Wine With Wanda

The Charming "Bad" Boys of Verona: The Pasqua Brothers Break the Rules to Make Great Wines

Brothers, business partners, and the nicest bad boys you'll ever meet, Alessandro and Riccardo Pasqua. 

Brothers Alessandro and Riccardo Pasqua are rebels with an admirable cause: save a historic family winery that was floundering. Disruptive in the best sense of the word, when they took charge of Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine in 2014, they knew that defying convention would be the secret to their success. And they were right. Under their leadership, Pasqua has been garnering attention and accolades for their innovative and high-quality wines. 

In 1925, the first generation of Pasqua brothers ventured from their homeland of Apulia in the south of Italy to prosperous Verona, in the northern Veneto region. Alessandro and Riccardo represent the third-generation and their creativity and business savvy have taken Pasqua to new heights. “I’d like to make Pasqua the 'Ambassador of Italian cool,’ the coolest, most disruptive winemaker in Italy, with wineries located in all the iconic areas of the country,” said Riccardo, the elder brother and CEO, or more accurately, Disruptor-in-Chief of the company. Alessandro, co-owner and VP of the Americas, oversees the US market from NYC.  

Founded in the 1st century BC and forever famous as the setting for Shakespeare's Romeo & Juliet, beautiful Verona is steeped in history and tradition. One of Italy's most important winemaking regions; its rolling hills outside of the city center are the cradle of Amarone and Soave wines. Pasqua had everything they needed to succeed but Riccardo said, "When I joined Pasqua in 2007, the winery was struggling: Year after year we were losing market share, and a divided board of two against two didn’t help. Plus, in the U.S. we were doing nothing.” My how times have changed -- Pasqua wines are now available in more than 50 countries and the US is their biggest market. 


Romeo & Juliet Passione Sentimento Bianco Veneto IGT 2017 ($16) is the perfect starting point for understanding Pasqua's unconventional approach to winemaking. The Valpolicella region is renowned for majestic and unique Amarone wine - a robust red made from dried grapes. Pasqua applies that drying technique, known as appassimento, to Garganega grapes to create this sensational white wine. Garganega is the grape used to make the region's traditional Soave wine, so Romeo and Juliet pays a nod to both traditions in a deliciously disruptive fashion. The drying process concentrates the flavors of the grapes and this wine balances that richness with freshness. The wine is round and luscious with great acidity and beautiful citrus and tropical flavors with a hint of almond and cream. Dedicated to Verona's status as a romantic city, the colorful label pays homage to Shakespeare's ill-fated lovers and the messages left by visitors to Verona at Juliet’s house on Cappello Street. 


Romeo & Juliet Passione Sentimento Rosso Veneto IGT 2017 ($16) beautifully melds tradition and modernity. Corvina, one of the traditional Amarone grapes, is blended with Croatina and Merlot. A portion of the Merlot and Corvina is dried (appassimento) in small crates in the fruttaio, an airy room above the cellar, to concentrate their sugars and fruits. This rich juice is then blended with that of the non-dried grapes. The end result of this incredibly intricate winemaking technique is a juicy red with velvety tannins and bold cherry and plum flavors with a kiss of spice and mint. It truly over-delivers for $16! 



The best Amarone wines balance power and richness with grace  -- Mai Dire Mai Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2011 ($100) hits the mark. Mai Dire Mai translates to 'never say never'. A blend of dried Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Oseleta grapes from mineral-rich soils, the robust nature of the wine is balanced by refreshing acidity. Bold dark berry flavors are balanced by lively acidity and kisses of chocolate, clove, espresso, and herbs. Sultry and superb! 

Mom always told me to stay away from bad boys but even she would approve of the Pasqua brothers. Their commitment to family and crafting unique but authentic wines is admirable. After our meeting, I certainly felt inspired to continue following my passions. On my next trip to Verona, I'll be sure to pay Pasqua winery a visit. I know my visit will have a happier ending than Romeo and Juliet! 

Red, White & Romantic: Sartori di Verona Unveils Love Story Wines

The Love Story collection includes sparkling Soave, Pinot Grigio, Rosé, and Pinot Noir. 

