image courtesy of Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance
I was determined to write my wine story about Paso Robles without mentioning their famous neighbor to the north, Napa Valley. As you can see, I failed in the first sentence. When talking about California wines, it's almost impossible, and perhaps unforgivable, not to recognize Napa's contributions to elevating the quality and reputation of American wines around the world. The story of modern-day California winemaking may indeed start with Napa, but Paso Robles is not only adding some exciting new chapters, it stands on its own as a world-class wine region.
The positive buzz from wine writers and sommeliers started as a whisper but it has grown into a joyful noise and I've noticed more wines from Paso Robles on restaurant lists and in shops. Where there's wine buzz, I happily follow, so I recently accepted a generous invitation from the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance to explore the region, meet winemakers, and taste plenty of fascinating wines.
Meet Clarabelle The Wine Cow, the grape loving mascot of the Paso Robles Inn.
Paso Robles has plenty of small town charm. Downtown, you'll find spacious and well-appointed accommodations at the Paso Robles Inn, quaint shops, and fantastic restaurants; it is a great home base for venturing out to the nearby rural areas where the vineyards are located. Non-drivers like myself have several options for transportation, including The Wine Line -- a well-managed and friendly hop-on, hop-off van fleet that services the wineries.
Jason Westfall, the friendly and efficient owner of The Wine Line.
There's a bit of a Wild West attitude to Paso Robles, the winemakers that I met didn't seem encumbered to do things a certain way or follow convention. If anything, being unconventional is the norm in Paso Robles. Break the rules but make good wine seems to be the unofficial mantra of the region. The experimental nature of the winemakers combined with Paso Robles's ideal grape growing conditions, lead to some pretty exciting wines.
Located along California's breathtaking Central Coast, Paso Robles is equidistant from Los Angeles and San Francisco. The region is actually divided into 11unique AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) that recognize the diversity of terroir, soil, and micro-climates. Paso Robles benefits from a long growing season of warm days and cool evenings that are perfect for growing ripe, beautifully balanced, and expressive grapes. And so many grapes! Yes, you'll find Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Zinfandel in Paso Robles but the abundance of different wine grapes that thrive in the area is astounding -- more than 40,000 acres planted with 40 different varieties. Syrah, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Grenache, Pinot Noir, and more all have a presence in Paso Robles. I was impressed at how beautifully these international grapes express themselves in Paso Robles.
Steve Gleason, founder of Four Lanterns Winery. Long before they opened their winery in 2014, Steve and his wife Jackie were long time visitors to Paso Robles and fans of the wines. Located on the west side of Paso Robles in the Willow Creek AVA, Four Lanterns specializes in Rhône and Bordeaux varietal wines.
But no matter how great the grapes are, wine doesn't make itself. And more often than not, great winemaking is a group effort. Yes, a winemaker will have a vision but it takes the support of others to bring that dream to fruition. Camaraderie and community are words that I heard consistently when speaking with Paso Robles winemakers. Steve Gleason, founder of Four Lanterns winery, said, "It is a great community to be a winemaker in. Everyone is very willing to help and is very open. The better Paso does, the better we all do."
Home to more than 200 wineries, it was impossible to visit each winery in Paso Robles during my visit. But I did get a great feel for the region and there really is a Paso Robles wine for every palate and budget. Here are a few suggested wines to look for in your hometown. All of the places listed welcome visitors. If you're looking for an easygoing, unpretentious, and high quality wine adventure, Paso Robles is the place for you.
Four Lanterns Lamplight Viognier 2016 ($29) has crisp minerality and juicy stone fruit flavors. A great example of how international grapes can thrive in Paso Robles.
