Wine With Wanda

A Tuscan Dream Come True: The Wines of Rocca delle Macìe

When I first met Sergio Zingarelli, President of Rocca delle Macìe winery, in November 2019, there was no crystal ball around to warn us that we were living in the good old days: life before the Covid-19 pandemic. Sitting around a table at a Manhattan restaurant, our group of wine professionals didn’t know that global turmoil was just around the corner. Still, we instinctively laughed and savored each sip of his family’s wines because it was clearly a moment to treasure. Thank goodness for those memories. They were a sustaining force during the endless days of social distancing when it seemed like sitting side-by-side in enclosed spaces was destined for the history books.

It's hard to believe that almost 3 years had passed since my first tasting with Sergio Zingerelli. 

Well, don’t count out the human spirit, especially when paired with the power of science. Now that most of the world is vaccinated and boosted, the situation has vastly improved. And because of this progress, in September 2022, almost three years since our first tasting, I had the pleasure of meeting with Sergio again for a vertical tasting of the 2010 -2018 vintages of his eponymous Sergio Zingarelli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG. Impeccably tailored and with the manners to match, Sergio is rightfully proud of what his family has accomplished in the world of wine.

Many wineries have an intriguing backstory, but the story of Rocca delle Macìe is genuinely cinematic. Sergio’s father, Italo Zingarelli, led a colorful life worthy of a biopic: He had a brief career as a boxer before transitioning to work in film as an extra and stuntman. That opened the door for the elder Zingarelli’s impressive career as a film producer, and director of popular “Spaghetti Western” films, including They Call Me Trinity and Trinity Is Still My Name. Italo’s success in the film industry enabled him to fulfill his dream of owning a wine estate in Tuscany. “And so, in 1973, in contrast to all those who at the time were fleeing the countryside to work in the city, he purchased a rundown 14th-century borgo in Castellina in Chianti and set about painstakingly restoring the buildings, thus giving rise to the Rocca delle Macìe winery,” said Sergio.

In 1984, Sergio joined his father at Rocca delle Macíe and worked his way up to his current leading man role of President. Italo passed away in 2000 but remains a source of inspiration for Sergio and his siblings: “My father managed to infuse me, my brother Fabio, and my sister Sandra with his great passion for Tuscany and for the art of winemaking, as well as with the desire and enthusiasm to continue writing the never-ending story that binds the art of wine-making to the life of man.”

Sitting across the table from Sergio and knowing the story of his family certainly adds more texture, nuance, and energy to the tasting experience. But the wines stand on their own. Elegant with a freshness that endures even in older vintages, they are a sippable and sophisticated snapshot of time and place.

Our tasting focused on the single-vineyard Sergio Zingarelli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG. Sergio told me that the vineyard is visible from his kitchen window. Representing the top tier of the Chianti Classico pyramid, Gran Selezione is a relatively new category introduced in 2014. It has secured its position as a stellar and age-worthy expression of Sangiovese.

Like a well-made movie, the story of Rocca delle Macìe has many layers -- passion, creativity, family, and true grit. And the wines capture this complexity in an energetic and elegant style. And who doesn’t love a happy ending where dreams come true?

Tasting Notes

The 2015 and 2016 vintages of Sergio Zingarelli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG are currently available in the US marketplace and sell for about $100 per bottle. The 2017 vintage is coming soon, and 2018 should reach American shores in 2023.

2015 and 2016 were both exceptional vintages in Chianti Classico. Both Sergio Zingarelli wines are 100% Sangiovese with impressive balance and freshness. I found 2015 a bit more opulent and luscious than 2016 – rich and round with pops of spice; it reverberates on the palate like an opera diva with precision and passion. 2016 is slightly more restrained and less va va voom. A bit shy in the beginning, its bright and rich flavors open beautifully in the glass. 2017 was a hotter vintage, and although the ripeness of the fruit is more pronounced, it is not jammy -- the freshness is still there. I did get a sneak peek of 2018; it is still a baby by Gran Selezione standards, but the structure and freshness are promising signs.

And, if you’re looking for a refreshing white wine with character, I recommend their 2021 Campo Maccione Vermentino ($16) from Rocca delle Macìe’s estate in Tuscany’s coastal Maremma region. A subtly salty kiss of the sea meshes perfectly with its flavors of white peach, lemon, and a pop of pineapple.

From Montalcino to Maremma: A Conversation with Tancredi Biondi Santi

Tancredi Biondi Santi, Castello di Montepó

Any discussion of Italian wine history would be incomplete without acknowledging the contributions of the Biondi Santi family. In the 1800's, Ferruccio Biondi Santi planted the first vineyard in Montalcino with a clone of Sangiovese. That grape was Sangiovese Grosso, the soul of the iconic wine Brunello di Montalcino. Bottles of Brunello bearing the Biondi Santi name have long captivated wine lovers, but the family has spread their wings beyond Montalcino to Maremma and their hilltop winery estate in southern Tuscany, Castello di Montepò. 


Castello di Montepò Sassoalloro 2015 ($35) is fresh and crisp, with bright cherry flavors and juicy acidity. An elegant sip! 

I recently had the pleasure of catching up with Tancredi Biondi Santi on Instagram Live -- we first met in New York in 2018. Tancredi proudly represents the seventh generation of the Biondi Santi winemaking dynasty. During our chat, we sipped Sassoalloro 2015 and discussed how his family's proprietary Sangiovese Grosso clone, known as BBS11, responds to the unique terroir of Castello di Montepò. Scroll down or click here to watch our conversation! 

There's More Than 1000 Years of History in a Bottle of Contucci Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

One of the many reasons I love Sangiovese is how beautifully it expresses the diverse terroirs of Tuscany. Chianti, Chianti Classico, and Brunello di Montalcino may be Tuscany’s best-known Sangiovese-based wines, but Vino Nobile di Montepulciano also has a rich history and authentic sense of place. 

Contucci's vineyards in Montepulciano
image courtesy of Contucci

I recently tasted Contucci Rosso di Montepulciano 2018 DOC ($29.99) and Contucci Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2015 DOCG ($39.99). If you’re not too familiar with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Contucci is a lovely introduction. The Contucci family is one of the oldest in Montepulciano; their roots in the region can be traced back to the eleventh century and their historic cellars are from the thirteenth century. 

Sangiovese grapes in the Contucci vineyards
image courtesy of Contucci

First things first – don’t confuse Vino Nobile di Montepulciano with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, the latter is from a different region and made from the Montepulciano grape. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano hails from a specific zone in southern Tuscany and must contain at least 70% Sangiovese, which is locally known as “Prugnolo Gentile”.

Contucci's historic cellars
image courtesy of Contucci 

Contucci Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2015 is a blend of 80% Sangiovese and 10% each of Colorino and Canaiolo Nero. Aged for 24 months in big oak barrels, with an additional 6 months of bottle aging, the wine elegantly balances freshness with layered flavors of fruit, spice, and earth. Finesse and flavor! 

Contucci Rosso di Montepulciano 2018 is the flirty and fresher counterpart to the Vino Nobile. 80% Sangiovese and 20% Canaiolo Nero, the Rosso was aged for 6 months in large oak barrels and an additional 3 months in bottle. Fruit-forward and juicy with bright flavors of crisp and crunchy black cherries; this sip has a straightforward and approachable style that is very appealing. Both Contucci wines were lovely reminders that I really should drink more Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. 

Maremma Memories: Where the Tuscan Spirit is Wild and the Wines are Magical

Vineyards at Fattoria di Magliano, in the heart of Tuscany's Maremma region. 

Maybe I should have consulted a psychic or given a crystal ball a vigorous shake? I certainly would have benefitted from some forewarning that my October 2019 journey to the Maremma region of Tuscany would be my last trip abroad for the foreseeable future. As the COVID-19 pandemic continues to keep much of the world on lockdown, memories of past journeys are more precious than ever. Who knows when I'll travel overseas again, but I feel fortunate that the wines, landscapes, and people of Maremma are seared in my mind.  

The world's love affair with Tuscany and its wines is well-established, but we often overlook that Tuscany is not a monolith; the region consists of several different winemaking areas. While Chianti and Montalcino may be household names, you're almost guaranteed to get a quizzical look when you mention Maremma, even though its viticultural history goes back to the Etruscans. Known as Tuscany's wildest region, surely no one could have imagined that the former malarial marshland would transform into one of its most acclaimed wine regions. Maremma's reputation for wildness is bolstered by the charmingly rustic butteri, cowboys and cattle breeders that are a treasured link to Maremma's past and still roam the landscape.


The beach at Maremma Regional Park, a protected 25,000 acre nature reserve. 

Located in the southern part of Tuscany, Maremma Toscana DOC wines are produced across the entire province of Grosseto. Maremma's almost 9,000 hectares of vineyards span the breezy Maremma coastline, the slopes of the dormant volcano Mount Amiata, the Argentario peninsula, and Giglio Island. This diversity isn't just pleasing to the eye, but it also provides an abundance of unique soil and climatic conditions ideal for growing excellent grapes. And, we all know that excellent wines start with great grapes. Maremma is home to several charming indigenous grapes, including Ciliegiolo, which means little cherry. Ciliegiolo may be unfamiliar, but chances are you know its offspring; it is a parent of Sangiovese, Tuscany's most famous grape variety, and the foundation of many of its greatest wines. But an abundance of indigenous and international grape varieties also thrive in Maremma, including Sangiovese, Vermentino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.

There is no one style of Maremma wine. Maremma's crisp & mineral-driven whites, fruity reds, and complex age-worthy reds reflect the diversity of the terroir and grape varieties. The Consorzio Tutela Vini della Maremma Toscana (Consortium for the Protection of Maremma Toscana Wines), who graciously hosted my 2019 trip, stated that "Ripe fruit, subtle complexity, crispness and a pleasant mouth feel are common characteristics of the wines from Maremma. No other area in Tuscany can offer such a wide variety of wines, also due to the essential characteristics of the grape varieties grown here."

The COVID-19 pandemic may have temporarily clipped our travel wings, but the essence of Maremma is just a bottle away. Fill your glass with wines from one of these Maremma wines and let them transport you. Please note that I opted not to provide detailed tasting notes on the wines. I tasted many wonderful wines during my Maremma trip and these were some of my favorites. For tasting notes and other technical details, please click on the bottle or winemaker image; this will lead you the winery's website for additional information.  

Rocca di Frassinello


A joint venture between the Chianti Classico estate Castellare di Castellina and the iconic French wine producers Domaines Barons de Rothschild - Château Lafite, Rocca di Frassinello is a prime example of the excitement and investment Maremma generates from established winemakers. Founded in 2007, 90 of the estate's 500 hectares are planted to vineyards.

Adding further allure to the estate's natural beauty, Rocca di Frassinello's stunning winery was designed by world-renowned architect Renzo Piano. Under the leadership of award-winning head winemaker Alessandro Cellai, Rocca di Frassinello's wines are acclaimed for their elegance and authenticity.

Suggested Wines: 


Rocca di Frassinello 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 60% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot. $59

Rocca di Frassinello Baffonero 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Merlot. $240



Rocca di Frassinello Le Sughere di Frassinello 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 50% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. $24

L'Azienda Agricola Biologica Basile


I visited Maremma for the first time in 2015, and the afternoon I spent at Basile Organic Wine Farm was one of the highlights. So, it was a great pleasure to see Giovan Battista Basile again during my 2019 visit. Originally from Naples, Giovan left practicing law to work the vineyards when he and his brother Domenico purchased an abandoned hilltop vineyard in Maremma and poured their heart and soul into restoring the land. The winery was founded in 1999 and Giovan manages the organically farmed vineyards and vines.

