Wine With Wanda

Feeling the Spirit with Angostura Zenith Rum

I'm so thoroughly immersed in the world of wine that there's rarely time to dive deeply into spirits. But where there's flavor, I'll follow. Recently my thirst and curiosity led me to a tasting with Angostura Rum master distiller Jean Georges.

Hosted 101 stories above Manhattan at Peak Restaurant, the scenic and dramatic location was the perfect setting for the reveal of Angostura Zenith, a rare, limited-edition ultra-premium rum. How rare? Only 195 bottles were produced. And expect to pay a pretty penny for this rare rum. A bottle of Zenith will set you back $3,000!

What makes Angostura Zenith so special?

Well, I learned that Trinidad & Tobago was once home to more than 50 rum distilleries, but today Angostura is the last one standing in the Caribbean island nation.

The newest addition to Angostura's Private Cask Collection, Zenith is a compelling link between Angostura and the now defunct Caroni 1975 Limited. Considered one of Trinidad & Tobago's most iconic distilleries, Caroni was celebrated for the rich, earthy, and smoky profile of its rums.

Zenith was produced with the last of Caroni's treasured molasses and is a blend of Angostura® and Caroni rums ranging from 20 to 23 years old. Zenith was aged in charred American oak casks once used for bourbon.

Complex and sultry, Zenith is a wholly realized rum. Its tapestry of flavors includes tropical fruit, raisins, cocoa, apple, vanilla, and a warming thread of toasty oak. "You can't call a rum premium if you don't have a touch of cask," said Georges.

Angostura Zenith is a rum to savor. Don't you dare add cola to it! And if you do splurge on a bottle, you can feel good knowing that a portion of the proceeds will provide a scholarship for a young person pursuing studies in music or art.

And you don't need deep pockets to enjoy Angostura Rum; their portfolio includes a diverse range of rums at approachable price points. I suggest giving Angostura 1824 ($72) a try. "I'm not supposed to have a favorite child, but I do," said Jean Georges as he took a sip of 1824 and extolled its "unique combination of bitter and sweet." Aged for a minimum of 12 years, 1824 is smooth and medium-bodied with hints of chocolate, spices, orange, molasses, fruit, and licorice. The name 1824 is a nod to Angostura's heritage; the company was founded that year by Dr. Johann Siegert, who invented their iconic aromatic bitters.

I also found the silky Angostura 7 ($32) quite charming. Aged in Bourbon oak casks for a minimum of seven years, it has vibrant flavors of honey, toasted nuts, coffee, chocolate, and that tantalizing touch of cask.

During the tasting, Georges asked us to ponder why rum has not been as revered as other spirits such as whisky and cognac. That question has lingered with me. Based on its rich history, cultural authenticity, and precise production process, Angostura certainly makes a case for rum's deserved place in the upper echelons of the spirits world.

Uncorking the Past: History in a Bottle at Liberty Hall Museum

Who knew that in addition to grit and vision, founding a nation required copious amounts of alcohol? America's Founding Fathers appreciated a good tipple and their writings frequently reference booze. Benjamin Franklin famously said, "Wine is constant proof that God loves us and likes to see us happy." Evidence of the drinking habits of America's political trailblazers are on display in Union, New Jersey at Liberty Hall Museum's intriguing new permanent exhibition History in a Bottle.

During a recent renovation, museum staff were shocked by the discovery of a hidden cellar filled with wine and spirits spanning two centuries. Touring the impressive collection with John Kean, president of Liberty Hall Museum, I couldn't help but chuckle when he said, "The Founding Fathers were a bunch of drunks anyway!"

John Kean, president of Liberty Hall Museum. His ancestor, William Livingston, was the first governor of New Jersey and a signer of the Constitution. Livingston built the family's landmark home in 1772.

Built in 1772, Liberty Hall Museum is the landmark estate of the Livingston and Kean families -- their family tree includes the 1st and 48th governors of New Jersey. Active in politics and public service since the American Revolution, the family hosted many of American history's prominent figures at their palatial country estate, including an overnight stay from Alexander Hamilton. More likely than not, Hamilton enjoyed a glass of Madeira during his visit.



