Wine With Wanda

Wine Tasting in NYC: Tr3smano from Ribera del Duero, Spain

Let's meet for a drink! Join me on November 2 for a complimentary tasting of Tr3smano wines from Ribera del Duero, Spain. Click here to register. 

Take your palate on a journey to Ribera del Duero, Spain with the wines of Tr3smano! Join Wine With Wanda on Thursday, November 2, from 6-8pm for a complimentary in-store tasting at the sensational new wine shop Community Wine & Spirits in Chelsea (140 Tenth Avenue). This is a casual tasting. Arrive any time during the event to taste and learn more about Tr3smano. But I do encourage you to arrive early!

Esteemed wine critic Jancis Robinson described Tr3smano as a “superb newcomer in Ribera del Duero”, and I agree. I recently tasted Tr3smano with head winemaker Pedro Aibar and I was impressed by the elegance, balance, and complexity of these absolutely delicious wines. Located in the heart of the Golden Mile, Tr3smano winery draws from the oldest vineyards in the region – some are over 80 years old!

Community Wine & Spirits will offer a 10% discount on Tr3smano purchases made that evening.

Another Reason to Love Spain: La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza

From now on, whenever I see a bottle of La Rioja Alta "Viña Ardanza” Reserva Rioja, I'll be reminded of a laughter-filled wine tasting on a Monday morning in Manhattan. Magic happens and memories are created when you share a beautiful bottle of wine. Tasting Viña Ardanza 2016 with winemaker Julio Saenz (l) and Guillermo de Aranzabal (r), president and 5th generation member of the family that owns La Rioja Alta, transported me back to Spain. Our conversation covered wine, my love of Spanish pop music from the 1980s and 1990s, and the benefits of retiring in Spain. Good times!La Rioja Alta has a rich history; it was founded in 1890 by five Riojan and Basque families in Rioja's famous Haro Station District. Today, when we're having meaningful conversations about women's roles in the wine industry, it was fascinating to learn that La Rioja Alta's first president was a woman and that women currently occupy important leadership roles at the winery.
 
Real wine is never just about the wine. If it were, countless poems, books, songs, and blog posts would not be written about fermented grapes. Real wine tells a story. For La Rioja Alta, wine expresses tradition, family, innovation, terroir, culture, and much more. Guillermo described La Rioja Alta's wines as "new classic Rioja" and "traditional but adapting to new trends." The wines capture the character of the vintage in a fresh and elegant style.

 La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva 2016 ($42) is a blend of 80% Tempranillo and 20% Garnacha, and I agree with winemaker Julio's description of the wine as "fruity and spicy." This wine is not harsh or out of sync; the tannins are beautifully integrated, and the oak does not overpower the fruit (they make their own barrels, too!). A pleasure to drink, 2016 is crooning in the glass now, but this beauty will age gracefully and will really hit those soaring notes in a few years.  And maybe by then, I’ll be retired in Spain!

Deep Roots and Wines That Soar: A Taste of Catalunya with Familia Torres

Miguel Torres Maczassek, President, Familia Torres

If you’ve been reading my wine musings for a fair amount of time, it’s no secret that I love Spain and I have great affection and respect for family-owned wineries with a long history. So, it was an absolute joy and honor to chat on Instagram Live with Miguel Torres Maczassek, fifth-generation vintner and president of Familia Torres. In 2020, Familia Torres Winery celebrated their 150th anniversary, but their winemaking roots in Spain can be traced back to 1557! 

Familia Torres produces quality wine from 9 DOs across Spain, and in Chile too, but our tasting focused on wines from Catalunya, where the family has deep roots. During our chat, we discussed the rich history of Familia Torres, their commitment to sustainability, high-altitude heroic viticulture, regenerative farming, and the important role monks played in winemaking in Catalunya. We tasted:

Varietat Recuperada “Forcada” 2019 ($74) – The Torres family placed ads in newspapers asking for help in locating pre-Phylloxera ancestral varieties. 60 varieties have been identified, including this Forcada from the northwest of Penedés. A very aromatic white wine, it has great body, texture, and acidity and flavors of chamomile, citrus, and a bit of honey and white peach. A real treat and treasure!

Purgatori 2017, Costers del Segre ($48) is a blend of Cariñena, Garnacha, and Syrah from a more inland area. It has concentration, but there’s a wonderful freshness that prevents it from being jammy.

Salmos 2017, Priorat ($42), is also a blend of Cariñena, Garnacha and Syrah. I love the Mediterranean character of this wine; you can really smell and taste the influence of mountain herbs and the sunny climate. The wine is bold but not overbearing with rich and juicy red and black berry flavors.

Watch the video for Miguel’s wonderful tasting notes and background info on the wines. Cheers!

Sip This: Bodegas Granbazán Albarińo Don Alvaro de Bazán 2015

How could I not be intrigued by Granbazán Albariño Don Álvaro de Bazán 2015 ($50)? This single-vineyard and six-year-old Albariño from Rias Baixas elegantly proves that Albariño can have aging power. We’re all familiar with the fresh charms of young Albariño, but when these wines are carefully crafted with aging in mind, they’re something special. Sourced from a single plot, the Albariño grapes were fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel and aged on the lees for 36 months. The flirty, fresh, and pretty essence of Albariño remains, but extended aging takes the flavors and textures to the next level. Peach, citrus, salinity, honeysuckle, chalky minerality, round and luscious – this vino is pretty fantastic. 

I also recommend Granbazán Etiqueta Verde 2020 ($18). This classic expression of a young Rias Baixas Albariño is an elegant thirst quencher on a steamy day. 

Watch my IG Live chat with Bodegas Granbazán winemaker Diego Ríos to learn more about their wonderful wines and Rias Baixas. 

Say Hola to Somontano, Spain with the Wines of ENATE

Jesús Artajona Serrano has been the winemaker at ENATE since it was founded in 1992. 

Traveling by trains, planes, and automobiles may be a risky proposition in this age of social distancing, but you can still explore the world through wine. I recently took a joyful journey to Somontano, Spain, with ENATE winemaker Jesús Artajona Serrano on Instagram Live.

image courtesy of Bodega ENATE

Somontano is located in northeastern Spain, south of the Pyrenees, on the natural border with France. I first visited Somontano in 2017 and have been there three times; I fell in love with the wines, the landscapes, and the people. Somontano has a rich winemaking history, and unlike many Spanish regions that are closely associated with a specific indigenous variety, Somontano has gained acclaim for their prowess with international varieties.

Click the video above, or watch my conversation with Jesús on IGTV or YouTube. Founded in 1992, ENATE is a modern and environmentally friendly winery, and celebrating art is an integral part of ENATE's vision; they describe themselves as the place "Where Art and Wine Become One." ENATE's wine bottles are adorned with labels designed by well-known contemporary artists, and the winery has an impressive art gallery. During my chat with Jesús, we tasted the 2019 vintage of ENATE Chardonnay 234 ($13.99) and 2015 ENATE Crianza Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon ($15).

When asked what foods to pair with the wines, Jesùs said that the most important thing is "a good partner in front of you, in a good ambiance, and conviviality." We also discussed ENATE's commitment to environmentally-friendly winemaking, and Jesús stated that "sustainability is not a virtue, it is a duty." And what inspired Jesús to become a winemaker? Jesús had planned on a career in chemistry, but when he was twenty-years-old, he fell in love with a beautiful young French woman and decided to study enology in Bordeaux. Chemistry of a different sort!

Tasting Notes


2019 ENATE Chardonnay 234 ($13.99) 
Label by artist Pepe Cerdá

Very aromatic with notes of green apple, ripe peach, and a hint of tropical pineapple, and guava. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, it is impressively rich and round without sacrificing crispness. Bright acidity and a hint of salinity. A delicious and well-balanced Chardonnay.



2015 ENATE Crianza Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon ($15) 
Label by artist Victór Mira
Ripe red fruit flavors on the nose and palate with a hint of smoke and spice. Full and juicy with a touch of warm toast. The blend is 70% Tempranillo, which was aged in American oak for nine months, and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, which was aged in French oak for nine months before being blended together. 

Las Moradas de San Martín Showcases the Beauty of Old-Vine Garnacha

Isabel Galindo, winemaker for Las Moradas de San Martín 

My recent Instagram Live chat with Isabel Galindo, winemaker for Las Moradas de San Martín, inspired me to give her a nickname: La Reina de Garnacha (Queen of Garnacha.) Isabel makes Garnacha that sings in the glass. There's nothing generic about the wines of Las Moradas. Made from old-vine Garnacha, with some vines more than 100-years-old, the wines of Las Moradas tell a story of terroir and winemaking that respects nature. Located just one hour from Madrid, Las Moradas is an oasis that feels a world away from the hustle and bustle of city life. I visited Las Moradas in 2017 and it is a treasure. 

Isabel describes Las Moradas Garnacha as "wines that grow"; they may seem a bit timid in the beginning, but they open and reveal the fullness of their personality as you sip. Watch our conversation on IGTV, YouTube, or below to learn more about the wines of Las Moradas de San Martín, Isabel's tasting notes, and her pairing suggestions. Hint: you may want to get some delicious Jamón Ibérico! 