Suggested Wine: Comandante 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 50% Sangiovese, 50% Merlot. ($25)

Val delle Rose

Famiglia Cecchi, an iconic producer of Chianti Classico, also saw Maremma's tremendous potential and acquired Val delle Rose in 1996. I visited Val delle Rose for the first time in 2015, and it was thrilling to see how the winery has evolved. Never losing sight of crafting wines that are true to the terroir, they also embrace innovation.


During my recent visit, I tasted several wines with winemaker Andrea Fioriello, including compelling expressions of Vermentino and Ciliegiolo. When asked about the aging of their wines in oak, Andrea said, "We use the wood as an instrument to make the wine more ready, more round, more soft." But he's careful to not overdo it and crafts wines with great freshness, grace, and minerality. 

Suggested Wines:


Val delle Rose Cobalto 2017 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Vermentino. A unique Vermentino that was fermented in a combination of amphora, oak, and stainless steel vessels and aged 10 months on the lees. $26 


Val delle Rose Ciliegiolo 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Ciliegiolo. $30

Tenuta Belguardo


Francesco Mazzei, Managing Director of Mazzei, is also president of the Consorzio Tutela Vini della Maremma Toscana. Established in 2014, this consortium of wine grape growers, winemakers, and wine bottlers protects and promotes the quality of Maremma Toscana DOC wines. Mazzei stated, "An appellation has to reflect what a territory is about, and Maremma is a place of many varieties."

Founded in 1435, Mazzei is another venerable Chianti Classico producer that set their sights on Maremma. The Mazzei family purchased their Maremma estate, Tenuta Belguardo, in the mid 1990's. Located in the heart of the Maremma, on the hills between Grosseto and Montiano, and next to the Tyrrhenian Sea, the 70-hectare property has an ideal terroir for cultivating expressive grapes of exceptional quality. 

Suggested Wine: Tenuta Belguardo 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc. $60. 

Fattoria di Magliano


Located in the heart of Maremma, Fattoria di Magliano was founded in 2007. Their consulting winemaker, Graziana Grassini, is one of Italy's most acclaimed enologists and was a protégé of the legendary Giacomo Tachis. Fattoria di Magliano's gorgeous estate includes 52 acres of vineyards where they grow Sangiovese and Vermentino primarily, in addition to Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Ansonica. The wines of Fattoria di Magliano display impressive exuberance and vitality, but are also very elegant and earthy.

Suggested Wines: Fattoria di Magliano Altizi 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Cabernet Franc. $65


Fattoria di Magliano Poggio Bestiale 2014 Maremma Toscana DOC. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot. $60

Rocca di Montemassi

Alessandro Gallo, winemaker and technical director for Rocca di Montemassi hails from Piemonte, but he still typifies the positive energy of the winemakers I met in Maremma: no matter where they're originally from, their love of this land is intense. Alessandro describes Rocca di Montemassi as a "wine farm" where winemaking is in harmony with other agricultural activities.


The 430-hectare estate, of which 180 are planted to vines, is also home to Maremmana cows, wheat fields, and olive trees. The Zonin family, a family with seven generations of winemaking experience and nine wineries in seven of Italy's most important wine regions, acquired the property in 1999.

Suggested Wine: Rocca di Montemassi 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 35% Syrah, 35% Petit Verdot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. $30. 

Sassotondo


Agronomist Carla Benini, and her husband Edoardo Ventimiglia, purchased their Maremma estate in 1994 and produced their first vintage in 1997. Sassotondo's organically-farmed vineyards are alive with biodiversity, a testament to Carla's belief that "biodiversity protects you".  Sassotondo's portfolio includes several expressions of Ciliegiolo that were vinified differently to showcase this indigenous grape's capacity to create distinct styles of wine.

Suggested Wine:  Sassotondo Ciliegiolo 2018 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Ciliegiolo. ($18)

Maremma is More Than Wine


View from my room at the boutique hotel, Torre Cala Piccola. 

Wine is beautifully integrated into Maremma's culture, but the region is full of treasures.  Stunning landscapes, historical sites, and world-class dining make it a top-notch destination. For accommodations, I recommend the luxurious Terme di Saturnia Spa & Resort, where you can soak your troubles away in their world-famous ancient thermal waters. If you're craving a more laidback seaside vibe, Torre Cala Piccola is perched above the Argentario Sea and has breathtaking views of Giulio and Giannutri islands. Hotel Miramare is no-frills but comfortable and the beach is right at your feet! 

From rustic country fare to haute cuisine, I ate like a queen in Maremma. Recommended restaurants: Da Caino in Montemerano, where Chef Valeria Piccini presents an elegant twist on homestyle cooking.


Chef Valeria Piccini, Da Caino restaurant 



Chef Piccini's "Tortelli Cacio e Pere con Salsa de Barba Rossa (pasta stuffed with pear & cheese, with Barba Rossa grape sauce) 




Seafood lovers will gobble every fresh morsel presented by Chef Massimiliano Ciregia at Osteria del Mare in Castiglione della Pescaia. 

 Chef Ciregia's interpretation of the traditional fish stew, Cucciucco. 

I look forward to returning Maremma again one day and feeling as blissful as I did when this photo was taken in the vineyards of Rocca di Frassinello. Until then, I'll sip and daydream! 

900 Years Old and Still Going Strong: Ricasoli 1141 Continues to Innovate in Chianti Classico

Francesco Ricasoli
President & Owner, Ricasoli 1141
32nd Baron of Brolio

When your family's winemaking history can be traced back to 1141, the family tree is bound to have some exciting twists and turns. In my recent Instagram Live chat with Francesco Ricasoli, we dug into the roots of his family's iconic winery, Ricasoli 1141. Not only are they Italy's oldest winery, Ricasoli 1141 is the fourth oldest family business in the world. The family tree includes Baron Bettino Ricasoli; not only did he serve twice as the Prime Minister of Italy and play a prominent role in its unification in 1861, but in 1872 he also developed the original formula for the wine we know today as Chianti Classico. 

 When travel is possible and prudent again, consider a visit to Castello di Brolio. Guests can enjoy wine tastings, guided tours of the cellar and vineyards, and meals at Osteria di Brolio. 

Located in the heart of Tuscany's Chianti Classico region, in Gaiole in Chianti, Ricasoli's Castello di Brolio (Brolio Castle) sits majestically on 3,000 hilltop acres. 600 acres of the estate are planted to sustainably farmed vineyards, making it the largest estate in Chianti Classico under vine. In 1993, Francesco Ricasoli, 32nd Baron of Brolio, purchased back the family business after more than 20 years of foreign ownership. His innovation and determination have enabled Ricasoli to reclaim their former glory and take their wine to new heights. By spearheading a total renovation and re-mapping of the vineyards, Baron Ricasoli was able to reveal how Sangiovese grapes display distinct qualities depending on soil type and altitude. This valuable information enables Ricasoli 1141 to produce a broad range of Chianti Classico wines that are true depictions of terroir.  

During our chat, we discussed Ricasoli 1141's past, present, and future while sipping Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2015 ($70) and Casalferro Merlot 2008 ($70). Watch the video above, on IGTV, or YouTube to learn more, including Ricasoli's tasting notes and wine pet peeves. 


Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2015 ($70)
Representing the top tier of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid, Ricasoli 1141 only produces Gran Selezione in the best vintages. A blend of Sangiovese (90%), Cabernet Sauvignon (5%), and Petit Verdot (5%), this is a robust but graceful expression of Chianti Classico. Beautifully balanced with a long finish.  

Only produced in the best vintages, Casalferro Merlot 2008 ($70) is a single-vineyard Merlot. The grapes were planted in a former Sangiovese vineyard, leading Barone Ricasoli to describe the Merlot as "Chiantified." This is not an overly plummy Merlot, it is quite complex with a balanced interplay between fruit and minerality with a hint of spice. Rich but so very vibrant and fresh at 8 years old! 

Certified Organic & Absolutely Elegant: Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino

 

"People tasting wines at home seem to interpret wines in a different way. Maybe it's because they're surrounded by the usual tastes and aromas. And maybe it's also because they're more relaxed. They tend to sense wine a lot better and I think that's important." 

- Count Francesco Marone Cinzano

It isn't everyday that you get to beam a count into your living room for a wine tasting, but thanks to technology, that's exactly what I did! The charming and erudite Count Francesco Marone Cinzano recently joined me on Instagram Live for a tasting of his beautiful Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino. Col d’Orcia means “the hill overlooking the Orcia River” and it is one of the original estates of Montalcino -- its rich winemaking history dates back to the 1700s. Committed to sustainability, Col d’Orcia is now the largest certified organic estate in Tuscany and they poetically refer to themselves as an organic island.

Joining the Instagram Live chat from the vineyard, Count Cinzano shared tasting notes on Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2015 ($55) and Col d’Orcia Poggio al Vento Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2013 ($150). Both wines are a pure, powerful, and elegant expression of 100% Sangiovese. In response to the COVID-19 pandemic, Count Cinzano is offering wine lovers around the world to join him online for a guided Smart Tasting from the comfort of their homes. He loves the input that he receives from these tastings and says "People tasting wines at home seem to interpret wines in a different way. Maybe it's because they're surrounded by the usual tastes and aromas. And maybe it's also because they're more relaxed. They tend to sense wine a lot better and I think that's important." 

Watch our conversation on YouTube or IGTV.

Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2015 ($55)
Aged three years in oak casks and another year in bottle before release, this 2015 may be young by Brunello standards but it is remarkably approachable and balanced. Over time it will reveal even more complexity, but 2015 is an exceptional Five Star Vintage and the wine is singing beautifully now. Classic and fresh with a kiss of spice. 

Col d’Orcia Poggio al Vento Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2013 ($150)
During our chat, Count Cinzano shared that this was the first certified organic vintage of this Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. The wine is aged a minimum of six years prior to release; four years in Slavonian and French oak casks followed by at least two years refinement in bottle. This wine is an excellent example of the aging potential of a meticulously crafted Brunello di Montalcino. This wine will reveal even more nuance and finesse in the decades to come but right now it is superb. Intense and graceful with impeccable balance. 

 

 

An Iconic Taste of Tuscany: Tenuta Luce Shines Bright on Its 25th Anniversary

“Our family has devoted centuries of our life to the world of fine wines.”
Marchese Lamberto Frescobaldi, President, Tenuta Luce 

For any lover of Italian wine, Frescobaldi needs no introduction. This noble Tuscan family's winemaking legacy spans more than 700 years, and they are committed to producing wines that celebrate Tuscany's beauty and diversity. I recently had the pleasure of chatting with Marchese Lamberto Frescobaldi on Instagram Live about a relatively new but significant chapter in the family's history -- Tenuta Luce in Montalcino. 

Founded 25 years ago as a collaboration with the Mondavi family, Tenuta Luce created Luce, Montalcino's first blend of Sangiovese and Merlot. The partnership with Mondavi ended in 2004 and Lamberto Frescobaldi has directed the project since then. The newly released 2017 vintage marks the 25th anniversary of this iconic vino. Watch the video of my conversation with Marchese Frescobaldi below, on YouTube, or Instagram Live to learn more about Tenuta Luce's history, winemaking philosophy and current vintages. 

The 25th anniversary bottle of Luce is decorated with words inspired by Marchese Frescobaldi's father, Vittorio: “Here is the memory of the vineyard and of the work, of the earth, and of the sun, of listening to time and to the singing of the seasons.”

During our chat, we sipped Tenuta Luce 2017 ($135). "Appearing a deep ruby, on the nose it offers intense scents of ripe berry fruit and dark-fleshed fruit. With aging, Luce develops a minerally edge and the pungent fragrances of Mediterranean scrub. Its dense, velvety tannins contribute to the wine’s magnificent structure, while the palate, remarkably full-bodied, progresses into a notably lengthy finish."


