Wine With Wanda

The World in Your Wine Glass: 5 Sensational Sips from Spain

image courtesy of Bodegas LAN

The COVID-19 pandemic may have put the kibosh on travel, but don’t let it stifle your wanderlust. Cocooned in my Manhattan living room, wine helps me to maintain a connection to the soul and soil of places that I love and to get acquainted with places I’ve yet to explore. Spain holds a special place in my heart. I studied in Barcelona and Toledo and those two years abroad changed my life in countless ways. From home-cooked meals lovingly prepared by my host family to tipsy tapas crawls with friends, Spain was my true introduction to the culinary and cultural importance of wine. During this time of social distancing, take your palate on an adventure to España. Stay safe, stay home, sip the world!


Ànima Negra “Quíbia” 2018 ($20)
Fresh and crisp, with a hint of sexy salinity, Ànima Negra “Quíbia” 2018 is an off-the-beaten-path sip from the island of Mallorca. A blend of the indigenous grapes Callet, Premsal, and Muscat-Giró, it is a beautifully balanced white wine with loads of texture and finesse. I visited Mallorca many years ago and this wine brought back memories of its azure Mediterranean waters and balmy breezes.


 
Pagos del Galir Godello 2018 ($21)
Say hola to Godello! This gorgeous sip from the Valdeorras DO in Galicia, Spain is no wimpy white wine. Round and juicy, Pagos del Galir Godello 2018 has flavors of grapefruit, lemon zest, white melon, and a sassy touch of salinity. If you’ve never tasted Godello, this is a lovely introduction.

Baron de Ley Varietales Tempranillo Rioja 2017 ($11)
This charmer from Rioja has round and rich red fruit flavors that are balanced by a hint of spice and earth. Juicy with great acidity and a long finish, this is a lovely wine at a fantastic price.



Bodegas LAN "Culmen" Reserva Rioja 2011 ($69)
Ready to splurge? Yes, Culmen is on the pricier side, but this special wine is worth it. First produced in 1994, the Latin name Culmen was chosen to signal that this wine is a culmination of fine winemaking, a wine at the apex of authenticity and elegance. A blend of 88% Tempranillo and 12% Graciano from a single parcel of old vines that are 40-60 years old, Culmen Reserva 2011 was aged for 26 months in new French oak barrels yet retains an impressive freshness and vitality. Constantly evolving in the glass, Culmen takes your palate on a journey. Sultry red and black fruit flavors and accents of spice, licorice, earth, and smoke make Culmen a complete and captivating wine experience.

Harveys Bristol Cream Solera Sherry ($17)
Although Harveys Bristol Cream has been around since 1882 and is the best-selling Sherry in the world, I had never tasted it until recently. Well, this oldie but goodie is quite the little charmer. Sweet but not sticky, it has gorgeous nutty flavors along with rich flavors of figs, honey, raisin, caramel, and toffee. A sweet ending to a day of social distancing!

Ciao, Gattinara!: There's Something Special About Travaglini

Cinzia Travaglini and her daughter Alessia Collauto Travaglini represent the 4th and 5th generations of their family's prestigious winery in the Gattinara region of Piemonte. 

Don’t let Gattinara’s tiny size fool you; its 100 hectares produce some of Italy’s most intriguing wines. And no serious conversation or tasting of Gattinara is complete without Travaglini. Not only does the Travaglini family’s 59 hectares represent more than half of Gattinara’s total size, their pioneering winemaking techniques, such as experimenting with barrique, are credited with elevating the quality and reputation of Gattinara.

Located in the northwest of Italy in Piemonte, Gattinara once spanned almost 600 acres and is actually an older winemaking region than Barolo. But phylloxera and a devasting hail storm destroyed the region and by 1905 winemaking had been abandoned. The Travaglini family has owned land in Gattinara since the beginning of the 19^th century and made small amounts of wine for local consumption but it wasn’t until 1958 that Travaglini Estate Winery was officially created.

image courtesy of Travaglini

I was recently invited to a tasting of Travaglini Gattinara with the dynamic mother and daughter team of Cinzia Travaglini and Alessia Collauto Travaglini. Their passion and poise were inspiring. I left the tasting with the feeling that the Travaglini family doesn’t just make wine, they ARE wine. Wine unites them as a family, it is their legacy and their future.  

Like Barolo, Gattinara DOCG wines are produced from 100% Nebbiolo. Travaglini’s wines have a finesse and freshness that can be attributed to the cooling winds of the nearby Alps. Of course, masterful winemaking is required to ensure that the natural beauty of these Nebbiolo grapes is not destroyed by over-manipulation. Gattinara’s judicious use of oak enhances and frames the flavors of Nebbiolo without dominating it. “Produce quality, maintain quality” is the Travaglini philosophy, said Cinzia. Cinzia’s husband, Massimo Collauto, assumed the role of chief winemaker from his father-in-law and mentor Giancarlo Travaglini and carries on this tradition. 


Another thing that you’ll notice about Travaglini is the distinctive shape of their bottle. Designed by Giancarlo Travaglini in 1958, the design cleverly catches sediment during pouring, eliminating the need for decanting. The dark color prevents light from passing through and negatively impacting the quality of the wine. Travagalini’s wines are made to age and the bottle design nurtures that process. 

Nebbiolo Coste Della Sesia DOC 2017 ($20.99), Travaglini’s entry level wine, is a fresh and fruit-forward introduction to their style. Aged in stainless steel (4 months) and Slavonian oak casks (10 months), it is crisp and easy to drink with crunchy red fruit flavors and a kiss of spice & herbs. A lighter-bodied red, you can even serve this slightly chilled.



Gattinara DOCG 2015 ($32.99)
Nebbiolo is often described as tasting of tar and roses and this wine elegantly expresses the grape’s grit and grace. Aged for 3 years in Slavonian oak casks, this full-bodied wine has a sinewy muscularity that keeps its red fruit and herbal flavors buoyant and not clunky.



Gattinara Tre Vigne DOCG 2013 ($49.99) is a blend of three single vineyard sites. The combination of Nebbiolo grapes from these unique sites creates a harmonious wine that is full and juicy with flavors of cherry, rose water, truffle, and black pepper. Aged for 4 years in Slavonian oak casks.

Gattinara Riserva DOCG 2013 ($59.99) is produced from Nebbiolo grapes from the best parcels in Travaglini’s oldest vineyards (35-60 years old). Aged for 3 years in Slavonian oak casks, its red fruit flavors are accented by hints of clove and bitter chocolate. 

Il Sogno 2014 ($127.99), which translates to “The Dream”, was inspired in name and style by Cinzia’s father, Giancarlo. A fan of Sforzato wines from Valtellina that are crafted from dried Nebbiolo grapes, Giancarlo imagined creating a similar wine in Gattinara. For Il Sogno, hand-harvested Nebbiolo grapes were air-dried for 100 days to intensify their flavors and sugars. The grapes were fermented once 50% of their water content evaporated. Aged for 40 months in Slavonian oak casks, it is rich, luscious, and sweet but good acidity and pops of spice save it from being cloying. A really beautiful vino! 


image courtesy of Travaglini

If you’re planning a trip to Piemonte, Travaglini welcomes visitors. Reservations required. 

A True Taste of Trentino: Ferrari Trentodoc Sparkling Wine

How can air be this fresh? My Manhattan lungs weren’t quite prepared for Trentino’s intense infusion of clean and crisp mountain air. I greedily gulped it in. My goodness, it was delicious. I felt absolutely rejuvenated. With air like this, Ferrari sparkling wines start off with a strong advantage — grapes that have been caressed day-in and day-out by the pristine mountain breezes that flow through Ferrari’s vineyards in the northeast of Italy. Lucky grapes.


Founded in 1902 by Giulio Ferrari, Ferrari is the most awarded and renowned producer of one of Italy’s finest wines: Trentodoc. Inspired by Champagne, Ferrari was determined to show the world that Italy could produce elegant sparkling wines with character and complexity. Recognizing that the soil and climate of Trentino provided the ideal conditions for his venture, Ferrari is credited for Italy's first significant plantings of Chardonnay. The name Trentodoc cleverly combines Trento, the wine’s city of origin, with DOC, (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), an official designation used to classify Italian wines. Produced in the same labor-intensive manner as Champagne, Ferrari and all Trentodoc wines are crafted using the Metodo Classico and its bubbles are created by a second fermentation in the bottle.

In 1952, Giulio Ferrari, who had no children, selected Bruno Lunelli, the owner of a wine shop in Trento, as his successor. Today, the third generation of the Lunelli family, Marcello, Camilla, Matteo, and Alessandro, are keeping the legacy alive and enchanting wine lovers around the world with their excellent wines and sparkling attitude. 

As an unabashed lover of sparkling wines, I’ve been a fan of Ferrari Trentodoc since I was introduced to their wines several years ago. I quickly noticed that my enthusiasm for Ferrari’s elegant bubbles was shared by my Italian friends living in my hometown of NYC. Whenever I showed up with a bottle of Ferrari, there were audible oohs and aahs of appreciation and anticipation. For them, Ferrari isn’t just a taste of home but a testament to fine Italian craftsmanship and the sanctity of celebration. Toasting with Ferrari means the moment, big or small, matters.

Freshly harvested Ferrari Chardonnay grapes.

The method is the same, and even the grapes, primarily Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but make no mistake, Trentodoc is no pale imitation of Champagne. These “sparkling wines from the mountains” stand on their own. As stated on the Trentodoc website, “Trentodoc is the expression of the land it comes from, Trentino. Trentodoc expresses its climate, high altitudes, and essence. From the highest Alpine peaks to the Mediterranean climes of the foothills where the temperatures are mitigated by the Ora del Garda winds, and the continental climate in the valley, every glass is unique and carries the character of its place of origin.”

Marcello Lunelli, Ferrari's chief winemaker, was animated and passionate during our vineyard stroll. 

It’s almost become a cliché but some variation of the phrase “great wine starts in the vineyards” has become a mantra for winemakers around the globe. But what does that really mean? Marcello Lunelli, Ferrari’s chief winemaker, emphasized that Ferrari’s wines don’t exist in isolation, they are an expression of the territory. “The fingerprint of a company like Ferrari is the territory. Without territory, you are nothing,” Marcello insisted.

Pinot Noir grapes at Ferrari awaiting the perfect moment for harvesting. 

Even with their impressive output of 5.5 million bottles per year, which represents 20% of Italy’s total production of Metodo Classico wines, Ferrari’s wines are never generic. To maintain a true taste of territory in every bottle; all of their grapes come from mountain vineyards. The warm days and cool nights of these higher altitude vineyards have a tangible impact on the grapes, imbuing them with an expressive range of flavors and aromas. Ferrari owns 100 hectares of certified organic vineyards and sustainability protocols are in place for their 600 grape growers.

Ferrari knows that fostering biodiversity in the vineyard is essential to growing healthy grapes. Bees are important partners in building a strong eco-system. 

