Organic and gorgeous Garnacha grapes at Las Moradas de San Martín in Spain.
Spain and France may speak different languages but these two wine-loving cultures are bound by Garnacha. Known as Grenache in French, Garnacha is one of the most widely planted grapes in the world but it truly thrives in its place of origin: the hot and dry Mediterranean terrain of eastern Spain and southern France. (It also has a strong presence in the Italian region of Sardinia where it is called Cannonau.)
For many years, Garnacha was best known as a blending grape but it is finally in the spotlight as a superb single varietal sip with the power and presence to stand on its own. An amazingly versatile grape that can produce a dynamic range of white, rosé, red, and fortified wines; there truly is a Garnacha/Grenache for every palate. Recently, I traveled to several regions of Spain and to Roussillon in the south of France for an unparalleled Garnacha adventure. You don't need a passport to go on your very own Garnacha/Grenache tasting tour, many of my suggested wines can be found at your local wine shop. Others may require some effort, or a trip abroad, but they're worth it.
Madrid
Las Moradas de San Martín winemaker Isabel Galindo speaks of the soil, vines, and wine as being alive. Isabel has a minimalist approach to winemaking so that Garnacha is the star and not overpowered.
My Garnacha journey began in Spain, about an hour from Madrid, at Las Moradas de San Martín. Garnacha is Spain's most widely planted wine grape but I had no idea that vineyards existed so close to the bustling metropolis of Madrid and that there is actually a Vinos de Madrid D.O. (Denominación de Origen). Committed to organic and sustainable wine production, Las Moradas is striking for its seemingly lack of human intervention. Instead of perfectly aligned rows of vines, these hardy and gnarled Garnacha vines just seem to be touched by Mother Nature and allowed to follow their own path. With vines averaging 70-80 years old and some as old as 100, Las Moradas is an Eden of Garnacha.
Las Moradas de San Martín Initio 2010 ($20) is a stellar example of Garnacha's elegance, personality, and aging potential. Amazingly fresh and vibrant at 8 years old, I agree with the winemaker that the wine tastes alive. Intense and concentrated red fruit flavors are bolstered by hints of the wild herbs and flowers that share the idyllic terrain with the grapevines.
Cariñena
Still in Spain, we followed the Garnacha trail to Cariñena, in the heart of the Ebro Valley, in Zaragoza/Aragon. Cariñena may not be a household name but it certainly has history - wine has been produced there since the Roman era and it received DO status in 1932. Cariñena's high-altitude vineyards with ancient stone soils and old vines, produce wines with complexity, depth, and character. The region's dramatic swings in temperature promote even ripening of the grapes and flavor development. Almost 100% of the region's production focuses on red wines.
Bodegas San Valero Particular Viñas Centenarias 2012 ($12.99) is an excellent introduction to the impressive and affordable wines of Cariñena. Limited-production from their oldest vines (100 years old!), this vino is rich and complex.
Another old-vine beauty, Bodegas Paniza Viñas Viejas 2012 ($13) is made with high-altitude, old vines that are up to 100 years old. Rich fruit with a touch of smoky spice.
Campo de Borja
There would be no wine without the hardworking men and women that harvest the grapes. Such a beautiful smile from this gentleman working the rocky soils of Fuendejalón for Bodegas Aragonesas.
A very confident Campo de Borja has deemed themselves the "Great Empire of Garnacha!" Established in 1990, this relatively young DO has more than 16,000 acres under vine in the Zaragoza/Aragon region and is celebrated for red Garnacha wines that are fresh and energetic. Bodegas Aragonesas has a passionate devotion to Garnacha and say, "We express our love of Garnacha both on the land and in the winery. We know that it is an essential part of our heritage, and we do our best to continuously improve our methods of cultivation and winemaking."
Bodegas Aragonesas produces one of my favorite Garnacha wines from Spain - Coto de Hayas Garnacha Centenaria 2016 ($11). Consistently delicious, this super juicy and delightfully fresh vino captures the vitality and joy of Garnacha from Campo de Borja.
