Wine With Wanda

Make Montefalco Your Next Wine Adventure

Devis Romanelli's family has been making wine in the hills of Montefalco for three generations. Like many Montefalco wine estates, Romanelli also produces olive oil. 

Now is the perfect time to start planning your wine-centric adventures for 2023. If you’re looking for authentic wines, warm people, and a stunning natural landscape, Montefalco delivers all that and more. Montefalco is in Umbria, known as the “Green Heart of Italy” because of its verdant green landscape. And the tiny hilltop town of Montefalco, with a population of around 6,000 people, could very well be considered the wine heart of Umbria: It’s a small town that has significantly impacted the Italian wine scene.

The view from Tabarrini Winery. 

I’ve traveled to Italy countless times, yet Umbria had always evaded me until I visited Montefalco in the Spring of 2022 to attend a preview of the region’s wines hosted by the Montefalco Wine Consortium. Montefalco has a rich winemaking history that spans centuries, but it’s only in recent decades that the area started garnering serious attention and acclaim for its red wine, Sagrantino. Indigenous to Montefalco, the grape reaches its highest expression in its hills and calcareous clay soils. Montefalco Sagrantino was granted DOCG status in 1992.

Sagrantino is a powerful, tannic, and complex grape, and regulations require that Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG contain 100% of the grape. During my visit to Montefalco, many producers expressed their desire to create red wines that are more approachable but still authentic. 


The Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG wines I enjoyed most still displayed power but weren’t clunky, aggressive, or too oaky. The essence of the grape came through in the glass -- flavors of black plum, black cherry, licorice, earth, and black pepper. By nature, the Sagrantino grape is extremely tannic; but Montefalco’s producers have found ways to manage the tannins. For example, picking riper grapes and aging the wines in used oak can mitigate tannins. But because of its impressive structure, Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG is a wine that ages like a dream. Even the more approachable expressions really start to sing in the glass 10, 15, and 20+ years later.

While waiting for your Montefalco Sagrantino to age, give Montefalco Rosso DOC a swirl. Mostly Sangiovese with 10-25% Sagrantino, the result is an approachable red wine with structure, freshness, and softer tannins.

Montefalco’s red wines are quite special, but the white wines, especially Trebbiano Spoletino, are also a revelation. This white grape is native to Umbria and produces wines with texture, finesse, and aging potential. And Montefalco Bianco DOC wines blend a minimum of 50% Trebbiano Spoletino with other white varieties. 

Fresh and bright Montefalco Grechetto DOC is a flirty and refreshing everyday sip.

Are you ready for an adventure in Montefalco? Even if your travels don’t take you to Umbria, I encourage you to try wines from the 12 producers listed below. Cheers!

Arnaldo Caprai

Ten years ago, I was invited to a tasting in NYC to celebrate Arnaldo Caprai being honored as European Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast. On that day, I met winemaker Marco Caprai and tasted Sagrantino for the first time. Arnaldo Caprai, Marco’s father, founded his eponymous winery in 1971 and Marco assumed leadership in 1988. Marco embarked on a mission to create Sagrantino wines of exceptional quality. To say Marco succeeded is an understatement; he is widely credited for proving to a global audience that Sagrantino from Montefalco deserved to be recognized as one of Italy’s top-tier wines. Marco’s success generated interest and acclaim for other winemakers in Montefalco. 

Tabarrini

Meet the vivacious and poetic innovator of Montefalco -- winemaker Giampaolo Tabarrini. During my recent visit to his beautiful winery, Giampaolo said I could select any bottle from the cellar to pair with our lunch. I chose a wine that I absolutely adore, Tabarrini “Adarmando” Trebbiano Spoletino. Giampaolo advised me to pick a vintage that reflected a special time in my life, so I picked 2010 -- the year I first started writing about wine.

Full of life and energy at 12-years-old, Adarmando 2010 showed no signs of slowing down; it was textured, generous, and multi-dimensional. Just like Giampaolo.

Scacciadiavoli

Founded in 1884, Scacciadiavoli is one of the oldest properties in Montefalco. It was a pleasure to tour the old, but very efficient cellars with fourth-generation vintner Liù Pambuffetti. The original cellars may not be shiny and new but they are full of soul. The name Scacciadiavoli means banish the devils and refers to an episode of exorcism in the 14th century when a young woman who was possessed by the devil was liberated by drinking some local red wine. In addition to the core wines of the region, Scacciadiavoli also produces world-class traditional method sparkling wines. 


And a special thank you to Chef Giulio Gigli of Ristorante UNE for the delicious and creative small bites that accompanied the Scacciadiavoli wines.

Tenuta Castelbuono

Alessandro Lunelli and winemaker Luca Capaldini

Simultaneously futuristic and organic, Tenuta Castelbuono makes heads turn. Did aliens build this winery in Umbria or did it hatch from the earth? Proprietor Alessandro Lunelli solved the mystery: Acclaimed contemporary artist Arnaldo Pomodoro designed this unique structure, known as the “Carapace” (turtle shell), to blur the lines between architecture and sculpture.


Alessandro described the Carapace as a sculpture that people can enter. And upon entering, visitors can enjoy some solid wines. If the name Lunelli sounds familiar, it’s because their award-winning Ferrari wines are the pillars of Trentodoc, the traditional method sparkling wine from Trento, in the north of Italy. Intrigued by the quality of Sagrantino wines coming out of Montefalco, in 2001 the Lunelli family purchased Tenuta Castelbuono. A few years later, they committed to building a new winery to match their vision for crafting elegant and high-quality wines.

Terre de Trinci

Meet the dynamic duo of Nicola and Lorenzo Mattoni from Cantina Terre de Trinci! These charming and hardworking brothers are pouring their heart, soul, and expertise into making wines that authentically express the terroir and culture of Umbria. Nicola (on the left) is the winemaker and Lorenzo (right) handles marketing and exports. We often talk about the aging potential of Sagrantino and Terre de Trinci proved it by pouring an exceptional 1998 Sagrantino – it was full of energy and layers of flavor.

Antonelli

Filippo Antonelli
image courtesy of Antonelli 

Talk about a rich history -- this expansive estate, of 430 acres, is mentioned in several medieval documents and has been in the Antonelli family since 1881. Visitors can enjoy wine tastings, overnight stays in a restored antique farmhouse, and cooking classes. 

Lungarotti 

Chiara (left) and Teresa Lungarotti (right) with their mother Maria Grazia. 
image courtesy of Lungarotti 

Considered one of Umbria's premier wineries, Lungarotti was founded by Giorgio Lungarotti in the 1960s. Today, his daughters Chiara (CEO) and Teresa (enologist) lead the company. 

 La VenerandaWith Roberto from La Veneranda. 

This small family-owned winery is one of the hidden treasures of the region and has deep roots in Montefalco; they’ve been cultivating land in the region since 1568. 

Romanelli 

image courtesy of Romanelli 

Three generations of the Romanelli family live and work together to produce wine and olive oil at their picture-perfect hilltop estate in the heart of Montefalco. They also have a wine shop in the historic town center. 

Benedetti & Grigi 

Benedetti & Grigi winemaker Matteo Basili

One of the newer wineries in Montefalco, Benedetti & Grigi produced their first vintage in 2014. 

Valdangius

Sandra and Danilo Antonelli make terroir-driven wines at their family's small farm in Montefalco. 

Terre di San Felice

On my last day in Montefalco, I spent a sweet morning at Terre di San Felice. I’ll never forget sitting in the backyard of the farmhouse and sharing wine and laughter with Carlo Mancini and his cousin who reminded me a bit of Robert DeNiro! I felt like I was visiting long lost family. Such a special moment. Lovely wines made from the heart. 

Where to Stay

La Rocca Guest House & Spa

image courtesy of La Rocca Guest House & Spa

Just a three-minute walk from Montefalco's main square, Piazza del Comune, this charming and comfortable guest house is owned by a Roman who left city life behind for Umbria's rustic appeal. Spacious rooms, gorgeous views of the countryside, and delicious breakfast. 

On my balcony at La Rocca Guest House

Where to Dine

Ristorante Locanda del Teatro Montefalco

Located just down the street from La Rocca Guest House, this elegant restaurant has it all: beautiful ambiance, attentive service, great wine list, and innovative interpretations of local cuisine. We liked it so much, we ate there twice! 

Enoteca di Benezzo

image courtesy of Enoteca di Benozzo

Located on the Piazza del Comune, this is a great spot for soaking in the local scene and enjoying local cheeses, salumi, and wines. 

Wine's Wild West: My "Food & WIne" Feature About Paso Robles, California

People are often surprised when I tell them that I've  been writing for more than a decade. What a journey it's been, and I continue to learn more every day. Since I was a little girl, I've loved writing and never imagined that wine would be a source of endless inspiration. In addition to the sheer beauty of wine, the people and places move me. Getting to share those stories with others is a blessing. 



I'm thrilled that my story Wine's Wild West appears in the April 2022 issue of Food & Wine magazine (page 65). It explores the wine scene in Paso Robles, California, and includes info on restaurants and hotel accommodations. Featured wineries include Booker Estate, L'Aventure, Tablas Creek, Thacher Winery & Vineyard, and others. The wine travel club, The Vines, is also highlighted. 

Also, on page 20, you'll find my short piece Cool It: How Wine Pros Store Their Wine at Home. Cheers! 

Maremma Memories: Where the Tuscan Spirit is Wild and the Wines are Magical

Vineyards at Fattoria di Magliano, in the heart of Tuscany's Maremma region. 

Maybe I should have consulted a psychic or given a crystal ball a vigorous shake? I certainly would have benefitted from some forewarning that my October 2019 journey to the Maremma region of Tuscany would be my last trip abroad for the foreseeable future. As the COVID-19 pandemic continues to keep much of the world on lockdown, memories of past journeys are more precious than ever. Who knows when I'll travel overseas again, but I feel fortunate that the wines, landscapes, and people of Maremma are seared in my mind.  

The world's love affair with Tuscany and its wines is well-established, but we often overlook that Tuscany is not a monolith; the region consists of several different winemaking areas. While Chianti and Montalcino may be household names, you're almost guaranteed to get a quizzical look when you mention Maremma, even though its viticultural history goes back to the Etruscans. Known as Tuscany's wildest region, surely no one could have imagined that the former malarial marshland would transform into one of its most acclaimed wine regions. Maremma's reputation for wildness is bolstered by the charmingly rustic butteri, cowboys and cattle breeders that are a treasured link to Maremma's past and still roam the landscape.


The beach at Maremma Regional Park, a protected 25,000 acre nature reserve. 

Located in the southern part of Tuscany, Maremma Toscana DOC wines are produced across the entire province of Grosseto. Maremma's almost 9,000 hectares of vineyards span the breezy Maremma coastline, the slopes of the dormant volcano Mount Amiata, the Argentario peninsula, and Giglio Island. This diversity isn't just pleasing to the eye, but it also provides an abundance of unique soil and climatic conditions ideal for growing excellent grapes. And, we all know that excellent wines start with great grapes. Maremma is home to several charming indigenous grapes, including Ciliegiolo, which means little cherry. Ciliegiolo may be unfamiliar, but chances are you know its offspring; it is a parent of Sangiovese, Tuscany's most famous grape variety, and the foundation of many of its greatest wines. But an abundance of indigenous and international grape varieties also thrive in Maremma, including Sangiovese, Vermentino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.

There is no one style of Maremma wine. Maremma's crisp & mineral-driven whites, fruity reds, and complex age-worthy reds reflect the diversity of the terroir and grape varieties. The Consorzio Tutela Vini della Maremma Toscana (Consortium for the Protection of Maremma Toscana Wines), who graciously hosted my 2019 trip, stated that "Ripe fruit, subtle complexity, crispness and a pleasant mouth feel are common characteristics of the wines from Maremma. No other area in Tuscany can offer such a wide variety of wines, also due to the essential characteristics of the grape varieties grown here."

The COVID-19 pandemic may have temporarily clipped our travel wings, but the essence of Maremma is just a bottle away. Fill your glass with wines from one of these Maremma wines and let them transport you. Please note that I opted not to provide detailed tasting notes on the wines. I tasted many wonderful wines during my Maremma trip and these were some of my favorites. For tasting notes and other technical details, please click on the bottle or winemaker image; this will lead you the winery's website for additional information.  

Rocca di Frassinello


A joint venture between the Chianti Classico estate Castellare di Castellina and the iconic French wine producers Domaines Barons de Rothschild - Château Lafite, Rocca di Frassinello is a prime example of the excitement and investment Maremma generates from established winemakers. Founded in 2007, 90 of the estate's 500 hectares are planted to vineyards.

Adding further allure to the estate's natural beauty, Rocca di Frassinello's stunning winery was designed by world-renowned architect Renzo Piano. Under the leadership of award-winning head winemaker Alessandro Cellai, Rocca di Frassinello's wines are acclaimed for their elegance and authenticity.

Suggested Wines: 


Rocca di Frassinello 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 60% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot. $59

Rocca di Frassinello Baffonero 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Merlot. $240



Rocca di Frassinello Le Sughere di Frassinello 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 50% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. $24

L'Azienda Agricola Biologica Basile


I visited Maremma for the first time in 2015, and the afternoon I spent at Basile Organic Wine Farm was one of the highlights. So, it was a great pleasure to see Giovan Battista Basile again during my 2019 visit. Originally from Naples, Giovan left practicing law to work the vineyards when he and his brother Domenico purchased an abandoned hilltop vineyard in Maremma and poured their heart and soul into restoring the land. The winery was founded in 1999 and Giovan manages the organically farmed vineyards and vines.

Suggested Wine: Comandante 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 50% Sangiovese, 50% Merlot. ($25)

Val delle Rose

Famiglia Cecchi, an iconic producer of Chianti Classico, also saw Maremma's tremendous potential and acquired Val delle Rose in 1996. I visited Val delle Rose for the first time in 2015, and it was thrilling to see how the winery has evolved. Never losing sight of crafting wines that are true to the terroir, they also embrace innovation.


During my recent visit, I tasted several wines with winemaker Andrea Fioriello, including compelling expressions of Vermentino and Ciliegiolo. When asked about the aging of their wines in oak, Andrea said, "We use the wood as an instrument to make the wine more ready, more round, more soft." But he's careful to not overdo it and crafts wines with great freshness, grace, and minerality. 

Suggested Wines:


Val delle Rose Cobalto 2017 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Vermentino. A unique Vermentino that was fermented in a combination of amphora, oak, and stainless steel vessels and aged 10 months on the lees. $26 


Val delle Rose Ciliegiolo 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Ciliegiolo. $30

Tenuta Belguardo


Francesco Mazzei, Managing Director of Mazzei, is also president of the Consorzio Tutela Vini della Maremma Toscana. Established in 2014, this consortium of wine grape growers, winemakers, and wine bottlers protects and promotes the quality of Maremma Toscana DOC wines. Mazzei stated, "An appellation has to reflect what a territory is about, and Maremma is a place of many varieties."