During our chat, we tasted Senda 2016 ($15.99) and Initio 2013 ($12.99). Don't let the affordable prices fool you; these organically-farmed old-vine Garnacha wines have integrity and really over-deliver. Senda is fresher and younger, but hints of herbs and a perceptible minerality add an elegant structure to its bright red fruit flavors. Initio takes it up a notch; it is richer and more complex, with layers of red & black fruit, herbs, licorice, graphite and cocoa, but it is not a heavy wine, and lively acidity keeps Initio soaring. Tasting them side-by-side is a delicious lesson in detecting the nuances of wine and understanding the expressive range of Garnacha. 

A Taste of Spain and Hungary with the Wines of Tempos Vega Sicilia

Diana Kelley, Regional Manager America, Tempos Vega Sicilia

The eighth episode of Wine With Wanda on Instagram Live showcased Tempos Vega Sicilia. For many wine lovers, just hearing the words Tempos Vega Sicilia elicits a powerful emotional response. Their wines are legendary. But why? To answer that question, Diana Kelley, Regional Manager America for Tempos Vega Sicilia, joined me in a lively conversation that explored their winemaking philosophy and commitment to quality and authenticity that prevails at their four wineries in Spain and their winery in Hungary. 

To watch the conversation, click the video above or view it on YouTube. 


Aromatic, crisp, and lively, Oremus is a refreshing dry Furmint with great minerality.  

During our conversation, we tasted Oremus Mandolás Tokaji Furmint 2017 ($29.99) from their estate in Hungary and Pintia 2014 ($79) from vineyards located on the banks of the Duero River, within the Toro Appellation in Spain. Diana shares detailed tasting notes in the video. 

100% Tinta del Toro, "Pintia 2014 has a frank, expressive nose; intense sweet fruity aromas well integrated with a nuance of spicy woodiness." 

A Conversation with the World Wine Guys, Mike DeSimone & Jeff Jenssen

 

The third episode of Wine With Wanda on Instagram Live featured award-winning journalists and authors Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen, the World Wine Guys. This dynamic duo’s best selling books include one of my go-to resources Red Wine: The Comprehensive Guide to the 50 Essential Varieties & Styles (co-author, Kevin Zraly). Our lively chat explored how their wine writing career started by faxing a pitch to Wine Spectator, their love of Spain, suggestions on which wine regions to visit, and the charms of comfort food paired with fine wine!   

Don't worry if you missed the live show, you can view the conversation on YouTube. During our chat, we all sipped on wines from Spain. Mike and Jeff were savoring a special wine from their cellar, Bodegas Ontañon Gran Reserva Rioja 2005. My sip was the charming and refreshing Pazos de Lusco 2018 Albariño, Rias Baixas ($21). 

The World in Your Wine Glass: 5 Sensational Sips from Spain

image courtesy of Bodegas LAN

The COVID-19 pandemic may have put the kibosh on travel, but don’t let it stifle your wanderlust. Cocooned in my Manhattan living room, wine helps me to maintain a connection to the soul and soil of places that I love and to get acquainted with places I’ve yet to explore. Spain holds a special place in my heart. I studied in Barcelona and Toledo and those two years abroad changed my life in countless ways. From home-cooked meals lovingly prepared by my host family to tipsy tapas crawls with friends, Spain was my true introduction to the culinary and cultural importance of wine. During this time of social distancing, take your palate on an adventure to España. Stay safe, stay home, sip the world!


Ànima Negra “Quíbia” 2018 ($20)
Fresh and crisp, with a hint of sexy salinity, Ànima Negra “Quíbia” 2018 is an off-the-beaten-path sip from the island of Mallorca. A blend of the indigenous grapes Callet, Premsal, and Muscat-Giró, it is a beautifully balanced white wine with loads of texture and finesse. I visited Mallorca many years ago and this wine brought back memories of its azure Mediterranean waters and balmy breezes.


 
Pagos del Galir Godello 2018 ($21)
Say hola to Godello! This gorgeous sip from the Valdeorras DO in Galicia, Spain is no wimpy white wine. Round and juicy, Pagos del Galir Godello 2018 has flavors of grapefruit, lemon zest, white melon, and a sassy touch of salinity. If you’ve never tasted Godello, this is a lovely introduction.

Baron de Ley Varietales Tempranillo Rioja 2017 ($11)
This charmer from Rioja has round and rich red fruit flavors that are balanced by a hint of spice and earth. Juicy with great acidity and a long finish, this is a lovely wine at a fantastic price.



Bodegas LAN "Culmen" Reserva Rioja 2011 ($69)
Ready to splurge? Yes, Culmen is on the pricier side, but this special wine is worth it. First produced in 1994, the Latin name Culmen was chosen to signal that this wine is a culmination of fine winemaking, a wine at the apex of authenticity and elegance. A blend of 88% Tempranillo and 12% Graciano from a single parcel of old vines that are 40-60 years old, Culmen Reserva 2011 was aged for 26 months in new French oak barrels yet retains an impressive freshness and vitality. Constantly evolving in the glass, Culmen takes your palate on a journey. Sultry red and black fruit flavors and accents of spice, licorice, earth, and smoke make Culmen a complete and captivating wine experience.

Harveys Bristol Cream Solera Sherry ($17)
Although Harveys Bristol Cream has been around since 1882 and is the best-selling Sherry in the world, I had never tasted it until recently. Well, this oldie but goodie is quite the little charmer. Sweet but not sticky, it has gorgeous nutty flavors along with rich flavors of figs, honey, raisin, caramel, and toffee. A sweet ending to a day of social distancing!

Wine Still Matters

Alto Adige, Italy

LBC. Life Before Coronavirus. Before the COVID-19 pandemic swept across the planet, my days were a blissful swirl of wine tastings, wine seminars, winemaker interviews, and preparing for trips to wine regions. My, how things have changed. Like many of us, I am social distancing and staying at home. And that’s ok. It’s a small sacrifice to make. Unlike my friends working in hospitals, newsrooms, and grocery stores, I am not being asked to fight this virus from the frontline. We’re being asked to stay at home, a luxury that many of us used to lament was lacking in our over-scheduled lives. Let’s not mess this up.

I haven’t gone stir crazy yet from social distancing, but I do miss human interaction. Bound by the vine, the wine community is a warm one where even strangers hug and share kisses on the cheek. We sit side-by-side, often spitting wine into shared spittoons at tastings. (OK, I don’t really miss the spitting, but it is an important part of the winetasting ritual.) I can’t help but wonder how some of these norms will change once the curve is flattened. Will elbow bumps forever replace kisses on the cheek?


Secastilla vineyard, Somontano, Spain

Thanks to Facebook and WhatsApp, I’ve been able to stay connected with my winemaking friends around the globe, especially those in Spain and Italy. I worry and pray for their safety as COVID-19 wreaks havoc on their countries. My love of Italy and Spain goes far beyond the beautiful wines they produce. These two countries, where I've spent the most time abroad, have taught me priceless lessons about the importance of living life to the fullest and that as people, what binds us together is stronger than our differences. I’ve also shared virtual happy hours with my New York drinking buddies. For now, we can't huddle together over a bottle of vino at our neighborhood wine bar but clinking glasses over cyberspace is an important reminder that we’re not alone. We're socially distant but perhaps closer than ever.  

As I adapt to this new reality, I’ve been struggling with the best way to continue writing about wine. It is impossible to ignore that the world is in upheaval and that many of us are scared. Honestly, for the past few weeks, I haven’t been able to pour my heart into writing long and in-depth wine stories. To do so, almost seemed frivolous as people are fighting for their lives and mourning the loss of loved ones.

But I also believe that maintaining some sense of routine during harrowing times is essential. It may seem silly, but each morning I put on earrings and lipstick. They’ve been part of my daily regimen for decades and to abandon them now would rattle me. And after a long day of watching pandemic press briefings, a glass of wine is a precious gift. I don’t know when I will stroll through vineyards again but wine keeps me connected to the soul and soil of places that I love and inspires curiosity for those I've yet to visit.

My home state of New York has deemed wine and spirits retailers as essential during this pandemic and business has been brisk - this is good for the economy here and abroad. There's no denying the importance of the wine industry to the GDP of many nations. I always encourage responsible drinking but let’s face it, wine and spirits can provide a giddy escape on these long and uncertain days. But wine’s true essentialness is found in its artistry, its expression of place, and its power to connect us. What could be more essential to our humanity?

I’ll be back soon with stories of the wines, regions, and people that mean so much to me. I appreciate them now more than ever. 

Stay safe. Stay home. Stay connected. 

Cheers, 

Wanda

Sip and Savor a Magical Place in Spain with Secastilla Garnacha 2014

Oh, the stories that old vines tell. Are you listening? Secastilla Garnacha 2014 ($39.99) reveals a captivating tale of 100-year-old Garnacha vines, tucked away like a precious treasure, in a majestic hilltop vineyard in an ancient valley in Somontano, Spain.

I’ve visited Secastilla three times and it always feels like a fairy tale. And while every good fairy tale has a castle, Secastilla has seven -- its name, Septcastelum in Latin, was inspired by the seven castles that once dominated the landscape. The actual structures may be gone but you can feel the magnetic pull of this land that inspired the Romans to lay claim to it. There’s an undeniable magic in Secastilla’s fresh mountain air, soaring altitude, and stony soils. You can taste it in the wine.

Full of soul and spirit, Secastilla Garnacha 2014 has an impressive purity. It displays a crispness and freshness that connects directly to the flavor of a perfectly ripened Garnacha grape plucked from those hardy centenarian vines. Aged for 10 months in French oak, that time in wood beautifully enhances the flavor of the Garnacha without obscuring its essence. A beguiling balance of finesse and rusticity, Secastilla Garnacha envelops the palate with rich & juicy fruit and a tinge of spice wrapped around a stony mineral core. Delicious now, this vino has the structure and finesse needed to age gracefully. I think time will only reveal more of its charms.

