Wine With Wanda

A Conversation with Wine Educator & Brand Ambassador May Matta-Aliah

The second episode of Wine With Wanda on Instagram Live featured wine educator and brand ambassador May Matta-Aliah. May holds a Diploma in Wine & Spirits from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET). She is also a Certified Educator (WSET) and holds the Advanced Sommelier Certification from the American Sommelier Association. As a brand ambassador, May represents wine and spirits regions and brands as their primary educator and ambassador. Her current brand ambassador clients include Franciacorta, Armagnac, and Alto Adige. 

During our chat, May describes her wine journey, the role of formal wine education, what makes Alto Adige such a special wine region, and why you shouldn't judge a wine solely by its color. In the video we're both sipping wines from Alto Adige; May's pick was Nals Margreid Galea Schiava 2018 Alto Adige DOC (around $20) and mine was Elena Walch Vigna Castel Ringberg Pinot Grigio 2018 Alto Adige DOC (around $29). 

 

Peter Zemmer "Giatl" Proves That Pinot Grigio Can Be Exciting!

I’ve never ever called a Pinot Grigio sexy until now! Peter Zemmer “Giatl” Pinot Grigio Riserva DOC 2016 ($38) will make you reconsider everything you think you know about Italy’s most famous white wine. Alto Adige, located in the northeast of Italy on the border of Austria and Switzerland, is truly one of Italy’s finest regions for Pinot Grigio; the Alpine climate and terroir produce superb grapes. But even in a land renowned for excellent white wines, Zemmer's Giatl ups the ante.

Peter Zemmer Pinot Grigio Riserva “Giatl” vineyard in Alto Adige. Giatl means “little property” or “little vineyard” in the local dialect.

Alto Adige’s first and only DOC Riserva Pinot Grigio, Giatl was fermented in French oak barriques and casks, aged in oak for a year, followed by six months in stainless steel on the lees, and six more months of bottle rest. This meticulous winemaking paid off. Rich and textured with tremendous minerality and a voluptuous yet graceful body; Giatl has crisp and rich fruit, a hint of cream, and a touch of warm spice. This is no easy breezy porch pounder. Giatl is a gastronomic wine that opens up beautifully in the glass. To truly enjoy its full range of flavors, don't serve it too cold. Exquisitely structured Giatl is a Pinot Grigio that can age for several years. 


With so much bland and watered-down Pinot Grigio flooding the market, Giatl reminds us of Pinot Grigio’s capacity for complexity and elegance. I recently enjoyed a bottle of Giatl with friends and remembered that I met Peter Zemmer in 2017 when I was in Italy for the Alto Adige Wine Summit. As fate would have it, Peter is actually holding a bottle of his Giatl Pinot Grigio. Look at that smile; he has every reason to be proud of this exceptional wine! 

A Wine That Sparks Memories: Secastilla Garnacha 2010

 

For Proust, a bite of a madeleine cookie triggered a flood of memories. For me, it was a sip of Secastilla Garnacha 2010 that transported me back to a very special day in Spain. Around this time last year, I made my second visit to Somontano, in northeast Spain, to tour Viñas del Vero's majestic Secastilla vineyards. A few nights ago, vivid memories of that trip came flooding back as I sat in my Manhattan living room sipping Secastilla Garnacha.

Secastilla Garnacha 2010 ($39.99)

I could smell the fertile fragrance of Secastilla's rain-drenched air and hear the staccato pitter-patter of raindrops on the roof of the tiny cabin where our group sought refuge. We nourished ourselves with laughter and thin slices of jamón that glistened with luscious threads of fat. I could feel the awkwardly comforting sensation of a stranger's bulky rubber boots on my feet because Secastilla's kind and observant winemaker, José Ferrer, had deemed my soaked sandals ill-suited for a trek in the mucky vineyard and tasked his colleagues with finding me more appropriate footwear. For anyone who doubts that wine can trigger a strong emotional response, they just haven't found their Secastilla: a wine with the power to transport you back in time. 

Award-winning wiinemaker José Ferrer. The 2012 vintage of Secastilla Garnacha was recognized as the best red wine in Spain at the International Wine Challenge.

