Wine With Wanda

Certified Organic & Absolutely Elegant: Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino

 

"People tasting wines at home seem to interpret wines in a different way. Maybe it's because they're surrounded by the usual tastes and aromas. And maybe it's also because they're more relaxed. They tend to sense wine a lot better and I think that's important." 

- Count Francesco Marone Cinzano

It isn't everyday that you get to beam a count into your living room for a wine tasting, but thanks to technology, that's exactly what I did! The charming and erudite Count Francesco Marone Cinzano recently joined me on Instagram Live for a tasting of his beautiful Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino. Col d’Orcia means “the hill overlooking the Orcia River” and it is one of the original estates of Montalcino -- its rich winemaking history dates back to the 1700s. Committed to sustainability, Col d’Orcia is now the largest certified organic estate in Tuscany and they poetically refer to themselves as an organic island.

Joining the Instagram Live chat from the vineyard, Count Cinzano shared tasting notes on Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2015 ($55) and Col d’Orcia Poggio al Vento Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2013 ($150). Both wines are a pure, powerful, and elegant expression of 100% Sangiovese. In response to the COVID-19 pandemic, Count Cinzano is offering wine lovers around the world to join him online for a guided Smart Tasting from the comfort of their homes. He loves the input that he receives from these tastings and says "People tasting wines at home seem to interpret wines in a different way. Maybe it's because they're surrounded by the usual tastes and aromas. And maybe it's also because they're more relaxed. They tend to sense wine a lot better and I think that's important." 

Watch our conversation on YouTube or IGTV.

Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2015 ($55)
Aged three years in oak casks and another year in bottle before release, this 2015 may be young by Brunello standards but it is remarkably approachable and balanced. Over time it will reveal even more complexity, but 2015 is an exceptional Five Star Vintage and the wine is singing beautifully now. Classic and fresh with a kiss of spice. 

Col d’Orcia Poggio al Vento Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2013 ($150)
During our chat, Count Cinzano shared that this was the first certified organic vintage of this Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. The wine is aged a minimum of six years prior to release; four years in Slavonian and French oak casks followed by at least two years refinement in bottle. This wine is an excellent example of the aging potential of a meticulously crafted Brunello di Montalcino. This wine will reveal even more nuance and finesse in the decades to come but right now it is superb. Intense and graceful with impeccable balance. 

 

 

Elegant, Exciting, Enduring: Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino

Tasting wine with Count Francesco Marone Cinzano is a sure-fire way to banish boredom. Bold and elegant with a quick wit, Cinzano and his wines never fail to captivate. I’ve sipped wine with Cinzano several times over the years at events in New York City and I finally had the pleasure of visiting his acclaimed winery, Col d’Orcia, when I was in Italy several months ago for the Brunello di Montalcino anteprima to preview the 2014 vintage.

Col d'Orcia vineyards
image courtesy of Col d'Orcia

A picturesque Tuscan hilltop town located south of Siena, Montalcino is the birthplace of one of Italy’s most revered wines, Brunello di Montalcino. Should I ever leave my cozy Manhattan apartment for more spacious digs, rest assured that my wine cellar would be well stocked with Brunello di Montalcino. Crafted from Sangiovese, which is known locally as Brunello, Brunello di Montalcino is an incredibly expressive and delicious red wine that ages beautifully.

At a dinner hosted by Cinzano at his country home on the Col d’Orcia estate, I experienced first-hand Brunello di Montalcino’s impressive longevity when he surprised us with bottles of rare vintages from 1969 and 1979.

Artful winemaking and the natural acidity of the Sangiovese grapes imbue Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino with a natural freshness that endures for decades. Located on a hill overlooking the Orcia river that inspired its name, Col d’Orcia is the largest certified organic estate in Tuscany and they have designated themselves “an organic island in Montalcino”.  

But you don’t have to wait decades or travel to Montalcino to enjoy these gorgeous wines. Take your palate on a elegant Tuscan journey with Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2014 ($59). 

Aged three years in oak and another year in the bottle, it is a classic expression of Brunello – complex and full but beautifully balanced. By Brunello standards, 2014 is still considered a young wine so if your budget permits, buy one to enjoy now and tuck a few away to revisit over the years to experience the evolution of the wine. 

I also recommend Col d’Orcia Rosso di Montalcino 2016 ($29). Aged for 12 months in Slavonian oak casks, it is a younger and fresher expression of Sangiovese with charming fruit flavors and a kiss of spice.

 

The Bon Vivant of Ruffino: Beppe d'Andrea Shares Tuscany's Wines and Lifestyle with the World

Beppe in the Big Apple! What a great afternoon of wines and conversation at Upland restaurant with Beppe d'Andrea of Ruffino winery during his whirlwind visit to NYC. 