Exported to more than 50 countries, Ferrari is not only the toast of Italy but beloved around the globe. And the experts have noticed. In 2019, The Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships recognized Ferrari as Sparkling Wine Producer of the Year. I concur that Ferrari’s wines hold their own against, and often outshine, other high-quality, traditional method sparkling wines.


During my visit to Ferrari, they confidently hosted a comparative tasting of their wines alongside some of the most celebrated traditional method wines from Italy and France. In my estimation, from non-vintage to top cuvée, single-varietal or blend, in each category Ferrari either dominated or tied but never faltered. Under the innovative and passionate leadership of the Lunelli family, Giulio Ferrari’s dream of producing world-class sparkling wines has been achieved. 

Are you ready to take your palate on a sparkling adventure with Ferrari? Here are a few of my favorite sips from their impressive portfolio.


Ferrari Brut Trentodoc ($27.99) was my dazzling introduction to Ferrari and never fails to impress me. Consistently crisp and clean, this 100% Chardonnay bubbly has the perfect balance between fresh flavors of citrus and apple with a hint of bready yeast.

A blend of Pinot Noir (60%) and Chardonnay (40%), Ferrari Brut Rosé Trentodoc ($35.99) is brazenly pretty with an elegant and streamlined structure. Like a ballerina, it twirls gracefully across the palate with flavors of fresh raspberry, strawberry, and a hint of crunchy red apple.


Ferrari Perlé 2013 Trentodoc ($42.99) is an excellent example of how beautifully an impeccably crafted Trentodoc can age. 100% Chardonnay, it is the more complex and nuanced companion to the Ferrari Brut. There’s a sultry smokiness to its citrus flavors. Hints of almond and warm bread crust are elegant traits found consistently throughout the Ferrari Trentodoc portfolio.

100% Chardonnay, Ferrari Riserva Lunelli 2009 Trentodoc ($64.99) spent an impressive minimum seven years aging on the lees. That extended yeast contact imbues it with a luxurious richness and complexity. Juicy and round with accents of toasty lemon meringue and a kiss of spice; this is a sexy and sophisticated sip. 

Last on my list but very far from least, Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore Trentodoc 2007 ($134.99) is one of my favorite wines that I tasted last year. 100% Chardonnay, it is a multi-dimensional sparkling wine with an expansive and elegant range of flavors and textures. Crisp, mineral, fruity, floral, and nutty with touches of honey and soft spice, it’s all in the glass. This is a wine to savor.

As a wine writer, and most importantly, a wine lover; I love trying new wines from every corner of the globe. But there’s an undeniable comfort and satisfaction in finding a producer that crafts wines that keep you coming back year after year. Consistently elegant, nuanced, festive, and drinkable, Ferrari Trentodoc adds an essential spark of joy and beauty to every occasion.


If you're planning a trip to Italy, Ferrari welcomes visitors for tours and tastings. And for an exceptional wine & dine experience, make a reservation at Ferrari's Michelin-starred restaurant, Locanda Margon.

Falling in Love (Again) with Malbec from Mendoza

Just like people, a familiar wine can still surprise you. Malbec from Argentina is one of the world’s most popular wines, and deservedly so. But I’m always disheartened when people lump all Malbec into one category as if there’s a central factory in Argentina where bunches of homogeneous grapes are dumped into a vat and voila, there’s vino! Don’t get me wrong, every wine producing country churns out its share of generic wines, but it would be a terrible mistake to place all Argentine Malbec in that dodgy category.


image courtesy of Luigi Bosca

Malbec is Argentina's most cultivated variety and Mendoza accounts for 75% of Argentina’s wine production. When I visited Mendoza in 2015, I was swept away by the region’s beauty, hospitality, and vibrant wine culture. Malbec and Mendoza have fueled the country’s reputation as a wine powerhouse. But the best Argentine winemakers aren’t content to simply make good wine, they are passionate about crafting great wines that express Malbec’s authentic essence. Wines of Argentina describes Malbec as "Noted for its intense dark colour and fruit explosion, Malbec offers a wide range of aromatic profiles associated with its terroir. In general, its aromas are reminiscent of cherries, strawberries, plums, raisins and black pepper and in some cases, cooked fruits. Aged in oak, it acquires notes of coffee, vanilla and chocolate. In the mouth it fills the palate with its sweet, silky tannins."

Over the past few months, I’ve had the opportunity to meet with several Argentine winemakers during their visits to New York City. Each has a different approach to winemaking, but each expressed the sentiment that great wines start in the vineyard. Malbec’s flavor and quality are greatly influenced by factors such as altitude, soil type, vine age, and terroir. Winemakers are experimenting with those variables to craft high quality Malbec with distinct personalities.

“Wine is to please people, pair with food, and share with friends.”
Pablo Cúneo, Winemaker, Luigi Bosca

For Malbec aficionados, Luigi Bosca is a beloved and familiar name. Founded in 1901 by Spanish immigrant Leoncio Arizu, more than 100 years later the third and fourth generations of his family are still running the winery. The Arizu family has played a priceless role in introducing Argentine Malbec to the world. Their chief winemaker, Pablo Cúneo believes that “Malbec chose Argentina.”

It’s certainly true that although Malbec’s roots are in France, it has thrived in Argentina and adapted exceptionally well to the desert climate of Mendoza. Pablo reminded me that the clean water melting down from the snow-capped Andes Mountains not only irrigates the dry soils but also imbues the wines with freshness. Luigi Bosca’s more than 1,700 acres of vineyards in Mendoza are located at altitudes between 780 and 1,300 meters in Lujan de Cuyo, Maipú, and Valle de Uco. Why does altitude matter? Proximity to sunlight intensifies the flavors of the grapes but in Mendoza that power is balanced out by moderate winds and low humidity.

Recommended Wines:

Luigi Bosca Malbec 2017 ($20) is a great introduction to their style. Juicy and supple with vibrant red fruit flavors, sweet tannins, and a touch of graphite and spice.



Luigi Bosca Los Miradores Malbec 2016 ($30) is bigger and more intense but impressively balanced and elegant. The grapes were sourced exclusively from Finca Los Miradores, which has an altitude of 1,150 meters. A sexy spiciness adds sass and energy to its flavors of blackberries, violet, espresso, and chocolate.



Bodegas CARO estate manager Philippe Rolet was born in raised in the Jura region of France, where his family owned the second largest wine estate in the region. Philippe gained additional winemaking experience in Bordeaux, Hungary, and other wineries in Argentina before joining Bodegas CARO in 2019.

Malbec was actually introduced to Argentina by a Frenchman in 1868 so there’s something poetic about a winery that pays homage to both traditions. Malbec fully embraces its French heritage and Argentine identity at Bodegas CARO, an alliance between two respected wine families, Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) from Bordeaux and Nicolás Catena from Mendoza. Bodegas CARO began in 1999 but draws on generations of expertise – both families have been making wine since the 19^th century. Bodegas CARO is not only focused on Malbec, they are also committed to showing that Cabernet Sauvignon can flourish in Mendoza. Their vineyards are located in Lujan de Cuyo, Maipú, and Valle de Uco.

Recommended Wines: 


Bodegas CARO ARUMA Malbec 2017 ($16.99)
Crafted from 100% Malbec, ARUMA means “night” in Quechua, the language of native Indians in Mendoza. “We chose this name because it is the intense darkness of the nights in the Andes and the pure mountain air that give the wines the rich, authentic character of their terroir.” Juicy and velvety with low tannins it is fresh and fruit-forward, this is a very pretty Malbec.



Bodegas CARO Amancaya Reserve Red Blend 2017 ($21.99) 
Philippe said, “With this wine we enter the universe of CARO.” Malbec (70%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) are a perfect match in this gorgeous red blend. Bold and juicy, its elegant and rich red and black fruit flavors are robust but not flabby and get extra verve from hints of spice and pepper.

“The time is right for a ‘style update’ of our wines and Valle de Uco is the ideal location for this project. I am confident that we will be able to elevate our super-premium and icon labels, Particular and Enzo Bianchi, to show that Bodegas Bianchi wines rank among the highest-quality coming from Argentina.”
Silvio Alberto, Chief Winemaker & Agronomist, Bodegas Valentin Bianchi

When Italian immigrant Valentin Bianchi founded his eponymous winery in 1928, near the town of San Rafael in the southernmost part of Mendoza, could he have imagined that his grandchildren and great-grandchildren would still own the family business more than 90 years later? Not only have they been stewards of Bianchi’s original winery, they have taken his legacy to new heights with their fairly recent acquisition of 420 acres in the Uco Valley, one of Mendoza’s most prestigious winemaking regions.

30 years ago, a university professor actually told Silvio Alberto, Bianchi’s chief winemaker and agronomist, that the Uco Valley was not good for wine. Even well-meaning experts make mistakes and the quality of Uco Valley wines beautifully contradicts that falsehood. Alberto joined the Bianchi team in 2017 and brings with him a wealth of experience working with many of Argentina’s most prestigious wineries. From the vineyard to the cellar, Alberto is an expert on all things wine related, but during our tasting I was most impressed by his enthusiasm and clear passion for the wines that he makes. While some winemakers try to play coy when tasting their own wines, Alberto would smile and say “Ah, this is good” when sipping a Bianchi wine that clearly moved him. “Our philosophy is fruit,” said Alberto. Regardless of varietal, barrel treatment, or vintage, at Bianchi they always want the essence of the grape to shine through.

Recommended Wines:

Bianchi Particular Malbec 2017 ($30.99)
100% Malbec from Bianchi’s vineyards in San Rafael, this voluptuous vino shows that Malbec can wow even the most jaded drinker. Luscious and rich, its beautifully knit tapestry of flavors includes dark and red fruits, chocolate, espresso, spice, and gentle tannins.

Gran Famiglia Bianchi Corte 2017 ($29.99)
Malbec can clearly stand on its own but this blend shows how beautifully it plays with other grapes. A blend of Malbec (59%), Petit Verdot (23%), Merlot (11%), Cabernet Sauvignon (4%), Tannat (3%), this is not a wimpy wine but it maintains an elegant restraint that prevents it from being over-the-top. Rich fruit, spice, earth, mineral, pepper – it’s all in this glass!

The portfolios of Luigi Bosca, Bodegas CARO, and Valentin Bianchi contain more wines than I could ever include in one article. And while Malbec is Mendoza’s undisputed leading lady, each of these wineries, and their peers, are making amazing wines with other grape varieties. I encourage you to take a trip to Mendoza and immerse yourself in their charming wine lifestyle. Until then, reacquaint yourself with Mendoza’s marvelous Malbec. You won't be disappointed! 

Sip and Savor a Magical Place in Spain with Secastilla Garnacha 2014

Oh, the stories that old vines tell. Are you listening? Secastilla Garnacha 2014 ($39.99) reveals a captivating tale of 100-year-old Garnacha vines, tucked away like a precious treasure, in a majestic hilltop vineyard in an ancient valley in Somontano, Spain.

