Even in Manhattan, where people pretend not to notice anything, with his impressive stature and perfectly tailored suit, Tancredi Biondi-Santi draws attention when he enters the room. Of course, people were also staring because it was only ten in the morning and our breakfast table was covered with bottles of wine! But not just any wine, Brunello di Montalcino. And not just any Brunello di Montalcino, but the legendary wines of Biondi-Santi. It isn't an exaggeration to say that without Tancredi's ancestors, Brunello di Montalcino might not exist.
Clemente Santi is considered the founding father of Brunello di Montalcino and Tancredi proudly represents the seventh generation of this winemaking dynasty. In 1869, Clemente Santi's 1865 vintage was awarded a silver medal by the Agrarian Committee of Montepulciano and marks the first recorded mention of Brunello. This trailblazing vino went on to receive prestigious accolades abroad, including in France. According to the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium, "Brunello di Montalcino traces its roots to the 19th century when local farmers began experimenting with a native grape variety cultivated in the surrounding territory. This grape, known as "Brunello" or “Brunellino”, was identified as a variety of Sangiovese. The delectable wine produced from this fruit can be aged for years, richly enhancing its value." In 1980, Brunello di Montalcino was the first wine to receive the prestigious DOCG (Denomination of Origin Controlled and Guaranteed) designation, which represents the highest level of quality for Italian wines. Montalcino, a tiny hilltop town in the heart of Tuscany, is small but mighty in the world of wine.
Many people might be overwhelmed by such a formidable legacy but Tancredi embraces it with grace and humility. Tancredi travels the globe sharing the beauty of Tenuta Greppo Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino and is an in-demand expert not just on his family's wines but the region. Universally acclaimed as one of Italy's finest wines, Brunello di Montalcino is renowned for its elegance, complexity, and longevity. I was delighted at Tancredi's willingness to share his exceptional wines over a casual meal. These wines are so exquisite nothing can diminish their light, indeed they cast a glow over every meal and moment.
With such a storied history, Biondi-Santi is synonymous with tradition but they aren't afraid of respectful innovation. Clearly winemaking has evolved since the 19th century but Tancredi believes that "Technology should not influence the style of the wine. Technology must respect the style of the wine." With that credo, the Biondi-Santi style remains a true reflection of their terroir and tradition. "We innovate as much as we can but maintain our style," said Tancredi. This devotion to tradition isn't just a manifestation of loyalty to the founders but a wise winemaking decision that presents Brunello di Montalcino in the way it was intended to be -- an authentic expression of the terroir and the Sangiovese Grosso grape. For Biondi-Santi, that Sangiovese Grosso grape is specifically their BBS11 clone (Brunello Biondi Santi 11 Clone) which was officially identified in 1970.
Aged 36 months in Slavonian oak, followed by another year of aging in the bottle, Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino 2012 DOCG ($209) is a young wine by Brunello standards; it has the capacity to age another 70-80 years! Nonetheless, I was impressed at the wine's approachability and harmony at this toddler stage of its development. The tannins are firm but not aggressive and the fruit is intense yet graceful. A subtle touch of spice accentuates the wine's freshness and red fruit flavors. This wine was clearly made with passion and precision.
Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2011 DOCG ($566) is clearly not a casual purchase. But if you want to experience a wine that eloquently expresses the majesty of Brunello di Montalcino, this wine is nearly perfect. I say nearly because while it is stunningly beautiful at this moment, it will reveal its true character over time. It has enough structure to age 70-80 years but displays an appealing vibrancy and nuance that make it an unforgettable wine at this moment. Perhaps Tancredi's father, Jacopo Biondi-Santi says it best, "Set apart by its extreme elegance this bottling gives off a beautiful impression of fruit. The very dry climate has given Brunello Riserva 2011 a rare readiness and drinkability without altering its intensity and longevity potential." Riserva 2011 was aged 36 months in Slavonian oak, followed by 2 years in bottle.
To experience a bit of the Biondi-Santi mystique at a more accessible price point, their Rosso di Montalcino 2015 ($115) is a charmer. Fresher and flirtier but still elegant, it was aged 12 months in Slavonian oak and has the capacity to age 15-20 years.
I recognize that the wines of Biondi-Santi are an investment but if you are ever offered a glass, please say yes and savor every sip. Biondi-Santi's wines are to be treasured not only because of their historical significance but they represent a level of winemaking that is to be admired for its authenticity of expression. And if you want to have the fanciest breakfast ever, take a tip from Tancredi and start your day off in grand fashion with Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino.
Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino for breakfast? Don't mind if I do! It was such an unforgettable treat to taste these very special wines with Tancredi Biondi-Santi.