We also sipped Luce Brunello di Montalcino 2015 ($155). 100% Sangiovese, it was crafted as a tribute to Montalcino and its traditions. "Here is a noble, forceful wine with significant ageing potential. Appearing ruby red with garnet highlights, Luce Brunello vaunts a vibrant acidity and spice-laden structure, while silky tannins gradually unfold on the palate, revealing an elegance and multi-layered complexity that drive to a lengthy, intense conclusion."

Watch the video to learn more about Tenuta Luce and for Marchese Frescobaldi's tasting notes. 

 

 

It Started in Florence: How Tenuta di Lilliano Chianti Classico Came Into My Life

Alessandro Ruspoli represents his family's winery, Tenuta di Lilliano, around the world. 

It was a chilly night in Florence when our dinner hosts, politely yet firmly, nudged a giddy entourage of wine professionals into taxis after a Chianti Classico fueled dinner. Dinner had sashayed past the scheduled time, but in Italy you don't rush good wine and good conversation. Tucked into a tiny taxi with two dapper Italian gentlemen, our small talk took an interesting turn when the eldest, an internationally renowned Italian wine expert, admonished me and exclaimed, “How could you not know Tenuta di Lilliano? They are one of the most important wineries in Chianti Classico!” And that is how I met, Alessandro Ruspoli.

A few months later, I discovered that the outspoken gentleman in Florence wasn’t the only ardent fan of Alessandro and his family’s wines. When I received an invitation from wine marketing guru Tony DiDio to join him and Alessandro for dinner, I immediately said yes. So on a rainy night in Manhattan, in the cozy environs of Casa Apicci, I finally had the chance for a proper Tenuta di Lilliano tasting and conversation with Alessandro.

Easygoing and good-humored, Alessandro is endearingly down-to-earth for someone who hails from an ancient aristocratic family whose history in Tuscany can be traced back to the Renaissance. Their roots in Rome go back to the 17^th century and the family still resides in the historic Ruspoli palace in the heart of the Eternal City. Princess Eleonora Ruspoli Berlingieri was the first to recognize the winemaking potential of their Tuscan estate and began bottling Lilliano’s wines in 1958. And yes, that crest on the bottle is the real deal; it bears the coats of arms of the Ruspoli and Berlingieri families.


image courtesy of Tenuta di Lilliano

But it takes more than a rich history and an aristocratic lineage to make good wine. At the end of the day, the wine has to speak for itself. I’ve made no secret of my affection for Chianti Classico and Tenuta di Lilliano’s wines are impressive. When I taste a glass of Chianti Classico, I want to encounter an authentic expression of Sangiovese that is true to the character of the grape, transmits the essence of terroir, and displays winemaking that is precise but not over-manipulated. Tenuta di Lilliano meets that threshold.

If you’re looking for beautiful red wines to share with friends and family this holiday season, and all year round, give Tenuta di Lilliano a swirl. Elegant and enjoyable, their Chianti Classico wines have the sophistication needed to impress wine snobs, but they are also approachable for wine rookies. Very food-friendly, they pair brilliantly with a wide variety of foods, including pasta, poultry, red meat, and cheeses.


Tenuta di Lilliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2016 ($20)
A blend of Sangiovese (90%) with kisses of Colorino (5%) and Merlot (5%), it is fresh and supple with a hint of spice to rev up those classic red cherry flavors of Sangiovese.



Tenuta di Lilliano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2015 ($32)
100% Sangiovese, 2015 was an exceptional vintage in Chianti Classico and you can taste those ideal conditions in this captivating vino. With a beautiful balance between freshness and structure, this sip is quite appealing now and has great aging potential. 


 
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($36)
Gran Selezione represents the very top of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid and this is a worthy member of that elite club. A blend of Sangiovese (90%), Colorino (5%), and Merlot (5%), intermingled with rich and round fruit flavors are sassy savory notes of licorice and herbs. Lively acidity and tangible minerality round out this elegant composition.

image courtesy of Tenuta di Lilliano

If you’re planning a trip to Tuscany, Tenuta di Lilliano welcomes guests. Just a 45-minute drive from Florence, in addition to tastings they have luxury villas and apartments available for rent.

Sip This: Ruffino Modus Toscana 2016

Looking for a sensational super Tuscan at a fantastic price? Ruffino Modus Toscana IGT 2016 ($26) is a gorgeous blend of Sangiovese (39%), Merlot (35%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (26%). Chief winemaker, Gabriele Tacconi, describes Modus as “a pure Florentine wine” with "a foot in the past but something different". It certainly is an elegant expression of Ruffino’s Poggio Casciano estate, just twenty minutes from Florence.


“Modus is a wine with an ancient soul and a modern heart.”
- Gabriele Tacconi, Chief Winemaker, Ruffino



Blending is an art form that requires precision and patience to ensure that the resulting wine is harmonious. Modus certainly meets that standard. Aged for 12 months in French oak, it is silky yet substantial with luscious black cherry, plum, and blackberry flavors with sassy accents of sweet tobacco, spice, and a tinge of balsamic.

It's always a pleasure to taste with Gabriele. 

Latin for ‘Method’, Modus refers to the many elements that must come together to craft this wine - vines, sun, fruit, soil, and last but not least, people. For Gabriele, the importance of people in the winemaking process can't be overstated. "Without us wine is nothing. People are the most important element."

The first vintage of Modus was produced in 1997. I’ve had the chance to taste older vintages of Modus and it ages beautifully. And the affordable price point makes it possible to buy a few bottles of Modus to enjoy now and a few to store away for future enjoyment.

Terroir, Tradition, and a Touch of Magic: There's Something Special About Ricasoli Chianti Classico

Massimiliano Biagi (Agronomist and Technical Director) and Francesco Ricasoli (President and Owner of Ricasoli and 32nd Baron of Brolio)

It takes a person with extraordinary passion, patience, and determination to buy back their family’s business almost 20 years after it had been sold to a foreign entity. Baron Francesco Ricasoli is such a person. The Ricasoli family has been linked to wine since 1141 and they are documented as the oldest winery in Italy and the fourth oldest family business in the world. When Francesco regained ownership of their winery in 1993, he was also reclaiming Ricasoli’s esteemed position as a producer of superb Italian wines. After all, it was his great-grandfather, politician and wine visionary Bettino Ricasoli, that is credited for developing the signature Chianti blend, now called Chianti Classico. 

image courtesy of Ricasoli

Their Brolio Castle, located within the town limits of Gaiole in Chianti, sits majestically on their 3000-acre estate. 600 acres of the estate are planted to vineyards, making it the largest estate in Chianti Classico under vine. There are also 60 acres of olive groves.


In a recent tasting of Ricasoli wines, led by Francesco and the estate’s agronomist and technical director Massimiliano Biagi, I was impressed not only by the excellent quality of the wines but the diverse range of expression. Francesco described “Brolio as a magical place” and you can taste that special essence in the wines. One of the secrets to that magic is the estate’s many soil types and micro-climates.


It is also a bit magical that Francesco and Massimiliano are working together. As a little boy, Massimiliano played in front of Brolio Castle and never imagined that one day he would play such a pivotal role in creating Ricasoli’s celebrated wines.

image courtesy of Ricasoli

Ricasoli has devoted tremendous time and resources to studying the nuances of each unique zone and crafting wines that authentically express that specific terroir. They have identified 19 different soil types and all of Ricasoli’s vineyards are on hills, with altitudes ranging from about 600 to 1600 feet.

It’s no secret that I’m a big fan of Chianti Classico and Ricasoli is certainly in the top tier of quality producers. I recommend getting to know their wines with these 5 wines from 2015 and 2016, vintages that Francesco described as magical for their exceptional quality.

Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2016 ($22)
This crisp and juicy blend of Sangiovese (80%), Merlot (15%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%), is a charming introduction to the Ricasoli style. Aged for 9 months in tonneaux (large barrels), its fresh red fruit flavors, perky acidity, and smooth tannins make this an approachable but elegant expression of Chianti Classico. 



Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2016 ($30)
The Riserva has the same blend, proportions, and vintage as the Chianti Classico but was aged twice as long and spent 18 months in tonneaux. It is a bit more robust and complex hints of spice add verve to crisp and rich flavors of wild red fruit and black cherry.

Gran Selezione
Gran Selezione represents the very top tier of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid and Ricasoli produces different selections from different vineyard plots. Tasting them side by side is an excellent way to understand the impact of soil type on a wine’s flavor profile.


Ricasoli Colledilá Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($70)
A single vineyard wine, the Sangiovese grapes for Colledilá grow in soil that is very stony and rich in calcium -- one of the most representative types found in Chianti Classico. Aged for 18 months in tonneaux, Colledilà is described as “full with aromas of violet and iris coupled with ripe red fruits followed by hints of pepper and a whisper of white chocolate which give way to a full, velvety mouthfeel with soft tannins.” It also has an intense minerality and savory thread that is quite seductive.  

Ricasoli Roncione Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($85)
The soils of the Roncione vineyard contain mineral deposits from the Pliocene era. The official tasting notes describe Roncione as “intense ruby red color with garnet hues. Complex on the nose, with aromas of iris, violet and soft oaky notes. Sapid to taste, excellent acidity, which gives this Cru character and elegance. Robust finish, and aftertaste that reflects the aromas. A great expression of the Brolio marine deposit terroir.” 100% Sangiovese, Roncione’s red fruit flavors are intense and concentrated but a hint of salinity adds an energetic freshness that is quite intriguing.

Ricasoli CeniPrimo Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($85)
The Sangiovese grapes for CeniPrimo grow on the great valley of the River Arbia. The soil, which originates from an ancient river terrace dating back to the Pliocence-Pleistocene eras, is quite distinct and complex with some silty deposits, clay, and limestone. CeniPrimo is 100% Sangiovese and described as an “Intense ruby red color with slight garnet hues. Red fruits and delicate balsamic notes. Begins soft in the mouth, velvety and voluminous. The tannin is embracing, elegant and perfectly balanced with the acidity. A long, persistent finish, with character: an unique expression of Brolio’s ancient fluvial terrace.” Robust but not overwhelming, CeniPrimo has impeccable balance and energy.

Osteria di Brolio
image courtesy of Ricasoli

 If you’re planning a visit to Tuscany, Brolio Castle is one of the most celebrated destinations in wine country. Welcoming almost 50,000 visitors per year, guests can enjoy wine tastings, guided tours of the cellar and vineyards, and meals at Osteria di Brolio.


image courtesy of Ricasoli

You can also book an overnight stay at their charmingly restored 18th century farmhouse, Agriturismo Agresto. Located on a hill southwest of Brolio Castle, it is surrounded by vineyards. 

Bet on the Black Rooster: Drink More Chianti Classico!

Have you ever noticed the snazzy Black Rooster motif on a bottle of Chianti Classico? More than just a trademark, the bold logo has a rich history that dates back to medieval times. Legend has it that the crafty use of a hungry black rooster as an alarm clock gave Florence an advantage over Siena in an ongoing turf war for the Chianti region. Poultry prevailed and almost all of Chianti became part of the Republic of Florence.  


No actual roosters were sighted on my recent visit to Florence but the Gallo Nero logo was proudly displayed when I attended Chianti Classico Collection 2019, the annual grand tasting. From iconic wineries to newer players, almost 200 Chianti Classico producers, with more than 700 labels, showcased the fermented fruits of their labor at the stunning Stazione Leopolda, a former train station. Wine trade from around the globe descended upon Florence to swirl, sip, schmooze, and voice their opinion.