I’ve visited Secastilla three times and it always feels like a fairy tale. And while every good fairy tale has a castle, Secastilla has seven -- its name, Septcastelum in Latin, was inspired by the seven castles that once dominated the landscape. The actual structures may be gone but you can feel the magnetic pull of this land that inspired the Romans to lay claim to it. There’s an undeniable magic in Secastilla’s fresh mountain air, soaring altitude, and stony soils. You can taste it in the wine.

Full of soul and spirit, Secastilla Garnacha 2014 has an impressive purity. It displays a crispness and freshness that connects directly to the flavor of a perfectly ripened Garnacha grape plucked from those hardy centenarian vines. Aged for 10 months in French oak, that time in wood beautifully enhances the flavor of the Garnacha without obscuring its essence. A beguiling balance of finesse and rusticity, Secastilla Garnacha envelops the palate with rich & juicy fruit and a tinge of spice wrapped around a stony mineral core. Delicious now, this vino has the structure and finesse needed to age gracefully. I think time will only reveal more of its charms.

Under the leadership of Viñas del Vero winemaker and manager Jose Ferrer, the 2012 vintage of Secastilla Garnacha was recognized as the best red wine in Spain at the International Wine Challenge. Jose never imagined that one day that he would make wine in the very same vineyards he wandered as a child with his father. 

Secastilla is never far from my mind but my thoughts wander there with more frequency during the winter months when the cold and dark seem to be in collusion to steal my joy. A bottle of Secastilla Garnacha instantly brings me back to those blissful moments walking the vineyards and touching the gnarly old vines that yield such beautiful fruit. And I’ve had the privilege of walking that special land each time with one of my favorite winemakers, Jose Ferrer.

If you’re planning a trip to Spain, I highly recommend traveling the Somontano wine route. Located in the northeast of Spain, south of the Pyrenees on the natural border with France, Somontano produces a diverse selection of high-quality wines. In addition to the stunning natural beauty of the vineyards, the region has great shops, places to dine, and tasting rooms. Aren’t you ready to create your own Spanish fairy tale?

Sip This: Catena Alta Historic Rows Chardonnay 2016

Rivaling misinformed Merlot bashers as some of the most annoying wine drinkers is the “anything but Chardonnay” crowd. In my events planning career, I once had to politely school a client who didn’t want to serve Chardonnay at her far-from-fancy cocktail reception because she said it wasn’t classy. Really? I think our friends in Burgundy would beg to differ. 

One of Chardonnay’s many charms is that it grows beautifully in wine regions around the globe. That has also been its downfall. Sadly, the market is flooded with many inferior wines that have sullied Chardonnay’s reputation. But when Chardonnay is produced with passion and integrity, few white wines can rival its capacity to transmit texture and terroir. And let's not forget Chardonnay's tremendous aging potential.  

I personally enjoy white wines all year-round, but I do find that I reach for richer and fuller-bodied white wines in the winter season, and many of those wines are Chardonnay. Like a luxurious cashmere sweater, these wines wrap themselves around you and warm your spirit. 

Catena Alta Historic Rows Chardonnay 2016 ($33) lingered in my memory long after the bottle was emptied. I sipped it at home in Manhattan but this impressive Chardonnay instantly transported me back to my 2015 visit to Mendoza, which included an unforgettable tasting and tour at Catena Zapata. Founded in 1902, Catena Zapata is truly one of Argentina’s winemaking pioneers. Knowing that great wine starts in the vineyard, this family-owned winery has devoted tremendous resources to analyzing their soils so that the grapes are cultivated in a manner that achieves optimum quality. Malbec may be Argentina’s signature grape but don’t ignore the wonderful Chardonnay being produced in this South American winemaking powerhouse. 

Adrianna Vineyard
(image courtesy of Catena Zapata)

The Chardonnay grapes for Catena Alta Historic Rows Chardonnay were sourced from select rows in two of their historic Andean vineyards: Adrianna and Domingo. According to the winery, “At almost 5,000 feet elevation in the Andean foothills, the Adrianna vineyard's calcareous soils and cool climate are the promised land of Chardonnay. The fruit from the Adrianna vineyard has a purity of flavors and a minerality that is particular to this vineyard and cannot be found anywhere else in Mendoza. The nearby, gravel-covered Domingo Vineyard makes up 20% of the blend.”

Catena Alta is a bold Chardonnay but impeccable balance keeps it from veering off the cliff towards the land of flabby and overwrought wines. With a snappy minerality, ripe fruit, lively acidity, and long finish, this is a Chardonnay that elegantly stands out from the crowd.

Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon Stands the Test of Time

The 1980’s will be remembered for many things: questionable fashions, great pop music, and for us wine geeks, the 1987 debut vintage of Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon. One of Chile’s most iconic and awarded wines, it didn’t take long for Don Melchor to captivate the wine world; the 1988 vintage was the first Chilean wine recognized by Wine Spectator as one of the Top 100 Wines of the World. It has been honored on this prestigious list nine times, including three times in the coveted Top 10.

I’ll confess that I was unaware of Don Melchor’s impressive pedigree when I first tasted the wine several years ago. I approached the wine with no expectations and was authentically swept away by Don Melchor’s beauty, complexity, and drinkability. It is truly a personal favorite. Its many accolades are certainly well-deserved, but at the end of the day the wine has to speak for itself and Don Melchor is poetry in a bottle.


“For me, Don Melchor represents the constant search for the best expression of every vine in the vineyard in order to achieve the beauty of balance of the Puente Alto terroir in every vintage." 
Enrique Tirado, Winemaker

I recently had the pleasure of meeting Don Melchor’s winemaker, Enrique Tirado. Our tasting featured the current 30^th anniversary 2017 vintage, the inaugural 1987 vintage, and several others spanning three decades. It was quite a journey through time. The wines had evolved beautifully and while each expressed the peculiarities of that particular vintage, they shared an enduring freshness and balance.


image courtesy of Don Melchor

“Don Melchor is not a single Cabernet Sauvignon, but multiple expressions,” said Enrique. He isn’t speaking metaphorically but literally: their historic Puente Alto vineyard at the foot of the Andes Mountains is grouped into seven blocks that are further divided into more than 150 parcels. Each parcel offers a unique expression that varies from year to year. Enrique methodically selects from these parcels to create a complex but harmonious tapestry of wine. 


Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($120) blends Cabernet Sauvignon (98%) with a kiss of Cabernet Franc (2%). Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, it has rich red berry flavors that are accented by subtle hints of spice and earth. A bold red, Don Melchor certainly has heft but its signature freshness and vitality keep it graceful and elegant. For the Cabernet Sauvignon lovers in your life, Don Melchor is a gift that is certain to wow them. Santa, if you’re reading this, I’ve been pretty good this year, por favor put a bottle of Don Melchor in my stocking!  

If you're planning a visit to Chile, Don Melchor welcomes guests for their Collectors Experience, which includes a tour of the grounds, cellar, and tasting. 

Sip This: Lassègue Saint Émilion Grand Cru 2016

Trends come and go but Bordeaux is timeless. In a world of ever-changing wine fads, there’s something reassuring about sipping an Old World wine with a long tradition. But don’t mistake tradition for stagnation. Each vintage and each producer has a unique story to tell.

Since being introduced to Lassègue Saint Émilion Grand Cru several years ago, I’ve started to anticipate the subtle variations created in each vintage by that year’s climate conditions at their vineyards on the Right Bank of the Dordogne River. Will the wine be bigger and more robust because of a heat wave? Or more subdued because of cooler conditions? How will Lassègue’s winemaker, the acclaimed Pierre Seillan, adjust the blend in response to those variations? Lassègue consistently impresses me with their ability to create a wine that is an authentic representation of each particular vintage yet remains true to their style and terroir.

Château Lassègue was built in 1738. The striking structure and its 60 acres of vineyards were purchased by the Jackson and Seillan families in 2003. 
image courtesy of Château Lassègue

Lassègue Saint Émilion Grand Cru 2016 ($60) is a blend of Merlot (60%), Cabernet Franc (33%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (7%) from old vines with an average age of 40-60 years. According to the winery, “The 2016 vintage was characterised by a mild and wet winter and spring, followed by warm, sunny and dry conditions from July through harvest.” And “the dry and sunny summer helped the vines to flourish, resulting in perfectly healthy grapes at harvest.” The beautiful balance and vitality of this wine reflects the influence of those ideal conditions.

image courtesy of Château Lassègue

Luscious and rich but not overwhelming, 2016 Lassègue was aged for 12 months in French oak and has bold flavors of blackberry and plum with tangy pops of black licorice, dark chocolate, espresso bean, sweet clove, and earthy truffles. Vibrant acidity and a minerality that is delicately chalky with a thread of steely flint, make the wine lively and approachable without diminishing its grandeur. This is an exceptionally elegant Bordeaux. 

Sparkling Spotlight: Champagne Palmer & Co. Brut Réserve

What do you like to drink on a snowy day? Some people like a steamy cup of hot cocoa, I prefer a crisp glass of Champagne! As snow frosted the streets of Manhattan, I was warm and cozy inside with a bottle of Champagne Palmer & Co. Brut Réserve ($60). And since the first snow fall of the season is a special occasion, it only seemed fitting to pair it with Pearl Street Caviar Siberian Select (prices start at $25). You may call it decadent, I call it my snow day survival kit!


image courtesy of Champagne Palmer & Co.

A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier from the most prestigious terroirs in the Champagne region, Champagne Palmer Brut Réserve is full-bodied and vivacious. Aged four years on the lees, it is crisp and clean with delicate bubbles and a subtle creaminess. It pirouettes across the palate with flavors of lemon sorbet, golden apple, Japanese pear, and intriguing hints of ginger, hazelnut, and buttery brioche woven into the strong mineral core. A very elegant and delicious bubbly that is perfect on snowy days, sunny days, sultry nights, and more, Champagne Palmer & Co.’s flagship wine is quite impressive.  

image courtesy of Champagne Palmer & Co.

Founded more than 70 years ago by seven grower families with prized Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards in the Montagne de Reims region, the Champagne Palmer & Co. team clearly knows that great wine starts in the vineyards and you can taste the terroir and exceptional quality of the grapes in the bold and balanced Brut Réserve. 

Get in the Holiday Spirit with German Wines!

So much wine, so little time. But that’s not a reason to be discouraged. Go ahead and seize the opportunity to sip out of your comfort zone. We all have our favorite wines and regions but exploration is also an important part of the wine drinking experience. If you’re looking for expertly made, moderately priced, and simply delicious wines to serve this holiday season, German wines merit your consideration. Trust me, you’re likely to find some new favorites and your guests will say Danke for introducing them to some fantastic wines.


