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Devis Romanelli's family has been making wine in the hills of Montefalco for three generations. Like many Montefalco wine estates, Romanelli also produces olive oil.
Now is the perfect time to start planning your wine-centric adventures for 2023. If you’re looking for authentic wines, warm people, and a stunning natural landscape, Montefalco delivers all that and more. Montefalco is in Umbria, known as the “Green Heart of Italy” because of its verdant green landscape. And the tiny hilltop town of Montefalco, with a population of around 6,000 people, could very well be considered the wine heart of Umbria: It’s a small town that has significantly impacted the Italian wine scene.The view from Tabarrini Winery.
I’ve traveled to Italy countless times, yet Umbria had always evaded me until I visited Montefalco in the Spring of 2022 to attend a preview of the region’s wines hosted by the Montefalco Wine Consortium. Montefalco has a rich winemaking history that spans centuries, but it’s only in recent decades that the area started garnering serious attention and acclaim for its red wine, Sagrantino. Indigenous to Montefalco, the grape reaches its highest expression in its hills and calcareous clay soils. Montefalco Sagrantino was granted DOCG status in 1992.
Sagrantino is a powerful, tannic, and complex grape, and regulations require that Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG contain 100% of the grape. During my visit to Montefalco, many producers expressed their desire to create red wines that are more approachable but still authentic.
The Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG wines I enjoyed most still displayed power but weren’t clunky, aggressive, or too oaky. The essence of the grape came through in the glass -- flavors of black plum, black cherry, licorice, earth, and black pepper. By nature, the Sagrantino grape is extremely tannic; but Montefalco’s producers have found ways to manage the tannins. For example, picking riper grapes and aging the wines in used oak can mitigate tannins. But because of its impressive structure, Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG is a wine that ages like a dream. Even the more approachable expressions really start to sing in the glass 10, 15, and 20+ years later.While waiting for your Montefalco Sagrantino to age, give Montefalco Rosso DOC a swirl. Mostly Sangiovese with 10-25% Sagrantino, the result is an approachable red wine with structure, freshness, and softer tannins.
Montefalco’s red wines are quite special, but the white wines, especially Trebbiano Spoletino, are also a revelation. This white grape is native to Umbria and produces wines with texture, finesse, and aging potential. And Montefalco Bianco DOC wines blend a minimum of 50% Trebbiano Spoletino with other white varieties.
Fresh and bright Montefalco Grechetto DOC is a flirty and refreshing everyday sip.
Are you ready for an adventure in Montefalco? Even if your travels don’t take you to Umbria, I encourage you to try wines from the 12 producers listed below. Cheers!
Arnaldo Caprai
Ten years ago, I was invited to a tasting in NYC to celebrate Arnaldo Caprai being honored as European Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast. On that day, I met winemaker Marco Caprai and tasted Sagrantino for the first time. Arnaldo Caprai, Marco’s father, founded his eponymous winery in 1971 and Marco assumed leadership in 1988. Marco embarked on a mission to create Sagrantino wines of exceptional quality. To say Marco succeeded is an understatement; he is widely credited for proving to a global audience that Sagrantino from Montefalco deserved to be recognized as one of Italy’s top-tier wines. Marco’s success generated interest and acclaim for other winemakers in Montefalco.
Tabarrini
Meet the vivacious and poetic innovator of Montefalco -- winemaker Giampaolo Tabarrini. During my recent visit to his beautiful winery, Giampaolo said I could select any bottle from the cellar to pair with our lunch. I chose a wine that I absolutely adore, Tabarrini “Adarmando” Trebbiano Spoletino. Giampaolo advised me to pick a vintage that reflected a special time in my life, so I picked 2010 -- the year I first started writing about wine. Full of life and energy at 12-years-old, Adarmando 2010 showed no signs of slowing down; it was textured, generous, and multi-dimensional. Just like Giampaolo.
Scacciadiavoli
Founded in 1884, Scacciadiavoli is one of the oldest properties in Montefalco. It was a pleasure to tour the old, but very efficient cellars with fourth-generation vintner Liù Pambuffetti. The original cellars may not be shiny and new but they are full of soul. The name Scacciadiavoli means banish the devils and refers to an episode of exorcism in the 14th century when a young woman who was possessed by the devil was liberated by drinking some local red wine. In addition to the core wines of the region, Scacciadiavoli also produces world-class traditional method sparkling wines.
And a special thank you to Chef Giulio Gigli of Ristorante UNE for the delicious and creative small bites that accompanied the Scacciadiavoli wines.
Alessandro Lunelli and winemaker Luca Capaldini
Simultaneously futuristic and organic, Tenuta Castelbuono makes heads turn. Did aliens build this winery in Umbria or did it hatch from the earth? Proprietor Alessandro Lunelli solved the mystery: Acclaimed contemporary artist Arnaldo Pomodoro designed this unique structure, known as the “Carapace” (turtle shell), to blur the lines between architecture and sculpture.
Alessandro described the Carapace as a sculpture that people can enter. And upon entering, visitors can enjoy some solid wines. If the name Lunelli sounds familiar, it’s because their award-winning Ferrari wines are the pillars of Trentodoc, the traditional method sparkling wine from Trento, in the north of Italy. Intrigued by the quality of Sagrantino wines coming out of Montefalco, in 2001 the Lunelli family purchased Tenuta Castelbuono. A few years later, they committed to building a new winery to match their vision for crafting elegant and high-quality wines.
Meet the dynamic duo of Nicola and Lorenzo Mattoni from Cantina Terre de Trinci! These charming and hardworking brothers are pouring their heart, soul, and expertise into making wines that authentically express the terroir and culture of Umbria. Nicola (on the left) is the winemaker and Lorenzo (right) handles marketing and exports. We often talk about the aging potential of Sagrantino and Terre de Trinci proved it by pouring an exceptional 1998 Sagrantino – it was full of energy and layers of flavor.
Filippo Antonelli
image courtesy of Antonelli
Talk about a rich history -- this expansive estate, of 430 acres, is mentioned in several medieval documents and has been in the Antonelli family since 1881. Visitors can enjoy wine tastings, overnight stays in a restored antique farmhouse, and cooking classes.
Chiara (left) and Teresa Lungarotti (right) with their mother Maria Grazia.
image courtesy of Lungarotti
Considered one of Umbria's premier wineries, Lungarotti was founded by Giorgio Lungarotti in the 1960s. Today, his daughters Chiara (CEO) and Teresa (enologist) lead the company.
La VenerandaWith Roberto from La Veneranda.
This small family-owned winery is one of the hidden treasures of the region and has deep roots in Montefalco; they’ve been cultivating land in the region since 1568.
image courtesy of Romanelli
Three generations of the Romanelli family live and work together to produce wine and olive oil at their picture-perfect hilltop estate in the heart of Montefalco. They also have a wine shop in the historic town center.
Benedetti & Grigi winemaker Matteo Basili
One of the newer wineries in Montefalco, Benedetti & Grigi produced their first vintage in 2014.
Sandra and Danilo Antonelli make terroir-driven wines at their family's small farm in Montefalco.
Terre di San Felice
On my last day in Montefalco, I spent a sweet morning at Terre di San Felice. I’ll never forget sitting in the backyard of the farmhouse and sharing wine and laughter with Carlo Mancini and his cousin who reminded me a bit of Robert DeNiro! I felt like I was visiting long lost family. Such a special moment. Lovely wines made from the heart.
Where to Stay
image courtesy of La Rocca Guest House & Spa
Just a three-minute walk from Montefalco's main square, Piazza del Comune, this charming and comfortable guest house is owned by a Roman who left city life behind for Umbria's rustic appeal. Spacious rooms, gorgeous views of the countryside, and delicious breakfast.
On my balcony at La Rocca Guest House
Where to Dine
Ristorante Locanda del Teatro Montefalco
Located just down the street from La Rocca Guest House, this elegant restaurant has it all: beautiful ambiance, attentive service, great wine list, and innovative interpretations of local cuisine. We liked it so much, we ate there twice!
image courtesy of Enoteca di Benozzo
Located on the Piazza del Comune, this is a great spot for soaking in the local scene and enjoying local cheeses, salumi, and wines.
in Italy, Montefalco, Travel, Umbria, Wine, wine grapes, Winemaker | Permalink | Comments (0)
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Michel Rolland - the original flying winemaker and founder of Clos de Los Siete.
image courtesy of Clos de Los Siete
Few people can take credit for creating an entirely new career category, but Michel Rolland is the original flying winemaker. Crisscrossing continents and oceans, this Bordeaux-born enologist has worked with more than 150 wineries around the globe. This year marks Rolland's 50th harvest.