Under the leadership of Viñas del Vero winemaker and manager Jose Ferrer, the 2012 vintage of Secastilla Garnacha was recognized as the best red wine in Spain at the International Wine Challenge. Jose never imagined that one day that he would make wine in the very same vineyards he wandered as a child with his father. 

Secastilla is never far from my mind but my thoughts wander there with more frequency during the winter months when the cold and dark seem to be in collusion to steal my joy. A bottle of Secastilla Garnacha instantly brings me back to those blissful moments walking the vineyards and touching the gnarly old vines that yield such beautiful fruit. And I’ve had the privilege of walking that special land each time with one of my favorite winemakers, Jose Ferrer.

If you’re planning a trip to Spain, I highly recommend traveling the Somontano wine route. Located in the northeast of Spain, south of the Pyrenees on the natural border with France, Somontano produces a diverse selection of high-quality wines. In addition to the stunning natural beauty of the vineyards, the region has great shops, places to dine, and tasting rooms. Aren’t you ready to create your own Spanish fairy tale?

A Tantalizing and True Taste of Rioja: The Wines of Beronia

I first met Beronia winemaker and technical director Matías Calleja when he visited New York City but to begin to understand him, I had to walk the vineyards and touch the soil in Rioja, Spain. In Rioja, the soft-spoken Matías revealed another layer of his personality -- the intense passion that drives this native son to make wines that express the richness of his homeland. Energetic with a wicked sense of humor, Matías has been at Beronia since 1982, an especially impressive tenure when you consider that Beronia was founded in 1973. 


Rioja is Spain's preeminent wine region and Beronia has played an important role in it's increased recognition for quality wines and innovation. One of Matías's forward-thinking contributions is his creative use of barrels that combine French and American oak for a selection of their wines. 95% of the wines produced by Beronia are red and designed for long aging and the right oak is a crucial component in encouraging longevity. Using barrels made up of American staves and French tops allows Matías to extract the best qualities of each: the intensity of the American oak's cinnamon, vanilla, and coconut flavors are balanced by the subtlety of the French oak's clove and black pepper flavors. 

During my visit, I raced to keep up with Matías as he showed us the 32,000 barrels of wine that were in Beronia's cellars at that time. Those wines were elegantly aging and resting but there's no shortage of Beronia bottles ready for you to take them home.

And it's no surprise that Beronia's wines are incredibly food-friendly: the winery was founded by six Basque friends who loved to spend time in Rioja, wining and dining. Beronia honors this legacy by supporting the tradition of Basque gastronomic societies known as Txokos. Why not gather some friends together to cook a meal paired with a delicious glass of Beronia Rioja? The three wines listed below all showcase elegant fruit flavors that are harmonious with the oak but increase in complexity due to extended aging times. Tempranillo, the queen grape of Rioja, is the leading lady in each of these wines but is supported by small amounts of other native grapes, such as Mazuelo and Graciano. 

Beronia Crianza 2016 ($14.99)
Approachable and fresh but not wimpy, Crianza was aged for 12 months in Beronia's special mixed oak barrels made of American staves and French tops. A fantastic everyday wine with lively red fruit flavors and hints of vanilla, suggested pairings include slices of delicious Spanish jamón and other charcuterie.

Beronia Reserva 2014 ($19.99)
Crafted from a selection of the best grapes from the oldest vineyards, the influence of the oak is more prominent in the Reserva because it was aged for 20 months in combo American & French oak barrels. Another 18 months in the bottle before release adds to its balance and complexity. Rich fruit flavors are enhanced by hints of warm cinnamon and vanilla. A fantastic match with steak, roasts, and game. 

Beronia Gran Reserva 2010 ($29.99)
This bold and graceful wine shows how beautifully Beronia's wines age. Full of life, Gran Reserva is made from the best grapes from the oldest vineyards and was aged for 28 months in French oak barrels and an additional 36 months in bottle prior to release. Silky and luscious, it is an intriguing tapestry of fruit, spice, and herbal flavors. A winning match with your finest roast and mature cheeses. 


And if you need further proof that Beronia's wines age gracefully, I tasted this bottle from their very first vintage in 1973 and it was exceptional. If a friend has this bottle in their cellar, be extra nice so they share it with you.



If your travels take you to Rioja, Beronia welcomes guests for tours and tastings. Trust me, you'll love it. 

Wine, Two, Three: Bodegas LAN Viña Lanciano Reserva 2012 Rioja

Posts titled Wine, Two, Three are quick reads that highlight key facts about one wonderful wine. Let this brief introduction inspire you to try the featured wine and explore more from that winery’s portfolio. Cheers!

"You get to know the vines better over the years and you can extract the best from each parcel."

The Winemaker: María Barúa
From an early age, María Barúa knew that winemaking was in her future. A native of Spain’s Rioja region, María's wine-loving father inspired her passion for vino. “He taught me to appreciate the great classics of Rioja. Choosing the wine that we would serve alongside Sunday lunch was a highlight of the week.” After earning degrees in chemistry and enology, María's journey led her to Bodegas LAN in 2002. She has been LAN's technical director since 2007 and is one of the few women in the region to hold the dual roles of winemaker and technical director. 

The Wine: Viña Lanciano Reserva 2012, Rioja, Spain ($24)
A blend of 90% Tempranillo, 8% Graciano, and 2% Mazuelo grapes that were hand harvested from vines planted over 30 years ago. Fermented in stainless steel and aged for a total of 42 months in a combination of French oak, Russian oak, and in the bottle. 

The Taste: Silky and smooth with vibrant flavors and aromas of red cherry, plum, and blackberry. Mineral and crisp with well-integrated tannins. A great match with stews, smoked & spicy dishes, meat carpaccios, and mature cheeses. An elegant expression of Rioja!  

Soul, Style, Somontano: Viñas del Vero's Wines Are an Intriguing Taste of Spain

 Living la vida Somontano! A spread of fresh and authentic Spanish cuisine paired with Secastilla Garnacha in their stunning vineyard in Somontano. 

Traveling in the name of wine brings so much joy to my life but sometimes writing about the places and people that have secured a place in my wine-loving heart is a daunting task. Finding the right words to adequately describe a transcendent moment can feel like an exercise in futility. Call me melodramatic, but this is how I feel as I stare at my computer screen and struggle to write about my recent visit to Viñas del Vero winery in the Somontano region of Spain. Write, delete. Write, delete. Remembering the advice of an old boss that told me more than once, "Wanda, sometimes done is better than perfect," I plunge ahead. Imperfectly yet passionately, here I go! 

Let's start with some key facts. Somontano is located in the northeast of Spain at the foot of the Pyrenees, in the province of Huesca in Aragón. Somontano means "beneath the mountain" and the Pyrenees mountains provide a natural border with France. Viñas del Vero, one of Somontano's most important and celebrated producers, is part of the prestigious González Byass family of wineries. 

Elegant, rich, and refreshing La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha Blanca 2017 (around $17) is a charming expression of the complex flavors of the grapes grown in Viñas del Vero's high-altitude Secastilla vineyard. 

These 2008, 2013, and 2018 vintages of Viñas del Vero Chardonnay showcased the aging capacity of these well-made wines from Somontano. 

Somontano stands out not only for producing some of Spain's highest quality wines but also for its incredible viticultural diversity. Somontano's unique terroir makes it ideal for growing a wide variety of grapes, including Garnacha, Gerwürztraminer, Chardonnay, Merlot, and more. Few places in Spain can match Somontano's powerful two-punch of quality & diversity. Whenever I recommend wines from Somontano, Viñas del Vero's diverse portfolio of wines tops my list. 

Secastilla

One of Viñas del Vero's most precious treasures is their old-vine, high-altitude vineyard in Secastilla valley, in the far north-eastern limits of Somontano. I first visited Secastilla in 2017 and have been blessed with the opportunity to return two more times -- most recently in the spring of 2019. Secastilla is a place that both soothes and exhilarates my soul. For me, Secastilla expresses the essence and power of wine as a source of pleasure and peace. Vines were first planted here by the Romans in the 1st century BC and the name Secastilla references the seven castles that once dominated the landscape. 

"Apart from being a way of life, the best thing about wine is the passion or the hook it puts in you. It is not only work, but enjoyment." 
José Ferrer, winemaker and manager, Viñas del Vero

I've become such a familiar face at Viñas del Vero's winery and vineyard, winemaker and general manager José Ferrer joked that perhaps I should lead the tour instead of him. A winemaking genius, José is humble and charming. I never tire of hearing about his elaborate barrel aging process for their high end Blecua wines or climbing the steep slopes of Secastilla and touching the 100-year-old vines that are the foundation of their award-winning Garnacha. José's connection to this land is authentic and intense. He never imagined that one day he would lead winemaking in the same vineyards he wandered as a child. José is absolutely sincere when he says that he wants all of Viñas del Vero's wines to be an expression of their land. He could never imagine doing it any other way; Somontano is in his soul.

Old Garnacha vine at Secastilla

More than once I've joked with friends that should I ever run away, chances are that you'll find me in Spain, and Somontano is one of the first places they should look! Just a few hours by car from Barcelona, I highly recommend a visit to Somontano and time at Viñas del Vero is a must. They have a wonderful tasting room and their visitor experiences include tastings and vineyard tours, including by Segway. During the harvest season, guests can experience the incredible process of picking and pressing grapes. 