To make your foray into German wines stress-free, snag this great 4-pack from Snooth. Specially priced at $100 (full value, $150) it includes one sparkling white, two still white wines, and one red. To learn more about the wines featured in the gift pack, you can also watch Snooth’s virtual tasting, led by sommelier Sarah Tracey. Sarah describes German wines as “hidden treats and treasures” and praises their freshness and flavors.

The four wines featured in the Snooth 4-pack are listed below.  

Fitz Ritter Sekt, Pfalz, NV
They really love their bubbles in Germany – they are #1 in the world for sparkling wine consumption! But they don’t just pop bottles from other countries, Germany also produces their own sparkling wine, which they call Sekt. This selection of Fitz Ritter Sekt is crafted from 100% Riesling. Fresh and fruity, it is an elegant way to greet your guests. It also pairs beautifully with cheeses and charcuterie. 

Weingut Rudolf May Retzstadt Silvaner, Franken, 2016
What’s old is new again! Silvaner may not be a household name now but in the 1900’s it was Germany’s top white wine. Robust, earthy, bone-dry, mineral, and herbal; this intriguing wine is growing in popularity and is a great match with veggies and poultry. And the unusual bottle shape is certainly a conversation starter -- apparently it was designed to not roll down the mountain if it fell while sipping outdoors! 

Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Noble House Riesling, Mosel, 2018
Contrary to popular belief, Riesling isn’t always sweet. In fact, dry German Rieslings are more popular than ever. This medium-sweet and low-alcohol Riesling is one of those magical wines that can pair with almost everything from a meaty main course to dessert.

Messmer Spätburgunder, Pfalz, 2015 
Germany is the third largest producer of Pinot Noir in the world, just behind France and the USA. Known as Spätburgunder, Pinot Noir thrives in Germany’s cool climate. This intriguing biodynamic selection has beautiful herbal and savory flavors. A great match with roast duck or pork chops.

If You’re Not Drinking Merlot, You’re Missing Out!

 

image courtesy of MerlotMe

It baffles and perturbs me that some wine drinkers are still shunning Merlot. Really, if THAT movie (Sideways) has placed negative thoughts about Merlot in your head, please consider this an intervention. Now is the time to replace that problematic film’s erroneous messaging with this mantra: Merlot is elegant. Merlot is delicious. Merlot bashers are missing out on some mighty fine wine.

image courtesy of MerlotMe

Praised for its lushness and approachability, Merlot isn't aggressive but it's no wimp; it absolutely has the capacity for power and finesse. I was recently invited to participate in the #MerlotMe campaign, an online effort focused on sharing the diversity and beauty of Merlot. I was happy to add my voice to the powerful chorus of Merlot lovers.  

During the duration of the campaign, I tasted many excellent wines that were powerful examples of Merlot's many charms. However, there were three wines that really captivated me. Whether you’re a Merlot devotee or one of those pesky detractors, I’m convinced these wines will impress you. And although my selections are from California, great Merlot wines are produced around the globe. Get a glass and explore!


Pahlmeyer Merlot 2016, Napa Valley, California ($90) 
What a majestic Merlot! I shared this bottle with one of the most discerning sommeliers I know and he shared my enthusiasm for this exceptional wine. Truly, he can’t stop singing its praises. And I can’t blame him. Pahlmeyer is an elegant retort to Merlot bashing. Rich and concentrated but not unwieldy, it is supple and rich with voluptuous berry flavors and sassy hints of spice and tinges of earth and herbs. As the flavors open in the glass, it really takes you on a journey. This is a wine to savor.
96.5% Merlot, 2.5% Malbec, 1% Cabernet Sauvignon


Seavey Merlot 2016, Napa Valley, California ($65)
Plush and rich, this impressive wine beautifully showcases Merlot’s capacity for complexity and finesse. Gorgeous plum and dark berry flavors get added oomph from hints of savory herbs, violet, graphite, and chocolate. There’s a rugged minerality to this Merlot that melds seamlessly with the voluptuous fruit. Only 302 cases made of this sensational sip.
95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon

Chelsea Goldschmidt Merlot 2017, Salmon’s Leap, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California ($20)
Named after winemaker Nick Goldschmidt’s daughter, Chelsea Merlot is feisty and elegant. Rich and juicy but not jammy, Chelsea has ripe red and black fruit flavors with perky pops of spice and graphite. A really pretty and polished wine that doesn’t break the bank!
100% Merlot

Sparkling Spotlight: Meet Régis Camus, The Rare Talent Who Makes Rare Champagne

It takes a winemaker with exceptional talent and confidence to craft a champagne that lives up to the audacious name Rare. Régis Camus is such a winemaker. Quite frankly, Régis is the standard by which I judge all other champagne makers. And I’m not alone in my high opinion of his skills – Régis has been honored 8 times as Sparkling Winemaker of the Year by the International Wine Challenge. Yes, Régis has clearly mastered the art of making bubbly.

In 2018, Régis retired from Piper-Heidsieck after a tenure of 22 years, including 16 years in the prestigious role of cellar master. But you would have been foolish to count him out. Régis is now the cellar master for the House’s exclusive Rare Champagne. Produced only in the most exceptional vintages, only 11 vintages of Rare have been created in the last four decades. 

Over the years, I’ve had the honor of tasting several vintages of Rare with Régis. The exquisite beauty of Rare Champagne is rivaled only by his humility and humor. In our laughter-filled tastings, it has become clear to me that making champagne isn’t just his career, it is Régis’s calling. The accolades are certainly well-deserved but I am convinced that Régis would pour his heart into making exquisite champagne even if no one noticed. But we do notice.

Rare is always released to great fanfare and Champagne connoisseurs know that only exceptional bottles of bubbly are worthy of being bottled as Rare. It is vital for Régis that Rare Champagne has spicy notes and he told me that he will only deem a vintage Rare if freshness, minerality, and exotic notes are there. If not, he won’t make it. For that reason, no vintage was declared since 2002, until 2006.

“Rare Millésime 2006 is immediately delectable, both oriental and fresh, mature and warm. Thanks to its almost paradoxical mineral and opulent tautness, it shows substantial potential for expression.”
Régis Camus

Régis always provides succinct descriptions that capture the essence of each Rare vintage and has declared Rare 2006 ($175) as SUNNY. In 2006, copious sunshine with moderate temperatures increased the opulence of the grapes. Always a blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, Régis said that Rare is always an “authentic image of the vintage.” Cellared for thirteen years, Rare 2006 has aged beautifully. It is very generous on the palate but still maintains a youthful energy. And its rich golden hue certainly evokes the warmth and brilliance of sunshine.

“I had already produced the first Rare Champagne rosé vintage in 2007. I took the liberty the following year of creating a successor, which would not be discovered until a decade later. Rare Rosé Millésime 2008 proves to be decisively graceful and mineral, much like a Mondrian, with nuances of quartz.”
Régis Camus

Rare Rosé 2008 ($450) is only the second vintage of rosé, Rare Rosé 2007 was the first. While the 2007 was described as SENSUAL, Régis has deemed Rare Rosé 2008 to be PRECISELY GRACIOUS. The first thing you notice is the beautiful shade of coppery pink, reminiscent of pink quartz. Régis spoke of the challenges of making the color consistent and his disdain for rosé that is more orange than pink. A blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, Régis is adamant that Rare Rosé display vibrant fruit and color but not aggressive tannins. Silky and delicate but impactful, Rare Rosé 2008 is sexy and elegant with a subtle sensuality. It swept me off my feet.

Yes, Rare 2006 and Rare Rosé 2008 are splurges but these impeccably crafted wines take you on a journey that reveals the unique power and beauty of vintage Champagne and the dedication, passion, and precision required to make wine at this level. With great anticipation, I await Régis’s declaration of the next Rare vintages.

Dramatic and Delicious: Celebrate 25 Years of Chilean Carmenere with Wines from Concha y Toro

I always like to describe Carmenere from Chile as the heroine of a dramatic telenovela (soap opera). After many years of mistaken identity, our leading lady’s true persona was discovered and she assumed her rightful post as belle of the ball. It’s hard to believe, but Carmenere, the red wine grape most closely associated with Chile, was not accurately identified until 25 years ago, on November 24, 1994.

image courtesy of Concha y Toro

Carmenere actually arrived in Chile in the 1800’s with other Bordeaux varieties. In 1867, that dastardly louse known as Phylloxera wiped out most of Bordeaux’s vineyards, including Carmenere. When vineyards were replanted in Bordeaux, Carmenere was not included due to its late ripening and susceptibility to disease. However, Carmenere was quietly thriving in Chile where it was mistakenly identified as a type of Merlot. This mistake lingered until 1994 when Jean Michel Boursiquot, a French ampelographer (grape identification expert), made the startling discovery that Chilean Merlot was actually Carmenere. Voila! Chilean winemaking would never be the same.

Carmenere Grapes
image courtesy Wines of Chile

If you’re a fan of Chilean wines, Concha y Toro is a familiar name. Their extensive portfolio includes entry-level everyday wines, high-end collectible wines, and wonderful mid-priced options. As one of Chile’s most important wineries, they have been instrumental in elevating the profile and quality of Carmenere. To taste the beauty and versatility of Carmenere, I recommend trying one of Concha y Toro’s selections from the Cachapoal Valley, Chile’s top region for Carmenere and home to one of Concha y Toro’s oldest vineyards.


Carmenere’s dramatic flavors correspond perfectly to its back story. The deepest, darkest, and most purple of the red grapes, Carmenere is generally described as having flavors of raspberry and other red fruits with hints of black pepper, paprika, and some green bell pepper vegetal flavors. Good acidity and mild tannins make Carmenere very easy to pair with a wide variety of foods. 

Terrunyo Carmenere Block 27 2017, D.O. Peumo, Cachapoal Valley ($41.99)
100% Carmenere. Aged 9 months in French oak barrels. Full and voluptuous with rich, but not overly ripe flavors of blueberries, wild berries, hints of cedar and violet, and soft tannins.

Marques de Casa Concha Carmenere 2017, D.O. Peumo, Cachapoal Valley ($26.99)
90% Carmenere and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 14 months in French oak barrels. Classic Carmenere flavors get added oomph with vibrant hints of ripe plums and dark chocolate from the Cabernet Sauvignon.

Serie Riberas Gran Riserva Carmenere 2017, D.O. Peumo, Cachapoal Valley ($15.99)
93.2% Carmenere, 6.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 0.6 %Merlot. Aged 10 months in French and American oak barrels. Silky and elegant, bold berry flavors with a subtle kick of spice. These vines are located on the banks of the Cachapoal River, which imbues the wine with a charming freshness.  