My verdict: Chianti Classico is better than ever. The level of quality, consistency, and sheer drinkability is at an all-time high. From annata (vintage) to Riserva to Gran Selezione, I was blown away by the stellar quality represented by every tier of the Chianti Classico pyramid. Chatting with the producers, it became abundantly clear that they have invested tremendous energy and resources in elevating the quality of their wines. Each winemaker I met was passionate about crafting wines that authentically represent their land and offer a pure expression of Sangiovese; the grape that is the foundation of Chianti Classico.


map courtesy of Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico 

It is important to note that Chianti Classico is not a monolith and its 177,500 acres are composed of several sub-appellations. According to the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, these include the entire territories of the municipalities of Castellina in Chianti, Gaiole in Chianti, Greve in Chianti and Radda in Chianti and parts of Barberino Tavarnelle, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Poggibonsi, and San Casciano Val di Pesa. These aren’t just geographical distinctions; the micro-climates and soil types of each region have an impact on the wine’s attributes. It is also extremely important to always remember that although Chianti Classico and Chianti are both Sangiovese based wines, they are two distinct DOCG's with different production regulations and zones.

To take Chianti Classico for granted is a huge mistake. Maybe it’s not the hot and trendy new wine region but Chianti Classico is not stagnant. It does not embrace tradition at the expense of innovation; Chianti Classico excels at both. For example, the 2013 introduction of Gran Selezione to the very top of the quality pyramid is reserved exclusively for Chianti Classico produced from the finest grapes from a single vineyard and these wines must be aged a minimum of 30 months, including 3 months in bottle. The quality of these wines is exceptional. 

Yes, these technical details of winemaking are important but during my time at the Chianti Classico Collection 2019 I was also impressed and enchanted by the people that I met. The level of camaraderie between the winemakers and their mutual respect for one another reminded me that competitors don’t have to be enemies. More than once, I heard a winemaker sing the praises of another and they would encourage me to taste the wines of their peers too, sometimes even walking me to their table. That’s genuine camaraderie and further proof that wine really is a bridge that brings people together.

Maybe you haven’t had Chianti Classico in a while -- now is the time to get reacquainted. Many of the wines are affordably priced and stellar quality can be found at all levels. So the next time you’re looking for a great bottle of wine to share with friends, I encourage you to choose a bottle of Chianti Classico. It’s impossible for me to highlight every producer but here are four of the fabulous people that I chatted with in Florence. Two of the wineries were familiar to me, and two were new discoveries, but they all make fantastic Chianti Classico.

Forgive me for sounding like a broken record; nearly every time that I’ve written about 4th generation wine producer Andrea Cecchi I’ve described him as the quintessential Tuscan gentleman. He is. I’ve had the pleasure of tasting wine with Andrea on his visits to NYC but seeing him in Florence was pure joy! The Cecchi family’s elegant wines represent the beautiful diversity of Chianti Classico. After all, they do have more than 125 years of winemaking experience; Sangiovese runs in their veins! I’m a big fan of their Cecchi Valore di Famiglia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($59.99) from their estate in Castellina in Chianti.100% Sangiovese, it is velvety and vibrant with exemplary purity and balance.


It wouldn’t be exaggerating to say that from the moment I arrived in Florence, I wandered around searching for Luigi Cappellini. I first met Luigi in 2016 when he and his lovely wife Silvia hosted a tasting of their wines in New York City. I was instantly enchanted by their warm personalities and beautiful wines. In 1958, the Cappellini family acquired this historic estate in Greve in Chianti that once belonged to the family of famed explorer Giovanni da Verrazzano. Castello di Verrazzano is a founding member of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico and the estate is certified organic. Try their Chianti Classico DOCG 2016 ($26). A beautiful expression of a classic Chianti Classico, it has power and finesse. 

Guido Carissimo, the founder of Carus kept me laughing when I stopped by his table in Florence. But make no mistake, Guido is very serious about his wines. Guido founded Carus in the mid 1990’s and is committed to producing terroir-driven wines with care and creativity. Located in San Casciano in Val di Pesa, their olive groves and grape vineyards are organically farmed. Their Baldéro Chianti Classico DOCG 2013 ($20) is mostly Sangiovese with a small amount of Merlot. Aged almost entirely in stainless steel, this snappy red is impressively crisp and fresh.

One of the many things that I love about winemaking is that it is often a multi-generational family affair. Gregorio Boscu Bianchi Bandinelli and his father Andrea were working side by side at the Chianti Classico Collection 2019 to share their family’s Villa di Geggiano wines. Villa di Geggiano has been the family home and winery of the Bianchi Bandinelli family since 1527. Their vineyards are located in the southern part of the Chianti Classico region in the municipality of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Some Italian friends told me that I absolutely must try the Villa di Geggiano wines and I’m so glad I did. A blend of 97% Sangiovese and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon their Villa di Geggiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2012 ($45) is elegant, balanced, and full of life.

Elegant, Exciting, Enduring: Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino

Tasting wine with Count Francesco Marone Cinzano is a sure-fire way to banish boredom. Bold and elegant with a quick wit, Cinzano and his wines never fail to captivate. I’ve sipped wine with Cinzano several times over the years at events in New York City and I finally had the pleasure of visiting his acclaimed winery, Col d’Orcia, when I was in Italy several months ago for the Brunello di Montalcino anteprima to preview the 2014 vintage.

Col d'Orcia vineyards
image courtesy of Col d'Orcia

A picturesque Tuscan hilltop town located south of Siena, Montalcino is the birthplace of one of Italy’s most revered wines, Brunello di Montalcino. Should I ever leave my cozy Manhattan apartment for more spacious digs, rest assured that my wine cellar would be well stocked with Brunello di Montalcino. Crafted from Sangiovese, which is known locally as Brunello, Brunello di Montalcino is an incredibly expressive and delicious red wine that ages beautifully.

At a dinner hosted by Cinzano at his country home on the Col d’Orcia estate, I experienced first-hand Brunello di Montalcino’s impressive longevity when he surprised us with bottles of rare vintages from 1969 and 1979.

Artful winemaking and the natural acidity of the Sangiovese grapes imbue Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino with a natural freshness that endures for decades. Located on a hill overlooking the Orcia river that inspired its name, Col d’Orcia is the largest certified organic estate in Tuscany and they have designated themselves “an organic island in Montalcino”.  

But you don’t have to wait decades or travel to Montalcino to enjoy these gorgeous wines. Take your palate on a elegant Tuscan journey with Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2014 ($59). 

Aged three years in oak and another year in the bottle, it is a classic expression of Brunello – complex and full but beautifully balanced. By Brunello standards, 2014 is still considered a young wine so if your budget permits, buy one to enjoy now and tuck a few away to revisit over the years to experience the evolution of the wine. 

I also recommend Col d’Orcia Rosso di Montalcino 2016 ($29). Aged for 12 months in Slavonian oak casks, it is a younger and fresher expression of Sangiovese with charming fruit flavors and a kiss of spice.

 

One Cool Countess: The Wonderful Wine Life of Beatrice Contini Bonacossi

image courtesy of Capezzana

Should I ever become a countess, Beatrice Contini Bonacossi has provided the perfect blue print for living life as nobility. First, there's no need to flaunt your title around -- Beatrice simply introduces herself as Bea. Second, use your privilige to bring beauty to the world -- Bea accomplishes this goal in her role as proprietor and ambassador for her family's iconic winery, Capezzana. Third, never lose your sense of wonder -- "It is a beautiful job because you never stop learning," said Bea when I met with her recently in New York City. 

Capezzana may be located in Italy's smallest appellation, Carmignano, but it has a very rich history. Tuscany's oldest wine producing estate, winemaking at Capezzana can be traced back to the year 804! The former estate of the influential Medici family, the vineyards of Capezzana were home to Italy's very first plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon. Motivated by her love of wine and/or her husband, Catherine de' Medici had Cabernet Sauvignon imported to Capezzana when she married King Henry of France in the 16th century. The Contini Bonacossi family has owned this historic estate since 1920 and Bea's sister Benedetta has been Capezzana's winemaker since 1990. 

image courtesy of Capezzana

Carmignano may not be a household name but the wines produced in this historic Tuscan region speak volumes. Not only is Chianti their famous neighbor, both regions were formally recognized as winemaking regions in 1716 and are bound by their affinity for wines produced from Tuscany's most iconic grape, Sangiovese. Capezzana is not only a big player in the region because of their significant contributions to its winemaking legacy but also because they account for more than half of the region's entire production of Carmignano DOCG wines. They are also the first certified organic commercial winery in Carmignano. 

Capezzana crafts wines that beautifully express their unique terroir. "In the same vineyard, we can have three to four different types of soil. We have microclimates within microclimates," said Bea. This diversity of soil types and microclimates produce grapes with a range of flavor profiles. Capezzana also ferments their grapes with their native yeasts, believing that the resulting wines will have a more authentic taste of their territory. 


Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC 2016 ($17) is an excellent introduction to Capezzana. An enticing blend of Sangiovese (70%) with Cabernet Sauvignon (15%), Canaiolo (10%), and Cabernet Franc (5%); it has juicy and vibrant flavors of blackberry and dark cherry. Luscious and rich but quite fresh, this is a versatile food pairing wine that works with everything from pasta to pork. 


A blend of Sangiovese (80%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), Villa di Capezzana DOCG 2015 ($27) is an elegant expression of power and grace. A more complex red wine, it balances rich red and black fruit flavors with savory tinges of herbs, coffee, and licorice. A great wine for pairing with red meat, it would also work brilliantly with roast chicken or duck. 

Bold Trefiano Riserva DOCG 2015 ($55) gets better with every sip. A blend of Sangiovese (80%) Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), and Canaiolo (10%), it evolves elegantly in the glass; don't rush the experience. Across the board, Capezzana's wines have an uplifting acidity that adds a gracefulness to a wine as opulent as Trefiano. 2015 was an exceptional vintage in Italy and the excellent character of the grapes shines through in Trefiano. A voluptuous wine, Trefiano is a tasty tapestry of intense fruit, spice, and herbal flavors. The 2013 Trefiano is also quite exceptional. 

Ghiaie della Furba 2012 ($60) contains not one drop of Sangiovese but it is an indisputably Tuscan expression of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Syrah (30%), and Merlot (20%). Supple but not flabby, rich flavors of ripe black cherry and plum are heightened by an exciting kick of spice. 

Bea chuckled as she described Vin Santo as her winemaker sister Benedetta's "favorite child". Capezzana Vin Santo Riserva DOC 2011($55) is a wonderful expression of Tuscany's celebrated dessert wine. A blend of Trebbiano (90%) and San Colombano (10%) grapes that were dried before pressing, the wine was aged in small casks for five years. Also described as a "meditation wine", the beauty of this Vin Santo is that its sweetness is balanced by lively acidity so that it isn't cloying. 

If you're planning a trip to Tuscany, Capezzana welcomes visitors. In addition to wine tours and tastings, guests can learn Tuscan culinary traditions at their cooking school, dine at the Vinsantaia restaurant, and sleep sweet dreams during an overnight stay. And don't leave Capezzana without picking up a bottle of their excellent organic extra virgin olive oil! 

Rosé Spotlight: Il Poggione Brancato Rosato 2018

If you're a fan of Brunello di Montalcino, Il Poggione is a familiar and respected name. Brunello is widely considered one of Italy's most iconic wines and Il Poggione holds a prestigious position as one of the original three producers of this elegant Tuscan red. Yes, Brunello is a serious wine and Il Poggione brings that same level of precise and authentic winemaking to their fantastic rosè, Il Poggione Brancato Rosato 2018 ($20).

I tasted Brancato for the first time two years ago when I interviewed Il Poggione winemaker Alessandro Bindocci. I still chuckle when I remember Alessandro describing rosé as "fruit juice for grown-ups!" Even a serious winemaker like Alessandro recognizes that there is something inherently playful about rosé. Crisp and fresh, Brancato 2018 Rosato is crafted from 100% Sangiovese from young vines. A captivating shade of salmon with tinges of amber, this is no wimpy rosé. Brancato is round and full with balanced flavors of red cherry, orange zest, and ginger. A refreshing apéritif, Brancato is also a great match with seafood, vegetables, and soft cheeses. 