Of course, you don't have to cross the ocean to get a taste of Viñas del Vero's wines. You can take your palate on a tasting adventure to Somontano from the comfort of your living room. 


La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha 2016 is an excellent introduction to the house style. Crafted from high-altitude old vines; its purity of expression and elegant concentration of flavor is impressive. Wonderful now, this wine has the structure needed to age beautifully. This wine has quite a legacy -- the 2012 vintage was honored as the Best Red Wine in Spain at the International Wine Challenge.  

I must confess to an obsession with Blecua. I don't only consider it one of Spain's most impressive wines, it's a tremendous wine by any measure. José considers Blecua 2010 the finest wine he has ever made. and said, "Keeping in mind that it is a wine with two years of aging and that is made with the best of the best of the best of the best. It is not only a wine of the vineyard, but also of the winery. It requires a lot of reflection on what to save and what to give up. It is a winemaker´s wine." First produced in 1997 and only in the best vintages, for me Blecua is the wine that best expresses Somontano's ability to produce world-class and awe-inspiring wines.

Smiles and wines are in abundance whenever I see José Ferrer on my visits to Somontano! His talent, passion, and connection to the region imbue the wines of Viñas del Vero with authentic character. 

I stand by the words I wrote in 2017 when I tasted Blecua for the first time. "Like an artist working with a palette, José approaches Blecua creatively and the red blend changes with each vintage. Blecua involves a triple selection process of choosing the best vineyard sites, best grape bunches, and the best barrels. Barrel selection is an integral part of the Blecua process and José experiments with aging the grapes in French and American oak with varying levels of char before making the final selection. The end result is a sophisticated wine with tremendous approachability and aging ability." What's changed since then is that Blecua is now available in the United States - thank goodness! 

The beauty of the Viñas del Vero portfolio is that it truly has a wine for every mood, meal, and budget. Whether you are enjoying a simple picnic or haute cuisine, their wines enhance the experience. Only time will tell if my travels will bring me back to Somontano again but I know the region's wines, especially those from Viñas del Vero, will always be a part of my life. Authentic and delicious, each sip keeps me connected to a place in Spain that has become very special to me. 

To learn more about Somontano and Viñas del Vero, read my articles Seduced By Somontano: My Unforgettable Wine Adventure in Spain and All Roads Lead to Garnacha: A Wine Lover's Journey Through Spain and France. 

Follow the Bubbles in Barcelona and Spark Some Joy at Vilarnau Cava

Not far from Barcelona's bustling boulevards and ancient alleyways, a wine lover's adventure awaits you in Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, the heart and soul of Cava production. More than a wine made in the same labor intensive method as Champagne, Cava proudly stands on its own as a sparkling wine. Cava has a Catalan soul and expresses its unique terroir and traditions. I recently had the pleasure of experiencing this first-hand on a recent visit to Vilarnau. 

 Founded in 1949, in 1982 Vilarnau became part of the prestigious Gonzàlez Byass family of wineries. Located just an hour from Barcelona, Vilarnau is one of about 100 Cava houses in Sant Sadurní d'Anoia but they are perhaps the most expressive of their connection to Catalunya's capital city -- their bottles proudly say Vilarnau Barcelona. Their portfolio even includes bottles with graphics inspired by the iconic Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí. Who truly knows when Gaudí's Sagrada Família will be finished but trust me, you'll have no problems polishing off a bottle of delicious Vilarnau Cava!

image courtesy of Vilarnau

A visit to Vilarnau is a fantastic day-trip from Barcelona and the winery offers a wide variety of activities. While traditional tours and tastings are available, Vilarnau steps it up many notches with tours by Segway, motorized bike, or even helicopter. However you choose to tour Vilarnau's vineyards, seeing the vines provides tremendous context to the wines you will taste. And if you really want to have a hands-on experience in the vineyards, Vilarnau will happily put you to work grape treading and pruning, during season. 

My guide for the day was the bubbly and knowledgable Eva Plazas Torné, technical director and a member of the winemaking team at Vilarnau. A native of Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, Eva grew up surrounded by Cava and her life experience is complemented by her degree in agricultural engineering. From the vineyards to the cellar, Eva was a priceless source of information and her enthusiasm is contagious. Meeting Eva reminded me that everyone should have a career that brings them so much joy and also brings happiness to those around them. (I love my job but maybe in my next life I could make Cava?)

Cava Vilarnau Brut Reserva ($14.99) is a fantastic introduction to their style. A classic blend of Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarel-lo, it was aged more than 15 months in the bottle. Fresh and fruity with lively acidity and crispness. 

Yes, Cava is a sparkling wine that like Champagne undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle but they are not the same wine, and they shouldn't be. To understand Cava, it is important to know the three grapes that are the backbone of the blend: Parellada, Xarel-lo, and Macabeo. These indigenous grapes give Cava a unique flavor profile. However, other grapes, including Chardonnay are also allowed in the blend. 

Eva describes Parellada as "Delicate like a ballerina. Subtle and elegant, it adds acidity to the blend." "Xarel-lo is like a strong man," said Eva, because of its higher alcohol, power, and good structure. "Macabeo is the backbone, with a good balance between alcohol, acidity, and structure. It is like a woman playing the violin."


Eva also explained the three types of aromas present in Cava. The primary aromas are those of the grapes -- green apple, citrus, and floral and reinforce why it is important to nurture and pick high quality fruit. Cava's captivating secondary aromas come from the second fermentation and the long aging time on the lees (yeast) gives Cava warm and inviting bread and brioche aromas. It takes time for Cava to develop the tertiary aromas that come with aging, such as honey, nut, and toast. 

Shhhh, Cava at rest. Vilarnau Cava aging in the cellar. 

The minimum aging time for Cava is 9 months but Vilarnau ages many of their wines for much longer. As we tasted, Eva reminded us that the bubbles in younger Cava are bigger and move faster in the glass because they are not yet well integrated. From bone dry to sweet, fresh to complex, Vilarnau has a Cava for every mood, meal, and moment. Visit their website to see the full range. 

Vilarnau Brut Reserva Rosé Delicat ($14.99) is an elegant blend of mostly Garnacha with a kiss of Pinot Noir. As the name implies, it is a delicate wine but it is not wimpy. Aged for 15 months, the crisp and fresh fruit flavors are enhanced by a hint of creaminess. The bold and colorful bottle design is inspired by "Trencadís", a kind of mosaic that was used in the modernist artistic movement in Catalunya. Gaudi's Parc Güell in Barcelona is the most famous example of this technique. 

Of course, wine and food are meant to go together and Cava & Calçots are a winning combination. If you visit Barcelona when these spring onions are in season, you can reserve your space at Vilarnau for an authentic Calçotada. A Catalan culinary tradition, families and friends gather to eat mountains of these char-grilled delicacies by hand. Smoky, sweet, and savory; the calçots are dipped in Romesco sauce. A perfect match with Vilarnau Brut Reserva Rosé Delicat. 

Vilarnau winemaker Eva Plazas Torné demonstrates proper calçot dipping technique. 

I was 16 years old and living with a Catalan family in Barcelona when I had my first sip of Cava. That was many decades ago but visiting Vilarnau and sipping their Cava triggered that memory in vivid detail. In an instant, I recalled the audible excitement of everyone gathered around the table when the cork popped, the bubbles bouncing rhythmically in the glass, and the refreshing kiss of that first sip. I'll never be 16 again but Vilarnau's well-aged wines and Barcelona's eternal charms are poignant reminders that the passage of time can be a beautiful thing. And now I have some new Cava-centric memories to savor and share. 


Gaudi's iconic La Pedrera (Casa Milá) on Passeig de Gràcia in Barcelona. I can't believe that I used to walk by this building on my way to school.

If you're planning a trip to Barcelona, a visit to Vilarnau is a sparkling addition to your itinerary. And until then, pick up a bottle of Vilarnau Cava to take your palate on a journey and spark some wanderlust. 

 

Green Spain in a Glass: Albariño from Rías Baixas

Greed is good when it comes to Albariño from Rías Baixas. Trust me, it would be foolish to deny yourself the pleasure of sipping this charming white wine from Galicia, also known as "Green Spain" because of its lush landscape. Galicia's proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, unique climate, and mineral-rich soils imbue Albariño grapes from Rías Baixas with impressive freshness, crispness, minerality, and salinity. And it's not surprising that the finest expressions of Albariño hail from Rías Baixas; the grape is indigenous to the region. 

image courtesy of Rías Baixas wines

Within the Rías Baixas DO (Denomination of Origin), there are five sub-regions with unique micro-climates that produce wines with subtle differences. Easy-breezy expressions of Albariño may be the most familiar but other styles are also available, including sparkling and aged. There's nothing boring about Rías Baixas Albariño; these are white wines with presence, personality, and panache. Aromatic, fruity, crisp, and dry; Albariño from Rías Baixas merits a place in your glass. I recommend exploring Albariño from Rías Baixas with these four fantastic wines. Cheers! 

Terras Gauda O Rosal 2017 ($24)
A seductively aromatic blend of Albariño (70%), Caiño Blanco (22%), and Loureiro (8%). Rich and intense with hints of ripe peach. 

Vionta Albariño 2017 ($15)
100% Albariño. Creamy with a tinge of salinity and lively flavors of lemon and green tea. 

