Wine With Wanda

From Montalcino to Maremma: A Conversation with Tancredi Biondi Santi

Tancredi Biondi Santi, Castello di Montepó

Any discussion of Italian wine history would be incomplete without acknowledging the contributions of the Biondi Santi family. In the 1800's, Ferruccio Biondi Santi planted the first vineyard in Montalcino with a clone of Sangiovese. That grape was Sangiovese Grosso, the soul of the iconic wine Brunello di Montalcino. Bottles of Brunello bearing the Biondi Santi name have long captivated wine lovers, but the family has spread their wings beyond Montalcino to Maremma and their hilltop winery estate in southern Tuscany, Castello di Montepò. 


Castello di Montepò Sassoalloro 2015 ($35) is fresh and crisp, with bright cherry flavors and juicy acidity. An elegant sip! 

I recently had the pleasure of catching up with Tancredi Biondi Santi on Instagram Live -- we first met in New York in 2018. Tancredi proudly represents the seventh generation of the Biondi Santi winemaking dynasty. During our chat, we sipped Sassoalloro 2015 and discussed how his family's proprietary Sangiovese Grosso clone, known as BBS11, responds to the unique terroir of Castello di Montepò. Scroll down or click here to watch our conversation! 

Maremma Memories: Where the Tuscan Spirit is Wild and the Wines are Magical

Vineyards at Fattoria di Magliano, in the heart of Tuscany's Maremma region. 

Maybe I should have consulted a psychic or given a crystal ball a vigorous shake? I certainly would have benefitted from some forewarning that my October 2019 journey to the Maremma region of Tuscany would be my last trip abroad for the foreseeable future. As the COVID-19 pandemic continues to keep much of the world on lockdown, memories of past journeys are more precious than ever. Who knows when I'll travel overseas again, but I feel fortunate that the wines, landscapes, and people of Maremma are seared in my mind.  

The world's love affair with Tuscany and its wines is well-established, but we often overlook that Tuscany is not a monolith; the region consists of several different winemaking areas. While Chianti and Montalcino may be household names, you're almost guaranteed to get a quizzical look when you mention Maremma, even though its viticultural history goes back to the Etruscans. Known as Tuscany's wildest region, surely no one could have imagined that the former malarial marshland would transform into one of its most acclaimed wine regions. Maremma's reputation for wildness is bolstered by the charmingly rustic butteri, cowboys and cattle breeders that are a treasured link to Maremma's past and still roam the landscape.


The beach at Maremma Regional Park, a protected 25,000 acre nature reserve. 

Located in the southern part of Tuscany, Maremma Toscana DOC wines are produced across the entire province of Grosseto. Maremma's almost 9,000 hectares of vineyards span the breezy Maremma coastline, the slopes of the dormant volcano Mount Amiata, the Argentario peninsula, and Giglio Island. This diversity isn't just pleasing to the eye, but it also provides an abundance of unique soil and climatic conditions ideal for growing excellent grapes. And, we all know that excellent wines start with great grapes. Maremma is home to several charming indigenous grapes, including Ciliegiolo, which means little cherry. Ciliegiolo may be unfamiliar, but chances are you know its offspring; it is a parent of Sangiovese, Tuscany's most famous grape variety, and the foundation of many of its greatest wines. But an abundance of indigenous and international grape varieties also thrive in Maremma, including Sangiovese, Vermentino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.

There is no one style of Maremma wine. Maremma's crisp & mineral-driven whites, fruity reds, and complex age-worthy reds reflect the diversity of the terroir and grape varieties. The Consorzio Tutela Vini della Maremma Toscana (Consortium for the Protection of Maremma Toscana Wines), who graciously hosted my 2019 trip, stated that "Ripe fruit, subtle complexity, crispness and a pleasant mouth feel are common characteristics of the wines from Maremma. No other area in Tuscany can offer such a wide variety of wines, also due to the essential characteristics of the grape varieties grown here."

The COVID-19 pandemic may have temporarily clipped our travel wings, but the essence of Maremma is just a bottle away. Fill your glass with wines from one of these Maremma wines and let them transport you. Please note that I opted not to provide detailed tasting notes on the wines. I tasted many wonderful wines during my Maremma trip and these were some of my favorites. For tasting notes and other technical details, please click on the bottle or winemaker image; this will lead you the winery's website for additional information.  

