurately, Disruptor-in-Chief of the company. Alessandro, co-owner and VP of the Americas, oversees the US market from NYC.  

Founded in the 1st century BC and forever famous as the setting for Shakespeare's Romeo & Juliet, beautiful Verona is steeped in history and tradition. One of Italy's most important winemaking regions; its rolling hills outside of the city center are the cradle of Amarone and Soave wines. Pasqua had everything they needed to succeed but Riccardo said, "When I joined Pasqua in 2007, the winery was struggling: Year after year we were losing market share, and a divided board of two against two didn’t help. Plus, in the U.S. we were doing nothing.” My how times have changed -- Pasqua wines are now available in more than 50 countries and the US is their biggest market. 


Romeo & Juliet Passione Sentimento Bianco Veneto IGT 2017 ($16) is the perfect starting point for understanding Pasqua's unconventional approach to winemaking. The Valpolicella region is renowned for majestic and unique Amarone wine - a robust red made from dried grapes. Pasqua applies that drying technique, known as appassimento, to Garganega grapes to create this sensational white wine. Garganega is the grape used to make the region's traditional Soave wine, so Romeo and Juliet pays a nod to both traditions in a deliciously disruptive fashion. The drying process concentrates the flavors of the grapes and this wine balances that richness with freshness. The wine is round and luscious with great acidity and beautiful citrus and tropical flavors with a hint of almond and cream. Dedicated to Verona's status as a romantic city, the colorful label pays homage to Shakespeare's ill-fated lovers and the messages left by visitors to Verona at Juliet’s house on Cappello Street. 


Romeo & Juliet Passione Sentimento Rosso Veneto IGT 2017 ($16) beautifully melds tradition and modernity. Corvina, one of the traditional Amarone grapes, is blended with Croatina and Merlot. A portion of the Merlot and Corvina is dried (appassimento) in small crates in the fruttaio, an airy room above the cellar, to concentrate their sugars and fruits. This rich juice is then blended with that of the non-dried grapes. The end result of this incredibly intricate winemaking technique is a juicy red with velvety tannins and bold cherry and plum flavors with a kiss of spice and mint. It truly over-delivers for $16! 



The best Amarone wines balance power and richness with grace  -- Mai Dire Mai Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2011 ($100) hits the mark. Mai Dire Mai translates to 'never say never'. A blend of dried Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Oseleta grapes from mineral-rich soils, the robust nature of the wine is balanced by refreshing acidity. Bold dark berry flavors are balanced by lively acidity and kisses of chocolate, clove, espresso, and herbs. Sultry and superb! 

Mom always told me to stay away from bad boys but even she would approve of the Pasqua brothers. Their commitment to family and crafting unique but authentic wines is admirable. After our meeting, I certainly felt inspired to continue following my passions. On my next trip to Verona, I'll be sure to pay Pasqua winery a visit. I know my visit will have a happier ending than Romeo and Juliet! 

Paso Robles Is Your Next Great Wine Getaway!

image courtesy of Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance

I was determined to write my wine story about Paso Robles without mentioning their famous neighbor to the north, Napa Valley. As you can see, I failed in the first sentence. When talking about California wines, it's almost impossible, and perhaps unforgivable, not to recognize Napa's contributions to elevating the quality and reputation of American wines around the world. The story of modern-day California winemaking may indeed start with Napa, but Paso Robles is not only adding some exciting new chapters, it stands on its own as a world-class wine region.

The positive buzz from wine writers and sommeliers started as a whisper but it has grown into a joyful noise and I've noticed more wines from Paso Robles on restaurant lists and in shops. Where there's wine buzz, I happily follow, so I recently accepted a generous invitation from the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance to explore the region, meet winemakers, and taste plenty of fascinating wines.

Meet Clarabelle The Wine Cow, the grape loving mascot of the Paso Robles Inn. 

Paso Robles has plenty of small town charm. Downtown, you'll find spacious and well-appointed accommodations at the Paso Robles Inn, quaint shops, and fantastic restaurants; it is a great home base for venturing out to the nearby rural areas where the vineyards are located. Non-drivers like myself have several options for transportation, including The Wine Line -- a well-managed and friendly hop-on, hop-off van fleet that services the wineries.

Jason Westfall, the friendly and efficient owner of The Wine Line.

There's a bit of a Wild West attitude to Paso Robles, the winemakers that I met didn't seem encumbered to do things a certain way or follow convention. If anything, being unconventional is the norm in Paso Robles. Break the rules but make good wine seems to be the unofficial mantra of the region. The experimental nature of the winemakers combined with Paso Robles's ideal grape growing conditions, lead to some pretty exciting wines. 

Located along California's breathtaking Central Coast, Paso Robles is equidistant from Los Angeles and San Francisco. The region is actually divided into 11unique AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) that recognize the diversity of terroir, soil, and micro-climates. Paso Robles benefits from a long growing season of warm days and cool evenings that are perfect for growing ripe, beautifully balanced, and expressive grapes. And so many grapes! Yes, you'll find Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Zinfandel in Paso Robles but the abundance of different wine grapes that thrive in the area is astounding -- more than 40,000 acres planted with 40 different varieties. Syrah, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Grenache, Pinot Noir, and more all have a presence in Paso Robles. I was impressed at how beautifully these international grapes express themselves in Paso Robles. 

Steve Gleason, founder of Four Lanterns Winery. Long before they opened their winery in 2014, Steve and his wife Jackie were long time visitors to Paso Robles and fans of the wines. Located on the west side of Paso Robles in the Willow Creek AVA, Four Lanterns specializes in Rhône and Bordeaux varietal wines. 

But no matter how great the grapes are, wine doesn't make itself. And more often than not, great winemaking is a group effort. Yes, a winemaker will have a vision but it takes the support of others to bring that dream to fruition. Camaraderie and community are words that I heard consistently when speaking with Paso Robles winemakers. Steve Gleason, founder of Four Lanterns winery, said, "It is a great community to be a winemaker in. Everyone is very willing to help and is very open. The better Paso does, the better we all do." 

Home to more than 200 wineries, it was impossible to visit each winery in Paso Robles during my visit. But I did get a great feel for the region and there really is a Paso Robles wine for every palate and budget. Here are a few suggested wines to look for in your hometown. All of the places listed welcome visitors. If you're looking for an easygoing, unpretentious, and high quality wine adventure, Paso Robles is the place for you. 

Four Lanterns Lamplight Viognier 2016 ($29) has crisp minerality and juicy stone fruit flavors. A great example of how international grapes can thrive in Paso Robles. 

Once home to a working horse ranch, Rava Wines is a 505 acre boutique vineyard in the heart of Paso Robles. Rava specializes in the production of traditional method sparkling wines. Their sparkling Grüner Veltliner 2016 ($32) is an elegant example of the innovative essence of Paso Robles. Indigenous to Austria, Grüner Veltliner is a vibrant and zippy grape. Rava's sparkling interpretation is crisp and delicate with beautiful flavors of green apple and pear. And if you're looking for a beautiful place to host a wedding or other special event, consider Rava's gorgeous grounds, event spaces, and guest house. 


Thacher Blanc de Blanc Sparkling Wine 2013 ($60) was an incredibly delicious surprise. 100% Viognier, produced in the traditional champagne method, it epitomizes creative and precise winemaking. 9 months on the lees and 36 months en tirage, it is complex yet fresh and flirty with vibrant citrus and stone fruit flavors with a touch of brioche.

Winemaker Sherman Thacher had a previous career as an award-winning brewmaster. In 2006 he and his wife Michelle moved to Paso Robles and opened their winery and tasting room in 2008. 

Terry and Jennifer Hoage, winemakers & owners of TH Estate Wines. 

From the gridiron to the vineyard! In 2002, former professional football player Terry Hoage and his wife Jennifer embarked on their Paso Robles winemaking adventure by purchasing a 26-acre vineyard on the west side of Paso Robles in the Willow Creek District. Jennifer describes their devotion to winemaking as a true labor of love. They built the winery from the ground up, their first plantings were Syrah, and in the early days they actually stomped grapes with their feet. The feet stomping may be a thing of the past but from the vineyard to the cellar and tasting room, the Hoages are still very hands on. They produce primarily Rhône style wines on their sustainably farmed estate. In addition to Syrah, they grow and produce wines with Grenache, Mourvèdre, Grenache Blanc, Picpoul Blanc, and Roussanne.  

The Reserve Tasting Flight, a seated tasting in their private tasing room, is a great introduction to the TH Estate Wines style. The 2015 Three-Four Syrah ($88) was a stand-out. A block-designate wine from a specific vineyard, the name was inspired by the spacing of the vines and Terry's jersey throughout most of his professional football career. A rich and zesty Syrah but not too peppery, this superb wine has tight tannins and beautiful dark berry flavors. 

The word iconic is grossly overused but the Hearst name is one of the few that lives up to the hype. Titans of industry, the Hearst family empire is well-known for their vast holdings in mining and media, but I had no idea that a member of the family was involved in the wine business. Not far from the famous Hearst Castle in San Simeon, the Hearst Ranch Winery project is a collaboration between Steve Hearst and Jim Saunders.

Hearst Ranch Winery vintner/owner Jim Saunders and winemaker Soren Christensen. 

I'll confess that I approached the Hearst wines with a bit of skepticism and wondered if the wines were just a marketing opportunity. I'm happy to report that I was wrong and these wines live up to the winery's motto "a legacy of quality." Their portfolio is quite extensive but to get started I recommend their superb 2016 Three Sisters Cuvée ($24). A rich and balanced blend of Syrah, Grenache, Petite Syrah, and Mourvèdre; this luscious red is juicy with a kiss of spice. 

If you're traveling to Paso Robles with a group of friends, Opolo rolls out the red carpet at their stunning property. The vibe is relaxed and festive but from the food to the service, every detail is meticulously executed. 

With some expert coaching and encouragement, I sabered my first bottle of bubbly at Opolo. Don't try this at home! 

The Opolo portfolio includes creative and elegant wines like this charming 2016 Montagna Mare ($28). An unexpected blend of Barbera and Sangiovese, I was astounded at how well these Italian grapes adapt to the Paso Robles terroir. Silky and rich, this is a beautifully balanced wine that puts a Paso Robles twist on these old country grapes. 

With world class wines, down-to-earth winemakers, great food, and beautiful scenery; Paso Robles is a winning wine getaway. No attitude, no snobbery; just a community of people working together to make the very best wine in their unique Paso Robles way. And no matter where you are, you can take your palate on a Paso Robles adventure. Give Paso Robles wines a swirl, you won't be disappointed. 