100% Albariño, Paco & Lola 2012 ($50) shows that Albariño has the capacity to age beautifully. Rich and round with good acidity, it is a harmonious tapestry of ripe fruit flavors with a tinge of cream, toast, and salinity. 

Albariño gets the sparkling treatment in Sensum Laxas 2017 ($48). Made in the traditional champagne method, this elegant expression of 100% Albariño grapes has delicate bubbles and hints of honey and brioche. 

How a Kiss Changed My Mind: Confessions of a Sangria Snob

image courtesy of Beso del Sol 

I must confess that I’ve always been a shameless Sangria snob. How could I possibly drink pre-made Sangria when I have such vivid memories of my handsome friend Javier in Spain making homemade Sangria for our weekend fiestas? That was decades ago but I can still picture Javi cutting up mountains of fruit, adding it to wine, and bringing it to life with dashes of other special ingredients to create his masterpiece. Those were the days! But honestly, I have no idea where Javi is and the likelihood of me making Sangria from scratch is pretty slim. So, when I was invited to try Beso del Sol, I decided to set aside my memories of handsome Javi and my pre-conceived notions about ready-to-sip Sangria. 

A blend of wine with natural Mediterranean fruit extracts, I have to admit that Beso del Sol, which translates to Kiss of the Sun, is pretty delicious! I particularly like the classic red, made from 100% Spanish Tempranillo grapes blended with lemon, orange, and a touch of cinnamon. Juicy and fruity but not cloyingly sweet, the flavors are beautifully integrated and balanced; it tastes impressively fresh and authentic. 

image courtesy of Beso del Sol

The cute 500ml juice box style contains the equivalent of 3 glasses and costs about $5.99. Beso del Sol also makes a 3 liter bag-in-box that contains the equivalent of 4 bottles and comes with a pour spout  - that popular option costs about $18.99. A 1.5 liter glass bottle is also available for about $12.99. Available in red, white (100% Spanish Airén grapes blended with lemon, peach, and mango) and rosé (100% Spanish Tempranillo grapes blended with orange, lemon, peach, mango, and a touch of cinnamon), Beso del Sol is a great option for picnics, boat rides, and backyard BBQ’s. Fill a large punch bowl with Beso del Sol, garnish it with some fresh fruit, and your guests will easily be convinced that it's made from scratch; just be sure to keep the empty containers out of sight!

Nothing could ever compete with my memories of handsome Javi's Sangria but Beso del Sol has shown this Sangria snob that it is possible for a ready-to-drink Sangria to be 100% natural, made with integrity, and express the essence of the original. 

Rooted in Rioja: Family & Tradition Are the Foundation of CVNE Winery's Success

"Our future is in our past. Our treasures are the things we have from the past."
Victor Urrutia Ybarra, CEO of CVNE

Wines from Rioja are hotter than ever but don't dare call Spain's most famous wine region an overnight sensation. Way back in 1102 King Sancho of Navarra was so impressed by Rioja wines that he recognized them legally. The world has changed dramatically since the 12th century but tradition still matters in Rioja and respecting the legacy of the past is certainly at the heart of CVNE's winemaking philosophy. I recently had the pleasure of chatting with Victor Urrutia Ybarra, CEO of CVNE (Compañía Vinícola del Norte del España) and the 5th generation of his family to lead the winery since it was founded in 1879 in the town of Haro. 

Dynamic and down-to-earth, Victor has proven himself preternaturally talented at moving his family's business towards the future without dismantling their solid foundation. A true citizen of the world, Victor speaks perfect English (with the most charming British accent) and worked in Brazil before taking over the reins at CVNE. Victor shared so many interesting stories while we tasted his family's wines that I've decided to present them in a list format -- Things Victor Told Me: Five Amazing Facts about CVNE Wines! 

 1. CVNE's Monopole is Spain's oldest white wine brand, it was first produced in 1915. Bone dry and incredibly crisp, Monopole Clásico 2014 ($27) blends Viura with a small bit of Manzanilla Sherry from the south of Spain! CVNE has special permission from the Rioja appellation to create this unique wine. Monopole Clásico has a charming hint of creaminess and salinity from the velo de flor - the thin biological veil of yeast that develops on the top layer of Manzanilla Sherry. "A great wine needs to be complex. A wine can't just be fruit. Monopole has a quirkiness to it," said Victor when discussing this very special wine. 


2. CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva is the only wine from Spain ever to be honored as the #1 Wine of the Year by Wine Spectator. This prestigious accolade was bestowed in 2013 on the 2004 vintage. One of Rioja's true classic wines, Imperial was first produced in the 1920's and the current release, Imperial Gran Reserva 2011($80), has also earned critical acclaim. A blend of mostly Tempranillo (85%) with Graciano (10%) and Mazuelo (5%), it is a very fine example of a traditional Rioja with a touch of modernity: intense yet graceful with vibrant red fruit flavors, soft tannins, and a tinge of spice. The name Imperial comes from a special bottling for the English market, Pinta Imperial (Imperial Pint).


3. CVNE introduced Viña Real in 1920. More modern in style but not generic, these wines clearly express Rioja Alavesa in their freshness and elegance. Viña Real Crianza 2015 ($17) has an approachable price but doesn't skimp on finesse and nuance. A blend of Tempranillo (90%) with Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Graciano; this wine is juicy and fruit-forward with lively touches of licorice, spice, and vanilla. 

image courtesy of CVNE

4. CVNE's cellars were designed by Eiffel! Yes, the very same Alexandre Gustave Eiffel that designed the iconic Eiffel Tower in Paris. Eiffel's construction begun at CVNE in 1890 and was completed in 1909. A melding of aesthetics and functionality, the roof is supported by metal trusses which crisscross the room at regular intervals and eliminate the need for columns. Visitors are welcome for tours and tastings at CVNE, Viña Real, and their Contino winery.

5. CVNE has a royal following: his majesty Juan Carlos I, King of Spain inaugurated the new Viña Real winery in 2004. Also, the 1994 Imperial Gran Reserva was served at the royal nuptials of King Felipe (he was the Crown Prince at the time of the wedding in 2004). The royal household staff selected the wine in a blind tasting of 200 Spanish wines. Victor said "a great wine can seduce you without being overpowering." Clearly, CVNE's powers of seduction work on even the most finicky palates. 

Perhaps the most important take-away from my meeting with Victor is not something he said but something he showed: humility. As the CEO of one of Spain's most important and acclaimed wineries, Victor's accomplishments are impressive and he certainly has earned the right to be proud of himself and his family. Yet, Victor isn't boastful and is focused on the hard work required to sustain CVNE's tradition of excellence, while innovating in a thoughtful manner. CVNE's wines are absolutely wonderful but they taste even better when you're in good company like Victor's. Another example of wine's power to bring people together. 

To learn more about CVNE, visit their website. 

He Is Pere Ventura and His Wines Are Fantastic: Chic Cava from Catalunya

 

Marta Sanvicente (chief winemaker, Pere Ventura Cava) and Pere Ventura (president and owner of Pere Ventura Family Wine Estates)

Wine is very humbling -- there's always something new to learn. On a brisk fall night in downtown Manhattan, I learned that Pere Ventura is not just the brand name on a wonderful bottle of sparkling wine but also the name of a charming & creative Catalan gentleman. Mr. Ventura's business card boldly states "Yo Soy Pere Ventura" (I am Pere Ventura) to make it crystal clear that Pere Ventura the wine would not exist without Pere Ventura the man. His hand print on each bottle is a bold statement of Mr. Ventura's personal dedication to quality.

Pere Ventura Cava is located in northeast Spain, near Barcelona, in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, in the Penèdes region - the heart of Catalunya's Cava production zone. 

As a young man, Pere Ventura dreamed of dedicating his life to the priesthood but wine has provided him with a different type of ministry. Traveling the world to share his acclaimed sparkling wines, Pere Ventura spreads the gospel of a life enhanced by wine. When he founded his namesake winery in 1992, Mr. Ventura wasn't just determined to make Cava of exceptional quality, he was honoring his family's winemaking legacy that can be traced back to the 19th century. Cava is in Mr. Ventura's DNA -- his great grandfather, Manuel Montserrat Font, helped produced the first bottles of Cava at Codorniu. 


Cava has grown in popularity but the wines of Pere Ventura prove that it is more than Spain's fun and inexpensive sparkling wine. In the right hands, Cava can achieve impressive elegance and depth. With Marta Sanvicente at the helm as chief winemaker, Pere Ventura Cava continues to reach new heights. There are no short-cuts when it comes to making Cava at this level and Pere Ventura produces all of their Cava in the traditional method of sparkling wine production, the same labor-intensive method used for Champagne. Sustainability is also a priority at Pere Ventura and the grapes are farmed organically.

Pere Ventura Tresor Brut Reserva ($16.99) is a great introduction to the Pere Ventura style. A classic blend of Xarel-lo (40%), Macabeo (40%), and Parellada (20%), it is crisp and clean with lively flavors of ripe apples, grapefruit, lemon, and brioche. Aged 24-30 months on those lovely yeasty lees, this wine truly over-delivers at such an affordable price. 

Pere Ventura Tresor Brut Rosé ($16.99) is made from 100% Trepat and has been aged about 15 months on the lees. Fine bubbles dance across the palate with fresh flavors of strawberry, raspberry, and cherry. 



