Wine With Wanda

The Class of 1972 Celebrates 50 Years of California Winemaking Excellence

The Class of 1972 is still going strong! Fifty years ago, some of California’s most important wineries were founded. Recently, six of these Napa & Sonoma trailblazers gathered for a surreal tasting, organized by Jordan winery, at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone, in St. Helena, California. 

Chateau Montelena, Jordan, Burgess, Diamond Creek, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, and Dry Creek Vineyard each shared a selection of three wines, including some impressive library vintages. 

Stag’s Leap took the assignment to heart and dazzled the group of professional wine tasters with a 1972 S.L.V Cabernet Sauvignon that displayed impressive vitality and grace at 50. (You may recall that 1973 Stag’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon won the Judgement of Paris in 1976, the legendary tasting that showed the world that California was a premier wine region.) 

Chateau Montelena’s 1973 Chardonnay won the Judgement of Paris tasting in the white wine category. And the 2002 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon they poured at the Class of 1972 tasting made a strong case for their prowess with red. 

Jordan knocked it out of the park with a 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Burgess charmed the group with a 1989 Cabernet Sauvignon, and Diamond Creek shined bright with their 1993 Red Rock Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon. And Dry Creek Vineyard turned heads with their 1994 Fumé Blanc, a complex and elegant expression of Sauvignon Blanc. 

Each of these wineries has a different winemaking style and terroir, but there are some shared perspectives. Being good stewards of the land, crafting wines that are an expression of terroir, and making wines that can stand the taste of time, are guiding principles that have allowed each winery to innovate, remain authentic, and navigate the changing landscape of consumer preferences.  

Now elders and not rookies, the Class of 1972 has proven themselves, but they’re not just coasting along; they embrace the challenge of stepping up to the plate each vintage. That’s a wise approach to wine and life! 

Will Travel for Wine: Jordan Winery, Alexander Valley, Sonoma

How far will you travel for a delicious glass of wine? I just returned from a whirlwind 36-hour trip out west to Sonoma and Napa – almost 3,000 miles from my home in NYC. And visiting Jordan winery in Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, was worth the jetlag and flight delays. I’ve enjoyed Jordan’s wines for years; photos of their estate have always sparked daydreams of sipping their wine in the Sonoma sunshine. Well, darlings, dreams do come true!

Thursday morning, we drove up Jordan’s dramatic one-mile-long driveway to reach their beautiful château, which houses the winery and tasting room. Founded in 1972, Jordan is situated on 1,200 acres, but vineyards only occupy about 120 acres of the vast estate. Why? Because of the diversity of the terroir, Jordan identified the best plots for their Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, and Malbec. The remaining 1000+ acres provide a wild and natural habitat for flora and fauna. Sustainability isn’t just talk at Jordan.

Jordan is laser-focused on doing three things: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and hospitality. Maggie Kruse leads the winemaking team at Jordan; she was a protégé of Rob Davis, who joined Jordan just before their first harvest in 1976 and retired in 2019 -- a tenure of more than 40 years!

Jordan pours their passion, resources, and know-how into producing only two wines each year: one Cabernet Sauvignon and one Chardonnay. Inspired by the wines of France, Jordan’s style is balanced and not jammy, with vibrant but not over-ripe fruit, bright acidity, smooth tannins, and finesse. Their precise work in the vineyards and the cellar captures the nuances of each vintage while conveying the signature Jordan style.

And Jordan’s hospitality is top-notch. I enjoyed an excellent tasting and tour, led by with enthusiasm & expertise by Jordan team member Hannah Ingwerson, which included peeks into the château’s secret passageways, and delicious food & wine pairings. They have olive trees too and produce a superb oil.

By Old World standards, fifty is young for a winery, but the Jordan family is an example of New World vision and grit; they are Sonoma trailblazers. Happy 50th, Jordan!

EnRoute Winery Explores the Essence of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Michael Accurso, winemaker, EnRoute
image courtesy of EnRoute

During my recent Instagram Live chat with EnRoute winemaker Michael Accurso, I discovered that his passion for Pinot Noir is only rivaled by his great sense of humor and love of cooking. That certainly makes sense: if he hadn't become a winemaker, Michael considered careers as a professional chef or comedian! But don't let his easygoing nature fool you; Michael is a precise and serious winemaker.

Founded in 2007 by the partners of Far Niente winery in Napa Valley, EnRoute is committed to crafting wines that express the essence of Pinot Noir from Sonoma's Russian River Valley. Michael describes the diverse terroir of EnRoute's vineyards as a spice rack because of the different elevations, range of soil types, and various clones. Michael draws from this spice rack of flavors to make EnRoute's unique expressions of single-vineyard Pinot Noir wines and the Les Pommiers blend. 

