Wine With Wanda

Dramatic & Delicious: TerraNoble Carmenere is a Charming Taste of Chile

Carmenere grapes
image courtesy Wines of Chile 

Carmenere’s dramatic back story always reminds me of a telenovela heroine that lived in the shadows until her true noble identity was revealed. Long mistaken for Merlot, Carmenere arrived in Chile in the 1800’s with other Bordeaux varieties. In 1867, that dastardly louse known as Phylloxera wiped out most of Bordeaux’s vineyards, including Carmenere. Meanwhile, Carmenere was secretly thriving in Chile. After years of obscurity, Carmenere was finally correctly identified in 1994, and the course of Chilean winemaking was forever changed. Now known throughout the world as Chile's signature wine, the quality of Carmenere has improved greatly over the years and Chilean winemakers have committed themselves to discovering its full range of expression. 

If you’re not familiar with Carmenere, TerraNoble Carmenere Gran Reserva 2017 ($19) is a charming introduction. 100% Carmenere from the Maule Valley, on the nose it has a subtle hint of the green bell pepper aromas often associated with Carmenere. On the palate it is juicy and full-bodied with silky sweet tannins and flavors of ripe black fruit, clove, spice, and bittersweet chocolate. A tasty wine at a very nice price.


If you really want to geek out on Carmenere and better understand its nuances and capacity to express terroir, try a side-by-side tasting of the 2017 vintages of TerraNoble CA1 Carmenere Andes and CA2 Carmenere Costa. Both wines are $24.99. As the name indicates, the Carmenere grapes for Costa 2017 were sourced from vineyards on the coastal mountain range of the Colchagua Valley, where constant breezes from the Pacific Ocean cool the grapes. The resulting wine is soft, fruit-forward, and fresh with a hint of salinity. Meanwhile, the grapes for Carmenere Andes 2017 are sourced from vineyards in the warm Andes foothills of the Colchagua valley. This a fuller and more intense wine with rich red fruit flavors and herbaceous, mineral, and vegetal notes.

Visit the TerraNoble website to learn more about their wines. 

Dramatic and Delicious: Celebrate 25 Years of Chilean Carmenere with Wines from Concha y Toro

I always like to describe Carmenere from Chile as the heroine of a dramatic telenovela (soap opera). After many years of mistaken identity, our leading lady’s true persona was discovered and she assumed her rightful post as belle of the ball. It’s hard to believe, but Carmenere, the red wine grape most closely associated with Chile, was not accurately identified until 25 years ago, on November 24, 1994.

image courtesy of Concha y Toro

Carmenere actually arrived in Chile in the 1800’s with other Bordeaux varieties. In 1867, that dastardly louse known as Phylloxera wiped out most of Bordeaux’s vineyards, including Carmenere. When vineyards were replanted in Bordeaux, Carmenere was not included due to its late ripening and susceptibility to disease. However, Carmenere was quietly thriving in Chile where it was mistakenly identified as a type of Merlot. This mistake lingered until 1994 when Jean Michel Boursiquot, a French ampelographer (grape identification expert), made the startling discovery that Chilean Merlot was actually Carmenere. Voila! Chilean winemaking would never be the same.

Carmenere Grapes
image courtesy Wines of Chile

If you’re a fan of Chilean wines, Concha y Toro is a familiar name. Their extensive portfolio includes entry-level everyday wines, high-end collectible wines, and wonderful mid-priced options. As one of Chile’s most important wineries, they have been instrumental in elevating the profile and quality of Carmenere. To taste the beauty and versatility of Carmenere, I recommend trying one of Concha y Toro’s selections from the Cachapoal Valley, Chile’s top region for Carmenere and home to one of Concha y Toro’s oldest vineyards.


Carmenere’s dramatic flavors correspond perfectly to its back story. The deepest, darkest, and most purple of the red grapes, Carmenere is generally described as having flavors of raspberry and other red fruits with hints of black pepper, paprika, and some green bell pepper vegetal flavors. Good acidity and mild tannins make Carmenere very easy to pair with a wide variety of foods. 