Founded in 1435, Mazzei is another venerable Chianti Classico producer that set their sights on Maremma. The Mazzei family purchased their Maremma estate, Tenuta Belguardo, in the mid 1990's. Located in the heart of the Maremma, on the hills between Grosseto and Montiano, and next to the Tyrrhenian Sea, the 70-hectare property has an ideal terroir for cultivating expressive grapes of exceptional quality. 

Suggested Wine: Tenuta Belguardo 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc. $60. 

Fattoria di Magliano


Located in the heart of Maremma, Fattoria di Magliano was founded in 2007. Their consulting winemaker, Graziana Grassini, is one of Italy's most acclaimed enologists and was a protégé of the legendary Giacomo Tachis. Fattoria di Magliano's gorgeous estate includes 52 acres of vineyards where they grow Sangiovese and Vermentino primarily, in addition to Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Ansonica. The wines of Fattoria di Magliano display impressive exuberance and vitality, but are also very elegant and earthy.

Suggested Wines: Fattoria di Magliano Altizi 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Cabernet Franc. $65


Fattoria di Magliano Poggio Bestiale 2014 Maremma Toscana DOC. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot. $60

Rocca di Montemassi

Alessandro Gallo, winemaker and technical director for Rocca di Montemassi hails from Piemonte, but he still typifies the positive energy of the winemakers I met in Maremma: no matter where they're originally from, their love of this land is intense. Alessandro describes Rocca di Montemassi as a "wine farm" where winemaking is in harmony with other agricultural activities.


The 430-hectare estate, of which 180 are planted to vines, is also home to Maremmana cows, wheat fields, and olive trees. The Zonin family, a family with seven generations of winemaking experience and nine wineries in seven of Italy's most important wine regions, acquired the property in 1999.

Suggested Wine: Rocca di Montemassi 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 35% Syrah, 35% Petit Verdot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. $30. 

Sassotondo


Agronomist Carla Benini, and her husband Edoardo Ventimiglia, purchased their Maremma estate in 1994 and produced their first vintage in 1997. Sassotondo's organically-farmed vineyards are alive with biodiversity, a testament to Carla's belief that "biodiversity protects you".  Sassotondo's portfolio includes several expressions of Ciliegiolo that were vinified differently to showcase this indigenous grape's capacity to create distinct styles of wine.

Suggested Wine:  Sassotondo Ciliegiolo 2018 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Ciliegiolo. ($18)

Maremma is More Than Wine


View from my room at the boutique hotel, Torre Cala Piccola. 

Wine is beautifully integrated into Maremma's culture, but the region is full of treasures.  Stunning landscapes, historical sites, and world-class dining make it a top-notch destination. For accommodations, I recommend the luxurious Terme di Saturnia Spa & Resort, where you can soak your troubles away in their world-famous ancient thermal waters. If you're craving a more laidback seaside vibe, Torre Cala Piccola is perched above the Argentario Sea and has breathtaking views of Giulio and Giannutri islands. Hotel Miramare is no-frills but comfortable and the beach is right at your feet! 

From rustic country fare to haute cuisine, I ate like a queen in Maremma. Recommended restaurants: Da Caino in Montemerano, where Chef Valeria Piccini presents an elegant twist on homestyle cooking.


Chef Valeria Piccini, Da Caino restaurant 



Chef Piccini's "Tortelli Cacio e Pere con Salsa de Barba Rossa (pasta stuffed with pear & cheese, with Barba Rossa grape sauce) 




Seafood lovers will gobble every fresh morsel presented by Chef Massimiliano Ciregia at Osteria del Mare in Castiglione della Pescaia. 

 Chef Ciregia's interpretation of the traditional fish stew, Cucciucco. 

I look forward to returning Maremma again one day and feeling as blissful as I did when this photo was taken in the vineyards of Rocca di Frassinello. Until then, I'll sip and daydream! 

A True Taste of Trentino: Ferrari Trentodoc Sparkling Wine

How can air be this fresh? My Manhattan lungs weren’t quite prepared for Trentino’s intense infusion of clean and crisp mountain air. I greedily gulped it in. My goodness, it was delicious. I felt absolutely rejuvenated. With air like this, Ferrari sparkling wines start off with a strong advantage — grapes that have been caressed day-in and day-out by the pristine mountain breezes that flow through Ferrari’s vineyards in the northeast of Italy. Lucky grapes.


Founded in 1902 by Giulio Ferrari, Ferrari is the most awarded and renowned producer of one of Italy’s finest wines: Trentodoc. Inspired by Champagne, Ferrari was determined to show the world that Italy could produce elegant sparkling wines with character and complexity. Recognizing that the soil and climate of Trentino provided the ideal conditions for his venture, Ferrari is credited for Italy's first significant plantings of Chardonnay. The name Trentodoc cleverly combines Trento, the wine’s city of origin, with DOC, (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), an official designation used to classify Italian wines. Produced in the same labor-intensive manner as Champagne, Ferrari and all Trentodoc wines are crafted using the Metodo Classico and its bubbles are created by a second fermentation in the bottle.

In 1952, Giulio Ferrari, who had no children, selected Bruno Lunelli, the owner of a wine shop in Trento, as his successor. Today, the third generation of the Lunelli family, Marcello, Camilla, Matteo, and Alessandro, are keeping the legacy alive and enchanting wine lovers around the world with their excellent wines and sparkling attitude. 

As an unabashed lover of sparkling wines, I’ve been a fan of Ferrari Trentodoc since I was introduced to their wines several years ago. I quickly noticed that my enthusiasm for Ferrari’s elegant bubbles was shared by my Italian friends living in my hometown of NYC. Whenever I showed up with a bottle of Ferrari, there were audible oohs and aahs of appreciation and anticipation. For them, Ferrari isn’t just a taste of home but a testament to fine Italian craftsmanship and the sanctity of celebration. Toasting with Ferrari means the moment, big or small, matters.

Freshly harvested Ferrari Chardonnay grapes.

The method is the same, and even the grapes, primarily Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but make no mistake, Trentodoc is no pale imitation of Champagne. These “sparkling wines from the mountains” stand on their own. As stated on the Trentodoc website, “Trentodoc is the expression of the land it comes from, Trentino. Trentodoc expresses its climate, high altitudes, and essence. From the highest Alpine peaks to the Mediterranean climes of the foothills where the temperatures are mitigated by the Ora del Garda winds, and the continental climate in the valley, every glass is unique and carries the character of its place of origin.”

Marcello Lunelli, Ferrari's chief winemaker, was animated and passionate during our vineyard stroll. 

It’s almost become a cliché but some variation of the phrase “great wine starts in the vineyards” has become a mantra for winemakers around the globe. But what does that really mean? Marcello Lunelli, Ferrari’s chief winemaker, emphasized that Ferrari’s wines don’t exist in isolation, they are an expression of the territory. “The fingerprint of a company like Ferrari is the territory. Without territory, you are nothing,” Marcello insisted.

Pinot Noir grapes at Ferrari awaiting the perfect moment for harvesting. 

Even with their impressive output of 5.5 million bottles per year, which represents 20% of Italy’s total production of Metodo Classico wines, Ferrari’s wines are never generic. To maintain a true taste of territory in every bottle; all of their grapes come from mountain vineyards. The warm days and cool nights of these higher altitude vineyards have a tangible impact on the grapes, imbuing them with an expressive range of flavors and aromas. Ferrari owns 100 hectares of certified organic vineyards and sustainability protocols are in place for their 600 grape growers.

Ferrari knows that fostering biodiversity in the vineyard is essential to growing healthy grapes. Bees are important partners in building a strong eco-system. 

Exported to more than 50 countries, Ferrari is not only the toast of Italy but beloved around the globe. And the experts have noticed. In 2019, The Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships recognized Ferrari as Sparkling Wine Producer of the Year. I concur that Ferrari’s wines hold their own against, and often outshine, other high-quality, traditional method sparkling wines.


During my visit to Ferrari, they confidently hosted a comparative tasting of their wines alongside some of the most celebrated traditional method wines from Italy and France. In my estimation, from non-vintage to top cuvée, single-varietal or blend, in each category Ferrari either dominated or tied but never faltered. Under the innovative and passionate leadership of the Lunelli family, Giulio Ferrari’s dream of producing world-class sparkling wines has been achieved. 

Are you ready to take your palate on a sparkling adventure with Ferrari? Here are a few of my favorite sips from their impressive portfolio.


Ferrari Brut Trentodoc ($27.99) was my dazzling introduction to Ferrari and never fails to impress me. Consistently crisp and clean, this 100% Chardonnay bubbly has the perfect balance between fresh flavors of citrus and apple with a hint of bready yeast.

A blend of Pinot Noir (60%) and Chardonnay (40%), Ferrari Brut Rosé Trentodoc ($35.99) is brazenly pretty with an elegant and streamlined structure. Like a ballerina, it twirls gracefully across the palate with flavors of fresh raspberry, strawberry, and a hint of crunchy red apple.


Ferrari Perlé 2013 Trentodoc ($42.99) is an excellent example of how beautifully an impeccably crafted Trentodoc can age. 100% Chardonnay, it is the more complex and nuanced companion to the Ferrari Brut. There’s a sultry smokiness to its citrus flavors. Hints of almond and warm bread crust are elegant traits found consistently throughout the Ferrari Trentodoc portfolio.

100% Chardonnay, Ferrari Riserva Lunelli 2009 Trentodoc ($64.99) spent an impressive minimum seven years aging on the lees. That extended yeast contact imbues it with a luxurious richness and complexity. Juicy and round with accents of toasty lemon meringue and a kiss of spice; this is a sexy and sophisticated sip. 

Last on my list but very far from least, Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore Trentodoc 2007 ($134.99) is one of my favorite wines that I tasted last year. 100% Chardonnay, it is a multi-dimensional sparkling wine with an expansive and elegant range of flavors and textures. Crisp, mineral, fruity, floral, and nutty with touches of honey and soft spice, it’s all in the glass. This is a wine to savor.

As a wine writer, and most importantly, a wine lover; I love trying new wines from every corner of the globe. But there’s an undeniable comfort and satisfaction in finding a producer that crafts wines that keep you coming back year after year. Consistently elegant, nuanced, festive, and drinkable, Ferrari Trentodoc adds an essential spark of joy and beauty to every occasion.


If you're planning a trip to Italy, Ferrari welcomes visitors for tours and tastings. And for an exceptional wine & dine experience, make a reservation at Ferrari's Michelin-starred restaurant, Locanda Margon.

Soul, Style, Somontano: Viñas del Vero's Wines Are an Intriguing Taste of Spain

 Living la vida Somontano! A spread of fresh and authentic Spanish cuisine paired with Secastilla Garnacha in their stunning vineyard in Somontano. 

Traveling in the name of wine brings so much joy to my life but sometimes writing about the places and people that have secured a place in my wine-loving heart is a daunting task. Finding the right words to adequately describe a transcendent moment can feel like an exercise in futility. Call me melodramatic, but this is how I feel as I stare at my computer screen and struggle to write about my recent visit to Viñas del Vero winery in the Somontano region of Spain. Write, delete. Write, delete. Remembering the advice of an old boss that told me more than once, "Wanda, sometimes done is better than perfect," I plunge ahead. Imperfectly yet passionately, here I go! 

Let's start with some key facts. Somontano is located in the northeast of Spain at the foot of the Pyrenees, in the province of Huesca in Aragón. Somontano means "beneath the mountain" and the Pyrenees mountains provide a natural border with France. Viñas del Vero, one of Somontano's most important and celebrated producers, is part of the prestigious González Byass family of wineries. 

Elegant, rich, and refreshing La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha Blanca 2017 (around $17) is a charming expression of the complex flavors of the grapes grown in Viñas del Vero's high-altitude Secastilla vineyard. 

These 2008, 2013, and 2018 vintages of Viñas del Vero Chardonnay showcased the aging capacity of these well-made wines from Somontano. 

Somontano stands out not only for producing some of Spain's highest quality wines but also for its incredible viticultural diversity. Somontano's unique terroir makes it ideal for growing a wide variety of grapes, including Garnacha, Gerwürztraminer, Chardonnay, Merlot, and more. Few places in Spain can match Somontano's powerful two-punch of quality & diversity. Whenever I recommend wines from Somontano, Viñas del Vero's diverse portfolio of wines tops my list. 

Secastilla

One of Viñas del Vero's most precious treasures is their old-vine, high-altitude vineyard in Secastilla valley, in the far north-eastern limits of Somontano. I first visited Secastilla in 2017 and have been blessed with the opportunity to return two more times -- most recently in the spring of 2019. Secastilla is a place that both soothes and exhilarates my soul. For me, Secastilla expresses the essence and power of wine as a source of pleasure and peace. Vines were first planted here by the Romans in the 1st century BC and the name Secastilla references the seven castles that once dominated the landscape. 

"Apart from being a way of life, the best thing about wine is the passion or the hook it puts in you. It is not only work, but enjoyment." 
José Ferrer, winemaker and manager, Viñas del Vero

I've become such a familiar face at Viñas del Vero's winery and vineyard, winemaker and general manager José Ferrer joked that perhaps I should lead the tour instead of him. A winemaking genius, José is humble and charming. I never tire of hearing about his elaborate barrel aging process for their high end Blecua wines or climbing the steep slopes of Secastilla and touching the 100-year-old vines that are the foundation of their award-winning Garnacha. José's connection to this land is authentic and intense. He never imagined that one day he would lead winemaking in the same vineyards he wandered as a child. José is absolutely sincere when he says that he wants all of Viñas del Vero's wines to be an expression of their land. He could never imagine doing it any other way; Somontano is in his soul.

Old Garnacha vine at Secastilla

More than once I've joked with friends that should I ever run away, chances are that you'll find me in Spain, and Somontano is one of the first places they should look! Just a few hours by car from Barcelona, I highly recommend a visit to Somontano and time at Viñas del Vero is a must. They have a wonderful tasting room and their visitor experiences include tastings and vineyard tours, including by Segway. During the harvest season, guests can experience the incredible process of picking and pressing grapes. 

Of course, you don't have to cross the ocean to get a taste of Viñas del Vero's wines. You can take your palate on a tasting adventure to Somontano from the comfort of your living room. 


La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha 2016 is an excellent introduction to the house style. Crafted from high-altitude old vines; its purity of expression and elegant concentration of flavor is impressive. Wonderful now, this wine has the structure needed to age beautifully. This wine has quite a legacy -- the 2012 vintage was honored as the Best Red Wine in Spain at the International Wine Challenge.  

I must confess to an obsession with Blecua. I don't only consider it one of Spain's most impressive wines, it's a tremendous wine by any measure. José considers Blecua 2010 the finest wine he has ever made. and said, "Keeping in mind that it is a wine with two years of aging and that is made with the best of the best of the best of the best. It is not only a wine of the vineyard, but also of the winery. It requires a lot of reflection on what to save and what to give up. It is a winemaker´s wine." First produced in 1997 and only in the best vintages, for me Blecua is the wine that best expresses Somontano's ability to produce world-class and awe-inspiring wines.

Smiles and wines are in abundance whenever I see José Ferrer on my visits to Somontano! His talent, passion, and connection to the region imbue the wines of Viñas del Vero with authentic character. 