Beppe d'Andrea is living the dream. As the Global Brand Ambassador for Ruffino winery, Beppe jet sets around the world sharing the infinite charms of "La Vita Ruffino", their mantra for the fine Italian art of good living. For quite some time, I've been happily following Beppe's adventures on social media and I finally had the opportunity to share some wine and conversation with this tireless Tuscan. Charming, energetic, knowledgable, and down-to-earth, Beppe has been with Ruffino for 32 years and represents everything a brand ambassador should be. 

One of the most familiar names in the world of Italian wine, Ruffino was founded in 1877 by cousins Ilario and Leopoldo Ruffino in Tuscany. The very first Chianti exported to the United States, Ruffino is a staple at any well-stocked wine shop. Ruffino's portfolio showcases some of Tuscany's most celebrated wines, including Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, and those captivating blends known as Super Tuscans. "The quality of the wine is not just the juice in the bottle," said Beppe. He further explained that for Ruffino winemaking is about "respect, tradition, and love." Those ideals are manifested in actions such as Ruffino actively taking strides towards 100% organic production. 

image courtesy of Il Relais Ruffino

Explaining that Ruffino's "goal is not to make just good wine but a good life style," Beppe shared news of their very first hotel property, Il Relais Ruffino. Designed to fully immerse guests in La Vita Ruffino, the luxuriously appointed 7-room inn is surrounded by olive trees and vineyards in the heart of Chianti Classico. Located just 20 minutes from Florence at Ruffino's Poggio Casciano estate, the property includes a dramatic infinity swimming pool facing a hillside vineyard where you can sip and lounge the day away. Other activities include wine tastings, vineyard tours, and meals at Locanda Ruffino. 

image courtesy of Il Relais Ruffino

A stay at Il Relais Ruffino has been added to my travel wish list. And if any of my friends are reading this, let's plan to rent out the property for a truly elegant and relaxing Tuscan getaway. If we're lucky, maybe Beppe will be there to greet us! 

Of course, Ruffino's wines make it possible to experience a taste of La Vita Ruffino no matter where you are. 

2015 Ruffino Tenuta Santedame Chianti Classico DOCG ($20) is mostly Sangiovese (80%) blended with Merlot, Colorino, Cabernet, and Canaiolo. 2015 was an exceptional vintage throughout Tuscany and this Chianti Classico is beautifully balanced and full of vitality. Fresh, juicy, and velvety flavors of plum, blackberry, and a hint of savory balsamic. 


A blend of Sangiovese (34%), Cabernet Sauvignon (33%), and Merlot (33%), 2015 Ruffino Modus Toscana IGT ($25) is plush and robust with silky tannins. Aged in French oak for 12 months, subtle hints of spice beautifully accent luscious fruit flavors and hints of herbs. 

Produced only in the very best vintages, only 5,000 bottles of 2015 Ruffino Alauda IGT Toscana ($100) were made. A voluptuous yet graceful blend of Cabernet Franc (40%), Merlot (35%), and Colorino (25%), Alauda shows the magic that can happen when the blessing of an exceptional vintage is married to intuitive yet precise winemaking. With rich berry and plum flavors and hints of chocolate, espresso, and earth, Alauda is superb now and will age exquisitely. 

2013 Ruffino Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG ($80) is a fine example of a classic Brunello. Rich but not overbearing, this elegant expression of 100% Sangiovese Grosso dazzles with intense red fruit flavors and sultry hints of chocolate and earth.

Visit the Ruffino website to learn more about Ruffino's wines, history, and details on arranging a visit. 

Brunello for Breakfast: A Far from Traditional Wine Tasting with Tancredi Biondi-Santi

Even in Manhattan, where people pretend not to notice anything, with his impressive stature and perfectly tailored suit, Tancredi Biondi-Santi draws attention when he enters the room. Of course, people were also staring because it was only ten in the morning and our breakfast table was covered with bottles of wine! But not just any wine, Brunello di Montalcino. And not just any Brunello di Montalcino, but the legendary wines of Biondi-Santi. It isn't an exaggeration to say that without Tancredi's ancestors, Brunello di Montalcino might not exist. 