A visit to Secastilla is not required to appreciate the transcendent beauty and superb quality of this wine. 100% Garnacha sourced from 100-year old-vines, Secastilla 2010 elegantly expresses the unique terroir of this magical valley overlooked by seven ancient castles that are the inspiration for its name. Exceptionally talented winemaker José Ferrer has crafted a wine that lives up to the splendor of these surroundings and conveys a genuine sense of this other-worldly vineyard that soars 700 meters high at the foot of the Pyrenees, embraced by almond and olive groves. Rich yet graceful, 10 months of aging in French oak imbues Secastilla Garnacha 2010 with a tinge of spice but does not overwhelm the rich and vibrant fruit flavors of black cherry with a touch of brambly forest fruits and licorice. A perfect red wine to pair with the heartier flavors of fall, Secastilla 2010 may inspire you to embark on an unforgettable journey to this magical place.  


I don't think I've ever been so happy to be caught in the rain -- the magic of Secastilla! 

Climb Every Mountain, Drink All The Wine: Sip and Soar with the Wines of Alto Adige

Wine with an Alpine view! The Dolomite Mountains are the heart & soul of Alto Adige and the traditional customs of Alpine culture still resonate in modern times. 

Are we still in Italy? Why are so many people speaking German? No, I didn't land in the wrong country, I was in Alto Adige! Also known as Südtirol (South Tyrol), Alto Adige is located in northeast Italy and is bordered by Austria and Switzerland. Part of Austria for more than five centuries, Alto Adige was annexed by Italy after World War I but it has retained a rich Austrian culture and German is spoken by around 70% of inhabitants, followed by Italian and the Romanic language Ladin. Alto Adige may be one of Italy's smallest winegrowing regions but its magical mix of high elevation, brisk Alpine air, and sultry Mediterranean sun are a winning combination for cultivating expressive high-quality grapes and exceptional wines.

The anchor of my visit was the Alto Adige Wine Summit, an in-depth exploration of the region's winemaking legacy, present, and future. 

Renowned for the crisp, pristine, and mineral driven white wines that constitute 60% of its production, Alto Adige produces superb expressions of widely known favorites such as Pinot Grigio and Gewürztraminer and unique local white wines such as Müller Thurgau and Kerner. Reds are dominated by the local favorite Schiava (Vernatsch) and Lagrein but Pinot Noir from Alto Adige is also quite impressive. 

Siblings Ines and Ivan Giovanett are the third generation to work in the family winery - Castelfeder. 

Winemaking in Alto Adige is often a family affair and Castelfeder captures the beauty and power of multi-generations working together. Founded in 1969 by Alfons Giovanett, Castelfeder runs on the passion and expertise of the close-knit Giovanett family: the founder's grandson Ivan is the winemaker, while Ivan's sister Ines and his parents Günther and Alessandra focus on management and marketing.

I arrived at Castelfeder during the harvest and watched as a small team of workers moved at lightening speed to unload and sort grapes that had arrived fresh from the vineyard. 
 

Vernatsch, also known as Schiava, is an indigenous grape that has played a central role in Alto Adige winemaking since the 16th century. Fresh, fruity, and low in tannins, Vernatsch is an unpretentious and easy-going red wine that is fantastic slightly chilled - it is the perfect lighter-bodied red for spring & summer. For an introduction to Vernastch, give Castelfeder "Alte Reben" Schiava a swirl. 

Burgundy isn't the only region in the world to produce elegant and age-worthy Pinot Noir and Castelfeder Burgum Novum Pinot Nero Riserva is a fine example of Alto Adige's prowess with the notoriously tricky grape. Pinot Noir has been grown in Alto Adige since the middle of the 19th century and is beautifully suited to the area's climate and terroir. Only produced in the best vintages, Burgum Novum is a rich, complex, graceful and powerful example of Alto Adige's emphasis on quality and authenticity. 



Wondering what to serve with wines from Alto Adige? Follow the lead of Alessandra Giovanett of Castelfeder and pair these food-friendly wines with a platter of Speck. A ham that is indigenous to the Alto Adige region, Speck is lightly smoked and cured in the fresh mountain air. Its appearance may remind you of Prosciutto but the smoking technique adds another layer of flavor to Speck. Served thinly sliced, Speck's combination of subtly smoky meat with a hint of sweetness, slivers of fat that melt in your mouth, and kiss of saltiness; make this delicacy an addictively great match with the wines of Alto Adige. 