Pere Ventura Vintage Brut Gran Reserva 2012 ($44.99) is a next-level Cava that beautifully convey's the wine's capacity for complexity and sophistication. A blend of Xarel-lo (60%) and Chardonnay (40%) grapes sourced from old vines with an average age of 25 years, this stunner spends a minimum of 45 months luxuriating on the lees. Creamy and velvety with hints of butterscotch and a tinge of bitter almond at the finish, this vintage Cava balances intensity with lively acidity and fine bubbles. 

Pere Ventura Gran Vintage Gran Reserva 2012 ($86.99) is an exclusive and limited production Cava made only in exceptional vintages. The price may initially strike you as lofty for a Cava but it represents a superior level of winemaking. The Macabeo (50%) and Xarel-lo (50%) grapes are sourced specifically from the estate's old vine plots La Anciana and La Secreta. These elder vines yield small quantities of exceptional grapes. Aged for 5 years on the lees in deep underground cellars, Pere Ventura Gran Vintage Gran Reserva 2012 is a vivid expression of terroir and meticulous winemaking. Vivacious but delicate bubbles smoothly transport elegant flavors, textures, and a sense of place. 


Are you ready to take your palate on a Cava adventure? If your travels take you to Spain's Catalunya region, Pere Ventura offers tours and guided tastings. But no passport is needed to enjoy these wines, Pere Ventura Cava is widely available. And when you pop open a bottle of Pere Ventura be sure to raise a glass in honor of Mr. Pere Ventura! 

A Wine That Sparks Memories: Secastilla Garnacha 2010

 

For Proust, a bite of a madeleine cookie triggered a flood of memories. For me, it was a sip of Secastilla Garnacha 2010 that transported me back to a very special day in Spain. Around this time last year, I made my second visit to Somontano, in northeast Spain, to tour Viñas del Vero's majestic Secastilla vineyards. A few nights ago, vivid memories of that trip came flooding back as I sat in my Manhattan living room sipping Secastilla Garnacha.

Secastilla Garnacha 2010 ($39.99)

I could smell the fertile fragrance of Secastilla's rain-drenched air and hear the staccato pitter-patter of raindrops on the roof of the tiny cabin where our group sought refuge. We nourished ourselves with laughter and thin slices of jamón that glistened with luscious threads of fat. I could feel the awkwardly comforting sensation of a stranger's bulky rubber boots on my feet because Secastilla's kind and observant winemaker, José Ferrer, had deemed my soaked sandals ill-suited for a trek in the mucky vineyard and tasked his colleagues with finding me more appropriate footwear. For anyone who doubts that wine can trigger a strong emotional response, they just haven't found their Secastilla: a wine with the power to transport you back in time. 

Award-winning wiinemaker José Ferrer. The 2012 vintage of Secastilla Garnacha was recognized as the best red wine in Spain at the International Wine Challenge.

A visit to Secastilla is not required to appreciate the transcendent beauty and superb quality of this wine. 100% Garnacha sourced from 100-year old-vines, Secastilla 2010 elegantly expresses the unique terroir of this magical valley overlooked by seven ancient castles that are the inspiration for its name. Exceptionally talented winemaker José Ferrer has crafted a wine that lives up to the splendor of these surroundings and conveys a genuine sense of this other-worldly vineyard that soars 700 meters high at the foot of the Pyrenees, embraced by almond and olive groves. Rich yet graceful, 10 months of aging in French oak imbues Secastilla Garnacha 2010 with a tinge of spice but does not overwhelm the rich and vibrant fruit flavors of black cherry with a touch of brambly forest fruits and licorice. A perfect red wine to pair with the heartier flavors of fall, Secastilla 2010 may inspire you to embark on an unforgettable journey to this magical place.  


I don't think I've ever been so happy to be caught in the rain -- the magic of Secastilla! 

Spinning Bottles: Viña Pomal Blanco 2016

So much wine, so little time! My cell phone is filled with photos of almost every bottle that I taste but it is impossible to write about each one. Inspired by the childhood game of Spin the Bottle, instead of spinning an actual bottle and kissing the person that the bottle points at, I've opted to take a spin through my wine photos until one gives me that tingling feeling that reminds me of how delicious it was. After all, a great glass of wine is almost as good as kissing (sometimes better)!


Meet my new wine crush - Viña Pomal Blanco 2016 ($15). Chock full of personality, this charmer from Rioja is an exquisitely textured and balanced blend of the traditional varieties Viura (70%) and Malvasia (30%). As elegant and crisp as Antonio Banderas in a white linen suit, it is a supple and fresh white wine with a hint of sexy warmth and toastiness garnered from 4 months of aging in French and American oak. However, there is no overwhelming oaky taste to Viña Pomal Blanco and it retains vibrant fruit and minerality plus a hint of herbs and a seductive creaminess from time on the lees. I was honestly surprised at the $15 price tag because Viña Pomal beautifully over-delivers. A perfect match with warm summer nights, flirty conversations, seafood, salad, and mild cheeses. 

Mixed Barrels & Pure Passion: Beronia Winemaker Matías Calleja Innovates in Rioja

Was it destiny? Beronia winemaker Matías Calleja was born to a winemaking family in Ollauri, the historic town in La Rioja where Beronia is located. Matías has completed 36 harvests at Beronia! 

Winemaker Matías Calleja is endearingly modest when he talks about his impressive career. Considered one of Rioja's innovators, Matías has been at the acclaimed Beronia winery since 1982 and became Technical Director in 1996 -- that's pretty impressive considering that the winery was founded in 1973. His long tenure at Beronia has had a definitive impact not only on their wines but on winemaking throughout Rioja and all of Spain. Matías balances his technical know-how with authentic passion and humbly says, "Everyday I enjoy my job. I enjoy making wine."

It's hard to fathom but there was a time when Spanish cuisine and wines were not as celebrated abroad as they are now. Having lived in Spain in my younger years, I can say that it was frustrating when I returned back to the US and couldn't find authentic expressions of the flavors that I had grown to love. Of course, times have changed and you'd be hard pressed to find an American food-loving city that doesn't have a first-rate tapas bar with a great Spanish wine list. In the old days, Spanish wines had a reputation for being more rustic than elegant but Beronia has been one of the leaders in elevating the quality of Spanish wines without obliterating their authenticity.


image courtesy of Beronia

Located in the north of Spain, Rioja is the country's preminent wine region and is divided into three distinct sections: Rioja Baja, Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Alta. Beronia's vineyards are concentrated in the heart of Rioja Alta and experience a mainly Atlantic climate along with various micro-climates. The soils have a balanced structure of sand, sediments, clay and other qualities that make them ideal for the production of quality wines. 


image courtesy of Beronia

But one of the most distinctive traits of Beronia's winemaking style is what I call "The Matías Method" for barrel aging. Why choose a barrel made exclusively from French or American oak, when you can combine both? 95% of the wines produced by Beronia are red and designed for long aging. Matías, a self-proclaimed oak enthusiast, pioneered combining French and American oak in one barrel to achieve optimal aging results for a selection of their wines. The Matías Method of aging reds in barrels made up of American staves and French tops is a hallmark of the Beronia Style. American oak tends to be more intensely flavored and contributes oaky flavors such as cinnamon, vanilla, and coconut. French oak imbues the wines with more subtle and pungent spicy notes like clove and black pepper and Matías believes that it "respects the fruit more." Combined together in this clever fashion, the two very different oaks balance and enhance each other. 


My recent tasting of Beronia included a barrel sample and showed how oak selection influences their wines. 

When we talk about Rioja reds, Tempranillo is la reina (the queen) and occupies more than 75% of the region's vineyards. In younger wines, Tempranillo's fresh & fruity nature are its main appeal but the grape also has the structured needed to grow more complex during many years of barrel and bottle aging.


Beronia Reserva 2013 ($19.99) is mostly Tempranillo (95%) with kisses of Graciano (4%) and Mazuelo (1%). Crafted from a selection of the best grapes from the oldest vineyards, Beronia Reserva 2013 was aged in mixed French & American oak barrels for 20 months and aged in bottle for another 18 months before release. That's a lot of serious, creative, and meticulous winemaking at a very affordable price! A captivating shade of deep cherry red, the winemaker's notes describe it as "On the nose complex aromas of black fruits, above all blackberry. It also shows a great bouquet of spices with cinnamon standing out and notes of cedar on the finish. On the palate smooth with sweet and round tannins. Great balance between acidic fruit and oak. Fresh, structured, and complex with a long aftertaste."



Beronia Gran Reserva 2009 ($29.99) takes it to the next level. 98% Tempranillo with a besito of Graciano (2%); shows Matías's flexibility and precision as a winemaker. For the Gran Reserva, he opted to age the wine exclusively in new French oak for 28 months, not mixed barrels, and an additional 36 months in the bottle. Silky and bold but not aggressive, the winemaker's notes say "Beronia Gran Reserva 2009 shows a deep intense maroon color. On the nose intense and complex with dried fruits and plums standing out over chocolate and sweet spice. On the palate structured and full showing black chocolate and tobacco. This wine shows great personality with a full body, elegance, and freshness." 



Reds may rule in Rioja but Beronia brings the same level of passion and innovation to their white wine Beronia Rueda 2017($12.99). Crafted from 100% Verdejo grapes from two different harvests in the same vineyard that were vinified separately, it has a perfect balance of crisp freshness and nuanced complexity. Rich and aromatic but very refreshing, the winemaker's notes say "Beronia Rueda 2017 is pale yellow in color with greenish tints. Intensely aromatic, it displays notes of citrus and white fruit along with herbaceous aromas that are typical of the grape variety, such as fennel. Richly textured on the palate, it is fresh and elegant, with a slight touch of bitterness on the finish, also characteristic of the Verdejo grape."