Clemente Santi is considered the founding father of Brunello di Montalcino and Tancredi proudly represents the seventh generation of this winemaking dynasty. In 1869, Clemente Santi's 1865 vintage was awarded a silver medal by the Agrarian Committee of Montepulciano and marks the first recorded mention of Brunello. This trailblazing vino went on to receive prestigious accolades abroad, including in France. According to the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium, "Brunello di Montalcino traces its roots to the 19th century when local farmers began experimenting with a native grape variety cultivated in the surrounding territory. This grape, known as "Brunello" or “Brunellino”, was identified as a variety of Sangiovese. The delectable wine produced from this fruit can be aged for years, richly enhancing its value." In 1980, Brunello di Montalcino was the first wine to receive the prestigious DOCG (Denomination of Origin Controlled and Guaranteed) designation, which represents the highest level of quality for Italian wines. Montalcino, a tiny hilltop town in the heart of Tuscany, is small but mighty in the world of wine.

Many people might be overwhelmed by such a formidable legacy but Tancredi embraces it with grace and humility. Tancredi travels the globe sharing the beauty of Tenuta Greppo Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino and is an in-demand expert not just on his family's wines but the region. Universally acclaimed as one of Italy's finest wines, Brunello di Montalcino is renowned for its elegance, complexity, and longevity. I was delighted at Tancredi's willingness to share his exceptional wines over a casual meal. These wines are so exquisite nothing can diminish their light, indeed they cast a glow over every meal and moment.

With such a storied history, Biondi-Santi is synonymous with tradition but they aren't afraid of respectful innovation. Clearly winemaking has evolved since the 19th century but Tancredi believes that "Technology should not influence the style of the wine. Technology must respect the style of the wine." With that credo, the Biondi-Santi style remains a true reflection of their terroir and tradition. "We innovate as much as we can but maintain our style," said Tancredi. This devotion to tradition isn't just a manifestation of loyalty to the founders but a wise winemaking decision that presents Brunello di Montalcino in the way it was intended to be -- an authentic expression of the terroir and the Sangiovese Grosso grape. For Biondi-Santi, that Sangiovese Grosso grape is specifically their BBS11 clone (Brunello Biondi Santi 11 Clone) which was officially identified in 1970. 

 

Aged 36 months in Slavonian oak, followed by another year of aging in the bottle, Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino 2012 DOCG ($209) is a young wine by Brunello standards; it has the capacity to age another 70-80 years! Nonetheless, I was impressed at the wine's approachability and harmony at this toddler stage of its development. The tannins are firm but not aggressive and the fruit is intense yet graceful. A subtle touch of spice accentuates the wine's freshness and red fruit flavors. This wine was clearly made with passion and precision. 

Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2011 DOCG ($566) is clearly not a casual purchase. But if you want to experience a wine that eloquently expresses the majesty of Brunello di Montalcino, this wine is nearly perfect. I say nearly because while it is stunningly beautiful at this moment, it will reveal its true character over time. It has enough structure to age 70-80 years but displays an appealing vibrancy and nuance that make it an unforgettable wine at this moment. Perhaps Tancredi's father, Jacopo Biondi-Santi says it best, "Set apart by its extreme elegance this bottling gives off a beautiful impression of fruit. The very dry climate has given Brunello Riserva 2011 a rare readiness and drinkability without altering its intensity and longevity potential." Riserva 2011 was aged 36 months in Slavonian oak, followed by 2 years in bottle. 


To experience a bit of the Biondi-Santi mystique at a more accessible price point, their Rosso di Montalcino 2015 ($115) is a charmer. Fresher and flirtier but still elegant, it was aged 12 months in Slavonian oak and has the capacity to age 15-20 years. 

I recognize that the wines of Biondi-Santi are an investment but if you are ever offered a glass, please say yes and savor every sip. Biondi-Santi's wines are to be treasured not only because of their historical significance but they represent a level of winemaking that is to be admired for its authenticity of expression. And if you want to have the fanciest breakfast ever, take a tip from Tancredi and start your day off in grand fashion with Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino. 

Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino for breakfast? Don't mind if I do! It was such an unforgettable treat to taste these very special wines with Tancredi Biondi-Santi. 

Wine Makes a Family: The Enduring Legacy of Ruffino

 

"We don't just want to share the calm side of Tuscany, we want to share the adrenaline, the competition of the harvest, the emotion." - Gabriele Tacconi, Chief Winemaker, Ruffino

Italy is renowned for its legendary winemaking families that span generations and centuries. But it isn't just shared DNA that defines a family, familial bonds are also built by a mutual commitment and passion for a common cause. So I don't doubt Ruffino winemaker Gabriele Tacconi's sincerity when he strongly proclaims "We are proud. We are the family." The we that Gabriele speaks of, the winemaking team at Ruffino, may not have Ruffino in their genetic bloodline but they are united in their devotion to its legacy and future. “The Ruffino style is steeped in tradition, elegance, and drinkability, and has been developed over time. It’s a style that my team and I treat with great respect."

