Wine With Wanda

The Future Sparkles at Champagne Piper-Heidsieck

Following in the footsteps of a legend might rattle some people, but Champagne Piper-Heidsieck's "newish" chief winemaker, Émilien Boutillat, is already laying the foundation for his own icon status.

Émilien's predecessor, Régis Camus, looms large over the Piper-Heidsieck legacy; he held the position for nearly three decades and was named Sparkling Winemaker of the Year a record eight times at the International Wine Challenge. Émilien was appointed chief winemaker in 2018 and is already poised to have a similar winning streak in the future; in 2021, he was honored as Sparkling Winemaker of the Year. At 35 years old, Émilien is the youngest chief winemaker in the history of Piper-Heidsieck. He has many decades ahead of him to make his mark.

A native of Champagne, born into a family of winegrowers, Émilien's passion for the world of wine started at a young age. In addition to the knowledge garnered from previous generations, he studied viticulture, enology, and agricultural engineering at the university level.

I recently had the pleasure of reconnecting with Émilien on his recent visit to New York City. Like many of us, Émilien is happy to be traveling the world again after more than two years of social distancing. And when Émilien shows up, he brings beautiful wines, charm, and good humor. He mentioned that improvisational theater is one of his hobbies. Émilien's ease at being bombarded by a trio of NYC wine writers with a never-ending stream of questions reflected his talent for thinking on his feet.

Founded in 1785, Piper-Heidsieck certainly needs no introduction among Champagne lovers. Their crisp and elegant Cuvée Brut NV ($66) is the House’s signature bubbly, known around the world for its consistent quality.

A blend of Pinot Noir (50-55%), Meunier (30-35%), and Chardonnay (15-20%), the grapes represent 100 crus from across Champagne. It is aged on the lees for a minimum of 24 months. Round and crisp with bright flavors of apple, pear, white peach, and that sultry touch of toasted bread, Cuvée Brut is a crowd pleaser that always adds a dash of ooh la la to the moment.

Cuvée Brut is Piper-Heidsieck's signature bubbly, but Essentiel ($70) shows how the House pushes forward with new expressions of Champagne. Pinot Noir (45%) also dominates this blend and is combined with Meunier (36%) and Chardonnay (19%). But, in addition to the slightly different percentages of each grape in the blend, Essentiel distinguishes itself from Cuvée Brut in some fundamental ways. The grape selection is limited to 50 crus instead of 100. It was aged about a year longer on the lees, for a minimum of 36 months, instead of 24. And it is crafted in an Extra-Brut style. Ripe and full, the slightly drier style of Champagne is still impressively rich with luscious flavors of plum, poached pear, and a kiss of honey mingled with brioche. This bubbly has the weight needed to pair with roast chicken, fish, and pork but still has impressive energy and verve.

Piper-Heidsieck Brut 2014 ($97) is a compelling snapshot of the vintage. 2014 was marked by a cool and rainy summer, but September sunshine provided the warm and dry conditions needed for the grapes to achieve a balance of ripeness and freshness. A blend of Pinot Noir (55%) and Chardonnay (45%), the grapes represent 19 crus, including 87% Grands and Premiers Crus. Aged on the lees a minimum of 5 years, 2014 emerges from the bottle sultry and bold, ready to steal the show. Pops of ginger, licorice, and toast bring an energetic and savory touch to the rich and ripe fruit. It is a fine example of a gastronomic style of Champagne that can pair beautifully with rich foods. Its crisp acidity makes it an especially good match with creamy foods. If you're looking for an inspired high-low pairing, try 2014 with lobster mac & cheese: Émilien was dubious initially, but this combination wowed him during our dinner.

I look forward to following Émilien's career as a winemaker; his blend of enthusiasm, deep roots in Champagne, technical know-how, and vision for the future point toward an impressive tenure at Piper-Heidsieck. “Sustainability is a key pillar today and for the future. In the vineyard and beyond. It's good for the planet and good for the people", said Emilien.

Don't worry, darlings; Piper-Heidsieck is in excellent hands.

Chapoutier for the Holidays!

Add some ooh la la to the holidays with the wines of M.Chapoutier! I’m a big fan of Chapoutier’s elegant, terroir-driven, and authentic wines; they always add a bit of magic to meals and time together with friends and family.

I took this photo of Michel Chapoutier when we met in 2018. 

The Chapoutier family has been making wine in the Rhône Valley since 1808, but 1990 was a turning point in their history. With the bold visionary Michel Chapoutier at the helm, the family winery became a trailblazing powerhouse. Under Michel’s leadership, Chapoutier introduced Single Vineyard Selection wines that express the unique terroir of a site. To ensure that visually impaired wine lovers could access the information on his wine labels, Chapoutier began embossing their labels in braille. Also, since 1990, the Maison M. CHAPOUTIER has been unwavering in their commitment to practicing biodynamic viticulture. Care for the land and concern for others doesn’t just drive Chapoutier to make great wine, but to make a difference. 

I’ll be adding some ooh la la to the holidays with two Chapoutier wines.

Les Meysonniers Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2019 ($45) is 100% Marsanne from gently sloping south-facing hillsides. It is described as a white wine that “epitomizes the character of Marsanne in Crozes-Hermitage”. “The nose is full of quince, peony, and roasted almonds and the palate is fresh and supple.”

Monier de la Sizeranne Hermitage 2016 ($162) is 100% Syrah sourced from three vineyards with different soil types. The winemaker's notes say, “Red fruits with a hint of liquorice are evident on the nose. The palate is round and elegant with flavours of blackcurrant, raspberry and spicy aromas when it is young."

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Elegant Sips from the South of France: The Wines of Maison Lorgeril

Miren de Lorgeril, CEO, Maison Lorgeril

Talk about Old World: the Lorgeril family has been making wine since 1620. But these prominent vintners are not stuck in the past. I recently had the pleasure of chatting on Instagram Live with Miren de Lorgeril, CEO of Maison Lorgeril, and discovered that the family enthusiastically embraces innovation without sacrificing authenticity. Lorgeril has expanded their footprint in the South of France, and they currently own six wineries in nine appellations of Languedoc and Roussillon.

During our chat, we tasted Lorgeril's Domaine de La Borie Blanche 2019, AOP Mivervois La Laviniere (Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvédre, $27) and Chàteau de Pennautier 2019, AOP Cabarde (Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Grenache, $27). Elegant and beautifully balanced, these wines have a depth of flavor – fruit, minerality, and bright acidity. Miren explains how terroir, including Lorgeril's high-altitude vineyards, influences their flavor profile. For Miren's tasting notes, watch the video below, or click this link.

Vitalie Taittinger Leads an Effervescent Evolution at Champagne Taittinger

“If we consider that Champagne is only tradition, we will create the old Champagne, and I never want to, because Champagne is a lively brand, a lively product,” she says.“This is bubbly; this is sparkling; this is crispy. So, it has to breathe, and it has to continue to evolve.” - Vitalie Taittinger

I recently had the pleasure of interviewing Vitalie Tattinger, president and CEO of Champagne Taittinger, for The SOMM Journal. Founded nearly a century ago, Champagne Taittinger is one of the few remaining family-owned and operated Champagne houses. You can find the profile on page 4 of the October/November 2021issue. 

 

Make Each Moment Sparkle with Champagne Delamotte

Cristian Rimoldi, Export Director, Champagne Delamotte 

The 2021 season of Wine With Wanda on Instagram Live kicked off on a sparkling note with Champagne Delamotte. My special guest was the House's export director, Cristian Rimoldi. Founded in Reims in 1760, at more than 250 years old, Delamotte is the fifth oldest house in Champagne.

Watch our chat on IGTV, YouTube, or by clicking the video below. In addition to discussing Delamotte's rich history, Cristian shared his personal and professional journey from the Argentinian Pampa to France. During out chat, we tasted Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blancs NV ($90.99) and Champagne Delamotte Brut Rosé NV ($105.99). I completely agree with Cristian's sentiment that elegant and refreshing Champagne Delamotte can be enjoyed morning, noon, and night, and paired with a wide variety of cuisine. 

