In a world where few places live up to the hype, Provence elegantly exceeds it. From the breathtaking natural beauty of lavender fields in the Luberon to the glitzy yacht culture of St. Tropez, there really isn't one Provence. A captivating tapestry of diverse landscapes, moods, and people; wine is the perfect vehicle for discovering Provence's many charms.
image courtesy of Wines of Provence
It would not be exaggerating to deem Provence the rosé capital of the world. It is the only region to dedicate 90% of their wine production to rosé. The United States is second only to France in consumption of rosé and 46% of Provençal rosé wines, an astounding 57.5 million bottles, were exported to the USA last year. The allure of Provence's pale pink wines fueled a global rosé sensation. Not just for summer, the desire to drink rosé all day has crescendoed to rosé all year for wine lovers. The runaway success of rosé from Provence has inspired many winemakers around the globe to emulate the region's pale pink style of wine. Others may succeed in crafting rosé wines but only Provence can lay claim to being the true originators of the rosé lifestyle.
The pale pink wines of Provence are the best known but at the Rosé Research Center we explored the six main shades of Provençal rosé.
A recent visit to Provence as a guest of Wines of Provence was a refreshing deep dive into the region's wine culture. While a fresh and flirty style of rosé put wines from Provence on the map, wines from the region are actually produced in a myriad of styles, including aged rose that spends time in oak and sparkling. And yes, Provence also produces red & white wines. We tend to think of Provence as a monolith but the region actually has three wine appellations that produce very distinctive styles of wine: Côtes de Provence, Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence, and Coteaux Varois en Provence.
Visiting every winery in Provence would be an enjoyable feat of endurance but nearly impossible for most of us. But La Maison des Vins Côtes de Provence makes it easy to taste wines from almost every winery in the region. The boutique features 800 Provençal wines and they host informative tastings and workshops. During my visit, sommelier David Hospital mapped out the Côtes de Provence winemaking region. I always say that wine makes geography much more interesting!
Côtes de Provence is the largest and most famous of Provence's wine appellations and produces more than 70% of the AOC's wines. Rosé accounts for 90% of Côtes de Provence wines. Spanning more than 20,000 hectares, the terroir of Côtes de Provence is so diverse that it is further divided into 4 terroir designations: Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire, Côtes de Provence Fréjus, Côtes de Provence La Londe, and Côtes de Provence Pierrefeu. Don't get overwhelmed by the names, just remember that these designations indicate that the wines have a certain typicity because of shared terroir and climate.
Ooh la la, Saint-Tropez. I discovered that you don't need a yacht to feel like a high roller in this glitzy fishing village. The affordable ferry ride is pretty fantastic.
I love rosé year-round but there's no denying that the wine has a special allure in the warmer months. As rosé season kicks into high gear and a delightful cloud of pink descends upon us, it is important to remember the people behind the wine. Rosé may seem easy breezy but it takes skill and dedication to make quality rosé. As I look back on my trip, the only thing more captivating than the beauty of Provence's landscapes and mouthwatering food & wine, were the people that I met. Generous with their time and wine, it became clear to me people in Provence have mastered the art of living well.
Magali Combard is cool, there's no doubt about it. After visiting her family's Domaine Figuière winery, I'm convinced that Magali's charisma and can-do attitude energize the vineyards and everyone she encounters. No stranger to taking on a new challenge, in 2004 Magali left her life in Paris to join the family winery in Provence as the sales and marketing manager. During our tasting, every few minutes Magali would pop up from the table to bring another wine for us to try. Each beautifully crafted wine told the story of the Combard family's commitment to each other and to making wines that authentically express their land.
image courtesy of Domaine Figuiére
Located between Toulon and Saint-Tropez, Figuière is just one kilometer from the sea and they describe their estate as "a paradise where the land meets the sea." Although it is located in one of the sunniest places in France, Magali credits the sea breezes for regulating the heat so that their grapes are balanced and healthy. The soil is another important factor and the terroir of Figuière is mostly schist rock that imbues the wines with a tangible minerality. And even before most people were thinking about organic wine, Figuiére has grown their grapes organically since 1979. Their 210 acre vineyard is home to Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Vermentino (aka Rolle) and other varieties typical of Provence.
Figuière has an impressive and diverse portfolio that includes rosé, white, red, and sparkling. One of the standouts is Magali Signature Rosé ($25.99), a supple, vibrant, and full-bodied blend of Cabernet, Syrah, Cinsault, and Grenache. Magali said her namesake wine is Figuière's top-selling wine in the USA.
Jean-François Ott, Co-Director of Domaines Ott, at their Clos Mireille estate.
Founded in 1912 by Marcel Ott, Domaines Ott is one of Provence's most iconic wineries. Their wines have had a presence abroad for decades and Ott began shipping rosé to our shores in 1938! Hmmm, perhaps Ott should be credited for quietly starting the rosé revolution?
Vintage Domaines Ott bottles
Today, cousins Jean-François Ott and Christian Ott carry on this family legacy as co-directors of their three estates. During my visit, I had the chance to tour Ott's stunning seaside estate, Clos Mireille, with Jean-François. The Mediterranean breezes and soils composed of schist and clay add impressive character to the grapes grown on their 124 acres of vineyards. Jean-François said that he wants the wines to "preserve the flavor of the terroir and the taste of the grape". They do.
The Ott portfolio eloquently expresses the range of rosé from Provence. To get started, I recomend their Domaines Ott Clos Mireille Côtes de Provence Rosé ($52). A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and Rolle; it beautifully captures the Mediterranean soul of the estate. The price may seem hefty for a rosé but Clos Mireille shows that rosé can rise to level of fine wine and merits a price that reflects the quality of the winemaking.
Domaine Saint Andrieu winemaker Grégory Guibergia. We didn't speak the same language but still shared plenty of laughs while sipping his superb wines.
Should you ever hear that I've run off to Provence and care to come looking for me, Domaine Saint Andrieu is one of the places you should check. Located at the base of Bessillon Mountain, to reach Domaine Saint Andrieu you drive through the picturesque organic town of Correns and ascend up, up, up a rustic road. You may be greeted by some adorable goats as you climb and once you reach the top, paradise awaits -- the château of your dreams and wonderful wine.
Domaine Saint Andrieu produces red, white, and rosé wines from traditional Provençal varieties. Their superb Saint Andrieu Côtes de Provence Rosé ($20) is a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah. Fresh and full-bodied, it is a perfect match for the vibrant flavors of the season. These wines are meant for sharing with friends over a beautiful meal.
My time at Domaine Saint Andrieu reminded me of the power of good wine and food to bring people together. Sitting in the sultry Provençal sun and lunching on a simple but lovingly prepared meal, I was thousands of miles from Manhattan but I felt at home.
Throughout the spring and summer, I'll be sharing more information about the rosé, red, and white wines of Provence and the charming people that I met along the way. Cheers!