The acclaimed Italian winery Sartori di Verona has bottled their passion for wine and romance into a charming new collection called Love Story. Founded in 1898, Sartori di Verona is an epic story of the Sartori family's unwavering commitment to winemaking and deep love for their city of Verona.

The setting for Shakespeare's classic tale of star-crossed lovers, Romeo & Juliet, romance is an integral part of Verona's identity. Verona is also a wine lover's paradise. Located in the Veneto region, Verona is surrounded by some of Italy's most important wine regions; including Valpolicella and Soave. Captivating, elegant, and vibrant; Verona is a magical city and Love Story wines are a delicious homage. And maybe you can't buy love, but a bottle of Love Story wine only costs $14 - $16. Love Story wines are affordable but don't skimp on quality. After all, the name Sartori is on every bottle! 

Love Story Sparkling Soave DOC ($16)
Romance and sparkling wine are a perfect pair! Pop the cork and get the spark ignited with this crisp and charming sparkling Soave. 100% Garganega, this fresh and flirty dry bubbly has lively apple, citrus, and nectarine flavors with fine bubbles.  Easygoing and elegant! 



Love Story Pinot Grigio 2017 DOC ($14)
This Pinot Grigio has molto personality! Incredibly crisp and juicy with fresh melon & citrus flavors, impressive minerality, and a finish as long as a great kiss! 



Love Story Rosé 2017 ($14)
There's something unabashedly coquettish about rosé; the pink hue really seduces the eye. Pale pink like ballet slippers, Love Story Rosè is a lovely blend of Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara; the same grapes that are used in the traditional Amarone blend. Fresh and graceful with subtle flavors of cherry, strawberry, and watermelon; this summer sip is delightfully dry and fruity. 



Love Story Pinot Noir 2015 ($14)
A beautifully balanced Pinot Noir with rich dark cherry flavors and hints of peppery spice, clove, and earthy black tea leaves. Luscious and smooth with vibrant acidity. You can even serve this slightly chilled on a steamy day. A really impressive red at any price point. 

Judge Wines, Not People: Life & Vine Lessons from Bertani Amarone Academy

Hands on winemaking! Bertani winemaker Andrea Lonardi puts the squeeze on fermenting Amarone grapes. 

Even the most committed teetotaler would find resistance futile after hearing winemaker Andrea Lonardi, of Italy's iconic Bertani winery, wax poetic about grapes and terroir. Andrea doesn't just make wine, he lives it. From the vineyard to the cellar to the bottle, Andrea obsesses over every detail to ensure that each sip of Bertani is an authentic expression of place and time. I recently had the opportunity to experience a bit of this endearing intensity at the invitation-only Bertani Amarone Academy. With Andrea as our guru, an eclectic & enthusiastic group of writers, sommeliers, and influencers gathered in Verona to explore the nuances of wine and learn some important life lessons. 

Lesson 1: Know Your History, Be Open to Change


Brothers and prosperous wine merchants Giovan Battista and Gaetano Bertani founded their namesake winery in 1857, north of Verona in Quinto di Valpantena. From the very beginning, the Bertani brothers believed that quality winemaking was the key to the future and their intuition was prescient. In addition to Valpantena, Bertani also owns vineyards in Soave and Lake Garda. The Bertani portfolio includes a full spectrum of classic wines from the Veneto but they are perhaps most celebrated as the standard bearer of traditional Amarone. 

Bertani introduced longer aging techniques to transform the traditionally sweet or sparkling red Recioto della Valpolicella into the opulent and complex dry red wine that we know as Amarone. The first vintage of Bertani Amarone was released in 1958.   

image courtesy of Bertani

Amarone is made using the appassimento method of intensifying the flavors of the grapes by drying them for several months before fermentation. Many other Amarone producers use modern interventions to speed along appassimento but Bertani still naturally and slowly air-drys their Corvina Veronese and Rondinella grapes on bamboo cane mats. Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG is aged for six years in Slavonian oak casks, plus one year in the bottle before it is released.

The meticulous and patient nature of Bertani's winemaking process imbues their Amarone with the structure and integrity needed to age beautifully. The grapes are treated with respect throughout the winemaking journey and we are rewarded with superb wine that stands the test of time. I tasted a 1967 Bertani Amarone that was exquisite and all signs indicate that recent vintages will also evolve gracefully for decades to come. 