Click the video above, or watch on IGTV or YouTube, to learn more about EnRoute, what makes the Russian River Valley so special, and Michael's favorite food pairings with EnRoute Pinot Noir -- he really loves duck and wild mushrooms!


During our chat, we sipped EnRoute “Les Pommiers” Pinot Noir 2018, Russian River Valley ($60), and EnRoute “Northern Spy Vineyard” Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley ($85). Les Pommiers blends Pinot Noir grapes primarily from EnRoute's vineyards in the Green Valley and upper Middle Reach areas of the Russian River Valley AVA. Fresh and vibrant with pristine red fruit flavors and hints of earth, Michael describes Les Pommiers as the quintessential Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Northern Spy Vineyard is crafted 100% from Pinot Noir grapes grown from a single-vineyard in the Green River Valley. Richer and more intense, its plush red fruit flavors are accented by hints of spice and forest floor. Both wines are beautifully balanced and full of life. 

From Bordeaux and Sonoma, With Love: The Wines of Château Lassègue and Vérité

Nicolas & Christina Seillan

I can’t resist beautiful wines and a great love story, and my recent Instagram Live chat with Christina and Nicolas Seillan delivered both. A seventh-generation winemaker, Nicolas is the vigneron at Château Lassègue in Bordeaux and manages production with his wife, Christina. Back in the USA, his father, Pierre Seillan and his daughter Hélène are the winemaker and assistant winemaker at Vérité in Sonoma. Both wineries are a joint venture with Jackson Family Wines. And if you ever doubted the power of wine to bring people together, Nicolas and Christina met when he addressed a wine group that she belonged to -- the Yale Law Wine Society.

During our chat, we discussed the history of both wineries, the common threads between the wines that the family produces in Bordeaux and Sonoma, and why we shouldn’t overthink wine and lose sight that “wine is something that’s meant to be enjoyed and shared.” To watch the entire conversation, click the video above, or watch on IGTV, or YouTube. 


While chatting, we sipped Lassègue Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2016 ($60) and Vérité Le Désir 2016 ($425). Both red blends are bold and elegant with an authentic sense of place and examples of meticulous and passionate winemaking.

Wine Wisdom: Tough Vintages Don’t Scare St. Francis Winemaker Katie Madigan

“It’s not about having an amazing vintage but making amazing wine despite the vintage.”
Katie Madigan 

Watching winemaker Katie Madigan swirl her gleaming glass of 2017 St. Francis Chardonnay in a dark Manhattan steakhouse, it's hard to imagine the obstacles that were overcome to produce that joyous glass of wine.


Even before the fires that swept through Sonoma in 2017, Katie recalls that it was shaping up to be an extremely difficult harvest because of heat spikes late in the season that revved up ripening. Although, all of the Chardonnay grapes were picked prior to the fires, St. Francis did lose power. Sneaking into the winery, Katie and her team discovered that the grapes had started fermenting because of the loss of temperature control in the tanks. “I feel like this wine kind of made itself,” laughed Katie. 

Not easily discouraged by circumstances beyond her control, Katie said, “I respect difficult vintages. They teach you a lot. They teach you what you can handle.” Katie's career has made it clear that she doesn't shy away from a challenge. She joined St. Francis in 2002 as an intern and became a winemaker in 2011. She inherited her love of Chardonnay from her mom, who likes to sip it while she's cooking!

Katie believes that Chardonnay should be fresh and the 2017 meets that ideal. With crisp citrus and apple flavors with a touch of butterscotch and cream, it has great brightness and minerality. She was so impressed by the quality of the 2017 Chardonnay, Katie is figuring out ways to mimic the conditions that nurtured its creation – minus the fires, of course. Very food-friendly, this Chardonnay pairs beautifully with sea food and poultry. A great buy at around $17! 


St. Francis is also known for their portfolio of red wines. I’m particularly fond of their Zinfandel, which accounts for 1/3 of their production. The Zins may not have the dramatic backstory of the 2017 Chardonnay but these powerful reds certainly tell a story. 

St. Francis Old Vines Zinfandel 2016, Sonoma County ($22)
Crafted from vines at least 50 years old, and many as old as 100, Katie said this wine is meant to allure you with the aromas and not too much oak. Big and juicy, it has luscious flavors of ripe black cherries with a kiss of spice. Pair with burgers, pizza, and BBQ.