Secrets and Wines: Guigal Acquires the Historic Château de Nalys in Châteauneuf-du-Pape

"We're not taking over a fancy name, or a fancy brand, or a fancy vineyard; we're taking over a terroir."
- Philippe Guigal, third generation winemaker, E. Guigal

Always charming and gracious, I recently discovered that winemaker Philippe Guigal is also very skilled at keeping a big secret! In spring 2018, we had a laughter-filled tasting of his family's famous & fabulous E. Guigal wines from the Rhône Valley in the south of France. A few months later, I was invited to meet with Philippe again because he had some major news to share -- in July 2017, almost a year before our April meeting, his family had acquired the historic Château de Nalys estate & winery in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Was I the last person on the planet to hear this news? (Really, Philippe? Not even a hint did you give me. Well played, Monsieur!)

However, all was forgiven when Philippe, and his lovely wife Eve, hosted a special tasting of the Château de Nalys wines in November 2018. Since their founding in 1946 by Philippe's grandfather, Etienne Guigal, E. Guigal has always produced a Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine but they did not have their own estate in this prestigious winemaking region in the southern Rhône. 



The Guigal family had been searching for a property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape for more than 20 years. Acknowledged in land registers as far back as the 16th century, Nalys is one of the oldest estates in the region. But it isn't just age that makes Nalys special. A true rarity, Nalys actually contains all 13 of the grape varieties that are permitted in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape blend. This extraordinary vineyard consists of 3 adjoining parcels spanning more than 125 contiguous acres. Impressive! 

During our meeting, Philippe and Eve spoke of the deep love and respect that they already have for this great land. They don't view the acquisition of Nalys as just an expansion of the Guigal legacy but as a commitment to serving as stewards and protectors of this precious terroir. With this in mind, Guigal will be making some improvements to the winemaking and vineyard practices at Nalys but in a respectful way that honors its legacy. 

2017 marks the first Château de Nalys vintages produced by the Guigal family. The wines display an elegance, energy, and expression of place that are a signature of the Guigal style. I can only imagine how impressive future vintages will be as the Guigals become even more intertwined with the property. 

Saintes Pierres de Nalys Blanc Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017 ($58)
Saintes Pierres means holy stones, a cheeky play on the soils and history of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The region's soils are famous for a top layer of pebble shaped galet stones and the name of the region means "the Pope's New Home" -- a reference to the 14th century move of the Pope from Rome to Avignon. A blend of Clairette, Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, and Picardan; this white wine is a beautiful medley of mineral, citrus, peach, and herb flavors. Fresh and full. 

Saintes Pierres de Nalys Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2016 ($58)
A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Muscardin, Counoise, and Mourvedre; this lovely wine strikes an impressive balance between richness and freshness. Juicy red fruit flavors wrap around a thread of earth and soft tannins. 

Château de Nalys Grand Vin Blanc Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017 ($105)
A grand blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, and Picquepoul, this white is bold but full of grace. Full-bodied and plush with a touch of spice and cream. Vibrant citrus with a kiss of tropical fruit. Pretty and powerful. 

Château de Nalys Grand Vin Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2016 ($105)
There's nothing timid about this precise blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise, and Vacarese. Bold and complex flavors of dark fruit, rich earth, spice, and minerals open up beautifully in the glass. 


One of the things that I love about Guigal wines is that they are consistently elegant but never aloof. Beautifully made, they always tell a story and express their unique terroir. The essence of the grape and the place is never obscured. I look forward to following the Nalys chapter of the Guigal's wine journey for many years to come. And next time, I'll be sure to ask Philippe about any secret projects!

Tuscany's Gold Knight Ventures Beyond the Castle Walls: Cavaliere d'Oro Wines Showcase Four Italian Regions

"We make wine where the wine in the glass speaks about the terroir where it grows."
Federico Cerelli, Chief Winemaker, Cavaliere d'Oro

Imagine a grown-up fairy tale where a dashing knight clad in a golden suit of armor, gallops up to you on a glorious steed and whisks you away to a medieval Tuscan castle where each glass of wine is more wonderful than the last. Sounds like heaven! Well, my daydream essentially came true on a recent visit to Castello di Gabbiano for a celebration of their new collection of Cavaliere d'Oro wines. No, I did not get swept away on a horse, but my palate embarked on an exciting wine tasting adventure through Tuscany and beyond!


Located in the heart of the Chianti Classico region, Castello di Gabbiano's rich winemaking legacy can be traced back to 1480. Legend has it that during the Middle Ages a Gold Knight protected this majestic castle and vineyards. Inspired by this fearless knight, Cavaliere d'Oro wines pay homage to this glorious history but represent the start of a bold new chapter. Cavaliere d'Oro has Tuscan roots but valiantly explores other winemaking regions: Puglia, Sicily, and Veneto. The collection currently consists of 13 wines from these 4 regions and range in price from $10-$40. 


Born in Tuscany, the juice of the Sangiovese grape runs in winemaker Federico Cerelli's veins. At home, there was always a bottle of Sangiovese on the table. Federico's favorite childhood snack, prepared by his grandmother, was a piece of bread moistened with wine and topped with a sprinkle of sugar. His grandfather had a hectare of vineyards and as a little boy Federico loved helping him. It seems that Federico was destined to be a winemaker. Since 2011, he has been Chief Winemaker at Castello di Gabbiano and the new Cavaliere d'Oro project combines Federico's Tuscan expertise with his experience and curiosity about other Italian winemaking regions. 

Chianti 2017 DOCG ($10), Chianti Classico 2016 DOCG ($14), Chianti Classico Riserva 2016 DOCG ($22), Bellezza Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2016 DOCG ($40)



The Cavaliere d'Oro collection contains four Sangiovese based wines but each is completely different. Federico touts "the flexibility that Sangiovese has to adapt to the terroir" as a key factor in this range of expression. The grape adapts and reflects the characteristics of the soil and micro-climates. From easygoing and fresh, to complex and sultry; there is a Cavaliere d'Oro wine for every moment, meal, and budget.  


The single-vineyard Bellezza Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2016 DOCG ($40) is an excellent example of Sangiovese's ability to transmit terroir. Bellezza means beauty and this superb wine lives up to the name. 

The Bellezza vineyard is a rocky hillside plot and the wine's rich fruit flavors are balanced by a pleasing flinty minerality and touch of earth. Silky with soft tannins and gorgeous flavors of black cherry and raspberry, with a tinge of orange peel and cedar; Bellezza has great freshness and acidity. Delicious now, Bellezza's balanced structure indicates that it will age gracefully. 

The Tuscan wines also include two blends. Cavaliere d'Oro Toscana 2016 IGT ($17) is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese; it has charming flavors of juicy wild berries and a touch of violets. 

Alleanza Toscana 2016 IGT ($35) is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with seductive flavors of black cherry with touches of anise, toasted oak, and sweet spice. 



Heading south, the Gold Knight explores Sicily and Puglia. Terre Siciliane Rosso 2017 IGT ($17) blends Sicily's iconic Nero d'Avola with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. 20% of the hand-picked Nero d'Avola and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were air-dried and then vinified. The non-dried grapes were fermented separately. This is quite a complex and nuanced wine at a very accessible price point. Rich but not unwieldy, its bold fruit flavors and hints of spice are impressively harmonious. 


100% Primitivo, the Gold Knight delivers a vibrant and bold expression of Puglia's native grape. Primitivo Puglia 2017 IGT ($17) is velvety and lush with flavors of ripe cherries and plum with hints of cocoa and vanilla. 

Lest you think the Gold Knight has pledged exclusive fealty to red wines, Cavaliere d'Oro also has a selection of refreshing white wines that are focused on Pinot Grigio and Prosecco. 



Think all Pinot Grigio wines are the same? Cavaliere d'Oro presents three very different expressions of Italy's most famous white wine. Gabbiano Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie DOC 2017 and Pinot Grigio Valdadige DOC 2017 both blend Pinot Grigio with a bit of Chardonnay: Gabbiano has vibrant flavors of fresh green apple, citrus, and tropical fruit, whereas the Valdadige has more pronounced minerality. The Campanile Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie DOC 2017 is 100% Pinot Grigio and has a hint of salinity and tropical fruit. Around $10 each. 

And even the Gold Knight can't resist a flirty glass of sparkling wine. Lively and festive with delicate bubbles, Cavaliere d'Oro Prosecco ($14) is 100% Glera from the Veneto region. They also produce a Prosecco that is available exclusively at restaurants. 

Winemaker Federico Cerelli explains the nuances of the Cavaliere d'Oro wines. 

 "Every region in Italy is a different culture, a different philosophy," said Federico. 4 regions, 13 wines; Cavaliere d'Oro is an ambitious project. When asked what links these wines from Tuscany, Puglia, Sicily, and Veneto together, Federico adamantly stated, "All the wines must be at their top level of quality. Drinkability. Elegance." This philosophy, paired with a strong foundation and Federico's precise and artistic approach to winemaking, Cavaliere d'Oro is poised to win over wine lovers. 


Outside of the museums, knights in shining armor are a rarity in Manhattan so it was an absolute delight to step back in time during my visit and stay at Castello di Gabbiano. Pick up a few bottles of Cavaliere d'Oro wine and start planning your own magical Tuscan getaway. Spacious rooms and apartments are available for rent at the castle. The property also has a fantastic restaurant, appropriately named Il Cavaliere, that serves authentic and fresh Tuscan cuisine. Live and drink life like it's golden! 

Sip the Sweet Life with a Glass of Moscato d'Asti

Moscato d' Asti with a view of the Ceretto estate in Piedmont, Italy. 

They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery but Italian producers of authentic Moscato d'Asti aren't so amused by bottles of fake wine from Russia that brazenly bear their name. Shameless counterfeiters may slap the name Moscato d'Asti on a bottle but the true essence of this Piedmontese wine is inimitable. Moscato d'Asti is more than just a delicious sweet & fizzy wine, it represents a rich tradition of winemaking and a cultural legacy. 

"It is time to talk about Moscato d'Asti as a serious wine, not just a decent wine," said Luigi Coppo of Coppo Winery. Founded by his great-grandfather in 1892, Coppo has produced Moscato d'Asti since their founding. Coppo's historical underground wine cellars have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Why is it that we are often so dismissive of the sweet things in life as less interesting or less worthy of our appreciation? I must confess that prior to my recent visit, as a guest of the Asti DOCG Consortium to the province of Asti in the north of Italy in Piedmont, I knew relatively little about Moscato d'Asti, beyond its sweetness and worldwide popularity. I mistakenly considered it a wine that was made in Italy but not truly a part of the Italian lifestyle. Color me wrong. The winemakers, chefs, and everyday folks that I met in Asti made it clear to me that their love of Moscato d'Asti runs deep and the wine is an integral part of Piedmont's gastronomic and social traditions. 


Naturally sweet and low in alcohol, Moscato d'Asti's prettiness makes it seem deceptively simple. However, precise winemaking is required to retain the essence of the Moscato Bianco grape -- the only grape that is authorized in the production of Moscato d'Asti. Moscato Bianco is an ancient Mediterranean grape that has grown in the region for hundreds of years and it was made into Italy's first official sparkling wine in 1865 by Carlo Gancia. The Asti Consortium was founded in 1932 and Moscato d'Asti was awarded DOCG status in 1993; the highest level of quality for Italian wines. 