The Secret's in the Soil: A Tasting of Limestone and Volcanic Riesling from Alsace

When that Riesling feeling hits, no other sip will do. I recently opened a beautiful bottle produced by a 9th generation family winery in Alsace: Domaine Sipp Mack Riesling Grand Cru Rosacker 2015 ($49). Located in the northeast of France, Alsace is one of the world’s most geologically diverse wine regions. 13 distinct soil types have been identified in Alsace and each imparts a distinct fingerprint on the flavor of the wines. The grapes for Domaine Sipp Mack Riesling grew in limestone soil, which imbues the wines with vibrant lemony flavors and snappy minerality. This is a dry Riesling but the fruit sings. In addition to Meyer lemon, I taste white peach, a hint of honeycomb, and a kiss of salinity. 

My adventures in Riesling from Alsace continued with Wolfberger Riesling Grand Cru Rangen 2016 ($57). Rangen is Alsace's southernmost Grand Cru and the only one located on volcanic soils. Rangen’s mineral-rich soils enrich the grapes with an elegant intensity. Rangen means slope in Old German and some of the vineyards are so steep that they are harvested by rappelling down. Wolfberger Riesling Grand Cru is a more muscular, yet very refined, dry Riesling with power, tension, and the bold minerality one expects from volcanic soils. Flavors of preserved lemon, grapefruit, and pear mesh nicely with hints of savory herbs and soft mint. This a Riesling that will age beautifully!

 

 

Stay Safe, Sip Well: Sparkling Wines for Trying Times

2021 has finally arrived, and it’s a new year like no other. Let’s face it; the world remains in turmoil, and people are suffering. I’m approaching this new chapter with cautious optimism, and I look forward to the day that we can hug, travel, and spend time together again. These long months of social distancing have not been easy, but time at home has also been a blessing. Time to read, relax, and just be still. Time to really think about my life and the people in it. Long phone chats and Zoom happy hours have strengthened my relationships with the most important people in my life. There’s no event to rush off to, no plane to catch. There’s time now.

Time at home has also changed my relationship with wine. As a wine writer, most of my professional tasting experiences revolved around a rollercoaster of wine events. It had become entirely normal to attend several tastings a week, sometimes 3-4 events a day. It was exhilarating and exhausting. Now that I taste wine at home, I don’t feel rushed. I do miss the camaraderie, but drinking at my own pace has improved my tasting skills. The best wines often need time to evolve in the glass, and being able to take that journey of taste from the comfort of my sofa, has reminded me why I love wine so much.

More than anything, I’ve learned not to wait for a special occasion to open a beautiful bottle of wine. Who knows what tomorrow will bring? And the right wine can add a bit of magic to a long day at home. I know that we just wrapped up the holiday season, and many bottles of bubbly were popped on New Year’s Eve. But why wait? I’m a big fan of sparkling wine and pop open a bottle at least twice a week. I may be wearing black yoga pants instead of a little black dress, but bubbly adds a touch of glamour to takeout and Netflix.

I’m such a fan of sparkling wine that I recently moderated a panel, New York Bubblies for New Year’s Eve, for the New York Wine & Grape Foundation. It featured sparkling wines from five great New York producers: Buttonwood Grove Winery, Channing Daughters Winery, Damiani Wine Cellars, Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard/Standing Stone Vineyards, and Lakewood Vineyards. When it comes to sparkling wine, NY really does have it all: Pét-Nat, traditional method, local hybrid grapes and international varieties. Click here to learn more and watch the tasting. 

I’ve also had the pleasure of sipping some fantastic Champagnes over the past few months. If you’re looking to treat yourself, I highly recommend sips from Champagne Ayala, Champagne Leclerc Briant, and Champagne Lanson. Stay safe and drink well!

 

 

Celebrating the Sparkling Legacy of Champagne Henriot

 

Amelie Derrieux-Sable, Director of Marketing, Champagne Henriot

I’m still smiling after my sparkling Instagram Live conversation with Amelie Derrieux‑Sable​, Director of Marketing for Champagne Henriot. Known for their distinctive Chardonnay driven style, Champagne Henriot was founded in Reims in 1808 and is one of the few remaining family-owned houses in Champagne.

Watch our chat and tasting by clicking the video above, on Instagram, or YouTube. We started off with their flagship Champagne Henriot Blanc de Blancs ($65). Aged for 4 years on the lees, it is an elegant expression of Chardonnay that sashays across the palate with delicate bubbles, crisp fruit, and that lovely touch of brioche that I always look for in Champagne. We then tasted Champagne Henriot Millésime 2008 ($100), which marks the House’s 200^th vintage. A 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the 2008 was aged for 10 years on the lees and has a captivating complexity -- hints of nuts and ginger meld beautifully with vibrant fruit and crisp minerality.

Champagne isn't just for toasting! From appetizers to main courses, Amelie provided some wonderful pairing suggestions that show how beautifully Champagne Henriot can be enjoyed throughout the meal. And if you’re wondering how to pronounce Henriot, Amelie says just remember that the H & T are silent! 

Look to the Loire Valley for Fresh, Fruity, and Food-Friendly Chenin Blanc

Savennières, Loire Valley
image courtesy of Loire Valley Wines

Like many of you, it's been at least six months since I've traveled beyond my hometown's borders. Hopping a flight for a wine-centric journey fuels my daydreams, but I'm continuing to explore the world through wine. Recently, I took a virtual journey to the Loire Valley with three charming Chenin Blanc wines. Known as the Garden of France, the Loire Valley is France's leading producer of white wines, and the indigenous Chenin Blanc grape is the heart and soul of many of these wines. Because of its natural acidity and fruitiness, Chenin Blanc is incredibly versatile and can produce sweet, dry, sparkling, lean, or rich wines. There's a style of Loire Valley Chenin Blanc that's just right for each mood and meal, and many of these wines are very affordable. 



I was recently invited by Loire Valley Wines to taste a trio of Chenin Blanc wines from three different AOC's –   Saumur, Vouvray, and Savennières. 



Aromatic and luscious Domaine de L'Enchantoir Terres Blanches Saumur 2018 ($20) is a charming thirst-quencher with fresh citrus and chamomile flavors. 

La Forcine Vouvray Demi-Sec 2018 ($15) is a perky sip with lively flavors of citrus and tropical fruits. A lovely choice for those moments when you're craving wine with a hint of sweetness. 



Château d’Épiré Savennières Grand Cru d'Anjou 2017 ($25) is an elegant expression of a dry Chenin Blanc that is still delightfully fruit-forward. Crisp and clean with stone fruit, citrus, and mineral flavors. 

Grilled halloumi cheese served with marinated grapes, olive oil and mint. Fish a la Plancha, sesame soy-glaze with sautéed kale and radish.  

I paired my wines with a meal inspired by the flavors of South African and Israeli cuisine from Jack's Wife Freda restaurant in NYC – thank goodness for delivery. But Loire Valley Chenin Blanc is incredibly versatile and can pair brilliantly with a range of flavors. Pop a bottle and pair it with seafood, salad, mild cheeses, roasted chicken with herbs, simple pasta dishes, spicy foods, and Asian flavors. 

From Bordeaux and Sonoma, With Love: The Wines of Château Lassègue and Vérité

Nicolas & Christina Seillan

I can’t resist beautiful wines and a great love story, and my recent Instagram Live chat with Christina and Nicolas Seillan delivered both. A seventh-generation winemaker, Nicolas is the vigneron at Château Lassègue in Bordeaux and manages production with his wife, Christina. Back in the USA, his father, Pierre Seillan and his daughter Hélène are the winemaker and assistant winemaker at Vérité in Sonoma. Both wineries are a joint venture with Jackson Family Wines. And if you ever doubted the power of wine to bring people together, Nicolas and Christina met when he addressed a wine group that she belonged to -- the Yale Law Wine Society.