St. Francis Reserve Zinfandel 2016, Dry Creek Valley ($45)
Bigger and more robust, Katie said this Zinfandel was meant to be more over the top. A bit of Petite Sirah was added to contribute color and texture. Powerful but balanced, it is meaty and rich with flavors of blackberries, raspberry, and perky pops of peppercorn. A great steakhouse wine! 

If you're planning a trip to Sonoma, St. Francis welcomes visitors for a variety of wine tasting experiences. 

If You’re Not Drinking Merlot, You’re Missing Out!

 

image courtesy of MerlotMe

It baffles and perturbs me that some wine drinkers are still shunning Merlot. Really, if THAT movie (Sideways) has placed negative thoughts about Merlot in your head, please consider this an intervention. Now is the time to replace that problematic film’s erroneous messaging with this mantra: Merlot is elegant. Merlot is delicious. Merlot bashers are missing out on some mighty fine wine.

image courtesy of MerlotMe

Praised for its lushness and approachability, Merlot isn't aggressive but it's no wimp; it absolutely has the capacity for power and finesse. I was recently invited to participate in the #MerlotMe campaign, an online effort focused on sharing the diversity and beauty of Merlot. I was happy to add my voice to the powerful chorus of Merlot lovers.  

During the duration of the campaign, I tasted many excellent wines that were powerful examples of Merlot's many charms. However, there were three wines that really captivated me. Whether you’re a Merlot devotee or one of those pesky detractors, I’m convinced these wines will impress you. And although my selections are from California, great Merlot wines are produced around the globe. Get a glass and explore!


Pahlmeyer Merlot 2016, Napa Valley, California ($90) 
What a majestic Merlot! I shared this bottle with one of the most discerning sommeliers I know and he shared my enthusiasm for this exceptional wine. Truly, he can’t stop singing its praises. And I can’t blame him. Pahlmeyer is an elegant retort to Merlot bashing. Rich and concentrated but not unwieldy, it is supple and rich with voluptuous berry flavors and sassy hints of spice and tinges of earth and herbs. As the flavors open in the glass, it really takes you on a journey. This is a wine to savor.
96.5% Merlot, 2.5% Malbec, 1% Cabernet Sauvignon


Seavey Merlot 2016, Napa Valley, California ($65)
Plush and rich, this impressive wine beautifully showcases Merlot’s capacity for complexity and finesse. Gorgeous plum and dark berry flavors get added oomph from hints of savory herbs, violet, graphite, and chocolate. There’s a rugged minerality to this Merlot that melds seamlessly with the voluptuous fruit. Only 302 cases made of this sensational sip.
95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon

Chelsea Goldschmidt Merlot 2017, Salmon’s Leap, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California ($20)
Named after winemaker Nick Goldschmidt’s daughter, Chelsea Merlot is feisty and elegant. Rich and juicy but not jammy, Chelsea has ripe red and black fruit flavors with perky pops of spice and graphite. A really pretty and polished wine that doesn’t break the bank!
100% Merlot

From Drinking with Dad to Running the Show: Winemaker Jamie Benziger of Imagery Estate Winery

Jamie Benziger, Winemaker, Imagery Estate Winery

"Dad didn't raise daughters, he raised drinking buddies!" As soon as second generation winemaker Jamie Benziger uttered those words, I knew our wine tasting would be even more fun than most.

If you're a fan of wines from Sonoma, the Benziger name and the family's high-quality organic wines are bound to be familiar. In the 1980's Joe Benziger, Jamie's father, wanted to branch out from the family business and created a sister winery, Imagery Estate Winery. 

Crafting wines that are familiar yet unconventional, Imagery blends traditional varietals with a twist. Have you ever tasted Chardonnay blended with a dash of Chenin Blanc? Or what about Sauvignon Blanc with a hint of Muscat? These unexpected yet delicious blends exist in the Imagery universe.

Joe Benziger retired in 2017 and told Jamie, the second-born of his three daughters, 'It's your turn now. You got this." Indeed, she does. Not only was Jamie born into a winemaking family and has years of hands-on experience earned at the Benziger estates in Sonoma, her pursuit of wine knowledge led Jamie to spend time working at other wineries, including in New Zealand. Jamie has paid her dues and proven herself more than prepared to lead Imagery towards a fabulous future. 

Jamie describes Imagery Chardonnay 2017 ($17) as the "patio pounder of Chardonnays." Mostly Chardonnay (90%) with a kiss of Chenin Blanc (10%) to make it pop, this minimally oaked white wine is pleasingly juicy with vibrant flavors of green apple, citrus, and melon. A real crowd-pleaser with a tasty twist! 