I stand by the words I wrote in 2017 when I tasted Blecua for the first time. "Like an artist working with a palette, José approaches Blecua creatively and the red blend changes with each vintage. Blecua involves a triple selection process of choosing the best vineyard sites, best grape bunches, and the best barrels. Barrel selection is an integral part of the Blecua process and José experiments with aging the grapes in French and American oak with varying levels of char before making the final selection. The end result is a sophisticated wine with tremendous approachability and aging ability." What's changed since then is that Blecua is now available in the United States - thank goodness! 

The beauty of the Viñas del Vero portfolio is that it truly has a wine for every mood, meal, and budget. Whether you are enjoying a simple picnic or haute cuisine, their wines enhance the experience. Only time will tell if my travels will bring me back to Somontano again but I know the region's wines, especially those from Viñas del Vero, will always be a part of my life. Authentic and delicious, each sip keeps me connected to a place in Spain that has become very special to me. 

To learn more about Somontano and Viñas del Vero, read my articles Seduced By Somontano: My Unforgettable Wine Adventure in Spain and All Roads Lead to Garnacha: A Wine Lover's Journey Through Spain and France. 

The Bon Vivant of Ruffino: Beppe d'Andrea Shares Tuscany's Wines and Lifestyle with the World

Beppe in the Big Apple! What a great afternoon of wines and conversation at Upland restaurant with Beppe d'Andrea of Ruffino winery during his whirlwind visit to NYC. 

Beppe d'Andrea is living the dream. As the Global Brand Ambassador for Ruffino winery, Beppe jet sets around the world sharing the infinite charms of "La Vita Ruffino", their mantra for the fine Italian art of good living. For quite some time, I've been happily following Beppe's adventures on social media and I finally had the opportunity to share some wine and conversation with this tireless Tuscan. Charming, energetic, knowledgable, and down-to-earth, Beppe has been with Ruffino for 32 years and represents everything a brand ambassador should be. 

One of the most familiar names in the world of Italian wine, Ruffino was founded in 1877 by cousins Ilario and Leopoldo Ruffino in Tuscany. The very first Chianti exported to the United States, Ruffino is a staple at any well-stocked wine shop. Ruffino's portfolio showcases some of Tuscany's most celebrated wines, including Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, and those captivating blends known as Super Tuscans. "The quality of the wine is not just the juice in the bottle," said Beppe. He further explained that for Ruffino winemaking is about "respect, tradition, and love." Those ideals are manifested in actions such as Ruffino actively taking strides towards 100% organic production. 

image courtesy of Il Relais Ruffino

Explaining that Ruffino's "goal is not to make just good wine but a good life style," Beppe shared news of their very first hotel property, Il Relais Ruffino. Designed to fully immerse guests in La Vita Ruffino, the luxuriously appointed 7-room inn is surrounded by olive trees and vineyards in the heart of Chianti Classico. Located just 20 minutes from Florence at Ruffino's Poggio Casciano estate, the property includes a dramatic infinity swimming pool facing a hillside vineyard where you can sip and lounge the day away. Other activities include wine tastings, vineyard tours, and meals at Locanda Ruffino. 

image courtesy of Il Relais Ruffino

A stay at Il Relais Ruffino has been added to my travel wish list. And if any of my friends are reading this, let's plan to rent out the property for a truly elegant and relaxing Tuscan getaway. If we're lucky, maybe Beppe will be there to greet us! 

Of course, Ruffino's wines make it possible to experience a taste of La Vita Ruffino no matter where you are. 

2015 Ruffino Tenuta Santedame Chianti Classico DOCG ($20) is mostly Sangiovese (80%) blended with Merlot, Colorino, Cabernet, and Canaiolo. 2015 was an exceptional vintage throughout Tuscany and this Chianti Classico is beautifully balanced and full of vitality. Fresh, juicy, and velvety flavors of plum, blackberry, and a hint of savory balsamic. 


A blend of Sangiovese (34%), Cabernet Sauvignon (33%), and Merlot (33%), 2015 Ruffino Modus Toscana IGT ($25) is plush and robust with silky tannins. Aged in French oak for 12 months, subtle hints of spice beautifully accent luscious fruit flavors and hints of herbs. 

Produced only in the very best vintages, only 5,000 bottles of 2015 Ruffino Alauda IGT Toscana ($100) were made. A voluptuous yet graceful blend of Cabernet Franc (40%), Merlot (35%), and Colorino (25%), Alauda shows the magic that can happen when the blessing of an exceptional vintage is married to intuitive yet precise winemaking. With rich berry and plum flavors and hints of chocolate, espresso, and earth, Alauda is superb now and will age exquisitely. 

2013 Ruffino Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG ($80) is a fine example of a classic Brunello. Rich but not overbearing, this elegant expression of 100% Sangiovese Grosso dazzles with intense red fruit flavors and sultry hints of chocolate and earth.

Visit the Ruffino website to learn more about Ruffino's wines, history, and details on arranging a visit. 

Wine, Dine and Unwind in Provence at Château La Coste and Le Château des Demoiselles

A great trip stays with you long after you've returned. Several months ago, I had a soul satisfying adventure in Provence and memories from that journey still provide moments of joy when I'm feeling stressed by my daily Manhattan grind. Two places that make frequent appearances in my rosé tinted daydreams are Château La Coste and Le Château des Demoiselles. (So many châteaux, so little time!) One is contemporary, the other is classic but both of these beautiful locations are quintessentially Provence. And you'll never go thirsty, rosè and other local wines flow in abundance at both!  

Provence has no shortage of stunning scenery but Château La Coste stands out in spectacular fashion. The landscape's natural beauty is enhanced by larger-than-life sculptures like Louise Bourgeois's famous Crouching Spider. Bold contemporary art installations from major artists are sprinkled throughout La Coste. Striking but melding harmoniously with the environment, the art is both whimsical and thought-provoking. And if you're like me and have an appetite that gets revved up by art, the dining options at La Coste include a restaurant by celebrated Argentine chef Francis Mallmann.

 

His first restaurant in Europe, Chef Mallmann's restaurant at La Coste showcases his renowned open-fire style of cooking that is inspired by traditional South American culinary techniques.

Provence is renowned for the high quality of their meats, seafood, and produce and Mallmann adds a distinctive South American flair to these exceptional Mediterranean ingredients. Vibrant with an airy design that is bathed in Provence's ethereal light, Restaurant Francis Mallmann's interior design was inspired by the colors that iconic artist Cezanne used in his Aix-en-Provence studio.  

And don't forget the wine! The friendly staff at the Château La Coste wine shop will pour you a taste or two, or three! If one day of contemporary art, fine food, and delicious wine isn't enough, accommodations are available at Villa La Coste. 

To fully immerse yourself in a more classic Provence way of life, book a stay at the historic guesthouse at Le Château des Demoiselles. The regal ambiance of this 300-hectares wine estate is genuine -- it once belonged to Monaco's royal family, the Grimaldis.

Luxurious but not ostentatious, the Château's five suites and common spaces are spacious and comfortable. You can even hire their chef to prepare gourmet meals during your stay.

75 hectares of the estate are planted to vines and Le Château des Demoiselles produces a great selection of red, white, and rosé. I suggest sipping a bottle of their elegant and refreshing 2018 Château des Demoiselles Côtes de Provence Rosé ($17) while planning your getaway to Provence.  

A Special Tuscan Sip: Vernaccia di San Gimignano Needs to Be in Your Wine Glass!

Has Tuscany been keeping a secret from us? One of Italy's most visited and beloved regions, Tuscany has been so generous in sharing their iconic red wines, like Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, with the world. But have they been keeping the charming white wine Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG for themselves? 

image courtesy of Vernaccia di San Gimignano wine consortium

I'm happy to report that on my recent visit to San Gimignano that I met many producers who were eager to share their wines and implored me to spread the word. Located between Siena and Florence, San Gimignano is a stunning medieval era walled city that is renowned for its soaring towers that were built by powerful families to communicate their wealth and influence. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, San Gimignano's architecture and rich history make it a must-visit. And sipping the delightful local wine, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, is an essential and enjoyable part of the experience. 

mage courtesy of Vernaccia di San Gimignano wine consortium

What is Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG? According to the Vernaccia di San Gimignano Wine Consortium, the wine's history can be traced back to the 13th century and was consumed by high society, including kings, popes, and wealthy merchants. The wine achieved DOCG status in 1993, the top level of quality in the Italian wine classification system.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano is described by the Consortium as a "pale straw yellow coloured wine with golden highlights that become more evident with age. The perfume is fine and delicate, with fruity and floral scents when the wine is young. As it matures and ages, it develops the characteristic mineral scent of flint. It is a dry, harmonious and savoury flavoured wine. While pleasant when young, it often surprises with its capacity for ageing, developing sensorial notes in the nose and mouth that are complex and mineral." Production regulations require that Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG must contain at least 85% of the grape and up to 15% of other non-aromatic white grapes are allowed. 

During my visit, I had the pleasure of sampling a large selection of Vernaccia di San Gimignano and was incredibly impressed by their quality and the diversity of styles. Crisp and fruity with great minerality and a tinge of salinity, Vernaccia di San Gimignano is a really expressive and food-friendly wine with tremendous personality. But it also has the capacity to age beautifully and the older vintages displayed impressive texture and nuance. I was also impressed by the warm and generous personalities of the producers. Coincidentally, three of the most intriguing wines that I tasted were produced by wineries with women in leadership roles as winemakers and/or owners.  

Elegant and energetic Barbara Bernardi, of Borgo Tollena Wine Resort in San Gimignano, was one of the most memorable people that I met during my visit. She and her charming husband Lorenzo are the proprietors of an exquisite farm and winery with luxurious accommodations for guests. They also own a shop in the center of town that sells wines and other local delicacies. 

I fell in love with their Tollena "Signorina Vittoria" Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva 2015 ($28). Named after their daughter, Signorina Vittoria is a sophisticated expression of Vernaccia. 9 months on the lees imbues it with a touch of creaminess that melds beautifully with crisp citrus and slightly salty flavors. It is a rich but graceful vino that eloquently expresses the varietal's capacity for aging. Their wines have limited distribution in the USA but that will be changing soon! 

While tasting wines in San Gimignano, there was a name that I kept hearing over and over: Elisabetta Fagiuoli. The owner of Montenidoli since 1965, Elisabetta is respected for her strength of character and excellent wines. I did not have a chance to meet Elisabetta while I was in Italy, so I was thrilled when the stars aligned for us to meet when she was in New York City. Charismatic and vivacious, Elisabetta is not a person you forget. And her wines make an equally lasting impression.

Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Tradizionale 2017 ($21.99) is an excellent introduction to a classic style of Vernaccia. Lively and crisp with pure and vibrant fruit, this is no boring white wine. 

Winemaker Sandra Mora of Poderi Arcangelo makes superb organic Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG. I was so impressed by the precision and purity of her wine. Refreshing and balanced, it is available for around $15 a bottle.

Are you ready to give Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG a swirl? This Tuscan treasure really is the perfect wine for sunny spring and summer days. 

Blue Skies, Pink Wines, and Red Hot Passion: The Captivating Wines & People of Provence

In a world where few places live up to the hype, Provence elegantly exceeds it. From the breathtaking natural beauty of lavender fields in the Luberon to the glitzy yacht culture of St. Tropez, there really isn't one Provence. A captivating tapestry of diverse landscapes, moods, and people; wine is the perfect vehicle for discovering Provence's many charms. 

image courtesy of Wines of Provence

It would not be exaggerating to deem Provence the rosé capital of the world. It is the only region to dedicate 90% of their wine production to rosé. The United States is second only to France in consumption of rosé and 46% of Provençal rosé wines, an astounding 57.5 million bottles, were exported to the USA last year. The allure of Provence's pale pink wines fueled a global rosé sensation. Not just for summer, the desire to drink rosé all day has crescendoed to rosé all year for wine lovers. The runaway success of rosé from Provence has inspired many winemakers around the globe to emulate the region's pale pink style of wine. Others may succeed in crafting rosé wines but only Provence can lay claim to being the true originators of the rosé lifestyle. 

The pale pink wines of Provence are the best known but at the Rosé Research Center we explored the six main shades of Provençal rosé.

A recent visit to Provence as a guest of Wines of Provence was a refreshing deep dive into the region's wine culture. While a fresh and flirty style of rosé put wines from Provence on the map, wines from the region are actually produced in a myriad of styles, including aged rose that spends time in oak and sparkling. And yes, Provence also produces red & white wines. We tend to think of Provence as a monolith but the region actually has three wine appellations that produce very distinctive styles of wine: Côtes de Provence, Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence, and Coteaux Varois en Provence. 

Visiting every winery in Provence would be an enjoyable feat of endurance but nearly impossible for most of us. But La Maison des Vins Côtes de Provence makes it easy to taste wines from almost every winery in the region. The boutique features 800 Provençal wines and they host informative tastings and workshops. During my visit, sommelier David Hospital mapped out the Côtes de Provence winemaking region. I always say that wine makes geography much more interesting! 

Côtes de Provence is the largest and most famous of Provence's wine appellations and produces more than 70% of the AOC's wines. Rosé accounts for 90% of Côtes de Provence wines. Spanning more than 20,000 hectares, the terroir of Côtes de Provence is so diverse that it is further divided into 4 terroir designations: Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire, Côtes de Provence Fréjus, Côtes de Provence La Londe, and Côtes de Provence Pierrefeu. Don't get overwhelmed by the names, just remember that these designations indicate that the wines have a certain typicity because of shared terroir and climate. 

 Ooh la la, Saint-Tropez. I discovered that you don't need a yacht to feel like a high roller in this glitzy fishing village. The affordable ferry ride is pretty fantastic. 

I love rosé year-round but there's no denying that the wine has a special allure in the warmer months. As rosé season kicks into high gear and a delightful cloud of pink descends upon us, it is important to remember the people behind the wine. Rosé may seem easy breezy but it takes skill and dedication to make quality rosé. As I look back on my trip, the only thing more captivating than the beauty of Provence's landscapes and mouthwatering food & wine, were the people that I met. Generous with their time and wine, it became clear to me people in Provence have mastered the art of living well. 

Magali Combard is cool, there's no doubt about it. After visiting her family's Domaine Figuière winery, I'm convinced that Magali's charisma and can-do attitude energize the vineyards and everyone she encounters. No stranger to taking on a new challenge, in 2004 Magali left her life in Paris to join the family winery in Provence as the sales and marketing manager. During our tasting, every few minutes Magali would pop up from the table to bring another wine for us to try. Each beautifully crafted wine told the story of the Combard family's commitment to each other and to making wines that authentically express their land.

image courtesy of Domaine Figuiére

Located between Toulon and Saint-Tropez, Figuière is just one kilometer from the sea and they describe their estate as "a paradise where the land meets the sea." Although it is located in one of the sunniest places in France, Magali credits the sea breezes for regulating the heat so that their grapes are balanced and healthy. The soil is another important factor and the terroir of Figuière is mostly schist rock that imbues the wines with a tangible minerality. And even before most people were thinking about organic wine, Figuiére has grown their grapes organically since 1979. Their 210 acre vineyard is home to Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Vermentino (aka Rolle) and other varieties typical of Provence. 