This is a sponsored post but I am a true fan of this wine and all opinions are my own! 

 

The Bon Vivant of Ruffino: Beppe d'Andrea Shares Tuscany's Wines and Lifestyle with the World

Beppe in the Big Apple! What a great afternoon of wines and conversation at Upland restaurant with Beppe d'Andrea of Ruffino winery during his whirlwind visit to NYC. 

Beppe d'Andrea is living the dream. As the Global Brand Ambassador for Ruffino winery, Beppe jet sets around the world sharing the infinite charms of "La Vita Ruffino", their mantra for the fine Italian art of good living. For quite some time, I've been happily following Beppe's adventures on social media and I finally had the opportunity to share some wine and conversation with this tireless Tuscan. Charming, energetic, knowledgable, and down-to-earth, Beppe has been with Ruffino for 32 years and represents everything a brand ambassador should be. 

One of the most familiar names in the world of Italian wine, Ruffino was founded in 1877 by cousins Ilario and Leopoldo Ruffino in Tuscany. The very first Chianti exported to the United States, Ruffino is a staple at any well-stocked wine shop. Ruffino's portfolio showcases some of Tuscany's most celebrated wines, including Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, and those captivating blends known as Super Tuscans. "The quality of the wine is not just the juice in the bottle," said Beppe. He further explained that for Ruffino winemaking is about "respect, tradition, and love." Those ideals are manifested in actions such as Ruffino actively taking strides towards 100% organic production. 

image courtesy of Il Relais Ruffino

Explaining that Ruffino's "goal is not to make just good wine but a good life style," Beppe shared news of their very first hotel property, Il Relais Ruffino. Designed to fully immerse guests in La Vita Ruffino, the luxuriously appointed 7-room inn is surrounded by olive trees and vineyards in the heart of Chianti Classico. Located just 20 minutes from Florence at Ruffino's Poggio Casciano estate, the property includes a dramatic infinity swimming pool facing a hillside vineyard where you can sip and lounge the day away. Other activities include wine tastings, vineyard tours, and meals at Locanda Ruffino. 

image courtesy of Il Relais Ruffino

A stay at Il Relais Ruffino has been added to my travel wish list. And if any of my friends are reading this, let's plan to rent out the property for a truly elegant and relaxing Tuscan getaway. If we're lucky, maybe Beppe will be there to greet us! 

Of course, Ruffino's wines make it possible to experience a taste of La Vita Ruffino no matter where you are. 

2015 Ruffino Tenuta Santedame Chianti Classico DOCG ($20) is mostly Sangiovese (80%) blended with Merlot, Colorino, Cabernet, and Canaiolo. 2015 was an exceptional vintage throughout Tuscany and this Chianti Classico is beautifully balanced and full of vitality. Fresh, juicy, and velvety flavors of plum, blackberry, and a hint of savory balsamic. 


A blend of Sangiovese (34%), Cabernet Sauvignon (33%), and Merlot (33%), 2015 Ruffino Modus Toscana IGT ($25) is plush and robust with silky tannins. Aged in French oak for 12 months, subtle hints of spice beautifully accent luscious fruit flavors and hints of herbs. 

Produced only in the very best vintages, only 5,000 bottles of 2015 Ruffino Alauda IGT Toscana ($100) were made. A voluptuous yet graceful blend of Cabernet Franc (40%), Merlot (35%), and Colorino (25%), Alauda shows the magic that can happen when the blessing of an exceptional vintage is married to intuitive yet precise winemaking. With rich berry and plum flavors and hints of chocolate, espresso, and earth, Alauda is superb now and will age exquisitely. 

2013 Ruffino Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG ($80) is a fine example of a classic Brunello. Rich but not overbearing, this elegant expression of 100% Sangiovese Grosso dazzles with intense red fruit flavors and sultry hints of chocolate and earth.

Visit the Ruffino website to learn more about Ruffino's wines, history, and details on arranging a visit. 

A Special Tuscan Sip: Vernaccia di San Gimignano Needs to Be in Your Wine Glass!

Has Tuscany been keeping a secret from us? One of Italy's most visited and beloved regions, Tuscany has been so generous in sharing their iconic red wines, like Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, with the world. But have they been keeping the charming white wine Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG for themselves? 

image courtesy of Vernaccia di San Gimignano wine consortium

I'm happy to report that on my recent visit to San Gimignano that I met many producers who were eager to share their wines and implored me to spread the word. Located between Siena and Florence, San Gimignano is a stunning medieval era walled city that is renowned for its soaring towers that were built by powerful families to communicate their wealth and influence. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, San Gimignano's architecture and rich history make it a must-visit. And sipping the delightful local wine, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, is an essential and enjoyable part of the experience. 

mage courtesy of Vernaccia di San Gimignano wine consortium

What is Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG? According to the Vernaccia di San Gimignano Wine Consortium, the wine's history can be traced back to the 13th century and was consumed by high society, including kings, popes, and wealthy merchants. The wine achieved DOCG status in 1993, the top level of quality in the Italian wine classification system.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano is described by the Consortium as a "pale straw yellow coloured wine with golden highlights that become more evident with age. The perfume is fine and delicate, with fruity and floral scents when the wine is young. As it matures and ages, it develops the characteristic mineral scent of flint. It is a dry, harmonious and savoury flavoured wine. While pleasant when young, it often surprises with its capacity for ageing, developing sensorial notes in the nose and mouth that are complex and mineral." Production regulations require that Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG must contain at least 85% of the grape and up to 15% of other non-aromatic white grapes are allowed. 

During my visit, I had the pleasure of sampling a large selection of Vernaccia di San Gimignano and was incredibly impressed by their quality and the diversity of styles. Crisp and fruity with great minerality and a tinge of salinity, Vernaccia di San Gimignano is a really expressive and food-friendly wine with tremendous personality. But it also has the capacity to age beautifully and the older vintages displayed impressive texture and nuance. I was also impressed by the warm and generous personalities of the producers. Coincidentally, three of the most intriguing wines that I tasted were produced by wineries with women in leadership roles as winemakers and/or owners.  

Elegant and energetic Barbara Bernardi, of Borgo Tollena Wine Resort in San Gimignano, was one of the most memorable people that I met during my visit. She and her charming husband Lorenzo are the proprietors of an exquisite farm and winery with luxurious accommodations for guests. They also own a shop in the center of town that sells wines and other local delicacies. 

I fell in love with their Tollena "Signorina Vittoria" Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva 2015 ($28). Named after their daughter, Signorina Vittoria is a sophisticated expression of Vernaccia. 9 months on the lees imbues it with a touch of creaminess that melds beautifully with crisp citrus and slightly salty flavors. It is a rich but graceful vino that eloquently expresses the varietal's capacity for aging. Their wines have limited distribution in the USA but that will be changing soon! 

While tasting wines in San Gimignano, there was a name that I kept hearing over and over: Elisabetta Fagiuoli. The owner of Montenidoli since 1965, Elisabetta is respected for her strength of character and excellent wines. I did not have a chance to meet Elisabetta while I was in Italy, so I was thrilled when the stars aligned for us to meet when she was in New York City. Charismatic and vivacious, Elisabetta is not a person you forget. And her wines make an equally lasting impression.

Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Tradizionale 2017 ($21.99) is an excellent introduction to a classic style of Vernaccia. Lively and crisp with pure and vibrant fruit, this is no boring white wine. 

Winemaker Sandra Mora of Poderi Arcangelo makes superb organic Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG. I was so impressed by the precision and purity of her wine. Refreshing and balanced, it is available for around $15 a bottle.

Are you ready to give Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG a swirl? This Tuscan treasure really is the perfect wine for sunny spring and summer days. 

Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico: Intriguing New Wines from the Iconic Frescobaldi Family

When your family has been making wine for 700 years, no one would fault you for sticking to the tried and true wines that have earned you endless accolades. But that's not the Frescobaldi way. True icons of Tuscan culture, the Frescobaldi family has an exemplary commitment to crafting wines  that are authentic expressions of the terroir of their seven estates. There's no shortage of beautiful Italian wines but even the most jaded drinker gets a bit giddy when they see the name Frescobaldi on the bottle. 

"Great wine is about the site. That is the step from where you can start for the highest level." - Marchese Lamberto Frescobaldi
(If you have sharp eyes, you'll notice that in this photo Marchese Lamberto Frescobaldi is holding a bottle of their award-winning Montesodi from their Castello Nipozzano estate. I ran into the Marchese at the Tre Bicchieri tasting and captured this image.)

I confess to a certain amount of professional giddiness when I was I invited to a luncheon in NYC  hosted by Marchese Lamberto Frescobaldi to taste the first vintage (2015) of their Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva. After leasing the property for a few years, Frescobaldi purchased Castello di San Donato in Perano in 2017. Located in the heart of Chianti Classico, Tenuta Perano is a natural amphitheater with ideal conditions for growing healthy and expressive grapes. 52 of the estate's 250 hectares are planted with vines. 

image courtesy of Frescobaldi

Not only did Frescobaldi select a prime site with the acquisition of Tenuta Perano, but how auspicious that 2015 was the first vintage released. The Marchesi shares the sentiment of many Italian wine experts and aficionados when he declared that "2015 was a great vintage."

The Tenuta Perano wines are a great match with red meat dishes like this steak with roasted potatoes that we enjoyed at Il Gattopardo restaurant in NYC. 

Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico DOCG 2015 ($25) is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% complementary grapes. Aged for 24 months in barrique and steel, it doesn't sacrifice freshness for richness but instead shows elegant balance between the two. Flavors of dark cherry, brambly berries, with a subtle hint of eucalyptus, thyme and pink pepper make this vino a great match with meat sauces, red meat, and aged cheeses. 

Aged for 24 months in Slavonian oak barrels, Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG ($35) displays more complexity and nuance but is still quite approachable. 95% Sangiovese with a kiss of Merlot, it is robust yet graceful with more noticeable but well-integrated tannins. Delicious now, its flavors of rich cherry, blackberry and plum with a touch of warm spice and earth will age beautifully. 

It is easy to feel intimidated by wines as renowned as Frescobaldi's so I applaud them for making their Tenuta Perano wines so accessibly priced. Their superb quality truly over-delivers at this price point. A sip of Frescobaldi is a tangible connection with Tuscan history and culture. And that is truly priceless. 

 

Tuscany's Gold Knight Ventures Beyond the Castle Walls: Cavaliere d'Oro Wines Showcase Four Italian Regions

"We make wine where the wine in the glass speaks about the terroir where it grows."
Federico Cerelli, Chief Winemaker, Cavaliere d'Oro

Imagine a grown-up fairy tale where a dashing knight clad in a golden suit of armor, gallops up to you on a glorious steed and whisks you away to a medieval Tuscan castle where each glass of wine is more wonderful than the last. Sounds like heaven! Well, my daydream essentially came true on a recent visit to Castello di Gabbiano for a celebration of their new collection of Cavaliere d'Oro wines. No, I did not get swept away on a horse, but my palate embarked on an exciting wine tasting adventure through Tuscany and beyond!


Located in the heart of the Chianti Classico region, Castello di Gabbiano's rich winemaking legacy can be traced back to 1480. Legend has it that during the Middle Ages a Gold Knight protected this majestic castle and vineyards. Inspired by this fearless knight, Cavaliere d'Oro wines pay homage to this glorious history but represent the start of a bold new chapter. Cavaliere d'Oro has Tuscan roots but valiantly explores other winemaking regions: Puglia, Sicily, and Veneto. The collection currently consists of 13 wines from these 4 regions and range in price from $10-$40. 