Rocca di Frassinello


A joint venture between the Chianti Classico estate Castellare di Castellina and the iconic French wine producers Domaines Barons de Rothschild - Château Lafite, Rocca di Frassinello is a prime example of the excitement and investment Maremma generates from established winemakers. Founded in 2007, 90 of the estate's 500 hectares are planted to vineyards.

Adding further allure to the estate's natural beauty, Rocca di Frassinello's stunning winery was designed by world-renowned architect Renzo Piano. Under the leadership of award-winning head winemaker Alessandro Cellai, Rocca di Frassinello's wines are acclaimed for their elegance and authenticity.

Suggested Wines: 


Rocca di Frassinello 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 60% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot. $59

Rocca di Frassinello Baffonero 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Merlot. $240



Rocca di Frassinello Le Sughere di Frassinello 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 50% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. $24

L'Azienda Agricola Biologica Basile


I visited Maremma for the first time in 2015, and the afternoon I spent at Basile Organic Wine Farm was one of the highlights. So, it was a great pleasure to see Giovan Battista Basile again during my 2019 visit. Originally from Naples, Giovan left practicing law to work the vineyards when he and his brother Domenico purchased an abandoned hilltop vineyard in Maremma and poured their heart and soul into restoring the land. The winery was founded in 1999 and Giovan manages the organically farmed vineyards and vines.

Suggested Wine: Comandante 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 50% Sangiovese, 50% Merlot. ($25)

Val delle Rose

Famiglia Cecchi, an iconic producer of Chianti Classico, also saw Maremma's tremendous potential and acquired Val delle Rose in 1996. I visited Val delle Rose for the first time in 2015, and it was thrilling to see how the winery has evolved. Never losing sight of crafting wines that are true to the terroir, they also embrace innovation.


During my recent visit, I tasted several wines with winemaker Andrea Fioriello, including compelling expressions of Vermentino and Ciliegiolo. When asked about the aging of their wines in oak, Andrea said, "We use the wood as an instrument to make the wine more ready, more round, more soft." But he's careful to not overdo it and crafts wines with great freshness, grace, and minerality. 

Suggested Wines:


Val delle Rose Cobalto 2017 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Vermentino. A unique Vermentino that was fermented in a combination of amphora, oak, and stainless steel vessels and aged 10 months on the lees. $26 


Val delle Rose Ciliegiolo 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Ciliegiolo. $30

Tenuta Belguardo


Francesco Mazzei, Managing Director of Mazzei, is also president of the Consorzio Tutela Vini della Maremma Toscana. Established in 2014, this consortium of wine grape growers, winemakers, and wine bottlers protects and promotes the quality of Maremma Toscana DOC wines. Mazzei stated, "An appellation has to reflect what a territory is about, and Maremma is a place of many varieties."

Founded in 1435, Mazzei is another venerable Chianti Classico producer that set their sights on Maremma. The Mazzei family purchased their Maremma estate, Tenuta Belguardo, in the mid 1990's. Located in the heart of the Maremma, on the hills between Grosseto and Montiano, and next to the Tyrrhenian Sea, the 70-hectare property has an ideal terroir for cultivating expressive grapes of exceptional quality. 

Suggested Wine: Tenuta Belguardo 2015 Maremma Toscana DOC. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc. $60. 

Fattoria di Magliano


Located in the heart of Maremma, Fattoria di Magliano was founded in 2007. Their consulting winemaker, Graziana Grassini, is one of Italy's most acclaimed enologists and was a protégé of the legendary Giacomo Tachis. Fattoria di Magliano's gorgeous estate includes 52 acres of vineyards where they grow Sangiovese and Vermentino primarily, in addition to Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Ansonica. The wines of Fattoria di Magliano display impressive exuberance and vitality, but are also very elegant and earthy.

Suggested Wines: Fattoria di Magliano Altizi 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Cabernet Franc. $65


Fattoria di Magliano Poggio Bestiale 2014 Maremma Toscana DOC. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot. $60

Rocca di Montemassi

Alessandro Gallo, winemaker and technical director for Rocca di Montemassi hails from Piemonte, but he still typifies the positive energy of the winemakers I met in Maremma: no matter where they're originally from, their love of this land is intense. Alessandro describes Rocca di Montemassi as a "wine farm" where winemaking is in harmony with other agricultural activities.


