One could spend a lifetime studying Italian wines and only tap the surface of its viticultural treasures. But don’t be intimidated by that abundance. Instead, consider Italian wines an open invitation to an endlessly enjoyable, exciting, and educational tasting experience. Many of Italy’s 20 wine regions have become household names abroad, but don’t overlook the charm and quality of wines being produced in under-exposed areas. From north to south, beautiful Italian wines await you. Collio, with its elegant and expressive white wines, is a region that needs to be on your radar.
Confession: When I was invited to visit Collio a few months ago, I wasn’t entirely sure where it was located. Thank goodness for Google and Italian friends. Located in the northeast of Italy, in the region of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Collio borders Slovenia and once formed part of the Austro-Hungarian empire. Collio is derived from the Italian word for hillsides and the area’s hilly vineyards benefit from the climatic conditions created by its location between the Julian Alps and the Adriatic Sea.
Collio is renowned for white wines, crafted from indigenous and international grapes, with pronounced minerality. In Italy and beyond, they are considered some of the very best. Collio’s wines are the complete antithesis of wimpy and watery white wines. A great deal of the robustness and mineral character of Collio’s white wines can be attributed to their soils. Known as ‘ponca’, this soil is composed of marl clay from the Eocene era and is rich with mineral soils that imbue the wines with incredible texture and nuance.
The indigenous grapes from Collio may unfamiliar but the taste of the wines have universal appeal. These include Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia, and Picolit. These indigenous grapes make outstanding single-varietal wines, and many of them have the potential to age beautifully. White blends, known as Collio Bianco, are also superb expressions of the region’s winemaking prowess.
I’ll defer to the Consorzio Tutela Vini Collio on their official descriptions of the indigenous varieties.
Ribolla Gialla
“This is the most ancient of the indigenous grape varieties, of which signs of centuries-old vines are still found in the micro-zone of Oslavia. The first documents which testify to its presence date back to 1300. It is of a lively straw-yellow color with characteristic hints of green and has a delicate fresh scent of vegetable and almonds. Its flavor is full-bodied and harmonious.”
Friulano
“One of the most famous and renowned wines of the area, which until 2007 was called Tocai Friulano. It is of a straw-yellow color with characteristic hints of green and has a delicate fresh scent of vegetables and almonds. Its flavor is full-bodied and harmonious.”
Malvasia
“The grape has been present for many years in the Collio region, where it has found its ideal habitat. It is characterized by a light straw-yellow color with hints of green and a clear scent that reminds one of exotic fruit and white pepper. To the palate, it is dry yet fresh, lively and full-bodied.”
Picolit
“This is a noble and very rare wine, of a straw-yellow color and more or less intense golden hints, with a pleasant and enthusiastic scent that recalls flowers of the field and acacia honey. The flavor is sweet, ample, and smooth.”
And while it can be heard to generate excitement about ubiquitous varieties like Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon, in Collio these wines express an astounding depth of character. Red wines are also produced in Collio; including Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and the Collio Rosso red blend.
If a trip to Italy is in your future, consider serene and beautiful Collio. Until then, take your palate on a journey and explore white wines from the region. They really are something special. Truly, if you see Collio on the label, give the wine a chance. Across the board, the quality of the wines is generally very impressive.
To assist you in selecting a wine from Collio, I’ve opted to highlight three producers: Gradis' Ciutta, Livon, and Ronco Blanchis. I tasted several wines from each of these producers and their consistence and quality were at a high level. Trust me, if you see their names on the bottle, you are tasting an authentic expression of Collio.
Gradis’ Ciutta
I received a warm welcome in Collio at Gradis’ Ciutta from winemaker/owner Robert Princic and his friendly four-legged friend.
Winemaker and owner of Gradis' Ciutta, Robert Princic’s family has been involved in agriculture in Collio for many generations. Robert can't remember a time when wine wasn't a part of his life -- he says that he was basically born among their vineyards. His wine education truly began working alongside his father Isidoro but Robert also pursued formal education. After graduating from enology school, Robert took over the winery in 1997. Inspired by his family’s ties to the region, Robert selected the name Gradis’ Ciutta, the name of a hilltop hamlet where his grandfather had vineyards. The name is quite fitting because the area was previously known as Monsvini, which is Latin for "the mountain of wine".
Robert’s wines are an excellent example of why Collio is renowned for making some of Italy’s finest white wines. Crisp, pure, and precise, these wines have tremendous complexity, texture, and finesse. Pinot Grigio may be ubiquitous but throughout Collio, and in the wines of Gradis’ Ciutta, you are reminded of Pinot Grigio’s capacity to transmit terroir and personality. Robert also produces superb Friulano, Malvasia, Ribolla Gialla, and more. (And, I must add that Robert's mother, Ivanka, makes the best apple strudel I've ever tasted!)
Robert, who is also president of the Collio Wine Consorzio, expressed his wish that Collio would become synonymous with high quality white wines and that people will say, “Let’s drink Collio!” Based on the high quality of wines produced by Robert and his peers, I think wine lovers will be clamoring for Collio more than ever.
Ronco Blanchis
Lorenzo Palla of Ronco Blanchis
Ronco Blanchis pours all of their passion and expertise into producing exclusively white wines from Collio. Purchased 20 years ago by Lorenzo Palla and his father Giancarlo, even the winery’s name is inspired by the land – Ronco means side of the hill and Blanchis means white, as in the color of the wines. Committed to sustainability, Ronco Blanchis uses only solar energy to produce their Friulano, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon, and Collio Bianco blend.
During my visit to Ronco Blanchis, I was particularly captivated by their Friulano. We tasted vintages spanning about a dozen years that beautifully showcased how elegantly Friulano ages. The glass was practically dancing with the medley of flavors – citrus, sage, minerality, salinity, pineapple, almond, and more.
Livon
Cousins Matteo and Francesca Livon represent the third-generation of the revered Collio winery, Livon.
Sipping wine on the terrace of Livon’s breathtaking Braide Alte estate, facing the Alps and with Slovenia visible to the right, Collio’s unique geography and history came to life. One of the most established and celebrated producers in the region, Livon’s history spans more than fifty years. And the winery is very much a family affair. Dorino Livon first acquired vineyards in 1964 and today three generations of the family are intimately involved in the winery. (They also make amazing balsamic vinegar!)
My Livon tasting experience included their Manditocai Friulano Collio, a single-vineyard and limited-production wine. We tasted several vintages of Manditocai, including 2006, which was the very first. Manditocai is another excellent example of Friulano’s impressive aging power. The 2006, at thirteen-years-old, revealed beautiful flavors of baked apples, honey, orange blossom, and almonds. 2015 Manditocai, young and juicy, had vibrant flavors of yellow peach and almond.
My time in Collio was nothing less than magical. Yes, the wines and landscapes are breathtaking but there’s also a serenity that this frazzled New Yorker found extremely seductive and comforting. Every person that I met, not just the winemakers, spoke lovingly of their land and Collio’s hold on their hearts.
Matteo Bellotto was my gracious and knowledgable guide through Collio and has written a book about the wines of Friuli Venezia Giulia. He is a poignant example of the character of Collio’s people. Matteo doesn’t just view wine as a product, but as an expression of Collio’s history, spirituality, culture, and respect for Mother Nature. I say amen and let’s raise a glass of Collio wine!