Rolland was instantly captivated when he traveled to Argentina for the first time in 1988. Recognizing it as "a beautiful place to make wine," he searched for the perfect spot to launch his own wine project. It took impressive patience, but Rolland didn't give up. Finally, in 1999, Rolland located a premier location at the foot of the Andes Mountains in the Uco Valley, sixty miles south of Mendoza. He partnered with six other French families and formed Clos de Los Siete -- The Vineyard of Seven. 2002 was the first vintage of this Malbec-driven blend.
I recently tasted the 2019 vintage of Clos de Los Siete with Rolland when he was in New York for a whirlwind visit. But Monsieur Rolland upped the ante. Not only was it a blind tasting of six vintages, but the wines also were not served in chronological order. Attendees were provided with descriptions of each vintage, and we had to guess which vintage was in each glass. Really, no pressure at all! And did I mention that I was seated next to Rolland? A little voice inside my head kept saying, "Wanda, don't mess this up!"
Why present the wines in this way? "Consistency is our goal," said Rolland. He added, "it makes me happy that it's very difficult to know which is the oldest or youngest."
Rolland wasn't kidding; it was very challenging to identify which of the six wines matched the specific vintages: 2019, 2018, 2017, 2015, 2010, and 2009. How is that possible? There are usually some telltale traits that red wines develop as they age. For example, the color often fades, and the fruit flavors give way to more savory and tertiary flavors. But even in the oldest vintage presented in the tasting, 2009, the changes in the wine were very subtle: the color was deep and bright, and the fruit was fresh and rich.
image courtesy of Clos de Los Siete
How does Clos de Los Siete do this? Terroir is an integral piece of the puzzle. The climate, altitude, sunlight, water, and soil of the Andes have a tremendous impact on the grapes. For example, the temperature swings of the high-altitude location allow the grapes to ripen slowly with great concentration. The vines are irrigated with pure melted snow from the Andes. And the soil composition of sand, gravel, and clay provides excellent drainage, which encourages the growth of quality grapes.
Malbec is the grape that put Mendoza on the map and is always the dominant grape in Clos de Los Siete. And although the exact varietal composition varies each year, the wine is usually a blend of Malbec, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot.
image courtesy of Clos de Los Siete
"I am a blender. I am from Bordeaux," said Rolland. He applies that blending know-how to Clos de Los Siete. Since it is not a single-varietal wine, the blend is fine-tuned each year to achieve that desired consistency from one vintage to the next.
Four of the seven original families who founded Clos de Los Siete remain involved in the project. Their wineries, Monteviejo, Cuvelier Los Andes, DiamAndes, and Bodega Rolland, each contribute grapes from their plots for the wine. Each year, each winery creates its own blend, and Rolland is the puzzle master that puts them all together. He tastes and selects the components that will form the final Clos de Los Siete blend. "My goal every year is to make a great wine," said Rolland.
The tasting notes provided for the blind tasting described 2019 Clos de Los Siete ($21) as "Another great vintage in the Uco Valley." It is rich and juicy with hints of spice and impressive freshness for such a robust wine. It certainly achieved Rolland's goal of making a wine that is "easy to approach," can be paired with food and enjoyed any time of the day.
And perhaps you're wondering how I did in the blind tasting. Well, in a room of wine professionals, no one identified more than one vintage of Clos de Los Siete correctly. I identified 2010, which the tasting notes described as a "warm and drier vintage."
One out of six isn't going to win me any awards, but it was an invigorating exercise. I loved using the clues and my senses to figure out the puzzle.
Monsieur Rolland made us all feel better when he chuckled and said that even he finds this tasting difficult -- and he makes the wine! A small price to pay for consistency!
Throughout his career, Rolland has partnered in producing many of the world's most acclaimed wines -- and those often bear a price tag that makes them unattainable for many people. I was delighted to see he applies that same precision and passion to the affordable and widely available Clos de Los Siete so that quality wine is within reach for everyone. Cheers!
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Winemakers Daniele Vuerich (Attems, left) and Alessandro Marini (Tenuta Luce, right).
My meeting with winemakers Alessandro Marina (Tenuta Luce) and Daniele Vuerich (Attems) was one of my most memorable appointments this year.
I was so inspired by their passion and commitment to the art and science of winemaking. These young winemakers have already achieved great success; I look forward to following their careers for many years to come.
Attems and Tenuta Luce are both owned by the venerable Frescobaldi winemaking family.
Attems is located in Friuli, in the northeast of Italy, a region celebrated for white wines with texture and character. Tenuta Luce is located in the renowned Tuscan appellation, Montalcino.
Attems Pinot Grigio Ramato 2021($20) is an antidote to the bland and watery Pinot Grigio that has saturated the US market. Ramato means copper, and the wine gets its coppery hue from extended skin contact during maceration. Daniele described the wine as a “rosé-style Pinot Grigio” with “complexity and lively acidity.”
Attems “Cicinis” Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($35) hails from the heart from the Collio region of Friuli. A single-vineyard wine, it is zesty and bright with a touch of herbs and a slightly creamy texture.
Tenuta Luce “Luce” Toscana 2019 ($130) is one of Italy’s iconic “Super Tuscan” wines and the first in Montalcino to blend Sangiovese and Merlot. Alessandro said the “very flamboyant” Merlot is balanced by the acidity of the Sangiovese. Silky and almost creamy with rich red fruit flavors and a kiss of spice.
Tenuta Luce Brunello di Montalcino 2017 ($135) is an elegant and classic expression of the regal Brunello. Bold and balanced with well-integrated tannins and a long finish, the Sangiovese grape sings in the glass.
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Eduardo Chadwick, and his daughter Magui, presented the 2019 Seña and past vintages that showcased the impressive elegance and aging capacity of this iconic Chilean wine.
At the risk of sounding like a broken record, please indulge me as I repeat one of my favorite refrains: So many wines, so little time. I often feel exhilaration and exasperation as I navigate my way through the sheer volume of wines available today. But some wines stand out from the captivating chaos of fermented grapes, and Seña is such a wine.
Eduardo Chadwick and Robert Mondavi at Seña's vineyard.
image courtesy of Seña
The landscape was wildly different when the first vintage of Seña was released in 1997. Naysayers doubted Chile's capacity to produce top-tier wines that could compete on a global stage. But two visionary vintners, Eduardo Chadwick from Chile and Robert Mondavi from the United States, joined forces in 1995 to create Seña. Its release caused quite a sensation, and Seña has won countless accolades and secured its status as one of Chile's premier wines.
Seña 2019 ($125) marks the 25th anniversary since it debuted in 1997 with the 1995 vintage. A rich and elegant blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Malbec, 15% Carmenere, and 4% Petit Verdot, Seña's complex layers of fruit, spice, herbs, and earth are balanced by a vibrant freshness. The cooling breezes of the nearby sea influence Seña's vineyards in the Aconcagua Valley, and that kiss of the sea is perceptible. A very impressive sip!
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Tired of sipping the same old white wines? Break out of your rut with Lugana wines! Located in the north of Italy, on the beautiful southern shores of Lake Garda, Lugana produces some of Italy’s most delicious and charming white wines. The wines are made from the ancient indigenous grape Turbiana, which thrives in the unique microclimate of Lugana. Lake Garda’s breezes regulate the temperature and keep the grapes healthy. Plenty of sunshine and rich white clay soils also contribute to Lugana's fresh, approachable, mineral, and food-friendly personality.
To learn more about Lugana, watch the recording of my Instagram Live featuring four Lugana producers: Avanzi, Cà Maiol, Pasini San Giovanni, and Pilandro.
Visit DestinationLugana.com to learn more about Lugana wines and a series of special events in New York City -- 13 restaurants and 2 clubhouses will feature special menus and wines from 28 Lugana producers. Cheers!
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Hervé Birnie-Scott aka El Loco Francés (The Crazy Frenchman)
Founder & Estate Director, Terrazas de los Andes
My mellow mood, fueled by a rainy day in Manhattan, called for an elegant yet approachable wine that would wrap around me like a cashmere scarf. So I reached for three intriguing bottles of Malbec from Terrazas de los Andes that had patiently waited for me to taste them. Yes, Malbec.