Figuière has an impressive and diverse portfolio that includes rosé, white, red, and sparkling. One of the standouts is Magali Signature Rosé ($25.99), a supple, vibrant, and full-bodied blend of Cabernet, Syrah, Cinsault, and Grenache. Magali said her namesake wine is Figuière's top-selling wine in the USA.  

Jean-François Ott, Co-Director of Domaines Ott, at their Clos Mireille estate. 

Founded in 1912 by Marcel Ott, Domaines Ott is one of Provence's most iconic wineries. Their wines have had a presence abroad for decades and Ott began shipping rosé to our shores in 1938! Hmmm, perhaps Ott should be credited for quietly starting the rosé revolution?

Vintage Domaines Ott bottles

Today, cousins Jean-François Ott and Christian Ott carry on this family legacy as co-directors of their three estates. During my visit, I had the chance to tour Ott's stunning seaside estate, Clos Mireille, with Jean-François. The Mediterranean breezes and soils composed of schist and clay add impressive character to the grapes grown on their 124 acres of vineyards. Jean-François said that he wants the wines to "preserve the flavor of the terroir and the taste of the grape". They do. 

The Ott portfolio eloquently expresses the range of rosé from Provence. To get started, I recomend their Domaines Ott Clos Mireille Côtes de Provence Rosé ($52). A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and Rolle; it beautifully captures the Mediterranean soul of the estate. The price may seem hefty for a rosé but Clos Mireille shows that rosé can rise to level of fine wine and merits a price that reflects the quality of the winemaking.  


Domaine Saint Andrieu winemaker Grégory Guibergia. We didn't speak the same language but still shared plenty of laughs while sipping his superb wines. 

Should you ever hear that I've run off to Provence and care to come looking for me, Domaine Saint Andrieu is one of the places you should check. Located at the base of Bessillon Mountain, to reach Domaine Saint Andrieu you drive through the picturesque organic town of Correns and ascend up, up, up a rustic road. You may be greeted by some adorable goats as you climb and once you reach the top, paradise awaits -- the château of your dreams and wonderful wine.

Domaine Saint Andrieu produces red, white, and rosé wines from traditional Provençal varieties. Their superb Saint Andrieu Côtes de Provence Rosé ($20) is a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah. Fresh and full-bodied, it is a perfect match for the vibrant flavors of the season. These wines are meant for sharing with friends over a beautiful meal.

My time at Domaine Saint Andrieu reminded me of the power of good wine and food to bring people together. Sitting in the sultry Provençal sun and lunching on a simple but lovingly prepared meal, I was thousands of miles from Manhattan but I felt at home.



Throughout the spring and summer, I'll be sharing more information about the rosé, red, and white wines of Provence and the charming people that I met along the way. Cheers! 

Paso Robles Is Your Next Great Wine Getaway!

image courtesy of Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance

I was determined to write my wine story about Paso Robles without mentioning their famous neighbor to the north, Napa Valley. As you can see, I failed in the first sentence. When talking about California wines, it's almost impossible, and perhaps unforgivable, not to recognize Napa's contributions to elevating the quality and reputation of American wines around the world. The story of modern-day California winemaking may indeed start with Napa, but Paso Robles is not only adding some exciting new chapters, it stands on its own as a world-class wine region.

The positive buzz from wine writers and sommeliers started as a whisper but it has grown into a joyful noise and I've noticed more wines from Paso Robles on restaurant lists and in shops. Where there's wine buzz, I happily follow, so I recently accepted a generous invitation from the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance to explore the region, meet winemakers, and taste plenty of fascinating wines.

Meet Clarabelle The Wine Cow, the grape loving mascot of the Paso Robles Inn. 

Paso Robles has plenty of small town charm. Downtown, you'll find spacious and well-appointed accommodations at the Paso Robles Inn, quaint shops, and fantastic restaurants; it is a great home base for venturing out to the nearby rural areas where the vineyards are located. Non-drivers like myself have several options for transportation, including The Wine Line -- a well-managed and friendly hop-on, hop-off van fleet that services the wineries.

Jason Westfall, the friendly and efficient owner of The Wine Line.

There's a bit of a Wild West attitude to Paso Robles, the winemakers that I met didn't seem encumbered to do things a certain way or follow convention. If anything, being unconventional is the norm in Paso Robles. Break the rules but make good wine seems to be the unofficial mantra of the region. The experimental nature of the winemakers combined with Paso Robles's ideal grape growing conditions, lead to some pretty exciting wines. 

Located along California's breathtaking Central Coast, Paso Robles is equidistant from Los Angeles and San Francisco. The region is actually divided into 11unique AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) that recognize the diversity of terroir, soil, and micro-climates. Paso Robles benefits from a long growing season of warm days and cool evenings that are perfect for growing ripe, beautifully balanced, and expressive grapes. And so many grapes! Yes, you'll find Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Zinfandel in Paso Robles but the abundance of different wine grapes that thrive in the area is astounding -- more than 40,000 acres planted with 40 different varieties. Syrah, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Grenache, Pinot Noir, and more all have a presence in Paso Robles. I was impressed at how beautifully these international grapes express themselves in Paso Robles. 

Steve Gleason, founder of Four Lanterns Winery. Long before they opened their winery in 2014, Steve and his wife Jackie were long time visitors to Paso Robles and fans of the wines. Located on the west side of Paso Robles in the Willow Creek AVA, Four Lanterns specializes in Rhône and Bordeaux varietal wines. 

But no matter how great the grapes are, wine doesn't make itself. And more often than not, great winemaking is a group effort. Yes, a winemaker will have a vision but it takes the support of others to bring that dream to fruition. Camaraderie and community are words that I heard consistently when speaking with Paso Robles winemakers. Steve Gleason, founder of Four Lanterns winery, said, "It is a great community to be a winemaker in. Everyone is very willing to help and is very open. The better Paso does, the better we all do." 

Home to more than 200 wineries, it was impossible to visit each winery in Paso Robles during my visit. But I did get a great feel for the region and there really is a Paso Robles wine for every palate and budget. Here are a few suggested wines to look for in your hometown. All of the places listed welcome visitors. If you're looking for an easygoing, unpretentious, and high quality wine adventure, Paso Robles is the place for you. 

Four Lanterns Lamplight Viognier 2016 ($29) has crisp minerality and juicy stone fruit flavors. A great example of how international grapes can thrive in Paso Robles. 

Once home to a working horse ranch, Rava Wines is a 505 acre boutique vineyard in the heart of Paso Robles. Rava specializes in the production of traditional method sparkling wines. Their sparkling Grüner Veltliner 2016 ($32) is an elegant example of the innovative essence of Paso Robles. Indigenous to Austria, Grüner Veltliner is a vibrant and zippy grape. Rava's sparkling interpretation is crisp and delicate with beautiful flavors of green apple and pear. And if you're looking for a beautiful place to host a wedding or other special event, consider Rava's gorgeous grounds, event spaces, and guest house. 


Thacher Blanc de Blanc Sparkling Wine 2013 ($60) was an incredibly delicious surprise. 100% Viognier, produced in the traditional champagne method, it epitomizes creative and precise winemaking. 9 months on the lees and 36 months en tirage, it is complex yet fresh and flirty with vibrant citrus and stone fruit flavors with a touch of brioche.

Winemaker Sherman Thacher had a previous career as an award-winning brewmaster. In 2006 he and his wife Michelle moved to Paso Robles and opened their winery and tasting room in 2008. 

Terry and Jennifer Hoage, winemakers & owners of TH Estate Wines. 

From the gridiron to the vineyard! In 2002, former professional football player Terry Hoage and his wife Jennifer embarked on their Paso Robles winemaking adventure by purchasing a 26-acre vineyard on the west side of Paso Robles in the Willow Creek District. Jennifer describes their devotion to winemaking as a true labor of love. They built the winery from the ground up, their first plantings were Syrah, and in the early days they actually stomped grapes with their feet. The feet stomping may be a thing of the past but from the vineyard to the cellar and tasting room, the Hoages are still very hands on. They produce primarily Rhône style wines on their sustainably farmed estate. In addition to Syrah, they grow and produce wines with Grenache, Mourvèdre, Grenache Blanc, Picpoul Blanc, and Roussanne.  

The Reserve Tasting Flight, a seated tasting in their private tasing room, is a great introduction to the TH Estate Wines style. The 2015 Three-Four Syrah ($88) was a stand-out. A block-designate wine from a specific vineyard, the name was inspired by the spacing of the vines and Terry's jersey throughout most of his professional football career. A rich and zesty Syrah but not too peppery, this superb wine has tight tannins and beautiful dark berry flavors. 

The word iconic is grossly overused but the Hearst name is one of the few that lives up to the hype. Titans of industry, the Hearst family empire is well-known for their vast holdings in mining and media, but I had no idea that a member of the family was involved in the wine business. Not far from the famous Hearst Castle in San Simeon, the Hearst Ranch Winery project is a collaboration between Steve Hearst and Jim Saunders.

Hearst Ranch Winery vintner/owner Jim Saunders and winemaker Soren Christensen. 

I'll confess that I approached the Hearst wines with a bit of skepticism and wondered if the wines were just a marketing opportunity. I'm happy to report that I was wrong and these wines live up to the winery's motto "a legacy of quality." Their portfolio is quite extensive but to get started I recommend their superb 2016 Three Sisters Cuvée ($24). A rich and balanced blend of Syrah, Grenache, Petite Syrah, and Mourvèdre; this luscious red is juicy with a kiss of spice. 

If you're traveling to Paso Robles with a group of friends, Opolo rolls out the red carpet at their stunning property. The vibe is relaxed and festive but from the food to the service, every detail is meticulously executed. 

With some expert coaching and encouragement, I sabered my first bottle of bubbly at Opolo. Don't try this at home! 

The Opolo portfolio includes creative and elegant wines like this charming 2016 Montagna Mare ($28). An unexpected blend of Barbera and Sangiovese, I was astounded at how well these Italian grapes adapt to the Paso Robles terroir. Silky and rich, this is a beautifully balanced wine that puts a Paso Robles twist on these old country grapes. 

With world class wines, down-to-earth winemakers, great food, and beautiful scenery; Paso Robles is a winning wine getaway. No attitude, no snobbery; just a community of people working together to make the very best wine in their unique Paso Robles way. And no matter where you are, you can take your palate on a Paso Robles adventure. Give Paso Robles wines a swirl, you won't be disappointed. 

The Prisoner Wine Company Boldly Breaks Free With An Edgy & Immersive Wine Tasting Experience

With their striking labels and unconventional wines, The Prisoner Wine Company has always prided itself on being different. Now they finally have a tasting room experience that matches their provocative spirit. Located on Napa Valley's Highway 29, The Prisoner Wine Company recently debuted their new Tasting Lounge and Makery. The ambitious project was a collaboration between San Francisco architect Matt Hollis and Richard Von Saal, interior designer and Napa Valley native. Drawing inspiration from The Prisoner's bold personality and the Francisco Goya painting that graces their often-photographed label, the exterior and interior spaces are a vivid tapestry of textures, colors, and shapes.
The wine that started it all -- The Prisoner Red Blend 2017 ($49).

I was recently invited to visit The Prisoner Wine Company's new digs and they have truly created an immersive experience that stimulates the senses. The artwork and architectural details give your eyes plenty to feast on while you're sipping. Dramatically crowned with a vaulted ceiling, other intriguing design elements include reclaimed wood from the original Bay Bridge and a diesel tank reimagined as a custom chandelier. The outdoor courtyard has living walls of plants and a wood-burning oven used to prepare select items for the wine pairing experiences. The property also has a garden that grows herbs and produce used in dishes served at the winery.

Unlike many tasting rooms where you just sidle up to a bar and stand while tasting a flight of wines, The Prisoner pulls you completely into their world. There's no need to uncomfortably rush your wine tasting experience, The Prisoner Wine Company's bespoke chairs and sofas beckon you to sit down and stay awhile. 

The Makery

The Prisoner lets the sunshine in via an 8-feet wide by 57-feet long skylight over my favorite space on the property, The Makery. Thoughtfully designed and outfitted in a way that elegantly balances impressive contemporary design with a non-intimidating comfortable vibe, The Makery celebrates craft and community by providing space for an evolving cadre of artisans, designers, and creators to display and vend their wares -- the unifying thread is that like The Prisoner Wine Company, these makers have a passion for innovation.


Go ahead and call me greedy, but I believe the open kitchen is one of the key attributes that distinguishes The Makery as the heart of the property. Watching the perfect choreography of Executive Chef Brett Young and his team as they glide in their gleaming new kitchen is a sight to behold.

Chevrè Agnolotti (Tahitian Squash, Chanterelle Mushroom, Smoked Egg Yolk) paired with The Prisoner Red Blend.

Melt-in-your mouth A5 Wagyu Beef Rib Eye cooked lightning fast over a 900 degree stone, paired with limited-release Headlock 2016 ($60), a captivating blend of Charbono from Calistoga, Petite Sirah from Lake County, and Syrah from Oak Knoll.

The food coming from the kitchen is truly exceptional. Creative, flavorful, and matched to perfection with The Prisoner's wines; Chef Young's menu features locally sourced ingredients, and some specialty items from afar, in a stellar fashion.

“We’re excited to have a home for visitors to experience The Prisoner Wine Company, whose very reason for being is to create thought-provoking and bold wines. Part of the fun for me has been blending lesser-known, hard-to-find grapes together to create new wines to be shared exclusively at the winery.” - Chrissy Wittmann, Director of Winemaking

So what about the wines? After all, that's the raison d'etre of The Prisoner Wine Company. You'd be hard-pressed to find a wine drinker that isn't familiar with their luxury red blend -- it was The Prisoner bottle with the Goya artwork and unusual blend of Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Syrah, and Charbono that put The Prisoner Wine Company on the map nearly two decades ago.

Blindfold 2016 ($32) cleverly blends Chardonnay with Roussanne, Viognier, Chenin Blanc, Muscat, and Vermentino.

As famous as THAT bottle is, on my visit I discovered that The Prisoner Wine Company's portfolio includes an impressive selection of red, white, and rosé wines, each with an interesting back story and striking look. While many are available across the country, some are exclusive to the winery. Winemaker Chrissy Wittmann said that making wine at this level "is not an easy job by any means but I didn't sign up because it was going to be easy." That refusal to take the easy path seems to be the force that fuels The Prisoner Wine Company in winemaking, architecture, design, dining, and more. 

If your travels take you to Napa, a visit to The Prisoner Wine Company's sensational, shiny, and new space is certainly worth your time. Tasting experiences start at $45 per person and reservations are required. Click here for more details and to book your visit. 

The Wine Next Door: A Manhattanite Discovers the Beauty of Finger Lakes Wines

 

Every so often this native Manhattanite needs to be reminded that there's more to New York than my little island. The five boroughs that form the Big Apple may get a disproportionate share of the glory but the Empire State is a sprawling and multi-faceted tapestry. Home to concrete jungles and Mother Nature's majestic masterpieces, New York State has it all, including acres of vineyards and a vibrant wine industry. And the Finger Lakes is one of New York's most exciting wine regions. From indigenous grapes to varieties from far-flung corners of the globe, winemakers and grape growers from the Finger Lakes have earned critical acclaim for their creativity and commitment to quality.