The liquid treasures uncovered at Liberty Hall Museum include a bottle of 1796 Lenox Madeira, the same wine that Hamilton might have used to toast a political success against his future assassin, Aaron Burr. Other highlights include a bottle of 1876 Old Crow Bourbon, Brandy from the mid-1800's, and a bottle of Château Mouton Rothschild 1905! 


In addition to the 1796 Lenox Madeira, History in a Bottle features several other very old bottles of Madeira -- an indicator of the importance and popularity of this fortified wine from Portugal during the 18th and 19th centuries. There is even literature that suggests that George Washington's oath of office ceremony was followed by a Madeira toast. Even the signing of the Declaration of Independence was toasted with Madeira. 

As if the discovery of 25 bottles of Madeira dating back to 1796 and 42 demijohns from the 1820's wasn't big enough news, these Liberty Hall treasures were actually in pristine condition! As a fortified wine, Madeira has impressive aging capacity but the exceptional quality of the wines unearthed at Liberty Hall can also be attributed to the excellent conditions of the hidden cellar and the Portuguese cork. Not only did the cork stoppers endure for such an extended period of time, they did an impeccable job of protecting the Madeira. During my visit to Liberty Hall, I was invited to taste their Madeira from the mid-nineteenth century and was blown away by its incredible vitality, freshness, and finesse. 


History in a Bottle is a rare and exciting opportunity to explore 200 years of American history through the lens of wine & spirits. Also, in addition to the exhibition, Liberty Hall and its grounds, located on the campus of Kean University, are absolutely lovely. As described on their website, "over the last two centuries, the originally designed 14-room Georgian Style home has grown into a 50-room Victorian-style mansion. The site houses extensive collections of antique furniture, ceramics, textiles, toys and tools owned by seven generations of the Livingston and Kean families." A great day-trip that is easily accessible from New York City, Liberty Hall Museum is a charming journey to the past.

Sophisticated Sip: Take An Elegant Time-Out with Delamain Cognac

 

Charles Braastad, Managing Director, is the 9th generation to produce Delamain Cognac. 

One of my favorite teachers would jokingly promise us precocious teenagers a snifter of his finest Cognac as a reward for a particularly insightful comment. His classroom manner may raise eyebrows today but it seared the impression that Cognac was the tipple of choice for the elegant and erudite as they sat by fireplaces reading great works of literature. That Masterpiece Theatre-ish image of Cognac has always stayed with me but a recent tasting with Charles Braastad of Delamain Cognac reminded me that just like my adored teacher, Cognac is classic but far from stuffy. 

Delamain may not be as well-known to the masses as the Cognac brands that are name-checked in pop music and splashed in glitzy ads but they are highly regarded by aficionados and their roots run deep in the region. In Cognac, the Delamain name can be traced back to 1625 and in 1639 their ancestor Nicolas Delamain was knighted by Charles I and received the coat of arms that adorns their bottles of Cognac. Truly a family business, today Delamain is managed by Charles and his cousin Patrick Peyrelongue, both direct descendants of James Delamain who charted the family's future as Cognac producers in 1762 when he partnered with his father-in-law.



Delamain emphasizes quality over quantity and Charles said that it takes them a year to produce what the bigger brands produce in two days! But what they do produce is exceptional. Delamain Cognac is made exclusively from Grande Champagne eau-de-vie. The Cognac region, located 60 miles north of Bordeaux on France's coast and split by the Charente River, is divided into six different sub-regions (Crus) and Grande Champagne is officially considered the very best. Not to be confused with the sparkling wine Champagne, Grande Champagne is named for its chalky soil, which is also common in the land of bubbly. Cognac begins its life as wine produced from Ugni Blanc grapes. These very thin and acidic wines don't have enough finesse to drink as is but magic happens when they are double-distilled to create the high-alcohol eau-de-vie that will be aged in French oak to become the brandy known as Cognac.


