Wine With Wanda

The Lighter Side of Bordeaux: White Wines With Style & Substance

The Wonder Women of Bordeaux - Valérie Vialard (Château Latour Martillac), Valérie Lavigne (University of Bordeaux, Institute of Vine and Sciences), Corinne Comme (Château du Champ des Treilles), and Cécile Ha (Wines of Bordeaux). 

Winemaking isn't for the weak. From the vine to the cellar; authentic winemaking demands patience, intuition, innovation, and a multitude of strengths. A group of women winemakers from Bordeaux have proven themselves in possession of all these traits, and more, as they challenge the notion that wines from Bordeaux are overpriced, old-fashioned, and always red. While hoity-toity wines remain an important part of Bordeaux's identity, the region isn't stuck in a time warp. Bordeaux is also home to modern and accessibly priced wines and I was reminded by these dynamic winemakers that its fantastic dry white wines should not be overlooked.

Located in Southwest France along the Atlantic coast, Bordeaux produces all styles of wine and dry whites represent about 9% of the total production - almost 58 million bottles. Although single varietal offerings of Sauvignon Blanc have become increasingly popular, Bordeaux whites are usually blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon; small amounts of Muscadelle sometimes play a supporting role.


Sauvignon Blanc grapes
image courtesy of Vins de Bordeaux

Native to the region, Sauvignon Blanc is often the main grape in dry white Bordeaux blends and brings freshness, high acidity, and vibrant aromas of grapefruit, lemon, tropical fruits, herbs, and grass. Sémillon balances out Sauvignon Blanc's zest with texture, roundness, aging potential and beguiling aromas of apricot and honey. Muscadelle is rarely more than 10% of the blend but just a small amount can enhance the wine with aromatic complexity. 

The warmer weather is the perfect season to explore crisp, aromatic, and refreshing dry white wines from Bordeaux. The wines may incorporate the same grapes in their blend but each winemaker does so in unique combinations that best express their vision and terroir. From fresh and fruity to more structured and mineral-driven wines, there really is a white Bordeaux for every palate, meal, and occasion. Start your exploration of Bordeaux whites with one of these six sensational wines.  



Château du Champ des Treilles Vin Passion 2016 ($15) is an impressive wine at an incredibly accessible price. A blend of essentially equal parts of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle; this nuanced white wine beautifully expresses the character of its 68-year-old vines and limestone & clay soils. 

I had the pleasure of tasting this lovely white Bordeaux with winemaker Corinne Comme. In 1997, Corinne and her husband Jean-Michel took over the familial vineyards from his grandfather and they opted to put their belief in biodynamics to practice. In addition to her work as a viticulturist, Corrine travels the world consulting estates on their conversions to biodynamic winemaking.  

Château Peybonhomme-Les-Tours 2016 ($24)
A balanced and expressive blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes that were farmed on the largest certified biodynamic estate in Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. Full-bodied with impressive minerality and freshness. 



Cháteau Latour Martillac 2015 ($36)
Creamy, smooth, and a little smoky - a very nuanced and sensual blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. 



Château Roquefort 2016 ($13)
This vivacious wine is mostly Sauvignon Blanc with a dash of Sémillon. Luscious and full with juicy tropical fruit flavors and perky acidity. 



Clos des Lunes Lune Blanche 2015 ($18)
Normally second fiddle, Sémillon (70%) has the starring role in this blend and Sauvignon Blanc plays an important supporting role at 30%. Crafted from grapes  grown in a vineyard located in the Sauternes region, which is renowned for Bordeaux's legendary sweet wines, this dry white wine impressively balances the line between complexity and easy drinkability. Fresh, mineral, and juicy with a satisfying and sassy tinge of salinity. 



Dourthe La Grande Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ($13)
If you want to sip Sauvignon Blanc in all its splendor, this elegant wine shows off the pristine beauty of the grape from diverse terroirs across the Bordeaux appellation. Full and fresh, seductively aromatic with crispy minerality and refreshing acidity. An elegant and unique expression of Sauvignon Blanc. 

To learn more about dry white wines from Bordeaux, visit the Wines of Bordeaux website.

The Legend is Still Relevant: Robert Mondavi Winery

Robert Mondavi Winery 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve,To Kalon Vineyard ($165), is an exceptional example of the winery's continued commitment to crafting elegant and expressive wines in Napa Valley.

 
Sometimes we take legends for granted. They become so ingrained in our everyday lives that we forget of a time before they blazed the trail. It isn't an exaggeration to say that the late Robert Mondavi changed the course of the American wine industry when he founded his eponymous winery in Napa Valley, California in 1966. Mondavi's determination and talent showed the world that America could indeed produce fine wine. Mr. Mondavi passed away in 2008 but the winery remains not just a symbol of American winemaking excellence but is respected as a leader that embraces both tradition and innovation. 