Terrunyo Carmenere Block 27 2017, D.O. Peumo, Cachapoal Valley ($41.99)
100% Carmenere. Aged 9 months in French oak barrels. Full and voluptuous with rich, but not overly ripe flavors of blueberries, wild berries, hints of cedar and violet, and soft tannins.

Marques de Casa Concha Carmenere 2017, D.O. Peumo, Cachapoal Valley ($26.99)
90% Carmenere and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 14 months in French oak barrels. Classic Carmenere flavors get added oomph with vibrant hints of ripe plums and dark chocolate from the Cabernet Sauvignon.

Serie Riberas Gran Riserva Carmenere 2017, D.O. Peumo, Cachapoal Valley ($15.99)
93.2% Carmenere, 6.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 0.6 %Merlot. Aged 10 months in French and American oak barrels. Silky and elegant, bold berry flavors with a subtle kick of spice. These vines are located on the banks of the Cachapoal River, which imbues the wine with a charming freshness.  

Let There Be Wine: Viña VIK Crafts Exceptional Chilean Wines From a Place of Gold

 

“VIK is a book. Every glass is a chapter. Every sip is a page.”
Cristián Vallejo, Chief Winemaker, Viña VIK

Whether he’s discussing vineyard management, barrel selection, or the artistry of wine; a conversation with winemaker Cristián Vallejo of Viña VIK is an exhilarating journey. A true visionary, when Cristián accepted the offer in 2006 to become the chief winemaker for Viña VIK, there were no vines planted. Others may have been daunted by the challenge but Cristián was invigorated. “I saw 11,000 wild unplanted acres, dug into the soil, and knew immediately this virgin land had the potential to create a wine which could stand among the world’s best.” Cristián’s intuition was right. Full of flavor, nuance, and passion; VIK wines are exceptional.

The story of Viña VIK begins with Norwegian entrepreneur Alexander Vik. In 2004, he envisioned a world-class vineyard that would produce unique wines and Vik's quest led him to Chile's Millahue Valley, which means Place of Gold, the name given to this special terrain by the indigenous people. Located in the interior of the valley, Viña VIK boasts a varied terroir and small microclimates with distinct exposures. Cooled by coastal breezes, this geological diversity imbues the grapes with a complexity that is the foundation of great wine. "80% of what you do is in the vineyard and that's the key to the final flavor," said Cristián. For example, to obtain the best quality grapes, VIK always harvests manually and at night, when the grape is coolest.  

image courtesy of Viña VIK

With experience at some of the world's most celebrated wineries in Chile, France, and Spain, Cristián is passionate about crafting wines that are a true expression of terroir. Opting for indigenous yeast during fermentation and refraining from filtering the wines are some of the techniques Cristián implements at VIK to achieve this authenticity. "I don't like to make muscle wines. I want people to finish the bottle." VIK describes themselves as a holistic winery and their portfolio currently consists of three exceptionally well-made wines that are the embodiment of vision, artistry, passion, nature, technology, and intuition. Trust me, finishing a bottle of VIK won't be a problem. 



True confession: my first taste of VIK 2013 ($165.00) was so intense that I blurted out to Cristián, "This is what it must be like to kiss Antonio Banderas!" Admittedly, this is not the most technical of observations but VIK inspired a truly emotional response. That's what the very best wines do. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (67%), Cabernet Franc (17%), Carmenere (14%), and Merlot (2%), this Bordeaux-inspired blend is rich and plush with great freshness and intensity -- just like a perfect kiss. Aged for 23 months in new French oak barrels, VIK's vibrant red & black fruit flavors are enhanced by a tinge of espresso and mocha. With a virtually never-ending finish, VIK is an elegant and thrilling journey. 