The cellars at Delamain 

While some producers manipulate their Cognacs with caramel to enhance their color and sugar to boost sweetness, Delamain prefers a less interventionist approach and Charles said, "You don't have to add anything, you just have to wait. This is not commercial Cognac." It takes beaucoup patience for Delamain cellarmaster Dominique Touteau to craft their Cognacs - the minimum age of any Delamain used in a blend is 20 years.

 

Location is also one of Delamain's key assets and their aging cellars benefit beautifully from their proximity, 150 yards, from the banks of the Charente River - it naturally balances humidity and rates of evaporation. Once casks have reached their peak, the cellarmaster begins the blending process. While others dilute their Cognacs with water, Delamain brings the final blend down to consumption strength by the fractional addition of extremely old Cognacs from which much of the alcohol has evaporated. The blended elements spend two years in the cellar to mature in unison before bottling. There are no shortcuts at Delamain - patience, expertise, and passion are essential. 

So how does Delamain taste? My past experience with Cognac has not always been pleasurable and I've often found them too strong and aggressive. But I'm also a big believer in sipping out of your comfort zone and my love of wine has actually enhanced my appreciation of spirits. Delamain expresses a tangible connection with the grape instead of obliterating its essence with oak and alcohol. Deftly balancing the strength and complexity of fine Cognac with freshness and finesse, Delamain is Cognac that I can sip with pleasure. And although many, including my beloved teacher, love the drama of a big-bowled snifter, follow Charles' expert advice and sip Cognac from a small & thin tulip-shaped glass. The right glass really does enhance Cognac's aromas and how the flavors are perceived on your palate. Cognac isn't for guzzling, it is a drink that requires you to spend time savoring its charms as it reveals each layer and nuance. Delamain Cognac is an elegant and timeless time-out from the craziness of modern life.


Delamain Cognac Pale & Dry X.O ($119.99)
The palest X.O Cognac on the market, Delamain Pale & Dry is a great introduction to their minimalist approach of not manipulating their Cognac with caramel and sugar and proves Charles' sage advice to "never judge a Cognac by its color." A blend of 20-25 year old Cognacs that are blended together and then aged in bottle for another 2 years, Pale & Dry is a luminous shade of amber. Quite light and graceful on the palate with flavors of peach and apricot and a subtle hint of spicy clove, this is a Cognac that can be appreciated by newbies and aficionados. An impressively pure expression of Grande Champagne Cognac. (Note: XO stands for Extra Old. Legally, XO Cognacs cannot contain any eau-de-vie less than 6 years old. Clearly, Delamain exceeds this minimum requirement.)

Delamain Cognac Vesper X.O ($199.99)
Charles describes Vesper as a "meditative Cognac" to enjoy by the fireplace, cigar optional! A blend of 30-35 year old Grande Champagne Cognacs, it is darker and deeper than Pale & Dry. Sultry and rich with flavors of dark fruit, spice, and herbs, it is full-bodied, but not overpowering, with an impressively lingering finish that is a Delamain signature. 



Delamain Cognac L'Aigle X.O ($189.99)
Adorned with the eagle from the Delamain family crest, L'Aigle XO takes you on a sensory adventure. A big and bold Grande Champagne Cognac that elegantly balances complexity and richness with levity and grace, L'Aigle is an impressive tapestry of floral, nut, fruit, spice, and chocolate flavors. 
 

Getting the Spirits with Walsh Whiskey & Wemyss Malts

Did you know that a simple definition of whisk(e)y is a spirit distilled from fermented grain mash? The Irish spell this spirit as whiskey and the Scots omit the 'e' and spell it whisky. 
 
Drinking what you already know and love is certainly a pleasure but the excitement of trying something new is irresistible. Sipping out of your comfort zone is the only way to discover new flavors. I certainly have my favorite wines but I like to keep my palate on alert by frequently giving new varietals and regions a swirl. But spirits are another story. I enjoy the occasional cocktail but I still find most spirits a bit daunting. When Palm Bay International, importers of fine wines & spirits, invited me to a whisk(e)y tasting at Dear Irving with the founders of Walsh Whiskey Distillery and Wemyss Malts; I accepted the opportunity to introduce my taste buds to some new flavors. 