Some folks don't consider Malbec cool because it's ubiquitous. But a wine's cool factor isn't its most important attribute. I want well-made, authentic, balanced wines with a compelling story, and Terrazas de los Andes delivers on all fronts. And honestly, anyone who doesn't think that Malbec is cool has not been paying attention to the exciting developments in Argentine winemaking. Not all Malbecs are created equal, and Terrazas de los Andes is an example of how compelling it can be when made with care and creativity.
Armed with only a WW1- era altimeter, in the early 1990's French viticulturist and winemaker Hervé Birnie-Scott set off on an adventure to explore the high-altitude terraces of the Andes. His equipment may have been ancient, but Hervé's skills and intuition were up to the task: he is a cold-climate winemaking expert with experience in Sancerre, Victoria, and California's North Coast. Hervé's unconventional approach and years-long quest to make wine from these high-altitude vineyards earned him the nickname of "el loco Francés" (the crazy Frenchman) from the locals. He may be a little loco, but Hervé's wines are a thing of beauty.
Fresh, vibrant, nuanced, and bursting with flavor, the Terrazas de los Andes expressions of Malbec are full-bodied and graceful. They are complex without being clunky and overwrought. Their portfolio also includes Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, which I look forward to tasting.
Terrazas de los Andes Tasting Notes
Malbec Reserva 2020 ($19.99) is a charming introduction to the fresh and flavorful Terrazas de los Andes style. Crisp with juicy flavors of red and black fruit, violets, and a kiss of sweet spice, it is composed of Malbec grapes from more than 100 parcels from 7 estate vineyards that range in altitude from 3510 ft. to 4101 ft. above sea level. An elevated everyday sip.
Grand Malbec 2018 ($59.99)
A blend of three vineyards with elevations ranging from 3510 ft. to 4100 ft. above sea level, this wine is described as "the fullest expression of Malbec from Terrazas de los Andes." It is more complex and fuller-bodied than the Reserva, but that signature freshness shines through. Ripe black fruit with hints of violet, sweet spices, savory threads of dried herbs, and a touch of graphite.
Parcel No. 1E “El Espinillo” Malbec 2018 ($99.99)
Described as "the jewel in the Terrazas crown," El Espinillo vineyard is the highest altitude vineyard in Mendoza's esteemed Gualtallary appellation. It is located at a jaw-dropping altitude of 5413 ft. above sea level -- a "high-risk but high-reward elevation that requires extreme viticulture." Intense and brooding but still impressively fresh with flavors of blueberry, blackberry, plum, violet, herbs, a touch of underbrush & meaty mushrooms.
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When I first met Sergio Zingarelli, President of Rocca delle Macìe winery, in November 2019, there was no crystal ball around to warn us that we were living in the good old days: life before the Covid-19 pandemic. Sitting around a table at a Manhattan restaurant, our group of wine professionals didn’t know that global turmoil was just around the corner. Still, we instinctively laughed and savored each sip of his family’s wines because it was clearly a moment to treasure. Thank goodness for those memories. They were a sustaining force during the endless days of social distancing when it seemed like sitting side-by-side in enclosed spaces was destined for the history books.It's hard to believe that almost 3 years had passed since my first tasting with Sergio Zingerelli.
Well, don’t count out the human spirit, especially when paired with the power of science. Now that most of the world is vaccinated and boosted, the situation has vastly improved. And because of this progress, in September 2022, almost three years since our first tasting, I had the pleasure of meeting with Sergio again for a vertical tasting of the 2010 -2018 vintages of his eponymous Sergio Zingarelli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG. Impeccably tailored and with the manners to match, Sergio is rightfully proud of what his family has accomplished in the world of wine.
Many wineries have an intriguing backstory, but the story of Rocca delle Macìe is genuinely cinematic. Sergio’s father, Italo Zingarelli, led a colorful life worthy of a biopic: He had a brief career as a boxer before transitioning to work in film as an extra and stuntman. That opened the door for the elder Zingarelli’s impressive career as a film producer, and director of popular “Spaghetti Western” films, including They Call Me Trinity and Trinity Is Still My Name. Italo’s success in the film industry enabled him to fulfill his dream of owning a wine estate in Tuscany. “And so, in 1973, in contrast to all those who at the time were fleeing the countryside to work in the city, he purchased a rundown 14th-century borgo in Castellina in Chianti and set about painstakingly restoring the buildings, thus giving rise to the Rocca delle Macìe winery,” said Sergio.
In 1984, Sergio joined his father at Rocca delle Macíe and worked his way up to his current leading man role of President. Italo passed away in 2000 but remains a source of inspiration for Sergio and his siblings: “My father managed to infuse me, my brother Fabio, and my sister Sandra with his great passion for Tuscany and for the art of winemaking, as well as with the desire and enthusiasm to continue writing the never-ending story that binds the art of wine-making to the life of man.”
Sitting across the table from Sergio and knowing the story of his family certainly adds more texture, nuance, and energy to the tasting experience. But the wines stand on their own. Elegant with a freshness that endures even in older vintages, they are a sippable and sophisticated snapshot of time and place.
Our tasting focused on the single-vineyard Sergio Zingarelli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG. Sergio told me that the vineyard is visible from his kitchen window. Representing the top tier of the Chianti Classico pyramid, Gran Selezione is a relatively new category introduced in 2014. It has secured its position as a stellar and age-worthy expression of Sangiovese.
Like a well-made movie, the story of Rocca delle Macìe has many layers -- passion, creativity, family, and true grit. And the wines capture this complexity in an energetic and elegant style. And who doesn’t love a happy ending where dreams come true?
Tasting NotesThe 2015 and 2016 vintages of Sergio Zingarelli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG are currently available in the US marketplace and sell for about $100 per bottle. The 2017 vintage is coming soon, and 2018 should reach American shores in 2023.
2015 and 2016 were both exceptional vintages in Chianti Classico. Both Sergio Zingarelli wines are 100% Sangiovese with impressive balance and freshness. I found 2015 a bit more opulent and luscious than 2016 – rich and round with pops of spice; it reverberates on the palate like an opera diva with precision and passion. 2016 is slightly more restrained and less va va voom. A bit shy in the beginning, its bright and rich flavors open beautifully in the glass. 2017 was a hotter vintage, and although the ripeness of the fruit is more pronounced, it is not jammy -- the freshness is still there. I did get a sneak peek of 2018; it is still a baby by Gran Selezione standards, but the structure and freshness are promising signs.And, if you’re looking for a refreshing white wine with character, I recommend their 2021 Campo Maccione Vermentino ($16) from Rocca delle Macìe’s estate in Tuscany’s coastal Maremma region. A subtly salty kiss of the sea meshes perfectly with its flavors of white peach, lemon, and a pop of pineapple.
in Chianti Classico, Italy, Sangiovese, Tuscany , Wine, wine grapes | Permalink | Comments (0)
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“Don Melchor is for me the constant search for the best expression of each of the vines within the vineyard, in order to achieve the beauty of the balance of the terroir of Puente Alto in each vintage. That is my true obsession. I use technology as a tool to achieve greater knowledge, but with this, observing and feeling each plant and wine is what allows us to achieve the perfect balance in each vintage." - Enrique Tirado, Winemaker & General Manager, Viña Don Melchor
Is there a wine in your life that makes your heart skip a beat when a new vintage is released? I was introduced to Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon five years ago and it was love at first sip. At that time, I had no idea that Don Melchor was considered a Chilean wine icon. I grabbed the bottle to share with friends, and we were all mesmerized. Based on my tasting of the newly released 2018 vintage, my affection for this game-changing Chilean wine shows no signs of wavering.
First created in 1987, the second vintage of Don Melchor (1988) was the first Chilean wine named to Wine Spectator's Top 100 Wines of the World. Since then, it has placed on this prestigious list nine times, including three placements in the Top 10.
In a world full of Cabernet Sauvignon, what makes Don Melchor so unique? To answer this question, I defer to Enrique Tirado, the winemaker and general manager of Viña Don Melchor: "Don Melchor is not a single Cabernet Sauvignon, but multiple expressions."
The grapes for Don Melchor are sourced from seven parcels in the Puente Alto Vineyard in the upper Maipo Valley, at the foot of the Andes Mountains. The next steps reflect Tirado's meticulous approach to crafting Don Melchor: the seven parcels are harvested independently and more than 150 micro-vinifications are made in the cellar, they are then tasted and selected for the final composition. No single component represents more than 60% or 70% of the blend. Crafting Don Melchor is truly is a labor of love for Tirado and his team. Their precision and passion are reflected in Don Melchor's elegance, authenticity, and consistency that still respects and expresses vintage variation.