Calatayud
Dynamic young winemakers Jorge Temprado and Juanvi Alcañiz are making wonderfully expressive wines with Garnacha at Bodegas San Alejandro in Calatayud.
"Regal reds from a rugged land" is an apt description of wines from Calatayud in Zaragoza/Aragon. The Calatayud DO was established in 1990 but vine cultivation in this steep mountainous area dates back to the 2nd century BC. Founded in 1962, Bodegas San Alejandro is one of the most important wineries in the region. Old vines combined with soaring altitudes create wines with impressive structure and minerality.
Bodegas San Alejandro Las Rocas Garnacha 2015 ($17.99) is an excellent expression of terroir and elegant winemaking. A big, juicy, and spicy wine that captures the energy of Calatayud's soaring vineyards.
Terra Alta
Smiling faces and stunning landscapes at Cellers Unió vineyards in Terra Alta.
White and red Garnacha with a Catalan flair is the hallmark of Terra Alta. Established as a DO in 1984, Terra Alta is "where Garnacha reigns in red and white." Recognized for their crisp and mineral-rich white wines since the 19th century, red Garnacha wines from this mountainous region in the province of Tarragona elegantly express intense red fruit flavors with a streak of minerality. Cellers Unió credits the local winds “cerç” and “garbí” for refreshing the grapes in the region's hot summers and preventing illnesses.
Fresh and frisky with crisp minerality and a touch of cream, Unió Corporació
Alimentaria Clos Dalian Garnacha Blanca 2016 ($9.99) captures the Terra Alta style.
Somontano
A fairy tale view of the vineyards at Secastilla in Somontano.
A magical and beautiful region in the northeast of Spain, Somontano is a powerhouse for quality winemaking. South of the Pyrenees in Huesca/Aragon, on the natural border with France, the dry climate, cold winters, hot summers, and diversity of soil types make Somontano an ideal location for the cultivation of many grape varieties. Somontano is celebrated for its prowess in producing everything from Gewurztraminer to Merlot but the region also boasts some of Spain's finest Garnacha.
Viñas del Vero is one of Somontano's most esteemed wineries and their astoundingly vibrant and balanced Secastilla Garnacha 2012 was honored as the Best Red Wine in Spain at the International Wine Challenge. (2010 vintage currently available in the US for $29.99.)
As a child, Viñas del Vero winemaker José Ferrer grew up visiting the vineyards of Secastilla with his father and now he is one of Spain's most celebrated winemakers. Extremely talented and endearingly humble, José's wines display grace, passion, and emotion.
Viñas del Vero also produces a superb white Garnacha, La Miranda de Secastilla Blanco 2015 ($16).
Roussillon: In France, Garnacha is Grenache
Quiet a view from Domaine La Tour Vieille in Collioure, a picturesque town in French Catalonia on the Mediterranean coast, just north of the Spanish border.
Cross the border and Garnache becomes Grenache. To experience Grenache-centric wines with a bit of ooh la la, we traveled to France's sunniest region; Roussillon. Shaped like an amphitheater and nestled in the South of France between Spain, the Mediterranean Sea, the Pyrenees & the Corbières Mountains, Roussillon is known for its diversity of wines & terroirs. Roussillon's various micro-climates beautifully showcase how Grenache is an excellent vessel for expressing the nuances of terroir. The region of France most committed to organic viticulture and biodynamic practices, Roussillon excels in presenting Grenache in all its splendor.
Wine aging in glass demi-johns at Mas Amiel in Roussillon
Roussillon is France's largest producer of Vins Doux Naturels (Sweet Fortified Wines) that are PDO Certified (Protected Designation of Origen). One of the traditional methods of producing these unique wines is to accelerate their aging by placing the wine outside in glass demi-johns, rarely for more than a year, before they are taken inside to continue aging in casks, barrels, or tanks. Mas Amiel, an impressive estate with 200 years of history, has an impressive portfolio of fortified oxidized wines.