Sweet and Sophisticated: Dazzle Your Guests with Sweet Wines from Bordeaux

Who says sweet can’t be sexy and sophisticated? I promise you that mouths will water and a chorus of ooh la la’s will be uttered when you serve your guests a selection of elegant sweet wines from Bordeaux this holiday season. Contrary to some widely held misconceptions, sweet wines can be complex and full of finesse. The source of some of the world’s most celebrated and expensive sweet wines, Bordeaux also produces sweet wines that are budget-friendly but absolutely chic and delicious.

image courtesy of Sweet Bordeaux

Bordeaux may be most famous for their iconic red blends but sweet white wines make up a petite but important 2% of the region’s total production. In Bordeaux, sweet wines are produced primarily from Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle grapes. It is incredibly labor-intensive to produce quality sweet wines and while one vine can produce approximately an entire bottle of fine red wine, a vine only yields one glass of sweet wine.


No sugar is added in Bordeaux to enhance the sweetness of the wines; it comes naturally from the selection of perfectly ripened grapes and often from grapes that have been impacted by the poetically named Noble Rot. Officially known as Botrytis Cinerea, Noble Rot is a fungus that infects overripe grapes. A friendly fungus, Noble Rot concentrates the grape’s sugars and flavors but maintains the vital acidity that is needed to keep sweet wines lively and mouthwatering instead of sticky and cloying. Bordeaux’s location off the Atlantic coast in the southwest of France, creates an oceanic climate which is ideal for promoting the growth of the desired Noble Rot.

Sweet Bordeaux and oysters. A surprising but winning pairing that works because of the freshness and minerality of the wine.
image courtesy of Sweet Bordeaux

I recently took a deep dive into a selection of sweet Bordeaux wines via a virtual tasting hosted by Snooth and led by Jean K. Reilly, Master of Wine. Jean praised sweet wines from Bordeaux for their versatility and strongly believes that they shouldn’t just be reserved for special occasions. As Jean said these are “wines you can even have with Tuesday night dinner!” She even mentioned sweet Bordeaux as a surprisingly great match with barbecue. Bring on the baby back ribs and a bottle of sweet Bordeaux! And you really can’t beat the combination of sweet Bordeaux paired with something savory, like a beautiful blue cheese, liver paté, or charcuterie.

While many opt to serve sweet wines with desserts, Jean reminded us that they are called dessert wines because they were originally intended to BE the dessert and not paired with sweets. I agree. I often prefer to savor a glass of sweet wine at the end of a meal instead of a pastry. Because we sip sweet wines more slowly, remember to serve sweet Bordeaux wines icy cold. And to keep them from warming up too quickly, Jean recommends adding a piece of frozen dried ginger, mango, mandarin, or pineapple to the glass. Not only do these fruits mirror some of the aromas and flavors found in sweet Bordeaux, they will keep your wine cool without diluting the flavor. Sweet Bordeaux can also be used to make cocktails. Jean recommends mixing them with brown spirits or bitters like Amaro.

Are you ready to take your palate on a sweet journey to Bordeaux? The seven wines listed below are all delicious and affordable options. Sweet Bordeaux wines are produced in 8 designated areas on both banks of the Garonne river but all of the wines listed below are from the right bank.  

Château des Arroucats Sainte Croix du Mont 2017 ($14)
A blend of Sémillon and Sauvignon, this sweet wine from one of the most respected wineries in the appellation delivers plenty of bang for your buck. Exotic and spicy aromas with flavors of dried orange rind, spicy fruit cake, and orange liqueur.


Château Loupiac-Gaudiet 2016 ($17)
A big and luscious blend of Sémillon and Sauvignon, it is bold and fresh with flavors of marzipan, ginger candy, and honey.

Château Cousteau Cadillac 2016 ($18) 
Crisp and rich but impressively fresh and fruity with charming flavors of dried tropical fruit. Blend of Sémillon and Sauvignon.

Château du Cros Loupiac 2016 ($21)
A supple, velvety and fresh blend of Sémillon, Sauvignon Gris, and Sauvignon Blanc. Rich flavors of candied fruit and peach with a hint of spice.



Château Dauphiné Rondillon Loupiac 2009 ($23)
Made from Sémillon and Sauvignon vines planted in 1910. Rich and juicy with a beautiful tapestry of orange, almond, and exotic spice flavors.


Château la Rame Sainte Croix du Mont 2016 ($30)
Blend of Sémillon and Sauvignon with gorgeous flavors of candied fruits, vanilla, and acacia flower that are balanced by freshness and minerality.


Château de Marsan Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux 2015 ($40)
A fresh and mineral blend of Sémillon, Sauvignon, and Muscadelle with flavors of mandarin and white flowers.

 

Visit the Sweet Bordeaux website to learn more about the wines, region, and suggested pairings. 

Sipping Austria: Get to Know Grüner Veltliner with Domäne Wachau

Why don’t I drink more Grüner Veltliner? That’s the question I asked myself after attending a tasting with Domäne Wachau winemaker Heinz Frischengruber. Austria’s most significant white wine, Grüner Veltliner is racy and refreshing. Domäne Wachau’s portfolio of Grüner Veltliner, including single vineyard selections, showcases a beautiful range of wines from fresh and flirty to fuller-bodied and more nuanced.

Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Terrassen 2018 ($18) is a fantastic introduction to the varietal. The grapes were sourced from steeply terraced vineyards throughout the Wachau Valley. Crisp and refreshing with lively, but not aggressive acidity, it’s freshness and pronounced minerality make it a fantastic alternative to Sauvignon Blanc. The official tasting notes say "this wine offers distinctive aromas of green apple, white pepper, hints of mango, balanced with delicate herbal notes. This Federspiel is a traditional example of Grüner Veltliner with its medium-body crisp acidity, juicy fruits and white spice on the finish." 


Domäne Wachau is a cooperative of 250 grape farmers but winemaker and Wachau Valley native Heinz Frischengruber oversees production. In addition to his formal wine studies, Heinz also spent time in California, South Africa, and Germany and says that his time abroad helped him to become more open-minded and appreciate the importance of the philosophy of wine, not just technique.


If you really want to geek out on Grüner Veltliner, try a bottle of Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Ried Liebenberg 2018 ($25). The Liebenberg vineyard dates back to the 14th century and produces a more robust and powerful expression of Grüner Veltliner without sacrificing the signature freshness and minerality. The official tasting notes say, "the wine shows hints of ripe yellow apple, white peach, spicy notes of pepper and subtle hints of papaya; the palate is pronounced with a salty character, juicy fruit and lively acidity that complement the long lasting and powerful mouthfeel." 

If your travels take you to Austria, Domäne Wachau was ranked #19 on the 2019 list of Top 50 World's Best Vineyards. Tours and tastings are available. In addition to Grüner Veltliner, Domäne Wachau also produces a lovely range of Riesling.  

Terroir, Tradition, and a Touch of Magic: There's Something Special About Ricasoli Chianti Classico

Massimiliano Biagi (Agronomist and Technical Director) and Francesco Ricasoli (President and Owner of Ricasoli and 32nd Baron of Brolio)

It takes a person with extraordinary passion, patience, and determination to buy back their family’s business almost 20 years after it had been sold to a foreign entity. Baron Francesco Ricasoli is such a person. The Ricasoli family has been linked to wine since 1141 and they are documented as the oldest winery in Italy and the fourth oldest family business in the world. When Francesco regained ownership of their winery in 1993, he was also reclaiming Ricasoli’s esteemed position as a producer of superb Italian wines. After all, it was his great-grandfather, politician and wine visionary Bettino Ricasoli, that is credited for developing the signature Chianti blend, now called Chianti Classico. 

image courtesy of Ricasoli

Their Brolio Castle, located within the town limits of Gaiole in Chianti, sits majestically on their 3000-acre estate. 600 acres of the estate are planted to vineyards, making it the largest estate in Chianti Classico under vine. There are also 60 acres of olive groves.


In a recent tasting of Ricasoli wines, led by Francesco and the estate’s agronomist and technical director Massimiliano Biagi, I was impressed not only by the excellent quality of the wines but the diverse range of expression. Francesco described “Brolio as a magical place” and you can taste that special essence in the wines. One of the secrets to that magic is the estate’s many soil types and micro-climates.


It is also a bit magical that Francesco and Massimiliano are working together. As a little boy, Massimiliano played in front of Brolio Castle and never imagined that one day he would play such a pivotal role in creating Ricasoli’s celebrated wines.

image courtesy of Ricasoli

Ricasoli has devoted tremendous time and resources to studying the nuances of each unique zone and crafting wines that authentically express that specific terroir. They have identified 19 different soil types and all of Ricasoli’s vineyards are on hills, with altitudes ranging from about 600 to 1600 feet.

It’s no secret that I’m a big fan of Chianti Classico and Ricasoli is certainly in the top tier of quality producers. I recommend getting to know their wines with these 5 wines from 2015 and 2016, vintages that Francesco described as magical for their exceptional quality.

Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2016 ($22)
This crisp and juicy blend of Sangiovese (80%), Merlot (15%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%), is a charming introduction to the Ricasoli style. Aged for 9 months in tonneaux (large barrels), its fresh red fruit flavors, perky acidity, and smooth tannins make this an approachable but elegant expression of Chianti Classico. 



Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2016 ($30)
The Riserva has the same blend, proportions, and vintage as the Chianti Classico but was aged twice as long and spent 18 months in tonneaux. It is a bit more robust and complex hints of spice add verve to crisp and rich flavors of wild red fruit and black cherry.

Gran Selezione
Gran Selezione represents the very top tier of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid and Ricasoli produces different selections from different vineyard plots. Tasting them side by side is an excellent way to understand the impact of soil type on a wine’s flavor profile.


Ricasoli Colledilá Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($70)
A single vineyard wine, the Sangiovese grapes for Colledilá grow in soil that is very stony and rich in calcium -- one of the most representative types found in Chianti Classico. Aged for 18 months in tonneaux, Colledilà is described as “full with aromas of violet and iris coupled with ripe red fruits followed by hints of pepper and a whisper of white chocolate which give way to a full, velvety mouthfeel with soft tannins.” It also has an intense minerality and savory thread that is quite seductive.  

Ricasoli Roncione Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($85)
The soils of the Roncione vineyard contain mineral deposits from the Pliocene era. The official tasting notes describe Roncione as “intense ruby red color with garnet hues. Complex on the nose, with aromas of iris, violet and soft oaky notes. Sapid to taste, excellent acidity, which gives this Cru character and elegance. Robust finish, and aftertaste that reflects the aromas. A great expression of the Brolio marine deposit terroir.” 100% Sangiovese, Roncione’s red fruit flavors are intense and concentrated but a hint of salinity adds an energetic freshness that is quite intriguing.

Ricasoli CeniPrimo Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($85)
The Sangiovese grapes for CeniPrimo grow on the great valley of the River Arbia. The soil, which originates from an ancient river terrace dating back to the Pliocence-Pleistocene eras, is quite distinct and complex with some silty deposits, clay, and limestone. CeniPrimo is 100% Sangiovese and described as an “Intense ruby red color with slight garnet hues. Red fruits and delicate balsamic notes. Begins soft in the mouth, velvety and voluminous. The tannin is embracing, elegant and perfectly balanced with the acidity. A long, persistent finish, with character: an unique expression of Brolio’s ancient fluvial terrace.” Robust but not overwhelming, CeniPrimo has impeccable balance and energy.