Born in Tuscany, the juice of the Sangiovese grape runs in winemaker Federico Cerelli's veins. At home, there was always a bottle of Sangiovese on the table. Federico's favorite childhood snack, prepared by his grandmother, was a piece of bread moistened with wine and topped with a sprinkle of sugar. His grandfather had a hectare of vineyards and as a little boy Federico loved helping him. It seems that Federico was destined to be a winemaker. Since 2011, he has been Chief Winemaker at Castello di Gabbiano and the new Cavaliere d'Oro project combines Federico's Tuscan expertise with his experience and curiosity about other Italian winemaking regions. 

Chianti 2017 DOCG ($10), Chianti Classico 2016 DOCG ($14), Chianti Classico Riserva 2016 DOCG ($22), Bellezza Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2016 DOCG ($40)



The Cavaliere d'Oro collection contains four Sangiovese based wines but each is completely different. Federico touts "the flexibility that Sangiovese has to adapt to the terroir" as a key factor in this range of expression. The grape adapts and reflects the characteristics of the soil and micro-climates. From easygoing and fresh, to complex and sultry; there is a Cavaliere d'Oro wine for every moment, meal, and budget.  


The single-vineyard Bellezza Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2016 DOCG ($40) is an excellent example of Sangiovese's ability to transmit terroir. Bellezza means beauty and this superb wine lives up to the name. 

The Bellezza vineyard is a rocky hillside plot and the wine's rich fruit flavors are balanced by a pleasing flinty minerality and touch of earth. Silky with soft tannins and gorgeous flavors of black cherry and raspberry, with a tinge of orange peel and cedar; Bellezza has great freshness and acidity. Delicious now, Bellezza's balanced structure indicates that it will age gracefully. 

The Tuscan wines also include two blends. Cavaliere d'Oro Toscana 2016 IGT ($17) is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese; it has charming flavors of juicy wild berries and a touch of violets. 

Alleanza Toscana 2016 IGT ($35) is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with seductive flavors of black cherry with touches of anise, toasted oak, and sweet spice. 



Heading south, the Gold Knight explores Sicily and Puglia. Terre Siciliane Rosso 2017 IGT ($17) blends Sicily's iconic Nero d'Avola with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. 20% of the hand-picked Nero d'Avola and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were air-dried and then vinified. The non-dried grapes were fermented separately. This is quite a complex and nuanced wine at a very accessible price point. Rich but not unwieldy, its bold fruit flavors and hints of spice are impressively harmonious. 


100% Primitivo, the Gold Knight delivers a vibrant and bold expression of Puglia's native grape. Primitivo Puglia 2017 IGT ($17) is velvety and lush with flavors of ripe cherries and plum with hints of cocoa and vanilla. 

Lest you think the Gold Knight has pledged exclusive fealty to red wines, Cavaliere d'Oro also has a selection of refreshing white wines that are focused on Pinot Grigio and Prosecco. 



Think all Pinot Grigio wines are the same? Cavaliere d'Oro presents three very different expressions of Italy's most famous white wine. Gabbiano Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie DOC 2017 and Pinot Grigio Valdadige DOC 2017 both blend Pinot Grigio with a bit of Chardonnay: Gabbiano has vibrant flavors of fresh green apple, citrus, and tropical fruit, whereas the Valdadige has more pronounced minerality. The Campanile Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie DOC 2017 is 100% Pinot Grigio and has a hint of salinity and tropical fruit. Around $10 each. 

And even the Gold Knight can't resist a flirty glass of sparkling wine. Lively and festive with delicate bubbles, Cavaliere d'Oro Prosecco ($14) is 100% Glera from the Veneto region. They also produce a Prosecco that is available exclusively at restaurants. 

Winemaker Federico Cerelli explains the nuances of the Cavaliere d'Oro wines. 

 "Every region in Italy is a different culture, a different philosophy," said Federico. 4 regions, 13 wines; Cavaliere d'Oro is an ambitious project. When asked what links these wines from Tuscany, Puglia, Sicily, and Veneto together, Federico adamantly stated, "All the wines must be at their top level of quality. Drinkability. Elegance." This philosophy, paired with a strong foundation and Federico's precise and artistic approach to winemaking, Cavaliere d'Oro is poised to win over wine lovers. 


Outside of the museums, knights in shining armor are a rarity in Manhattan so it was an absolute delight to step back in time during my visit and stay at Castello di Gabbiano. Pick up a few bottles of Cavaliere d'Oro wine and start planning your own magical Tuscan getaway. Spacious rooms and apartments are available for rent at the castle. The property also has a fantastic restaurant, appropriately named Il Cavaliere, that serves authentic and fresh Tuscan cuisine. Live and drink life like it's golden! 

Brunello for Breakfast: A Far from Traditional Wine Tasting with Tancredi Biondi-Santi

Even in Manhattan, where people pretend not to notice anything, with his impressive stature and perfectly tailored suit, Tancredi Biondi-Santi draws attention when he enters the room. Of course, people were also staring because it was only ten in the morning and our breakfast table was covered with bottles of wine! But not just any wine, Brunello di Montalcino. And not just any Brunello di Montalcino, but the legendary wines of Biondi-Santi. It isn't an exaggeration to say that without Tancredi's ancestors, Brunello di Montalcino might not exist. 

Clemente Santi is considered the founding father of Brunello di Montalcino and Tancredi proudly represents the seventh generation of this winemaking dynasty. In 1869, Clemente Santi's 1865 vintage was awarded a silver medal by the Agrarian Committee of Montepulciano and marks the first recorded mention of Brunello. This trailblazing vino went on to receive prestigious accolades abroad, including in France. According to the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium, "Brunello di Montalcino traces its roots to the 19th century when local farmers began experimenting with a native grape variety cultivated in the surrounding territory. This grape, known as "Brunello" or “Brunellino”, was identified as a variety of Sangiovese. The delectable wine produced from this fruit can be aged for years, richly enhancing its value." In 1980, Brunello di Montalcino was the first wine to receive the prestigious DOCG (Denomination of Origin Controlled and Guaranteed) designation, which represents the highest level of quality for Italian wines. Montalcino, a tiny hilltop town in the heart of Tuscany, is small but mighty in the world of wine.

Many people might be overwhelmed by such a formidable legacy but Tancredi embraces it with grace and humility. Tancredi travels the globe sharing the beauty of Tenuta Greppo Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino and is an in-demand expert not just on his family's wines but the region. Universally acclaimed as one of Italy's finest wines, Brunello di Montalcino is renowned for its elegance, complexity, and longevity. I was delighted at Tancredi's willingness to share his exceptional wines over a casual meal. These wines are so exquisite nothing can diminish their light, indeed they cast a glow over every meal and moment.

With such a storied history, Biondi-Santi is synonymous with tradition but they aren't afraid of respectful innovation. Clearly winemaking has evolved since the 19th century but Tancredi believes that "Technology should not influence the style of the wine. Technology must respect the style of the wine." With that credo, the Biondi-Santi style remains a true reflection of their terroir and tradition. "We innovate as much as we can but maintain our style," said Tancredi. This devotion to tradition isn't just a manifestation of loyalty to the founders but a wise winemaking decision that presents Brunello di Montalcino in the way it was intended to be -- an authentic expression of the terroir and the Sangiovese Grosso grape. For Biondi-Santi, that Sangiovese Grosso grape is specifically their BBS11 clone (Brunello Biondi Santi 11 Clone) which was officially identified in 1970. 

 

Aged 36 months in Slavonian oak, followed by another year of aging in the bottle, Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino 2012 DOCG ($209) is a young wine by Brunello standards; it has the capacity to age another 70-80 years! Nonetheless, I was impressed at the wine's approachability and harmony at this toddler stage of its development. The tannins are firm but not aggressive and the fruit is intense yet graceful. A subtle touch of spice accentuates the wine's freshness and red fruit flavors. This wine was clearly made with passion and precision. 

Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2011 DOCG ($566) is clearly not a casual purchase. But if you want to experience a wine that eloquently expresses the majesty of Brunello di Montalcino, this wine is nearly perfect. I say nearly because while it is stunningly beautiful at this moment, it will reveal its true character over time. It has enough structure to age 70-80 years but displays an appealing vibrancy and nuance that make it an unforgettable wine at this moment. Perhaps Tancredi's father, Jacopo Biondi-Santi says it best, "Set apart by its extreme elegance this bottling gives off a beautiful impression of fruit. The very dry climate has given Brunello Riserva 2011 a rare readiness and drinkability without altering its intensity and longevity potential." Riserva 2011 was aged 36 months in Slavonian oak, followed by 2 years in bottle. 


To experience a bit of the Biondi-Santi mystique at a more accessible price point, their Rosso di Montalcino 2015 ($115) is a charmer. Fresher and flirtier but still elegant, it was aged 12 months in Slavonian oak and has the capacity to age 15-20 years. 

I recognize that the wines of Biondi-Santi are an investment but if you are ever offered a glass, please say yes and savor every sip. Biondi-Santi's wines are to be treasured not only because of their historical significance but they represent a level of winemaking that is to be admired for its authenticity of expression. And if you want to have the fanciest breakfast ever, take a tip from Tancredi and start your day off in grand fashion with Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino. 

Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino for breakfast? Don't mind if I do! It was such an unforgettable treat to taste these very special wines with Tancredi Biondi-Santi. 

The Secret's in the Slopes: Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino

image courtesy of Val di Suga

Speak with winemakers and you'll notice a common refrain is repeated around the globe -- great wine starts in the vineyards. Few would dispute that the tiny, yet majestic, hilltop town of Montalcino in Tuscany is home to some of the finest vineyards in the world. And from those prized vines, Sangiovese Grosso grapes provide the foundation for one of Italy's most acclaimed wines - Brunello di Montalcino. But no two vineyards in Montalcino are the same and in a land of phenomenal wines, Val di Suga has a unique advantage: they are the only producer to own vineyards on the three slopes best suited to producing top quality Brunello. 

image courtesy of Val di Suga

Like many important things in life, it is the minutiae of location that really matters when we talk about vineyards. Factors such as elevation, soil types, and proximity to water all impact the flavor profile and quality of the grapes. With vineyards on three different slopes, with three different soil types, and three different exposures; Val di Suga has the ability to produce three entirely unique styles of Brunello that authentically reflect their terroir and microclimates. 


Stefano Mangiarotti, sales director for Bertani Domains says that Val di Suga's three single vineyards with three different terroirs enables them to "present Montalcino like no one else."

I recently had the opportunity to taste through Val di Suga's various expressions of Brunello di Montalcino with Stefano Mangiarotti, sales director of Bertani Domains (Val di Suga is part of their impressive portfolio.) If only my college geology class had included wine tasting, I would have been much more interested in soil types. And for anyone that thinks talk of terroir and minerality are nonsense, Val di Suga's wines are solid proof that wines can express a sense of place when their essence is respected in the winemaking process. 


Val di Suga 'Vigna del Lago' Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 ($98) is produced from Sangiovese grapes grown in clay soil near Val di Suga's lakeside vineyard, Vigna del Lago, which is 886 feet above sea level and on the northern slope of Montalcino. The fresh and lithe quality of Vigna del Lago hints at the influence of its proximity to water. Not overly extracted, it is soft with slightly chewy tannins and a touch of chalky minerality mid-palate. 


The Sangiovese Grosso grapes for Val di Suga 'Vigna Spuntali' Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 ($109) hail from the southwestern sea-facing slope -- the sunniest and driest of the three slopes. Historically, Vigna Spuntali has been known as the best area of the southwestern slope of Montalcino and the soils are a mix of sand and marine fossil debris. I found Vigna Spuntali a sexier and sultrier expression of Brunello with rich flavors of dark cherry, plums, dried figs, and blackberries. 