Spread like fingers across central New York, a Native American legend attributes the creation of the Finger Lakes to a divine architect: "The Creator looked upon this land with special favor and reached down to bless it, leaving the imprint of His hand, hence, the Finger Lakes." Geologically speaking, the 11 Finger Lakes were formed as the last ice age ended and enormous holes were left behind by the receding glaciers. Finger Lakes wine country is centered around four main lakes with Native American names: Canandaigua (“The Chosen Spot” or “The Chosen Place”), Keuka (“Canoe Landing” or “Crooked Lake”), Seneca (“Place of the Stone”), and Cayuga (“Boat Landing”). 

There is no shortage of breathtaking lake views in the Finger Lakes region but these water sources aren't just eye candy -  they play an important role in moderating the climate of the vineyards - "cooling in the summer, warming in the winter, and sheltering the vines from temperature extremes" according to the New York Wine & Grape Foundation. The region's natural resources combined with talented winemakers make a formidable alliance. 


I'm definitely guilty of having treated wines from the Finger Lakes like the cute boy next door that I never really paid attention to. Surely, a wine from my own neck of the woods couldn't be as exciting as those from lauded old world regions and trendy new world locations abroad? My recent (and first) visit to the Finger Lakes proved me absolutely wrong. The wines next door are pretty intriguing. From multi-generational family owned wineries with deep roots in the region's viticultural history to more recent immigrants and transplants, the Finger Lakes has about 140 wineries and tasting rooms, each with a unique story.

Fred Frank and his daughter Meaghan represent the 3rd and 4th generations of the world-renowned and family-owned Dr. Konstantin Frank winery.

It isn't an overstatement to say that Dr. Konstantin Frank revolutionized winemaking and ignited the "Vinifera Revolution" in the Finger Lakes. Armed with a Ph.D in viticulture and an innovative mind, Dr. Frank immigrated to the United States from Europe in 1951. Naysayers told him that the region's cold climate made it impossible to cultivate Vitis Vinifera varieties from Europe but Dr. Frank proved them wrong. His pioneering technique of grafting Vitis Vinifera onto native root stock created healthy grapevines and set into the motion the Finger Lakes' destiny as an acclaimed wine region. Cool-climate grapes, such as Riesling and Pinot Noir, do exceptionally well in the Finger Lakes but Dr. Frank's successful early experiments with 60 different varieties provided a blueprint for the diversity of vinifera grapes grown in the region. In 1962, Dr. Frank founded Vinifera Wine Cellars and his descendants continue his legacy of innovation and quality. 



Dr. Konstantin Frank Blanc de Blancs (2013 vintage is available for $29.99)
Few things make me as happy as being greeted with a beautiful glass of bubbly so I knew my visit to Dr. Konstantin Frank was off to a great start! 100% Chardonnay and crafted in the traditional Champagne method, their Blanc de Blancs is fresh and crisp with vibrant flavors of green apple, white pear, chamomile, citrus, and yeasty brioche. Bottle aged on the lees for at least 4 years, it also has a hint of creaminess. An elegant wine that expresses the purity of the Chardonnay grapes and artful winemaking, I dare any Champagne snob to challenge the complexity and beauty of this wine! (I also recommend their 100% Pinot Noir sparkling brut rosé, $34.99, that is pictured at the top of this article.) 



During my visit to the Finger Lakes, I encountered many wines that I had never tasted before and Dr. Konstantin Frank Amber Rkatsiteli 2016 ($34.99) was one of the most intriguing. Thousands of years old, Rkatsiteli (pronounced er-ka-tsee-tely) hails from the Republic of Georgia and is one of the oldest known varieties. Found mainly in cool climate regions of Eastern Europe, it also grows beautifully in the Finger Lakes. Crafted to be reminiscent of the Rkatsiteli wines found in Eastern Europe, this charming expression from Dr. Frank is a medium-bodied dry wine with lively acidity, tangible minerality, and flavors of sweet basil, grapefruit and honeysuckle with hints of warm clove. 


Red Tail Ridge winemaker Nancy Irelan and her winegrower husband Mike Schnelle are relatively new to the Finger Lakes but have made a big impression. In 2004, they used their life savings to purchase their property on the western shore of Seneca Lake and essentially built their winery from the ground-up. New to the area but a veteran of the wine industry, Nancy left behind her position of Vice President of Viticulture and Enology R&D for a large corporate winery (Gallo) in California to pursue her own winemaking vision in the Finger Lakes. The name Red Tail Ridge pays homage to the pair of hawks that live in the woods surrounding the vineyard. Specializing in limited-production wines, experimentation is an essential part of Red Tail's Ridge's identity. In addition to well-known cool-climate grapes like Riesling and Pinot Noir, Red Tail Ridge also produces obscure varieties like Teroldego. Committed to responsible environmental practices, Red Tail Ridge runs on geothermal energy and implements many other strategies that earned it the distinction of being New York State's first LEED Gold Certified winery. 


Can't choose between Riesling and bubbly? Red Tail Ridge Sekt, Sparkling Riesling Extra Brut 2012 ($29.95) beautifully combines the best of both worlds. Produced in the traditional Champagne method, this charming wine is delicate but distinctive with excellent balance between chalky minerality, lively acidity, and vibrant citrus & stone fruit flavors. 


Who knew that a relatively obscure red grape from northern Italy would be a perfect match for the terroir and climate of the Finger Lakes? Nancy Irelan did! Red Tail Ridge Teroldego 2015 ($39.95) does right by this gorgeous grape. Different but absolutely approachable, it has rustic but pretty flavors of ripe dark fruit with tinges of herbs and tobacco. Great structure and acidity hint at good aging potential.  



Born into a family of farmers and winemakers, Johannes Reinhardt traveled far from his native Germany to forge his own identity as a winemaker. Wine was always a part of Johannes's life but in the Finger Lakes he was able to fulfill his dream of owning his very own small boutique winery. In 2013, Johannes and his wife Imelda opened the doors to their Kemmeter Wines tasting room. Combining his hands-on experience and formal training, Johannes makes wines that are precise and soulful.

In a world full of rosé wines, Kemmeter Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir 2017 ($22) is a welcome addition. Fresh and pure flavors of strawberry, cherry, and watermelon are balanced by a dry finish. 



Kemmeter SanSan Riesling 2016 ($35) comes with a heartwarming dedication on the back of the bottle -  "SanSan is the Chinese name for the greatest blessing in my life - my wife Imelda." The eye-catching label also hints at another of the winemaker's passions - music. A portion of Johannes's favorite Bach piece, the Third Orchestral Suite, appears on the bottle. The back label cleverly incorporates a musical scale to designate the sweetness of this elegant off-dry Riesling.


When Mel Goldman was in Nepal working with the Peace Corps he probably never imagined that one day he would own a vineyard in upstate New York. After an impressive career working in industrial and agricultural development in developing countries, in 1997 Mel and his wife Dorothee moved to the Finger Lakes and officially started Keuka Lake Vineyards. In the beginning, Mel focused on selling his grapes but inspired by the excellent quality of the Riesling his vines produced, he immersed himself in the art and science of winemaking. After a few test batches for family and friends, Keuka Lake Vineyards produced their first vintage in 2005 with a bit of guidance from a more seasoned winemaker in the region. Winemaking duties are now the domain of Finger Lakes native Staci Nugent. Staci was away on the day of my visit but her credentials (Masters degree in Viticulture and Enology from the University of California at Davis) and stellar wines speak for themselves. I'm not the only one who thinks so -- Keuka Lake Vineyards wines are available in many of New York's most acclaimed restaurants, including Eleven Madison Park, Gramercy Tavern, and Blue Hill at Stone Barns. 



Keuka Lake Vineyards Upper Eastside Dry Riesling 2017 ($30) is a single vineyard sensation from their 20 Rows Vineyard on the east side of Keuka Lake. Beautifully showing what happens when pristine grapes meet meticulous winemaking, it is crisp and vibrant with fresh citrus flavors. Dry but not austere, the fruit shines through. 

Keuka Lake Vineyards Vignoles 2015, Gently Dry ($14) is a wonderful introduction to this relatively obscure grape. A French hybrid grape also known as Ravat 51 in honor of its breeder J.F. Ravat, Vignoles is a cross between Seibel 6905 and Pinot de Corton. Vignoles never really caught on in France but it is produced by several Finger Lakes winemakers. Quite aromatic, Vignoles is known for its citrusy flavors and lively acidity. 

Everyone should be drinking more Cabernet Franc and Keuka Lake's is quite delicious. Light and graceful with pretty flavors of ripe raspberry. 2017 vintage is available for $22. 



The impact of the Finger Lakes goes far beyond New York state. Oskar Bynke, co-owner of Standing Stone Vineyards and the historic Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard, owns a vine nursery that supplies quality grafted grape vines to California and other major wine regions. Their selection includes Riesling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gamay, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, and more. 


image courtesy of the Inn at Glenora Wine Cellars

If you're looking for an authentic and top-notch wine getaway, the Finger Lakes won't disappoint. The region has a diverse selection of accommodations, including the rustic yet chic Inn at Glenora Wine Cellars -- my home base during my visit. The rooms are well-appointed and boast priceless views of Seneca Lake.

My first visit to the Finger Lakes certainly won't be my last. I was impressed and inspired by the excellent wines, stunning landscapes, and hard-working winemakers and winery owners that have committed tremendous time and resources into creating a world-class wine destination that defies expectations. I may live in the Big Apple but I thank the Finger Lakes for reminding me that New York state is wine country!

Thank you to the New York Wine & Grape Foundation for inviting to me participate in this sponsored trip. All opinions expressed in this article are my own.

The Authentic Allure of Alentejo: Portuguese Wines with Heart & History

Blame it on Alentejo. I'm no daredevil but somehow found myself soaring in a hot air balloon, gliding above the Portuguese countryside and hovering a little too long over one of Europe's largest man-made lakes. Invigorating yet serene, retro yet innovative, that sky-high adventure encapsulates the feeling of my entire Alentejo experience.

Hugo Domingos, hot air balloon pilot and proprietor of Emotion Portugal, made my first ever balloon ride one to remember. 

Once safely on the ground, our capable and charming pilot celebrated the moment by popping the cork on a bottle of local wine. (Speaking of cork, Alentejo is home to about one-third of the world's cork tree forests.) Whether toasting an adventure or simply enjoying a meal with family and friends, wine is an integral part of life in Alentejo. 
 

A treasure trove for wine lovers and those seeking the bucolic beauty of wide-open country spaces where people are outnumbered by cork trees, sheep, and possibly pigs; the Alentejo region is just a 90-minute drive inland from the capital of Lisbon. Alentejo means Beyond the Tejo because it is located south of the Tejo River that cuts across Portugal.

António Rocha is preserving the ancient art of hand crafting the large clay vessels that are an integral part of Alentejo's winemaking heritage. A single Talha de Barro (amphora) can be as large as seven feet in height, hold up to 520 gallons of wine, and weigh 2,000 pounds! Outside of the nation of Georgia, Alentejo is the only place in the world where this ancient method of winemaking has never ceased. It co-exists in Alentejo alongside more modern winemaking techniques.  

Formerly part of a Roman province called Lusitania, Alentejo is the only region in Portugal that still practices the Roman technique of making & storing wines in large clay vessels known as amphorae (Talhas de Barro in Portuguese). Passionate about tradition but open to innovation, Alentejo's winemakers create authentic and appealing wines from indigenous and international grapes. 

image courtesy of Wines of Alentejo

With more than 250 indigenous grape varieties, Portugal has the highest density of native grapes per square mile of any country in the world. For those of us that don't speak Portuguese, the names may be a bit tricky but the rich and expressive flavors have universal appeal. The key red wine grapes cultivated in Alentejo include Alicante Bouschet, Castelão, Touriga Nacional, and Trincadeira. White wines represent only one-fifth of Alentejo's production but grapes like Antão Vaz and Arinto create wonderfully expressive wines. Visit the Wines of Alentejo website to learn more about the unique qualities and flavor profiles of each grape. 

image courtesy of Wines of Alentejo

Wines from Portugal are becoming increasingly popular abroad and Alentejo in particular is gaining acclaim for well-crafted and accessibly priced wines. Alentejo's mix of ancient and modern winemaking techniques, commitment to sustainability, and unique grape varieties make it hard to resist. It is also an increasingly popular, but not overwhelmed, tourist destination with a well-defined wine route. If a trip to Alentejo is not in your immediate future, take your tastebuds on a journey with their wonderful wines. Start your Alentejo winetasting adventure with wines from two of the region's best known wineries: Herdade do Rocim and Herdade do Esporão. 

Herdade do Rocim 


The words of Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa inspire the winemaking team at Herdade do Rocim: "God wishes, Man dreams, the Work is born." Located in the Lower Alentejo, Herdade do Rocim is committed to crafting wines that respect the nature and culture of their region. A modern winery that blends harmoniously with the landscape, Herdade do Rocim embraces modern techniques but also pays homage to tradition and their portfolio includes wines produced in the traditional clay amphorae. 

Winemaker Vânia Guibarra José is a key member of the Herdade do Rocim winemaking team which is led by Pedro Ribeiro. 

During my visit to Herdade do Rocim, I had the pleasure of tasting wine with a key member of their winemaking team, Vânia Guibarra José. Vânia's family initially discouraged her because "they thought winemaking was for men" and they wanted her to be a doctor. Thankfully, Vânia pursued her passion and is now one of several talented and respected women winemakers that I met in Alentejo.



Herdade do Rocim Mariana Rosé 2017 ($11.99) is a charming blend of Touriga Nacional and Aragonez. Although named after a nun whose clandestine love affair led to a dramatically broken heart, Mariana is actually a very joyful wine. Provence pale, it has lively red fruit flavors, a silky texture, and vibrant acidity. If one had to select a national grape to represent Portugal, Touriga Nacional would certainly lead the pack. According to Wines of Alentejo, Touriga Nacional's "thick skin helps to obtain deep, dense colour - one of the variety's distinctive traits - but it is the abundance and depth of aromas that best identify its value. These may be floral, or fruity, or citrus but they are always intense and explosive, with an urbane, noble air." Aragonez is an absolutely Iberian grape and is known as Tempranillo in Spain. Generally a grape with low acidity, Aragonez is often blended with other varieties. 



A bottle of Herdade do Rocim Amphora Vinho Branco 2016 ($18) contains more than wine; it represents thousands of years of winemaking tradition because it was produced in the ancient style using the Talhas de Barro - large clay amphora. This blend of Antão Vaz, Perrum, Rabo de Ovelha, and Manteúdo was also fermented using indigenous yeasts. This minimally invasive winemaking technique produces wine with a unique texture and flavor profile. An appealing tapestry of mineral, flint, and nutty flavors. Herdade do Rocim also produces a red Amphora wine. 