Tirado has crafted Don Melchor since 1995 and he said, “Don Melchor 2018 manages to produce that unique sensation you only get from great wines and great vintages”. The ideal weather conditions yielded grapes of exceptional quality. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (91%), Cabernet Franc (5%), Merlot (3%), and Petit Verdot (1%), Don Melchor 2018 ($120) is bold, balanced, refined but exuberant. It is complex but not off-putting. Vibrant and robust, it does not cross the line towards jammy vulgarity. Flavors of pristine red and dark berries, fine tannins, hints of herbs, and a kiss of earth; they're all in the glass.
My only regret is that maybe I sipped 2018 too soon. 2018 is impressive now, but Don Melchor tends to age like a dream, becoming more captivating over time. I've tasted 2017 a few times, including side-by-side with 2018, and that additional year in the bottle has added even more nuance and lushness. I know the already marvelous 2018 will be even more dazzling over time.
PS – I interviewed Enrique Tirado a few months ago on Instagram Live, and he does a beautiful job describing the philosophy, process, and style of Don Melchor.
in Cabernet Sauvignon, Chile , Wine, wine grapes, Winemaker | Permalink | Comments (0)
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Katherine Power & Cameron Diaz, Founders of Avaline
image courtesy of Avaline
The response from the wine media was fast and furious when actor Cameron Diaz and entrepreneur Katherine Power introduced their Avaline wines to the world last year. Quicker than you could chill a bottle, Avaline’s "clean wine" claims were branded as misleading. It’s true that much of the language surrounding clean wines is cloudy; there is no legal definition of clean wine.
Avaline's website states that “Avaline makes clean, delicious wines with organic grapes. Transparently produced, full of natural goodness, free of unnecessary extras.” It is wonderful that Avaline’s wines are crafted from organic grapes, but that’s not quite revolutionary. Regarding additives, Avaline does filter their wines with bentonite clay, and cream of tartar is added to prevent the formation of crystals. There’s nothing controversial about these additives, but they’re certainly not necessary -- trust me, wine geeks love an unfiltered wine!
I like the charming and talented Cameron Diaz, she actually seems like someone that it would be fun to share a bottle with, but I confess that I always approach celebrity wines with some skepticism. But I finally accepted an invitation to give Avaline a swirl. From all accounts, Avaline is a hit with consumers, so I wanted to taste the wines sent to me with an open mind. No one likes a wine snob.
Avaline White Wine ($24)
The label says Made In Spain, but no region is listed. Vintage and information about the blend are also absent. A search on Avaline's website yielded more info: Avaline White is a combination of Xarel-lo, Macabeo, and Malvasia grapes sourced from Can Ràfols dels Caus, respected producers in Penédes, Catalunya. That’s a delightful surprise -- Xarel-lo and Macabeo are essential to producing the Spanish sparkling wine Cava, so it’s a treat to encounter these varieties in a still wine. The label describes the wine as “dry with a crisp fresh finish”. I must admit, this is a pleasant sip. Fresh with perky acidity, flavors of citrus, green apple, pear, fresh-cut grass, and a hint of salinity, this is a charming summer wine to enjoy as an apéritif or paired with salads and fresh seafood.
Avaline Red Wine ($24)
The label simply states Vin de France with no indication of region or the blend, so once again, I had to do some detective work on Avaline’s website. A blend of Grenache & Syrah from the Southern Rhône, “the winemaking family respectfully asked Avaline to keep their identity confidential." A light-bodied and juicy red with flavors of black cherry, and pops of black pepper and spice, I recommend serving this red slightly chilled. A tasty pairing with barbecue or pizza.
My final thoughts? Fresh, fruit-forward, and tasty, Avaline’s wines aren’t complex, but they are enjoyable everyday wines. I applaud their commitment to using organic grapes and for avoiding some of the more questionable additives often seen in mass-produced wines. The wines are also Vegan Friendly. The debate about clean wine is an important one, but I wish Avaline would devote some space on their labels to detailing the grape varieties. Personally, I want to know more about the grapes, regions, and producers: come clean with those great details and don't bury them on the website!
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When exploring wines, José Rallo, CEO and Co-Owner of Donnafugata
encourages everyone to "Discover Sicily. Trust Sicily. You'll be in Sicily with just a sip!"
For the season finale of Wine With Wanda on Instagram Live, I wished for a vibrant, charming, and clever guest, who also makes beautiful wine. 5th generation vintner José Rallo was the obvious choice. CEO & co-owner of the award-winning Sicilian winery Donnafugata, José is a savvy businesswoman with the soul of an artist.
When José is described as the face and voice of Donnafugata, they really mean it. A talented vocalist, José believes in the synergy of wine and music, and her communications strategy includes events such as the "Donnafugata Music & Wine Live" events. José has recorded two CD's and performed around the world at prestigious venues, including the Blue Note in New York City.
Donnafugata was founded in 1983 by José's parents, Gabriella and Giacomo Rallo, and her brother Antonio is the winemaker. Donnafugata is celebrated for their terroir-driven style that expresses an authentic taste of Sicily and the Sicilia DOC. I visited Donnafugata in 2017; it was a magical experience.
Watch the video above, on Instagram, or YouTube to learn more about Donnafugata and to hear José sing a lovely snippet of the jazz song An Older Man Is Like An Elegant Wine. We also discussed the inspiration behind Donnafugata's bold artistic labels and the name of the winery: Donnafugata means woman in flight or escaped woman.
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image courtesy of Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery
"I strongly believe in the Russian River Valley's capacity to consistently produce world class wines. The key is cool breezes and fog from the nearby Pacific Ocean blanket."
-Theresa Heredia, Winemaker, Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery
When does a wine cross the threshold from being good to very good, or even great? I don't seek perfection in wines because I'm not certain it exists. And let's be honest, barring technical flaws that render a wine undrinkable, perfect wines, just like self-righteous people, can be a bit boring. For me, a wine goes beyond the ordinary when it is intriguing. I'm not sure if the art of intrigue is taught at winemaking school, but intriguing wines don't just taste good; they captivate you. Each sip sparks an emotion, a question, a revelation. Winemaker Theresa Heredia, of Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, certainly knows a thing or two about crafting intriguing wines.
When Gary Farrell founded his eponymous winery in 1982, Sonoma's Russian River Valley was not officially an AVA. He was indeed a pioneer in crafting small-lot single-vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Theresa Heredia has been at the helm of winemaking at Gary Farrell Winery since 2012 and carries on this legacy.
Theresa's studies honed her scientific approach to winemaking: she earned a bachelor's degree in biochemistry from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo, and was a Ph.D. candidate in chemistry, with an emphasis in enology, at the University of California, Davis. However, she opted out of the Ph.D. program to pursue hands-on experience as a winemaker.
image courtesy of Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery
I recently tasted several Gary Farrell single-vineyard Pinot Noir wines in a Zoom webinar led by Theresa. Her scientific prowess and commitment to precision were apparent, but Theresa also understands that there's an ineffable dimension to winemaking that adds a bit of magic.
I believe that when crafting single-vineyard wines, a cookie-cutter approach must be avoided. For the single-vineyard designation to mean something beyond a mere geographical description, the wine must convey that terroir's unique qualities. It should capture the essence of the variety as it manifests itself in that vineyard. Gary Farrell's single-vineyard Pinot Noir meets that criteria.
Gary Farrell has an impressive selection of single-vineyard Pinot Noir, and I've highlighted three that I found particularly intriguing. One of the reasons why winemakers worldwide are enamored with Pinot Noir is its capacity to express terroir transparently. Tasting these Gary Farrell wines side-by-side is a priceless master class in better understanding how a well-crafted Pinot Noir stays true to the variety's character and conveys a unique sense of place and time. My tasting focused on 2016 vintages, but the Gary Farrell website features many 2017 vintages.
Tasting notes courtesy of Gary Farrell Winery
2016 Gary Farrell Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir ($70) is a fantastic introduction to the Gary Farrell style. “This Bien Nacido Pinot Noir is like an elixir of exotic red fruit, exuding aromas of Açaí, Goji, pomegranate, dried stems, cardamom, powdered ginger and star anise, all balanced by an earthy under layer of dried stems, toasted cedar and sandalwood. The array of palate flavors is simultaneously fruit-driven and savory, exploding with hints of wild strawberry, raspberry, Mangosteen and crushed herbs, all wrapped up in a blanket of velvety grape tannins. The juicy acidity creates a persistent, tangy sensation, while the spicy oak and wood tannins add a polishing finish to this beautiful wine.”