Bernard Walsh, chairman of the Irish Whiskey Association and owner of Walsh Whiskey Distillery, pays homage to Ireland's past by drawing inspiration from the 19th century - a time that he describes as the golden age of Irish whiskey distilling. Walsh Whiskey Distillery is headquartered at Royal Oak in County Carlow and is one of the largest independent whiskey distilleries in the country and the first to be developed in Carlow in over 200 years. Walsh describes himself as a farmer at heart and sources the barley for his whiskies from 40 different farmers.



Of course, my innate writer's vanity was intrigued by Walsh's cleverly-coined Writers Tears whiskey ($44.99). Alas, the name was inspired by great Irish writers (not snarky American bloggers) and is produced via the same methods used by 19th century Irish distillers with distillates from the copper pot only - no grain. Distilled from 100% Irish barley, Writers Tears is matured and aged in American oak bourbon casks. But what does it taste like? Well, Writers Tears is delicious enough to win over a whiskey novice like me and has enough complexity to garner a gold medal at the International Spirits Challenge. I loved its flavors of spice, ginger, orange zest, kumquat, brown sugar, almonds, and vanilla. Put in a few tiny drops of water to really release Writers Tears' layers of flavor.

Another great introduction to the Walsh style is his original signature blend The Irishman Founder's Reserve ($37.99). A blend of Single Malt and Single Pot Still styles, it has layered flavors of caramel, ginger, dark chocolate, and honey.  

William Wemyss, founder of Wemyss Malts

Whisky has a rich tradition in Scotland and the Wemyss (pronounced Weems) family have had a longstanding passion for malt whisky. Their connections with the industry date back to the turn of the 19th century and Weymss Castle, looking back towards Edinburgh, has been the family seat for over six centuries. 

Wemyss Malts "The Hive" 12 Year Old ($69.99) blends together up to sixteen different single malt whiskies before adding signature malts from different areas, including Islay and Speyside. The Hive's sweet honey tones are balanced by layers of herbs and a touch of smokiness.

Kick the flavor up a notch with Wemyss Malts "Spice King" 12 Year Old ($69.99). Befitting its name, Spice King reveals savory flavors of Szechuan pepper, cloves, and cinnamon that are balanced by a creamy finish. 



Like delving into the works of James Joyce and Robert Burns, understanding the complexities and nuances of Irish Whiskey and Scottish Whisky requires time and dedication but you don't have to be an expert to appreciate their charms. Try whisk(e)y neat with a drop of water to get a sense of its personality and then experiment with cocktails. Sip out of your comfort zone and you'll be pleasantly surprised! 

Shaking Things Up with Edinburgh Gin

David Wilkinson - Head Distiller for Edinburgh Gin

Ever since a bad experience with some dodgy gin in my college years; I've approached this spirit with tremendous caution. But the charm and expertise of David Wilkinson, head distiller for Edinburgh Gin, persuaded me to give gin another chance.



David was recently spreading the gin gospel across the United States on an educational tasting tour sponsored by Frederick Wildman & Sons Importers. I caught up with the tour on the Williamsburg, Brooklyn stop at Belle Shoals. The lone media attendee, I was surrounded by a rapt group of NYC area bartenders who are big fans of Edinburgh Gin and came to learn more about this premium & small-batch spirit. Without a doubt, I was in the right place to overcome my gin phobia.