Stefano aptly describes Val di Suga 'Poggio al Granchio' Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 ($88) as a "macho and bigger Brunello with big shoulders." The area with the highest altitude vineyards on the Montalcino hill, Poggio al Granchio's rich galestro (marl) soils are particularly conducive to growing expressive Sangiovese Grosso grapes. Poggio al Granchio is an especially terroir-driven Brunello with evocative flavors of black cherry, clove, licorice, red currants, and a tangible earthiness. 


Apart from the slope-specific Brunello wines, Val di Suga also produces wines that combine Sangiovese Grosso grapes from all three vineyards. Their Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2016 ($25) is an especially charming and lovely introduction to the Val di Suga style. Fresh and vivacious without sacrificing elegance and structure, this young red has soft cherry flavors with a tinge of white pepper bite.


Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 ($67) also blends grapes from all three vineyards and its nuanced red fruit flavors are enhanced by hints of tea leaves and mountain herbs. 

image courtesy of Val di Suga

The expressive and authentic nature of Val di Suga should not have surprised me -- it is the trademark style of exceptionally talented winemaker Andrea Lonardi, technical director of Bertani Domains. Lonardi is endearingly obsessed with creating wines that are honest expressions of their origins. Whether you are a Brunello afficionado or just starting to explore these regal Tuscan wines, Val di Suga will captivate you. And if your travels take you to Montalcino, Val di Suga offers tours and tastings. I can't wait to visit one day. 

The Terroir Talks in the Tuscan Wines of Tenuta di Ghizzano

 

Countess Ginevra Venerosi-Pesciolini represents the 26th generation of her illustrious Tuscan family to lead Tenuta di Ghizzano.

Ginevra Venerosi-Pesciolini doesn't need to introduce herself as a Countess to impress you. In fact, it wasn't until days after our meeting that I realized that the very cool lady that I had spent two hours wining, dining, and laughing with was in possession of a noble title and a family tree that includes Tuscan royalty, poets, and more than one palazzo. Ginevra's humility is certainly endearing and her wines don't need pomp and circumstance to get your attention because as she proudly proclaims, "my wines have a soul."

image courtesy of Tenuta di Ghizzano

The family's estate, Tenuta di Ghizzano, is located in the Colline Pisane (Pisan Hills) south of Pisa near the Mediterranean Coast, and has been in the family since the 1300's. Such a long history might make others demur to tradition but Ginevra has not been afraid to innovate since taking over as the winery's director in 1996. Ginevra's first radical decision was to introduce organic and sustainable practices. In 2003, she went even further by launching their conversion to biodynamic winemaking -- in Europe they have earned rigorous certifications, including DEMETER Biodynamic Certified and in the US, Tenuta di Ghizzano wines are certified as made with organic grapes.

image courtesy of Tenuta di Ghizzano

"I like to consider myself a 'natural winemaker'. In other words, I try to allow my wines to express their terroir as purely and as honestly as possible," says Ginevra. Not only does she eschew herbicides and other chemicals, Ginevra exclusively uses native yeasts to stimulate fermentation and minimally filters her wines.   

Too often we speak of Tuscan wines as a monolith but there is tremendous diversity in this beautiful region of central Italy. Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino may be Tuscany's most famous appellations but the region is home to a multitude of officially defined winemaking regions; including the Terre de Pisa DOC and Costa Toscana IGT where Tenuta di Ghizzano produces their wines. 


Il Ghizzano Bianco 2017, Costa Toscana IGT ($19.99) is a charming introduction to the Tenuta di Ghizzano style. A blend of Vermentino (50%), Trebbiano (30%), and Malvasia Bianca (20%); the coastal influence of the soft sea breezes is apparent in this refreshing and crisp white wine. Easygoing and fruit-forward but nicely textured with a hint of salinity and a touch of minerality from the fossil-rich soils that were once covered by the sea. Organic Certified, Biodynamic, Vegan


Il Ghizzano Rosso 2016, Costa Toscana IGT ($19.99) strikes that perfect balance between pretty and earthy. Mostly Sangiovese (95%) with a kiss of Merlot (5%), it has vibrant & fresh flavors of dark cherry and hibiscus with a mellow earthy thread that softly envelops the palate. Ginevra said that their estate's Sangiovese grapes are less acidic, less tannic, and a bit sweeter than those found in some other regions of Tuscany because of the soil and proximity to the sea. Organic Certified, Biodynamic, Vegan


Veneroso 2014, Terre de Pisa DOC ($29.99) is Tenuta di Ghizzano's flagship wine and was first produced in 1985. A blend of mostly Sangiovese (70%) with a good amount of Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), the grapes were selected from the estate's oldest vineyards. Bold but not unwieldy, the more delicate flavors of the Sangiovese meld harmoniously with the more muscular Cabernet Sauvignon. Lush and rich without sacrificing freshness, Veneroso has an impressively long finish. Organic Certified, Biodynamic, Vegan


Family is at the heart of Tenuta di Ghizzano and in 1996 Ginevra created and named Nambrot to honor the founder of the Venerosi family, who lived in 830 AD. Ginevra believes that a wine's personality is "70% territory and 30% the grape variety." What better way to prove that point than by creating a blend of non-indigenous varieties that will display their core traits in a unique manner that expresses the terroir where they were grown? Nambrot 2015, Costa Toscana IGT ($39.99) blends Merlot (60%), Cabernet Franc (20%) and Petit Verdot (20%) to create a rich and concentrated wine with bold flavors of blackberries, cassis, and red fruits. Aged around 18 months in French oak casks, Nambrot's powerful fruit flavors are enhanced by a hint of warm spice and a sultry savoriness. The grapes are global but the wine is absolutely Tenuta di Ghizzano. Organic Certified, Biodynamic, Vegan

image courtesy of Tenuta di Ghizzano

I admire Ginevra's commitment to her family's legacy and to crafting honest wines that aren't over-manipulated. Tenuta di Ghizzano wines are delightfully drinkable but remain true to their origins and don't attempt to mimic a cookie-cutter style. The wines are widely available and if you're planning a visit to Tuscany, Tenuta di Ghizzano welcomes visitors for tours and tastings. And if you really want to immerse yourself in their rustic yet elegant Tuscan lifestyle, accommodations are available at four renovated farmhouses on the estate. I've certainly added it to my wine travel wish list! 

Wine Makes a Family: The Enduring Legacy of Ruffino

 

"We don't just want to share the calm side of Tuscany, we want to share the adrenaline, the competition of the harvest, the emotion." - Gabriele Tacconi, Chief Winemaker, Ruffino

Italy is renowned for its legendary winemaking families that span generations and centuries. But it isn't just shared DNA that defines a family, familial bonds are also built by a mutual commitment and passion for a common cause. So I don't doubt Ruffino winemaker Gabriele Tacconi's sincerity when he strongly proclaims "We are proud. We are the family." The we that Gabriele speaks of, the winemaking team at Ruffino, may not have Ruffino in their genetic bloodline but they are united in their devotion to its legacy and future. “The Ruffino style is steeped in tradition, elegance, and drinkability, and has been developed over time. It’s a style that my team and I treat with great respect."

Founded in 1877 in Tuscany by cousins Ilario and Leopoldo Ruffino, the winery has survived and thrived for more than 140 years. The very first Chianti wine exported to the United States, Ruffino has won countless awards and acclaim -- in the early 19th century they were even selected as the official supplier of the Italian royal court. But we're living in the 21st century. How do Ruffino's wines fit into the lives of today's wine lovers around the globe?


image courtesy of Ruffino

Over lunch at Union Square Cafe in Manhattan, Gabriele shared his reverence for Ruffino's storied past. But this motorcycle-loving modern man from Modena is all about making wines that speak to how we live, dine, and entertain today. Elegant but not pretentious, complex but not arrogant, Gabriele and the wines he makes for Ruffino are authentic and intriguing. "It is the passion, not perfection that brings people to wine," said Gabriele.


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2014 ($40.99)
Gran Selezione is an exclusive and relatively new category that represents an elite selection of wines at the very top of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid. A blend of high quality Sangiovese, Merlot, and Colorino grapes from several Ruffino estates in the heart of Castellina in Chianti, Riserva Ducale Oro is meticulously aged for 36 months. Translating to "Reserved for the Duke," Riserva Ducale is named after the Duke of Aosta -- he appointed Ruffino as the royal court's official wine supplier in 1890. I think the Duke would approve of this elegant and expressive wine and its precise but passionate fruit, herb, and earth flavors. Bold and beautifully structured with well-integrated tannins and lively acidity, this wine has what it takes to age gracefully. 


Ruffino Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 ($80)
Beyond Chianti Classico, Ruffino also produces another of Italy's most revered wines, Brunello di Montalcino, at their Greppone Mazzi estate. A pure expression of place and grapes, it is crafted from 100% Sangiovese Grosso, which is known as Brunello in the Montalcino region of Tuscany. Crafted from the finest grapes in the vineyard, Greppone Mazzi was aged a total of 40 months. Complex and nuanced with impressive balance, Greppone Mazzi is rich but not overbearing. Luscious and deep red fruit flavors are bolstered by warm hints of chocolate and earth. A sophisticated sip meant to stand the test of time. 



Ruffino Modus 2015 ($24.99)
 Modus elegantly blends Tuscany's signature Sangiovese with the international varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Plush and plummy with silky tannins, this superb Super Tuscan was aged in French oak for 12 months. Subtle hints of vanilla beautifully accent the luscious fruit flavors and hints of herbs. 



Ruffino Alauda 2015 ($99)
Only produced in exceptional vintages, Alauda blends international favorites Cabernet Franc and Merlot with the Tuscan variety Colorino. All of the grapes are sourced exclusively from Ruffino's finest vineyards at their acclaimed Montemasso and Poggio Casciano estates in the heart of Tuscany. These low-yield vines produce limited quantities of exceptional fruit. Aged a total of 22 months, Alauda is sultry and voluptuous with velvety tannins and impressive complexity and grace. Big ripe berry and plum flavors meld harmoniously with touches of dark chocolate and savory & sweet balsamic notes. Another Ruffino wine that will age extremely well for many years. 


image courtesy of Ruffino

I've only scratched the surface of Ruffino -- their extensive portfolio includes white, red, sparkling and rosé. From everyday drinking wines to more complex splurge-worthy vinos, La Vita Ruffino, the embodiment of the fine Italian art of good living, is accessible to everyone. And if your travels take you to Tuscany, you can get more fully immersed in La Vita Ruffino by booking a Ruffino tour and tasting. Winemaker Gabriele said, "My favorite wine is the one that brings something special to the bottle. It is a story of people and I want to bring us to the bottle." So the next time you see a bottle of Ruffino at a wine shop or restaurant, remember the story of Gabriele and the team that have bonded together to create a modern expression of a winemaking family. 

Beauty, Power, Brunello: Tenute Silvio Nardi Makes Meaningful Montalcino Wines

 

Emilia Nardi, the youngest daughter of the founder of Tenute Silvio Nardi, began managing the winery at the age of 30.

Emilia Nardi proves that authentic power isn't loud and flashy. Soft-spoken with a commanding presence, Emilia's charisma lies in her elegant demeanor. It's no wonder that Emilia is one of the most respected women in the wine world and a true leader in the prestigious realm of Brunello di Montalcino.

Continuing the family legacy that began when her father Silvio purchased the Casale del Bosco estate in 1950, Emilia has led Tenute Silvio Nardi since she was 30 years old and has put her executive MBA to impressive use by focusing on modernizing the estate and vineyard development. Her innovations have not gone unnoticed and in 2004 Emilia was recognized by Italy's Agricultural Ministry as a Female Agricultural Innovator. Emilia is the real deal.   