VIK Milla Cala 2014 ($44.99) is a captivating blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (55%), Carmenere (27%), Syrah (12%), Merlot (4%), and Cabernet Franc (2%). The five grapes are well integrated but the Carmenere peeks out of the glass just enough to imbue this blend with an unabashedly Chilean sensibility. Aged for 21 months, Milla Cala is complex yet approachable. 

It takes a lot of chutzpah to name a wine "the most beautiful" but there's nothing timid about VIK La Piu Belle 2011($99.99). From the striking artistry of the bottle to the va va voom nature of the vino within, La Piu Belle will not be ignored. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (51%), Carmenere (31%), Cabernet Franc (8%), Merlot (6%), and Syrah (4%) that was aged for 21 months, La Piu Belle is silky, sassy, and sumptuous. The conversation-piece bottle was painted by artist Gonzalo Cienfuegos as an homage to art, the art of winemaking, and VIK's passion for both. Aged for 21 months in new French oak, La Piu Belle is a compelling expression of vibrant fruit with herbal accents. 

image courtesy of Viña VIK

If you're planning a trip to Chile, friends have told me that VIK is an impressive and immersive experience. The expansive property boasts world-class accommodations and invites guests to indulge in a wide variety of activities, including wine tasting, horseback riding, fine dining, trekking, and spa treatments. A visit to Viña VIK has certainly been added to my wine travel wish list! 

image courtesy of Viña VIK

An Elegant Taste of Adventure: Los Vascos Wines from Chile

Los Vascos Carmenere Grande Reserve 2016 ($21.95) is complex and sultry with rich flavors of cherry, ripe berries, and plum with hints of black pepper, bell pepper, dark chocolate, and black olive. 

"Carmenere is not a wine, it's an adventure," said Claudio Naranjo, managing director of Los Vascos in Chile. Like the long-suffering yet indomitable heroine of a telenovela, Carmenere experienced a dramatic case of mistaken identity. Originally a Bordeaux variety, Carmenere came to Chile in the mid-1800's and was accidentally classified as Merlot. But the grape's true identity was discovered in 1994 by a grape classification expert from France and Carmenere quickly secured its position as the grande dame of Chilean red wines. Don't call it a comeback, Carmenere's been here for years!

Baron Éric de Rothschild and Los Vascos winemaker Marcelo Gallardo. 
"Being pioneers in Chile was an exciting challenge, and we have chosen a superb location," said Baron Rothschild. 

The 1988 acquisition of the historic Chilean winery Los Vascos by the iconic Bordeaux wine dynasty, Les Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite), seems destined. The first French viticultural investment in modern Chile, this union is a poetic melding of their shared wine histories. In the mid-nineteenth century, two of the leading Chilean wine producers brought vines from Bordeaux to improve the quality of the original vineyard at Los Vascos. In the late nineteenth century Chile’s natural geographic frontiers protected it from the phylloxera epidemic that ravaged vineyards in Europe. This has resulted in an unbroken line of wine stock at Los Vascos that provides the foundation for wines of exceptional character. 

 

Claudio Naranjo, Managing Director, Los Vascos

I recently had the pleasure of tasting several wines in the Los Vascos portfolio with Claudio and I was impressed by their quality and sense of place. Like a perfectly tailored couture dress, the French influence and tradition are perceptible, but the soul and spirit of Los Vascos are absolutely Chilean. If you want to take your palate on a Chilean adventure with a dash of ooh la la, I recommend exploring Los Vascos. 


Los Vascos Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ($12.95) charms with vibrant citrus and tropical flavors with a hint of spearmint and chamomile. Crisp and refreshing. 

 

Le Dix de Los Vascos 2014 ($69.95) blends Cabernet Sauvignon (85%) with Carmenere (10%)  and Syrah (5%). Le Dix means ten in French and this grand cuvée was introduced in 1996 to celebrate Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite)’s first ten years in Chile. The grapes are sourced from 70-year-old vines in the estate's oldest planted vineyard. A voluptuous and dramatic wine with balanced intensity, the rich berry, dark chocolate, licorice, pepper, and herbal flavors pirouette across the palate. 