The fifth generation of their winemaking family, Karoline and Julia Walch have followed in the footsteps of their mother, Alto Adige pioneer Elena Walch. 

It is not an overstatement to call Elena Walch a pioneer and an icon of winemaking. Her eponymous winery is well-known beyond the soaring slopes of Alto Adige and her commitment to innovation, quality, and authenticity played an important role in elevating the reputation of the region's wines. While visiting Alto Adige, I had the pleasure of meeting Elena's daughters, Karoline and Julia, and the winery's future remains bright with these two smart and talented women at the helm.  

I love the poetic name of the Elena Walch Grande Cuvée "Beyond the Clouds" and the wine lives up to this soaring moniker. A blend of white grapes, mostly Chardonnay, Beyond the Clouds is a richly textured and nuanced white wine that balances the pristine quality of the fruit with a a judicious use of oak. Juicy, creamy, toasty, and tropical flavors meld together beautifully in this rich but balanced white wine. Beyond the Clouds eloquently expresses Alto Adige and has enough structure to age for at least 15 years. 

Indigenous to Alto Adige, Lagrein is one of the region's leading red varieties and produces robust, complex, and powerful wines. Elena Walch Lagrein Riserva Vigna "Castel Ringberg" is a single-vineyard beauty that tames some of Lagrein's rougher edges without obscuring its unique qualities. Dark and luscious with kisses of smoke, spice and sweetness, this complex and nuanced expression of Lagrein evolves elegantly in the glass. 

Gerhard Sanin, agricultural engineer at Kellerei (Cantina) Kaltern takes a break from monitoring the harvest to enjoy the fermented fruit of previous labors. His apron is adorned with words of wisdom from Pope Francis - "Without wine, there's no party!"

Around 70% of Alto Adige wine is produced in wineries run by cooperatives and Cantina Kaltern is one of the most impressive. More than a thousand growers are active with Kaltern and most of these grape growers are farming less than one hectare. The cooperative model is a strategic solution that does not limit the cultural and financial benefits of winemaking to families with large private estates. The winery is considered an ambassador for wines produced in the Lake Kaltern area and these "Wines from the Lake" possess an elegant freshness and minerality.


 
I visited one of Kaltern's growers on a day that Gewurztraminer grapes were being harvested and I even tried my hand at harvesting. (I'll stick to drinking and writing, my harvesting skills leave much to be desired!)


Kaltern Schiava grapes -  fresh on the vine and fermented in the glass! 


We took a break from harvesting to enjoy a traditional break of Schiava and cured meats. Refreshing Kaltern Leuchtenberg Kalterersee Classico Superiore is fruity, fresh, and playful. A well-crafted and approachable wine. 



Cantina Valle Isarco (Eisacktaler Kellerei) is another name to look for as you're exploring wines from Alto Adige -  it is another fine example of how many of the region's cooperatives produce quality wines. Dominated by steep mountain slopes, Isarco Valley has an ideal climate (hot summer days and fresh nights at vintage time) and soils (light, gravelly, and mineral-rich) for growing superb white grapes. White wines dominate the cooperative's portfolio and their selection includes varietals that are closely associated with Alto Adige, including Sylvaner, Müller Thurgau, Pinot Bianco, and Kerner. These white wines have very unique flavor profiles but share freshness, minerality, and vibrance as common attributes.


image courtesy of Bad Schörgau

Alto Adige is a great destination for wine lovers and the region's natural beauty makes it a breathtaking escape. This connection to wine, nature, cuisine, and culture come together seamlessly at the serene yet invigorating Bad Schörgau Hotel & Spa. Owned and operated by the Wenter family, the property's roots can be traced back to the 16th century. Located in the Sarentino Valley, it is surrounded by stunning mountain vistas. Guests can rejuvenate themselves with spa treatments and products that incorporate mountain herbs, rest in rustic yet luxurious accommodations, and indulge in gourmet cuisine and fine wines. A true sensory journey! 


