Wine With Wanda

Back to the Beginning: A Heartwarming Wine Reunion with Marchesi di Barolo

 

Such a joy to catch up with Anna Abbona of the iconic Marchesi di Barolo winery. 

In the early days of my wine writing journey I was invited to an intimate tasting in Manhattan featuring the wines of Marchesi di Barolo. Back in 2012, I had never visited Italy, probably couldn't find Piedmont on a map, and had no idea that Nebbiolo was the grape used to make Barolo. Taking my seat at the table, I wondered how I ended up with a Master of Wine to my right and a major wine critic across from me. Humbled and exhilarated, I soaked up every bit of knowledge as the experts discussed the nuances of the exquisite decades-old wines in our glasses. But my strongest memory that day is of the Abbona family, the owners, producers, and ambassadors of Marchesi di Barolo: Anna the elegant matriarch, Ernesto the stoic patriarch and fifth-generation winemaker, Valentina the charismatic eldest child who translated for her father, and Davide the shy but sweet youngest member of the famiglia Abbona. 

Meet the Abbona family! Ernesto, Valentina, Davide, and Anna. 
image courtesy of Marchesi di Barolo 

So much has changed in my life since that day seven years ago. I've learned more about wine, been to Italy more than a dozen times, and know many wonderful winemakers. But I've never forgotten that tasting with the Abbona family. The beauty of their wines and closeness as a family left a big impression on me. But I also remember that every member of the Abbona family treated me with warmth and respect. They made me feel just as important as the big shots in the room. 

So when I received an invitation a few months ago to meet with Anna Abbona while she was in NYC, my heart skipped a beat. Too many years had passed since our last meeting and I could not wait to taste Marchesi di Barolo with Anna by my side. Greeting each other with big hugs, it felt like no time had passed at all. But some things had certainly changed. Her daughter Valentina is now known globally as a passionate ambassador of her family's wines and Davide's teen years and shyness are behind him and he is also an integral and visible part of the family business. Anna told me that she's so happy that her children genuinely love the business and that she doesn't take it for granted. 

And the Marchesi di Barolo wines were as wonderful as I remember. Anna said, "Every wine is different. You can recognize our style but each wine has its own personality." But Anna also acknowledges that as "the winery where Barolo was born, we have to maintain tradition."

100% Cortese, crisp and refreshing Marchesi di Barolo Gavi di Gavi DOCG 2017 ($20) is a great match with the mood and meals of summer. Full and vibrant citrus flavors with touches of chamomile, almond, and salinity. 

Austere but elegant, Marchesi di Barolo Tradizione Barolo DOCG 2014 ($58) is a fine example of a traditional Barolo and the house style. Earthy and nuanced flavors of tart cherry, truffles, and tea leaves. 

Full and round, Marchesi di Barolo "Ruvei" Barbera d'Alba DOC 2016 ($21) gets added complexity from a dash of Nebbiolo (15%). Robust cherry and red-fruit flavors with hints of herbs and white pepper. 


 100% Barbera, Marchesi di Barolo "Peiragal" Barbera d'Alba DOC 2014 ($32) is a charming and fruit-forward vino. Soft and juicy with great acidity with some tantalizing toasty notes. Elegant and easygoing.

Anna proudly cradles a bottle of Marchesi di Barolo "Sarmassa" Barolo DOCG 2013 ($119). A stunning single-vineyard Barolo, Sarmassa transmits the story of terroir and impeccable winemaking. A powerful and complex wine with precise structure, Sarmassa has the capacity to age at least 25-30 years. 

It was such a joy to reconnect with Anna and to learn more of the Abbona family's story through her words and their wines. Now that I can find Piedmont on the map, I hope to visit the Marchesi di Barolo estate on a future trip to Italy. Are you headed to Piemonte? Make your reservation for a wine tasting or dinner at Marchesi di Barolo. And no passport is needed to take your palate on a journey with their expressive and elegant wines. 

Spring In My Step, Red Wine In My Glass: Saying Bye to Winter with Five Sips Worth the Splurge!

Getting through the long & dark days of winter is reason enough to celebrate! A fine red wine is a year-round pleasure so why not toast the start of spring with a bold sip? My five elegant picks from Italy, California, France, and Chile are absolutely worth splurging on. Go ahead and treat yourself! 

Michele Chiarlo "Tortoniano" Barolo 2012 ($54.99)
Piedmont, Italy
Silky and sultry, Tortoniano is more flirty and fruit-forward than many young-ish Barolos. Michele Chiarlo cleverly thins the Nebbiolo grape clusters and harvests them on the later side so that the fruit attains a higher concentration of flavors. This freshness and juiciness melds beautifully with hints of savory spice and herbs. A refreshingly approachable yet utterly elegant Barolo with no rough edges and a long & luscious finish. Another fine example of why Michele Chiarlo is one of Piedmont's most acclaimed winemakers.  