If you really want to geek out, taste 2016 Gary Farrell Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Noir ($55) and 2016 Gary Farrell Hallberg Vineyard-Dijon Clones Pinot Noir ($60) side-by-side to see how different clones respond to the same terroir. The Hallberg is described as “Lush aromas of dark cherry, currants, and cola naturally follow the deep ruby hue of this wine in glass. Dried mushrooms, black tea, and an array of fresh violets, rose petals, and a hint of peppermint provide complexity and intrigue. Exceptional palate weight coupled with a tremendous concentration of fruit flavors and zesty acidity deliver a balanced package of power and finesse.”
And my favorite of the three, the Hallberg Vineyard-Dijon Clones is described as “A captivating bouquet of savory herbs and spice introduce this complex offering from the Hallberg Vineyard. Generous notes of white pepper, black tea, cloves and tobacco leaf are in the forefront but slowly give way to the classic red fruit aromas of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Flavors of dried cranberries and fresh raspberries entice the palate while subtle tannins from lightly toasted French oak barrels lend finesse. Exceptionally soft and approachable, this is wine is impeccably balanced from start to finish.”
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Daniel Pi, Chief Winemaker, Trapiche
image courtesy of Trapiche
Whenever someone asks what sparked my interest in wine and led me on my current path as a chronicler and enthusiastic student of fermented grapes, I confess that I struggle to offer a short and simple answer. Like many of us, a collection of past experiences shaped my current reality. But if I have to pinpoint one moment that gave me a firm push towards wine, it was meeting winemaker Daniel Pi of Trapiche in 2009.
That fateful day marked the first time I sat with a winemaker and tasted wines they had created. I was captivated as I listened to Daniel speak passionately about Trapiche's vineyards in Mendoza (Argentina), the influence of the Andes on the Malbec grapes, and how barrels shape the flavor profile of the wines. At that moment, I realized how much I didn't know about wine, and I left that meeting with Daniel, inspired to learn more.
It's hard to believe that eleven years have passed since that meeting, but a few months ago, I finally had the chance to tell Daniel the impact he had made in my life. Trapiche's USA-based public relations agency reconnected us for a tasting over Zoom. Founded in 1883, Trapiche is a household name in Argentina, and Daniel has been their chief winemaker for almost 18 years. Yes, he's a big deal, but Daniel was as down-to-earth and engaging as I remembered.image courtesy of Trapiche
During our conversation, we tasted two of Trapiche's single-vineyard Malbec wines -- Finca Coletto 2017 and Finca Ambrosia 2017. Created to honor Trapiche's grape growers, these special bottles retail for about $50 each. The Coletto and Ambrosia vineyards are only five miles apart, but because of differences in soil types and micro-climates, the grapes produce two very different expressions of Malbec.
The Malbec vines for Coletto are about 50 years old. Juicy with soft tannins and a hint of spice, Daniel recommends Coletto as a great match with pasta.
The Malbec vines for Ambrosia were planted about 18 years ago. More mineral and chalky with a hint of herbs, this Malbec pairs perfectly with a juicy steak.
For people who mistakenly think that Malbec is a one-dimensional wine, these terroir-driven wines are important reminders of Malbec's capacity for many different expressions. Daniel says that when people ask him what's next for Argentina after Malbec, he says, "More Malbec!"
Trapiche will always be a sentimental favorite, but there's a reason why they are one of Argentina's most esteemed producers -- they make great wine! If you want to better understand the full range of Malbec, Trapiche's extensive portfolio features well-crafted wines in a range of styles and price points. And I look forward to the day that I can visit their winery in Mendoza and share a bottle of Trapiche Malbec with Daniel.
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Carmenere grapes
image courtesy Wines of Chile
Carmenere’s dramatic back story always reminds me of a telenovela heroine that lived in the shadows until her true noble identity was revealed. Long mistaken for Merlot, Carmenere arrived in Chile in the 1800’s with other Bordeaux varieties. In 1867, that dastardly louse known as Phylloxera wiped out most of Bordeaux’s vineyards, including Carmenere. Meanwhile, Carmenere was secretly thriving in Chile. After years of obscurity, Carmenere was finally correctly identified in 1994, and the course of Chilean winemaking was forever changed. Now known throughout the world as Chile's signature wine, the quality of Carmenere has improved greatly over the years and Chilean winemakers have committed themselves to discovering its full range of expression.
If you’re not familiar with Carmenere, TerraNoble Carmenere Gran Reserva 2017 ($19) is a charming introduction. 100% Carmenere from the Maule Valley, on the nose it has a subtle hint of the green bell pepper aromas often associated with Carmenere. On the palate it is juicy and full-bodied with silky sweet tannins and flavors of ripe black fruit, clove, spice, and bittersweet chocolate. A tasty wine at a very nice price.
If you really want to geek out on Carmenere and better understand its nuances and capacity to express terroir, try a side-by-side tasting of the 2017 vintages of TerraNoble CA1 Carmenere Andes and CA2 Carmenere Costa. Both wines are $24.99. As the name indicates, the Carmenere grapes for Costa 2017 were sourced from vineyards on the coastal mountain range of the Colchagua Valley, where constant breezes from the Pacific Ocean cool the grapes. The resulting wine is soft, fruit-forward, and fresh with a hint of salinity. Meanwhile, the grapes for Carmenere Andes 2017 are sourced from vineyards in the warm Andes foothills of the Colchagua valley. This a fuller and more intense wine with rich red fruit flavors and herbaceous, mineral, and vegetal notes.
Visit the TerraNoble website to learn more about their wines.
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One of the many reasons I love Sangiovese is how beautifully it expresses the diverse terroirs of Tuscany. Chianti, Chianti Classico, and Brunello di Montalcino may be Tuscany’s best-known Sangiovese-based wines, but Vino Nobile di Montepulciano also has a rich history and authentic sense of place.
Contucci's vineyards in Montepulciano
image courtesy of Contucci
I recently tasted Contucci Rosso di Montepulciano 2018 DOC ($29.99) and Contucci Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2015 DOCG ($39.99). If you’re not too familiar with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Contucci is a lovely introduction. The Contucci family is one of the oldest in Montepulciano; their roots in the region can be traced back to the eleventh century and their historic cellars are from the thirteenth century. Sangiovese grapes in the Contucci vineyards
image courtesy of Contucci
First things first – don’t confuse Vino Nobile di Montepulciano with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, the latter is from a different region and made from the Montepulciano grape. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano hails from a specific zone in southern Tuscany and must contain at least 70% Sangiovese, which is locally known as “Prugnolo Gentile”. Contucci's historic cellars
image courtesy of Contucci
Contucci Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2015 is a blend of 80% Sangiovese and 10% each of Colorino and Canaiolo Nero. Aged for 24 months in big oak barrels, with an additional 6 months of bottle aging, the wine elegantly balances freshness with layered flavors of fruit, spice, and earth. Finesse and flavor!
Contucci Rosso di Montepulciano 2018 is the flirty and fresher counterpart to the Vino Nobile. 80% Sangiovese and 20% Canaiolo Nero, the Rosso was aged for 6 months in large oak barrels and an additional 3 months in bottle. Fruit-forward and juicy with bright flavors of crisp and crunchy black cherries; this sip has a straightforward and approachable style that is very appealing. Both Contucci wines were lovely reminders that I really should drink more Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.
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Michael Accurso, winemaker, EnRoute
image courtesy of EnRoute
During my recent Instagram Live chat with EnRoute winemaker Michael Accurso, I discovered that his passion for Pinot Noir is only rivaled by his great sense of humor and love of cooking. That certainly makes sense: if he hadn't become a winemaker, Michael considered careers as a professional chef or comedian! But don't let his easygoing nature fool you; Michael is a precise and serious winemaker.
Founded in 2007 by the partners of Far Niente winery in Napa Valley, EnRoute is committed to crafting wines that express the essence of Pinot Noir from Sonoma's Russian River Valley. Michael describes the diverse terroir of EnRoute's vineyards as a spice rack because of the different elevations, range of soil types, and various clones. Michael draws from this spice rack of flavors to make EnRoute's unique expressions of single-vineyard Pinot Noir wines and the Les Pommiers blend.
Click the video above, or watch on IGTV or YouTube, to learn more about EnRoute, what makes the Russian River Valley so special, and Michael's favorite food pairings with EnRoute Pinot Noir -- he really loves duck and wild mushrooms!