Herdade do Rocim Vinho Regional Alentejano Touriga Nacional 2016 ($16) is a wonderful chance to sip Portugal's signature grape in a single varietal wine. A rich and supple wine with gorgeous flavors of violets, brambly blackberries, spice, and well-integrated tannins. 

Herdade do Esporão

Chances are that if you're already a fan of wines from Alentejo, you've sipped a vinho from Esporão - they are one of the region's most widely known and respected brands. Wine was first produced under the Esporão name in 1985 but the estate has a rich history -- its boundaries were first established in 1267 and have been unaltered since then. The site of many battles and intrigues during the Middle Ages, life is certainly less dangerous at Esporão these days and visitors can enjoy tastings, meals, carriage ride tours, and more. 


Herdade de Esporâo Reserva 2015 blends an all-star lineup of grapes: Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez, Trincadeira, and Cabernet Sauvignon. I first tasted the 2014 vintage ($24) of this wine and was blown away by its character and balance. The 2015 is just as captivating. Voluptuous but not unwieldy, it has rich dark berry flavors with savory hints of spice and herbs. 

Another captivating blend from Esporão is their Monte Velho 2017 ($10). A blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional, and Syrah, it is fresh and forthright with juicy berry flavors and a kiss of spice. 

Where to Wine, Dine and Relax in Alentejo

If you're looking for an off-the beaten-path place to vacation with wonderful food, wine, scenery and friendly people; Alentejo should be on your list. 



Stay: Country chic is no cliché at Herdade da Malhadinha Nova. A vast estate of vineyards and olive groves, at Malhadinha Nova nature and modern life co-exist harmoniously; cattle and Alentejo's famous black pigs roam the land while human guests unwind in simple luxury. 


Malhadinha Nova winemaker Nuno Gonzalez said that he is "trying to make the best wine possible, every year." Their vineyards are planted with the signature varieties of Alentejo in addition to international varieties.  


Malhadinha Nova resident chef Bruno Antunes prepares meals with ingredients that are primarily sourced from the estate, including their own olive oil and pork from the famous Black Pigs of Alentejo. Chef Antunes works closely with Michelin-starred consulting chef Joachim Koerper. 

Farm to table is a reality for meals at Malhadinha's restaurant and the cuisine is paired perfectly with their wines. The restaurant is actually located in the cellar building, which emphasizes the strong connection between food and wine. 


image courtesy of Herdade da Malhadinha Nova

The beautifully appointed and spacious rooms at Herdade da Malhadinha Nova are located in a traditional rural house that melds comfort with upscale elegance, including luxurious Bvlgari amenities in the bathroom and a combination of artisan and designer furnishings and fixtures. 


Temple of Diana, Roman ruins in Évora. 

Wine, Dine, Explore: The historic center of Évora, capital city of the Alentejo province, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With a history that dates back to Roman times, in the 15th century Évora was the residence of the Portuguese kings. 


One of Évora's many quaint streets lined with whitewashed buildings. As you wander, you'll also see beautiful wrought-iron balconies and the famous azulejos (tiles). 

Évora is extremely walkable and chock-full of charm and historic landmarks, including the Temple of Diana and the exquisite Royal Church of St. Francis and it's macabre, yet moving, Chapel of Bones. 


Manuel and his wife Carolina own the cozy culinary treasure, Tasquinha do Oliveira restaurant in Èvora. I was amazed at the quantity and excellent quality of the dishes that Carolina creates. She was hard at work in the kitchen when I snapped this photo of charming Manuel! 

After your stroll around Évora, try to snag a table at Tasquinha do Oliveira.  A tiny jewel box of a restaurant, with about 14 seats, it feels like you're in your favorite uncle and aunt's living room. Better yet, make a reservation before you fly to Portugal  - it is one of the most in-demand restaurants in Évora. Manuel manages the guests and Carolina handles the homestyle cooking which is a seemingly never-ending smorgasbord of traditional Alentejo cuisine and family recipes. The offerings include the beloved Bacalhau (salted cod fish), rabbit, the famous Black Pig, and many vegetable dishes. A signature of Alentejo cuisine is that many dishes are seasoned with coriander and vinegar. 



For a more modern dining experience, visit Cartuxa Enoteca. The menu showcases innovative interpretations of classic dishes and their winery's portfolio. Cartuxa has a very rich history in Alentejo, it is owned by a foundation that is very committed to the cultural, educational, and spiritual well-being of Èvora. The winery is located in the dining room of a former Jesuit house and offers tours and tastings.


Chef José Júlio Vintem, in action at Säo Lourenço do Borracal, is passionate about preserving the culinary traditions of Alentejo. 

Back in the countryside, Säo Lourenço do Borracal is a beautifully restored estate that has been in the same family for 200 years. In addition to producing their own wine, the estate has a large organic garden, cattle, and olive groves. The guest rooms include suites and cottages.


Chef Vintem with estate owner José António Uva - the 8th generation of his family to live at São Lourenço do Barrocal. 

Chef Vintem is one of Alentejo's most celebrated culinary stars and in the early mornings he can often be found foraging for herbs and mushrooms. He magically transforms the estate's abundant resources into flavorful and authentic cuisine. 



The best wine trips are never just about the wine but discovering how this revered beverage fits into the fabric of a culture. In Alentejo, wine has been produced since time immemorial and is respected and treasured. It is a part of the rhythm of life, from the city to the countryside. Alentejo's endless hectares of old-vine vineyards show the intimate relationship between humans and nature. From toil and tenacity, grapes are cultivated and transformed via science, intuition, and artistry into wine. Whether it is produced in the ancient style in a clay amphora or crafted using all the tools that modern technology has to offer, Alentejo winemakers are committed to making their wines, their way. The Alentejo way where tradition and innovation happily co-exist. Where indigenous varieties like Touriga Nacional are nurtured but international varieties are not excluded. Where the wines are an essential companion to their cuisine. 


Black dress, red wine. In the wine cellar at Malhadinha Nova. 

My visit to Alentejo reminded me that when you open a bottle of authentically made wine, that you are tapping into the life pulse of a culture. This was my first trip to Portugal. I don't speak the language and at times felt embarrassed at how little I knew about their history. But I was made to feel welcome. Whether soaring in the sky or strolling in the vineyards, Alentejo wraps itself around you, pours you a glass of wine, and welcomes you wholeheartedly. I don't pretend to be an expert on Alentejo but my life and wine education have certainly been enriched by the days I spent there. Until I can return, memories of Alentejo are only a sip away. 

Legacy & Luxury in Spain's Duero Valley: Abadía Retuerta Has Perfected the Elegant Wine Lifestyle

Enrique Valero absolutely loves his job. And who can blame him? As CEO of Abadía Retuerta Winery & Managing Director of LeDomaine, Enrique oversees an acclaimed winery, luxury hotel, spa, and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Without a doubt, his job is demanding but Enrique absolutely glows when he describes the many wonders of the estate's 1730 acres in the heart of Spain's Duero Valley. 

image courtesy of Abadía Retuerta

Not only committed to crafting exceptional wines, Abadía Retuerta also respects the tremendous cultural and architectural legacy of their estate. The property's luxury hotel, Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine, opened in 2012 after a meticulous restoration of the estate's 12th century medieval abbey. LeDomaine guests are surrounded by a compelling combination of traditional ambiance and modern amenities.

Spa Sommelier Service
image courtesy of Abadía Retuerta

For example, the abbey’s original dining hall, with a vaulted Gothic ceiling and a 17th-century fresco, is now a temple of haute cuisine and home to the estate's Michelin-starred restaurant, Refectorio. An old stable was elegantly transformed into the luxurious Santuario Wellness & Spa; where the innovative services include a Spa Sommelier that designs personalized treatments based on guest preferences in Abadiá Retuerta wines.  

Refectorio Restaurant is housed in the abbey's original dining hall and has one Michelin star. 
image courtesy of Abadía Retuerta

Devotion to the vine and winemaking is an integral part of this land's history and Abadía Retuerta follows in the footsteps of the medieval monks that preceded them. Their philosophy is based on winemaking by plot because the composition of the soil of each of Abadía Retuerta's 54 plots is different. From clay to gravel, sand to limestone, each plot is planted with only one grape variety, which has been carefully selected to extract the best qualities of the terroir. 


image courtesy of Abadía Retuerta

 Even if a trip to Spain is not in your immediate future, you can experience a bit of the magic of Abadía Retuerta with one of their beautifully made wines. 



Abadía Retuerta Selección Especial Sardon de Duero (around $29.99) is their best-known wine around the world and for very good reason! A blend of their best Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah grapes; it is a rich yet balanced vino with expressive fruit, herbal, and spice flavors. A beautiful introduction to the Abadía Retuerta style. 



Tempranillo is considered by many to be Spain's most noble grape and Abadía Retuerta Pago Negralada Tempranillo (around $95) is a single vineyard wine that beautifully captures the unique qualities of its terroir. These Tempranillo vines are planted in deep gravel soils intermixed with sand at the surface and produce wines described as having a "distinctive firm, tannic character". This seductive vino is silky and smooth with a rich tapestry of flavors: strawberry, licorice, herbs, and minerals. 



Abadía Retuerta Le Domaine Blanco de Guarda (around $40)
Hailing from a land of reds, this unique white wine has enough structure and complexity to age for years. Blanco de Guarda is Abadía Retuerta's first white wine and is quite impressive. Crafted from mostly Sauvignon Blanc with a kiss of Verdejo and other white varieties, it is an intriguing medley of flavors: citrus, floral, mineral, and spice. A substantial and textured wine that still retains crispness and freshness after several years. (I tasted the impressive 2012 but newer vintages are available.)

Click here to learn more about Abadía Retuerta, their full portfolio of wines, and how you can book your dream vacation at their luxury hotel. 

A Fairy Tale in Puglia: The Wines of Castello Monaci Capture the Imagination

 Castello Monaci's stunning-as-a-storybook estate is housed in a 16th century castle, with medieval foundations, once run by monks who maintained a long winemaking tradition. 
image courtesy of Castello Monaci and Frederick Wildman & Sons Importers

Growing up, I devoured all of the classic fairy tales and daydreamed about leaving behind the mean streets of Manhattan for a beautiful castle abroad. My grown-up daydreams are slightly more pragmatic but now they also include a vineyard! Maybe a castle of my own, with endless rows of grapevines, is still out of reach but a bottle of Castello Monaci wine transports me to their stunning 16th century castle in the Salento region of Puglia. Surrounded by 350 acres of vineyards, Castello Monaci not only attracts wine lovers but also couples looking to create their own fairytales --  it is one of southern Italy's most popular wedding
venues.  


image courtesy of Castello Monaci and Frederick Wildman & Sons Importers
Castello Monaci Brand Ambassador Luigi Seracca Guerrieri plays an important role in his family's winemaking legacy.

Every fairy tale requires a prince and I've assigned that role to Luigi Seracca Guerrieri, Brand Ambassador for Castello Monaci. To my knowledge, charming Luigi isn't technically royalty but his family has owned the estate since the 19th century. Trained as a lawyer, Luigi opted to follow his passion for wine and pursued formal training in viticulture to supplement the knowledge he had gained from a lifetime of assisting his father, Vitantonio, in the vineyards. 


Castello Monaci is one of the few estates in Puglia to be certified sustainable. The castle is also surrounded by 3,000 olive trees. 
image courtesy of Castello Monaci and Frederick Wildman & Sons Importers

Luigi was recently in NYC and we met over lunch to taste through the current vintages of Castello Monaci wines. Their red wines are crafted from the indigenous Puglian grapes Negroamaro, Primitivo, and Malvasia Nera. Although the vineyards are in the sunniest and southernmost part of Puglia, the vines benefit from the cooling maritime breezes of the Ionian and Adriatic seas. Red wines from Puglia often have a reputation for being too big and unwieldy, but Castello Monaci's location produces grapes that balance richness with freshness. The reds retain a classic Puglian boldness but are also impressively graceful and vibrant. White grapes, Verdeca and Fiano, are planted on their 150 acres near the Adriatic coast. 

Castelli Monaci "Acante" Fiano Salento 2016 ($16)
Fiano is closely associated with Italy's Campania region but Castello Monaci's expression shows that Puglia can produce a pretty compelling Fiano. Refreshing and crisp with vibrant fruit, minerality, and a hint of nuttiness that adds balance and nuance. 

Castello Monaci "Petraluce" Verdeca Salento 2017 ($15)
 Summertime is the perfect season for exploring new wines, so add Petraluce to your must-sip list! This was my first encounter with Puglia's indigenous Verdeca grape and it won't be the last. Glimmering in the glass like Puglian sunshine, the name Petraluce is inspired by the light-colored stones that dot the vineyard and reflect the sun. Fresh, fruity, and crisp with a hint of tropical fruits and soft splashes of salinity that evoke the sea; Petraluce and summer are a perfect pair. 

Castello Monaci "Kreos" Rosé Negroamaro Salento 2017 ($14) 
Darlings, we're not in Provence anymore -- this bright pink rosé with the Greek inspired name is absolutely Puglian! While many regions are imitating the pale pink hue of Provencal rosé wines, Kreos is unabashedly and authentically vivid. Negroamaro is a bold grape but this rosè shows off its more delicate side. Fun and fruity with fresh red berry flavors and a kiss of spice. 

Castello Monaci "Pilùna" Primitivo 2016 ($15)
Primitivo is Puglia's most famous indigenous grape and it can produce powerhouse wines with tremendous aging potential. Sultry and spicy, Pilùna is a young Primitivo that displays all of the grape's best qualities; rich & dark fruit, and peppery spice. Pilùna has minimal oak influence so it boasts an impressive freshness that really captures the essence of the grape and terroir.



Castello Monaci "Aiace" Salice Salentino Riserva DOC 2014 ($26)
Bold, velvety, and rich like the voice of Pavarotti, this voluptuous blend of mostly Negroamaro (80%) and Malvasia Nera (20%) is impeccably balanced. Fruit, earth, and spice in perfect harmony. 



Castello Monaci "Artas" Primitivo Salento 2015 ($39)
There's nothing shy about this come-hither red that beautifully unleashes the full power and complexity of Primitivo. Ripe and juicy but not jammy, Artas takes your palate on a journey of luscious dark fruit, peppery spice, licorice, and savory herbs.  With impressively taut tannins, vibrant acidity, and a dramatically long finish; this princely Primitivo will sweep you off your feet. 


image courtesy of Castello Monaci and Frederick Wildman & Sons Importers

If you're planning a trip to Puglia, Castello Monaci welcomes guests for tours and wine tastings. And if your daydreams include a fairytale wedding in Italy, they can make your wish come true! Visit their website for more information. 

Passionate Puglia: The Captivating People and Wines of Tenute Rubino

 

Luigi Rubino has a close connection to the vineyards of his family's winery, Tenute Rubino, in Puglia.

Life in sun-soaked Puglia moves at a sensual and soul-affirming pace. Located in the south of Italy, Puglia is often deemed "the heel of the boot" that describes Italy's topographical shape. Whether it is a sexy designer boot or a functional work shoe, let's not forget that it is the heel that provides strength and balance. Strength and balance also describe the superb Puglian wines of Tenute Rubino.

