Charles Braastad, Managing Director, is the 9th generation to produce Delamain Cognac.
One of my favorite teachers would jokingly promise us precocious teenagers a snifter of his finest Cognac as a reward for a particularly insightful comment. His classroom manner may raise eyebrows today but it seared the impression that Cognac was the tipple of choice for the elegant and erudite as they sat by fireplaces reading great works of literature. That Masterpiece Theatre-ish image of Cognac has always stayed with me but a recent tasting with Charles Braastad of Delamain Cognac reminded me that just like my adored teacher, Cognac is classic but far from stuffy.
Delamain may not be as well-known to the masses as the Cognac brands that are name-checked in pop music and splashed in glitzy ads but they are highly regarded by aficionados and their roots run deep in the region. In Cognac, the Delamain name can be traced back to 1625 and in 1639 their ancestor Nicolas Delamain was knighted by Charles I and received the coat of arms that adorns their bottles of Cognac. Truly a family business, today Delamain is managed by Charles and his cousin Patrick Peyrelongue, both direct descendants of James Delamain who charted the family's future as Cognac producers in 1762 when he partnered with his father-in-law.
Delamain emphasizes quality over quantity and Charles said that it takes them a year to produce what the bigger brands produce in two days! But what they do produce is exceptional. Delamain Cognac is made exclusively from Grande Champagne eau-de-vie. The Cognac region, located 60 miles north of Bordeaux on France's coast and split by the Charente River, is divided into six different sub-regions (Crus) and Grande Champagne is officially considered the very best. Not to be confused with the sparkling wine Champagne, Grande Champagne is named for its chalky soil, which is also common in the land of bubbly. Cognac begins its life as wine produced from Ugni Blanc grapes. These very thin and acidic wines don't have enough finesse to drink as is but magic happens when they are double-distilled to create the high-alcohol eau-de-vie that will be aged in French oak to become the brandy known as Cognac.
The cellars at Delamain
While some producers manipulate their Cognacs with caramel to enhance their color and sugar to boost sweetness, Delamain prefers a less interventionist approach and Charles said, "You don't have to add anything, you just have to wait. This is not commercial Cognac." It takes beaucoup patience for Delamain cellarmaster Dominique Touteau to craft their Cognacs - the minimum age of any Delamain used in a blend is 20 years.
Location is also one of Delamain's key assets and their aging cellars benefit beautifully from their proximity, 150 yards, from the banks of the Charente River - it naturally balances humidity and rates of evaporation. Once casks have reached their peak, the cellarmaster begins the blending process. While others dilute their Cognacs with water, Delamain brings the final blend down to consumption strength by the fractional addition of extremely old Cognacs from which much of the alcohol has evaporated. The blended elements spend two years in the cellar to mature in unison before bottling. There are no shortcuts at Delamain - patience, expertise, and passion are essential.
So how does Delamain taste? My past experience with Cognac has not always been pleasurable and I've often found them too strong and aggressive. But I'm also a big believer in sipping out of your comfort zone and my love of wine has actually enhanced my appreciation of spirits. Delamain expresses a tangible connection with the grape instead of obliterating its essence with oak and alcohol. Deftly balancing the strength and complexity of fine Cognac with freshness and finesse, Delamain is Cognac that I can sip with pleasure. And although many, including my beloved teacher, love the drama of a big-bowled snifter, follow Charles' expert advice and sip Cognac from a small & thin tulip-shaped glass. The right glass really does enhance Cognac's aromas and how the flavors are perceived on your palate. Cognac isn't for guzzling, it is a drink that requires you to spend time savoring its charms as it reveals each layer and nuance. Delamain Cognac is an elegant and timeless time-out from the craziness of modern life.
Delamain Cognac Pale & Dry X.O ($119.99)
The palest X.O Cognac on the market, Delamain Pale & Dry is a great introduction to their minimalist approach of not manipulating their Cognac with caramel and sugar and proves Charles' sage advice to "never judge a Cognac by its color." A blend of 20-25 year old Cognacs that are blended together and then aged in bottle for another 2 years, Pale & Dry is a luminous shade of amber. Quite light and graceful on the palate with flavors of peach and apricot and a subtle hint of spicy clove, this is a Cognac that can be appreciated by newbies and aficionados. An impressively pure expression of Grande Champagne Cognac. (Note: XO stands for Extra Old. Legally, XO Cognacs cannot contain any eau-de-vie less than 6 years old. Clearly, Delamain exceeds this minimum requirement.)
Delamain Cognac Vesper X.O ($199.99)
Charles describes Vesper as a "meditative Cognac" to enjoy by the fireplace, cigar optional! A blend of 30-35 year old Grande Champagne Cognacs, it is darker and deeper than Pale & Dry. Sultry and rich with flavors of dark fruit, spice, and herbs, it is full-bodied, but not overpowering, with an impressively lingering finish that is a Delamain signature.
Delamain Cognac L'Aigle X.O ($189.99)
Adorned with the eagle from the Delamain family crest, L'Aigle XO takes you on a sensory adventure. A big and bold Grande Champagne Cognac that elegantly balances complexity and richness with levity and grace, L'Aigle is an impressive tapestry of floral, nut, fruit, spice, and chocolate flavors.
