Wine With Wanda

Ciao, Gattinara!: There's Something Special About Travaglini

Cinzia Travaglini and her daughter Alessia Collauto Travaglini represent the 4th and 5th generations of their family's prestigious winery in the Gattinara region of Piemonte. 

Don’t let Gattinara’s tiny size fool you; its 100 hectares produce some of Italy’s most intriguing wines. And no serious conversation or tasting of Gattinara is complete without Travaglini. Not only does the Travaglini family’s 59 hectares represent more than half of Gattinara’s total size, their pioneering winemaking techniques, such as experimenting with barrique, are credited with elevating the quality and reputation of Gattinara.

Located in the northwest of Italy in Piemonte, Gattinara once spanned almost 600 acres and is actually an older winemaking region than Barolo. But phylloxera and a devasting hail storm destroyed the region and by 1905 winemaking had been abandoned. The Travaglini family has owned land in Gattinara since the beginning of the 19^th century and made small amounts of wine for local consumption but it wasn’t until 1958 that Travaglini Estate Winery was officially created.

image courtesy of Travaglini

I was recently invited to a tasting of Travaglini Gattinara with the dynamic mother and daughter team of Cinzia Travaglini and Alessia Collauto Travaglini. Their passion and poise were inspiring. I left the tasting with the feeling that the Travaglini family doesn’t just make wine, they ARE wine. Wine unites them as a family, it is their legacy and their future.  

Like Barolo, Gattinara DOCG wines are produced from 100% Nebbiolo. Travaglini’s wines have a finesse and freshness that can be attributed to the cooling winds of the nearby Alps. Of course, masterful winemaking is required to ensure that the natural beauty of these Nebbiolo grapes is not destroyed by over-manipulation. Gattinara’s judicious use of oak enhances and frames the flavors of Nebbiolo without dominating it. “Produce quality, maintain quality” is the Travaglini philosophy, said Cinzia. Cinzia’s husband, Massimo Collauto, assumed the role of chief winemaker from his father-in-law and mentor Giancarlo Travaglini and carries on this tradition. 


Another thing that you’ll notice about Travaglini is the distinctive shape of their bottle. Designed by Giancarlo Travaglini in 1958, the design cleverly catches sediment during pouring, eliminating the need for decanting. The dark color prevents light from passing through and negatively impacting the quality of the wine. Travagalini’s wines are made to age and the bottle design nurtures that process. 

Nebbiolo Coste Della Sesia DOC 2017 ($20.99), Travaglini’s entry level wine, is a fresh and fruit-forward introduction to their style. Aged in stainless steel (4 months) and Slavonian oak casks (10 months), it is crisp and easy to drink with crunchy red fruit flavors and a kiss of spice & herbs. A lighter-bodied red, you can even serve this slightly chilled.



Gattinara DOCG 2015 ($32.99)
Nebbiolo is often described as tasting of tar and roses and this wine elegantly expresses the grape’s grit and grace. Aged for 3 years in Slavonian oak casks, this full-bodied wine has a sinewy muscularity that keeps its red fruit and herbal flavors buoyant and not clunky.



Gattinara Tre Vigne DOCG 2013 ($49.99) is a blend of three single vineyard sites. The combination of Nebbiolo grapes from these unique sites creates a harmonious wine that is full and juicy with flavors of cherry, rose water, truffle, and black pepper. Aged for 4 years in Slavonian oak casks.

Gattinara Riserva DOCG 2013 ($59.99) is produced from Nebbiolo grapes from the best parcels in Travaglini’s oldest vineyards (35-60 years old). Aged for 3 years in Slavonian oak casks, its red fruit flavors are accented by hints of clove and bitter chocolate. 

Il Sogno 2014 ($127.99), which translates to “The Dream”, was inspired in name and style by Cinzia’s father, Giancarlo. A fan of Sforzato wines from Valtellina that are crafted from dried Nebbiolo grapes, Giancarlo imagined creating a similar wine in Gattinara. For Il Sogno, hand-harvested Nebbiolo grapes were air-dried for 100 days to intensify their flavors and sugars. The grapes were fermented once 50% of their water content evaporated. Aged for 40 months in Slavonian oak casks, it is rich, luscious, and sweet but good acidity and pops of spice save it from being cloying. A really beautiful vino! 


image courtesy of Travaglini

If you’re planning a trip to Piemonte, Travaglini welcomes visitors. Reservations required. 