At Bad Schörgau's Michelin starred Restaurant Gourmet Alpes, Chef Egon Heiss creatively enhances the traditional flavors of Alto Adige with modern touches. The creative and comprehensive wine list includes smaller local winemakers like Hartmann Doná.



The beauty of wine is that it takes you on a journey, no matter where you are. If a trip to Alto Adige is not in your immediate future, wine is the perfect way to get a sense of this very special part of Italy. Before I set foot on the soil of South Tyrol, I was transported from the heart of Manhattan to Alto Adige with the wines of J. Hofstätter. The Hofstätter family has been crafting wines for four generations and they are one of the largest family-owned wine estates in the region. Over a casual lunch of all-American burgers, vintner Martin Foradori Hofstätter and I shared a selection of his family's quintessentially Alto Adige wines. 


Martin Foradori Hofstätter is rightfully enthusiastic about his family's acclaimed wines! 

The best wines spark conversation, connections, and wonder - the wines of Alto Adige certainly do this and more. You don't have to be a wine expert or know every geeky fact about Lagrein, Schiava, or Kerner to thoroughly enjoy these exceptionally made and delicious wines. Just open the bottle, share, sip, savor, and let yourself be transported to the soaring peaks of Alto Adige. 

To learn more about the wines of Alto Adige, I do encourage you to visit the consortium website. The region has more wonderful winemakers than I could ever include in one article. 

Sicilian Sunshine, Serenades, and the Superb Wines of Donnafugata

A glass of Donnafugata wine with a view of the Saline della Laguna salt pans in western Sicily, on the coast connecting Trapani to Marsala.

Sicily, you win. We were only together for three days but I fell completely in love. Without inhibition, I basked in your soul-warming sunshine, devoured your divine food, and drank every glass of wine offered to me. And so many serenades, everywhere there was music. From a charming Sicilian man crooning Nina Simone to an elegant wine diva's soulful Bossa Nova renditions, my Sicilian soundtrack is forever forged in my memory. Allow me to thank the matchmaker who finally brought me and Sicily together: the legendary winery Donnafugata. 


Donnafugata, the woman in flight, first captivated me in 2016 on a rainy day in New York City when José Rallo enchanted the room with her singing voice and her family's wines. From that moment, I was impressed by the wines of Donnafugata and my desire to visit Sicily was ignited. Celebrated throughout Italy and beyond, Donnafugata is one of Sicily's most iconic wineries. The Rallo family has 160 years of experience in quality wine production but Donnafugata was founded in 1983 by Giacomo Rallo and his wife Gabriella. Sadly, Giacomo passed away in May 2016 but the fifth generation, his children José and Antonio, are carrying on his legacy and leading Donnafugata into the future with passion, talent, and tenacity. The matriarch of the family, Gabriella, creates or inspires the stunning works of art that adorn Donnafugata's labels. 


Siblings Antonio and José Rallo work as a team to lead their family's renowned winery. 

The Rallo siblings are a great team and balance each other beautifully. Vivacious and extroverted, José oversees Donnafugata's management team and communications. She is also a trained vocalist who has performed at prestigious venues around the world and does not hesitate to break into song when she shares a bottle of wine. Antonio is a highly regarded agronomist and head of winemaking. Shy at first, Antonio's spark is ignited and his smile can't be contained when he is in the vineyards or talking about his beloved wines. Respected by his peers, Antonio is also head of the Sicilia DOC wine consortium. 

Donnafugata's Marsala winery was built in 1851 and the impressive underground barrique cellar was built in 2007. Visitors are welcome for tours and tastings, by appointment. 

I arrived at Donnafugata's cellars in Marsala on a warm September evening. Although I had met José once before, and had sipped their wines several times since that first meeting, I found myself a bit nervous. Sicily was the final stop on a whirlwind journey through Italy that included Puglia and Conegliano. Would my first experience in Sicily live up to what my very active imagination had conjured up? Needless to say, my expectations were exceeded in every way.