The 430-hectare estate, of which 180 are planted to vines, is also home to Maremmana cows, wheat fields, and olive trees. The Zonin family, a family with seven generations of winemaking experience and nine wineries in seven of Italy's most important wine regions, acquired the property in 1999.

Suggested Wine: Rocca di Montemassi 2016 Maremma Toscana DOC. 35% Syrah, 35% Petit Verdot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. $30. 

Sassotondo


Agronomist Carla Benini, and her husband Edoardo Ventimiglia, purchased their Maremma estate in 1994 and produced their first vintage in 1997. Sassotondo's organically-farmed vineyards are alive with biodiversity, a testament to Carla's belief that "biodiversity protects you".  Sassotondo's portfolio includes several expressions of Ciliegiolo that were vinified differently to showcase this indigenous grape's capacity to create distinct styles of wine.

Suggested Wine:  Sassotondo Ciliegiolo 2018 Maremma Toscana DOC. 100% Ciliegiolo. ($18)

Maremma is More Than Wine


View from my room at the boutique hotel, Torre Cala Piccola. 

Wine is beautifully integrated into Maremma's culture, but the region is full of treasures.  Stunning landscapes, historical sites, and world-class dining make it a top-notch destination. For accommodations, I recommend the luxurious Terme di Saturnia Spa & Resort, where you can soak your troubles away in their world-famous ancient thermal waters. If you're craving a more laidback seaside vibe, Torre Cala Piccola is perched above the Argentario Sea and has breathtaking views of Giulio and Giannutri islands. Hotel Miramare is no-frills but comfortable and the beach is right at your feet! 

From rustic country fare to haute cuisine, I ate like a queen in Maremma. Recommended restaurants: Da Caino in Montemerano, where Chef Valeria Piccini presents an elegant twist on homestyle cooking.


Chef Valeria Piccini, Da Caino restaurant 



Chef Piccini's "Tortelli Cacio e Pere con Salsa de Barba Rossa (pasta stuffed with pear & cheese, with Barba Rossa grape sauce) 




Seafood lovers will gobble every fresh morsel presented by Chef Massimiliano Ciregia at Osteria del Mare in Castiglione della Pescaia. 

 Chef Ciregia's interpretation of the traditional fish stew, Cucciucco. 

I look forward to returning Maremma again one day and feeling as blissful as I did when this photo was taken in the vineyards of Rocca di Frassinello. Until then, I'll sip and daydream! 

Take Your Palate on a Rosé Adventure: 5 Tasty Pink Wines from 4 Different Countries

Can you even imagine summer without rosé? Luckily, we don't have to! Rosé wines are delicious year-round but there's no denying that these flirty pink sips are particularly suited to the sunny and carefree vibe of the summer season. Pretty and refreshing, rosé wines are a fun way to explore new regions and grapes. I plan on taking my taste buds on a delicious rosé journey all summer long and will keep you updated with short reviews of my favorites. This week's selections include sensational pink wines from Australia, Italy, France, and Spain. Cheers! 

Frescobaldi Alìe 2018 ($18.99)
Tuscany, Italy
About four years ago, I had the pleasure of visiting Frescobaldi's stunning Ammiraglia estate in Tuscany's coastal Maremma region. I recently sipped their elegant Alìe rose at an event in NYC and was instantly transported back to that beautiful time and place. A blend of Syrah and Vermentino, Alìe is pale pink but bursting with lively red fruit flavors. Deliciously dry with a touch of minerality, this refreshing sip is worthy of its name that was inspired by a fabled sea nymph. 

Cape Mentelle Rosè 2018 ($18.99)
Margaret River, Australia
There's lots of flavor in this full-bodied and juicy rosé from Down Under. A bold blend of Shiraz, Grenache, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Mourvèdre, and Viognier; it has lip-smacking flavors of ripe strawberries and cream, peach, melon, and citrus. Crisp acidity keeps it vibrant and lively.

Baron de Ley Rioja Rosé 2018 ($11)
Rioja, Spain
Would you like your rosé with a bit of olé? Try this superb sip from Spain! 100% Garnacha, this pale pink beauty packs plenty of flavor and finesse. Luscious and crisp with juicy flavors of fresh red berries; this is an easy-breezy and elegant vino. 