During our chat, we sipped EnRoute “Les Pommiers” Pinot Noir 2018, Russian River Valley ($60), and EnRoute “Northern Spy Vineyard” Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley ($85). Les Pommiers blends Pinot Noir grapes primarily from EnRoute's vineyards in the Green Valley and upper Middle Reach areas of the Russian River Valley AVA. Fresh and vibrant with pristine red fruit flavors and hints of earth, Michael describes Les Pommiers as the quintessential Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Northern Spy Vineyard is crafted 100% from Pinot Noir grapes grown from a single-vineyard in the Green River Valley. Richer and more intense, its plush red fruit flavors are accented by hints of spice and forest floor. Both wines are beautifully balanced and full of life.
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If you're a fan of sparkling wines, it's time to pop the cork on a bottle of Méthode Cap Classique from South Africa. Made in the same precise and labor-intensive method as Champagne, the bubbles in Cap Classique wines are also created by a second fermentation in the bottle. However, don't think of Cap Classique as an imitation of Champagne; the process is the same, but these wines are an expression of South African terroir. And the wines of Graham Beck are an authentic introduction to the charms of Méthode Cap Classique. image courtesy of Graham Beck
Founded in 1983 by Cape Town native Graham Beck, the estate is located in the Western Cape of South Africa, near the town of Robertson. Robertson is a world away from France, but its limestone-rich terroir shares some similarities with Champagne. Cellarmaster Pieter "Bubbles" Ferreira said, “It’s the unique terroir – perfectly suited to the production of outstanding Cap Classique. We have the richest natural limestone deposits in the Western Cape. All our peers and competitors in the Cap Classique sparkling category are buying Robertson fruit, which is more forgiving and has more flavour than elsewhere. Limestone ensures low pH and natural acidity, so it’s ideal for bubblies.” Graham Beck cellarmaster, Pieter "Bubbles" Ferreira, has been with the estate since their first vintage.
image courtesy of Graham Beck
Graham Beck passed away in 2010, but Ferreira and the Beck family carry on his winemaking legacy. The Graham Beck portfolio includes a diverse selection of Méthode Cap Classique wines, including vintage, non-vintage, and rosé. And some pretty high profile people have toasted historical moments with their bubblies -- Graham Beck Brut Non-Vintage ($18) was served at Nelson Mandela’s 1994 inauguration and at President Barack Obama’s 2008 election night party, affectionately earning the wine a priceless nickname: “President’s Choice.”
One of the standout sips is Graham Beck Brut Zero 2012 ($30). A blend of 77% Pinot Noir and 23% Chardonnay, no dosage (sugar) was added, allowing the terroir and vintage to really shine through in each crisp sip. I love the elegant and confident nakedness of this bubbly.
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Vineyards at Fattoria di Magliano, in the heart of Tuscany's Maremma region.
Maybe I should have consulted a psychic or given a crystal ball a vigorous shake? I certainly would have benefitted from some forewarning that my October 2019 journey to the Maremma region of Tuscany would be my last trip abroad for the foreseeable future. As the COVID-19 pandemic continues to keep much of the world on lockdown, memories of past journeys are more precious than ever. Who knows when I'll travel overseas again, but I feel fortunate that the wines, landscapes, and people of Maremma are seared in my mind.
The world's love affair with Tuscany and its wines is well-established, but we often overlook that Tuscany is not a monolith; the region consists of several different winemaking areas. While Chianti and Montalcino may be household names, you're almost guaranteed to get a quizzical look when you mention Maremma, even though its viticultural history goes back to the Etruscans. Known as Tuscany's wildest region, surely no one could have imagined that the former malarial marshland would transform into one of its most acclaimed wine regions. Maremma's reputation for wildness is bolstered by the charmingly rustic butteri, cowboys and cattle breeders that are a treasured link to Maremma's past and still roam the landscape.
The beach at Maremma Regional Park, a protected 25,000 acre nature reserve.
Located in the southern part of Tuscany, Maremma Toscana DOC wines are produced across the entire province of Grosseto. Maremma's almost 9,000 hectares of vineyards span the breezy Maremma coastline, the slopes of the dormant volcano Mount Amiata, the Argentario peninsula, and Giglio Island. This diversity isn't just pleasing to the eye, but it also provides an abundance of unique soil and climatic conditions ideal for growing excellent grapes. And, we all know that excellent wines start with great grapes. Maremma is home to several charming indigenous grapes, including Ciliegiolo, which means little cherry. Ciliegiolo may be unfamiliar, but chances are you know its offspring; it is a parent of Sangiovese, Tuscany's most famous grape variety, and the foundation of many of its greatest wines. But an abundance of indigenous and international grape varieties also thrive in Maremma, including Sangiovese, Vermentino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.
There is no one style of Maremma wine. Maremma's crisp & mineral-driven whites, fruity reds, and complex age-worthy reds reflect the diversity of the terroir and grape varieties. The Consorzio Tutela Vini della Maremma Toscana (Consortium for the Protection of Maremma Toscana Wines), who graciously hosted my 2019 trip, stated that "Ripe fruit, subtle complexity, crispness and a pleasant mouth feel are common characteristics of the wines from Maremma. No other area in Tuscany can offer such a wide variety of wines, also due to the essential characteristics of the grape varieties grown here."
The COVID-19 pandemic may have temporarily clipped our travel wings, but the essence of Maremma is just a bottle away. Fill your glass with wines from one of these Maremma wines and let them transport you. Please note that I opted not to provide detailed tasting notes on the wines. I tasted many wonderful wines during my Maremma trip and these were some of my favorites. For tasting notes and other technical details, please click on the bottle or winemaker image; this will lead you the winery's website for additional information.
Rocca di Frassinello
A joint venture between the Chianti Classico estate Castellare di Castellina and the iconic French wine producers Domaines Barons de Rothschild - Château Lafite, Rocca di Frassinello is a prime example of the excitement and investment Maremma generates from established winemakers. Founded in 2007, 90 of the estate's 500 hectares are planted to vineyards.
Adding further allure to the estate's natural beauty, Rocca di Frassinello's stunning winery was designed by world-renowned architect Renzo Piano. Under the leadership of award-winning head winemaker Alessandro Cellai, Rocca di Frassinello's wines are acclaimed for their elegance and authenticity.
Suggested Wines:
Rocca di Frassinello 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 60% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot. $59
Rocca di Frassinello Baffonero 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Merlot. $240
Rocca di Frassinello Le Sughere di Frassinello 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 50% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. $24
L'Azienda Agricola Biologica Basile
I visited Maremma for the first time in 2015, and the afternoon I spent at Basile Organic Wine Farm was one of the highlights. So, it was a great pleasure to see Giovan Battista Basile again during my 2019 visit. Originally from Naples, Giovan left practicing law to work the vineyards when he and his brother Domenico purchased an abandoned hilltop vineyard in Maremma and poured their heart and soul into restoring the land. The winery was founded in 1999 and Giovan manages the organically farmed vineyards and vines.
Suggested Wine: Comandante 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 50% Sangiovese, 50% Merlot. ($25)
Famiglia Cecchi, an iconic producer of Chianti Classico, also saw Maremma's tremendous potential and acquired Val delle Rose in 1996. I visited Val delle Rose for the first time in 2015, and it was thrilling to see how the winery has evolved. Never losing sight of crafting wines that are true to the terroir, they also embrace innovation.
During my recent visit, I tasted several wines with winemaker Andrea Fioriello, including compelling expressions of Vermentino and Ciliegiolo. When asked about the aging of their wines in oak, Andrea said, "We use the wood as an instrument to make the wine more ready, more round, more soft." But he's careful to not overdo it and crafts wines with great freshness, grace, and minerality.
Suggested Wines:
Val delle Rose Cobalto 2017 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Vermentino. A unique Vermentino that was fermented in a combination of amphora, oak, and stainless steel vessels and aged 10 months on the lees. $26
Val delle Rose Ciliegiolo 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Ciliegiolo. $30
Tenuta Belguardo
Francesco Mazzei, Managing Director of Mazzei, is also president of the Consorzio Tutela Vini della Maremma Toscana. Established in 2014, this consortium of wine grape growers, winemakers, and wine bottlers protects and promotes the quality of Maremma Toscana DOC wines. Mazzei stated, "An appellation has to reflect what a territory is about, and Maremma is a place of many varieties."