Founded in 1877 in Tuscany by cousins Ilario and Leopoldo Ruffino, the winery has survived and thrived for more than 140 years. The very first Chianti wine exported to the United States, Ruffino has won countless awards and acclaim -- in the early 19th century they were even selected as the official supplier of the Italian royal court. But we're living in the 21st century. How do Ruffino's wines fit into the lives of today's wine lovers around the globe?


image courtesy of Ruffino

Over lunch at Union Square Cafe in Manhattan, Gabriele shared his reverence for Ruffino's storied past. But this motorcycle-loving modern man from Modena is all about making wines that speak to how we live, dine, and entertain today. Elegant but not pretentious, complex but not arrogant, Gabriele and the wines he makes for Ruffino are authentic and intriguing. "It is the passion, not perfection that brings people to wine," said Gabriele.


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2014 ($40.99)
Gran Selezione is an exclusive and relatively new category that represents an elite selection of wines at the very top of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid. A blend of high quality Sangiovese, Merlot, and Colorino grapes from several Ruffino estates in the heart of Castellina in Chianti, Riserva Ducale Oro is meticulously aged for 36 months. Translating to "Reserved for the Duke," Riserva Ducale is named after the Duke of Aosta -- he appointed Ruffino as the royal court's official wine supplier in 1890. I think the Duke would approve of this elegant and expressive wine and its precise but passionate fruit, herb, and earth flavors. Bold and beautifully structured with well-integrated tannins and lively acidity, this wine has what it takes to age gracefully. 


Ruffino Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 ($80)
Beyond Chianti Classico, Ruffino also produces another of Italy's most revered wines, Brunello di Montalcino, at their Greppone Mazzi estate. A pure expression of place and grapes, it is crafted from 100% Sangiovese Grosso, which is known as Brunello in the Montalcino region of Tuscany. Crafted from the finest grapes in the vineyard, Greppone Mazzi was aged a total of 40 months. Complex and nuanced with impressive balance, Greppone Mazzi is rich but not overbearing. Luscious and deep red fruit flavors are bolstered by warm hints of chocolate and earth. A sophisticated sip meant to stand the test of time. 



Ruffino Modus 2015 ($24.99)
 Modus elegantly blends Tuscany's signature Sangiovese with the international varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Plush and plummy with silky tannins, this superb Super Tuscan was aged in French oak for 12 months. Subtle hints of vanilla beautifully accent the luscious fruit flavors and hints of herbs. 



Ruffino Alauda 2015 ($99)
Only produced in exceptional vintages, Alauda blends international favorites Cabernet Franc and Merlot with the Tuscan variety Colorino. All of the grapes are sourced exclusively from Ruffino's finest vineyards at their acclaimed Montemasso and Poggio Casciano estates in the heart of Tuscany. These low-yield vines produce limited quantities of exceptional fruit. Aged a total of 22 months, Alauda is sultry and voluptuous with velvety tannins and impressive complexity and grace. Big ripe berry and plum flavors meld harmoniously with touches of dark chocolate and savory & sweet balsamic notes. Another Ruffino wine that will age extremely well for many years. 


image courtesy of Ruffino

I've only scratched the surface of Ruffino -- their extensive portfolio includes white, red, sparkling and rosé. From everyday drinking wines to more complex splurge-worthy vinos, La Vita Ruffino, the embodiment of the fine Italian art of good living, is accessible to everyone. And if your travels take you to Tuscany, you can get more fully immersed in La Vita Ruffino by booking a Ruffino tour and tasting. Winemaker Gabriele said, "My favorite wine is the one that brings something special to the bottle. It is a story of people and I want to bring us to the bottle." So the next time you see a bottle of Ruffino at a wine shop or restaurant, remember the story of Gabriele and the team that have bonded together to create a modern expression of a winemaking family. 

Beauty, Power, Brunello: Tenute Silvio Nardi Makes Meaningful Montalcino Wines

 

Emilia Nardi, the youngest daughter of the founder of Tenute Silvio Nardi, began managing the winery at the age of 30.

Emilia Nardi proves that authentic power isn't loud and flashy. Soft-spoken with a commanding presence, Emilia's charisma lies in her elegant demeanor. It's no wonder that Emilia is one of the most respected women in the wine world and a true leader in the prestigious realm of Brunello di Montalcino.

Continuing the family legacy that began when her father Silvio purchased the Casale del Bosco estate in 1950, Emilia has led Tenute Silvio Nardi since she was 30 years old and has put her executive MBA to impressive use by focusing on modernizing the estate and vineyard development. Her innovations have not gone unnoticed and in 2004 Emilia was recognized by Italy's Agricultural Ministry as a Female Agricultural Innovator. Emilia is the real deal.   