Esprit Gassier Côtes de Provence 2018 ($22)
Provence, France
No rosé journey is complete without a stop in Provence! This picturesque region in the south of France launched a global obsession with pale pink wines. There is no shortage of excellent rosé from Provence and this elegant offering from Château Gassier doesn't disappoint. A classic blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and Vermentino, this refreshing sip has crisp flavors of red berries, white peach, and a zippy kiss of citrus.

Les Dauphins Côtes du Rhône Rosé Reserve ($10.99)
Côtes du Rhône, France
One of the best values in wine, Les Dauphins rosé is well-made and consistently delicious. A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah, this perky pink sip from the southern Rhône Valley has pretty melon and berry flavors that are fruity with a hint of sweetness and lively acidity. This is a very happy wine! 

Captivated by Cecchi Wines: A True Taste of Tuscany

Andrea Cecchi - winemaker and quintessential Tuscan gentleman. 

"In Italy, wine is still a social activity,"said Andrea Cecchi with a smile. So on a Monday afternoon in Manhattan, while most of the city toiled, I felt no guilt as I was transported to Tuscany by the authenticity, elegance, and charm of Andrea and the superb wines of the Cecchi family. 

Truly a family business, Andrea and his brother Cesare represent the 4th generation of this winemaking legacy that started with their great-grandfather Luigi. Celebrating their 125th anniversary this year, Cecchi symbolizes tradition but also innovation and the brothers don't just coast on the excellent reputation of their Chianti Classico. Cecchi also makes an impressive selection of wines in other regions of Italy; including the Tuscan coastal region of Maremma. 

For many of us in the USA, Chianti was the first red wine that we ever sipped -- usually at an old-fashioned red-sauce Italian-American restaurant. Produced from the Sangiovese grape, Chianti's fruity and earthy flavors make it a very approachable and food-friendly wine. But don't under-estimate it; Chianti may be familiar but it can still surprise you with its complexity and expressiveness. Cecchi is one of the most prominent and respected producers of Chianti & Chianti Classico and they are committed to crafting wines that are true reflections of the grape, terroir, and vintage. 


Cecchi Valore di Famiglia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($59.99)
One of the most exciting developments in Chianti Classico was the introduction of Gran Selezione at the top of the quality pyramid in 2013. Cecchi recently released their debut vintage of Gran Selezione and their 2015 is the finest that I've tasted in the category. There has been some confusion in the marketplace about Gran Selezione - was it just a marketing ploy or a uniquely excellent expression of Chianti Classico? Cecchi Gran Selezione is an outstanding wine that is absolutely worthy of this prestigious designation. One of the unique qualities of Cecchi Gran Selezione is the fact that it is produced from 100% Sangiovese, although the category permits the addition of up to 20% of other grapes. The singular purity of the Sangiovese is powerful and evocative in Cecchi Gran Selezione. Velvety with finely knit tannins and vibrant but not jammy red fruit flavors, Cecchi Gran Selezione is sophisticated and sultry. Absolutely wonderful now, it has the structure and acidity needed to age with grace. A wine I could drink again and again and never tire of it.


 
Cecchi Chianti Classico Storia di Famiglia DOCG 2015 ($21)
I started this story at the top of three-tiered Chianti Classico pyramid with the exceptional, exciting, and new Gran Selezione but Cecchi has thoughtfully crafted wines at every tier and price point. The 2015 vintage of their Chianti Classico, the first level of the quality pyramid, is a great introduction to the Cecchi style. 90% Sangiovese, this bright and approachable wine is silky smooth with fresh flavors of strawberry and raspberry with flirty hints of spice. 



Cecchi Chianti Classico Riserva di Famiglia DOCG 2014 ($36)
Representing the middle tier of the three-tiered Chianti Classico pyramid, Cecchi Riserva is 90% Sangiovese and has its own style: refined and sultry with dark and ripe fruit flavors, soft tannins, and a thread of spice and herbs. 



Cecchi La Mora Vermentino Maremma Toscana DOC 2017 ($18.99)
As mentioned, Cecchi makes wine beyond the Chianti Classico region and one of their most exciting ventures has been their expansion into the coastal Maremma region, considered Tuscany's wild frontier. I visited Cecchi's Maremma winery, Val delle Rose, about 2 years ago and it is a stunningly beautiful property. The name La Mora, which means horse, was inspired by the majestic dark horses and Italian cowboys that once roamed the region. Andrea said that their La Mora wines are crafted to offer "good quality at a reasonable price." Vermentino is one of my favorite Italian wines and crisp and refreshing La Mora is a charming example. Andrea said that "2017 was a great vintage" and La Mora Vermentino is juicy and pleasant with vivacious flavors of citrus and pineapple that are balanced by minerality. A great alternative to the ubiquitous Pinot Grigio. 