"I love making Moscato because it is difficult." Acclaimed winemaker Stefano Chiarlo, pictured with his father, legendary winemaker Michele Chiarlo.


Federico Ceretto represents the third generation of Ceretto Wines. Their Moscato d'Asti is produced at their Vignaioli of S. Stefano estate in Santo Stefano Belbo. 

Visiting vineyards in Asti, I was amazed at how the naturally sweet and delicate flavors of the Moscato Bianco grapes that I tasted on the vines retained their personality in the wine. A well-made glass of Moscato d'Asti is a true thing of beauty. Seductively aromatic, Moscato d'Asti is sweet but nuanced with lively acidity and subtle fizz, it is a tapestry of flavors -- peach, honey, apricot, sage, wisteria, lemon, and more. Like all wine grapes, Moscato Bianco reflects the characteristics of terroir.

Moscato d'Asti pairs well with a wide variety of foods. Try it with fresh figs, cured meats, cheeses, and seafood. 

Winemaking in the beautiful hillside vineyards of Asti is often a family affair. The Marenco family has been making wine at their stunning vineyards in Strevi since 1925 and their wines tell a story of  love and commitment to their land. 

image courtesy of Marenco

The Marenco sisters - Michela, Patrizia, and Doretta are carrying on the legacy started by their grandfather.

 
 
"Wines from our Scrapona vineyard vineyard always demonstrated a unique character," said Andrea Costa of Marenco Wines. His aunt Patrizia Marenco is the winemaker and Andrea joined the family business in 2014, where his background in engineering has proven perfect for bringing innovation to Marenco's wine cellars and vineyards. 

Marenco's Scrapona vineyard is considered the best in Strevi’s prestigious Bagnario Valley. The name Scrapona derives from the dialect scrapare, meaning to climb and refers to the steepness of the hillside and how the best vineyards are often the most difficult to work. Marenco Scrapona Moscato d'Asti is an excellent example of the charms and finesse of a finely made Moscato d'Asti. Sweet but not cloying, it is crisp and nuanced with a great balance of fresh fruit flavors with subtle hints of sage. Still not convinced? Scrapona was served to President Barack Obama and former UN Secretary General Ban Ki- Moon in 2016 at an official event of the United Nations General Assembly. 

It really shouldn't be surprising that Moscato d'Asti is made with such care and attention, after all Piedmont is one of Italy's most prestigious wine regions. World-renowned for Barolo, Barbera, and Barbaresco; many of the winemakers that I met in Asti also produce those top-tier red wines and don't view Moscato d'Asti as an inferior product, but as a unique and important part of their winemaking heritage. Moscato d'Asti producers like Michele Chiarlo produce some of the finest and most awarded red wines in the world and certainly their Nivole Moscato d'Asti meets exacting standards.

Winemaker Matteo Soria focuses exclusively on the production of Moscato d'Asti. His family'y hilltop estate was founded by his great-grandfather. 

It is an exciting time for winemaking in the Asti region, the new Asti Secco DOCG wines are a dry expression of the Moscato Bianco grape. And Asti Dolce DOCG wines are made in the spumante style -- a great option when you're craving a sweeter wine with more bubbles than Moscato d'Asti. If you're planning a trip to Piedmont, I highly recommend eating and drinking like the locals. A glass of Moscato d'Asti adds so much sweetness to life! 

Recommended Wines

Michele Chiarlo "Nivole" Moscato d'Asti DOCG ($16.99)
Marenco "Scrapona" Moscato d'Asti DOCG ($20)
Coppo "Moncalvina" Moscato d'Asti DOCG Canelli ($15)
Ceretto "Vignaioli di Santo Stefano" Moscato d'Asti DOCG  ($23.99)
Soria Moscato d'Asti ($14.99 )

To learn more about Moscato d'Asti, I also recommend visiting the Moscato d'Asti Stories website. Yes, yours truly is featured in some of the video segments. 

Brunello for Breakfast: A Far from Traditional Wine Tasting with Tancredi Biondi-Santi

Even in Manhattan, where people pretend not to notice anything, with his impressive stature and perfectly tailored suit, Tancredi Biondi-Santi draws attention when he enters the room. Of course, people were also staring because it was only ten in the morning and our breakfast table was covered with bottles of wine! But not just any wine, Brunello di Montalcino. And not just any Brunello di Montalcino, but the legendary wines of Biondi-Santi. It isn't an exaggeration to say that without Tancredi's ancestors, Brunello di Montalcino might not exist. 

Clemente Santi is considered the founding father of Brunello di Montalcino and Tancredi proudly represents the seventh generation of this winemaking dynasty. In 1869, Clemente Santi's 1865 vintage was awarded a silver medal by the Agrarian Committee of Montepulciano and marks the first recorded mention of Brunello. This trailblazing vino went on to receive prestigious accolades abroad, including in France. According to the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium, "Brunello di Montalcino traces its roots to the 19th century when local farmers began experimenting with a native grape variety cultivated in the surrounding territory. This grape, known as "Brunello" or “Brunellino”, was identified as a variety of Sangiovese. The delectable wine produced from this fruit can be aged for years, richly enhancing its value." In 1980, Brunello di Montalcino was the first wine to receive the prestigious DOCG (Denomination of Origin Controlled and Guaranteed) designation, which represents the highest level of quality for Italian wines. Montalcino, a tiny hilltop town in the heart of Tuscany, is small but mighty in the world of wine.

Many people might be overwhelmed by such a formidable legacy but Tancredi embraces it with grace and humility. Tancredi travels the globe sharing the beauty of Tenuta Greppo Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino and is an in-demand expert not just on his family's wines but the region. Universally acclaimed as one of Italy's finest wines, Brunello di Montalcino is renowned for its elegance, complexity, and longevity. I was delighted at Tancredi's willingness to share his exceptional wines over a casual meal. These wines are so exquisite nothing can diminish their light, indeed they cast a glow over every meal and moment.

With such a storied history, Biondi-Santi is synonymous with tradition but they aren't afraid of respectful innovation. Clearly winemaking has evolved since the 19th century but Tancredi believes that "Technology should not influence the style of the wine. Technology must respect the style of the wine." With that credo, the Biondi-Santi style remains a true reflection of their terroir and tradition. "We innovate as much as we can but maintain our style," said Tancredi. This devotion to tradition isn't just a manifestation of loyalty to the founders but a wise winemaking decision that presents Brunello di Montalcino in the way it was intended to be -- an authentic expression of the terroir and the Sangiovese Grosso grape. For Biondi-Santi, that Sangiovese Grosso grape is specifically their BBS11 clone (Brunello Biondi Santi 11 Clone) which was officially identified in 1970. 

 

Aged 36 months in Slavonian oak, followed by another year of aging in the bottle, Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino 2012 DOCG ($209) is a young wine by Brunello standards; it has the capacity to age another 70-80 years! Nonetheless, I was impressed at the wine's approachability and harmony at this toddler stage of its development. The tannins are firm but not aggressive and the fruit is intense yet graceful. A subtle touch of spice accentuates the wine's freshness and red fruit flavors. This wine was clearly made with passion and precision. 

Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2011 DOCG ($566) is clearly not a casual purchase. But if you want to experience a wine that eloquently expresses the majesty of Brunello di Montalcino, this wine is nearly perfect. I say nearly because while it is stunningly beautiful at this moment, it will reveal its true character over time. It has enough structure to age 70-80 years but displays an appealing vibrancy and nuance that make it an unforgettable wine at this moment. Perhaps Tancredi's father, Jacopo Biondi-Santi says it best, "Set apart by its extreme elegance this bottling gives off a beautiful impression of fruit. The very dry climate has given Brunello Riserva 2011 a rare readiness and drinkability without altering its intensity and longevity potential." Riserva 2011 was aged 36 months in Slavonian oak, followed by 2 years in bottle. 


To experience a bit of the Biondi-Santi mystique at a more accessible price point, their Rosso di Montalcino 2015 ($115) is a charmer. Fresher and flirtier but still elegant, it was aged 12 months in Slavonian oak and has the capacity to age 15-20 years. 

I recognize that the wines of Biondi-Santi are an investment but if you are ever offered a glass, please say yes and savor every sip. Biondi-Santi's wines are to be treasured not only because of their historical significance but they represent a level of winemaking that is to be admired for its authenticity of expression. And if you want to have the fanciest breakfast ever, take a tip from Tancredi and start your day off in grand fashion with Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino. 

Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino for breakfast? Don't mind if I do! It was such an unforgettable treat to taste these very special wines with Tancredi Biondi-Santi. 

Make the Holidays Sparkle with Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG

I love the surprised look that my friends get when I rattle off Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG. Honestly, I'm not just showing off my hard-earned and still far from perfect pronunciation; I really want people to know that there's more to Prosecco than the cheap and pleasant sparkling wine that is ubiquitous at boozy brunches. While many producers have taken advantage of Prosecco's popularity to flood the market with inferior wines, Prosecco Superiore is in a class all by itself.


What makes Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG so special? Some of the clues are in the name. These sparkling wines have a true sense of place -- the majestic steep hillsides of Conegliano Valdobbiadene, in north east Italy about 30 miles from Venice and 64 miles from the Dolomites. The production zone for Prosecco Superiore DOCG is limited to the 15 hilly communes between Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. Prosecco Superiore wines must contain a minimum of 85% Glera; the grape that is the heart and soul of Prosecco. The region also has the distinction of being the home of Italy's first wine school, which was founded in 1876. 

Glera grapes at Masottina's vineyards

Vines have been grown in the region since ancient times and the first written reference to Prosecco dates back to 1772. Building on centuries of tradition, knowledge, and innovation, winemakers in Conegliano Valdobbiadene are focused on crafting quality wines that authentically express the terroir. These wines are designated Prosecco Superiore for a reason and their superb quality earned them the coveted DOCG designation in 2009 -- the highest level of quality for Italian wines.  

Within the Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG, Rive and Cartizze are smaller and specialized areas within the larger region. In the local dialect, Rive refers to steep hillside vineyards and the wines are made exclusively from hand-picked grapes grown in 43 different hamlets and villages. The Superiore di Cartizze category is even more exclusive: this sub-zone of just 107 hectares is composed of the steepest hillsides of three villages in Valdobbiadene. 

Masottina Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Brut DOCG NV ($22)

I had the pleasure of visiting Masottina winery in the Conegliano Valdobbiadene region in 2017 and fell in love with the wines and the region. Founded in 1946, and still owned and managed by the Dal Bianco family, Masottina takes no short cuts and is committed to crafting wines that authentically express their terroir. Their Prosecco Superiore, made from 100% Glera, is so vivacious, crisp, and fresh, it reminds me of tasting the grape directly from the vine. 