Founded in 1435, Mazzei is another venerable Chianti Classico producer that set their sights on Maremma. The Mazzei family purchased their Maremma estate, Tenuta Belguardo, in the mid 1990's. Located in the heart of the Maremma, on the hills between Grosseto and Montiano, and next to the Tyrrhenian Sea, the 70-hectare property has an ideal terroir for cultivating expressive grapes of exceptional quality.
Suggested Wine: Tenuta Belguardo 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc. $60.
Fattoria di Magliano
Located in the heart of Maremma, Fattoria di Magliano was founded in 2007. Their consulting winemaker, Graziana Grassini, is one of Italy's most acclaimed enologists and was a protégé of the legendary Giacomo Tachis. Fattoria di Magliano's gorgeous estate includes 52 acres of vineyards where they grow Sangiovese and Vermentino primarily, in addition to Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Ansonica. The wines of Fattoria di Magliano display impressive exuberance and vitality, but are also very elegant and earthy.
Suggested Wines: Fattoria di Magliano Altizi 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Cabernet Franc. $65
Fattoria di Magliano Poggio Bestiale 2014 Maremma Toscana DOC. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot. $60
Alessandro Gallo, winemaker and technical director for Rocca di Montemassi hails from Piemonte, but he still typifies the positive energy of the winemakers I met in Maremma: no matter where they're originally from, their love of this land is intense. Alessandro describes Rocca di Montemassi as a "wine farm" where winemaking is in harmony with other agricultural activities.
The 430-hectare estate, of which 180 are planted to vines, is also home to Maremmana cows, wheat fields, and olive trees. The Zonin family, a family with seven generations of winemaking experience and nine wineries in seven of Italy's most important wine regions, acquired the property in 1999.
Suggested Wine: Rocca di Montemassi 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 35% Syrah, 35% Petit Verdot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. $30.
Sassotondo
Agronomist Carla Benini, and her husband Edoardo Ventimiglia, purchased their Maremma estate in 1994 and produced their first vintage in 1997. Sassotondo's organically-farmed vineyards are alive with biodiversity, a testament to Carla's belief that "biodiversity protects you". Sassotondo's portfolio includes several expressions of Ciliegiolo that were vinified differently to showcase this indigenous grape's capacity to create distinct styles of wine.Suggested Wine: Sassotondo Ciliegiolo 2018 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Ciliegiolo. ($18)
Maremma is More Than Wine
View from my room at the boutique hotel, Torre Cala Piccola.
Wine is beautifully integrated into Maremma's culture, but the region is full of treasures. Stunning landscapes, historical sites, and world-class dining make it a top-notch destination. For accommodations, I recommend the luxurious Terme di Saturnia Spa & Resort, where you can soak your troubles away in their world-famous ancient thermal waters. If you're craving a more laidback seaside vibe, Torre Cala Piccola is perched above the Argentario Sea and has breathtaking views of Giulio and Giannutri islands. Hotel Miramare is no-frills but comfortable and the beach is right at your feet!
From rustic country fare to haute cuisine, I ate like a queen in Maremma. Recommended restaurants: Da Caino in Montemerano, where Chef Valeria Piccini presents an elegant twist on homestyle cooking.
Chef Valeria Piccini, Da Caino restaurant
Chef Piccini's "Tortelli Cacio e Pere con Salsa de Barba Rossa (pasta stuffed with pear & cheese, with Barba Rossa grape sauce)
Seafood lovers will gobble every fresh morsel presented by Chef Massimiliano Ciregia at Osteria del Mare in Castiglione della Pescaia.
Chef Ciregia's interpretation of the traditional fish stew, Cucciucco.
I look forward to returning Maremma again one day and feeling as blissful as I did when this photo was taken in the vineyards of Rocca di Frassinello. Until then, I'll sip and daydream!
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image courtesy of Early Mountain
Believe it or not, every state in the USA makes wine, even Alaska! California accounts for about 85% of American wine production, and while other states can't match their quantities, many are also producing world-class wines, including Virginia. If you've never tasted a wine from Virginia, I encourage you to start with some sensational sips from Early Mountain. Nestled in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Early Mountain's 300-acre property is planted with 55-acres of vineyards. They craft their wines with diverse grape varieties, including Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malvasia Bianca, Sauvignon Blanc, and Tannat.
Recently, I tasted a trio of unique Early Mountain wines that were perfect thirst-quenchers on these hot summer days: the fresh and fizzy 2019 Early Mountain Pét-Nat Blanc ($32) and two chillable reds -- 2019 Early Mountain Soif ($26) and 2019 Young Wine Red ($24).
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Times have dramatically changed since I started blogging twelve years ago. Newer social media platforms like Instagram have fostered a vibrant and influential wine community. Surely, I'm not the only one that spends too much time scrolling through photos of beautiful vineyards and mouthwatering wines. In addition to my Instagram Live interview series, I frequently post wine reviews on Instagram and thought it would be great to start sharing reviews of the standout wines here on the blog.
I recently tasted two superb wines from Lail Vineyards in Napa Valley - Blueprint Sauvignon Blanc 2018 ($40) and Blueprint Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($90). Winery founder, Robin Lail, can trace her family's winemaking history in Napa back to 1879 with the founding of the legendary Inglenook. Twenty-five years ago, Robin founded Lail Vineyards with her daughters, Erin and Shannon. Lail has embraced "carbon farming" techniques that minimize carbon dioxide production and maximize carbon sequestration without sacrificing wine quality. Robin is also the U.S. Representative to The Porto Protocol, whose mission is "to drive collaborative action by bringing together a network of change-makers and workable climate solutions for and within the wine world."
Lail Vineyards says that the name Blueprint celebrates "the pioneers and architects of innovation for putting the health of our planet ahead of quarterly reports and the bottom line." Lail donates ten percent of sales from Blueprint wines purchased on their website to organizations fighting climate change. Lail's winemaker is the wildly talented and acclaimed Philippe Melka.
in Cabernet Sauvignon, California, Sauvignon Blanc, wine grapes, Winemaker, Women in Wine | Permalink | Comments (0)
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Savennières, Loire Valley
image courtesy of Loire Valley Wines
Like many of you, it's been at least six months since I've traveled beyond my hometown's borders. Hopping a flight for a wine-centric journey fuels my daydreams, but I'm continuing to explore the world through wine. Recently, I took a virtual journey to the Loire Valley with three charming Chenin Blanc wines. Known as the Garden of France, the Loire Valley is France's leading producer of white wines, and the indigenous Chenin Blanc grape is the heart and soul of many of these wines. Because of its natural acidity and fruitiness, Chenin Blanc is incredibly versatile and can produce sweet, dry, sparkling, lean, or rich wines. There's a style of Loire Valley Chenin Blanc that's just right for each mood and meal, and many of these wines are very affordable.
I was recently invited by Loire Valley Wines to taste a trio of Chenin Blanc wines from three different AOC's – Saumur, Vouvray, and Savennières.
Aromatic and luscious Domaine de L'Enchantoir Terres Blanches Saumur 2018 ($20) is a charming thirst-quencher with fresh citrus and chamomile flavors.
La Forcine Vouvray Demi-Sec 2018 ($15) is a perky sip with lively flavors of citrus and tropical fruits. A lovely choice for those moments when you're craving wine with a hint of sweetness.
Château d’Épiré Savennières Grand Cru d'Anjou 2017 ($25) is an elegant expression of a dry Chenin Blanc that is still delightfully fruit-forward. Crisp and clean with stone fruit, citrus, and mineral flavors.
Grilled halloumi cheese served with marinated grapes, olive oil and mint. Fish a la Plancha, sesame soy-glaze with sautéed kale and radish.
I paired my wines with a meal inspired by the flavors of South African and Israeli cuisine from Jack's Wife Freda restaurant in NYC – thank goodness for delivery. But Loire Valley Chenin Blanc is incredibly versatile and can pair brilliantly with a range of flavors. Pop a bottle and pair it with seafood, salad, mild cheeses, roasted chicken with herbs, simple pasta dishes, spicy foods, and Asian flavors.
in Chenin Blanc, French Wine, Loire Valley, Wine, wine grapes | Permalink | Comments (0)
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"I believe that drinkability is at the center of quality."
Alberto Antonini, Consulting Winemaker, Mandrarossa
A few months before COVID-19 forced our retreat into socially distanced bubbles, I had the pleasure of meeting with renowned winemaking consultant Alberto Antonini. We had never met before, but I certainly didn't need an introduction. For years, Alberto's name had popped up during my wine studies; I would often drink a wine that I enjoyed and discover that he had consulted on its creation.