During our chat, we discussed the history of both wineries, the common threads between the wines that the family produces in Bordeaux and Sonoma, and why we shouldn’t overthink wine and lose sight that “wine is something that’s meant to be enjoyed and shared.” To watch the entire conversation, click the video above, or watch on IGTV, or YouTube. 


While chatting, we sipped Lassègue Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2016 ($60) and Vérité Le Désir 2016 ($425). Both red blends are bold and elegant with an authentic sense of place and examples of meticulous and passionate winemaking.

Burgundy Unfiltered: Domaine du Cellier aux Moines Pinot Noir is Rich in History & Soul

"Wine is a matter of personal search. People should not be shy and should go their own way. Sometimes I have friends bringing me a bottle of wine coming from another village, another region, and it's always fun to discover. Don't be shy. You don't have to be educated to appreciate wine. Listen to your feelings, your sense, your palate. Wine is not complicated. Wine is a matter of pleasure. Don't make it more complicated than it is." 

- Philippe Pascal, Owner, Domaine du Cellier aux Moines

I must confess that I approached my recent Instagram Live chat with Philippe Pascal, owner of Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, with a bit of trepidation. In addition to my worries about my very shaky pronunciation of French, I wondered if the owner of a prestigious Burgundy estate might be too serious for the inherent goofiness and spontaneity of Instagram Live. Well, I am happy to say that my fears were unfounded. Down-to-earth, funny, knowledgeable, and passionate, Phillipe was a fascinating guest. And he was completely unbothered by the honks and sirens wafting in from my busy Manhattan street!

Click here to watch our chat on IGTV. 

In 2004, Philippe, and his wife Catherine, left the corporate world behind and purchased Domaine du Cellier aux Moines. Founded in 1130 by Cistercian monks, over the centuries, the monks survived wars and plagues and produced wines that graced the tables of royalty and popes. When Catherine and Philippe purchased the property, it was in danger of disappearing, and they meticulously restored the estate’s ancient buildings and wine cellar.

For fans of Pinot Noir, Burgundy represents the crème de la crème, and the wines are loved for their authentic sense of place, elegance, and longevity. But my conversation with Philippe reminded me that Burgundy is not a monolith. Domaine du Cellier aux Moines is located in the Côte Chalonnaise, in Givry, an area that Philippe describes as underappreciated.

I encourage you to watch the video above, on IGTV, or YouTube. Philippe engagingly weaves historical facts with his personal journey. And his charming daughter Margot even joined us on camera occasionally and showed me their gorgeous vineyards. And if you want to learn even more, pour yourself a glass while reading Nine Centuries in the Heart of Burgundy: The Cellier Aux Moines and Its Vineyards, which was co-authored by Philippe.

While chatting, we sipped Clos du Cellier aux Moines, Givry Premier Cru 2017 ($65). 100% Pinot Noir, as all wines classified as red Burgundy are, this is a voluptuous, complex, and captivating red wine. Far from austere but still extremely elegant, this unfiltered red is full of life and character.

Taste the Terroir: Ferraton Père & Fils Syrah from the Rhône Valley

Patrick Rigoulet, wine director, Ferraton Père & Fils 

Travel may be tricky at this time but I recently took my palate on a journey to the Rhône Valley, in the south of France, with the wines of Ferraton Père & Fils. Founded in 1946, in 1998 Ferraton partnered with world-renowned winemaker Michel Chapoutier, who led their transition to biodynamic viticulture. I recently went behind the label of Ferraton in a lively Instagram Live conversation with wine director, Patrick Rigoulet. Patrick obtained his master’s degree in wine business management from the Burgundy Business School and joined the team at Ferraton Père & Fils in 2015. 

Watch our chat and wine tasting by clicking the video above, or by visiting IGTV or YouTube.

100% Syrah blended from different vineyard plots, ripe but not jammy, with plump black fruit flavors and kicky spice. 

During our conversation, Patrick and I tasted two of Ferraton's wonderful 100% Syrah wines: Ferraton Crozes-Hermitage Calendes 2016 ($35) and the single-vineyard Ferraton St-Joseph Lieu-Dit Bonneveau 2016 ($55). Both wines beautifully express Ferraton's commitment to crafting wines that are true expressions of terroir, including the granite soils which imbue their Syrah with so much character. Patrick also shared a useful overview of the geography and terroir of the Rhône Valley, describes why Syrah from this region is so highly-regarded, and extols the food pairing versatility of Syrah. 

A richer and more intense expression of Syrah, this single-vineyard wine has flavors of luscious black & red fruits, delicate tannins, spice, herbs, and minerality. 

Visit the Ferraton or Sera Wine Imports websites to learn more about their full portfolio of wines. 

The Sparkling Torch Passes at Champagne Boizel

Florent and Evelyne Roques-Boizel represent the 6th and 5th generations of Champagne Boizel. 

I may never again witness a passing of the torch as elegant and heartfelt as the tender moment between Evelyne Roques-Boizel and her son Florent Roques-Boizel. After more than 40 years of leading her family’s respected 185-year-old Champagne house, Evelyne has entrusted Florent with the family’s legacy and he has been appointed CEO. 


A woman of exceptional strength and character, Evelyne unexpectedly found herself leading Champagne Boizel at the age of 22 when her father and brother passed away within 2 years of each other. During that tumultuous time, Evelyne’s primary focus was keeping the family business afloat. But along the way she developed an authentic and profound passion for Champagne. Evelyne believes that “passion keeps you modest because there is always something to learn.” In my conversation with Florent, it was clear that he shares his mother’s passion for Champagne and is committed to maintaining her exacting standards. Champagne Boizel is in very good hands. 

Founded in 1834, Boizel is located in the heart of Epernay, on the iconic Avenue de Champagne. Crafting their wines with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sourced exclusively from Champagne’s most coveted Grands and Premiers Crus, Boizel uses only the first pressings of the grapes and dosage is kept to a minimum to preserve the wine’s natural expression. All of their wines are aged sur lie (on the lees) in their historic chalk cellars for a minimum of 3 years, and that aging process climbs to 15 years and beyond for the best vintages. That extended aging time noticeably adds complexity and texture to their wines. Fresh and elegant with delicate yet perky bubbles, Champagne Boizel’s wines are crisp, rich, and round; they sing with passion and precision.

Champagne Boizel Brut Réserve NV ($50) is a charming introduction to their House style. A fresh and crisp blend of Pinot Noir (55%), Chardonnay (30%) and Pinot Meunier (15%) that was aged three years sur lie in bottle, its flavors of citrus, apple, brioche, and white peach are vibrant and balanced. 

Such an elegant rosé! Champagne Boizel Rosé NV ($62) is a blend of Pinot Noir (50%), Pinot Meunier (30%) and Chardonnay (20%) that was aged for three years sur lie in bottle. The captivating color matches the energy of its crisp and vibrant raspberry, strawberry, and citrus flavors. 

Florent told me that their 100% Chardonnay Champagne Boizel Blanc de Blancs NV ($82) was the favorite of his father’s, whom they affectionately nicknamed “Mr. Chardonnay”! If you share my love of super-crisp, very mineral, and tantalizingly chalky Champagnes, this is the bubbly for you. Aged four years sur lie in bottle, layers of flavors and textures pirouette across the palate. Classic but not boring, this beauty has power and grace.

With zero dosage (no added sugar), Champagne Boizel “Ultime” Extra Brut NV ($90) is a very direct expression of terroir. Aged six years sur lie in bottle, this blend of Pinot Noir (50%), Chardonnay (37%), and Pinot Meunier (13%) displays a compelling medley of fruit, mineral, and savory flavors.

Only produced in the best years, Champagne Boizel Grand Vintage 2008 ($100) is a fine example of exceptional Champagne’s capacity for long aging. A blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir, this regal bubbly was aged 8 years sur lie in bottle. Still impressively fresh and lively, it is bold but not aggressive with a delightful interplay between citrus and nutty flavors. (2007 pictured but I tasted the 2008 vintage.)