Nino Franco "Rustico" Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG ($19)
Whenever friends tell me that Prosecco is pleasant but nothing special, I can always count on Nino Franco to win them over. Founded in 1919, Nino Franco is one of the oldest wineries in the region and their winemaking mastery shows in every sip. Dry, creamy, and crisp with fine bubbles and elegant fruit & flowery flavors, this is a gorgeous 100% Glera bubbly with tremendous texture and minerality.   

La Marca "Luminore" Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG ($30)
A limited-edition Prosecco Superiore crafted to celebrate La Marca's 50th anniversary, Luminore is a  crisp and lively expression of the Glera grape with charming flavors of white pear, fresh citrus, and subtle floral notes. A festive sip with a flirty finesse, Luminore's ebullient nature was inspired by the sunny hillsides of Valdobbiadene. 

Masottina "Le Rive di Ogliano" Conegliano Valdobbiandene Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry, 2017 DOCG ($27)
To understand the allure of Rive, this wine from Masottina is a superb example of why Prosecco Superiore from one of these 43 zones is so acclaimed -- it is an extraordinary conduit of terroir. Soft but well-structured, Le Rive di Ogliano Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry has more residual sugar than the brut, but the wine is so beautifully balanced that the sugar delicately lifts zesty citrus, crisp pear, juicy mandarin and wraps them around a mineral core. 

Mionetto Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG ($45)
Mionetto is one of the most popular Italian wine brands in the world, but few people realize that their rich history dates back to 1887. Founded by Francesco Mionetto in the heart of Valdobbiadene, their wines are known for consistency and quality. Their Cartizze is a step above and truly special; it is a limited-production wine that represents the highest quality of the Prosecco Superiore DOCG. Crafted from select grapes grown exclusively in a 246-acre area in the steepest hills of Valdobbiadene, Mionetto's Cartizze displays a seductive richness and texture that is surprisingly complex for Glera. But the grape's inherent grace remains and the gorgeous medley of pear, citrus, and apple flavors, with a touch of glazed almonds, powerfully express Glera's capacity to produce wines with nuance and depth.

 Congeliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG may be tricky to pronounce but so easy to love! Click here to learn more about these charming sparking wines. Cheers! 

 

Malbec Maestro Pepe Galante Captures the Essence of Uco Valley

image courtesy of Bodegas Salentein

Don't let José "Pepe" Galante's quiet demeanor fool you - he's a genuine winemaking rock star. Widely celebrated as the father of modern winemaking in his native Argentina, Pepe has more than 40 vintages to his credit and shows no signs of slowing down. His illustrious career includes an impressive 30-year tenure as Catena Zapata's chief winemaker but since 2010 Pepe has worked in this capacity at Bodegas Salentein in the Uco Valley region of Mendoza. 


Today, the Uco Valley is a widely respected wine appellation but that wasn't the case in the late 1990's when Dutch entrepreneur Mijndert Pon founded Bodegas Salentein. A true trailblazer, when Mr. Pon arrived in the Uco Valley in 1996 he didn't just want to build a winery; he wanted to transform a region. The tremendous success of Salentein turned Uco Valley into a global sensation and paved the way for many of the other respected wineries that have made Uco Valley their home. 

In a world full of stunning wineries, Bodegas Salentein is certainly one of the most beautiful that I have visited. With the stunning Andes Mountains as its backdrop, Salentein is the largest estate in the Uco Valley with an expansive 5,000 acres -- about 2,000 of those acres are planted with grapevines. Their vineyards are planted at some of the highest elevations on the planet, soaring as high as 5,600 feet above sea level. Those variations in elevation and their unique micro-terroirs, have inspired Pepe to create a selection of single-vineyard wines that express the essence of Uco Valley in a distinctive fashion. 

Salentein's single vineyard selections include Chardonnay and the grape that put Argentine wines on the map - the majestic Malbec. For this article, I will focus on Malbec because I feel that it falls into the category of "well-known but misunderstood" wines. One common misperception about Malbec is that the wines are all the same. So much inexpensive and simple Malbec has flooded the market that some wine drinkers think that all Malbec wines from Mendoza meet a very narrow criteria of "bueno, bonito y barato" (good, pretty, and cheap). In fact, the true beauty of Malbec is its capacity to eloquently express a sense of place and a talented winemaker like Pepe Galante knows how to craft Malbec wines that aren't overly manipulated but expertly coaxed to the best expression of their true nature.

 Pepe vividly describes his approach to crafting their single vineyard wines: "Malbec and Chardonnay are unique varietals which take on the characteristics of the terroir they grow on. The Uco Valley, though small in size has a number of unique micro terroirs with diverse elevations; different soils, rock formations, mineral deposits, as well as irrigation from various brooks born from melt waters from the Andes. The winemaking process, from harvests to vinification and aging is exactly the same, leaving the terroir to define the fruit: thus creating a unique collection of diverse expressions of Malbec."



Grapes for Salentein Single Vineyard Malbec La Pampa 2015 ($58) are sourced from the La Pampa Estate which is located 4,265 feet above sea level within the GI (Geographical Indication) San Pablo. La Pampa's deep sandy loam soils have a high percentage of river stones, many covered with a layer of calcium carbonate. According to Salentein's studies of the soils, the calcium carbonate holds water underground and transmits important minerals to the roots of the vines. La Pampa Malbec has bold flavors of ripe dark fruits with a touch of black licorice, clove, and herbs that are elegantly balanced by lively acidity and freshness.

Salentein Single Vineyard Malbec El Tomillo 2015 ($58) is sourced from an estate within the GI Paraje Altamira with an elevation of 3,445 feet above sea level and the soils are alluvial and sandy textured. Salentein describes this Malbec as "a wine with intense and complex aromas of red fruits and a variety of spices; especially thyme - giving the estate its name." Savory and complex in the mouth, with silky tannins, a refreshing acidity, and a long and elegant finish, there was a softness and a touch of violet to El Tomillo that I found quite charming. 



The Los Basaltos vineyard soars 4,692 feet above sea level within the GI Gualtallary. Salentein Single Vineyard Malbec Los Basaltos 2015 ($58) beautifully expresses the influence of the volcanic rock and basalt soils that inspired the estate's name. If you've ever licked a rock, Los Basaltos evokes that sensation of slate and minerals. Tight tannins, a kiss of spice, and a great balance between boldness and freshness make this a very compelling Malbec.  



If you've been dubious of Malbec's ability to express itself as a place-specific and nuanced wine, Salentein's single vineyard wines will convince you. There's a reason why Pepe Galante is so revered in Argentina and beyond; he's dedicated his life to elevating the artistry and science of winemaking. Whenever I mention Pepe to his winemaking peers, they inevitably break into a smile and extol his talent, legacy, and kindness. I am happy to add my voice to the choir of Pepe fans; he's a tremendous winemaker and exceptional gentleman.  

PS -  If you're planning a trip to Mendoza, a visit to Bodegas Salentein is a must. In addition to the estate's breathtaking natural beauty, the winery is an architectural masterpiece. The estate also has an art gallery, restaurant, chapel, and accommodations. 

He Is Pere Ventura and His Wines Are Fantastic: Chic Cava from Catalunya

 

Marta Sanvicente (chief winemaker, Pere Ventura Cava) and Pere Ventura (president and owner of Pere Ventura Family Wine Estates)

Wine is very humbling -- there's always something new to learn. On a brisk fall night in downtown Manhattan, I learned that Pere Ventura is not just the brand name on a wonderful bottle of sparkling wine but also the name of a charming & creative Catalan gentleman. Mr. Ventura's business card boldly states "Yo Soy Pere Ventura" (I am Pere Ventura) to make it crystal clear that Pere Ventura the wine would not exist without Pere Ventura the man. His hand print on each bottle is a bold statement of Mr. Ventura's personal dedication to quality.

Pere Ventura Cava is located in northeast Spain, near Barcelona, in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, in the Penèdes region - the heart of Catalunya's Cava production zone. 

As a young man, Pere Ventura dreamed of dedicating his life to the priesthood but wine has provided him with a different type of ministry. Traveling the world to share his acclaimed sparkling wines, Pere Ventura spreads the gospel of a life enhanced by wine. When he founded his namesake winery in 1992, Mr. Ventura wasn't just determined to make Cava of exceptional quality, he was honoring his family's winemaking legacy that can be traced back to the 19th century. Cava is in Mr. Ventura's DNA -- his great grandfather, Manuel Montserrat Font, helped produced the first bottles of Cava at Codorniu. 


Cava has grown in popularity but the wines of Pere Ventura prove that it is more than Spain's fun and inexpensive sparkling wine. In the right hands, Cava can achieve impressive elegance and depth. With Marta Sanvicente at the helm as chief winemaker, Pere Ventura Cava continues to reach new heights. There are no short-cuts when it comes to making Cava at this level and Pere Ventura produces all of their Cava in the traditional method of sparkling wine production, the same labor-intensive method used for Champagne. Sustainability is also a priority at Pere Ventura and the grapes are farmed organically.

Pere Ventura Tresor Brut Reserva ($16.99) is a great introduction to the Pere Ventura style. A classic blend of Xarel-lo (40%), Macabeo (40%), and Parellada (20%), it is crisp and clean with lively flavors of ripe apples, grapefruit, lemon, and brioche. Aged 24-30 months on those lovely yeasty lees, this wine truly over-delivers at such an affordable price. 

Pere Ventura Tresor Brut Rosé ($16.99) is made from 100% Trepat and has been aged about 15 months on the lees. Fine bubbles dance across the palate with fresh flavors of strawberry, raspberry, and cherry. 



Pere Ventura Vintage Brut Gran Reserva 2012 ($44.99) is a next-level Cava that beautifully convey's the wine's capacity for complexity and sophistication. A blend of Xarel-lo (60%) and Chardonnay (40%) grapes sourced from old vines with an average age of 25 years, this stunner spends a minimum of 45 months luxuriating on the lees. Creamy and velvety with hints of butterscotch and a tinge of bitter almond at the finish, this vintage Cava balances intensity with lively acidity and fine bubbles. 

Pere Ventura Gran Vintage Gran Reserva 2012 ($86.99) is an exclusive and limited production Cava made only in exceptional vintages. The price may initially strike you as lofty for a Cava but it represents a superior level of winemaking. The Macabeo (50%) and Xarel-lo (50%) grapes are sourced specifically from the estate's old vine plots La Anciana and La Secreta. These elder vines yield small quantities of exceptional grapes. Aged for 5 years on the lees in deep underground cellars, Pere Ventura Gran Vintage Gran Reserva 2012 is a vivid expression of terroir and meticulous winemaking. Vivacious but delicate bubbles smoothly transport elegant flavors, textures, and a sense of place. 


Are you ready to take your palate on a Cava adventure? If your travels take you to Spain's Catalunya region, Pere Ventura offers tours and guided tastings. But no passport is needed to enjoy these wines, Pere Ventura Cava is widely available. And when you pop open a bottle of Pere Ventura be sure to raise a glass in honor of Mr. Pere Ventura! 