      

In 1982, Beronia was integrated into the highly regarded González Byass wine family but has retained its unique Beronia style. Tasting wine and sharing laughs with Matías, during his recent visit to Manhattan, transported me back to Spain for a few wonderful hours. This conviviality is truly in the DNA of their wines - Beronia was founded by six friends from the Basque country who loved to wine & dine together while vacationing in Rioja. Elegant, authentic, and creative; Beronia's beautiful wines are made for sharing and bringing people together. 

Click here to learn more about Beronia's complete portfolio of wines and to plan your visit to their winery in Rioja. 

Legacy & Luxury in Spain's Duero Valley: Abadía Retuerta Has Perfected the Elegant Wine Lifestyle

Enrique Valero absolutely loves his job. And who can blame him? As CEO of Abadía Retuerta Winery & Managing Director of LeDomaine, Enrique oversees an acclaimed winery, luxury hotel, spa, and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Without a doubt, his job is demanding but Enrique absolutely glows when he describes the many wonders of the estate's 1730 acres in the heart of Spain's Duero Valley. 

image courtesy of Abadía Retuerta

Not only committed to crafting exceptional wines, Abadía Retuerta also respects the tremendous cultural and architectural legacy of their estate. The property's luxury hotel, Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine, opened in 2012 after a meticulous restoration of the estate's 12th century medieval abbey. LeDomaine guests are surrounded by a compelling combination of traditional ambiance and modern amenities.

Spa Sommelier Service
image courtesy of Abadía Retuerta

For example, the abbey’s original dining hall, with a vaulted Gothic ceiling and a 17th-century fresco, is now a temple of haute cuisine and home to the estate's Michelin-starred restaurant, Refectorio. An old stable was elegantly transformed into the luxurious Santuario Wellness & Spa; where the innovative services include a Spa Sommelier that designs personalized treatments based on guest preferences in Abadiá Retuerta wines.  

Refectorio Restaurant is housed in the abbey's original dining hall and has one Michelin star. 
image courtesy of Abadía Retuerta

Devotion to the vine and winemaking is an integral part of this land's history and Abadía Retuerta follows in the footsteps of the medieval monks that preceded them. Their philosophy is based on winemaking by plot because the composition of the soil of each of Abadía Retuerta's 54 plots is different. From clay to gravel, sand to limestone, each plot is planted with only one grape variety, which has been carefully selected to extract the best qualities of the terroir. 


image courtesy of Abadía Retuerta

 Even if a trip to Spain is not in your immediate future, you can experience a bit of the magic of Abadía Retuerta with one of their beautifully made wines. 



Abadía Retuerta Selección Especial Sardon de Duero (around $29.99) is their best-known wine around the world and for very good reason! A blend of their best Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah grapes; it is a rich yet balanced vino with expressive fruit, herbal, and spice flavors. A beautiful introduction to the Abadía Retuerta style. 



Tempranillo is considered by many to be Spain's most noble grape and Abadía Retuerta Pago Negralada Tempranillo (around $95) is a single vineyard wine that beautifully captures the unique qualities of its terroir. These Tempranillo vines are planted in deep gravel soils intermixed with sand at the surface and produce wines described as having a "distinctive firm, tannic character". This seductive vino is silky and smooth with a rich tapestry of flavors: strawberry, licorice, herbs, and minerals. 



Abadía Retuerta Le Domaine Blanco de Guarda (around $40)
Hailing from a land of reds, this unique white wine has enough structure and complexity to age for years. Blanco de Guarda is Abadía Retuerta's first white wine and is quite impressive. Crafted from mostly Sauvignon Blanc with a kiss of Verdejo and other white varieties, it is an intriguing medley of flavors: citrus, floral, mineral, and spice. A substantial and textured wine that still retains crispness and freshness after several years. (I tasted the impressive 2012 but newer vintages are available.)

Click here to learn more about Abadía Retuerta, their full portfolio of wines, and how you can book your dream vacation at their luxury hotel. 

Wine About Town: Kim Crawford, Guía Peñín, Wines of Southwest France

One of the many joys of wine is getting to spend time with the people that turn grapes into drinkable art; their talent and passion inspire me everyday. New York City is always a top destination for winemakers and my hometown hosts a never-ending parade of tasting events. My Wine About Town column showcases some of the marvelous winemakers & tastemakers that I've had the pleasure of sharing a bottle with at events in NYC. 

KIM CRAWFORD


Winemaker Anthony Walkenhorst, of New Zealand's acclaimed Kim Crawford winery, was recently in NYC at Mr. White restaurant to celebrate the debut of Kim Crawford Signature Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2017($24.99).



Grapes for this superbly balanced and luscious Sauvignon Blanc are sourced from selected small lots along Marlborough's coastal plains and valleys where they ripen slowly and develop exceptional flavor. Vibrant but not aggressively zingy, this refreshing white wine elegantly balances citrusy and tropical flavors with crisp minerality.

GUÍA PEÑÍN 

Ana Lopez Lidon, export manager for Gramona Cava, poured their exceptional sparkling wines at the Guía Peñin tasting in NYC. 

Direct from Spain, the Guîa Peñin tasting has become one of NYC's most anticipated wine events.



Guía Peñín is Spain's most influential wine ratings guide. Featuring top wines from throughout Spain, the event at City Winery beautifully showcased the high quality and diversity of Spanish wines. 

Enrique Valero, managing director of Abadía Retuerta in Spain's Duero Valley. 

Standouts at the tasting included Gramona Cava's exceptional sparkling wines and Abadía Retuerta's regal reds.

WINES OF SOUTHWEST FRANCE


Sommelier André Compeyre at the Wines of Southwest France Happy Hour 
image courtesy of Lydia Lee Photography

Wines of Southwest France hosted a festive happy hour at the French Cheese Board in Soho. Sommelier André Compeyre, of Aldo Sohm Wine Bar, led guests through a tasting of wines. Selected as the 2017 Wine Region of the Year by Wine Enthusiast magazine, as I've written before, Southwest France produces an impressive array of well-made wines, at great prices, from unique local grapes like Mauzac and Prunelard, as well as international varieties like Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

It was fun to catch up with Julien Ducos, export manager for Domaine du Tariquet. 

Southwest France has no shortage of talented winemakers. To get started, I recommend wines from Domaine du Moulin, Domaine du Tariquet, Jean-Luc Baldés Clos Triguedina, and Château Montus. 

All Roads Lead to Garnacha: A Wine Lover's Journey Through Spain and France

Organic and gorgeous Garnacha grapes at Las Moradas de San Martín in Spain. 

Spain and France may speak different languages but these two wine-loving cultures are bound by Garnacha. Known as Grenache in French, Garnacha is one of the most widely planted grapes in the world but it truly thrives in its place of origin: the hot and dry Mediterranean terrain of eastern Spain and southern France. (It also has a strong presence in the Italian region of Sardinia where it is called Cannonau.)

For many years, Garnacha was best known as a blending grape but it is finally in the spotlight as a superb single varietal sip with the power and presence to stand on its own. An amazingly versatile grape that can produce a dynamic range of white, rosé, red, and fortified wines; there truly is a Garnacha/Grenache for every palate. Recently, I traveled to several regions of Spain and to Roussillon in the south of France for an unparalleled Garnacha adventure. You don't need a passport to go on your very own Garnacha/Grenache tasting tour, many of my suggested wines can be found at your local wine shop. Others may require some effort, or a trip abroad, but they're worth it. 

Madrid

 Las Moradas de San Martín winemaker Isabel Galindo speaks of the soil, vines, and wine as being alive. Isabel has a minimalist approach to winemaking so that Garnacha is the star and not overpowered.

My Garnacha journey began in Spain, about an hour from Madrid, at Las Moradas de San Martín. Garnacha is Spain's most widely planted wine grape but I had no idea that vineyards existed so close to the bustling metropolis of Madrid and that there is actually a Vinos de Madrid D.O. (Denominación de Origen). Committed to organic and sustainable wine production, Las Moradas is striking for its seemingly lack of human intervention. Instead of perfectly aligned rows of vines, these hardy and gnarled Garnacha vines just seem to be touched by Mother Nature and allowed to follow their own path. With vines averaging 70-80 years old and some as old as 100, Las Moradas is an Eden of Garnacha.



 Las Moradas de San Martín Initio 2010 ($20) is a stellar example of Garnacha's elegance, personality, and aging potential. Amazingly fresh and vibrant at 8 years old, I agree with the winemaker that the wine tastes alive. Intense and concentrated red fruit flavors are bolstered by hints of the wild herbs and flowers that share the idyllic terrain with the grapevines. 

Cariñena


Still in Spain, we followed the Garnacha trail to Cariñena, in the heart of the Ebro Valley, in Zaragoza/Aragon. Cariñena may not be a household name but it certainly has history - wine has been produced there since the Roman era and it received DO status in 1932. Cariñena's high-altitude vineyards with ancient stone soils and old vines, produce wines with complexity, depth, and character. The region's dramatic swings in temperature promote even ripening of the grapes and flavor development. Almost 100% of the region's production focuses on red wines.