Back to the Beginning: A Heartwarming Wine Reunion with Marchesi di Barolo

 

Such a joy to catch up with Anna Abbona of the iconic Marchesi di Barolo winery. 

In the early days of my wine writing journey I was invited to an intimate tasting in Manhattan featuring the wines of Marchesi di Barolo. Back in 2012, I had never visited Italy, probably couldn't find Piedmont on a map, and had no idea that Nebbiolo was the grape used to make Barolo. Taking my seat at the table, I wondered how I ended up with a Master of Wine to my right and a major wine critic across from me. Humbled and exhilarated, I soaked up every bit of knowledge as the experts discussed the nuances of the exquisite decades-old wines in our glasses. But my strongest memory that day is of the Abbona family, the owners, producers, and ambassadors of Marchesi di Barolo: Anna the elegant matriarch, Ernesto the stoic patriarch and fifth-generation winemaker, Valentina the charismatic eldest child who translated for her father, and Davide the shy but sweet youngest member of the famiglia Abbona. 

Meet the Abbona family! Ernesto, Valentina, Davide, and Anna. 
image courtesy of Marchesi di Barolo 

So much has changed in my life since that day seven years ago. I've learned more about wine, been to Italy more than a dozen times, and know many wonderful winemakers. But I've never forgotten that tasting with the Abbona family. The beauty of their wines and closeness as a family left a big impression on me. But I also remember that every member of the Abbona family treated me with warmth and respect. They made me feel just as important as the big shots in the room. 

So when I received an invitation a few months ago to meet with Anna Abbona while she was in NYC, my heart skipped a beat. Too many years had passed since our last meeting and I could not wait to taste Marchesi di Barolo with Anna by my side. Greeting each other with big hugs, it felt like no time had passed at all. But some things had certainly changed. Her daughter Valentina is now known globally as a passionate ambassador of her family's wines and Davide's teen years and shyness are behind him and he is also an integral and visible part of the family business. Anna told me that she's so happy that her children genuinely love the business and that she doesn't take it for granted. 

And the Marchesi di Barolo wines were as wonderful as I remember. Anna said, "Every wine is different. You can recognize our style but each wine has its own personality." But Anna also acknowledges that as "the winery where Barolo was born, we have to maintain tradition."

100% Cortese, crisp and refreshing Marchesi di Barolo Gavi di Gavi DOCG 2017 ($20) is a great match with the mood and meals of summer. Full and vibrant citrus flavors with touches of chamomile, almond, and salinity. 

Austere but elegant, Marchesi di Barolo Tradizione Barolo DOCG 2014 ($58) is a fine example of a traditional Barolo and the house style. Earthy and nuanced flavors of tart cherry, truffles, and tea leaves. 

Full and round, Marchesi di Barolo "Ruvei" Barbera d'Alba DOC 2016 ($21) gets added complexity from a dash of Nebbiolo (15%). Robust cherry and red-fruit flavors with hints of herbs and white pepper. 


 100% Barbera, Marchesi di Barolo "Peiragal" Barbera d'Alba DOC 2014 ($32) is a charming and fruit-forward vino. Soft and juicy with great acidity with some tantalizing toasty notes. Elegant and easygoing.

Anna proudly cradles a bottle of Marchesi di Barolo "Sarmassa" Barolo DOCG 2013 ($119). A stunning single-vineyard Barolo, Sarmassa transmits the story of terroir and impeccable winemaking. A powerful and complex wine with precise structure, Sarmassa has the capacity to age at least 25-30 years. 

It was such a joy to reconnect with Anna and to learn more of the Abbona family's story through her words and their wines. Now that I can find Piedmont on the map, I hope to visit the Marchesi di Barolo estate on a future trip to Italy. Are you headed to Piemonte? Make your reservation for a wine tasting or dinner at Marchesi di Barolo. And no passport is needed to take your palate on a journey with their expressive and elegant wines. 

Sips That Soar: The Sky's the Limit with Martini & Rossi Riserva Speciale Vermouth & Bitter Liqueur

Martini & Rossi dynamic duo Giuseppe “Beppe” Musso (Master Blender) and Ivano Tonutti (Master Herbalist). 