The Secret's in the Slopes: Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino

image courtesy of Val di Suga

Speak with winemakers and you'll notice a common refrain is repeated around the globe -- great wine starts in the vineyards. Few would dispute that the tiny, yet majestic, hilltop town of Montalcino in Tuscany is home to some of the finest vineyards in the world. And from those prized vines, Sangiovese Grosso grapes provide the foundation for one of Italy's most acclaimed wines - Brunello di Montalcino. But no two vineyards in Montalcino are the same and in a land of phenomenal wines, Val di Suga has a unique advantage: they are the only producer to own vineyards on the three slopes best suited to producing top quality Brunello. 

image courtesy of Val di Suga

Like many important things in life, it is the minutiae of location that really matters when we talk about vineyards. Factors such as elevation, soil types, and proximity to water all impact the flavor profile and quality of the grapes. With vineyards on three different slopes, with three different soil types, and three different exposures; Val di Suga has the ability to produce three entirely unique styles of Brunello that authentically reflect their terroir and microclimates. 


Stefano Mangiarotti, sales director for Bertani Domains says that Val di Suga's three single vineyards with three different terroirs enables them to "present Montalcino like no one else."

I recently had the opportunity to taste through Val di Suga's various expressions of Brunello di Montalcino with Stefano Mangiarotti, sales director of Bertani Domains (Val di Suga is part of their impressive portfolio.) If only my college geology class had included wine tasting, I would have been much more interested in soil types. And for anyone that thinks talk of terroir and minerality are nonsense, Val di Suga's wines are solid proof that wines can express a sense of place when their essence is respected in the winemaking process. 


Val di Suga 'Vigna del Lago' Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 ($98) is produced from Sangiovese grapes grown in clay soil near Val di Suga's lakeside vineyard, Vigna del Lago, which is 886 feet above sea level and on the northern slope of Montalcino. The fresh and lithe quality of Vigna del Lago hints at the influence of its proximity to water. Not overly extracted, it is soft with slightly chewy tannins and a touch of chalky minerality mid-palate. 


The Sangiovese Grosso grapes for Val di Suga 'Vigna Spuntali' Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 ($109) hail from the southwestern sea-facing slope -- the sunniest and driest of the three slopes. Historically, Vigna Spuntali has been known as the best area of the southwestern slope of Montalcino and the soils are a mix of sand and marine fossil debris. I found Vigna Spuntali a sexier and sultrier expression of Brunello with rich flavors of dark cherry, plums, dried figs, and blackberries. 


Stefano aptly describes Val di Suga 'Poggio al Granchio' Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 ($88) as a "macho and bigger Brunello with big shoulders." The area with the highest altitude vineyards on the Montalcino hill, Poggio al Granchio's rich galestro (marl) soils are particularly conducive to growing expressive Sangiovese Grosso grapes. Poggio al Granchio is an especially terroir-driven Brunello with evocative flavors of black cherry, clove, licorice, red currants, and a tangible earthiness. 


Apart from the slope-specific Brunello wines, Val di Suga also produces wines that combine Sangiovese Grosso grapes from all three vineyards. Their Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2016 ($25) is an especially charming and lovely introduction to the Val di Suga style. Fresh and vivacious without sacrificing elegance and structure, this young red has soft cherry flavors with a tinge of white pepper bite.


Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 ($67) also blends grapes from all three vineyards and its nuanced red fruit flavors are enhanced by hints of tea leaves and mountain herbs. 

image courtesy of Val di Suga

The expressive and authentic nature of Val di Suga should not have surprised me -- it is the trademark style of exceptionally talented winemaker Andrea Lonardi, technical director of Bertani Domains. Lonardi is endearingly obsessed with creating wines that are honest expressions of their origins. Whether you are a Brunello afficionado or just starting to explore these regal Tuscan wines, Val di Suga will captivate you. And if your travels take you to Montalcino, Val di Suga offers tours and tastings. I can't wait to visit one day. 

The Terroir Talks in the Tuscan Wines of Tenuta di Ghizzano

 

Countess Ginevra Venerosi-Pesciolini represents the 26th generation of her illustrious Tuscan family to lead Tenuta di Ghizzano.

Ginevra Venerosi-Pesciolini doesn't need to introduce herself as a Countess to impress you. In fact, it wasn't until days after our meeting that I realized that the very cool lady that I had spent two hours wining, dining, and laughing with was in possession of a noble title and a family tree that includes Tuscan royalty, poets, and more than one palazzo. Ginevra's humility is certainly endearing and her wines don't need pomp and circumstance to get your attention because as she proudly proclaims, "my wines have a soul."

image courtesy of Tenuta di Ghizzano

The family's estate, Tenuta di Ghizzano, is located in the Colline Pisane (Pisan Hills) south of Pisa near the Mediterranean Coast, and has been in the family since the 1300's. Such a long history might make others demur to tradition but Ginevra has not been afraid to innovate since taking over as the winery's director in 1996. Ginevra's first radical decision was to introduce organic and sustainable practices. In 2003, she went even further by launching their conversion to biodynamic winemaking -- in Europe they have earned rigorous certifications, including DEMETER Biodynamic Certified and in the US, Tenuta di Ghizzano wines are certified as made with organic grapes.

image courtesy of Tenuta di Ghizzano

"I like to consider myself a 'natural winemaker'. In other words, I try to allow my wines to express their terroir as purely and as honestly as possible," says Ginevra. Not only does she eschew herbicides and other chemicals, Ginevra exclusively uses native yeasts to stimulate fermentation and minimally filters her wines.   

Too often we speak of Tuscan wines as a monolith but there is tremendous diversity in this beautiful region of central Italy. Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino may be Tuscany's most famous appellations but the region is home to a multitude of officially defined winemaking regions; including the Terre de Pisa DOC and Costa Toscana IGT where Tenuta di Ghizzano produces their wines. 


Il Ghizzano Bianco 2017, Costa Toscana IGT ($19.99) is a charming introduction to the Tenuta di Ghizzano style. A blend of Vermentino (50%), Trebbiano (30%), and Malvasia Bianca (20%); the coastal influence of the soft sea breezes is apparent in this refreshing and crisp white wine. Easygoing and fruit-forward but nicely textured with a hint of salinity and a touch of minerality from the fossil-rich soils that were once covered by the sea. Organic Certified, Biodynamic, Vegan


Il Ghizzano Rosso 2016, Costa Toscana IGT ($19.99) strikes that perfect balance between pretty and earthy. Mostly Sangiovese (95%) with a kiss of Merlot (5%), it has vibrant & fresh flavors of dark cherry and hibiscus with a mellow earthy thread that softly envelops the palate. Ginevra said that their estate's Sangiovese grapes are less acidic, less tannic, and a bit sweeter than those found in some other regions of Tuscany because of the soil and proximity to the sea. Organic Certified, Biodynamic, Vegan


Veneroso 2014, Terre de Pisa DOC ($29.99) is Tenuta di Ghizzano's flagship wine and was first produced in 1985. A blend of mostly Sangiovese (70%) with a good amount of Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), the grapes were selected from the estate's oldest vineyards. Bold but not unwieldy, the more delicate flavors of the Sangiovese meld harmoniously with the more muscular Cabernet Sauvignon. Lush and rich without sacrificing freshness, Veneroso has an impressively long finish. Organic Certified, Biodynamic, Vegan


Family is at the heart of Tenuta di Ghizzano and in 1996 Ginevra created and named Nambrot to honor the founder of the Venerosi family, who lived in 830 AD. Ginevra believes that a wine's personality is "70% territory and 30% the grape variety." What better way to prove that point than by creating a blend of non-indigenous varieties that will display their core traits in a unique manner that expresses the terroir where they were grown? Nambrot 2015, Costa Toscana IGT ($39.99) blends Merlot (60%), Cabernet Franc (20%) and Petit Verdot (20%) to create a rich and concentrated wine with bold flavors of blackberries, cassis, and red fruits. Aged around 18 months in French oak casks, Nambrot's powerful fruit flavors are enhanced by a hint of warm spice and a sultry savoriness. The grapes are global but the wine is absolutely Tenuta di Ghizzano. Organic Certified, Biodynamic, Vegan

image courtesy of Tenuta di Ghizzano

I admire Ginevra's commitment to her family's legacy and to crafting honest wines that aren't over-manipulated. Tenuta di Ghizzano wines are delightfully drinkable but remain true to their origins and don't attempt to mimic a cookie-cutter style. The wines are widely available and if you're planning a visit to Tuscany, Tenuta di Ghizzano welcomes visitors for tours and tastings. And if you really want to immerse yourself in their rustic yet elegant Tuscan lifestyle, accommodations are available at four renovated farmhouses on the estate. I've certainly added it to my wine travel wish list! 

Modern Day Marlborough Man: Sipping New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc & Pinot Noir with Nobilo Winemaker David Edmonds

 

Nobilo winemaker David Edmonds doesn't hesitate when asked what his biggest challenge is -- "It's letting people know that all Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc are not the same." Because Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is so popular, many people mistakenly believe there's only one uniform style. Often described as grassy, zesty, and easygoing; that's only one facet of Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand and David is determined to showcase the diversity and elegance of his homeland's most famous wine.

image courtesy of Nobilo Wines

By the age of 15, David was already certain that he wanted to be a winemaker but never imagined that he would hold this position at one of New Zealand's most iconic producers, Nobilo. The Nobilo story begins in 1943 when founder Nikola Nobilo arrived in New Zealand from his native Croatia. Armed with his family's 300 years of winemaking experience, Mr. Nobilo immediately saw the potential for Sauvignon Blanc to thrive in Marlborough's terroir and was truly a pioneer in the region. Nobilo's vineyards are spread throughout the sub-regions of Marlborough, the northeastern corner of New Zealand's South Island. One of New Zealand's sunniest and driest regions, Marlborough's combination of ideal temperature, topography, ocean breezes, and mineral rich soils combine to create a veritable utopia for Sauvignon Blanc grapes. 



Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ($13)
"Natural acidity is our secret weapon," said David. And he's right. Vivacious and lively acid is the wave that carries the wine's juicy fruit flavors of pineapple, mango, and peach along with a subtle hint of green herbs. The grapes were sourced from Nobilo's vineyards throughout Marlborough. Crisp and refreshing, this charming white wine is a great aperitif. Not just for summer, Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc is a perfect choice when it's cold outside but the indoor heat is blasting and you want something chilled and refreshing! 



Nobilo Icon Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ($22)
If you think Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is just about easygoing zest, Nobilo Icon's elegantly restrained intensity and flinty minerality show the varietal's capacity for sophistication. Nobilo's flagship wine, the grapes for Icon are sourced from three special vineyards in the Marlborough region. David poetically describes Nobilo Icon's aroma as "the smell of thunder on the breeze." On the palate, he describes an "explosion of flavor" -- citrus, tropical, flinty minerality, passionfruit, white flowers, and a tad herbaceous. Nobilo Icon has the structure needed to pair with more substantial seafood dishes like monkfish, steamed mussels, and sautéed prawns. 