Osteria di Brolio
image courtesy of Ricasoli

 If you’re planning a visit to Tuscany, Brolio Castle is one of the most celebrated destinations in wine country. Welcoming almost 50,000 visitors per year, guests can enjoy wine tastings, guided tours of the cellar and vineyards, and meals at Osteria di Brolio.


image courtesy of Ricasoli

You can also book an overnight stay at their charmingly restored 18th century farmhouse, Agriturismo Agresto. Located on a hill southwest of Brolio Castle, it is surrounded by vineyards. 

Bet on the Black Rooster: Drink More Chianti Classico!

Have you ever noticed the snazzy Black Rooster motif on a bottle of Chianti Classico? More than just a trademark, the bold logo has a rich history that dates back to medieval times. Legend has it that the crafty use of a hungry black rooster as an alarm clock gave Florence an advantage over Siena in an ongoing turf war for the Chianti region. Poultry prevailed and almost all of Chianti became part of the Republic of Florence.  


No actual roosters were sighted on my recent visit to Florence but the Gallo Nero logo was proudly displayed when I attended Chianti Classico Collection 2019, the annual grand tasting. From iconic wineries to newer players, almost 200 Chianti Classico producers, with more than 700 labels, showcased the fermented fruits of their labor at the stunning Stazione Leopolda, a former train station. Wine trade from around the globe descended upon Florence to swirl, sip, schmooze, and voice their opinion.

My verdict: Chianti Classico is better than ever. The level of quality, consistency, and sheer drinkability is at an all-time high. From annata (vintage) to Riserva to Gran Selezione, I was blown away by the stellar quality represented by every tier of the Chianti Classico pyramid. Chatting with the producers, it became abundantly clear that they have invested tremendous energy and resources in elevating the quality of their wines. Each winemaker I met was passionate about crafting wines that authentically represent their land and offer a pure expression of Sangiovese; the grape that is the foundation of Chianti Classico.


map courtesy of Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico 

It is important to note that Chianti Classico is not a monolith and its 177,500 acres are composed of several sub-appellations. According to the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, these include the entire territories of the municipalities of Castellina in Chianti, Gaiole in Chianti, Greve in Chianti and Radda in Chianti and parts of Barberino Tavarnelle, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Poggibonsi, and San Casciano Val di Pesa. These aren’t just geographical distinctions; the micro-climates and soil types of each region have an impact on the wine’s attributes. It is also extremely important to always remember that although Chianti Classico and Chianti are both Sangiovese based wines, they are two distinct DOCG's with different production regulations and zones.

To take Chianti Classico for granted is a huge mistake. Maybe it’s not the hot and trendy new wine region but Chianti Classico is not stagnant. It does not embrace tradition at the expense of innovation; Chianti Classico excels at both. For example, the 2013 introduction of Gran Selezione to the very top of the quality pyramid is reserved exclusively for Chianti Classico produced from the finest grapes from a single vineyard and these wines must be aged a minimum of 30 months, including 3 months in bottle. The quality of these wines is exceptional. 

Yes, these technical details of winemaking are important but during my time at the Chianti Classico Collection 2019 I was also impressed and enchanted by the people that I met. The level of camaraderie between the winemakers and their mutual respect for one another reminded me that competitors don’t have to be enemies. More than once, I heard a winemaker sing the praises of another and they would encourage me to taste the wines of their peers too, sometimes even walking me to their table. That’s genuine camaraderie and further proof that wine really is a bridge that brings people together.

Maybe you haven’t had Chianti Classico in a while -- now is the time to get reacquainted. Many of the wines are affordably priced and stellar quality can be found at all levels. So the next time you’re looking for a great bottle of wine to share with friends, I encourage you to choose a bottle of Chianti Classico. It’s impossible for me to highlight every producer but here are four of the fabulous people that I chatted with in Florence. Two of the wineries were familiar to me, and two were new discoveries, but they all make fantastic Chianti Classico.

Forgive me for sounding like a broken record; nearly every time that I’ve written about 4th generation wine producer Andrea Cecchi I’ve described him as the quintessential Tuscan gentleman. He is. I’ve had the pleasure of tasting wine with Andrea on his visits to NYC but seeing him in Florence was pure joy! The Cecchi family’s elegant wines represent the beautiful diversity of Chianti Classico. After all, they do have more than 125 years of winemaking experience; Sangiovese runs in their veins! I’m a big fan of their Cecchi Valore di Famiglia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($59.99) from their estate in Castellina in Chianti.100% Sangiovese, it is velvety and vibrant with exemplary purity and balance.


It wouldn’t be exaggerating to say that from the moment I arrived in Florence, I wandered around searching for Luigi Cappellini. I first met Luigi in 2016 when he and his lovely wife Silvia hosted a tasting of their wines in New York City. I was instantly enchanted by their warm personalities and beautiful wines. In 1958, the Cappellini family acquired this historic estate in Greve in Chianti that once belonged to the family of famed explorer Giovanni da Verrazzano. Castello di Verrazzano is a founding member of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico and the estate is certified organic. Try their Chianti Classico DOCG 2016 ($26). A beautiful expression of a classic Chianti Classico, it has power and finesse. 

Guido Carissimo, the founder of Carus kept me laughing when I stopped by his table in Florence. But make no mistake, Guido is very serious about his wines. Guido founded Carus in the mid 1990’s and is committed to producing terroir-driven wines with care and creativity. Located in San Casciano in Val di Pesa, their olive groves and grape vineyards are organically farmed. Their Baldéro Chianti Classico DOCG 2013 ($20) is mostly Sangiovese with a small amount of Merlot. Aged almost entirely in stainless steel, this snappy red is impressively crisp and fresh.

One of the many things that I love about winemaking is that it is often a multi-generational family affair. Gregorio Boscu Bianchi Bandinelli and his father Andrea were working side by side at the Chianti Classico Collection 2019 to share their family’s Villa di Geggiano wines. Villa di Geggiano has been the family home and winery of the Bianchi Bandinelli family since 1527. Their vineyards are located in the southern part of the Chianti Classico region in the municipality of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Some Italian friends told me that I absolutely must try the Villa di Geggiano wines and I’m so glad I did. A blend of 97% Sangiovese and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon their Villa di Geggiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2012 ($45) is elegant, balanced, and full of life.

Explore the Beauty of Portuguese Wine with Esporão

image courtesy of Esporão 

Portugal is all the rage but it isn’t cool just because some hipsters have suddenly “discovered” Lisbon’s colorful streets and Alentejo’s wide open spaces. Portugal’s cool quotient spans centuries and their rich wine culture is a big part of its irresistible Iberian appeal. If you find Portuguese wines a bit puzzling, Esporão is a delicious starting point. Founded in 1973 on an estate with a 750-year history, Esporão’s portfolio includes wines crafted from indigenous and international grapes grown at their estates in the Douro Valley and the Alentejo region. A leader in sustainability, Esporão is committed to organic practices and is on track to be 100% organically certified by 2021.

Master Sommelier and Esporão enthusiast Alex LaPratt

I’ve been a fan of Esporão’s wines for several years and even visited their impressive Alentejo estate in 2018. Earlier this summer in Manhattan, my palate revisited those Portuguese memories at a tasting led by Alex LaPratt, Master Sommelier. Inspired by Portugal’s June 10th national holiday, Portugal Day, our celebration was cheekily deemed Esporão Day. But you don’t need to wait for an official holiday to explore these wonderful wines. Esporäo has an incredibly rich portfolio so I recommend trying one of these four fantastic bottles.

Assobio Branco 2018, Douro, $13
You can't go wrong with this flirty and fresh white blend of Viosinho, Verdelho, Rabigato, Gouveio, and Códega do Larinho grapes from the highest and steepest hillside at Quinta dos Murças. The name Assobio refers to the whistling sound made by the wind as it travels through the hilltop vineyards. Perky acidity and minerality add texture to its flavors of fresh lime, passionfruit, and honeydew.

Esporão Reserva Branco 2017, Alentejo, $18
The very first wine produced by Esporão, this rich white wine is a blend of Antão Vaz, Arinto, and Roupeiro. Aged in stainless steel and new French and American oak, its vibrant lemon and grapefruit flavors are revved up by hints of cream and spice. Big and bold but not bulky.  

Quinta dos Murças Minas Tinto 2017, Douro, $25
Minas means spring in Portuguese and this red wine’s name was inspired by the five cool water springs that cool the vineyards. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Francisca, Tinta Roriz, and Tinta Cão grapes that were aged in concrete vats and used French oak casks for 9 months, it is full, ripe, and fresh with a harmonious interplay between flavors of red fruit, slate, and earth.

Esporão Colheita Tinto 2017, Alentejo, $16
Estate grown Aragonez, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Touriga Franca grapes were aged for 6 months in tulip-shaped concrete tanks to craft this silky and juicy red with charming black plum and currant flavors with a kiss of white pepper.  

Elegant, Exciting, Enduring: Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino

Tasting wine with Count Francesco Marone Cinzano is a sure-fire way to banish boredom. Bold and elegant with a quick wit, Cinzano and his wines never fail to captivate. I’ve sipped wine with Cinzano several times over the years at events in New York City and I finally had the pleasure of visiting his acclaimed winery, Col d’Orcia, when I was in Italy several months ago for the Brunello di Montalcino anteprima to preview the 2014 vintage.

Col d'Orcia vineyards
image courtesy of Col d'Orcia

A picturesque Tuscan hilltop town located south of Siena, Montalcino is the birthplace of one of Italy’s most revered wines, Brunello di Montalcino. Should I ever leave my cozy Manhattan apartment for more spacious digs, rest assured that my wine cellar would be well stocked with Brunello di Montalcino. Crafted from Sangiovese, which is known locally as Brunello, Brunello di Montalcino is an incredibly expressive and delicious red wine that ages beautifully.

At a dinner hosted by Cinzano at his country home on the Col d’Orcia estate, I experienced first-hand Brunello di Montalcino’s impressive longevity when he surprised us with bottles of rare vintages from 1969 and 1979.

Artful winemaking and the natural acidity of the Sangiovese grapes imbue Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino with a natural freshness that endures for decades. Located on a hill overlooking the Orcia river that inspired its name, Col d’Orcia is the largest certified organic estate in Tuscany and they have designated themselves “an organic island in Montalcino”.  

But you don’t have to wait decades or travel to Montalcino to enjoy these gorgeous wines. Take your palate on a elegant Tuscan journey with Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2014 ($59). 

Aged three years in oak and another year in the bottle, it is a classic expression of Brunello – complex and full but beautifully balanced. By Brunello standards, 2014 is still considered a young wine so if your budget permits, buy one to enjoy now and tuck a few away to revisit over the years to experience the evolution of the wine. 