Not a bad day - yours truly with gin distiller extraordinaire David Wilkinson and Tim Master (Director of Specialty Spirits at Frederick Wildman & Sons)

At its essence, gin is produced when a neutral spirit is infused with flavors via distillation. Juniper berry is the essential botanical component that gives gin its unique flavor, but David taught me that other key botanicals include coriander, angelica root, licorice root, and orris root. But the really exciting thing is that gin can be distilled with almost any botanical. Edinburgh's various gins include quintessentially Scottish botanicals such as heather and milk thistle and unexpected flavors such as Szechuan pepper. Really, the possibilities are limitless and a maestro like David has the expertise to balance the flavors. Whether you're a gin novice or an aficionado, Edinburgh Gin is an elegant and delicious addition to your spirits library.


The classic Edinburgh Gin ($35) is a great introduction to their style and a delicious example of what a premium gin should taste like. Distilled from the finest Scottish grain, this crisp & clean juniper forward gin is 43% ABV and includes a total of 13 botanicals; including citrus peel, coriander seed, pine heather, and milk thistle. Beautifully balanced, this smooth gin makes an excellent martini. Bottled in fine Italian glass, the art deco inspired bottle pays homage to the golden age of gin - the 1920's.

Courtesy of Edinburgh, I had my very first Negroni cocktail. It won't be my last!

Edinburgh Cannonball Navy Strength Gin ($45) takes it to the next level! This 57% ABV libation resurrects an old style of gin commissioned by the British Navy but with a unique twist - double strength juniper and Szechuan pepper give this gin a powerful but elegant kick. It makes a mighty fine Negroni (equal parts gin, sweet vermouth, and Campari, with an orange peel garnish).

If you're planning a trip to Scotland, Edinburgh Gin Distillery offer tours, tastings, and gin making classes. Cheers!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From Cocktails to Caviar: Getting Creative with Cognac

Mixologist extraordinaire and Cognac educator Franky Marshall kicked off the evening with delicious Cognac & Champagne cocktails.

One of my favorite literature teachers in high school used to jokingly offer a snifter of his finest Cognac to the student who made a particularly clever observation. His humor may have been wasted on soda-swilling teenagers, but many years later I am starting to understand his passion for Cognac. I was recently invited to learn more about this iconic French spirit at an amazing evening hosted by award-winning mixologist and certified Cognac educator Franky Marshall at Balvanera restaurant in New York City. I've always thought of Cognac as an after-dinner drink, so I was stunned and impressed by the clever Cognac & food combinations devised by Franky and Chef Fernando Navas.


Our evening began with a Cognac & Champagne cocktail expertly prepared by Franky - the French 75. Most often prepared with gin, I found that Hine RARE Cognac VSOP made the French 75 more complex and nuanced. The dry Champagne melded intriguingly with the Cognac's smoky and caramel notes. After all, before it becomes Cognac, the spirit starts off as a low-alcohol white wine produced primarily from the Ugni Blanc grape. The white wine is then distilled in two stages, which increases the alcohol content. Once distillation is complete and the eau-de-vie has been created, the transformation to Cognac continues with the crucial step of aging the eau-de-vie in oak casks. It is the contact with wood extracts during the aging process that imbues Cognac with its color and bouquet. The Cognac Master Blender is the artiste that guides the aging process and blends together eaux-de-vie of distinct ages and different crus. The aging designations for Cognac are V.S. (Very Special, the youngest eau-de-vie in the blend is at least two years old), V.S.O.P. (Very Superior Old Pale, the youngest eau-de-vie is at least four years old), and XO (Extra Old, the youngest eau-de-vie is at least six years old). However, most Cognac Master Blenders use eaux-de-vie that are much older than the minimum requirements in their blends.

 
Cognac and caviar may seem like an unlikely combination but the pairing of Osetra with Bache Gabrielsen "Natur & Eleganse" Cognac XO ($140) was nothing short of sensational.  XO is the richest of the Cognacs and when eaten with caviar it enhances the creaminess of the fish eggs and creates a decadent flavor explosion.






Another surprising pairing was Park Cognac VSOP served with Duck Breast, Risotto and Asparagus. Park VSOP was bold enough to hold its own with the rich and succulent duck without overpowering it.  

Are you intrigued by Cognac? Visit www.cognac.fr for everything you need to know - from its history to how to read the label. Cheers!

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