Casale del Bosco vineyard
image courtesy of Tenute Silvio Nardi

When an invitation arrived to meet Emilia and taste her family's acclaimed wines, I did not hesitate to say yes. One of Italy's most iconic wine regions, when Silvio Nardi arrived in 1950, Montalcino was not the global powerhouse that it is today. In fact, being from Umbria, Nardi was actually considered the first "foreigner" to invest in Montalcino. One of the founding members of the powerful Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, Nardi's intuition and investment paid off beautifully as shown by the worldwide esteem and craving for Brunello. 

Harvest at Tenute Silvio Nardi
image courtesy of Tenute Silvio Nardi

Brunello di Montalcino is produced from Tuscany's celebrated Sangiovese grape but this one grape expresses itself in infinite ways based on terroir and winemaking technique. Tenute Silvio Nardi has extensively invested in development and research to select the best Sangiovese clones. They also focus on creating terroir-driven wines from their estates. Truly a family affair, Emilia's nephew, Emanuele Nardi, has held the prestigious position of winemaker since 2008.


 
Tenute Silvio Nardi Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2016 ($29.99) is an affordable and elegant introduction to their wine style. Matured in oak casks for only six months, the wine retains impressive youth and freshness. Lovely flavors of fresh ripe cherry and pomegranate meld seamlessly with fine tannins and a hint of clove and pepper. Elegant but easygoing! 



Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012 ($64.99) blends the finest Sangiovese grapes from their Manachiara and Casale del Bosco estates. Aged for 12 months in French oak barriques, 18 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, and bottle aged at least 12 months before release; this wine goes on quite a journey. Of course, this extensive and elaborate aging process makes Brunello more intense than the younger Rosso but it still displays impressive freshness because of its lively acidity. Layered and complex, it has bold red and black berry flavors, hints of licorice, clove, and herbs. Round and velvety with great structure, this Brunello will age beautifully. When buying Brunello, Emilia recommends getting 3 bottles "1 for now, 1 to drink in 10 years, 1 to drink in 20 years."



Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino Manachiara DOCG 2012 ($114.99) is a single-vineyard superstar. The Manachiara estate was purchased in 1962 and the Manachiara vineyard has vines that are about 50 years old -- the estate's oldest. These mature vines produce grapes with impressive character and flavor and this Brunello conveys that beautifully. Rich and supple, it is an alluring melange of intense fruit with vibrant floral and spice notes with gripping minerality. This wine will grow even more captivating as time goes by. 


Do you still doubt the aging potential of a finely crafted Brunello di Montalcino? During our dinner, Emilia surprised us with some old vintages, including this impressive 1968! Even at 50 years old, it showed outstanding structure and nuance -- an excellent bellwether for younger vintages of Tenute Silvio Nardi wines. 

Mixed Case: 12 Wonderful Wines from Around the Globe

Which 12 different bottles of wine would you choose to create your own mixed case? I would definitely fill mine with a mix of sparkling, white, red and rosé; a few serious wines and some everyday easygoing sips. If you're looking for inspiration to create your own delicious dozen, keep reading for tasting notes on twelve winning wines that I recently sampled from Italy, France, Argentina, Germany, and the USA. Cheers!

Sparkling



DUBL di Feudi di San Gregorio Sparkling Falanghina Brut ($25)
Italy
A very unique sparkling wine that applies the traditional Champagne method to Falanghina, an iconic grape of Campania in the south of Italy. Elegant and exuberant with lively bubbles, DUBL is delightfully dry and crisp with balanced intensity. Superb!

Champagne Henriot Blanc de Blancs ($59)
France
A classic and captivating Champagne, Henriot Blanc de Blancs is an excellent expression of 100% Chardonnay. A bold but finely textured tapestry of crisp mineral, citrus, and brioche flavors. 

Sparkling Rosé



Le Marchesine Franciacorta Rosé Millesimato 2013 ($36)
Italy
The world of Italian sparkling wines extends beyond Prosecco and Franciacorta is one of the most elegant. Produced exclusively in the traditional Champagne method in the northern Italian territory of Franciacorta, Franciacorta was the first in Italy to receive DOCG status for sparkling wines - Italy's official top tier of quality for wines. A lovely blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Le Marchesine Franciacorta Rosé is a charming introduction to the category. A lovely pale shade of pink, it is precise and pretty with fine bubbles, fresh red berry flavors, and crisp texture. 

Rosé



M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Pays d'Oc Rosé 2017 ($15)
France
Season after season, this beauty from the south of France is one of my favorite rosé wines. A fresh and luscious blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault, it is fruit-forward, juicy, and vibrant with superb structure. Plenty of ooh la la at a great price! 

White



Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina 2017 ($22.99)
Italy
Feudi di San Gregorio has distinguished themselves as one of the premier wineries in Italy's Campania region and beyond. I've yet to have a Feudi di San Gregorio wine that wasn't impeccably crafted and authentically evocative of the region and its terroir. The proximity of their vineyards to Mount Vesuvius created mineral rich soils which imbue their wines with depth and texture. An ancient grape that thrives in Campania, Falanghina may not be a household name but the variety has broad appeal. Fresh but very textured with crisp minerality, the 2017 Falanghina vintage from Feudi di San Gregorio balances soft fruit with a mineral core. (Fun fact: Feudi di San Gregorio's labels were created by Italian designer Massimo Vignelli - designer of the NYC subway map and Bloomingdale's shopping bags!) 

Frescobaldi Massovivo Ammiraglia Vermentino 2016 ($18)
Italy
Fresh, subtle and elegant, this charming Vermentino from Tuscany's coastal Maremma region has plenty of Mediterranean flair. Lively flavors of honeysuckle, chamomile, and white nectarine are balanced by crisp minerality. 



Nik Weis Mosel Urban Riesling 2017 ($15)
Germany
Juicy, crisp, and refreshing, this rocking little Riesling from Germany's renowned Mosel Valley has plenty of personality. Fruity with a hint of sweetness that is balanced out by a tinge of chalky minerality.  



Chehalem INOX Unoaked Chardonnay 2016 ($20)
Oregon
Unoaked but full of flavor, this fresh and vibrant Chardonnay from Oregon's iconic Willamette Valley is a charmer. Very crisp, round, and graceful.  



Trivento White Orchid Reserve Torrontes 2017 ($11)
Argentina
White Orchid is the perfect name for this flirty and aromatic Torrontes from Argentina's famed Mendoza region. Floral and tropical, a kiss of Pinot Grigio adds crispness and nuance. 

Red



Feudi di San Gregorio Rubrato Aglianico 2015 ($19.99)
Italy
What a sultry, sexy, and savory vino! Aglianico is one of southern Italy's iconic wines and Feudi di San Gregorio's Rubrato is an impressive expression. Crafted from 100% Aglianico grapes from the Irpinia region of Campania, Rubrato is is bold and elegant. Rich berry flavors meld seamlessly with hints of savory herbs and spice. 

Concannon Vineyard Clone 7 Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 ($90)
California 
This is no run-of-the-mill Cabernet Sauvignon, Concannon Clone 7 pays tribute to Concannon’s important role in viticulture - their clones account for 80% of all California Cabernet Sauvignon vines. Bold and rich with dark fruit, spice, and earth flavors; Clone 7 is crafted from vineyards in the Chalk Hill AVA located in the northeast corner of the larger Russian River Valley AVA. 



Westwood Estate Pinot Noir 2015 ($44)
California
An impressive Pinot Noir from Sonoma with finesse and fully developed flavors of ripe red berries, brambly fruits, baking spices, and well-integrated dusty tannins. 

Captivated by Cecchi Wines: A True Taste of Tuscany

Andrea Cecchi - winemaker and quintessential Tuscan gentleman. 

"In Italy, wine is still a social activity,"said Andrea Cecchi with a smile. So on a Monday afternoon in Manhattan, while most of the city toiled, I felt no guilt as I was transported to Tuscany by the authenticity, elegance, and charm of Andrea and the superb wines of the Cecchi family. 

Truly a family business, Andrea and his brother Cesare represent the 4th generation of this winemaking legacy that started with their great-grandfather Luigi. Celebrating their 125th anniversary this year, Cecchi symbolizes tradition but also innovation and the brothers don't just coast on the excellent reputation of their Chianti Classico. Cecchi also makes an impressive selection of wines in other regions of Italy; including the Tuscan coastal region of Maremma. 

For many of us in the USA, Chianti was the first red wine that we ever sipped -- usually at an old-fashioned red-sauce Italian-American restaurant. Produced from the Sangiovese grape, Chianti's fruity and earthy flavors make it a very approachable and food-friendly wine. But don't under-estimate it; Chianti may be familiar but it can still surprise you with its complexity and expressiveness. Cecchi is one of the most prominent and respected producers of Chianti & Chianti Classico and they are committed to crafting wines that are true reflections of the grape, terroir, and vintage. 


Cecchi Valore di Famiglia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($59.99)
One of the most exciting developments in Chianti Classico was the introduction of Gran Selezione at the top of the quality pyramid in 2013. Cecchi recently released their debut vintage of Gran Selezione and their 2015 is the finest that I've tasted in the category. There has been some confusion in the marketplace about Gran Selezione - was it just a marketing ploy or a uniquely excellent expression of Chianti Classico? Cecchi Gran Selezione is an outstanding wine that is absolutely worthy of this prestigious designation. One of the unique qualities of Cecchi Gran Selezione is the fact that it is produced from 100% Sangiovese, although the category permits the addition of up to 20% of other grapes. The singular purity of the Sangiovese is powerful and evocative in Cecchi Gran Selezione. Velvety with finely knit tannins and vibrant but not jammy red fruit flavors, Cecchi Gran Selezione is sophisticated and sultry. Absolutely wonderful now, it has the structure and acidity needed to age with grace. A wine I could drink again and again and never tire of it.


 
Cecchi Chianti Classico Storia di Famiglia DOCG 2015 ($21)
I started this story at the top of three-tiered Chianti Classico pyramid with the exceptional, exciting, and new Gran Selezione but Cecchi has thoughtfully crafted wines at every tier and price point. The 2015 vintage of their Chianti Classico, the first level of the quality pyramid, is a great introduction to the Cecchi style. 90% Sangiovese, this bright and approachable wine is silky smooth with fresh flavors of strawberry and raspberry with flirty hints of spice. 



Cecchi Chianti Classico Riserva di Famiglia DOCG 2014 ($36)
Representing the middle tier of the three-tiered Chianti Classico pyramid, Cecchi Riserva is 90% Sangiovese and has its own style: refined and sultry with dark and ripe fruit flavors, soft tannins, and a thread of spice and herbs. 



Cecchi La Mora Vermentino Maremma Toscana DOC 2017 ($18.99)
As mentioned, Cecchi makes wine beyond the Chianti Classico region and one of their most exciting ventures has been their expansion into the coastal Maremma region, considered Tuscany's wild frontier. I visited Cecchi's Maremma winery, Val delle Rose, about 2 years ago and it is a stunningly beautiful property. The name La Mora, which means horse, was inspired by the majestic dark horses and Italian cowboys that once roamed the region. Andrea said that their La Mora wines are crafted to offer "good quality at a reasonable price." Vermentino is one of my favorite Italian wines and crisp and refreshing La Mora is a charming example. Andrea said that "2017 was a great vintage" and La Mora Vermentino is juicy and pleasant with vivacious flavors of citrus and pineapple that are balanced by minerality. A great alternative to the ubiquitous Pinot Grigio. 

"We want to express the origin of our wines," said Andrea. From Chianti Classico to Maremma, Cecchi wines have a compelling sense of place. You'll also notice that all of Cecchi's Chianti Classico wines include the word famiglia in their name; the love of family and devotion to legacy is truly at the heart of this 125 year old winery. When your family's name is on the bottle, wine transcends from beverage to a beloved representation of past, present, and future. The Cecchi family can rest well at night knowing that their wines are representing them well around the globe. From casual meals of pizza and pasta to more elaborate fare, you can serve Cecchi wines to your family and friends with pride.