A blend of 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay, Champagne Boizel “Joyau de France" Brut 2000 ($150) is produced only in the best years. Talk about extended aging – it spends an impressive 12 years aging sur lie in bottle. Bursting with vitality, it is crisp and mineral with tantalizing tinges of honey, almond, and marzipan.

Sip This: Lassègue Saint Émilion Grand Cru 2016

Trends come and go but Bordeaux is timeless. In a world of ever-changing wine fads, there’s something reassuring about sipping an Old World wine with a long tradition. But don’t mistake tradition for stagnation. Each vintage and each producer has a unique story to tell.

Since being introduced to Lassègue Saint Émilion Grand Cru several years ago, I’ve started to anticipate the subtle variations created in each vintage by that year’s climate conditions at their vineyards on the Right Bank of the Dordogne River. Will the wine be bigger and more robust because of a heat wave? Or more subdued because of cooler conditions? How will Lassègue’s winemaker, the acclaimed Pierre Seillan, adjust the blend in response to those variations? Lassègue consistently impresses me with their ability to create a wine that is an authentic representation of each particular vintage yet remains true to their style and terroir.

Château Lassègue was built in 1738. The striking structure and its 60 acres of vineyards were purchased by the Jackson and Seillan families in 2003. 
image courtesy of Château Lassègue

Lassègue Saint Émilion Grand Cru 2016 ($60) is a blend of Merlot (60%), Cabernet Franc (33%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (7%) from old vines with an average age of 40-60 years. According to the winery, “The 2016 vintage was characterised by a mild and wet winter and spring, followed by warm, sunny and dry conditions from July through harvest.” And “the dry and sunny summer helped the vines to flourish, resulting in perfectly healthy grapes at harvest.” The beautiful balance and vitality of this wine reflects the influence of those ideal conditions.

image courtesy of Château Lassègue

Luscious and rich but not overwhelming, 2016 Lassègue was aged for 12 months in French oak and has bold flavors of blackberry and plum with tangy pops of black licorice, dark chocolate, espresso bean, sweet clove, and earthy truffles. Vibrant acidity and a minerality that is delicately chalky with a thread of steely flint, make the wine lively and approachable without diminishing its grandeur. This is an exceptionally elegant Bordeaux. 

Sparkling Spotlight: Meet Régis Camus, The Rare Talent Who Makes Rare Champagne

It takes a winemaker with exceptional talent and confidence to craft a champagne that lives up to the audacious name Rare. Régis Camus is such a winemaker. Quite frankly, Régis is the standard by which I judge all other champagne makers. And I’m not alone in my high opinion of his skills – Régis has been honored 8 times as Sparkling Winemaker of the Year by the International Wine Challenge. Yes, Régis has clearly mastered the art of making bubbly.

In 2018, Régis retired from Piper-Heidsieck after a tenure of 22 years, including 16 years in the prestigious role of cellar master. But you would have been foolish to count him out. Régis is now the cellar master for the House’s exclusive Rare Champagne. Produced only in the most exceptional vintages, only 11 vintages of Rare have been created in the last four decades. 

Over the years, I’ve had the honor of tasting several vintages of Rare with Régis. The exquisite beauty of Rare Champagne is rivaled only by his humility and humor. In our laughter-filled tastings, it has become clear to me that making champagne isn’t just his career, it is Régis’s calling. The accolades are certainly well-deserved but I am convinced that Régis would pour his heart into making exquisite champagne even if no one noticed. But we do notice.

Rare is always released to great fanfare and Champagne connoisseurs know that only exceptional bottles of bubbly are worthy of being bottled as Rare. It is vital for Régis that Rare Champagne has spicy notes and he told me that he will only deem a vintage Rare if freshness, minerality, and exotic notes are there. If not, he won’t make it. For that reason, no vintage was declared since 2002, until 2006.

“Rare Millésime 2006 is immediately delectable, both oriental and fresh, mature and warm. Thanks to its almost paradoxical mineral and opulent tautness, it shows substantial potential for expression.”
Régis Camus

Régis always provides succinct descriptions that capture the essence of each Rare vintage and has declared Rare 2006 ($175) as SUNNY. In 2006, copious sunshine with moderate temperatures increased the opulence of the grapes. Always a blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, Régis said that Rare is always an “authentic image of the vintage.” Cellared for thirteen years, Rare 2006 has aged beautifully. It is very generous on the palate but still maintains a youthful energy. And its rich golden hue certainly evokes the warmth and brilliance of sunshine.

“I had already produced the first Rare Champagne rosé vintage in 2007. I took the liberty the following year of creating a successor, which would not be discovered until a decade later. Rare Rosé Millésime 2008 proves to be decisively graceful and mineral, much like a Mondrian, with nuances of quartz.”
Régis Camus

Rare Rosé 2008 ($450) is only the second vintage of rosé, Rare Rosé 2007 was the first. While the 2007 was described as SENSUAL, Régis has deemed Rare Rosé 2008 to be PRECISELY GRACIOUS. The first thing you notice is the beautiful shade of coppery pink, reminiscent of pink quartz. Régis spoke of the challenges of making the color consistent and his disdain for rosé that is more orange than pink. A blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, Régis is adamant that Rare Rosé display vibrant fruit and color but not aggressive tannins. Silky and delicate but impactful, Rare Rosé 2008 is sexy and elegant with a subtle sensuality. It swept me off my feet.

Yes, Rare 2006 and Rare Rosé 2008 are splurges but these impeccably crafted wines take you on a journey that reveals the unique power and beauty of vintage Champagne and the dedication, passion, and precision required to make wine at this level. With great anticipation, I await Régis’s declaration of the next Rare vintages.

Joy in a Glass: Fresh & Festive Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau

Franck and Anne Duboeuf with the newly released 2019 vintage of their family's Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau. 

Art, science, history, and culture, wine can be analyzed from many angles but let’s not diminish wine’s role as a great source of pleasure and its powerful ability to bring people together. Beaujolais Nouveau is unabashed in celebrating the joyous nature of wine. Call it clever marketing, but Beaujolais Nouveau’s official release on the third Thursday of November, is probably the world’s most famous wine holiday. There’s something quite endearing about the notion of wine lovers around the world eagerly awaiting the new vintage. And when I think of Beaujolais Nouveau, Georges Duboeuf is the first name that comes to mind.

My father, a classically trained chef, gave me my first bottle of wine when I was a nerdy but gastronomically curious 16-year-old. That wine was Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau. I’m sure my father never imagined that one day I would be invited to taste the 2019 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau with Anne and Franck Duboeuf. 

Franck and Georges Duboeuf
image courtesy of Quintessential Wines

Sipping with Anne and Franck was an important reminder that although Georges Duboeuf is an internationally recognized winery, there is a real family at the heart of the business. The Duboeuf family has been associated with wine for four centuries and Franck’s father Georges founded his eponymous winery in 1964. In 1974, they released their first commercial vintage of Beaujolais Nouveau and when it finally came to the United States in 1983, Americans were giddy with excitement and quickly embraced this unintimidating French wine.

While we often evaluate wines in terms of their ability to age, youth is the essence of Beaujolais Nouveau’s charms. The first wines of the harvest to be bottled and released, Beaujolais Nouveau is meant to be consumed while young. Fresh, fruity, and full of life, Duboeuf’s 2019 selections are full of personality. Approachable but not bland, these food-friendly wines are meant to be shared. Bursting with flavor but not aggressively complex, they enhance the meal and mood without taxing your palate.

image courtesy of Georges Duboeuf

Franck said that weather conditions made the 2019 harvest a challenge. But although the yields were smaller, the quality of the Gamay grapes used to craft the 2019 Beaujolais wines was excellent. As Franck, said 2019 has “bursts of flavors and aromas” and is “Beaujolais Nouveau in the highest sense of the word. It is a vintage of pleasure, a very Beaujolais vintage.”

Stumped on what wines to serve this holiday season? Beaujolais Nouveau is a smart and delicious choice that won’t break the bank. Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau pairs beautifully with a wide variety of foods and add easy elegance to the meal.  

Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau Rosé 2019 ($12.99)
Winemaking is clearly in the Duboeuf family’s DNA – Anne and Franck’s 22-year-old son made this charming rosé! 100% Gamay, it is a beguiling shade of pale pink rose petals. Fresh, fruity, and juicy, it is delicate but not bland with pretty flavors of peach and grapefruit. Serve chilled and chill out!

 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau 2019 ($12.99)
Although very young, there’s an impressive heft to this wine. Luscious and juicy, you can really taste the full range of the Gamay grape’s flavors. Vibrant flavors of berries and cherries make this an easy-to-love sip. Remember to serve slightly chilled.


Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau 2019 ($12.99)
Fuller-bodied and more complex than Beaujolais Nouveau, these Gamay grapes were sourced from 38 villages with more granite and schist in the terroir. While still fresh and juicy, the wine gets added oomph from tangible minerality. Serve slightly chilled.

image courtesy of Georges Duboeuf

If you're planning a trip to France, Georges Duboeuf welcomes guests at Le Hameau du Vin, the biggest wine theme park in Europe. Until then, pick up a few bottles of Beaujolais Nouveau and take your palate on an elegant journey.

Merci, Anne & Franck Duboeuf for sharing your wines and joyous spirit! 

A Memory in Every Bubble: The Timeless Beauty of Champagne Taittinger

Champagne Taittinger winemaker Alexandre Ponnavoy and artistic director Vitalie Taittinger. 

If I ever felt any uncertainty that Champagne plays a starring role in in many of life’s special moments, those doubts were elegantly dissolved in a glass of Taittinger. At a recent media lunch, I watched fairly reserved wine writers get absolutely giddy as they shared Taittinger tinged memories. One couple, married for decades, passed around a precious photo from their wedding day, where a case of Taittinger was in prominent view like a VIP guest. Another writer, recently engaged, beamed as she told us that she and her fiancé had toasted their special moment with Taittinger. Old love or new love, it seems that where there’s love, there’s Taittinger.

After all, it takes a lot of love to make Champagne – the process is labor intensive and requires extreme patience. This love has inspired the Taittinger family for generations. One of the few remaining family-owned and operated Champagne houses, Taittinger doesn’t simply make bubbly; they are committed to preserving a tradition and cultural treasure.

As the bubbly and memories flowed at our media luncheon, Vitalie Taittinger (artistic director) and Alexandre Ponnavoy (winemaker) generously shared the Taittinger story. Vitalie describes her father, Pierre-Emmanuel-Taittinger, the grandson of the founder, as the “memory of the House.” Memory is an integral part of the Champagne process because each year the winemaker is challenged with creating a wine that evokes the core attributes of the house style.

We tend to use Champagne as a generic term but each house has a different style and Taittinger is unique in several ways. Unlike most large Champagne houses, Taittinger relies primarily on estate grown grapes to produce their wines, instead of depending heavily on outside growers. Taittinger also uses a higher percentage of Chardonnay grapes in their blends. Winemaker Alexandre Ponnavoy said that Chardonnay brings “energy and elegance” to the blend but that it is also important to “respect the scale” between Chardonnay and the other grapes – Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. 

I’ve been a Taittinger fan for years so it was fascinating to taste these exceptional Champagnes with Alexandre and Vitalie. Now, I have a new experience to add to the trove of beautiful memories inspired by their bubbly. To make your own special moments even more memorable, pop the cork on one of these fantastic bottles of Champagne Taittinger.

Champagne Taittinger Brut la Française NV ($64.99)
Nonvintage is always the best way to understand the style of a Champagne house. As winemaker Alexandre Ponnavoy said, this is Taittinger’s “ambassador cuvée and how you introduce the spirit of Taittinger.” What a lovely introduction. A blend of Chardonnay (40%), Pinot Noir (35%) and Pinot Meunier (25%), it contains a higher proportion of Chardonnay than other nonvintage Champagnes, which imbues it with impressive elegance and freshness. It was also aged 3-4 years on the lees, which is more than twice as long as required. This extended aging adds beautiful brioche and toasty notes that meld beautifully with the vibrant and crisp fruit flavors.


Champagne Taittinger Prestige Rosé NV ($84.99)
This quite luxurious rosé Champagne is a blend of Pinot Noir (50%), Chardonnay (30%), and Pinot Meunier (20%). Aged three years on the lees, it is full and crisp with lively flavors of red fruits, blood orange, and a hint of zest.


Champagne Taittinger Brut Millésimé 2013 ($102)
A blend of equal proportions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Taittinger only produces Brut Millésimé in exceptional vintage years.  Speaking of the 2013, Alexandre said, “There is wonderful energy in this vintage” and “lots of yellow fruit” in its aroma and taste; such as citrus, yellow grapefruit and pear. Aged for five years on the lees, it is rich yet graceful with fine bubbles and a seductively long finish.

Champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2007 ($215.99)
100% Chardonnay, this precise bubbly is powerful yet graceful. Only produced in exceptional vintage years, the Chardonnay grapes were sourced from the top vineyards of Côte des Blancs. Aged for ten years on the lees, this is a next-level Champagne that balances brightness and vivacity with tantalizing hints of exotic smoke, anise, and a kiss of salinity. A beautiful symphony of flavor!

Bring on the Bubbly: Lucien Albrecht Cremant d'Alsace

Jérôme Keller, winemaker for Lucien Albrecht winery

Few things can rival the power of sparkling wine to break the ice between strangers. Once the cork pops and the wine flows, the walls between us begin to drop. I was reminded of bubbly's ability to connect people in a recent meeting with winemaker Jérôme Keller of Lucien Albrecht winery. We had never met before but Jérôme's wonderful wines and easygoing personality added a decidedly festive flair to our business meeting. Before long, we were laughing like old friends. 

The roots of Lucien Albrecht winery can be traced back to 1698. Located in Alsace, in northeastern France, Lucien Albrecht is regarded as a pioneer in the production of Cremant d'Alsace. Made in the same method as Champagne, Cremant d'Alsace is more than an affordable alternative to Champagne; it stands on its own as a high-quality sparkling wine. Alsace is home to a multitude of soil types and has been described as one of the most diverse terroirs in the world. This diversity, paired with the region's dry climate and plentiful sunshine, imbue Alsace grapes with impressive freshness and complexity; exactly the foundation needed to create a great sparkling wine. 

Lucien Abrecht Cremant d'Alsace ($23) tastes like a much more expensive bubbly. A blend of Pinot Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay, it is vibrant and crisp with fine bubbles and a wonderful interplay between fruit and mineral flavors. 

 

Alsace is more known for their white wines but the notoriously persnickety Pinot Noir also grows beautifully there. 100% Pinot Noir, Lucien Albrecht Brut Rosé ($23) has luscious red fruit flavors and impressive crispness that adds texture to its juicy roundness. 

Call me decadent, but in my ideal world every day would include a glass of sparkling wine. Not only do I love the sensation of tiny bubbles dancing across my palate, sparkling wines remind me that you don't need a special occasion to celebrate, life itself is reason enough. And the relative affordability of Lucien Albrecht Cremant d'Alsace makes it possible to enjoy quality sparkling wine without breaking the bank.  

Their portfolio also includes excellent examples of Alsace's most iconic white wines -- Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris. Give them a swirl too! And if you're planning a trip to Alsace, Lucien Albrecht welcomes visitors for tours and tastings. 

Take Your Palate on a Rosé Adventure: 5 Tasty Pink Wines from 4 Different Countries

Can you even imagine summer without rosé? Luckily, we don't have to! Rosé wines are delicious year-round but there's no denying that these flirty pink sips are particularly suited to the sunny and carefree vibe of the summer season. Pretty and refreshing, rosé wines are a fun way to explore new regions and grapes. I plan on taking my taste buds on a delicious rosé journey all summer long and will keep you updated with short reviews of my favorites. This week's selections include sensational pink wines from Australia, Italy, France, and Spain. Cheers! 