90% Black Grenache, Mas Amiel '69 AOP Maury was aged for one year outside in glass demi-johns and another 38 years in oak casks. The grapes were harvested manually and de-stemmed. Extra alcohol was added, in a process known as mutage, directly onto the fruit and steeped for 30 days to extract the rich aromas and polyphenols from the grapes. An aromatic and voluptuous sweet wine that beautifully balances fruit, alcohol and sugar and shows the aging power of these wines. (The 1985 vintage is available in the US for about $85).
Mas Amiel winemaker Nicolas Raffy with a bottle of their 2009 Vintage Charles Dupuy AOP Maury. 100% Grenache from vines dating back to 1914, this stunning and complex wine is named after the gentleman who acquired the estate in 1907.
Domaine La Tour Vieille produces the Grenache based fortified dessert wine Banyuls. This Reserva Banyuls ($30) starts its journey in glass jars (demi-johns) that are aged for one year outdoors and then blended together into one tank. The final blend for each Reserva bottling includes this tank and wine with various other vintages from barrels and foudre (large wooden vats).
Emmanuel Cazes, great-grandson of the winery's founder, joined the family business in 1997 and was an important part of Domaine Cazes' conversion to biodynamic and organic winemaking.
Of course, Roussillon offers much more than sweet wines and their dry Grenache wines are exceptional and Cazes is the perfect place to begin your tasting journey. Founded in 1895, Cazes is located between the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean, in the heart of Roussillon in Rivesaltes. In 2005, Cazes became a certified organic and biodynamic estate.
A blend of white and grey Grenache, Les Clos de Paulilles Blanc 2016 is graceful and refreshing with a sturdy mineral streak.
Domaine Cazes Ego 2014 is a classic blend of Grenache, Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre. Ripe and rich with hints of Mediterranean herbs and plush tannins.
During dinner in Perpignan, winemaker Jean-Roger Calvet of Domaine Thunevin-Calvet shared a bottle of his Maury 2014, a Vins Doux Naturels made from 100% Grenache Noir. In 2001, Jean-Roger had a fortuitous meeting with Jean-Luc Thunevin of Château Valandraud in St Emilion. Their first vintage was vinified in a garage, today they have 60 hectares and none of their vines are treated with pesticides or fertilizers.
Domaine Thunevin-Calvet Cuvée Les Trois Marie 2011 is an elegant and sexy 100% Grenache Noir wine.
"Winemakers around the world can do nothing without great tasting grapes, and great grapes need fantastic terroir. After seeing some of the world’s best, we realised that our own land, The Roussillon, had the potential to be considered among the finest terroirs of the world." - Jean-Marc Lafage
It isn't an exaggeration to call Jean-Marc and Eliane Lafage the winemaking power couple of Roussillon. These partners in wine, love, and life have traveled the world together making wine and realized their native land, Roussillon, had some of the best terroir and grapes in the world. Lafage's large portfolio of wines is a living encyclopedia of the region's viticulture. White, sparkling, red, dry, sweet; Lafage makes them all. Their land is an extended part of their family and they treat it with respect and invest a great deal of time in knowing the unique personality traits and microclimates of each plot. Their white wine Centenaire ($11) blends Grenache Blanc & Gris with Roussanne from 97 year old vines. Centenaire is an impressive balance of floral, mineral, and maritime flavors. Their Maury 2013 is a powerful and rich sweet wine with exemplary balance.
Proving that Spain and France are indeed bound by Garnacha/Grenache, Jean-Marc partners with Bodegas San Alejandro in Calatayud on their Evodia Garnacha ($11)!
Oh, the sacrifices I make for wine. The rain was so very good for the Garnacha grapes in Secastilla but not so great for my hair!
Wine is history, art, love, life. It provides sustenance for the body and soul. As I traveled through Spain and France on the Garnacha/Grenache trail, I was reminded of wine's ineffable power to create an instant kinship and connection between people. A bond is often created when you share a bottle of wine with someone. Some connections end when the bottle is emptied and others last a lifetime. In a world where so much conflict is caused by our fear of each other's differences, wine reminds us of our shared humanity and inspires us to focus on joy and beauty. We need more of that in the world. Of course, Garnacha/Grenache isn't the only wine that captures this feeling, but perhaps in its versatility and strength, there is something endearingly human about this grape.