Robert Mondavi Winery is widely hailed as an architectural masterpiece.
image courtesy of Robert Mondavi Winery

Mondavi's tremendous success paved the way for many other fine winemakers in Napa Valley but I suspect, that for many of us, the first quality Napa Valley wines we sipped had the Mondavi name on the label. The winery is no longer owned by the Mondavi family but the winemaking team is committed to their founder's vision. Director of Winemaking, Geneviève Janssens, first worked at the winery in 1978 and has been at the helm of winemaking since 1997 and said, "We continue to follow Robert Mondavi's inspiration, with a holistic philosophy of growing our grapes naturally and making wines naturally - fine, balanced wines that harmonize with food."

Yours truly with author, television host, and dinner party host extraordinaire Ted Allen. 

I recently experienced a taste of that Mondavi magic at a very special dinner in Brooklyn hosted by author and television personality Ted Allen ("Chopped", "Queer Eye") at a breathtaking Brooklyn mansion. The festive evening featured a creative menu prepared by Chef Theo Friedman of Theory Kitchen, the elegant wines of Robert Mondavi, and charming winemaker Joe Harden. 

Winemaker Joe Harden oversees the red wine program at Robert Mondavi Winery and works on their Bordeaux varietals.  

It almost seems destined that Joe would land at Mondavi. He grew up in Lodi, California and in the early 1990's his parents planted 30 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon vines on the family estate in Woodbridge. Fruit from the Harden family vineyard was ultimately sold to the Robert Mondavi Winery and Joe recalls a childhood meeting with Mr. Mondavi when he joined his father on a visit to the winery in Napa Valley. "What I remember most, is the warmth of his presence and how down to earth he was." 

Joe also has a warm personality and standing tall at 6'7'', he is inevitably asked if he plays basketball. He did. And his impressive hoop skills earned Joe a scholarship to Notre Dame University. Finding the Indiana winter brutal, Joe returned to California and graduated from UC Davis with a degree in Viticulture and Oenology. After graduating, Joe still felt torn between his two passions - winemaking and basketball. Deciding to give basketball another chance, he tested the waters professionally and played on teams in the US and abroad. But the lure of winemaking proved impossible to resist and a serendipitous interview in 2012 with Geneviève Janssens (director of winemaking at Robert Mondavi Winery) led Joe to a one-year internship at the winery. In 2013, Joe joined the winery as a full-time enologist and in 2014, he was asked to take the prestigious role of winemaker for the red wine program at Mondavi, working on their Bordeaux varietals. "I have to pinch myself frequently to make sure this isn't a dream," said Joe.


Chef Theo Friedman's Hudson Valley Duck Breast with Cocoa and Malt Glaze, Preserved Berries & Maitake paired beautifully with the Robert Mondavi Winery 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, To Kalon Vineyard. 

I felt as if I were in a bit of a dream state as I looked around the gorgeous table and artistic cuisine, the glasses filled with Mondavi wines, and Joe effortlessly guiding us through the tasting experience. The mansion and VIP guests were certainly a thrill but the Mondavi wines stood on their own. Here are a few of the wines that Joe shared with us on that early summer evening in Brooklyn. Even if you're not in a mansion, these Mondavi wines will elevate any occasion. 


Robert Mondavi 2014 "Fumé Blanc", Oakville District ($40)
Inspired and impressed by the fine white wines of the Loire, Robert Mondavi made history when he coined the term "Fumé Blanc" for a dry style of Sauvignon Blanc. In California, Sauvignon Blanc had generally been used to make sweet, ordinary table wines so Fumé Blanc was a game changer and a tremendous success when it was formally released in 1968. The 2014 Oakville Fumé Blanc blends Sauvignon Blanc (79%) with Semillon (21%). The grapes were harvested from Mondavi's legendary To Kalon Vineyard, which surrounds the winery and is one of Napa Valley's oldest and most respected vineyards. A vibrant and elegant wine with elegant flavors of exuberant lemon verbena, lime blossom, and a hint of fennel. 



Robert Mondavi  2014 "Fumé Blanc" Reserve, To Kalon Vineyard, Napa Valley ($52)
To Kalon is Greek for highest beauty and the Fumé Blanc Reserve is described as a true expression of the vineyard's historic Robert's Block, which was first planted in 1960. More than half of the Sauvignon Blanc in this elegant wine was sourced from Robert's Block. The exceptional character of the Sauvignon Blanc really shines in the Fumé Blanc Reserve, where it comprises 98% of the blend and  includes a 2% kiss of Semillon. Energetic flavors of tangerine and crisp Asian pear gracefully mesh with hints of fennel and thyme. Crisp minerality adds texture and enhances nuance. 