I also recommend Col d’Orcia Rosso di Montalcino 2016 ($29). Aged for 12 months in Slavonian oak casks, it is a younger and fresher expression of Sangiovese with charming fruit flavors and a kiss of spice.

 

Soul, Style, Somontano: Viñas del Vero's Wines Are an Intriguing Taste of Spain

 Living la vida Somontano! A spread of fresh and authentic Spanish cuisine paired with Secastilla Garnacha in their stunning vineyard in Somontano. 

Traveling in the name of wine brings so much joy to my life but sometimes writing about the places and people that have secured a place in my wine-loving heart is a daunting task. Finding the right words to adequately describe a transcendent moment can feel like an exercise in futility. Call me melodramatic, but this is how I feel as I stare at my computer screen and struggle to write about my recent visit to Viñas del Vero winery in the Somontano region of Spain. Write, delete. Write, delete. Remembering the advice of an old boss that told me more than once, "Wanda, sometimes done is better than perfect," I plunge ahead. Imperfectly yet passionately, here I go! 

Let's start with some key facts. Somontano is located in the northeast of Spain at the foot of the Pyrenees, in the province of Huesca in Aragón. Somontano means "beneath the mountain" and the Pyrenees mountains provide a natural border with France. Viñas del Vero, one of Somontano's most important and celebrated producers, is part of the prestigious González Byass family of wineries. 

Elegant, rich, and refreshing La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha Blanca 2017 (around $17) is a charming expression of the complex flavors of the grapes grown in Viñas del Vero's high-altitude Secastilla vineyard. 

These 2008, 2013, and 2018 vintages of Viñas del Vero Chardonnay showcased the aging capacity of these well-made wines from Somontano. 

Somontano stands out not only for producing some of Spain's highest quality wines but also for its incredible viticultural diversity. Somontano's unique terroir makes it ideal for growing a wide variety of grapes, including Garnacha, Gerwürztraminer, Chardonnay, Merlot, and more. Few places in Spain can match Somontano's powerful two-punch of quality & diversity. Whenever I recommend wines from Somontano, Viñas del Vero's diverse portfolio of wines tops my list. 

Secastilla

One of Viñas del Vero's most precious treasures is their old-vine, high-altitude vineyard in Secastilla valley, in the far north-eastern limits of Somontano. I first visited Secastilla in 2017 and have been blessed with the opportunity to return two more times -- most recently in the spring of 2019. Secastilla is a place that both soothes and exhilarates my soul. For me, Secastilla expresses the essence and power of wine as a source of pleasure and peace. Vines were first planted here by the Romans in the 1st century BC and the name Secastilla references the seven castles that once dominated the landscape. 

"Apart from being a way of life, the best thing about wine is the passion or the hook it puts in you. It is not only work, but enjoyment." 
José Ferrer, winemaker and manager, Viñas del Vero

I've become such a familiar face at Viñas del Vero's winery and vineyard, winemaker and general manager José Ferrer joked that perhaps I should lead the tour instead of him. A winemaking genius, José is humble and charming. I never tire of hearing about his elaborate barrel aging process for their high end Blecua wines or climbing the steep slopes of Secastilla and touching the 100-year-old vines that are the foundation of their award-winning Garnacha. José's connection to this land is authentic and intense. He never imagined that one day he would lead winemaking in the same vineyards he wandered as a child. José is absolutely sincere when he says that he wants all of Viñas del Vero's wines to be an expression of their land. He could never imagine doing it any other way; Somontano is in his soul.

Old Garnacha vine at Secastilla

More than once I've joked with friends that should I ever run away, chances are that you'll find me in Spain, and Somontano is one of the first places they should look! Just a few hours by car from Barcelona, I highly recommend a visit to Somontano and time at Viñas del Vero is a must. They have a wonderful tasting room and their visitor experiences include tastings and vineyard tours, including by Segway. During the harvest season, guests can experience the incredible process of picking and pressing grapes. 

Of course, you don't have to cross the ocean to get a taste of Viñas del Vero's wines. You can take your palate on a tasting adventure to Somontano from the comfort of your living room. 


La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha 2016 is an excellent introduction to the house style. Crafted from high-altitude old vines; its purity of expression and elegant concentration of flavor is impressive. Wonderful now, this wine has the structure needed to age beautifully. This wine has quite a legacy -- the 2012 vintage was honored as the Best Red Wine in Spain at the International Wine Challenge.  

I must confess to an obsession with Blecua. I don't only consider it one of Spain's most impressive wines, it's a tremendous wine by any measure. José considers Blecua 2010 the finest wine he has ever made. and said, "Keeping in mind that it is a wine with two years of aging and that is made with the best of the best of the best of the best. It is not only a wine of the vineyard, but also of the winery. It requires a lot of reflection on what to save and what to give up. It is a winemaker´s wine." First produced in 1997 and only in the best vintages, for me Blecua is the wine that best expresses Somontano's ability to produce world-class and awe-inspiring wines.

Smiles and wines are in abundance whenever I see José Ferrer on my visits to Somontano! His talent, passion, and connection to the region imbue the wines of Viñas del Vero with authentic character. 

I stand by the words I wrote in 2017 when I tasted Blecua for the first time. "Like an artist working with a palette, José approaches Blecua creatively and the red blend changes with each vintage. Blecua involves a triple selection process of choosing the best vineyard sites, best grape bunches, and the best barrels. Barrel selection is an integral part of the Blecua process and José experiments with aging the grapes in French and American oak with varying levels of char before making the final selection. The end result is a sophisticated wine with tremendous approachability and aging ability." What's changed since then is that Blecua is now available in the United States - thank goodness! 

The beauty of the Viñas del Vero portfolio is that it truly has a wine for every mood, meal, and budget. Whether you are enjoying a simple picnic or haute cuisine, their wines enhance the experience. Only time will tell if my travels will bring me back to Somontano again but I know the region's wines, especially those from Viñas del Vero, will always be a part of my life. Authentic and delicious, each sip keeps me connected to a place in Spain that has become very special to me. 

To learn more about Somontano and Viñas del Vero, read my articles Seduced By Somontano: My Unforgettable Wine Adventure in Spain and All Roads Lead to Garnacha: A Wine Lover's Journey Through Spain and France. 

Give Me Some Altitude: Altura Máxima Takes Malbec to Extreme Heights

 

Martín Coscia has the answers to questions about high altitude winemaking! 

Have you ever wondered why wine geeks, including yours truly, get so excited when we talk about high altitude vineyards? It isn't just because of their stunning beauty. Grapes grown at high altitudes develop differently and you can taste it in the wine. Don't believe me? Ask Martín Coscia, high elevation vineyards expert and Brand Manager for Hess Family Latin America. Their Bodega Colomé "Altura Máxima" Malbec is produced from grapes grown in the world's highest elevation vineyard at an astounding 10,207 feet above sea level in the Salta region of Argentina.

“The true expression of terroir in this Malbec comes from the extreme altitude as well as soil composition – alluvial, sandy soils with a high percentage of gravel,” said Martín. “With a semiarid-desert climate, grapes receive much more sun, much less UV protection and produce thicker skinned grapes that deliver a robust mouthfeel supported by fresh acidity with surprising finesse.”

Fittingly, Altura Máxima means maximum height in Spanish. The vineyard and wine received this name from entrepreneur Donald Hess who succeeded in his audacious mission to plant the world's highest elevation vineyard. Taste the difference for yourself in the currently available 2015 vintage of Altura Máxima. Sustainably farmed and aged for 24 months, production was limited to 27 barrels. Priced at $135, it is a worthwhile and exciting splurge for Malbec lovers who want to experience a unique and beautifully crafted expression of Argentina's signature vino. Go ahead and take your sipping to new heights!

Follow the Bubbles in Barcelona and Spark Some Joy at Vilarnau Cava

Not far from Barcelona's bustling boulevards and ancient alleyways, a wine lover's adventure awaits you in Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, the heart and soul of Cava production. More than a wine made in the same labor intensive method as Champagne, Cava proudly stands on its own as a sparkling wine. Cava has a Catalan soul and expresses its unique terroir and traditions. I recently had the pleasure of experiencing this first-hand on a recent visit to Vilarnau. 

 Founded in 1949, in 1982 Vilarnau became part of the prestigious Gonzàlez Byass family of wineries. Located just an hour from Barcelona, Vilarnau is one of about 100 Cava houses in Sant Sadurní d'Anoia but they are perhaps the most expressive of their connection to Catalunya's capital city -- their bottles proudly say Vilarnau Barcelona. Their portfolio even includes bottles with graphics inspired by the iconic Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí. Who truly knows when Gaudí's Sagrada Família will be finished but trust me, you'll have no problems polishing off a bottle of delicious Vilarnau Cava!

image courtesy of Vilarnau

A visit to Vilarnau is a fantastic day-trip from Barcelona and the winery offers a wide variety of activities. While traditional tours and tastings are available, Vilarnau steps it up many notches with tours by Segway, motorized bike, or even helicopter. However you choose to tour Vilarnau's vineyards, seeing the vines provides tremendous context to the wines you will taste. And if you really want to have a hands-on experience in the vineyards, Vilarnau will happily put you to work grape treading and pruning, during season. 

My guide for the day was the bubbly and knowledgable Eva Plazas Torné, technical director and a member of the winemaking team at Vilarnau. A native of Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, Eva grew up surrounded by Cava and her life experience is complemented by her degree in agricultural engineering. From the vineyards to the cellar, Eva was a priceless source of information and her enthusiasm is contagious. Meeting Eva reminded me that everyone should have a career that brings them so much joy and also brings happiness to those around them. (I love my job but maybe in my next life I could make Cava?)

Cava Vilarnau Brut Reserva ($14.99) is a fantastic introduction to their style. A classic blend of Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarel-lo, it was aged more than 15 months in the bottle. Fresh and fruity with lively acidity and crispness. 

Yes, Cava is a sparkling wine that like Champagne undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle but they are not the same wine, and they shouldn't be. To understand Cava, it is important to know the three grapes that are the backbone of the blend: Parellada, Xarel-lo, and Macabeo. These indigenous grapes give Cava a unique flavor profile. However, other grapes, including Chardonnay are also allowed in the blend. 

Eva describes Parellada as "Delicate like a ballerina. Subtle and elegant, it adds acidity to the blend." "Xarel-lo is like a strong man," said Eva, because of its higher alcohol, power, and good structure. "Macabeo is the backbone, with a good balance between alcohol, acidity, and structure. It is like a woman playing the violin."


Eva also explained the three types of aromas present in Cava. The primary aromas are those of the grapes -- green apple, citrus, and floral and reinforce why it is important to nurture and pick high quality fruit. Cava's captivating secondary aromas come from the second fermentation and the long aging time on the lees (yeast) gives Cava warm and inviting bread and brioche aromas. It takes time for Cava to develop the tertiary aromas that come with aging, such as honey, nut, and toast. 