Sauvignon Blanc (85%) blended with Muscat (15%), Imagery Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ($17) is a welcome alternative to aggressively zingy Sauvignon Blanc wines. The dry Muscat adds great texture that softens the lemon, lime, and grapefruit flavors. 

Imagery Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($20) gets a sassy kick of spice from the addition of Petite Sirah (15%). Juicy and earthy with mouthwatering flavors of blackberry, pepper, clove, and toast; this is a fantastic BBQ wine. 

If you're planning a trip to Sonoma, Imagery welcomes visitors for tastings. Their portfolio is quite expansive and includes everything from Albariño to Viognier. Art is also an important part of Imagery's identity and over the years they have commissioned original label artwork from many well-known contemporary artists. The entire collection contains works of art by more than 300 artists and around 60 pieces are on view in the gallery. 

Talent and Travel Texture the Wines of Jesse Katz's Aperture Cellars

"Building texture is what elevates good wine to a great wine."
Jesse Katz, Founder & Winemaker, Aperture Cellars

A conversation with Jesse Katz could easily make you feel like an underachiever but he's so humble and charming that you feel inspired instead of diminished. Jesse has achieved major success very early in his career -- the first winemaker included on the Forbes "30 Under 30" list, recognized by Wine Enthusiast as a "40 Under 40 Tastemaker", and the recognition of his Aperture Cellars as a "Rising Star" by Wine Spectator are just a few of this 35 year-old's impressive accomplishments. 

A native of Colorado, Jesse's career as a winemaker was set into motion at a young age when he traveled the world with his father, acclaimed photographer Andy Katz. Excellence is clearly in the Katz DNA because more than 6 million albums with cover photography by Andy Katz have been sold, including those by legendary rock groups like the Doobie Brothers. Wine is also a passion and frequent photographic subject of the elder Katz and Jesse spent his formative years accompanying him on journeys to some of the world's most famous wineries.

Jesse told me that he discovered his exceptionally good palate as a young man in Burgundy and by the age of 18 he knew that winemaking was his destiny. Honing his natural talent with hands-on experience by working the harvest at 15 wineries on multiple continents, Jesse also earned an enology degree from Fresno State University. After an accolade filled five-year tenure at Lancaster Estate, Jesse started Aperture Cellars in Sonoma. A collaboration with his father, Aperture is an artistic double-whammy: the labels feature Andy Katz's photography and the bottles contain Jesse's artful wines.

Aperture Barrel-Fermented Sauvignon Blanc 2018 ($40)
Inspired by Jesse's time in Bordeaux, this barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc balances lush creaminess with vibrant acidity. Rich and round but impressively fresh, crisp, and graceful with no overly zesty or harsh grassy flavors. (I tasted the 2017 vintage but 2018 is now available.)

Aperture Right Bank Red Blend 2016 ($55)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (52%), Merlot (30%), Malbec (11%), and Cabernet Franc (7%), this silky yet substantial red wine beautifully expresses Jesse's talent at crafting wines where texture is not an afterthought but an important factor in flavor perception. Bold and juicy with well-integrated tannins, there is an elegant interplay between freshness and complexity. Fermented with native yeasts, unfiltered, and unfined, the smooth texture really allows the excellent quality of the grapes to shine through.


Aperture Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($70) 
Silky and spicy, a kiss of Merlot (7%) rounds out this Cabernet. The flavors are deep yet very fresh. Impressive balance and depth. 

Visit the Aperture Cellars website to learn more about these wines and others in the Aperture portfolio. And if you're looking for further proof that Jesse is the real deal, he is also the founder of Devil Proof Vineyards which produces highly acclaimed 100% Malbec. I don't know what's next for Jesse but his impressive track record bodes well for future endeavors and certainly has me intrigued! 

Sonoma Shines Through in the Wines of St. Francis Winery & Vineyards

 Winemaker Chris Louton and the team at St. Francis Winery & Vineyards are committed to producing wines with a distinct regional character where the terroir of Sonoma shines through. 
 
For us unabashed wine geeks, wine is nothing short of a spiritual experience and Sonoma is one of the sacred places. Even if you've never made the pilgrimage to Sonoma, if you love the wine you're a member of the tribe. Named after the patron saint of animals, ecology, and merchants; St. Francis Winery & Vineyards has been crafting wines from Sonoma County's best appellations for more than 30 years and is known for their fruit-forward and food-friendly wines.

A statue of St. Francis of Assisi greets winery guests at the Visitors Center. 