The Tenute Rubino dream team - winemaker Luca Petrelli and power couple Romina Leopardi & Luigi Rubino. 

Truly a family affair, the Tenute Rubino story began in the 1980's when Tommaso Rubino's belief in the Salento region of Puglia to produce exceptional wines led him on a journey that culminated in the acquisition of four estates. In 1999, Tommaso's vision became reality when his son Luigi, and Luigi's wife Romina Leopardi, started the Tenute Rubino brand. Headquartered in Brindisi, Tenute Rubino is not just respected locally but is a global brand that exports more than 70% of its 1.2 million bottles of wine abroad.

Tenute Rubino is a leader in producing quality wines from the native Puglian grapes Negroamaro, Primitivo, and Susumaniello. 

Grapes are expertly picked with care and accuracy during the Women's Harvest at Tenute Rubino's estate in Jaddico, on the shores of the Adriatic Sea. 

Yes, Tenute Rubino's production numbers are impressive but after spending time with Luigi and Romina, I was most captivated by their passion for producing exceptional wines from native Puglian grapes, commitment to honoring the culture and people of Puglia, and their loving and collaborative partnership. My September visit coincided with Tenute Rubino's 10th annual La Vendemmia delle Donne (Women's Harvest), a celebration of Puglia's rich winemaking tradition and the dynamic women of Tenute Rubino.


Tenute Rubino's Women's Harvest is a multi-generational celebration of Puglian culture and viticulture. 

On the day of the Women's Harvest, a team of professional women harvesters work together alongside novices to hand pick the Susumaniello grapes - a local and ancient Puglian red wine grape that is a star of the Tenute Rubino portfolio. After the harvest, the women are serenaded by musicians performing traditional Puglian songs and everyone gathers together to sing, dance, play games, eat local cuisine, and sip plenty of Tenute Rubino wines. I highly recommend adding a trip to Puglia and Tenute Rubino's Women's Harvest celebration to your travel wish list. Until then, let their widely available wines add a touch of sensual Puglian sunshine to your day, no matter where you are. 

Tenute Rubino "Giancóla" Malvasia Bianca 2016 ($12)
Produced from 100% Malvasia Bianca grapes, this elegant and aromatic white wine balances luscious ripe fruit flavors with vibrant acidity and a touch of minerality. A great match with seafood. 



Tenute Rubino "Saturnino" Negroamaro Rosato 2016 ($12)
Rosé all day the Puglian way with this charming rosato wine made from 100% Negroamaro grapes. One of Puglia's most important wine grapes, Negroamaro is renowned for producing big and complex full-bodied red wines. Saturnino shows off the softer side of Negroamaro in this intensely fruity rosé with flavors of fresh cherry and violets that are bolstered by lively acidity and tinges of minerality. Saturnino paired perfectly with this platter of local cured meats and cheeses from Tenute Rubino's charming waterfront enoteca in Brindisi, Numero Primo. 

Tenute Rubino "Marmorelle" Rosso ($18)
Mostly Negroamaro with a kiss of Malvasia Nera, this artful red wine beautifully intertwines deep rich fruit flavors with touches of spice and cocoa. A great match with meat and tomato-based pasta dishes. 



Tenute Rubino "Punta Aquila" ($17)
Of course, you can't talk about Puglian wine without discussing the region's most famous vino - big, spicy, and bold Primitivo. Sometimes Primitivo sacrifices finesse for power but Punta Aquila balances strength with grace. A wine with plenty of personality, Punta Aquila is an elegant tapestry of rich fruit, spice, and herbal flavors. 

Tenute Rubino "Torre Testa" Susumaniello 2013 ($45)
The melodically named Susumaniello was brand new to me but it is actually an ancient grape from the Brindisi region and Tenute Rubino is leading the way in introducing its charms to the world. Traditionally used as a blending grape, Tenute Rubino has proven that Susumaniello has what it takes to stand on its own. An intriguing melange of ripe fruit, savory spice, fine tannins, and robust acidity, Torre Testa opens up beautifully in the glass and displays tremendous aging potential - a really special wine. 


Even I joined in a bit of harvesting during La Vendemmia delle Donne! 

The best wines aren't just well-crafted but are the catalyst for an emotional response. From now on, any sip of a Tenute Rubino wine will transport me back to those beautiful sunny days in Puglia; dancing, singing, and living life to the fullest. Even if you've never visited Puglia, Tenute Rubino's beautiful wines evoke the passion of this very special place. 

 

Seduced by Somontano: My Unforgettable Wine Adventure in Spain

Even before I ever set foot in Spain, it was a part of my life. Growing up in multilingual New York City, the sound of Spanish was music to my ears and I would pretend to speak it. The large oil portrait of a handsome matador that hung in my grandmother's foyer fueled many pre-teen daydreams of meeting someone as guapo and dashing. So perhaps it isn't too surprising that I seized the opportunity to study in Barcelona for a year when I was 16. Emboldened by that experience, I found myself back in Spain at the age of 21, as a student in Toledo, where I supplemented my studies of literature and the arts with learning to party until the crack of dawn and still make it to class on time, fueled by churros & chocolate and the endless energy of youth. 

Given my lifelong love affair with the country of Picasso and Antonio Banderas, it may surprise you to hear that I had some trepidation when I recently received an invitation to visit Spain. More than 20 years had passed since I had last set foot in Spain. I was afraid that perhaps my memories had become idealized by the passage of time, I did not want anything to sully my precious recollections. But the allure of Somontano proved irresistible, and I found myself back in Spain after more than 2 decades, in a region that was completely unfamiliar to me. 


Somontano means "beneath the mountain" and the region is south of the Pyrenees on the natural border with France, in northeastern Spain in the province of Huesca in Aragón. A small region with a rich winemaking history, Somontano stands out not only for the quality of the wines and accessible prices but also for the amazing diversity. Not only will you find superb examples of well-known Spanish varieties like Tempranillo and Garnacha, but Somontano has gained a reputation for their finesse with international varieties such as Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Merlot. The dry climate, cold winters and hot summers, and diversity of soil types make Somontano an ideal location for the cultivation of many grape varieties. 

Somontano has been producing wine for centuries, but was declared a D.O. (Denominación de Origen/Denomination of Origen) in 1984. At this time, there are about 69 DO's in Spain and when you see DO on the label it indicates that the producers in the region abide by criteria established by the regulating council to ensure that the wines meet quality standards. During my visit to Somontano, I spent a significant amount of time with the DO administration and was impressed by their commitment and passion for their region's wines. There are about 32 wineries in the Somontano DO, 412 grape growers, and the region produces around 14 million bottles per year. Below are brief profiles of five Somontano wineries that I visited, each representing a different aspect of this wonderful region. (Prices are indicated for wines available in the United States, you'll have to book a ticket to Somontano to try the others!)

Winemaker José Ferrer of Viñas del Vero and Blecua. 

Somontano is Exceptional: Viñas del Vero and Blecua
If ever there was a winemaker whose wines mirror his personality, it is José Ferrer. Elegant and not flashy, precise but passionate, José crafts exceptional wines for the Gonzalez Byass owned Viñas del Vero and their high-end line of boutique wines, Blecua. Focused on crafting wines that express the terroir, their nuanced white La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha Blanca 2015 ($15) and the luscious & layered red La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha 2014 are great introductions to the wines of Somontano and José's talent.

Blecua 2009 is an artful blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Tempranillo, and Garnacha. A wine of great power and grace with superbly integrated fruit, oak, and spice flavors. 

But for a truly exceptional wine-drinking experience, Blecua is the vino that most poetically expresses the terroir and quality of Somontano. First produced in 1997 and only in the best vintages, José said "with Blecua the aim is to put the best of the region in the bottle." He has absolutely succeeded in this quest. 

Like an artist working with a palette, José approaches Blecua creatively and the red blend changes with each vintage. Blecua involves a triple selection process of choosing the best vineyard sites, best grape bunches, and the best barrels. Barrel selection is an integral part of the Blecua process and José experiments with aging the grapes in French and American oak with varying levels of char before making the final selection. The end result is a sophisticated wine with tremendous approachability and aging ability. Blecua wines are not yet available in the US but these superb vinos are worth a visit to Somontano! 

The Lalanne family has been producing wine in Somontano since 1894, making them the oldest winery in the region. 

Somontano is Traditional: Bodegas Lalanne
Tracing their winemaking heritage back to 1842 in Bordeaux, the Lalanne family's ancestors came to Somontano to escape the Phylloxera epidemic that had ravaged the vines in France. Truly a family business, Bodegas Lalanne has been managed by the family for six generations. Family patriarch, Fernando Lalanne, serves as vice president of the Somontano DO. His daughters have leadership roles in the winery and oversee winemaking, marketing, and other crucial functions. A visit to Lalanne is really a journey through the winemaking history of Somontano and their cellars include an amazing selection of old vintages and Spanish Civil War artifacts. 



Reflective of their Gallic roots, Lalanne's portfolio includes Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Chardonnay. And like their peers in Somontano, they also produce other international varieties like Gewürztraminer. Lalanne produces wines in a very classic style that conveys their heritage and terroir. Recommended wine: Lalanne Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot Reserva.  


Enate winemaker Jesús Artajona

Somontano is Elegant: Enate
Founded in 1992, Enate is a stunning modern estate that elegantly melds artistry with functionality. Even the Enate bottles are portable art pieces and are adorned with labels designed by well-known contemporary artists. But as a winery, the content of the bottles is what matters most and winemaker Jesús Artajona brings artistry and technical prowess to Enate. An environmentally-friendly winery, Enate grows Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Gewürztraminer.  

 Each Enate wine conveys a different aspect of Somontano winemaking but are linked by the purity of fruit, precise winemaking, and expressiveness of the terroir. To get started, I recommend their Chardonnay 234 2016 ($20) and Merlot-Merlot 2011(not a typo, it is such a quintessential and intense Merlot, they named it twice!)  

Somontano is Innovative: Bodega Sommos
Looming over the landscape like a gleaming intergalactic space station, the shiny interlaced steel and glass cubes that form the exterior of Bodega Sommos make it clear that something very different is happening at this expansive Somontano estate. A huge undertaking financially and logistically, construction of Sommos began in 2000 and was completed in 2008. The audacity and complexity of the endeavor has not gone unnoticed and The Drinks Business declared Sommos one of "The Top 10 Architectural Wonders of the Wine World." The striking exterior only hints at what lies beneath - the winemaking facilities at Sommos extend 27 meters underground (almost 90 feet). Innovation is the driving force at Sommos and the grapes, must, and wine are transported via gravity to limit damage and stress, pheremones are used in lieu of pesticides to control pests, harvests happen at night to avoid the heat, and their experimental vineyard has more than 70 different grape varieties. 

From playful & fresh to complex and aged, the Sommos portfolio is quite diverse. Recommended wines: Sommos Premium 2009 ($40), a big red blend of Tempranillo, Merlot, and Syrah and their refreshing Gewürztraminer 2016. 

 
Jesús Mur, Bodega Laus Winemaker

Somontano is Playful: Bodega Laus

Just across the road from Sommos, Bodega Laus is wooing a younger generation of wine lovers with their easy-drinking yet well-crafted wines. The clean lines of their estate's Zen-inspired architecture were designed to coexist with nature and optimize efficiency. Although their small portfolio of wines is being marketed towards younger consumers and not yet available in the US, the Laus wines offer a pure expression of the grapes that will appeal to all wine lovers. Winemaker Jesús Mur was born and raised in Somontano and grew up among vines, accompanying his wine-grower father on walks in the vineyards. These wines show his strong connection to the land. Recommended wines: Laus Rosado (Syrah & Garnacha) and Laus Tinto Crianza (Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon)

Visiting Somontano
If you love great wine & food, stunning natural landscapes, and an authentic Spanish experience; I highly recommend a visit to Somontano. The region is just a couple of hours by car from Zaragoza and Barcelona. Barbastro, the capital city of the Somontano region, is a bustling city with charming shops, bars, and restaurants. I recommend accommodations at the centrally-located and comfortably-appointed Hotel San Ramón. Barbastro is also the headquarters of the Somontano DO and they have recently opened a restaurant, tasting room, and wine shop - sip some wine and get some information about the Somontano Wine Route and The Wine Bus. The first weekend of August is the Somontano Wine Festival, a multi-day celebration of wine, food, and culture - a perfect opportunity to sip the wines that are not yet available in the United States.

And you can't visit Somontano without taking an excursion to Alquézar, a medieval village overlooking the Vero River, it is a stunning trip back in time.   



My visit to Somontano reminded me of why I fell in love with Spain all those years ago. Wine isn't just an industry in Somontano, it is a way of life that fosters a sense of community. Wine is to be shared with family and friends, it reaffirms bonds and creates an instant connection. I thank everyone in Somontano for sharing their wines, food, stories, smiles, and hugs. Words in Spanish that had been long buried in my brain, bubbled to the surface as I found myself completely immersed in the Somontano experience. I had never been to Somontano before but it felt like I had come back home.

 

120 Years Old and Absolutely Fabulous: Bodega Norton in Mendoza

Founded by an Englishman in 1895 and owned since 1989 by the Austrian family best known as the gatekeepers of the glittery Swarovski crystal empire, the wines of Bodega Norton are absolutely Argentine. In 2012, Bodega Norton's chief winemaker Jorge Riccitelli, a native of Mendoza, was recognized by Wine Enthusiast as "Winemaker of the Year" and made history as the first South American to receive this prestigious honor. One of the most important estates in Mendoza, at 120 years old Bodega Norton has an impressive past but their present and future is even brighter. 

It was such an honor to meet Bodega Norton's award-winning chief winemaker Jorge Riccitelli.

Any visit to Mendoza must include a visit to Norton - the estate is stunning and the wines are impressive. Their award-winning programs for visitors include guided tastings, bike tours, winemaker for the day, junior winemaker for the day for the little ones, cooking classes, harvesting, photographic safaris, and much more.



Upon arrival at Norton, guests are greeted with a refreshing glass of their sparkling white wine Cosecha Especial - a vivacious bubbly Chardonnay that is poured from a unique bell-shaped bottle.


Alvaro Agüero, sommelier at Bodega Norton and the Chief of Tourism Development, was my guide for the day. Alvaro's knowledge and enthusiasm made my visit immensely enjoyable - it was hard to say goodbye. He was a fountain of knowledge and kept the wine flowing!


A treasure trove of priceless bottles from a private room in the Bodega Norton cellar.

In addition to the gorgeous vineyards, the cellars of Bodega Norton are a world unto themselves. With winding halls and intimate nooks to sip your wine, it is a subterranean oasis.



If you're not familiar with Bodega Norton, Privada 2012 ($26) is a very special selection. Rated 93 points by Wine Spectator, Privada is a beautiful Bordeaux style blend of Malbec, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon that was once reserved for the Swarovski family's private cellar. I also recommend giving the 2012 Reserva Malbec ($18.99) a swirl - rated 90 points by Wine Spectator, it is expressive, earthy and elegant. 


For a truly gourmet food & wine experience, be sure to dine at Bodega Norton's restaurant La Vid. I ate many delicious empanadas during my visit to Mendoza but the ones at La Vid were the best by far.