Casale del Bosco vineyard
image courtesy of Tenute Silvio Nardi

When an invitation arrived to meet Emilia and taste her family's acclaimed wines, I did not hesitate to say yes. One of Italy's most iconic wine regions, when Silvio Nardi arrived in 1950, Montalcino was not the global powerhouse that it is today. In fact, being from Umbria, Nardi was actually considered the first "foreigner" to invest in Montalcino. One of the founding members of the powerful Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, Nardi's intuition and investment paid off beautifully as shown by the worldwide esteem and craving for Brunello. 

Harvest at Tenute Silvio Nardi
image courtesy of Tenute Silvio Nardi

Brunello di Montalcino is produced from Tuscany's celebrated Sangiovese grape but this one grape expresses itself in infinite ways based on terroir and winemaking technique. Tenute Silvio Nardi has extensively invested in development and research to select the best Sangiovese clones. They also focus on creating terroir-driven wines from their estates. Truly a family affair, Emilia's nephew, Emanuele Nardi, has held the prestigious position of winemaker since 2008.


 
Tenute Silvio Nardi Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2016 ($29.99) is an affordable and elegant introduction to their wine style. Matured in oak casks for only six months, the wine retains impressive youth and freshness. Lovely flavors of fresh ripe cherry and pomegranate meld seamlessly with fine tannins and a hint of clove and pepper. Elegant but easygoing! 



Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012 ($64.99) blends the finest Sangiovese grapes from their Manachiara and Casale del Bosco estates. Aged for 12 months in French oak barriques, 18 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, and bottle aged at least 12 months before release; this wine goes on quite a journey. Of course, this extensive and elaborate aging process makes Brunello more intense than the younger Rosso but it still displays impressive freshness because of its lively acidity. Layered and complex, it has bold red and black berry flavors, hints of licorice, clove, and herbs. Round and velvety with great structure, this Brunello will age beautifully. When buying Brunello, Emilia recommends getting 3 bottles "1 for now, 1 to drink in 10 years, 1 to drink in 20 years."



Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino Manachiara DOCG 2012 ($114.99) is a single-vineyard superstar. The Manachiara estate was purchased in 1962 and the Manachiara vineyard has vines that are about 50 years old -- the estate's oldest. These mature vines produce grapes with impressive character and flavor and this Brunello conveys that beautifully. Rich and supple, it is an alluring melange of intense fruit with vibrant floral and spice notes with gripping minerality. This wine will grow even more captivating as time goes by. 


Do you still doubt the aging potential of a finely crafted Brunello di Montalcino? During our dinner, Emilia surprised us with some old vintages, including this impressive 1968! Even at 50 years old, it showed outstanding structure and nuance -- an excellent bellwether for younger vintages of Tenute Silvio Nardi wines. 

Wine About Town: Slow Wine, Benvenuto Brunello, Amarone Families, and Domaine Select

One of the many joys of wine is getting to spend time with the people that turn grapes into drinkable art; their talent and passion inspire me everyday. New York City is always a top destination for winemakers and my hometown hosts a never-ending parade of tasting events. Each month or so, my new Wine About Town column will showcase some of the marvelous winemakers & tastemakers that I've had the pleasure of sharing a bottle with at events in NYC. There is never a drought of great Italian wine tastings in the Big Apple, so this inaugural edition of Wine About Town is all about sipping La Dolce Vita!  

Winemaker Giampaolo Tabarrini was in a cheerful mood at the Slow Wine 2018 Tasting at Eataly Downtown. 

I've admired his wines for a long time so it was truly a treat to finally meet Giampaolo Tabarrini at the Slow Wine tasting. Friends had told me that this talented winemaker from Umbria was gregarious and high-energy and I found myself delightfully swept up in his vino vortex. The Tabarrini family has been making wine for four generations in Umbria, outside of Montefalco.



Celebrated for his complex single-vineyard Sagrantino wines, I'm also a big fan of Giampaolo's white wine Tabarrini Adarmando (around $23). Inspired by his grandfather Armando, Adarmando is produced from the local Trebbiano Spoletino grape and is a beautifully textured and expressive wine. Tabarrini is a great example of Slow Wine's mission to showcase small-scale Italian winemakers that respect tradition, the environment, and terroir. 

Angela Velenosi in NYC at the Domaine Select grand portfolio tasting at the Kimpton Hotel Eventi.