Bertani is rightfully proud of their legacy but they aren't complacent. "Is your wine good today? Is it recognized today, is what matters. You can't rest on history. We are old but open to new things," said Andrea. Those new things include eliminating pesticides, investing the time and resources into truly understanding their terroir, and adopting more intuitive and effective pruning methods. 

Lesson 2: Close Your Eyes to Really See


I never knew that I could feel such emotion towards a grapevine. Yes, intellectually I always understood the importance of the vine -- without it, there's no wine. Yes, I knew pruning techniques impact a vine's ability to produce the best grapes but I must confess that aspect of winemaking never excited me very much. Well, that indifference disappeared on a hilltop in Valpolicella. Each participant in the Bertani Amarone Academy was asked (required) to demonstrate that we had paid attention to Andrea Lonardi's detailed pruning seminar by actually pruning a vine. Me? A native Manhattanite with countless dead houseplants in my past was being allowed to prune a living, breathing vine?

I approached the vine with trepidation and actually introduced myself. With Andrea's voice echoing in my head, I then closed my eyes as he had instructed. Eyes tightly shut, I placed my gloved hands on the trunk of the vine and began to explore, to "see" each part by feeling. Since harvest had already passed, the naked vine had seemed vulnerable when I laid eyes on it but I could feel its strength and energy. There was a moment of revelation when my hands landed on the areas that needed to be clipped by the pruning shears. I opened my eyes and began to cut. Since returning home, I've included that vine in my prayers, hoping that it continues its legacy of producing wonderful grapes. I look forward to tasting the 2017 vintage!

Lesson 3: Judge Wines, Not People
 

Amarone, like Barolo and Brunello, has become synonymous with luxury. But just because a wine is technically Amarone does not guarantee an authentic expression of the wine. Modern Amarone often has very high levels of alcohol & residual sugar and can taste like a liquified holiday fruit cake. Is this authentic or just some winemakers responding to a globalization in taste? What makes one Amarone more authentic than another? Whenever we decide that we do or don't like a wine, we're passing a judgement but what criteria are we using to reach that decision? "Judge wines, not people," said Andrea. And to judge wines, you have to understand the terroir and evaluate the wine on how it reflects terroir. For Andrea, "Better wines means better wines from the terroir. Judge the terroir!" Bertani grows their grapes in the soil types and vineyard locations that best nurture their finest and most authentic expression. It is truly terroir-driven winemaking.  

Lesson 4: If You Know the Truth, You Can't Be Deceived

If you know what to look for, your wine can't lie to you. Close your eyes and take a sip. Is the taste of the wine an authentic reflection of the region, grapes, and terroir? For Bertani, this commitment to authenticity is a link that unites all of their wines. Starting with their Valpolicella and moving in complexity towards Ripasso and Amarone; I discovered that even in a blind tasting the Bertani style is readily identified across all categories. 


Bertani Valpolicella DOC 2016 ($14.99)
A lovely shade of deep ruby red, this blend of mostly Corvina Veronese with a touch of Rondinella has a Pinot Noir-ish elegance and suppleness. Silky tannins and fresh flavors of cherry, raspberry, plum, and a hint of spicy clove give this fresh red plenty of personality and nuance. A great introduction to the Bertani style!


Bertani Valpolicella Ripasso 2014 DOC ($25.99)
A blend of mostly Corvina Veronese with touches of Merlot and Rondinella, Ripasso (which means "passing again") experiences a second fermentation with the grape skins of Recioto Amarone. A bridge that connects lighter-bodied Valpolicella with opulent Amarone, Bertani Ripasso is full and round but maintains vibrancy and grace. Flavors of black cherry, blackberry, and black plum are elegantly energized by a touch of licorice.


     A terrific trio: winemaker Andrea Lonardi, Bertani president Emilio Pedron, and a bottle of their Amarone della Valpolicella Classico.

Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2008 DOCG ($130)
One of the most revelatory things about Bertani Amarone is its clear connection to their Valpolicella and Ripasso. Bertani Amarone does not exist in a vacuum, devoid of any resemblance to its lighter-bodied brethren. A blend of Corvina Veronese and  Rondinella, Bertani Amarone is rich & voluptuous, energetic & lithe, complex & approachable. Although it is an intense wine, the vibrancy of the fruit remains intact and harmonizes beautifully with touches of vanilla, spice, and hazelnuts. A wine for the ages.

Lesson Five: Always Express Gratitude 

A most sincere thank you to everyone at Bertani and Palm Bay International (their importer in the United States) for such a beautiful experience and education. Bertani Amarone Academy embodied everything that I love about wine: learning and stepping out of my comfort zone, spending time with people that share my passion, and better understanding a culture through wine. Grazie! 

A very heartfelt thank you to SNODAR (Sovrano e Nobilissimo Ordine dell’Amarone e del Recioto) for welcoming me into their ancient order (founded in 1320) as a Cavalieri. I promise to share the beauty and legacy of Amarone and Recioto wherever I go! 

 

The Elegantly Unpredictable Wines of Sartori di Verona

"There is little demand for good quality wines. Today they have to be very good indeed."
Andrea Sartori, President, Sartori di Verona

When your great-grandfather was the founder of one of Italy's most respected wineries, the pressure to sustain the family legacy can be overwhelming but Andrea Sartori approaches his destiny with admirable grace and aplomb. Founded in 1898 by Pietro Sartori, Sartori di Verona is one of the Veneto's "Big Five" wine producers and has grown tremendously under Andrea's leadership. His success has not gone unnoticed by his peers and Andrea served an unprecedented two terms as president of the Unione Italiana Vini -- Italy's principal wine producers' trade group.


After meeting with Andrea, I am convinced that his success as a wine producer is not only attributed to his business savvy and enological expertise, but also his insatiable curiosity for the world around him. A talented photographer and avid world traveler, Andrea displays a genuine reverence for tradition AND enthusiasm for innovation. Two of my favorite wines in the Sartori di Verona portfolio are modern expressions of Andrea's heartfelt connection to his elders: Ferdi and Regolo were named after his grandmother and grandfather.

Sartori di Verona Ferdi Bianco Veronese IGT ($17) 
Lovingly named after his grandmother, Andrea daringly describes Ferdi as a "white Amarone." Whoa, white Amarone? If you're a fan of regal & rich red Amarone, you know that's pretty revolutionary! Made from 100% Garganega grapes, Ferdi utilizes the Amarone technique of drying the grapes before pressing (appassimento) to reduce water content and increase the sugar and color. What surprised me most about Ferdi is that although it displayed tremendous depth and complexity, it maintained freshness and vibrancy. Dry with lively acidity that keeps it from being cloying, Ferdi's tapestry of flavors include apricot, pear, and hazelnut. Ferdi is a pretty, but far from boring white wine with enough structure to pair with grilled seafood, aged cheeses, and pasta. 



Sartori di Verona Regolo Rosso Veronese IGT ($23)
Named after Andrea's grandfather, Regolo is a friendly and flavorful wine produced from 100% Corvina - one of the key grapes in the Amarone blend. In fact, Regolo gets a complexity boost from time spent resting on Amarone pomace, which increases its aromatics and aging potential. Supple and velvety, Regolo is full-bodied but graceful with appealing cherry and red berry flavors. Pair this delightful dry wine with steak, lamb, and aged cheeses. 


Sartori di Verona Corte Brá Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC ($58)
Ferdi and Regolo beautifully showcase how Amarone inspires Sartori di Varona, so it isn't a surprise that they produce a mighty fine Amarone. The grapes for this impressive vino are sourced from their Corte Brá vineyard in the northern hills of Verona. The grapes (Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Oseleta) are air-dried for 3 to 4 months and only the best are selected for fermentation. The wine is aged in oak casks for about 4 years, followed by at least 6 months of bottle aging. The end result is a rich and voluptuous wine with robust flavors of dried fruits, plum, figs, and ripe berries with a touch of herbs and balsamic. Power and grace co-exist beautifully in this bottle. Pair with roasts, steaks, chops, and aged cheeses. 

Ready to take your palate on a sophisticated and exciting journey to Verona? Visit the Sartori di Verona website to browse their diverse & impressive portfolio of wines.