Bodegas San Valero Particular Viñas Centenarias 2012 ($12.99) is an excellent introduction to the impressive and affordable wines of Cariñena. Limited-production from their oldest vines (100 years old!), this vino is rich and complex. 

Another old-vine beauty, Bodegas Paniza Viñas Viejas 2012 ($13) is made with high-altitude, old vines that are up to 100 years old. Rich fruit with a touch of smoky spice.  

Campo de Borja

There would be no wine without the hardworking men and women that harvest the grapes. Such a beautiful smile from this gentleman working the rocky soils of Fuendejalón for Bodegas Aragonesas. 

A very confident Campo de Borja has deemed themselves the "Great Empire of Garnacha!" Established in 1990, this relatively young DO has more than 16,000 acres under vine in the Zaragoza/Aragon region and is celebrated for red Garnacha wines that are fresh and energetic. Bodegas Aragonesas has a passionate devotion to Garnacha and say, "We express our love of Garnacha both on the land and in the winery. We know that it is an essential part of our heritage, and we do our best to continuously improve our methods of cultivation and winemaking."



Bodegas Aragonesas produces one of my favorite Garnacha wines from Spain - Coto de Hayas Garnacha Centenaria 2016 ($11). Consistently delicious, this super juicy and delightfully fresh vino captures the vitality and joy of Garnacha from Campo de Borja. 

Calatayud 

 Dynamic young winemakers Jorge Temprado and Juanvi Alcañiz are making wonderfully expressive wines with Garnacha at Bodegas San Alejandro in Calatayud.

"Regal reds from a rugged land" is an apt description of wines from Calatayud in Zaragoza/Aragon. The Calatayud DO was established in 1990 but vine cultivation in this steep mountainous area dates back to the 2nd century BC. Founded in 1962, Bodegas San Alejandro is one of the most important wineries in the region. Old vines combined with soaring altitudes create wines with impressive structure and minerality. 


Bodegas San Alejandro Las Rocas Garnacha 2015 ($17.99) is an excellent expression of terroir and elegant winemaking. A big, juicy, and spicy wine that captures the energy of Calatayud's soaring vineyards. 

Terra Alta



Smiling faces and stunning landscapes at Cellers Unió vineyards in Terra Alta. 

White and red Garnacha with a Catalan flair is the hallmark of Terra Alta. Established as a DO in 1984, Terra Alta is "where Garnacha reigns in red and white." Recognized for their crisp and mineral-rich white wines since the 19th century, red Garnacha wines from this mountainous region in the province of Tarragona elegantly express intense red fruit flavors with a streak of minerality. Cellers Unió credits the local winds “cerç” and “garbí” for refreshing the grapes in the region's hot summers and preventing illnesses.


Fresh and frisky with crisp minerality and a touch of cream, Unió Corporació
Alimentaria Clos Dalian Garnacha Blanca 2016 ($9.99) captures the Terra Alta style. 

Somontano

A fairy tale view of the vineyards at Secastilla in Somontano. 

A magical and beautiful region in the northeast of Spain, Somontano is a powerhouse for quality winemaking. South of the Pyrenees in Huesca/Aragon, on the natural border with France, the dry climate, cold winters, hot summers, and diversity of soil types make Somontano an ideal location for the cultivation of many grape varieties. Somontano is celebrated for its prowess in producing everything from Gewurztraminer to Merlot but the region also boasts some of Spain's finest Garnacha. 


Viñas del Vero is one of Somontano's most esteemed wineries and their astoundingly vibrant and balanced Secastilla Garnacha 2012 was honored as the Best Red Wine in Spain at the International Wine Challenge. (2010 vintage currently available in the US for $29.99.)

As a child, Viñas del Vero winemaker José Ferrer grew up visiting the vineyards of Secastilla with his father and now he is one of Spain's most celebrated winemakers. Extremely talented and endearingly humble, José's wines display grace, passion, and emotion. 

Viñas del Vero also produces a superb white Garnacha, La Miranda de Secastilla Blanco 2015 ($16).

Roussillon: In France, Garnacha is Grenache

Quiet a view from Domaine La Tour Vieille in Collioure, a picturesque town in French Catalonia on the Mediterranean coast, just north of the Spanish border. 

Cross the border and Garnache becomes Grenache. To experience Grenache-centric wines with a bit of ooh la la, we traveled to France's sunniest region; Roussillon. Shaped like an amphitheater and nestled in the South of France between Spain, the Mediterranean Sea, the Pyrenees & the Corbières Mountains, Roussillon is known for its diversity of wines & terroirs. Roussillon's various micro-climates beautifully showcase how Grenache is an excellent vessel for expressing the nuances of terroir. The region of France most committed to organic viticulture and biodynamic practices, Roussillon excels in presenting Grenache in all its splendor. 

Wine aging in glass demi-johns at Mas Amiel in Roussillon

Roussillon is France's largest producer of Vins Doux Naturels (Sweet Fortified Wines) that are PDO Certified (Protected Designation of Origen). One of the traditional methods of producing these unique wines is to accelerate their aging by placing the wine outside in glass demi-johns, rarely for more than a year, before they are taken inside to continue aging in casks, barrels, or tanks. Mas Amiel, an impressive estate with 200 years of history, has an impressive portfolio of fortified oxidized wines. 

90% Black Grenache, Mas Amiel '69 AOP Maury was aged for one year outside in glass demi-johns and another 38 years in oak casks. The grapes were harvested manually and de-stemmed. Extra alcohol was added, in a process known as mutage, directly onto the fruit and steeped for 30 days to extract the rich aromas and polyphenols from the grapes. An aromatic and voluptuous sweet wine that beautifully balances fruit, alcohol and sugar and shows the aging power of these wines. (The 1985 vintage is available in the US for about $85). 

Mas Amiel winemaker Nicolas Raffy with a bottle of their 2009 Vintage Charles Dupuy AOP Maury. 100% Grenache from vines dating back to 1914, this stunning and complex wine is named after the gentleman who acquired the estate in 1907. 

Domaine La Tour Vieille produces the Grenache based fortified dessert wine Banyuls. This Reserva Banyuls ($30) starts its journey in glass jars (demi-johns) that are aged for one year outdoors and then blended together into one tank. The final blend for each Reserva bottling includes this tank and wine with various other vintages from barrels and foudre (large wooden vats). 

Emmanuel Cazes, great-grandson of the winery's founder, joined the family business in 1997 and was an important part of Domaine Cazes' conversion to biodynamic and organic winemaking. 

Of course, Roussillon offers much more than sweet wines and their dry Grenache wines are exceptional and Cazes is the perfect place to begin your tasting journey. Founded in 1895, Cazes is located between the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean, in the heart of Roussillon in Rivesaltes. In 2005, Cazes became a certified organic and biodynamic estate. 

A blend of white and grey Grenache, Les Clos de Paulilles Blanc 2016 is graceful and refreshing with a sturdy mineral streak. 


Domaine Cazes Ego 2014 is a classic blend of Grenache, Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre. Ripe and rich with hints of Mediterranean herbs and plush tannins. 

During dinner in Perpignan, winemaker Jean-Roger Calvet of Domaine Thunevin-Calvet shared a bottle of his Maury 2014, a Vins Doux Naturels made from 100% Grenache Noir. In 2001, Jean-Roger had a fortuitous meeting with Jean-Luc Thunevin of Château Valandraud in St Emilion. Their first vintage was vinified in a garage, today they have 60 hectares and none of their vines are treated with pesticides or fertilizers.  


Domaine Thunevin-Calvet Cuvée Les Trois Marie 2011 is an elegant and sexy 100% Grenache Noir wine. 

"Winemakers around the world can do nothing without great tasting grapes, and great grapes need fantastic terroir. After seeing some of the world’s best, we realised that our own land, The Roussillon, had the potential to be considered among the finest terroirs of the world." - Jean-Marc Lafage

It isn't an exaggeration to call Jean-Marc and Eliane Lafage the winemaking power couple of Roussillon. These partners in wine, love, and life have traveled the world together making wine and realized their native land, Roussillon, had some of the best terroir and grapes in the world. Lafage's large portfolio of wines is a living encyclopedia of the region's viticulture. White, sparkling, red, dry, sweet; Lafage makes them all. Their land is an extended part of their family and they treat it with respect and invest a great deal of time in knowing the unique personality traits and microclimates of each plot. Their white wine Centenaire ($11) blends Grenache Blanc & Gris with Roussanne from 97 year old vines. Centenaire is an impressive balance of floral, mineral, and maritime flavors. Their Maury 2013 is a powerful and rich sweet wine with exemplary balance. 



Proving that Spain and France are indeed bound by Garnacha/Grenache, Jean-Marc partners with Bodegas San Alejandro in Calatayud on their Evodia Garnacha ($11)!  

Oh, the sacrifices I make for wine. The rain was so very good for the Garnacha grapes in Secastilla but not so great for my hair!

Wine is history, art, love, life. It provides sustenance for the body and soul. As I traveled through Spain and France on the Garnacha/Grenache trail, I was reminded of wine's ineffable power to create an instant kinship and connection between people. A bond is often created when you share a bottle of wine with someone. Some connections end when the bottle is emptied and others last a lifetime.  In a world where so much conflict is caused by our fear of each other's differences, wine reminds us of our shared humanity and inspires us to focus on joy and beauty. We need more of that in the world. Of course, Garnacha/Grenache isn't the only wine that captures this feeling, but perhaps in its versatility and strength, there is something endearingly human about this grape.