Why don’t I drink more Grüner Veltliner? That’s the question I asked myself after attending a tasting with Domäne Wachau winemaker Heinz Frischengruber. Austria’s most significant white wine, Grüner Veltliner is racy and refreshing. Domäne Wachau’s portfolio of Grüner Veltliner, including single vineyard selections, showcases a beautiful range of wines from fresh and flirty to fuller-bodied and more nuanced.
Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Terrassen 2018 ($18) is a fantastic introduction to the varietal. The grapes were sourced from steeply terraced vineyards throughout the Wachau Valley. Crisp and refreshing with lively, but not aggressive acidity, it’s freshness and pronounced minerality make it a fantastic alternative to Sauvignon Blanc. The official tasting notes say "this wine offers distinctive aromas of green apple, white pepper, hints of mango, balanced with delicate herbal notes. This Federspiel is a traditional example of Grüner Veltliner with its medium-body crisp acidity, juicy fruits and white spice on the finish."
Domäne Wachau is a cooperative of 250 grape farmers but winemaker and Wachau Valley native Heinz Frischengruber oversees production. In addition to his formal wine studies, Heinz also spent time in California, South Africa, and Germany and says that his time abroad helped him to become more open-minded and appreciate the importance of the philosophy of wine, not just technique.
If you really want to geek out on Grüner Veltliner, try a bottle of Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Ried Liebenberg 2018 ($25). The Liebenberg vineyard dates back to the 14th century and produces a more robust and powerful expression of Grüner Veltliner without sacrificing the signature freshness and minerality. The official tasting notes say, "the wine shows hints of ripe yellow apple, white peach, spicy notes of pepper and subtle hints of papaya; the palate is pronounced with a salty character, juicy fruit and lively acidity that complement the long lasting and powerful mouthfeel."
If your travels take you to Austria, Domäne Wachau was ranked #19 on the 2019 list of Top 50 World's Best Vineyards. Tours and tastings are available. In addition to Grüner Veltliner, Domäne Wachau also produces a lovely range of Riesling.