How fitting that my tasting appointment with the Martini & Rossi dynamic duo of Beppe Musso (Master Blender) and Ivano Tonutti (Master Herbalist) happened at The Aviary NYC, a veritable cocktail nirvana perched 35 floors above the hustle and bustle of Manhattan. These two charming gentleman showed me that there are truly no limits to the delicious drinks that can be created with Martini & Rossi Riserva Speciale Vermouth and Bitter Liqueur.

Martini & Rossi vermouth and bitter liqueur are the important foundation to many a stylish cocktail. However, we tend to overlook that even by themselves these bar essentials represent masterful blending that melds artistry and scientific precision. Many people mistakenly believe that vermouth is a spirit but it is actually wine that has been fortified with aromatic botanicals. Beppe Musso, master blender, has been making wine for almost three decades and said, "Wine is the base of our product." Ivano added, "Vermouth is wine and more. Wine is the skeleton. Botanicals add structure." In his role as master herbalist, Ivano who trained as a pharmacist, sources the finest botanicals and herbs available locally and around the globe. Consistency is key but these are "living formulas, not just recipes," said Beppe.

 
One of the most widely recognized brands in the world; Martini & Rossi has been producing vermouth at their historic headquarters in Piemonte, in northern Italy since 1863. That was also the year they introduced their classic Martini & Rossi Rosso Vermouth, an iconic product whose original blend remains unchanged. According to Beppe and Ivano, around the world 4 million drinks a day are served that include a Martini & Rossi brand! Tradition matters at Martini & Rossi but that commitment doesn't stifle their creativity. This respectful approach to innovation is beautifully displayed in their Riserva Speciale Rubino & Ambrato Vermouth and Bitter Liqueur 1872.



Elegant Nebbiolo is Piemonte's most famous red wine grape and provides an impressive foundation for Martini & Rossi Riserva Speciale Rubino Vermouth di Torino ($25). Juicy, spicy, and luscious with warm spice flavors, Rubino adds depth and energy to a cocktail. I quite enjoy Rubino by itself as an after-dinner digestif, especially on a chilly winter night. Of course, the exact blend of herbs and botanicals is secret but I did hear that red sandalwood and artemisias (herbaceous plants and shrubs) contribute to its charms. 


The natural sweetness of Piemonte's famous Moscato d'Asti show its edgier side in Martini & Rossi Riserva Speciale Ambrato Vermouth di Torino ($25). The addition of botanicals like Roman chamomile to the Moscato d'Asti creates a beguiling bitter-sweet drink that balances lovely honey and floral flavors with tinges of exotic spices.

image by Daniel Krieger
As the name implies, Martini & Rossi Riserva Speciale Bitter Liqueur 1872 ($27) is not wine based but has a foundation of pure neutral alcohol. Infused with aromatic herbs and bitter woods, it adds finesse and texture to classic cocktails like the Negroni.


In the Rocks Negroni, prepared with Riserva Speciale Rubino Vermouth and Riserva Speciale Bitter Liqueur, is available at The Aviary NYC. 
image by Daniel Krieger

The Martini & Rossi website has recipes for creative cocktails using the Riserva Speciale vermouths and bitter liqueur. Of course, Martini & Rossi products are staples of bars around the globe but if you're visiting NYC, head up to The Aviary at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel for an elevated drink like the In the Rocks Negroni. Or you can mix it up at home using the recipe below! Pleasing to the palate and the eye, In the Rocks Negroni is a festive drink for the holiday season that is certain to delight your guests. Like Beppe and Ivano said, "Martini & Rossi is a lifestyle. Happiness is in the DNA of the brand!"

In the Rocks Negroni

1 oz Martini & Rossi Riserva Speciale Rubino Vermouth

3/4 oz Martini & Rossi Riserva Speciale Bitter Liqueur

3/4 oz Bombay Sapphire Gin

3 dashes of Orange Bitters

Served in ice sphere that is broken upon serving

Nebbiolo Unplugged: The Rebellious & Intriguing Wines of Cascina Ebreo

"Nature is a temple but it lives by contrasts. You must respect, observe, understand, study it. But you have to fight to get something out of it. Nature is a dialectical discourse." - Pete Weimer. 