Nobilo Icon Pinot Noir 2016 ($22)
New Zealand has become one of my favorite regions for Pinot Noir and Nobilo Icon doesn't disappoint. The grapes are sourced exclusively from Nobilo's Castle Cliffs Vineyards in Marlborough's Awatere Valley. The 20-year old Pinot Noir vines produce small grapes with intense flavors and aromas. The wine was barrel aged for 10 months but retains impressive freshness and rich fruit flavors that are enhanced by a hint of warm toast. Exuberant and nuanced with gorgeous dark cherry, blackberry, strawberry, and rhubarb flavors, this wine has the capacity to age very well -- I tasted several older vintages with David and they were still fresh and vibrant after almost ten years. Pair Nobilo Icon Pinot Noir with some lovely New Zealand lamb -- heaven!!! Great recipes and wine pairings are available on the Nobilo website.


With 75 years of winemaking under their belt, vineyards in idyllic Marlborough, and the winemaker's passion for crafting Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir wines that authentically express the character of their special terroir; Nobilo wines are absolutely New Zealand yet display their own distinctive style. 

The Wine Next Door: A Manhattanite Discovers the Beauty of Finger Lakes Wines

 

Every so often this native Manhattanite needs to be reminded that there's more to New York than my little island. The five boroughs that form the Big Apple may get a disproportionate share of the glory but the Empire State is a sprawling and multi-faceted tapestry. Home to concrete jungles and Mother Nature's majestic masterpieces, New York State has it all, including acres of vineyards and a vibrant wine industry. And the Finger Lakes is one of New York's most exciting wine regions. From indigenous grapes to varieties from far-flung corners of the globe, winemakers and grape growers from the Finger Lakes have earned critical acclaim for their creativity and commitment to quality.

Spread like fingers across central New York, a Native American legend attributes the creation of the Finger Lakes to a divine architect: "The Creator looked upon this land with special favor and reached down to bless it, leaving the imprint of His hand, hence, the Finger Lakes." Geologically speaking, the 11 Finger Lakes were formed as the last ice age ended and enormous holes were left behind by the receding glaciers. Finger Lakes wine country is centered around four main lakes with Native American names: Canandaigua (“The Chosen Spot” or “The Chosen Place”), Keuka (“Canoe Landing” or “Crooked Lake”), Seneca (“Place of the Stone”), and Cayuga (“Boat Landing”). 

There is no shortage of breathtaking lake views in the Finger Lakes region but these water sources aren't just eye candy -  they play an important role in moderating the climate of the vineyards - "cooling in the summer, warming in the winter, and sheltering the vines from temperature extremes" according to the New York Wine & Grape Foundation. The region's natural resources combined with talented winemakers make a formidable alliance. 


I'm definitely guilty of having treated wines from the Finger Lakes like the cute boy next door that I never really paid attention to. Surely, a wine from my own neck of the woods couldn't be as exciting as those from lauded old world regions and trendy new world locations abroad? My recent (and first) visit to the Finger Lakes proved me absolutely wrong. The wines next door are pretty intriguing. From multi-generational family owned wineries with deep roots in the region's viticultural history to more recent immigrants and transplants, the Finger Lakes has about 140 wineries and tasting rooms, each with a unique story.

Fred Frank and his daughter Meaghan represent the 3rd and 4th generations of the world-renowned and family-owned Dr. Konstantin Frank winery.

It isn't an overstatement to say that Dr. Konstantin Frank revolutionized winemaking and ignited the "Vinifera Revolution" in the Finger Lakes. Armed with a Ph.D in viticulture and an innovative mind, Dr. Frank immigrated to the United States from Europe in 1951. Naysayers told him that the region's cold climate made it impossible to cultivate Vitis Vinifera varieties from Europe but Dr. Frank proved them wrong. His pioneering technique of grafting Vitis Vinifera onto native root stock created healthy grapevines and set into the motion the Finger Lakes' destiny as an acclaimed wine region. Cool-climate grapes, such as Riesling and Pinot Noir, do exceptionally well in the Finger Lakes but Dr. Frank's successful early experiments with 60 different varieties provided a blueprint for the diversity of vinifera grapes grown in the region. In 1962, Dr. Frank founded Vinifera Wine Cellars and his descendants continue his legacy of innovation and quality. 



Dr. Konstantin Frank Blanc de Blancs (2013 vintage is available for $29.99)
Few things make me as happy as being greeted with a beautiful glass of bubbly so I knew my visit to Dr. Konstantin Frank was off to a great start! 100% Chardonnay and crafted in the traditional Champagne method, their Blanc de Blancs is fresh and crisp with vibrant flavors of green apple, white pear, chamomile, citrus, and yeasty brioche. Bottle aged on the lees for at least 4 years, it also has a hint of creaminess. An elegant wine that expresses the purity of the Chardonnay grapes and artful winemaking, I dare any Champagne snob to challenge the complexity and beauty of this wine! (I also recommend their 100% Pinot Noir sparkling brut rosé, $34.99, that is pictured at the top of this article.) 



During my visit to the Finger Lakes, I encountered many wines that I had never tasted before and Dr. Konstantin Frank Amber Rkatsiteli 2016 ($34.99) was one of the most intriguing. Thousands of years old, Rkatsiteli (pronounced er-ka-tsee-tely) hails from the Republic of Georgia and is one of the oldest known varieties. Found mainly in cool climate regions of Eastern Europe, it also grows beautifully in the Finger Lakes. Crafted to be reminiscent of the Rkatsiteli wines found in Eastern Europe, this charming expression from Dr. Frank is a medium-bodied dry wine with lively acidity, tangible minerality, and flavors of sweet basil, grapefruit and honeysuckle with hints of warm clove. 


Red Tail Ridge winemaker Nancy Irelan and her winegrower husband Mike Schnelle are relatively new to the Finger Lakes but have made a big impression. In 2004, they used their life savings to purchase their property on the western shore of Seneca Lake and essentially built their winery from the ground-up. New to the area but a veteran of the wine industry, Nancy left behind her position of Vice President of Viticulture and Enology R&D for a large corporate winery (Gallo) in California to pursue her own winemaking vision in the Finger Lakes. The name Red Tail Ridge pays homage to the pair of hawks that live in the woods surrounding the vineyard. Specializing in limited-production wines, experimentation is an essential part of Red Tail's Ridge's identity. In addition to well-known cool-climate grapes like Riesling and Pinot Noir, Red Tail Ridge also produces obscure varieties like Teroldego. Committed to responsible environmental practices, Red Tail Ridge runs on geothermal energy and implements many other strategies that earned it the distinction of being New York State's first LEED Gold Certified winery. 


Can't choose between Riesling and bubbly? Red Tail Ridge Sekt, Sparkling Riesling Extra Brut 2012 ($29.95) beautifully combines the best of both worlds. Produced in the traditional Champagne method, this charming wine is delicate but distinctive with excellent balance between chalky minerality, lively acidity, and vibrant citrus & stone fruit flavors. 


Who knew that a relatively obscure red grape from northern Italy would be a perfect match for the terroir and climate of the Finger Lakes? Nancy Irelan did! Red Tail Ridge Teroldego 2015 ($39.95) does right by this gorgeous grape. Different but absolutely approachable, it has rustic but pretty flavors of ripe dark fruit with tinges of herbs and tobacco. Great structure and acidity hint at good aging potential.  



Born into a family of farmers and winemakers, Johannes Reinhardt traveled far from his native Germany to forge his own identity as a winemaker. Wine was always a part of Johannes's life but in the Finger Lakes he was able to fulfill his dream of owning his very own small boutique winery. In 2013, Johannes and his wife Imelda opened the doors to their Kemmeter Wines tasting room. Combining his hands-on experience and formal training, Johannes makes wines that are precise and soulful.

In a world full of rosé wines, Kemmeter Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir 2017 ($22) is a welcome addition. Fresh and pure flavors of strawberry, cherry, and watermelon are balanced by a dry finish. 



Kemmeter SanSan Riesling 2016 ($35) comes with a heartwarming dedication on the back of the bottle -  "SanSan is the Chinese name for the greatest blessing in my life - my wife Imelda." The eye-catching label also hints at another of the winemaker's passions - music. A portion of Johannes's favorite Bach piece, the Third Orchestral Suite, appears on the bottle. The back label cleverly incorporates a musical scale to designate the sweetness of this elegant off-dry Riesling.


When Mel Goldman was in Nepal working with the Peace Corps he probably never imagined that one day he would own a vineyard in upstate New York. After an impressive career working in industrial and agricultural development in developing countries, in 1997 Mel and his wife Dorothee moved to the Finger Lakes and officially started Keuka Lake Vineyards. In the beginning, Mel focused on selling his grapes but inspired by the excellent quality of the Riesling his vines produced, he immersed himself in the art and science of winemaking. After a few test batches for family and friends, Keuka Lake Vineyards produced their first vintage in 2005 with a bit of guidance from a more seasoned winemaker in the region. Winemaking duties are now the domain of Finger Lakes native Staci Nugent. Staci was away on the day of my visit but her credentials (Masters degree in Viticulture and Enology from the University of California at Davis) and stellar wines speak for themselves. I'm not the only one who thinks so -- Keuka Lake Vineyards wines are available in many of New York's most acclaimed restaurants, including Eleven Madison Park, Gramercy Tavern, and Blue Hill at Stone Barns. 



Keuka Lake Vineyards Upper Eastside Dry Riesling 2017 ($30) is a single vineyard sensation from their 20 Rows Vineyard on the east side of Keuka Lake. Beautifully showing what happens when pristine grapes meet meticulous winemaking, it is crisp and vibrant with fresh citrus flavors. Dry but not austere, the fruit shines through. 

Keuka Lake Vineyards Vignoles 2015, Gently Dry ($14) is a wonderful introduction to this relatively obscure grape. A French hybrid grape also known as Ravat 51 in honor of its breeder J.F. Ravat, Vignoles is a cross between Seibel 6905 and Pinot de Corton. Vignoles never really caught on in France but it is produced by several Finger Lakes winemakers. Quite aromatic, Vignoles is known for its citrusy flavors and lively acidity. 

Everyone should be drinking more Cabernet Franc and Keuka Lake's is quite delicious. Light and graceful with pretty flavors of ripe raspberry. 2017 vintage is available for $22. 



The impact of the Finger Lakes goes far beyond New York state. Oskar Bynke, co-owner of Standing Stone Vineyards and the historic Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard, owns a vine nursery that supplies quality grafted grape vines to California and other major wine regions. Their selection includes Riesling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gamay, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, and more. 


image courtesy of the Inn at Glenora Wine Cellars

If you're looking for an authentic and top-notch wine getaway, the Finger Lakes won't disappoint. The region has a diverse selection of accommodations, including the rustic yet chic Inn at Glenora Wine Cellars -- my home base during my visit. The rooms are well-appointed and boast priceless views of Seneca Lake.