 

Westwood Estate Mourvedre 2015 ($58)
Sonoma, California 
Widely used as a blending grape in France, marvelous Mourvedre does not have to share the spotlight in this voluptuous and velvety red from Westwood. If you like your reds with a bit of drama, this big beauty's flavors of deep dark fruit with sassy hints of chocolate is sure to captivate you. 

Guigal Côte Rôtie Brune et Blonde 2013 ($85)
Côte Rôtie, France
Opposites attract and connect beautifully in this earthy & elegant blend of brooding Syrah with a kiss of flirty Viognier. Complex but not convoluted, this superb red wine entices with dark fruit and dashes of zesty spice -- it shows why Guigal is synonymous with the wines of Côte Rotie in the northernmost region of southern France's Rhone Valley. 

Casisano Brunello di Montalcino 2012 ($60) 
This sleek and sophisticated Brunello di Montalcino balances freshness with depth and complexity. Quietly sexy, each silky and voluptuous sip tells a story. This is one of those wines that makes everything seem right in the world.   

Marques de Casa Concha Carmenere 2015 ($25)
Peumo, Cachapoal Valley, Chile
For years Carmenere was mistaken for Merlot, but this rich and spicy wine really can't be confused with anything else. A sexy and elegant expression of Chile's iconic Carmenere, this vino has mucho va va voom! Bold flavors of juicy plum, black currants, and dark chocolate are balanced by taut tannins and vibrant acidity. This wine tastes like a splurge but is so affordably priced. 

 

Authentic Icon: Winemaker Michele Chiarlo Celebrates His 60th Piedmont Harvest

  Michele and Stefano Chiarlo

In a world that seems to increasingly regard superficiality as a virtue, it is refreshing to attend a celebration of genuine talent and impressive longevity. The words icon and legend are often tossed around too casually but they authentically apply to winemaker Michele Chiarlo. His namesake winery in Piedmont, in the north of Italy, is world-renowned for its elegant and exceptional wines. Mr. Chiarlo was recently in New York City to celebrate a tremendous milestone -  his 60th harvest and the 40th anniversary of the partnership with his importer in the United States, Kobrand.


If you meet someone that has a bottle of Michele Chiarlo's 1978 Granduca Barolo in their cellar, be nice and hope they share. This exquisite wine shows the impressive aging power of Barolo. 

With his winemaker son Stefano by his side, Mr. Chiarlo shared stories of his early visits to the United States, decades ago, when most Americans had no idea of what Barolo was. My how times have changed, in no small part as a direct result of Mr. Chiarlo's talent and Kobrand's commitment to making Barolo available to American consumers. Today Barolo, the king of wines and the wine of kings, is among the most coveted by wine lovers. Although rooted in tradition and specialists in the 4 grapes that are the most important Piedmont varietals (Nebbiolo, Barbera, Cortese, and Moscato), it was Chiarlo's embrace of innovation that set him apart from the rest and helped to secure Piedmont's status as one of the world's greatest wine regions. Chiarlo expertly improved winemaking technique while retaining his commitment "to respect the character of the wine."


A view of the Michele Chiarlo vineyards

"Piemonte is a special region with a special terroir," said Mr. Chiarlo of the mountainous region where the family owns 148 hectares of estate vineyards, including the renowned vineyards of La Court, Cerequio, and Cannubi. If you're ready to explore the wines of Piemonte, Michele Chiarlo is a very fine way to begin your tasting journey. Beautifully crafted yet not overly manipulated, Michele Chiarlo's wines have a sense of place and express his 60 years of commitment to bottling the very best that his land offers. I recommend starting with two Michele Chiarlo wines: Cipressi Barbera Nizza DOCG 2015 and Barolo Cerequio DOCG 2013. 


Cipressi Barbera Nizza DOCG 2015 ($27.99)
Cipressi's name and label are inspired by the Cypress trees atop one of the hills on the Chiarlo estate. 100% Barbera, this pretty ruby-red wine has refreshing acidity and low tannins. A sweet sensation on the nose but delightfully dry with fresh red berry flavors and a hint of savory licorice and spice. (Available in the US starting March 2018)


Cerequio Barolo DOCG 2013 ($100.99)
A stellar example of a single-vineyard Barolo, Cerequio's soil composition and mild climate make it one of the most prestigious crus of the Langhe zone. Quite young by Barolo standards, the 2013 already displays great balance between fruit, tannins, and spice. Based on the magical 1997 and 1978 Chiarlo vintages that I tasted, this 2013 has a long and beautiful life ahead. 

Click here to learn more about Michele Chiarlo wines and how to book tours and tastings at their estate in Piedmont.