Visitors to Donnafugata's winery in Marsala are greeted with this quote from Goethe: "Italy without Sicily leaves no image in the soul: here is the key to everything."


image courtesy of Donnafugata. photo by Fabio Gambina

 Donnafugata is truly steeped in Sicilian culture. Even their name is inspired by the famous novel Il Gattopardo (The Leopard) and refers to the story of a queen who found refuge where the company's vineyards are located today. Their 3 historic production facilities in Sicily include the ancient family cellars in Marsala (where bottling and aging take place), 667 acres of vineyards (and 22 acres of olive groves) at Contessa Entellina in the heart of western Sicily, and their Khamma winery on Pantelleria, a stunning volcanic island between Sicily and Africa. They have also recently fulfilled their dream of producing wine in eastern Sicily.


Antonio Rallo was clearly delighted with the grapes being harvested at their Contessa Entellina estate in western Sicily. Donnafugata cultivates 17 varieties of grapes on this beautiful estate of 667 acres, including indigenous grapes like Nero d'Avola and Grillo, and international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. 


Freshly harvested Cabernet Sauvignon grapes at the Contessa Entellina estate. 


The diversity of grapes planted at Contessa Entellina empowers Donnafugata to produce an amazing array of wines - from crisp whites to rich reds. One of their celebrated reds from this region is Tancredi, a full-bodied and elegant blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Nero d'Avola with a kiss of Tannat and other grapes. Luscious flavors of red and dark berries meld seamlessly with hints of Mediterranean herbs, a bit of licorice, and beautifully integrated tannins. Approachable and elegant, Tancredi 2012 ($40) is an attainable luxury. 

Reaching for the stars can be daunting, but a bottle of Mille e una Notte 2012 ($80) is well within reach. The starry skies on its label are inspired by Arabian Nights and the wine within is rich, regal, and romantic. Nero d'Avola, Petit Verdot, Syrah, and other grapes from Contessa Entellina are blended together to create a stunning tapestry of flavors where everything is vibrant and harmonious. Fruity yet savory, powerful yet graceful, spicy yet soft; Mille e una Notte is a winemaking triumph: absolutely Sicilian with global appeal. 

 
José Rallo with Zibibbo grapes and vines on the island of Pantelleria. 

Known as the black pearl of the Mediterranean, I can't get the rugged and dramatic beauty of Pantelleria out of my head. Located between Sicily and Africa, Pantelleria is a volcanic island with a rocky coastline that is only about 31 miles long, but this small jewel is rich in stunning landscapes: soaring black rock peaks, grottos, terraced vineyards, thermal waters, and more. And on a clear day you can see Tunisia!


Donnafugata's Khamma winery on the island of Pantelleria welcomes visitors from June to mid-September. 
image courtesy of Donnafugata, photo credit Anna Pakula

Donnafugata's 168 acres of vineyards on Pantelleria are spread throughout 14 districts with varying microclimates. A very special grape grows in this terrain: the ancient variety known as Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria) and some of the vines are more than 100 years old. Winemaking on Pantelleria is truly a labor of love and a fine example of heroic viticulture. Pantelleria's rough terrain and windy climate require the Zibibbo vines to be trained to a very low bush on small terraces, protected by dry-built lava stone walls. 


Zibibbo two ways: ripe and dry. 


Donnafugata uses dried Zibibbo grapes to make their iconic and award-winning sweet wine Ben Ryé. Each dried grape is meticulously destemmed by hand in a process called Sgrappolatura. 

Ben Ryè Passito di Pantelleria 2015 ($40) captures the essence of the island's terroir and culture. The name Ben Ryé is inspired by the Arabic term "son of the wind" because the wind constantly sweeps around the grape clusters on Pantelleria. The Zibibbo grape is originally from North Africa and its name comes from "Zibibb" - Arabic for dried grape. After harvesting in August, the Zibibbo grapes are dried naturally in the sun and wind for 3-4 weeks to concentrate their sugars and flavors. The dried and destemmed Zibibbo grapes are then added to must produced from fresh grapes that were harvested in September. This alchemy creates something very special. Too often, we dismiss sweet wines but Ben Ryé is an excellent example of a sweet wine with complexity and finesse. Rich flavors of apricot, figs, orange zest, and honey are balanced by  hints of hazelnuts, Mediterranean herbs, and vibrant acidity that imbue Ben Ryé with vigor and structure. A great match with foie gras and blue cheeses, personally I prefer to savor Ben Ryé by itself at the end of a meal. Best served slightly chilled, Ben Ryé's Sicilian spirit will warm your soul. 