My first visit to the Finger Lakes certainly won't be my last. I was impressed and inspired by the excellent wines, stunning landscapes, and hard-working winemakers and winery owners that have committed tremendous time and resources into creating a world-class wine destination that defies expectations. I may live in the Big Apple but I thank the Finger Lakes for reminding me that New York state is wine country!

Thank you to the New York Wine & Grape Foundation for inviting to me participate in this sponsored trip. All opinions expressed in this article are my own.

Wine That Makes Me Sing: Martini & Rossi Prosecco & Asti

It takes a sparkling personality to make sparkling wine! Winemaker Giorgio Castagnotti has worked for Martini & Rossi for 35 years and is still passionate about his job.  

Their catchy jingle has been stuck in my mind for decades, but now it's the Martini & Rossi wines that I can't stop thinking about. I was too young to really appreciate wine when the vintage "Martini & Rossi Asti Spumante, When You've Got Good Taste it Shows" commercial was a television staple, but I was absolutely old enough to dig a disco-ish jingle celebrating the pleasures of sparkling wine. That commercial was retired ages ago but it succeeded in making Martini & Rossi a name that I would never forget. And now I'm more than old enough to enjoy a glass! 

Founded in 1863, Martini & Rossi is truly an icon. Italy's largest producer of sparkling wine, it would be too easy to assume that Martini & Rossi pumps out a sea of generic wine but a recent tasting with Martini & Rossi winemaker Giorgio Castagnotti quickly shattered any preconceived notions that I had. Our tasting of Martini & Rossi Asti and Prosecco showed me that high volume does not mean inferior quality. Well-made, refreshing, and accessibly priced, Martini & Rossi sparkling wines are a delightful reminder that wine can be produced on a large scale without compromising quality or style.



Martini & Rossi Prosecco DOC ($14.99)
Who says that classics can't be innovated and improved? Martini & Rossi has recently introduced a drier style of their famous Prosecco and it is now Extra Dry with just a hint of sweetness. Winemaker Giorgio Castagnotti gleefully proclaimed that he is "obsessed with freshness" in the flavor profile of his sparkling wines and the updated style of the Prosecco certainly reflects that esthetic. Crisp and refreshing, it has vibrant citrus flavors & aromas with hints of green apple, pear, and thyme. The blend is 85% Glera (the classic Prosecco grape) with dashes of other grapes, including Verdiso and Chardonnay. A very well-structured Prosecco with fine & persistent bubbles, this is a sure-fire way to get the party started. 



100% Glera, Martini Collezione Speciale Prosecco DOC ($25) takes their passion for innovation and craftsmanship to the next level. Giorgio describes this elegant wine in the striking bottle as "pure Prosecco" that was achieved through an "obsessively controlled winemaking" process. The Glera grapes were selected from a specific vineyard. The connection to their traditional Prosecco is evident in its Extra Dry style and vibrant fruit, but this special version is more intense with a pronounced minerality and a hint of exotic fruit flavors. 



Martini & Rossi Sparkling Rosé ($14.99)
Extra Dry and absolutely delicious, Giorgio cheerfully describes the shade of this vivid rosé as "Disco Pink." A blend of Riesling Italico, Chardonnay, Glera, and Nebbiolo; it is fresh and fruity but not overly sweet. Lively red fruit flavors are revved up with a hint of orange zest. 


image courtesy of Martini & Rossi

Martini & Rossi Asti DOCG ($12.99)
Long before Moscato became trendy, Martini & Rossi Asti was there. Crafted from 100% Moscato Bianco grapes from Piedmont in the north of Italy, Martini & Rossi Asti bears the prestigious DOCG designation that denotes the highest level of quality for Italian wines. The pure and natural sweetness of the grapes shines through in this lively sparkling wine with vibrant flavors of peach and melon. People often pair Asti with dessert but winemaker Giorgio Castagnotti suggests a savory pairing, like a salami panini, that won't compete with the sweetness of the wine. Low alcohol, big flavor! 

Martini Collezione Speciale Asti DOCG ($25)
This limited-edition Asti made from Moscato Bianco grapes sourced from specific vineyards shows that Asti can reach a higher level of nuance and finesse. Naturally sweet with flavors of peach, citrus, and elderflower, it also has subtle hints of savory herbs. Great by itself at the end of a meal or with suggested pairings of fresh fruit, chocolate, and blue cheese. 



It was an absolute joy to sip Martini & Rossi Asti and Prosecco with winemaker Giorgio Castagnotti. I'll never forget this very established winemaker, with degrees in oenology and food chemistry, happily joining me for an impromptu duet of the old Martini & Rossi television jingle. Wine brings people together for conversation, laughter, and sometimes a song! Sparkling wine, in particular, has a very special way of setting the tone for celebrations. Martini & Rossi's well-crafted and consistent sparkling wines are an excellent way to pop the cork on some delicious bubbles without breaking the bank. However, you may break into song! 

If your travels take you to Italy, Martini & Rossi welcomes visitors at their historic Casa Martini in Pessione di Chieri (Turin). The former home of co-founder Luigi Rossi and the production site of MARTINI, the property has a history that spans more than 150 years. Highlights include the Wine Museum and Mondo Martini Gallery. 

Spinning Bottles: Viña Pomal Blanco 2016

So much wine, so little time! My cell phone is filled with photos of almost every bottle that I taste but it is impossible to write about each one. Inspired by the childhood game of Spin the Bottle, instead of spinning an actual bottle and kissing the person that the bottle points at, I've opted to take a spin through my wine photos until one gives me that tingling feeling that reminds me of how delicious it was. After all, a great glass of wine is almost as good as kissing (sometimes better)!


Meet my new wine crush - Viña Pomal Blanco 2016 ($15). Chock full of personality, this charmer from Rioja is an exquisitely textured and balanced blend of the traditional varieties Viura (70%) and Malvasia (30%). As elegant and crisp as Antonio Banderas in a white linen suit, it is a supple and fresh white wine with a hint of sexy warmth and toastiness garnered from 4 months of aging in French and American oak. However, there is no overwhelming oaky taste to Viña Pomal Blanco and it retains vibrant fruit and minerality plus a hint of herbs and a seductive creaminess from time on the lees. I was honestly surprised at the $15 price tag because Viña Pomal beautifully over-delivers. A perfect match with warm summer nights, flirty conversations, seafood, salad, and mild cheeses. 

Wine Makes a Family: The Enduring Legacy of Ruffino

 

"We don't just want to share the calm side of Tuscany, we want to share the adrenaline, the competition of the harvest, the emotion." - Gabriele Tacconi, Chief Winemaker, Ruffino

Italy is renowned for its legendary winemaking families that span generations and centuries. But it isn't just shared DNA that defines a family, familial bonds are also built by a mutual commitment and passion for a common cause. So I don't doubt Ruffino winemaker Gabriele Tacconi's sincerity when he strongly proclaims "We are proud. We are the family." The we that Gabriele speaks of, the winemaking team at Ruffino, may not have Ruffino in their genetic bloodline but they are united in their devotion to its legacy and future. “The Ruffino style is steeped in tradition, elegance, and drinkability, and has been developed over time. It’s a style that my team and I treat with great respect."

Founded in 1877 in Tuscany by cousins Ilario and Leopoldo Ruffino, the winery has survived and thrived for more than 140 years. The very first Chianti wine exported to the United States, Ruffino has won countless awards and acclaim -- in the early 19th century they were even selected as the official supplier of the Italian royal court. But we're living in the 21st century. How do Ruffino's wines fit into the lives of today's wine lovers around the globe?


image courtesy of Ruffino

Over lunch at Union Square Cafe in Manhattan, Gabriele shared his reverence for Ruffino's storied past. But this motorcycle-loving modern man from Modena is all about making wines that speak to how we live, dine, and entertain today. Elegant but not pretentious, complex but not arrogant, Gabriele and the wines he makes for Ruffino are authentic and intriguing. "It is the passion, not perfection that brings people to wine," said Gabriele.


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2014 ($40.99)
Gran Selezione is an exclusive and relatively new category that represents an elite selection of wines at the very top of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid. A blend of high quality Sangiovese, Merlot, and Colorino grapes from several Ruffino estates in the heart of Castellina in Chianti, Riserva Ducale Oro is meticulously aged for 36 months. Translating to "Reserved for the Duke," Riserva Ducale is named after the Duke of Aosta -- he appointed Ruffino as the royal court's official wine supplier in 1890. I think the Duke would approve of this elegant and expressive wine and its precise but passionate fruit, herb, and earth flavors. Bold and beautifully structured with well-integrated tannins and lively acidity, this wine has what it takes to age gracefully. 


Ruffino Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 ($80)
Beyond Chianti Classico, Ruffino also produces another of Italy's most revered wines, Brunello di Montalcino, at their Greppone Mazzi estate. A pure expression of place and grapes, it is crafted from 100% Sangiovese Grosso, which is known as Brunello in the Montalcino region of Tuscany. Crafted from the finest grapes in the vineyard, Greppone Mazzi was aged a total of 40 months. Complex and nuanced with impressive balance, Greppone Mazzi is rich but not overbearing. Luscious and deep red fruit flavors are bolstered by warm hints of chocolate and earth. A sophisticated sip meant to stand the test of time. 



Ruffino Modus 2015 ($24.99)
 Modus elegantly blends Tuscany's signature Sangiovese with the international varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Plush and plummy with silky tannins, this superb Super Tuscan was aged in French oak for 12 months. Subtle hints of vanilla beautifully accent the luscious fruit flavors and hints of herbs. 



Ruffino Alauda 2015 ($99)
Only produced in exceptional vintages, Alauda blends international favorites Cabernet Franc and Merlot with the Tuscan variety Colorino. All of the grapes are sourced exclusively from Ruffino's finest vineyards at their acclaimed Montemasso and Poggio Casciano estates in the heart of Tuscany. These low-yield vines produce limited quantities of exceptional fruit. Aged a total of 22 months, Alauda is sultry and voluptuous with velvety tannins and impressive complexity and grace. Big ripe berry and plum flavors meld harmoniously with touches of dark chocolate and savory & sweet balsamic notes. Another Ruffino wine that will age extremely well for many years. 


image courtesy of Ruffino

I've only scratched the surface of Ruffino -- their extensive portfolio includes white, red, sparkling and rosé. From everyday drinking wines to more complex splurge-worthy vinos, La Vita Ruffino, the embodiment of the fine Italian art of good living, is accessible to everyone. And if your travels take you to Tuscany, you can get more fully immersed in La Vita Ruffino by booking a Ruffino tour and tasting. Winemaker Gabriele said, "My favorite wine is the one that brings something special to the bottle. It is a story of people and I want to bring us to the bottle." So the next time you see a bottle of Ruffino at a wine shop or restaurant, remember the story of Gabriele and the team that have bonded together to create a modern expression of a winemaking family. 