Frescobaldi Alìe 2018 ($18.99)
Tuscany, Italy
About four years ago, I had the pleasure of visiting Frescobaldi's stunning Ammiraglia estate in Tuscany's coastal Maremma region. I recently sipped their elegant Alìe rose at an event in NYC and was instantly transported back to that beautiful time and place. A blend of Syrah and Vermentino, Alìe is pale pink but bursting with lively red fruit flavors. Deliciously dry with a touch of minerality, this refreshing sip is worthy of its name that was inspired by a fabled sea nymph. 

Cape Mentelle Rosè 2018 ($18.99)
Margaret River, Australia
There's lots of flavor in this full-bodied and juicy rosé from Down Under. A bold blend of Shiraz, Grenache, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Mourvèdre, and Viognier; it has lip-smacking flavors of ripe strawberries and cream, peach, melon, and citrus. Crisp acidity keeps it vibrant and lively.

Baron de Ley Rioja Rosé 2018 ($11)
Rioja, Spain
Would you like your rosé with a bit of olé? Try this superb sip from Spain! 100% Garnacha, this pale pink beauty packs plenty of flavor and finesse. Luscious and crisp with juicy flavors of fresh red berries; this is an easy-breezy and elegant vino. 

Esprit Gassier Côtes de Provence 2018 ($22)
Provence, France
No rosé journey is complete without a stop in Provence! This picturesque region in the south of France launched a global obsession with pale pink wines. There is no shortage of excellent rosé from Provence and this elegant offering from Château Gassier doesn't disappoint. A classic blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and Vermentino, this refreshing sip has crisp flavors of red berries, white peach, and a zippy kiss of citrus.

Les Dauphins Côtes du Rhône Rosé Reserve ($10.99)
Côtes du Rhône, France
One of the best values in wine, Les Dauphins rosé is well-made and consistently delicious. A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah, this perky pink sip from the southern Rhône Valley has pretty melon and berry flavors that are fruity with a hint of sweetness and lively acidity. This is a very happy wine! 

Make Every Moment Exceptional with Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Champagne

"Science and sensitivity, great wine is always a balance between the two. Technology is not against tradition." - Benoît Gouez, Cellar Master, Moët & Chandon

Someone recently asked me what I enjoy most about wine writing. Aside from the obvious delights of drinking wonderful wines and traveling to vineyards near and far, the greatest joy continues to be the people that wine brings into my life. Some of my richest new friendships have been formed over a shared passion for wine. Wine has a way of breaking down barriers and slowing down time that fosters a connection. Share a bottle of wine with someone and you tend to discover more similarities than differences and an appreciation for the beauty in our differences. For the past three years I've had the pleasure of tasting the new vintages of Moët & Chandon Champagne with their cellar master Benoît Gouez and it has become one of my most anticipated appointments each year. 

The first year that we met, I confess to being a bit awe struck. Truthfully, I wondered if the invitation to meet with Benoît had been sent to me by mistake. Founded in 1743, Moët & Chandon is one of the most iconic champagne houses in the world. During my first meeting with Benoît, his down-to-earth demeanor and welcoming personality instantly put me at ease. Once that ice was broken, Benoît beautifully dispelled any notion that Moët & Chandon's size and status somehow rendered them not concerned with artistry, quality, tradition, and innovation. Benoît is passionate and precise about winemaking and committed to making sure that each bottle of bubbly lives up to Moët & Chandon's rigorous standards and rich legacy.  

During our most recent meeting in New York City, Benoît generously shared his time and Moët & Chandon's 2012 Grand Vintage releases. Only released in exceptional vintages, the Grand Vintage wines showcase not only the unique qualities of that year but Benoit's interpretation of the vintage. "The wines made from black grapes, especially the fragile Meunier, were particularly good in 2012, which explains why they make up an important part of the assemblage. This Grand Vintage is a softly fresh and harmonious wine that reveals itself slowly but with supple assurance, like the gentle transition of spring into summer, and envelops the palate, blossoming into a crisp yet balanced bouquet."

Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2012 Extra Brut Champagne ($75) is the House's 74th declared vintage. A blend of Chardonnay (41%), Pinot Noir (33%) and Meunier (26%), this majestic bubbly is rich and complex but also has a gentle coyness that is quite seductive. Supple with fine bubbles, crisp apple and pear flavors are lifted by hints of ginger and lychee, with a hint of butterscotch and citrus. The decadently long finish leaves a lasting impression on the palate. Exuberant and impeccable, this is a transcendent champagne. 

Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé Extra Brut 2012 ($85) is the House's 43rd rosé vintage and evokes the transition from spring to summer. A blend of Pinot Noir (42% of its assemblage of which 13% is red wine), Chardonnay (35%), and Meunier (23%); this is an exceptionally elegant and expressive rosé champagne. There's an unabashed fleshiness in this bubbly's red fruit flavors but hints of citrus and stone fruit add verve. Sexy and sophisticated! 


The Moët & Chandon 2012 Grand Vintage champagnes are superb examples of Benoît's artistic nature. I recently shared both of these wines with my very picky friends and everyone was impressed by their beauty. Wow was uttered more than once. If you're looking for wines that will make even a casual meal with friends feel like a gala occasion, pop open a bottle of Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Champagne! 

 

Secrets and Wines: Guigal Acquires the Historic Château de Nalys in Châteauneuf-du-Pape

"We're not taking over a fancy name, or a fancy brand, or a fancy vineyard; we're taking over a terroir."
- Philippe Guigal, third generation winemaker, E. Guigal

Always charming and gracious, I recently discovered that winemaker Philippe Guigal is also very skilled at keeping a big secret! In spring 2018, we had a laughter-filled tasting of his family's famous & fabulous E. Guigal wines from the Rhône Valley in the south of France. A few months later, I was invited to meet with Philippe again because he had some major news to share -- in July 2017, almost a year before our April meeting, his family had acquired the historic Château de Nalys estate & winery in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Was I the last person on the planet to hear this news? (Really, Philippe? Not even a hint did you give me. Well played, Monsieur!)

However, all was forgiven when Philippe, and his lovely wife Eve, hosted a special tasting of the Château de Nalys wines in November 2018. Since their founding in 1946 by Philippe's grandfather, Etienne Guigal, E. Guigal has always produced a Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine but they did not have their own estate in this prestigious winemaking region in the southern Rhône. 



The Guigal family had been searching for a property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape for more than 20 years. Acknowledged in land registers as far back as the 16th century, Nalys is one of the oldest estates in the region. But it isn't just age that makes Nalys special. A true rarity, Nalys actually contains all 13 of the grape varieties that are permitted in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape blend. This extraordinary vineyard consists of 3 adjoining parcels spanning more than 125 contiguous acres. Impressive! 

During our meeting, Philippe and Eve spoke of the deep love and respect that they already have for this great land. They don't view the acquisition of Nalys as just an expansion of the Guigal legacy but as a commitment to serving as stewards and protectors of this precious terroir. With this in mind, Guigal will be making some improvements to the winemaking and vineyard practices at Nalys but in a respectful way that honors its legacy. 

2017 marks the first Château de Nalys vintages produced by the Guigal family. The wines display an elegance, energy, and expression of place that are a signature of the Guigal style. I can only imagine how impressive future vintages will be as the Guigals become even more intertwined with the property. 

Saintes Pierres de Nalys Blanc Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017 ($58)
Saintes Pierres means holy stones, a cheeky play on the soils and history of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The region's soils are famous for a top layer of pebble shaped galet stones and the name of the region means "the Pope's New Home" -- a reference to the 14th century move of the Pope from Rome to Avignon. A blend of Clairette, Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, and Picardan; this white wine is a beautiful medley of mineral, citrus, peach, and herb flavors. Fresh and full. 

Saintes Pierres de Nalys Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2016 ($58)
A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Muscardin, Counoise, and Mourvedre; this lovely wine strikes an impressive balance between richness and freshness. Juicy red fruit flavors wrap around a thread of earth and soft tannins. 