When you close your eyes and imagine a winemaker from Piedmont, you'd be forgiven for not immediately picturing Peter Weimer. Affectionately known as Pete, this former software executive with German roots gave up corporate life in Switzerland and purchased Cascina Ebreo in 1991 with Romy Gygax, his partner in wine and life. Pete may not have had formal training as a winemaker but he is a certified wine geek - he started collecting wine when he was 16 years old and devoured wine books the way other children read comics. Not deterred by neglected vineyards that needed replanting and cellars that needed building, Pete and Romy fully embraced their new life in Italy and in 1996 Cascina Ebreo bottled their first wines. Today, Cascina Ebreo is available at acclaimed restaurants and fine wine shops. 

I recently had the pleasure of sharing some Cascina Ebreo wines with Pete while he was visiting New York City and I was immediately drawn to his unfiltered and down-to-earth manner. Another example of the winemaker's personality mirroring his creations, Cascina Ebreo wines are not filtered, only use natural yeasts, minimal sulfites, and organic fertilizers in the vineyard. But don't dare call Pete a natural winemaker, he prefers the term "unplugged wine" because he feels that there are no rules at all in natural wine and he finds that problematic. 

You can't have a discussion about wines from Piedmont and not talk about Barolo. Made from 100% Nebbiolo, Barolo is known as "The King of Wines" and boasts DOCG status, Italy's highest level of classification for wine. Cascina Ebreo's Torbido! is a 100%  Nebbiolo wine but this high-end vino is not classified as a DOCG, not for lack of quality but because Pete produces the wine in his own rebellious way instead of adhering to the official rules. Only produced in extraordinary years, Torbido! is a complex and expressive wine produced from late harvested grapes and aged for thirty months in Austrian oak barrels. Rich but not aggressive, Torbibo! boasts well integrated tannins, impressive structure, and vibrant energy. You'll have to wait about a year try Torbido! in the US. Of course, you can book a flight to Italy - that's always a good idea! 

Until Torbido! arrives, give Cascina Ebreo Rosso ($29) a swirl. A blend of the classic Piemontese grapes Dolcetto, Barbera, and Nebbiolo, it is a fresh and fruit-forward red wine with enough structure to age but perfectly pleasant to sip while it is young. Cascina Ebreo also produces a richly textured and evocative Sauvignon Blanc, Sinché ($42), crafted from Loire Valley and Friuli clones. Made with passion and creativity, the wines of Cascina Ebreo are a very special and unique expression of Piedmont. 

 

 

Authentic Icon: Winemaker Michele Chiarlo Celebrates His 60th Piedmont Harvest

  Michele and Stefano Chiarlo

In a world that seems to increasingly regard superficiality as a virtue, it is refreshing to attend a celebration of genuine talent and impressive longevity. The words icon and legend are often tossed around too casually but they authentically apply to winemaker Michele Chiarlo. His namesake winery in Piedmont, in the north of Italy, is world-renowned for its elegant and exceptional wines. Mr. Chiarlo was recently in New York City to celebrate a tremendous milestone -  his 60th harvest and the 40th anniversary of the partnership with his importer in the United States, Kobrand.


If you meet someone that has a bottle of Michele Chiarlo's 1978 Granduca Barolo in their cellar, be nice and hope they share. This exquisite wine shows the impressive aging power of Barolo. 

With his winemaker son Stefano by his side, Mr. Chiarlo shared stories of his early visits to the United States, decades ago, when most Americans had no idea of what Barolo was. My how times have changed, in no small part as a direct result of Mr. Chiarlo's talent and Kobrand's commitment to making Barolo available to American consumers. Today Barolo, the king of wines and the wine of kings, is among the most coveted by wine lovers. Although rooted in tradition and specialists in the 4 grapes that are the most important Piedmont varietals (Nebbiolo, Barbera, Cortese, and Moscato), it was Chiarlo's embrace of innovation that set him apart from the rest and helped to secure Piedmont's status as one of the world's greatest wine regions. Chiarlo expertly improved winemaking technique while retaining his commitment "to respect the character of the wine."