Wanda's Wine Glass: Donnafugata, Bonterra, and Champagne Pommery

Whether I'm wining & dining with friends or just relaxing at home, wine is an essential part of my life. When a wine makes me lift up my glass and say WOW, I have to share my tasting notes with you. Cheers, Wanda  

Donnafugata "Floramundi" Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG 2016 ($30)

Donnafugata means "woman in flight" but you should run towards, not away from, this elegant and sultry wine from south-east Sicily! A blend of the indigenous Sicilian grapes, Nero d'Avola (70%) and Frappato (30%); Floramundi is a lighter-bodied red that you can serve slightly chilled on a hot summer day. Fresh cherry and berry flavors are enhanced by a subtle kiss of spice. Floramundi is another beautifully made and expressive Donnafugata wine that is boldly adorned with artwork of a powerful and alluring woman. Fun fact: Cerasuolo di Vittoria is Sicily's only DOCG wine - the top tier of quality for Italian wines. 

Bonterra Rosé 2017 ($16)
Just when I think that I couldn't possibly drink another glass of rosé, I sip a particularly delicious pink wine that reminds me that rosé is a lifetime love, not just a summer fling. Made from organic grapes, this charming Grenache-based rosé from Mendocino County, California, is crisp and vibrant. Dry but fruity with juicy flavors of strawberry, watermelon, and pomegranate. Bonterra consistently delivers beautifully crafted wines at great prices. 



Pommery POP Champagne ($15 each)
No, this is NOT an announcement about my personal life - the only thing I'm expecting is a wine delivery from my charming UPS man! Pommery POP It’s a Girl and It’s a Boy limited-edition personal champagne bottles are perfect for baby showers and other baby related festivities! Or you can just follow my lead and pop them open while relaxing at home with Netflix and takeout! Don’t let the cutesy bottles fool you - the champagne inside is serious! The white and rosé are both crisp, extra dry, and balanced with fine bubbles. These adorable POP bottles are also available without the baby talk. 

Mixed Barrels & Pure Passion: Beronia Winemaker Matías Calleja Innovates in Rioja

Was it destiny? Beronia winemaker Matías Calleja was born to a winemaking family in Ollauri, the historic town in La Rioja where Beronia is located. Matías has completed 36 harvests at Beronia! 

Winemaker Matías Calleja is endearingly modest when he talks about his impressive career. Considered one of Rioja's innovators, Matías has been at the acclaimed Beronia winery since 1982 and became Technical Director in 1996 -- that's pretty impressive considering that the winery was founded in 1973. His long tenure at Beronia has had a definitive impact not only on their wines but on winemaking throughout Rioja and all of Spain. Matías balances his technical know-how with authentic passion and humbly says, "Everyday I enjoy my job. I enjoy making wine."

It's hard to fathom but there was a time when Spanish cuisine and wines were not as celebrated abroad as they are now. Having lived in Spain in my younger years, I can say that it was frustrating when I returned back to the US and couldn't find authentic expressions of the flavors that I had grown to love. Of course, times have changed and you'd be hard pressed to find an American food-loving city that doesn't have a first-rate tapas bar with a great Spanish wine list. In the old days, Spanish wines had a reputation for being more rustic than elegant but Beronia has been one of the leaders in elevating the quality of Spanish wines without obliterating their authenticity.


image courtesy of Beronia

Located in the north of Spain, Rioja is the country's preminent wine region and is divided into three distinct sections: Rioja Baja, Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Alta. Beronia's vineyards are concentrated in the heart of Rioja Alta and experience a mainly Atlantic climate along with various micro-climates. The soils have a balanced structure of sand, sediments, clay and other qualities that make them ideal for the production of quality wines. 


image courtesy of Beronia

But one of the most distinctive traits of Beronia's winemaking style is what I call "The Matías Method" for barrel aging. Why choose a barrel made exclusively from French or American oak, when you can combine both? 95% of the wines produced by Beronia are red and designed for long aging. Matías, a self-proclaimed oak enthusiast, pioneered combining French and American oak in one barrel to achieve optimal aging results for a selection of their wines. The Matías Method of aging reds in barrels made up of American staves and French tops is a hallmark of the Beronia Style. American oak tends to be more intensely flavored and contributes oaky flavors such as cinnamon, vanilla, and coconut. French oak imbues the wines with more subtle and pungent spicy notes like clove and black pepper and Matías believes that it "respects the fruit more." Combined together in this clever fashion, the two very different oaks balance and enhance each other. 


My recent tasting of Beronia included a barrel sample and showed how oak selection influences their wines. 

When we talk about Rioja reds, Tempranillo is la reina (the queen) and occupies more than 75% of the region's vineyards. In younger wines, Tempranillo's fresh & fruity nature are its main appeal but the grape also has the structured needed to grow more complex during many years of barrel and bottle aging.


Beronia Reserva 2013 ($19.99) is mostly Tempranillo (95%) with kisses of Graciano (4%) and Mazuelo (1%). Crafted from a selection of the best grapes from the oldest vineyards, Beronia Reserva 2013 was aged in mixed French & American oak barrels for 20 months and aged in bottle for another 18 months before release. That's a lot of serious, creative, and meticulous winemaking at a very affordable price! A captivating shade of deep cherry red, the winemaker's notes describe it as "On the nose complex aromas of black fruits, above all blackberry. It also shows a great bouquet of spices with cinnamon standing out and notes of cedar on the finish. On the palate smooth with sweet and round tannins. Great balance between acidic fruit and oak. Fresh, structured, and complex with a long aftertaste."



Beronia Gran Reserva 2009 ($29.99) takes it to the next level. 98% Tempranillo with a besito of Graciano (2%); shows Matías's flexibility and precision as a winemaker. For the Gran Reserva, he opted to age the wine exclusively in new French oak for 28 months, not mixed barrels, and an additional 36 months in the bottle. Silky and bold but not aggressive, the winemaker's notes say "Beronia Gran Reserva 2009 shows a deep intense maroon color. On the nose intense and complex with dried fruits and plums standing out over chocolate and sweet spice. On the palate structured and full showing black chocolate and tobacco. This wine shows great personality with a full body, elegance, and freshness." 



Reds may rule in Rioja but Beronia brings the same level of passion and innovation to their white wine Beronia Rueda 2017($12.99). Crafted from 100% Verdejo grapes from two different harvests in the same vineyard that were vinified separately, it has a perfect balance of crisp freshness and nuanced complexity. Rich and aromatic but very refreshing, the winemaker's notes say "Beronia Rueda 2017 is pale yellow in color with greenish tints. Intensely aromatic, it displays notes of citrus and white fruit along with herbaceous aromas that are typical of the grape variety, such as fennel. Richly textured on the palate, it is fresh and elegant, with a slight touch of bitterness on the finish, also characteristic of the Verdejo grape."

      

In 1982, Beronia was integrated into the highly regarded González Byass wine family but has retained its unique Beronia style. Tasting wine and sharing laughs with Matías, during his recent visit to Manhattan, transported me back to Spain for a few wonderful hours. This conviviality is truly in the DNA of their wines - Beronia was founded by six friends from the Basque country who loved to wine & dine together while vacationing in Rioja. Elegant, authentic, and creative; Beronia's beautiful wines are made for sharing and bringing people together. 

Click here to learn more about Beronia's complete portfolio of wines and to plan your visit to their winery in Rioja. 

Beauty, Power, Brunello: Tenute Silvio Nardi Makes Meaningful Montalcino Wines

 

Emilia Nardi, the youngest daughter of the founder of Tenute Silvio Nardi, began managing the winery at the age of 30.

Emilia Nardi proves that authentic power isn't loud and flashy. Soft-spoken with a commanding presence, Emilia's charisma lies in her elegant demeanor. It's no wonder that Emilia is one of the most respected women in the wine world and a true leader in the prestigious realm of Brunello di Montalcino.

Continuing the family legacy that began when her father Silvio purchased the Casale del Bosco estate in 1950, Emilia has led Tenute Silvio Nardi since she was 30 years old and has put her executive MBA to impressive use by focusing on modernizing the estate and vineyard development. Her innovations have not gone unnoticed and in 2004 Emilia was recognized by Italy's Agricultural Ministry as a Female Agricultural Innovator. Emilia is the real deal.   


Casale del Bosco vineyard
image courtesy of Tenute Silvio Nardi

When an invitation arrived to meet Emilia and taste her family's acclaimed wines, I did not hesitate to say yes. One of Italy's most iconic wine regions, when Silvio Nardi arrived in 1950, Montalcino was not the global powerhouse that it is today. In fact, being from Umbria, Nardi was actually considered the first "foreigner" to invest in Montalcino. One of the founding members of the powerful Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, Nardi's intuition and investment paid off beautifully as shown by the worldwide esteem and craving for Brunello. 

Harvest at Tenute Silvio Nardi
image courtesy of Tenute Silvio Nardi

Brunello di Montalcino is produced from Tuscany's celebrated Sangiovese grape but this one grape expresses itself in infinite ways based on terroir and winemaking technique. Tenute Silvio Nardi has extensively invested in development and research to select the best Sangiovese clones. They also focus on creating terroir-driven wines from their estates. Truly a family affair, Emilia's nephew, Emanuele Nardi, has held the prestigious position of winemaker since 2008.


 
Tenute Silvio Nardi Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2016 ($29.99) is an affordable and elegant introduction to their wine style. Matured in oak casks for only six months, the wine retains impressive youth and freshness. Lovely flavors of fresh ripe cherry and pomegranate meld seamlessly with fine tannins and a hint of clove and pepper. Elegant but easygoing! 



Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012 ($64.99) blends the finest Sangiovese grapes from their Manachiara and Casale del Bosco estates. Aged for 12 months in French oak barriques, 18 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, and bottle aged at least 12 months before release; this wine goes on quite a journey. Of course, this extensive and elaborate aging process makes Brunello more intense than the younger Rosso but it still displays impressive freshness because of its lively acidity. Layered and complex, it has bold red and black berry flavors, hints of licorice, clove, and herbs. Round and velvety with great structure, this Brunello will age beautifully. When buying Brunello, Emilia recommends getting 3 bottles "1 for now, 1 to drink in 10 years, 1 to drink in 20 years."



Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino Manachiara DOCG 2012 ($114.99) is a single-vineyard superstar. The Manachiara estate was purchased in 1962 and the Manachiara vineyard has vines that are about 50 years old -- the estate's oldest. These mature vines produce grapes with impressive character and flavor and this Brunello conveys that beautifully. Rich and supple, it is an alluring melange of intense fruit with vibrant floral and spice notes with gripping minerality. This wine will grow even more captivating as time goes by. 


Do you still doubt the aging potential of a finely crafted Brunello di Montalcino? During our dinner, Emilia surprised us with some old vintages, including this impressive 1968! Even at 50 years old, it showed outstanding structure and nuance -- an excellent bellwether for younger vintages of Tenute Silvio Nardi wines.