Château de Nalys Grand Vin Blanc Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017 ($105)
A grand blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, and Picquepoul, this white is bold but full of grace. Full-bodied and plush with a touch of spice and cream. Vibrant citrus with a kiss of tropical fruit. Pretty and powerful. 

Château de Nalys Grand Vin Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2016 ($105)
There's nothing timid about this precise blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise, and Vacarese. Bold and complex flavors of dark fruit, rich earth, spice, and minerals open up beautifully in the glass. 


One of the things that I love about Guigal wines is that they are consistently elegant but never aloof. Beautifully made, they always tell a story and express their unique terroir. The essence of the grape and the place is never obscured. I look forward to following the Nalys chapter of the Guigal's wine journey for many years to come. And next time, I'll be sure to ask Philippe about any secret projects!

Eat, Drink and Let Laughter Flow: Life Lessons from Winemaker Michel Chapoutier

 

I had been warned that this would be no ordinary winemaker lunch but nothing could have prepared me for the force of nature that is Michel Chapoutier. Gregarious and unfiltered, this icon from the Rhône Valley shatters any image that you may have of a prim and reserved French winemaker. Michel lives life with gusto and if you choose not to go along for the ride, that's your loss! 

"A winemaker has to be obsessed by food," said Michel as we tucked into a superb lunch at Troquet, a charming and cozy French restaurant in NYC's Soho neighborhood. To reinforce his point, Michel playfully grabbed a love handle and chuckled "imagine how much it cost me to do that!" and proclaimed it the expensive side-effect of using the influential French restaurant review directory, the Michelin Guide. Not just an enthusiastic gourmand, Michel is also a talented home chef and I've heard rave reviews from those fortunate enough to enjoy a meal prepared by Michel.


Food and wine together, as they were meant to be. Wine by M. Chapoutier, food by Troquet.

As a winemaker, Michel's passion for cuisine is rooted in his belief that a true winemaker "understands that food and wine have to be married. Too many winemakers are making wines that are powerful but don't pair well with food." For Michel, the relationship between wine and food should be one of equals, "it should not be a dominant/subordinate relationship."

Like Jagger or Springsteen for music lovers, the name Chapoutier is revered among wine aficionados. The Chapoutier family settled in the Rhône Valley in 1808 and their wines represent some of the most prestigious appellations in the world; including Hermitage, Côte Rôtie, and Châteuneuf-du-Pape. Michel took over the family legacy in 1990, at the young age of 26. Since his tenure as leader, M. Chapoutier winery has earned more 90+ ratings in Wine Spectator than any other winemaker in the world. 


image courtesy of M. Chapoutier

"Come to Tain l’Hermitage and you will see our connection to the vineyards: our winery and our homes are surrounded by the vineyards where we grow our grapes. When I walk outside my door, I find myself in the middle of our vines,” said Michel. Proud of tradition but not afraid to innovate, Chapoutier was one of the first winemakers and grape growers to convert a historic estate to biodynamic and chemical-free farming. And in an industry still dominated by men, more than half of the executives at his company are women. Even his daughter Mathilde has turned her attention to winemaking and makes a mighty fine rosé! 

I've written about Chapoutier's wines many times over the years and their quality and vitality never cease to impress me. Filled with life and vigor, these wines are a true reflection of Michel's personality and his commitment to crafting wines that authentically express the essence of their terroir. Chapoutier has an extensive portfolio of wines at all price points but our lunch featured 4 very special bottles. 


M. Chapoutier La Combe Pilate IGP Collines Rhodaniennes 2016 ($38.99)
100% Viognier from a hillside vineyard near Michel's home, La Combe fully explores the winemaker's commitment to biodynamic winemaking and is part of his experimental range called The Alchemy Wines. The symbol on the bottle is the alchemic symbol for spirit and references Chapoutier's commitment to crafting wines that authentically showcase the spirit of the land. Fresh and savory with great minerality and texture, Michel recommends pairing La Combe with spicy food.


M. Chapoutier Hermitage Chante-Alouette 2016 ($110)
100% Marsanne and a fine example of Michel's belief that the best wines are made from one grape variety. This coveted appellation of Hermitage is named after the tiny chapel at its highest point that was once home to hermits. Marsanne is capable of making some of the world's top and most long-lived whites. This majestic wine is complex and full bodied with vibrant flavors of quince and honey with a tinge of almond and ginger. A great match with seafood or a rustic roast chicken.



M. Chapoutier Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne 2012 ($135)
Such a sensational Syrah! Unfiltered and unfined, Monier de la Sizeranne is a pristine and pure expression of terroir; rich and round with deep flavors of black fruits and a touch of licorice. Starting with Sizeranne in 1996, Chapoutier was the first winery to put Braille on a wine label. Now all Chapoutier wines have Braille labels. Sizeranne is a tribute to another icon of the Rhône, Maurice de la Sizeranne. Born in 1857, Maurice lost his sight when he was nine years old and later in life he perfected the system of abbreviated Braille widely used today in France. Chapoutier sources the grapes for Monier de la Sizeranne from land that was formerly owned by the Sizeranne family and later purchased by Chapoutier's great-grandfather. A perfect match with steak, roast, or lamb.



M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon 2014 ($320)
Only 600 cases are produced each year of this seriously sexy and elegant Syrah. Supple and velvety with focused power, it is a compelling balance of strength and grace. Bold fruit flavors meld seamlessly with subtle hints of piquant licorice and earthy tobacco. A flawless match with roasted and juicy red meat paired with root vegetables and excellent company.

Michel Chapoutier's joie de vivre is contagious! Yes, he's a wine icon who approaches winemaking with absolute seriousness and authenticity, but Michel doesn't let his tremendous success and elite position hinder his capacity for unabashed laughter, even at himself. Great wine and delicious food, paired with a hearty dose of laughter, and fulfilling work fueled by passion; I plan to follow Michel's recipe for living life to the fullest!

Chic & Charming Chardonnay: Cave de Lugny White Burgundy

"I'm a winemaker but also a consumer. Burgundy is the best place for Chardonnay."- Grégoire Pissot, Winemaker, Cave de Lugny

Cave de Lugny winemaker Grégoire Pissot is on a mission to remind us of White Burgundy's many charms. Armed with his affable personality and expressive wines, Grégoire is winning over drinkers one bottle at a time. While Chardonnay may not be the hot new grape in town, Cave de Lugny's wines are a delicious reminder that classic doesn't mean boring or expensive. Well-crafted and affordably priced, Cave de Lugny delivers French ooh la la without breaking the bank.


image courtesy of Cave de Lugny

Founded in 1926, Cave de Lugny is a cooperative of family-owned wine-growing estates in the Mâconnais region in southern Burgundy. The #1 white Burgundy producer in the world, 90% of Cave de Lugny's production is Chardonnay; which they craft in the traditional Burgundy style -- unoaked and on the lees so that the wines are vibrant and complex. They also adhere to strict growing standards and eco-friendly practices. I recently had the pleasure of tasting two Cave de Lugny wines with Grégoire and agree with his assessment that their Chardonnay from the Mâconnais is "easy and very drinkable." But the wines still have tremendous personality and energy.


Cave de Lugny "La Côte Blanche" Chardonnay, Mâcon-Villages 2016 ($13)
Refreshing and luscious with crisp minerality, La Côte Blanche is a delightful introduction to the Cave de Lugny style. Lively flavors of lemon curd and citrus fruits are balanced out by a long dry finish. 


Cave de Lugny "Les Charmes" Chardonnay, Mâcon-Lugny 2016 ($16)
Grégoire describes Les Charmes as "the wine that best expresses Mâcon." Chardonnay grapes for this impressive wine are sourced from a single vineyard, with some vines as old as 35-40 years. Richly textured and with elegantly restrained citrus flavors that are balanced out by hints of spice and honey, Les Charmes offers plenty of finesse and nuance at a great price. 

If you're planning a trip to Burgundy, Cave de Lugny offers wine tourism opportunities. Until then, get to know Cave de Lugny Chardonnay with a bottle of La Côte Blanche or Les Charmes. Cheers! 