A native of Tuscany, Alberto has worked with some of Italy’s most celebrated producers, including Frescobaldi, Antinori, and Col d’Orcia, but he’s really the world’s winemaker. For more than 20 years Alberto has consulted for top producers in Italy and beyond, including Argentina, Chile, South Africa, Portugal, Canada, Uruguay, Australia, and Armenia.
I recently reconnected with Alberto on Instagram Live to taste the wines he consults on for Mandrarossa in Sicily. Located in the southwest of Sicily, in the historic town of Menfi, Mandrarossa was founded in 1999 and Alberto has worked with the winemaking team from the beginning. An important part of his work has been devoted to identifying the top estates within Menfi’s micro terroirs to produce Mandrarossa’s premium line of estate-bottled wines.
Watch our chat by clicking the video above, visiting IGTV, or YouTube to learn more about Alberto's fascinating career and winemaking philosophy. Committed to crafting textured wines with drinkability, Alberto never wants to impose his signature on the wines. Instead, his goal is to make wines that reflect their true essence, not the hand of the winemaker.
During our chat, we tasted two wines from the Mandrarossa portfolio.
Mandrarossa Bertolino Soprano Sicilia DOC 2017 (Grillo) $42.99
Alberto said that Grillo is often described as "Sicily's Chardonnay". I've sipped a fair amount of Grillo over the years, and have always enjoyed its fresh and lively nature, but Mandrarossa takes Grillo to the next level. I never knew that Grillo had the capacity for aging and this was my first experience with Grillo that was more than a year old. This Grillo also spent time in concrete, steel, and oak. The end result is a beautifully textured and round wine that is full but not bulky and retains Grillo's vibrant and fresh citrus flavors. There's a delicious hint of salinity in this Grillo that calls to mind Sicily's sultry Mediterranean breezes.
Mandrarossa Terre del Sommacco Sicilia DOC 2016 (Nero d’Avola) $49.99
Nero d'Avola is Sicily's most famous red wine and every winemaker approaches it in a unique way. Alberto's approach does not obscure the freshness and beauty of the grapes. This is an impressively fresh and graceful Nero d'Avola that epitomizes Alberto's commitment to drinkability. Aged in stainless steel, concrete, and oak, it is silky and very approachable without sacrificing complexity. Beautiful red berry and black cherry flavors get extra oomph from hints of herbs and minerality. Gorgeous vino!
in Grillo, Nero d'Avola, Sicily , Wine, wine grapes, Winemaker | Permalink | Comments (0)
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"Wine is a matter of personal search. People should not be shy and should go their own way. Sometimes I have friends bringing me a bottle of wine coming from another village, another region, and it's always fun to discover. Don't be shy. You don't have to be educated to appreciate wine. Listen to your feelings, your sense, your palate. Wine is not complicated. Wine is a matter of pleasure. Don't make it more complicated than it is."
- Philippe Pascal, Owner, Domaine du Cellier aux Moines
I must confess that I approached my recent Instagram Live chat with Philippe Pascal, owner of Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, with a bit of trepidation. In addition to my worries about my very shaky pronunciation of French, I wondered if the owner of a prestigious Burgundy estate might be too serious for the inherent goofiness and spontaneity of Instagram Live. Well, I am happy to say that my fears were unfounded. Down-to-earth, funny, knowledgeable, and passionate, Phillipe was a fascinating guest. And he was completely unbothered by the honks and sirens wafting in from my busy Manhattan street!Click here to watch our chat on IGTV.
In 2004, Philippe, and his wife Catherine, left the corporate world behind and purchased Domaine du Cellier aux Moines. Founded in 1130 by Cistercian monks, over the centuries, the monks survived wars and plagues and produced wines that graced the tables of royalty and popes. When Catherine and Philippe purchased the property, it was in danger of disappearing, and they meticulously restored the estate’s ancient buildings and wine cellar.
For fans of Pinot Noir, Burgundy represents the crème de la crème, and the wines are loved for their authentic sense of place, elegance, and longevity. But my conversation with Philippe reminded me that Burgundy is not a monolith. Domaine du Cellier aux Moines is located in the Côte Chalonnaise, in Givry, an area that Philippe describes as underappreciated.
I encourage you to watch the video above, on IGTV, or YouTube. Philippe engagingly weaves historical facts with his personal journey. And his charming daughter Margot even joined us on camera occasionally and showed me their gorgeous vineyards. And if you want to learn even more, pour yourself a glass while reading Nine Centuries in the Heart of Burgundy: The Cellier Aux Moines and Its Vineyards, which was co-authored by Philippe.
While chatting, we sipped Clos du Cellier aux Moines, Givry Premier Cru 2017 ($65). 100% Pinot Noir, as all wines classified as red Burgundy are, this is a voluptuous, complex, and captivating red wine. Far from austere but still extremely elegant, this unfiltered red is full of life and character.
in Burgundy, France, French Wine, Pinot Noir, Wine, wine grapes | Permalink | Comments (0)
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"People tasting wines at home seem to interpret wines in a different way. Maybe it's because they're surrounded by the usual tastes and aromas. And maybe it's also because they're more relaxed. They tend to sense wine a lot better and I think that's important."
- Count Francesco Marone Cinzano
It isn't everyday that you get to beam a count into your living room for a wine tasting, but thanks to technology, that's exactly what I did! The charming and erudite Count Francesco Marone Cinzano recently joined me on Instagram Live for a tasting of his beautiful Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino. Col d’Orcia means “the hill overlooking the Orcia River” and it is one of the original estates of Montalcino -- its rich winemaking history dates back to the 1700s. Committed to sustainability, Col d’Orcia is now the largest certified organic estate in Tuscany and they poetically refer to themselves as an organic island.
Joining the Instagram Live chat from the vineyard, Count Cinzano shared tasting notes on Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2015 ($55) and Col d’Orcia Poggio al Vento Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2013 ($150). Both wines are a pure, powerful, and elegant expression of 100% Sangiovese. In response to the COVID-19 pandemic, Count Cinzano is offering wine lovers around the world to join him online for a guided Smart Tasting from the comfort of their homes. He loves the input that he receives from these tastings and says "People tasting wines at home seem to interpret wines in a different way. Maybe it's because they're surrounded by the usual tastes and aromas. And maybe it's also because they're more relaxed. They tend to sense wine a lot better and I think that's important."
Watch our conversation on YouTube or IGTV.
Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2015 ($55)
Aged three years in oak casks and another year in bottle before release, this 2015 may be young by Brunello standards but it is remarkably approachable and balanced. Over time it will reveal even more complexity, but 2015 is an exceptional Five Star Vintage and the wine is singing beautifully now. Classic and fresh with a kiss of spice.
Col d’Orcia Poggio al Vento Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2013 ($150)
During our chat, Count Cinzano shared that this was the first certified organic vintage of this Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. The wine is aged a minimum of six years prior to release; four years in Slavonian and French oak casks followed by at least two years refinement in bottle. This wine is an excellent example of the aging potential of a meticulously crafted Brunello di Montalcino. This wine will reveal even more nuance and finesse in the decades to come but right now it is superb. Intense and graceful with impeccable balance.
in Brunello, Italy, Montalcino, Tuscany , Wine, wine grapes, Winemaker | Permalink | Comments (0)
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When it’s safe to travel again, Sicily is definitely a place I want to revisit. Until that day arrives, I was delighted to travel through my wine glass with Alessio Planeta, owner of Planeta winery in Sicily. Planeta’s authentic and award-winning wines showcase the diversity and beauty of Sicilian wine. Not just one winery or vineyard, Planeta encompasses six distinct wine estates across Sicily, each one inspired and constructed in harmony with its surroundings and dedicated to its terroir. During our conversation, we tasted 2017 Eruzione 1614 ($35), 2018 Cerasuolo di Vittoria ($25), and 2016 Santa Cecilia Nero d’Avola ($44).
Watch the video below, on YouTube or IGTV to learn more!
90% Carricante and 10% Riesling. Crisp and zesty with great minerality and salinity. You can really taste the influence of Mt. Etna's volcanic soils.
60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato. Cerasuolo di Vittoria is Sicily's only DOCG wine. Fresh and fruity frappato blends beautifully with the bolder and more intense Nero d'Avola. Vibrant flavors of wild fruits, strawberries, cherry, and pomegranate with a kiss of black pepper.
100% Nero d'Avola. Rich and bold, but not jammy, this elegant vino has beautiful layers of rich fruit, earth, and spice flavors.
in Sicily, Wine, wine grapes, Winemaker | Permalink | Comments (0)
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