Shhhh, Cava at rest. Vilarnau Cava aging in the cellar. 

The minimum aging time for Cava is 9 months but Vilarnau ages many of their wines for much longer. As we tasted, Eva reminded us that the bubbles in younger Cava are bigger and move faster in the glass because they are not yet well integrated. From bone dry to sweet, fresh to complex, Vilarnau has a Cava for every mood, meal, and moment. Visit their website to see the full range. 

Vilarnau Brut Reserva Rosé Delicat ($14.99) is an elegant blend of mostly Garnacha with a kiss of Pinot Noir. As the name implies, it is a delicate wine but it is not wimpy. Aged for 15 months, the crisp and fresh fruit flavors are enhanced by a hint of creaminess. The bold and colorful bottle design is inspired by "Trencadís", a kind of mosaic that was used in the modernist artistic movement in Catalunya. Gaudi's Parc Güell in Barcelona is the most famous example of this technique. 

Of course, wine and food are meant to go together and Cava & Calçots are a winning combination. If you visit Barcelona when these spring onions are in season, you can reserve your space at Vilarnau for an authentic Calçotada. A Catalan culinary tradition, families and friends gather to eat mountains of these char-grilled delicacies by hand. Smoky, sweet, and savory; the calçots are dipped in Romesco sauce. A perfect match with Vilarnau Brut Reserva Rosé Delicat. 

Vilarnau winemaker Eva Plazas Torné demonstrates proper calçot dipping technique. 

I was 16 years old and living with a Catalan family in Barcelona when I had my first sip of Cava. That was many decades ago but visiting Vilarnau and sipping their Cava triggered that memory in vivid detail. In an instant, I recalled the audible excitement of everyone gathered around the table when the cork popped, the bubbles bouncing rhythmically in the glass, and the refreshing kiss of that first sip. I'll never be 16 again but Vilarnau's well-aged wines and Barcelona's eternal charms are poignant reminders that the passage of time can be a beautiful thing. And now I have some new Cava-centric memories to savor and share. 


Gaudi's iconic La Pedrera (Casa Milá) on Passeig de Gràcia in Barcelona. I can't believe that I used to walk by this building on my way to school.

If you're planning a trip to Barcelona, a visit to Vilarnau is a sparkling addition to your itinerary. And until then, pick up a bottle of Vilarnau Cava to take your palate on a journey and spark some wanderlust. 

 

Green Spain in a Glass: Albariño from Rías Baixas

Greed is good when it comes to Albariño from Rías Baixas. Trust me, it would be foolish to deny yourself the pleasure of sipping this charming white wine from Galicia, also known as "Green Spain" because of its lush landscape. Galicia's proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, unique climate, and mineral-rich soils imbue Albariño grapes from Rías Baixas with impressive freshness, crispness, minerality, and salinity. And it's not surprising that the finest expressions of Albariño hail from Rías Baixas; the grape is indigenous to the region. 

image courtesy of Rías Baixas wines

Within the Rías Baixas DO (Denomination of Origin), there are five sub-regions with unique micro-climates that produce wines with subtle differences. Easy-breezy expressions of Albariño may be the most familiar but other styles are also available, including sparkling and aged. There's nothing boring about Rías Baixas Albariño; these are white wines with presence, personality, and panache. Aromatic, fruity, crisp, and dry; Albariño from Rías Baixas merits a place in your glass. I recommend exploring Albariño from Rías Baixas with these four fantastic wines. Cheers! 

Terras Gauda O Rosal 2017 ($24)
A seductively aromatic blend of Albariño (70%), Caiño Blanco (22%), and Loureiro (8%). Rich and intense with hints of ripe peach. 

Vionta Albariño 2017 ($15)
100% Albariño. Creamy with a tinge of salinity and lively flavors of lemon and green tea. 

100% Albariño, Paco & Lola 2012 ($50) shows that Albariño has the capacity to age beautifully. Rich and round with good acidity, it is a harmonious tapestry of ripe fruit flavors with a tinge of cream, toast, and salinity. 

Albariño gets the sparkling treatment in Sensum Laxas 2017 ($48). Made in the traditional champagne method, this elegant expression of 100% Albariño grapes has delicate bubbles and hints of honey and brioche. 

Talent and Travel Texture the Wines of Jesse Katz's Aperture Cellars

"Building texture is what elevates good wine to a great wine."
Jesse Katz, Founder & Winemaker, Aperture Cellars

A conversation with Jesse Katz could easily make you feel like an underachiever but he's so humble and charming that you feel inspired instead of diminished. Jesse has achieved major success very early in his career -- the first winemaker included on the Forbes "30 Under 30" list, recognized by Wine Enthusiast as a "40 Under 40 Tastemaker", and the recognition of his Aperture Cellars as a "Rising Star" by Wine Spectator are just a few of this 35 year-old's impressive accomplishments. 

A native of Colorado, Jesse's career as a winemaker was set into motion at a young age when he traveled the world with his father, acclaimed photographer Andy Katz. Excellence is clearly in the Katz DNA because more than 6 million albums with cover photography by Andy Katz have been sold, including those by legendary rock groups like the Doobie Brothers. Wine is also a passion and frequent photographic subject of the elder Katz and Jesse spent his formative years accompanying him on journeys to some of the world's most famous wineries.

Jesse told me that he discovered his exceptionally good palate as a young man in Burgundy and by the age of 18 he knew that winemaking was his destiny. Honing his natural talent with hands-on experience by working the harvest at 15 wineries on multiple continents, Jesse also earned an enology degree from Fresno State University. After an accolade filled five-year tenure at Lancaster Estate, Jesse started Aperture Cellars in Sonoma. A collaboration with his father, Aperture is an artistic double-whammy: the labels feature Andy Katz's photography and the bottles contain Jesse's artful wines.

Aperture Barrel-Fermented Sauvignon Blanc 2018 ($40)
Inspired by Jesse's time in Bordeaux, this barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc balances lush creaminess with vibrant acidity. Rich and round but impressively fresh, crisp, and graceful with no overly zesty or harsh grassy flavors. (I tasted the 2017 vintage but 2018 is now available.)

Aperture Right Bank Red Blend 2016 ($55)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (52%), Merlot (30%), Malbec (11%), and Cabernet Franc (7%), this silky yet substantial red wine beautifully expresses Jesse's talent at crafting wines where texture is not an afterthought but an important factor in flavor perception. Bold and juicy with well-integrated tannins, there is an elegant interplay between freshness and complexity. Fermented with native yeasts, unfiltered, and unfined, the smooth texture really allows the excellent quality of the grapes to shine through.


Aperture Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($70) 
Silky and spicy, a kiss of Merlot (7%) rounds out this Cabernet. The flavors are deep yet very fresh. Impressive balance and depth. 

Visit the Aperture Cellars website to learn more about these wines and others in the Aperture portfolio. And if you're looking for further proof that Jesse is the real deal, he is also the founder of Devil Proof Vineyards which produces highly acclaimed 100% Malbec. I don't know what's next for Jesse but his impressive track record bodes well for future endeavors and certainly has me intrigued! 

A Special Tuscan Sip: Vernaccia di San Gimignano Needs to Be in Your Wine Glass!

Has Tuscany been keeping a secret from us? One of Italy's most visited and beloved regions, Tuscany has been so generous in sharing their iconic red wines, like Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, with the world. But have they been keeping the charming white wine Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG for themselves? 

image courtesy of Vernaccia di San Gimignano wine consortium

I'm happy to report that on my recent visit to San Gimignano that I met many producers who were eager to share their wines and implored me to spread the word. Located between Siena and Florence, San Gimignano is a stunning medieval era walled city that is renowned for its soaring towers that were built by powerful families to communicate their wealth and influence. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, San Gimignano's architecture and rich history make it a must-visit. And sipping the delightful local wine, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, is an essential and enjoyable part of the experience. 

mage courtesy of Vernaccia di San Gimignano wine consortium

What is Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG? According to the Vernaccia di San Gimignano Wine Consortium, the wine's history can be traced back to the 13th century and was consumed by high society, including kings, popes, and wealthy merchants. The wine achieved DOCG status in 1993, the top level of quality in the Italian wine classification system.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano is described by the Consortium as a "pale straw yellow coloured wine with golden highlights that become more evident with age. The perfume is fine and delicate, with fruity and floral scents when the wine is young. As it matures and ages, it develops the characteristic mineral scent of flint. It is a dry, harmonious and savoury flavoured wine. While pleasant when young, it often surprises with its capacity for ageing, developing sensorial notes in the nose and mouth that are complex and mineral." Production regulations require that Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG must contain at least 85% of the grape and up to 15% of other non-aromatic white grapes are allowed. 

During my visit, I had the pleasure of sampling a large selection of Vernaccia di San Gimignano and was incredibly impressed by their quality and the diversity of styles. Crisp and fruity with great minerality and a tinge of salinity, Vernaccia di San Gimignano is a really expressive and food-friendly wine with tremendous personality. But it also has the capacity to age beautifully and the older vintages displayed impressive texture and nuance. I was also impressed by the warm and generous personalities of the producers. Coincidentally, three of the most intriguing wines that I tasted were produced by wineries with women in leadership roles as winemakers and/or owners.  

Elegant and energetic Barbara Bernardi, of Borgo Tollena Wine Resort in San Gimignano, was one of the most memorable people that I met during my visit. She and her charming husband Lorenzo are the proprietors of an exquisite farm and winery with luxurious accommodations for guests. They also own a shop in the center of town that sells wines and other local delicacies. 

I fell in love with their Tollena "Signorina Vittoria" Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva 2015 ($28). Named after their daughter, Signorina Vittoria is a sophisticated expression of Vernaccia. 9 months on the lees imbues it with a touch of creaminess that melds beautifully with crisp citrus and slightly salty flavors. It is a rich but graceful vino that eloquently expresses the varietal's capacity for aging. Their wines have limited distribution in the USA but that will be changing soon! 

While tasting wines in San Gimignano, there was a name that I kept hearing over and over: Elisabetta Fagiuoli. The owner of Montenidoli since 1965, Elisabetta is respected for her strength of character and excellent wines. I did not have a chance to meet Elisabetta while I was in Italy, so I was thrilled when the stars aligned for us to meet when she was in New York City. Charismatic and vivacious, Elisabetta is not a person you forget. And her wines make an equally lasting impression.

Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Tradizionale 2017 ($21.99) is an excellent introduction to a classic style of Vernaccia. Lively and crisp with pure and vibrant fruit, this is no boring white wine. 

Winemaker Sandra Mora of Poderi Arcangelo makes superb organic Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG. I was so impressed by the precision and purity of her wine. Refreshing and balanced, it is available for around $15 a bottle.

Are you ready to give Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG a swirl? This Tuscan treasure really is the perfect wine for sunny spring and summer days.