Visit the Los Vascos website to learn more about their wines and estate. 

Spring In My Step, Red Wine In My Glass: Saying Bye to Winter with Five Sips Worth the Splurge!

Getting through the long & dark days of winter is reason enough to celebrate! A fine red wine is a year-round pleasure so why not toast the start of spring with a bold sip? My five elegant picks from Italy, California, France, and Chile are absolutely worth splurging on. Go ahead and treat yourself! 

Michele Chiarlo "Tortoniano" Barolo 2012 ($54.99)
Piedmont, Italy
Silky and sultry, Tortoniano is more flirty and fruit-forward than many young-ish Barolos. Michele Chiarlo cleverly thins the Nebbiolo grape clusters and harvests them on the later side so that the fruit attains a higher concentration of flavors. This freshness and juiciness melds beautifully with hints of savory spice and herbs. A refreshingly approachable yet utterly elegant Barolo with no rough edges and a long & luscious finish. Another fine example of why Michele Chiarlo is one of Piedmont's most acclaimed winemakers.  

 

Westwood Estate Mourvedre 2015 ($58)
Sonoma, California 
Widely used as a blending grape in France, marvelous Mourvedre does not have to share the spotlight in this voluptuous and velvety red from Westwood. If you like your reds with a bit of drama, this big beauty's flavors of deep dark fruit with sassy hints of chocolate is sure to captivate you. 

Guigal Côte Rôtie Brune et Blonde 2013 ($85)
Côte Rôtie, France
Opposites attract and connect beautifully in this earthy & elegant blend of brooding Syrah with a kiss of flirty Viognier. Complex but not convoluted, this superb red wine entices with dark fruit and dashes of zesty spice -- it shows why Guigal is synonymous with the wines of Côte Rotie in the northernmost region of southern France's Rhone Valley. 

Casisano Brunello di Montalcino 2012 ($60) 
This sleek and sophisticated Brunello di Montalcino balances freshness with depth and complexity. Quietly sexy, each silky and voluptuous sip tells a story. This is one of those wines that makes everything seem right in the world.   

Marques de Casa Concha Carmenere 2015 ($25)
Peumo, Cachapoal Valley, Chile
For years Carmenere was mistaken for Merlot, but this rich and spicy wine really can't be confused with anything else. A sexy and elegant expression of Chile's iconic Carmenere, this vino has mucho va va voom! Bold flavors of juicy plum, black currants, and dark chocolate are balanced by taut tannins and vibrant acidity. This wine tastes like a splurge but is so affordably priced. 

 

Flirt with Carmenere and You'll Fall in Love with Chile's Signature Red Wine

Carmenere - the deepest, darkest, and most dramatic of the red wine grapes. 
image courtesy of Wines of Chile

 Falling into a wine rut happens to the best of us. You fall in love with a wine and suddenly you've entered into a monogamous relationship, forsaking all other wines. But perhaps your palate doesn't feel the same rush of excitement on the umpteenth pour and familiarity has bred boredom instead of comfort. You don't need to permanently break up with your favorite wine but maybe it's time to flirt with something new to reignite your passion. The discovery of new flavors and regions is an important part of a wine lover's journey. If you haven't flirted with Carmenere, you've been missing out. Chile's signature red wine has an amazing history and a uniquely captivating flavor. But consider yourself warned - after a few dalliances with Carmenere, you may fall in love!


Carmenere Vineyards at Casa Silva 
image courtesy of Wines of Chile

Like a character in a noir film, for many years Carmenere was the victim of mistaken identity - in this instance confused for Merlot. Originally a Bordeaux variety, Carmenere came to Chile in the mid-1800's and was accidentally classified as Merlot and Chileans unknowingly began planting this faux-Merlot in their vineyards. Meanwhile in Europe, all plantings of Carmenere had been destroyed by the 1870's due to the epidemic of phylloxera (a nasty microscopic louse that attacks the roots of grapevines). Carmenere was thought to be gone forever but in 1994 a French expert in grape classification discovered that the variety had been thriving in Chile for centuries with the incorrect name of Merlot. With this amazing revelation, Chile suddenly had the world's largest plantings of a variety that had been considered extinct. Talk about a Hollywood ending! 