I recently had the pleasure of sharing a few St. Francis wines with winemaker Chris Louton. A native Californian, Chris became enamored of wine in college and left behind his pursuit of veterinary medicine to enroll in the prestigious viticulture and enology program at the University of California, Davis. Chris has been at St. Francis since 2013 (he was previously at Beringer Vineyards in Napa) and shares winemaking duties with Katie Madigan. Chris calls their division of labor "divide & conquer" - he focuses on the Bordeaux varietals and Katie's responsibilities include the production of Zinfandel and Chardonnay. 

St. Francis Winery welcomes visitors for tours and tastings. Their restaurant has been selected as one of the 100 Best Restaurants in America by OpenTable diners. 

St. Francis is a regional leader in green practices and in 2013 they were officially certified as a Sustainable Vineyard and Winery -- their namesake would surely be proud. My guided tasting with Chris was my first experience with St. Francis wines and I was impressed by their easy elegance - beautifully crafted but unpretentious.


St. Francis Winery Sonoma County Chardonnay 2014 ($16.99)
Vibrant and pretty with flavors of fresh apple and pear that are revved up by hints of pineapple and vanilla cream. 
 

 St. Francis Winery Reserve Merlot Sonoma Valley 2014 ($39.99)
Stop ignoring Merlot, it can't be beat when you're craving a juicy and luscious wine. This classic beauty is elegant with flavors of succulent plum and hints of chocolate. 


St. Francis Winery Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2014 ($39.99)
Delicious proof that a California Cabernet can be powerful without being obnoxious, this sophisticated sip has classic flavors of black currant and blackberry with a savory touch of spice and cedar. 

St. Francis Winery Reserve Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley 2014 ($39.99)
Crafted from vines 50-100 years old, this is an excellent expression of old vine Zinfandel. Velvety, juicy, and spicy with lingering flavors of black cherries and spice. 

From the Benziger Family to Yours: Authentic & Expressive Sonoma Wines

"Ours is a family winery in the truest sense, it is operated by Benzigers. My family loves sharing our Estate ranch and providing guests with an agrarian experience that you will not get anywhere else. We farm for flavors and craft wine with a distinct sense of place. Our roots run deep and this authenticity resonates with our customers." - Chris Benziger

A conversation with Chris Benziger is a poignant reminder that every bottle of wine tells a story. The wines of Benziger Family Winery beautifully express a family's commitment to their land, winemaking, and each other. For more than 30 years, the Benziger family has farmed their ranch on Sonoma Mountain to craft quality wines that authentically express the terroir. All Benziger wines are certified organic, sustainable, or biodynamic. 

image courtesy of Benziger

Chris is the vice president of trade relations for Benziger Family Winery but he isn't afraid to get his hands dirty - he also oversees important farm duties like shepherding the sheep and cows, and tending the estate's fruit and vegetable trees. He believes that "the only way to communicate the quality of the wines he promotes is by having the soil from the vineyard in which he’s endorsing under his nails."

I recently had the pleasure of sharing several Benziger wines with Chris when he was in New York City for their cool "Benziger in the City" pop-up tasting room. The festive pop-up brought a bit of Sonoma to the Big Apple and featured Benziger wines, Sonoma inspired cuisine, and even extra virgin olive oil from their estate. Benziger has an impressive portfolio and I recommend these three delicious wines as an introduction to their style. 

Paradiso de Maria Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ($36)
A refreshing wine that beautifully balances fresh & juicy fruit flavors with crisp minerality, this elegant sip is a tribute to Mary Benziger. She discovered this property in 1979 alongside her daughter Erinn and husband Mike, and selected the site to produce her dream wine. "Bursting with aromas of citrus and honeysuckle with a fresh entry that gives the palate a pleasing pop of green plum and apple." Demeter Certified Biodynamic

Signaterra Sunny Slope Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ($59) 
A big, graceful, and velvety wine that is perfect for cool winter nights. "Abundant in blackberry, boysenberry, toasted oak, and plum jam flavors, with mocha, coffee, and dark chocolate aromas."

Tribute Estate Blend 2013 ($85)
A Bordeaux style blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, Tribute is made entirely from estate-grown grapes. Tribute was the first Demeter-certified Biodynamic® wine from Sonoma County and one of the first from North America.  A rich and regal wine with gorgeous flavors of dark fruit, coffee, vanilla and herbs. 


image courtesy of Benziger

These three wines are just a snapshot of the Benziger portfolio, visit their website to browse an array of wines at various price points. If you're planning a trip to Sonoma, Benziger welcomes guests for tours and tastings.