Visit the Bodega Norton website to learn more about their wines and activities for guests. For more information on booking a trip to Mendoza, contact Aymará Turismo and Argen Marketing.

 

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Mendoza Memories: My Argentine Wine Adventure at Bodegas Salentein

 
For a wine lover, visiting the source of your affection brings the bottle to life and intensifies the tasting experience. Wines from Argentina have been among my favorites for years so I was delighted when Argen Marketing and Aymará Turismo invited me to visit Argentina and created an excellent itinerary that showcased several of the Mendoza region's finest winemakers. Argen Marketing and Aymara Turismo managed all of the details - all I had to do was arrive ready to sip and savor because Mendoza welcomes visitors with open arms and flowing vino. Over the next few weeks, I'll be sharing highlights from my wine tasting adventures in Mendoza but would like to begin with my amazing time at Bodegas Salentein.



Located in the Uco Valley against the breathtaking beauty of the Andes Mountains, Bodegas Salentein is the single biggest cool climate estate in Mendoza and boasts some of the highest vineyard elevations in the world. Led by the legendary winemaker José Galante, Bodegas Salentein is renowned for wines that elegantly express the grace and power of Argentina's signature Malbec grape. Bodegas Salentein's impressive portfolio also includes excellent Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc.


A Mendoza memory of a lifetime: tasting wine at Bodegas Salentein with José Galante - one of my favorite winemakers.

I was first introduced to José Galante and Bodegas Salentein at an event in New York City in 2014 and his wines instantly secured a place on my list of favorites. A  winemaker of extraordinary talent and humility, Galante is celebrating his 40th harvest this year and has been at Salentein for 10 years. Widely acknowledged as a trailblazer in Argentine winemaking, Galante remains humble and restless in his quest to make the finest wine possible. If you're planning a trip to Mendoza, a tour and tasting at Bodegas Salentein is a must - the architecture and landscape are absolutely stunning. Offering a truly engaging visitor experience, Bodegas Salentein has an art gallery, restaurant & wine bar, chapel, and offers overnight accommodations at Posada Salentein.

To get acquainted with the wines of Bodegas Salentein, I recommend their Malbec Reserve 2013 ($18.99) - it is a great introduction to the Salentein/Galante style: fresh and luscious fruit with vibrant acidity. One of my favorite blends from the Bodegas Salentein portfolio is Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley 2012 ($41). An intriguing and infinitely drinkable blend of mostly Malbec enhanced with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot; Numina showcases Galante's artistry and captures the unique essence of each grape to create a wine of great beauty. A sip of these wines is certain to inspire your own Argentine adventure.

Mendoza is quite a special and vibrant city - even the airport has a vineyard. Hotel options include boutique properties and global chains such as the Sheraton and Intercontinental. For more information on planning a trip to Mendoza, visit the Aymará Turismo website.

Stay tuned for more details on my wine adventure in Mendoza!

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Rome Food Diary

My whirlwind trip to Rome did not give me nearly enough time to sample all of the Eternal City's culinary treats but I certainly tried my best. Here are a few delicious highlights!

Casa Coppelle

What a pleasure to meet the tremendously talented Chef Fabio Rossi of Casa Coppelle!

When the charming and elegant Roman husband of one of your dearest friends gives you restaurant suggestions for his hometown, you listen! Thanks to his advice, I enjoyed an unforgettable meal at Casa Coppelle where Chef Fabio Rossi and his team create sophisticated and delicious Italian cuisine with a dash of French inspiration. Casa Coppelle's plush and beyond gorgeous dining room is the perfect backdrop for their stylish food and cocktails.



Creamy, cheesy, & peppery - the Cacio e Pepe Risotto with Shrimp at Casa Coppelle was so delicious that I was very tempted to order a second serving. Simply sublime!


Oh so tender and full of flavor, Casa Coppelle's Grilled Squid with Leek Puree was light and satisfying.

The ideal spot for a romantic meal, even I felt the love at Casa Coppelle and I was dining alone! I always enjoy treating myself to a fantastic meal in a beautiful setting and I give Casa Coppelle high marks for cuisine, ambiance, and service. I will definitely dine there again on my next trip to Roma!

Italy Food Nest

Fresh pressed pomegranate juice, the reddest & ripest tomatoes, juicy peaches, zucchini blossoms, and an abundance of seasonal produce - the markets in Rome are amazing! Thanks to Italy Food Nest, I was able to efficiently explore these gems of Rome's food scene with knowledgeable guides. Not only did I sample fantastic food, I saw different neighborhoods and learned a bit of history.

Eataly was one of the stops on my Italy Food Nest tour. This massive yet elegant market devoted to Italian gastronomy has everything you need to create an Italian feast. Eataly also has several informal restaurants. At lunch, I met the charming and gregarious Chef Massimo Pulicati - he is a guest chef at Eataly until the end of August and has his own restaurant in Rome - L'Oste della Bon 'Ora.


We finished up our afternoon at Eataly with a very refreshing iced coffee drink - the Shakerato. Made by shaking espresso with molto energy over ice cubes until it gets frothy, the Shakerato is delicious foamy goodness! From start to finish, my Italy Food Nest tour was absolutely enjoyable. On my next trip to Italy, I'll delve even further into Italian gastronomy and sign up for an Italy Food Nest cooking lesson.

Pizzarium



 Locals and visitors were wildly insistent that I couldn't leave Rome without visiting Pizzarium for a few slices of Gabriel Bonci's celebrated pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice). But this isn't a New York style slice - pizza al taglio is rectangular and you pay based on the weight of the slice that you request. Bonci is known for his incredible slow-leavened dough made from organic flour and premium quality creative toppings.I wish I could have tried them all, but I particularly enjoyed the potato pizza - it was very flavorful and incredibly airy for such a carb-centric creation. Be advised, there is really no seating here - just a few high tables where you can stand outside and a bench. Not far from the Vatican, Pizzarium is a great place to stop and refuel while you're out sightseeing.

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Sipping La Dolce Vita at La Selvanella: My Afternoon of Exquisite Chianti in Tuscany

When we reached the summit of the winding roller coaster of a road that transported us high above the Chianti region to the vineyards of La Selvanella, our determination was generously rewarded with breathtaking views of Tuscany and some truly exquisite wine. If only all roads led to Chianti!

My journey to Chianti actually began a few months ago when I had the pleasure of attending a tasting in NYC that showcased award-winning La Selvanella Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG. I fell head-over-heels in love with these wines. Each sip stoked a desire to visit Italy that had grown more intense over the years. Inspired by my Chianti courage, several weeks later I spontaneously booked a trip to Rome and Tuscany.

On top of the world! La Selvanella boasts some of the highest elevation vineyards in the Chianti region. I had the pleasure of enjoying the view with agronomist Marco Viciani, winemaker Alessandro Zanette, and external communications manager Lucia Migliorini.

When asked what makes La Selvanella so special, winemaker Alessandro Zanette passionately responded "authenticity, tradition, and modernity." Debuting in 1969, La Selvanella was the first single vineyard wine from Chianti. Also, La Selvanella is produced by Fattorie Melini. Founded in 1705,  Fattorie Melini has mastered the artistry of creating quality Chianti that beautifully expresses the personality and nuances of the Sangiovese grape. At Melini, modern winemaking techniques are employed to enhance, not eliminate, the traditional methods they've perfected over more than 300 years.

In addition to La Selvanella, Melini has an impressive and diverse portfolio of Chianti. Each vino has a unique personality but they share a wonderful vibrancy, balance, and fruit forwardness. I may not be able to dine al fresco in Tuscany everyday, but La Selvanella and all of the Melini wines make it easy to add a little Tuscan flair wherever you are. If you enjoy food-friendly, balanced, expressive red wines; give La Selvanella and Melini a swirl. These are wines to enjoy with delicious food and the company of friends. Salute!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Make Mine Malbec: Bodegas Salentein Wines from Argentina

  Bodega Salentein has the majestic Andes as their backdrop. Their Valle de Uco winery is Mendoza's single biggest cool climate estate.

Soft-spoken and humble, legendary winemaker José Galante prefers to let his wines do the talking and these beautiful vinos speak volumes. Known as the father of Argentine winemaking, Galante was a trailblazer in introducing the American palate to the wines of Argentina, especially Malbec. Galante led the Catena Zapata group for more than thirty years but in 2010 he made the move to Bodegas Salentein as their Chief Winemaker. Bodegas Salentein has pioneered premium winemaking in the Uco Valley and their wines win accolades around the globe. 

Tasting Bodegas Salentein wines alongside their winemaker, the legendary José Galante, was like attending a Malbec master class. An unforgettable experience!

Any conversation about Argentine wines is incomplete without discussing Malbec. This robust red grape may have its roots in France but it has flourished as the country's signature varietal since it arrived in the 1850's. The Malbecs that Galante produces for Bodegas Salentein possess the varietal's trademark voluptuousness but are beautifully balanced and smooth. Galante’s winemaking philosophy is to “fully preserve the full spectrum of fruit aromas and flavors through a smooth, gentle winemaking process and leading-edge technology.” He believes oak should be present in a wine but without destroying the character of the varietal or the terroir. The end result is, as he puts it, “aromatic, highly concentrated wines, with fine tannin texture, a smooth and silky feel and a lingering finish--wines that truly reflect the very essence of the Valle de Uco.”

Bodegas Salentein Reserve Malbec 2012 ($18.99) showcases the complexity of the varietal without overwhelming the palate. Although it was aged 12 months in French oak barrels, the rich ripe flavor of luscious dark fruit (plums, black cherries) shines through- this wine is undeniably juicy. Smooth with hints of pepper and cinnamon, this vino is a great match for barbecued meats, sharp cheeses, and even with a burger or pizza. 

For Malbec with a twist, I highly recommend the Bodegas Salentein Numina Gran Corte 2012 ($41). This beauty blends mostly Malbec (62%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (21%) with a dash of Merlot (7%), Cabernet Franc (5%), and Petit Verdot (5%). Each varietal was vinified separately and spent six months aging in barrels before being blended together and returned to the French oak barrels to complete aging for a total of 16 months. The delicious result is a robust red wine with aromas of cassis, licorice, and anise seed. Intense with a long finish, it is remarkably smooth and Galante makes sure that the essence of the fruit reigns supreme. A little pricey but absolutely worth it. I would pair this with a medium-rare steak!

More than Malbec, Bodegas Salentein also produces Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir. Their excellent white wines include Chardonnay, Torrontes, and Sauvignon Blanc. And, their Uco Valley vineyard welcomes visitors. Stay on the property at the 16-room  Posada Salentein surrounded by vineyards, dine in their restaurant showcasing local produce & meats, view art at their Killka Gallery, and sip some truly wonderful wines. A visit to Bodegas Salentein sounds like the perfect wine-lover's getaway!

 

The Barrel Room at Bodegas Salentein.

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Travel Off the Beaten Palate to Canada with Emmy Winner Michael-Ann Rowe

What a pleasure to meet Emmy-winning "Off the Beaten Palate" host Michael-Ann Rowe.

Did you know that Canada produces 90% of the world's mustard? Or that the world's second largest country has a vibrant wine industry that grows & bottles everything from Chardonnay to Cabernet Franc? And, let's not forget about the Canadian cowboys that rustle up some of the tastiest meat on the planet and the passionate chefs and self-proclaimed "Beef Geeks" that cook it to perfection.

I learned these tasty tidbits, and many more, at a special screening of the Emmy-winning program Off the Beaten Palate. Created and hosted by food-loving journalist Michael-Ann Rowe, Off the Beaten Palate is a three-part documentary series showcasing the vibrant culinary culture in three Canadian provinces - Ontario, Alberta, and New Brunswick. The series aired in Canada and on PBS in Detroit but you can view video clips and snag unique recipes like Bison Benedict from the Off the Beaten Palate website.

Behind the Label - "Rioja: Conversations with Winemakers" eBook

Miguel Ángel de Gregorio of Finca Allende is one of the captivating Rioja winemakers profiled in the eBook Rioja: Conversations with Winemakers. His family has been producing grapes for five centuries.

The popularity of wines from Spain continues to grow, particularly those from Rioja. Do you want to know a little more about the vino you're sipping? The informative eBook Rioja: Conversations with Winemakers ($4.99) is a juicy source of information.

Rioja: Conversations with Winemakers shows that wine education doesn't have to be stuffy and overwhelming. The book explores seven of Rioja's top wine estates and presents candid conversations with the winemakers. From traditionalists employing ancient techniques to modernists with a more experimental style, Rioja: Conversations with Winemakers highlights the diversity of Rioja. The book also includes video links to short segments that transport you to the vineyards and the cellars.

The personality and culture of the winemaker are crucial partners with Mother Nature in the process of transforming grapes to vino. As a wine drinker, knowing the story behind the label can greatly enhance the tasting experience and help you understand why you love or loath a particular wine. If you're planning a trip to Rioja, the book's dining & hotel recommendations are very useful. Published by Grape Collective, the Rioja book is the first in a planned series of eBooks showcasing winemakers from Barossa Valley to Napa Valley.

Four Tips for Funding Your Dream Vacation

Embark on a financial plan to make your travel dreams to Paris, or any corner of the globe, a reality!

Travel magazines and Hollywood films that show women eating and loving in faraway places can make us long for our own adventures abroad. But let's face it - it takes money to travel the world and many of us don't have the means to jet set on a whim. However, don't let your finances derail your dream of exploring the world. Travel is one of the most important gifts that we can give ourselves. With a little strategic planning, by this time next year you could be sipping a café au lait in Paris or shaking to samba in Rio.

1. Put Your Piggy Bank to Work
Open a savings account that serves exclusively as the piggy bank for your vacation. Add $25 a week to your vacation account and within a year you'll have $1300 towards your trip.

2. Put That Trip on "Layaway"
Shelling out a few thousand dollars all at once can be pretty daunting but what if you could pay for your dream trip with a small deposit and monthly payments? Gate1 is one of the largest tour operators to offer this option and STG Tours is a boutique agency that also provides this service. A friend of mine recently used the layaway option for her dream trip to Greece and Turkey - the smile on her face when she made the final payment towards her adventure was a sight to behold!

3. Rack Up Miles Without Leaving the Ground
Do you have a favorite airline? Most major carriers offer credit cards that allow you to accumulate miles with your purchases. I used to be confused by people who whipped out their credit cards for even the smallest transaction but now I realize that they were racking up miles. Most cards even give you some bonus miles with your new account. And contact your bank about the credit cards that you already have - you might be missing out on rewards programs that include miles that can be redeemed with various airlines.

4. No Hotel, No Problem
Hotel expenses can add up quickly but renting a home can save you big money. Websites like Airbnb make it easy to find everything from tiny studio apartments to spacious homes. There really is something for every budget. Not only will your rental charge be significantly cheaper than a hotel stay but you'll feel more immersed in the local culture. I did this on my trip to Paris last year and loved it. Travel with a friend and save even more by splitting the expenses. To really save money, you can register with HomeExchange and swap your home with someone else.

Do you have some vacation savings strategies that you would like to share? Let me know!