Sip Like a Sommelier: Yannick Benjamin is Captivated by Côtes de Bordeaux

Sommelier extraordinaire and Côtes de Bordeaux enthusiast Yannick Benjamin

Ah, Bordeaux. So famous yet still so misunderstood. Bordeaux may be best known for legendary wines with jaw-dropping prices but that isn't a complete picture of this iconic region in southwest France. A mosaic composed of almost 111,000 hectares, Bordeaux is France's largest AOC vineyard and home to 65 different appellations that produce wines in a variety of styles and prices. And one of the most buzzed about and intriguing appellations is Côtes de Bordeaux. Officially born in 2009, the Côtes de Bordeaux AOC may be the new kid on the Bordeaux block but vines have been planted there since the 2nd century. Côtes de Bordeaux consists of 5 clearly identified regions: Blaye, Cadillac, Castillon, Francs, and Sainte-Foy. 

Summertime really ignites my interest in trying new wines and I recently had the pleasure of tasting several Côtes de Bordeaux wines with sommelier Yannick Benjamin. Passionate and very knowledgable about the region, Yannick describes Côtes de Bordeaux wines as "Extremely terroir driven. They have a true sense of place." He also praises the "hands on approach" of the winemakers. For Yannick, Côtes de Bordeaux's authentically crafted wines at accessible price points make them ideal "gateway wines" for exploring Bordeaux. 

From fresh & crisp whites to fruity & earthy reds, you can sip Côtes de Bordeaux from the start to the end of a meal. True to their Bordeaux heritage, blending is a signature of the Côtes wines. Reds are mainly crafted from Merlot with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec. Sauvignon is the major grape variety for the white wines, blended with Sémillon and Muscadelle. Representing each of the Côtes de Bordeaux regions, I tasted five wines with Yannick. Authentic, affordable, and crafted with finesse, Côtes wines make your Bordeaux dreams a budget-friendly reality!



Château Peybonhomme-Les-Tours, Le Blanc Bonhomme 2016
AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux ($20)
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc (50%) and Semillon (50%), this refreshing and elegant white wine is from Blaye's largest certified biodynamic estate and is produced by fifth-generation brother & sister winemakers Guillaume and Rachel Hubert. Fresh and full with gorgeous flavors of honey, tropical fruit, zippy acidity, and clean minerality, this is a lovely introduction to Côtes! 

Château Suau 2015
AOC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2015 ($25)
With vineyards located on the highest point of Cadillac, at an altitude of 330 feet, Château Suau began converting to organic farming in 2008. Since 2014, all vintages have been produced under the direction of famed winemaker & consultant Michel Rolland. Few red grapes can match Merlot's plush juiciness and this luscious red bolsters that softness with structure from a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon, so that the wine has finesse and not flab. Rich black fruit flavors are revved up with hints of licorice and finely knit tannins. 



Château Pitray Cabernet Franc 2015
AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux ($18)
In a land of blends, this 100% Cabernet Franc stands out. Sexy and supple, there's nothing shy about this ripe and luscious red. Juicy, fruit-driven, with an engaging earthiness, this Cab Franc is the epitome of easygoing elegance. Established in the 14th century, Château Pitray is a 247-acre estate owned by the Simrad de Pitray family -- one of Bordeaux's oldest vineyard owning families. 



Château Les Charmes-Godard 2015
AOC Francs Côtes de Bordeaux ($18)
A blend of Semillon (50%), Sauvignon Gris (25%), and Sauvignon Blanc (25%); this is no boring white wine. Full-bodied and crisp with layers of flavor; from lemon and honeysuckle, to white peach and verbena. The 16-acre Les Charmes-Godard property was purchased by Nicolas Thienpont and his brothers in 1988.

Château Couronneau 2015
AOC Sainte-Foy Côtes de Bordeaux ($19)
Purchased by Christophe and Bénédicte Piat in 1994, they converted the vineyards  of the 98-acre Château Couronneau estate to organic farming in 1999 and to biodynamic in 2012. A blend of Merlot (60%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), this red displays a gorgeous balance between ripe & dark fruit and savory vanilla and earthy flavors. Firm but fleshy. 

These five wines are just a small example of the diversity, quality, and affordability of Côtes de Bordeaux wines. Visit their website to learn more. Cheers! 
 

The Terroir Does the Talking in E. Guigal's Stellar Rhône Valley Wines

It is always a bit nerve-wracking to meet a winemaker whose wines you adore. Like a favorite musician, writer, or painter; when you connect with a wine, you fancy that you know a bit about the person who produced the art. Will the winemaker's personality match their wine? Will you like them as much as their creation? In the case of Phillipe Guigal, third-generation winemaker for the celebrated E. Guigal winery, the answer is absolutely yes!


"We make wines according to terroir." - Philippe Guigal

After enjoying his wines for several years, I met Philippe for the first time last year and was impressed not only by his beautiful wines, but also his elegant and welcoming demeanor. Phillipe's perfect posture and poise are the result of years of dance training; he won major competitions in his youth and continues to dance and compete in ballroom dancing with his wife Eve. Confident but not boastful, Philippe is rightfully proud of his family's extraordinary contributions to winemaking in France. His grandfather, Etienne, founded E. Guigal in 1946 and for three generations the Guigal family has been working with land that is more than 24 centuries old in the Rhône Valley in southern France. Guigal owns 150 acres of vineyards in the Northern Rhône and some of their vines dates back to the 1890's. No pesticides, herbicides, or chemicals are used in their vineyards. 


image courtesy of E. Guigal

Philippe is adamant that his wines are authentic expressions of these treasured vineyards. Guigal's wines are not over-manipulated to appeal to trends but are meant to be accurate reflections of the grapes, terroir, and vintage. As an intuitive and well-trained winemaker, Philippe knows how to coax the grapes to their best expression without overwhelming their true essence with aggressive techniques. Guigal creates their affordably-priced wines with the same attention to care and detail that they use for their high-end wines that you'll find in Michelin-starred restaurants and collectors' cellars around the world. 

Well, a year certainly goes by quickly and I recently had the pleasure of meeting with Philippe again to taste Guigal's latest vintages. 



E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2016 ($15)
Guigal has a love affair with Viognier and that affection is evident in this fresh and rich white wine blend. Luscious but zippy and zesty with charming flavors of honeysuckle, pear, kiwi, and crispy, crunchy minerality; Viognier forms 60% of the blend and melds elegantly with Roussanne, Marsanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc, and Grenache Blanc. 



E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2017 ($15)
There's rosé and there's really good rosé! Guigal's rosé is consistently balanced, flavorful, and fresh. A blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault that gracefully leaps across the palate with flavors of fresh red fruits and lively acidity. 



E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône Rouge 2014 ($15)
 Fruity and plump with great structure, this is a luscious red that you can enjoy all year long. A blend of mostly Syrah and Grenache with a dash of Mourvedre, this is an exceptionally good wine at any price point and an outright steal at $15! 

E. Guigal Crozes-Hermitage 2015 ($28)
 Many consider Crozes-Hermitage the gateway to the wines of the Northern Rhône Valley and this beauty from E. Guigal is an excellent starting point. With more fruit, more color, and more tannins, Philippe describes this bold red as having "characteristics of an outstanding vintage." Spicy and savory with pristine rich fruit, fine earthy tannins, and pulsing minerality, this wine eloquently expresses the essence of the terroir and Guigal's attentive winemaking. 



E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde 2014 ($75)
One of my favorite red wines from anywhere, this sultry blend of rich & peppery Syrah with a kiss of juicy Viognier is a standout. As the alluring wine develops in the glass, each sip reveals deeper levels of flavor and complexity. Worth the splurge! 



I thoroughly enjoyed my 2nd annual tasting with Philippe Guigal and hope we continue this tradition of sharing great wine and plenty of laughs for many years to come! 

To learn more about E. Guigal and their wines, visit their website.