Grazie, Antonio and José Rallo! 

I don't presume to be an expert on Sicily after my three-day wine adventure with Donnafugata, but expertise is not the catalyst for love: it is passion. The Rallo's family passion for their legacy, land, and culture make each expertly crafted bottle of Donnafugata a tribute to their beloved Sicily. I'm not sure when I will visit Sicily again but as long as Donnafugata keeps making wine, each sublime sip will bring back memories of Sicilian sunshine and sweet serenades. 

 

This article featured three of Donnafugata's flagship wines but they have an extensive and excellent portfolio - visit their website to learn more. Also, my previous articles about their wines include Donnafugata Wines from Sicily Hit All the High Notes and Get Swept Away to Sicily with the Wines of Donnafugata. 

Warm Your Nights with Winter Whites: Five Fabulous Wines from France, Italy, New Zealand, and South Africa

Rich red wines and chilly winter nights are a match made in heaven but the right glass of white wine can also warm your spirit! From South Africa to New Zealand, here are five fabulous white wines that are always in season. Go ahead and pour yourself a glass of sunshine!  



Famille Hugel Riesling Classic 2014 ($25)
Alsace, France

With more than 370 years of experience, the Hugel Family brings an abundance of know-how and passion to winemaking. Their excellent Riesling Classic is dry but exuberant with crisp minerality and mouthwatering flavors of white peach, green apple, and a touch of citrus. A sip is reminiscent of a tender kiss from someone you adore!



Loveblock Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ($24)
Marlborough, New Zealand

Share the love with this gorgeous bottle of Sauvignon Blanc. Vivacious flavors of tropical fruits and white peach are elegantly supported by solid minerality and flirty acidity. A beautifully crafted wine with plenty of personality. 

Kettmeir Müller-Thurgau 2015 ($22)
Alto Adige, Italy

Fruit and spice - this full-bodied white wine is oh-so-nice. Robust flavors of white peach and hints of nutmeg and mountain herbs make this lovely vino from northern Italy a supremely satisfying sip anytime of year. 



J.J. Vincent Pouilly-Fuissé Cuvée Marie Antoinette 2014 ($29)
Pouilly-Fuissé (southern Burgundy), France

As elegant as the perfect little black dress, this delightful Chardonnay sashays across the palate with crisp minerality, vibrant acidity and fresh flavors of apple, peach, and a kiss of vanilla. Très chic! 

 De Bos Sur Lie Chenin Blanc 2014 ($16)
Wellington, South Africa

Chenin Blanc is a fantastic French varietal and South Africa produces some of the very best. De Bos's medium-bodied Chenin Blanc has tantalizing flavors of peach, pineapple, persimmon, and citrus that are balanced beautifully by a subtle vanilla cream finish. 

 

Sipping Pretty: Luna Nuda Pinot Grigio 2015

This summer my palate has been on an adventure to discover Pinot Grigio that isn't bland, boring, and blah! Mission accomplished - I've been absolutely delighted with a few lovely wines that prove that Pinot Grigio, in the hands of talented and committed winemakers, can elegantly display flavor and finesse. One vino that I really enjoyed is Luna Nuda Pinot Grigio 2015 ($14.99); it is the antithesis of mediocre & mass-produced Pinot Grigio.

Luna Nuda means "naked moon" and is an ode to the mystical energy of the moon's influence on the vineyards. Produced by the 4th generation Giovanett family of Castelfeder Winery from grapes grown on their estate in the mountainous region of Alto Adige in northern Italy, Luna Nuda nakedly expresses the terroir and essence of the grapes. Aromatic with rich notes of green apples and pears, this dry and mineral-driven wine refreshes the palate with crisp flavors of apple, citrus, slate, and a touch of almonds - a beautiful taste of Alto Adige. Pair with moonlit nights, fun-loving friends, and light meals of fish and mild cheeses. Give Luna Nuda a swirl and say arrivederci to boring Pinot Grigio!