One of the most dynamic and well-known personalities in wine, I refer to Angela Velenosi as The Lady from Le Marche. A true force of nature, Angela entered the wine business more than 30 years ago with very little capital and now Cantina Velenosi is one of the powerhouses of the region. Velenosi produces a wide array of wines from their vineyards in Italy's Le Marche region, including many from indigenous grapes like Passerina, Pecorino, and Lacrima. Her superb red wines Offida Ludi 2013 ($65, blend of Montepulciano, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot) and Rosso Piceno Superiore Roggio del Filare 2013 ($55, blend of Sangiovese and Montepulciano) each received an impressive 90 points in Wine Spectator. 

Francesco Marone Cinzano, chairman of Col d'Orcia, was in NYC for the annual Benvenuto Brunello tasting at Gotham Hall.  

Benvenuto Brunello is always one of the most festive and highly anticipated events on the NYC wine calendar and this year's tasting of Brunello di Montalcino 2013, Riserva 2012, Rosso di Montalcino 2016, Moscadello, and Sant’Antimo did not disappoint. Many of the producers described 2013 as a classic vintage that will age beautifully. Col d'Orcia is always one of the standouts; the wines are consistently evocative and Count Cinzano's witty sense of humor shows that fine wine can be lots of fun. Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2013 ($55) is an elegant addition to any meal or occasion.
 

Winemaker Maddalena Pasqua di Bisceglie of Musella Winery was in NYC for the Historic Families tasting at Del Posto. 

A biodynamic Amarone? That's pretty exciting and ambitious but Musella's commitment is paying off beautifully. Musella Amarone della Valpolicella elegantly conveys a sense of their terroir, in the hills near Verona, with impressive freshness and structure. Historic Families (Le Famiglie Storiche) represents thirteen quintessential producers of Amarone della Valpolicella, the Italian noble red that hails from Italy’s Veneto region. Each producer has their own style but share a dedication to preserving the integrity of Amarone. Musella Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva 2011($64) balances Amarone's signature richness with an enticing melange of freshness and earthiness. 

Spring In My Step, Red Wine In My Glass: Saying Bye to Winter with Five Sips Worth the Splurge!

Getting through the long & dark days of winter is reason enough to celebrate! A fine red wine is a year-round pleasure so why not toast the start of spring with a bold sip? My five elegant picks from Italy, California, France, and Chile are absolutely worth splurging on. Go ahead and treat yourself! 

Michele Chiarlo "Tortoniano" Barolo 2012 ($54.99)
Piedmont, Italy
Silky and sultry, Tortoniano is more flirty and fruit-forward than many young-ish Barolos. Michele Chiarlo cleverly thins the Nebbiolo grape clusters and harvests them on the later side so that the fruit attains a higher concentration of flavors. This freshness and juiciness melds beautifully with hints of savory spice and herbs. A refreshingly approachable yet utterly elegant Barolo with no rough edges and a long & luscious finish. Another fine example of why Michele Chiarlo is one of Piedmont's most acclaimed winemakers.  

 

Westwood Estate Mourvedre 2015 ($58)
Sonoma, California 
Widely used as a blending grape in France, marvelous Mourvedre does not have to share the spotlight in this voluptuous and velvety red from Westwood. If you like your reds with a bit of drama, this big beauty's flavors of deep dark fruit with sassy hints of chocolate is sure to captivate you. 

Guigal Côte Rôtie Brune et Blonde 2013 ($85)
Côte Rôtie, France
Opposites attract and connect beautifully in this earthy & elegant blend of brooding Syrah with a kiss of flirty Viognier. Complex but not convoluted, this superb red wine entices with dark fruit and dashes of zesty spice -- it shows why Guigal is synonymous with the wines of Côte Rotie in the northernmost region of southern France's Rhone Valley. 

Casisano Brunello di Montalcino 2012 ($60) 
This sleek and sophisticated Brunello di Montalcino balances freshness with depth and complexity. Quietly sexy, each silky and voluptuous sip tells a story. This is one of those wines that makes everything seem right in the world.   

Marques de Casa Concha Carmenere 2015 ($25)
Peumo, Cachapoal Valley, Chile
For years Carmenere was mistaken for Merlot, but this rich and spicy wine really can't be confused with anything else. A sexy and elegant expression of Chile's iconic Carmenere, this vino has mucho va va voom! Bold flavors of juicy plum, black currants, and dark chocolate are balanced by taut tannins and vibrant acidity. This wine tastes like a splurge but is so affordably priced. 

 

Behind the Brunello Bottle with Il Poggione Winemaker Alessandro Bindocci

"Wine is science but also beauty and memories." - Alessandro Bindocci

Winemaker Alessandro Bindocci exudes the endearing confidence of a man following his passion and destiny. The son of celebrated winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci, Alessandro has known since the tender age of 6 that wine would be at the center of his life. Today, Alessandro works side-by-side with his father at Il Poggione in Montalcino to produce acclaimed Brunello di Montalcino - one of Italy's most impressive and elegant wines.