Robert Mondavi "Maestro" 2014, Napa Valley ($50)
Inspired by their limited-release 50th Anniversary Maestro, this beautiful red is also an artistic and free-spirited interpretation of a Bordeaux blend. Cabernet Sauvignon (73%), Cabernet Franc (23%), Merlot (2%), and Petit Verdot (2%), are weaved together masterfully in this show-stopping vino. Rich and juicy flavors of plum and cassis with hints of violet, unsweetened cocoa and spice are in harmony with velvety tannins. 


image courtesy of Robert Mondavi Winery

Just because Mondavi is a familiar name, doesn't mean that you can't be excited and surprised by their wines. These wines are made with care and attention that respect their Napa Valley legacy and elegantly express a sense of place. From a simple salad to haute cuisine, Mondavi has a well-crafted wine to match your mood and lifestyle. I'm certainly inspired to explore more of their wines and a visit to Robert Mondavi Winery ranks high on my wine wish list. 

The Bordeaux Surprise: These Excellent French Wines Aren't Always Expensive!

image courtesy of ©HarlemEatUp!_DanielDaPhotography

It's no secret that the wines of Bordeaux enjoy an exalted status among connoisseurs and collectors willing to spend impressive sums on these celebrated wines from the southwest of France. However, the big Bordeaux surprise is that the region produces an incredible selection of excellent wines at very affordable prices. These wines aren't just for drinkers with deep pockets - for less than $20 you can sip a bit of that Bordeaux magic!



Mary Gorman-McAdams (Master of Wine and market advisor to the Bordeaux Wine Council), Chef Marcus Samuelsson, and a bottle of Bordeaux at the Harlem EatUp! Festival.
image courtesy of ©HarlemEatUp!_DanielDaPhotography

Lest you think Bordeaux is old-fashioned and fussy, modestly priced Bordeaux wines are showing up in some very cool and unexpected places. Bordeaux has been poured at dinners and tastings at the annual Harlem EatUp! festival since its inception in 2015. Harlem EatUp! was co-founded by renowned Chef Marcus Samuelsson and Mary Gorman-McAdams (Master of Wine and market advisor to the Bordeaux Wine Council) was the catalyst for Bordeaux's partnership with the festival. The wines poured at the festival showed that modestly priced Bordeaux is still of excellent quality and can pair beautifully with a wide variety of cuisine from soul food to sushi, and Italian to Indian.




Bordeaux refers to the region and the wines produced there. Bordeaux's signature red grapes are Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. The white grapes are Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Muscadelle.

I recently met with Mary and asked her to recommend five delicious and affordable Bordeaux wines. Here are Mary's picks!


Château La Mouliniere Rosé, Bordeaux 2015 ($10)
This lovely and well-structured rosé is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,  and Merlot - a fantastic way to experience the red grapes that are the backbone of the classic Bordeaux red blend. Dry, fresh, and fruity with lovely flavors of raspberry and strawberry; this is a great summer sip. Built in the late 16th century, Château La Mouliniere is a single-estate vineyard located on the right bank of the Dordogne River near Saint-Emilion.



Château Marjosse, Entre-Deux-Mers, Blanc 2014 ($17)
This gorgeous white wine comes from an impressive pedigree - Château Marjosse is the home estate for Pierre Lurton - the managing director of two legendary First Growth Bordeaux estates (Château Cheval Blanc and Château d'Yquem). Entre-Deux-Mers means "between two seas" and refers to the area of Bordeaux between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers. This refreshing white wine beautifully combines the region's signature grapes Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Sauvignon Gris, and Muscadelle to create a wine that Mary describes as "fruity and versatile" and with enough elegance and style to bring to a dinner party. 



Château Tour de Goupin, Bordeaux Blanc 2014 ($12)
Described as "dry with a light floral bouquet, crisp textures, and a clean finish," this blend of Sauvignon, Semillon, and Muscadelle is produced on an estate that avoids pesticides and chemicals in the vineyard. 



Château Recougne Bordeaux Superieur 2012 ($15)
Château Recougne has produced wine for more than 400 years and its name is said to have come from King Henri IV in the early 17th century in "recognition" of the quality of its wines. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is described as "supple, round, and generous."



Château Capbern Gasqueton, Saint Estephe 2014 ($19)
Owned by the Gasqueton family for 10 generations, Château Capbern is known for producing charming wines with enough structure to age 10-20 years. Mary says that "you don't have to spend a lot of money to start a collection of wine. It isn't just a rich man's sport. Modest wines can age well." This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot is an incredibly affordable way to start your Bordeaux collection. "Hints of smoke, tobacco, licorice, mocha, and earthiness wrap around a core of dark fruit in an exuberant wine loaded with pure textural richness" that will develop beautifully over time.


La Cité du Vin

If you're planning a trip to France, now is an especially exciting time to visit Bordeaux - the stunning vineyards and elegant châteaux have a shiny new neighbor - La Cité du Vin. "An immersive and sensory adventure showcasing the cultures and civilizations of wine," La Cité du Vin is a stunning architectural statement that is meant to evoke the essence and soul of wine. Visitors can experience a variety of interactive experiences, art installations, restaurants, and plenty of wine! A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Bordeaux was #2 on The New York Times list "52 Places to Go in 2016" - impressive!