"We want to express the origin of our wines," said Andrea. From Chianti Classico to Maremma, Cecchi wines have a compelling sense of place. You'll also notice that all of Cecchi's Chianti Classico wines include the word famiglia in their name; the love of family and devotion to legacy is truly at the heart of this 125 year old winery. When your family's name is on the bottle, wine transcends from beverage to a beloved representation of past, present, and future. The Cecchi family can rest well at night knowing that their wines are representing them well around the globe. From casual meals of pizza and pasta to more elaborate fare, you can serve Cecchi wines to your family and friends with pride.
 

A Timeless Taste of Tuscany: The Wines of Cecchi

When your family has been making quality wine since 1893, it takes an extraordinary amount of work and dedication to maintain such an impressive legacy. But perhaps more than anything, winemaking at this level requires passion without limits. This passion fuels the Cecchi brothers, Andrea and Cesare, as they guide their family through another era of extraordinary winemaking where tradition and innovation co-exist beautifully. 

I recently had the pleasure of sharing wine and conversation with Andrea Cecchi during one of his whirlwind visits to New York. The quintessential Tuscan gentleman, Andrea has an elegant but approachable demeanor and Cecchi wines also exude grace, warmth, and openness. 



La Mora Vermentino 2014 ($19.99)
Tuscany is known throughout the world for exceptional red wines but don't ignore the whites. Cecchi produces this pretty Vermentino in the coastal Maremma region.  Vibrant and refreshing with perky citrus and floral notes, La Mora Vermentino is Tuscan sunshine in a glass. A perfect apéritif and an absolutely winning match with seafood. 

La Mora Morellino di Scansano 2013 ($22.99)
Everyone who loves Chianti should give Morellino di Scansano a swirl to experience a different expression of the Sangiovese grape. Morellino is the local name for Sangiovese in the Maremma region and Scansano is a village in the region. Maremma's gentle sea breezes and diverse soils nurture grapes with soft tannins. Soft and round with hints of red cherry, this juicy red from the Maremma region is easy elegance personified. Pair with pasta, meat, and even a burger. 


Cecchi Chianti Classico 2014 ($20.99)
Look closely at the label of this bottle and you will see gold script that says "Storia di Famiglia" - family history. This is the vino that tells the Cecchi story to wine lovers around the world. Well-structured with a rustic elegance, this wine really captures the essence of Chianti Classico with its earthiness and flavors of dark cherries. Pair with hearty dishes and sharp cheeses. 2016 marks the 300th anniversary of Chianti Classico and a bottle of Cecchi is a delicious way to celebrate the occasion. 



Cecchi Chianti Classico Riserva di Famiglia 2013 ($40.99)
Refined and nuanced, Cecchi only produces this wine in years that the grape harvest is of the highest quality. Aged for 14 months in oak casks before bottling and then bottle-aged for another 4 months before release, the Sangiovese grows in richness and complexity. As the wine breathes, it opens up to reveal gorgeous flavors of rich cherries, black currants, and plums that are balanced by a touch of spice and earth. This is the wine I would reach for when eating a rare and juicy Porterhouse steak/Bistecca Fiorentina. 



Cecchi COEVO 2011 ($105.99)
This wine holds a very special meaning for the Cecchi brothers because it was inspired by their late father, Luigi. Signore Cecchi was enamored of the Maremma region and COEVO (which means contemporary) combines the more modern style of the Maremma wines with the classic techniques of Chianti Classico. This outstanding tribute is a blend of Sangiovese combined with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. COEVO is full-bodied but elegant and silky with impressive freshness, minerality, and balance - it will elevate every meal to a higher level. A wonderful match with roasts, braised & grilled meats, and aged cheeses.

It was such an honor to share these wines with Andrea Cecchi. Cecchi's excellent wines certainly speak for themselves but our conversation reminded me of wine's unique ability to create a bridge between people of different cultures. The world needs more of that. Cheers! 



P.S. If you're planning a trip to Tuscany, Cecchi welcomes visitors at Villa Cerna in the heart of Chianti Classico and at Val delle Rose in the Maremma (I was at the Maremma winery last year and it is stunning!)
 

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