Carmenere harvesting in the Colchagua Valley
image courtesy of Wine of Chile

It has been more than 20 years since Carmenere was rediscovered in Chile and the wine's reputation continues to grow tremendously. Carmenere may have French roots but it has reached its ultimate expression in Chile and Chilean winemakers have devoted themselves to showcasing the unique beauty and potential of their superstar wine. Carmenere is a dramatic grape - the deepest, darkest, and most purple of the red grapes. Generally described as having flavors of raspberry and other red fruits with hints of black pepper, and some green bell pepper vegetal flavors, Carmenere's good acidity and mild tannins make it easy to pair with a wide variety of foods. 

So are you ready to flirt with Carmenere? Here are four wines that will wow you!


Casa Silva Carmenere, Cuvée Colchagua 2015 ($15)
The Silva family has serious bragging rights - they pioneered grape growing in Chile's Colchagua Valley with the first vineyards back in 1892 and their cellar is the oldest in the region. Their luscious and lovely Carmenere is a gorgeous introduction to Chile's signature wine. A lovely balance of fruit, earth, and spice with elegantly integrated tannins and a luscious long finish, this is an easygoing yet elegant sip. 



Carmen Carmenere Gran Reserva 2014 ($15)
A more complex expression of Carmenere, Gran Reserva hails from the hills of Apalta in the Colchagua Valley. Rich and concentrated, Carmen captivates with intense dark berry flavors and sexy dashes of sweet spices, tobacco, and earth. Supple and savory, Carmen is a big wine at a friendly price. 



 Ventisquero "Grey" Single Block Carmenere 2014 ($22) 
A stellar expression of a single block of vines at Ventisquero's Trinidad vineyard in the Maipo Valley, Grey is incredibly sophisticated but not pretentious. Vibrant and velvety, Grey has exuberant cherry and berry flavors that are buoyed by a strong earthy foundation.  

Valdivieso Caballo Loco Grand Cru Apalta 2013 ($35)
A bold blend of Carmenere (55%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Caballo Loco (Crazy Horse) lives up to its name and takes your palate on an energetic ride. A fine example of contemporary Chilean winemaking, Caballo Loco has soft tannins but a taut structure with beautifully balanced dark fruit and spice. Quite special. 

To learn more about Carmenere, visit the Wines of Chile website. Snooth is also offering a specially priced 4-pack of Carmenere that includes two of the wines featured in my article. Cheers! 

Chile in Your Glass: The Wines of Viña Maipo

Max Weinlaub, chief winemaker at Viña Maipo in Chile, says that wine "is a matter of balance" and "wine needs to play a bit on the nose and tongue."
image courtesy of Viña Maipo 

Winemaker Max Weinlaub's ebullient personality and encyclopedic knowledge of vino shine through in conversation and in the beautifully crafted wines that he produces for Viña Maipo. A native of Chile, Max has served as chief winemaker at Viña Maipo since 2007 and his meticulous winemaking has been garnering rave reviews at home and beyond.


Founded in 1948 in the Maipo Valley region, Viña Maipo is Chile's 4th largest exporter of wine. From easy-breezy & refreshing whites to complex & robust reds, Viña Maipo produces wines from Chile's main wine regions and offers options for every palate and budget.  


Vitral Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ($11)
Vitral means stained glass window in Spanish and this line of wines is inspired by the light streaming through the windows of the church in Maipo - the winery's hometown has a long & rich religious tradition. Chilean Sauvignon Blanc has become one of my favorite wines and Viña Maipo's lovely expression doesn't disappoint. Refreshing and juicy, cool coastal influences can be tasted in its vibrant flavors of stone fruits, citrus, mango, and crisp minerality. Vitral Sauvignon Blanc is a winning match with fresh shellfish and ceviche but also perfect as an apéritif. 