A view of the Michele Chiarlo vineyards

"Piemonte is a special region with a special terroir," said Mr. Chiarlo of the mountainous region where the family owns 148 hectares of estate vineyards, including the renowned vineyards of La Court, Cerequio, and Cannubi. If you're ready to explore the wines of Piemonte, Michele Chiarlo is a very fine way to begin your tasting journey. Beautifully crafted yet not overly manipulated, Michele Chiarlo's wines have a sense of place and express his 60 years of commitment to bottling the very best that his land offers. I recommend starting with two Michele Chiarlo wines: Cipressi Barbera Nizza DOCG 2015 and Barolo Cerequio DOCG 2013. 


Cipressi Barbera Nizza DOCG 2015 ($27.99)
Cipressi's name and label are inspired by the Cypress trees atop one of the hills on the Chiarlo estate. 100% Barbera, this pretty ruby-red wine has refreshing acidity and low tannins. A sweet sensation on the nose but delightfully dry with fresh red berry flavors and a hint of savory licorice and spice. (Available in the US starting March 2018)


Cerequio Barolo DOCG 2013 ($100.99)
A stellar example of a single-vineyard Barolo, Cerequio's soil composition and mild climate make it one of the most prestigious crus of the Langhe zone. Quite young by Barolo standards, the 2013 already displays great balance between fruit, tannins, and spice. Based on the magical 1997 and 1978 Chiarlo vintages that I tasted, this 2013 has a long and beautiful life ahead. 

Click here to learn more about Michele Chiarlo wines and how to book tours and tastings at their estate in Piedmont. 

 

Flying High in Valtellina: The Wines of Nino Negri

At Nino Negri's sky-high vineyards, the hand harvested grapes are transported to the winery via helicopter.
(image courtesy of Frederick Wildman)

Drinking wine is easy and one of life's greatest pleasures. However, producing wine is often arduous and down-and-dirty work. In the case of Nino Negri, you can also describe winemaking as daredevilish and high-flying - their incredibly steep vineyards in Valtellina soar at elevations of 2,400 to 3,000 feet. Italy's largest terraced area of viticulture, Nino Negri's nearly vertical vineyards rule out the use of any mechanical equipment and once the grapes are harvested by hand, they are transported to the winery by helicopter!

image courtesy of Frederick Wildman

Founded in 1897 and located in the Lombardy region at the base of the pre-Alps on Italy's border with Switzerland, Nino Negri is regarded as the premier winemaking estate in the Valtellina DOCG. Their chief winemaker, Casimiro Maule has been at the estate since 1971 and was recognized in 2007 by Gambero Rosso as "Winemaker of the Year."

Yours truly sharing a glass with winemaker Claudio Alongi.

Lucky for us, we don't have to scale any mountains to enjoy the elegant and expressive wines of Nino Negri and can easily find a bottle at our local fine wine shop or online. The estate specialty is Sfursat (strained or forced); a wine made from Chiavennasca (the local name for Nebbiolo) grapes that have dried for 100 days in the cool, dry, alpine air. Sfursat is described as combining "the opulence of Amarone with the elegant complexity of Barolo." I had the pleasure of joining Claudio Alongi, a member of the Nino Negro winemaking team, for a tasting of their exquisite '5 Stelle' Sfursat di Valtellina DOCG 2011 ($88). Produced only in the best years from the finest selections of Chiavennasca, it is truly an impressive wine. A rich shade of deep garnet, Sfursat is a full-bodied yet austere dry wine with flavors of dark fruit, roasted hazelnuts, fennel, and a hint of clove. It has a vibrant acidity that is characteristic of Nebbiolo and time will soften the noticeable, but not unpleasant tannins. If you really want to splurge, buy one to sip now and another to taste in 10 years! Sfursat is a great match with roasted red meats, game, and mature cheeses.

Less expensive but still incredibly delicious is Nino Negri Quadrio Valtellina Superiore DOCG 2011 ($20). Quadrio is named for the 15th century Castello Quadrio di Chiuro that houses the Nino Negri cellars. Mostly Chiavennasca (90%) with a touch of Merlot (10%), Quadrio is sophisticated but approachable with lively flavors of tart fruit that are softened by the plummy Merlot. Prior to bottling, Quadrio matures for 18 months in large French and Slavonian oak casks that impart the wine with just a touch of toastiness. Quadrio is a lovely introduction to the Nino Negri style.

Visit the Nino Negri website to learn more about their wines. Cheers!

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