Once home to a working horse ranch, Rava Wines is a 505 acre boutique vineyard in the heart of Paso Robles. Rava specializes in the production of traditional method sparkling wines. Their sparkling Grüner Veltliner 2016 ($32) is an elegant example of the innovative essence of Paso Robles. Indigenous to Austria, Grüner Veltliner is a vibrant and zippy grape. Rava's sparkling interpretation is crisp and delicate with beautiful flavors of green apple and pear. And if you're looking for a beautiful place to host a wedding or other special event, consider Rava's gorgeous grounds, event spaces, and guest house.
Thacher Blanc de Blanc Sparkling Wine 2013 ($60) was an incredibly delicious surprise. 100% Viognier, produced in the traditional champagne method, it epitomizes creative and precise winemaking. 9 months on the lees and 36 months en tirage, it is complex yet fresh and flirty with vibrant citrus and stone fruit flavors with a touch of brioche.
Winemaker Sherman Thacher had a previous career as an award-winning brewmaster. In 2006 he and his wife Michelle moved to Paso Robles and opened their winery and tasting room in 2008.
Terry and Jennifer Hoage, winemakers & owners of TH Estate Wines.
From the gridiron to the vineyard! In 2002, former professional football player Terry Hoage and his wife Jennifer embarked on their Paso Robles winemaking adventure by purchasing a 26-acre vineyard on the west side of Paso Robles in the Willow Creek District. Jennifer describes their devotion to winemaking as a true labor of love. They built the winery from the ground up, their first plantings were Syrah, and in the early days they actually stomped grapes with their feet. The feet stomping may be a thing of the past but from the vineyard to the cellar and tasting room, the Hoages are still very hands on. They produce primarily Rhône style wines on their sustainably farmed estate. In addition to Syrah, they grow and produce wines with Grenache, Mourvèdre, Grenache Blanc, Picpoul Blanc, and Roussanne.
The Reserve Tasting Flight, a seated tasting in their private tasing room, is a great introduction to the TH Estate Wines style. The 2015 Three-Four Syrah ($88) was a stand-out. A block-designate wine from a specific vineyard, the name was inspired by the spacing of the vines and Terry's jersey throughout most of his professional football career. A rich and zesty Syrah but not too peppery, this superb wine has tight tannins and beautiful dark berry flavors.
The word iconic is grossly overused but the Hearst name is one of the few that lives up to the hype. Titans of industry, the Hearst family empire is well-known for their vast holdings in mining and media, but I had no idea that a member of the family was involved in the wine business. Not far from the famous Hearst Castle in San Simeon, the Hearst Ranch Winery project is a collaboration between Steve Hearst and Jim Saunders.
Hearst Ranch Winery vintner/owner Jim Saunders and winemaker Soren Christensen.
I'll confess that I approached the Hearst wines with a bit of skepticism and wondered if the wines were just a marketing opportunity. I'm happy to report that I was wrong and these wines live up to the winery's motto "a legacy of quality." Their portfolio is quite extensive but to get started I recommend their superb 2016 Three Sisters Cuvée ($24). A rich and balanced blend of Syrah, Grenache, Petite Syrah, and Mourvèdre; this luscious red is juicy with a kiss of spice.
If you're traveling to Paso Robles with a group of friends, Opolo rolls out the red carpet at their stunning property. The vibe is relaxed and festive but from the food to the service, every detail is meticulously executed.
With some expert coaching and encouragement, I sabered my first bottle of bubbly at Opolo. Don't try this at home!
The Opolo portfolio includes creative and elegant wines like this charming 2016 Montagna Mare ($28). An unexpected blend of Barbera and Sangiovese, I was astounded at how well these Italian grapes adapt to the Paso Robles terroir. Silky and rich, this is a beautifully balanced wine that puts a Paso Robles twist on these old country grapes.
With world class wines, down-to-earth winemakers, great food, and beautiful scenery; Paso Robles is a winning wine getaway. No attitude, no snobbery; just a community of people working together to make the very best wine in their unique Paso Robles way. And no matter where you are, you can take your palate on a Paso Robles adventure. Give Paso Robles wines a swirl, you won't be disappointed.