Vitral Reserva Chardonnay 2016 ($11)
Max said that "Chile in a glass" was his goal with this delightful Chardonnay. A blink of time in French oak adds a subtle touch of cream & vanilla to pure fruit flavors of citrus with a hint of pineapple and white peaches. I loved the honest expression of the Chardonnay in this wine - the judicious use of oak subtly enhanced the flavors of the grape without obscuring its essence. Vitral Reserva Chardonnay is versatile enough to pair with seafood, chicken, and creamy pasta dishes. 



Incredibly expressive and capable of great power and finesse, Carmenere has its roots in Bordeaux but is now most closely identified with Chile. A great introduction to Carmenere and the Viña Maipo style is Vitral Reserva Carmenere 2015 ($13). Max says that "peppery is part of the nature of Carmenere." Those spicy notes are balanced by soft tannins and rich flavors of blueberry, black currants, and lively acidity. A great match with steak or a burger. 



For a more complex expression of Carmenere, give Gran Devoción Carmenere/Syrah 2013 ($25) a swirl. The addition of 15% Syrah deftly amplifies the flavors of this robust but elegant red wine. Viña Maipo planted Chile's very first Syrah vineyards and Max describes Syrah as a "chameleon" and "a grape with many personalities." Syrah is an important component in many of Viña Maipo's top wines. Gran Devoción's flavors of chocolate, violets, blueberries, and blackberries are balanced by soft round tannins and optimal acidity. A luscious and sexy wine, Gran Devoción is a great match with a candlelit meal.



Protegido 2013 ($50) is an artful blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (97%), and 1% each of Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and Petit Verdot that has aged for 20 months in French oak barrels. Complex but not aggressive, the superb quality of the hand-picked grapes is evident in this wine's layers of vibrant dark fruit, spice, and chocolate. 

Wines from Chile are getting a well deserved share of the spotlight and Viña Maipo is an important player. Even Viña Maipo's entry level ones display quality winemaking and a sense of place - authentically Chilean and absolutely delicious!  

 

A Fresh Sip of Chile: Gran Reserva Riverbank Series Wines from Concha y Toro

"I like on the table, when we're speaking, the light of a bottle of intelligent wine." - Pablo Neruda

From the brilliant poetry of Pablo Neruda to images of its stunning landscape and coastline, the South American nation of Chile has long intrigued me. As an adult, I can now add Chilean wines to my list of pleasures and Concha y Toro is a producer that always impresses me with their diverse selection of well-crafted wines. Their Gran Reserva Serie Riberas (Riverbank Series) is a family of single-vineyard wines in which the grapes are grown in close proximity to one of Chile's major rivers. This closeness to the river imbues the grapes with tremendous freshness and minerality. Serie Riberas showcases several varietals and I suggest getting started with the Sauvignon Blanc and Carmenere.


Ucúquer Vineyard near the bank of the Rapel River

Gran Reserva Serie Riberas Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ($17) is produced from grapes grown at the Ucúquer Vineyard near the bank of the Rapel River in the Colchaqua Valley. This vibrant wine has juicy flavors of citrus, green apple, and lime that are elegantly balanced by perky acidity and crisp minerality. Pretty with plenty of finesse, this sip is a perfect match with ceviche, fish, oysters, and shrimp.


Gran Reserva Serie Riberas Carmenere 2014 ($17)
Carmenere may have its roots in Bordeaux but this robust red grape really earned its stellar reputation in Chile. I loved the richness and grace of Gran Reserva's blend of 90% Carmenere and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Juicy flavors of plum, violets, blueberries, and chocolate are balanced by an appealing earthiness and touch of spice. Lively acidity and soft tannins keep this wine alive on your palate, like a tender kiss. Pair with sharp cheeses, roasted & grilled meats, and the poetry of Neruda. Cheers!