 Fabrizio and Alessandro Bindocci

Fabrizio Bindocci began working at Il Poggione in 1976 and Alessandro joined the winery in 2005 after completing his advanced degree in enology at the University of Pisa. Purchased by the Franceschi family in 1890, today Il Poggione is in the hands of the fifth generation. More than a winery, Il Poggione is a working farm with livestock, produce, and olive trees (you can also purchase their olive oil).


Over a lively lunch at Morandi restaurant in New York City, Alessandro shared Il Poggione wines and plenty of wisdom and humor. From vibrant rosé to sophisticated Brunello di Montalcino, the personality of Il Poggione wines shines through - just like the winemaker. 

Il Poggione Brancato Rosato 2015 ($18.99)

Alessandro charmingly describes rosé as "fruit juice for grown ups!" Refreshing and vivacious, this eye-catching coppery-salmon hued wine is made from 100% Sangiovese. Its round and luscious texture and flavors of orange zest, ginger, and cherry give this vino approachable complexity. Delicious enough to sip by itself but substantial enough to pair with Prosciutto and fried calamari. 



Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino 2014 ($29.99)

I like to think of Rosso di Montalcino as Brunello's flirty younger sibling. Like Brunello, Rosso is produced from 100% Sangiovese but it is aged for a much shorter period of time. Juicy and fruit-forward, Il Poggione's Rosso has mouth-watering cherry and wild red berry flavors, velvety tannins, and a lovely lingering finish. This vino has personality for days and gives a satisfying tease of the taste of Brunello: some even call it a "Baby Brunello." Pair with pizza, pasta, barbecue, or a burger.  

 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2011($84.99) 
Although it was aged for three years in large French oak barrels, this Brunello is not overwhelmed by woody characteristics. As Alessandro said, "you should taste the wine, not the oak. Sangiovese is a beautiful grape but it is delicate and can be overpowered by oak." This stellar vino is full and well-balanced with complex flavors of cherry, leather, spices, and earth. A perfect match with a juicy steak and hearty mushroom dishes. 



Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli 2010 ($125)
Produced only in the best years and in limited quantities, this beautiful Brunello comes from the oldest vineyard on the Il Poggione estate - I Paganelli. This vino displays a beautiful integration of fruit, wood, and time. Concentrated yet graceful, this sophisticated sip displays impressive energy and freshness along with hints of spice and leather. Pair with a candlelight dinner of Bistecca Fiorentina (Tuscan style Porterhouse steak). 



If you are planning a trip to Montalcino, Il Poggione welcomes visitors for tours and tastings by appointment. Accommodations are also available at a completely restored estate farmhouse. Sounds like a perfect Tuscan getaway! 

Beauty You Can Drink: Brunello di Montalcino

 
In an increasingly complicated and crazy world, a bottle of Brunello di Montalcino is a reminder that beauty exists. One of Italy's most celebrated wines, Brunello di Montalcino is produced in the relatively tiny Tuscan territory of Montalcino from the Sangiovese grape (named "Brunello" in Montalcino.) Only 15% of Montalcino's 24,000 hectares consist of vineyards but the exceptional wines they produce are coveted around the world. Elegant and expressive with impressive aging potential, Brunello di Montalcino pairs beautifully with food and elevates every meal and occasion. Brunello di Montalcino carries the DOCG classification which indicates the highest level of quality for Italian wine. After aging in oak casks (for at least 2 years) and in the bottle (at least 4 months, 6 for the Riserva), Brunello is available for sale on the 1st of January of the 5th year following harvest (6th year for the Riserva). 

Giacomo Pondini, Managing Director of Consorzio Vino Brunello Montalcino, is a charming ambassador for this exceptional wine. 

The annual Benvenuto Brunello tasting is one of the most exciting events on the wine trade calendar. Organized by the Consortium of the Brunello of Montalcino Wine, the event recently traveled to New York and Houston. Around fifty Brunello producers shared the newly released 2012 vintage which is being praised as a 5-Star Vintage for its unabashed prettiness, balance, and purity of fruit. Many producers also shared their Rosso di Montalcino which is also produced from Sangiovese but is available for sale on September 1 of the year following the vintage. Rosso di Montalcino is a delicious and more affordable way to experience a hint of Brunello. Expect to pay at least $50 for a bottle of Brunello and around $25-$30 for Rosso. 

Benvenuto Brunello certainly reminded me of why I love this wine so much. Brunello di Montalcino displays beautiful fruit, floral, and earthy flavors and each producer's wine expresses these characteristics in unique ways. Here are a few highlights from the day and some recommended wines. Cheers!  

Count Francesco Marone Cinzano of Col d'Orcia has me very tempted to write a novel that includes a dapper, distinguished, and down-to-earth producer of Brunello di Montalcino. With his dynamic personality and outstanding wines, the Count embodies the passion and sophistication of the area's winemakers. Col d'Orcia produces elegant and expressive organic wines at their vineyard whose name translates to "hill overlooking the Orcia River." Brunello di Montalcino is known to age beautifully and a sip of Col d'Orcia 1987 showcased how gracefully a well-crafted Brunello evolves.
Recommended Wines: Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012 and Col d' Orcia Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2014

On my last trip to Tuscany, I could see the majestic Castello Banfi beckoning in the distance. Alas, my itinerary did not permit me to visit but I assure you that I will never let that opportunity pass me by again. A family-owned vineyard estate and winery, Castello Banfi was founded on the philosophy of blending tradition with innovation. The precision and expressiveness of their Brunello di Montalcino is a stellar representation of the varietal.
Recommended Wines: Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012 and Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2012

The Brunello di Montalcino produced by Giovanna Neri at her Col di Lamo winery captures her personality: modern, sophisticated, and vibrant. Trained as a lawyer, Giovanna inherited her passion for wine from her father. Giovanna aims to showcase the feminine side of Brunello and her label even depicts a graceful female profile. 
Recommended Wines: Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012 and Col di Lamo Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2014 

Lorenzo Magnelli, chief winemaker at Le Chiuse is truly a son of Montalcino - he is the great-great grandson of Ferruccio Biondi-Santi who is credited with creating Brunello di Montalcino in 1888. Lorenzo's award-winning wines beautifully honor his family's legacy and he gracefully balances tradition with innovations such as state-of the-art wine cellars. 
Recommended Wines: Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012 and Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2014

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A Taste of Brunello di Montalcino with Winemaker Lorenzo Magnelli of Le Chiuse

Winemaker Lorenzo Magnelli pours his award-winning Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2010 at the Tre Bicchieri tasting sponsored by Gambero Rosso.

Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy's most revered wines but dynamic winemaker Lorenzo Magnelli of Le Chiuse reminded me not to be intimidated - like all wines, Brunello is meant to be enjoyed. Lorenzo is the ideal person to unravel the mystique of this red wine from southern Tuscany - he is the great-great grandson of Ferruccio Biondi-Santi who is credited with creating Brunello di Montalcino in 1888. The present day Le Chiuse vineyards are part of the original Biondi-Santi land holdings. Brunello is clearly in this family's DNA!

Produced exclusively from the Sangiovese Grosso grape, in 1980 Brunello di Montalcino became the first Italian wine to receive DOCG status - the highest classification level for wines in Italy. Brunello di Montalcino is celebrated for its elegance, complexity, and long aging potential.

Sangiovese Grosso grapes at Le Chiuse

Only 31 years old, Lorenzo has been the chief winemaker at Le Chiuse since 2006 and even remembers helping out in the vineyards when he was five years old. Lorenzo said that Montalcino is in his heart but he also broadened his experience by working a harvest in Napa Valley. Lorenzo is committed to maintaining the traditions of his family's legacy and that devotion has been acknowledged with positive reviews and prestigious awards - Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino 2010 was recently awarded the prestigious Tre Bicchieri wine award by Italy's influential Gambero Rosso organization. 

 

Watch the video to see Lorenzo describe the aromas and flavors of Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino.

 
In our podcast conversation, Lorenzo shares more of his family history, winemaking philosophy, the incredible aging potential of Brunello, and how his Champagne loving wife inspired him to produce a Sangiovese based sparkling wine! For an introduction to the wines of Le Chiuse, I recommend starting with Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2010 and Le Chiuse Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2013.


Aged 3 years in oak and 2 years in the bottle, Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2010 ($60) displays the powerful beauty of Brunello - it is delicious now but has the capacity to age elegantly for at least another 15 years. It is a complex and well-structured wine with harmonious dark berry and plum flavors balanced by an elegant earthiness.


Le Chiuse Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2013 ($30) is produced from the same Sangiovese Grosso grapes but it spends just a few months in oak. A fresher expression of the varietal, Rosso di Montalcino is meant to enjoy now. Rosso is an excellent way to experience the essence of Sangiovese Grosso at a fraction of the Brunello price.



If you're planning a trip to southern Tuscany, Le Chiuse provides agriturismo with a historic home that was built in 1840 and restored in the late 1990s. Located on the slopes of Montalcino, it has a swimming pool and is surrounded by vineyards, the winery, and the spectacular rolling hills of Tuscany.

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