Wine With Wanda

Say Olá to Alentejo With the Wines of Casa Relvas

Alexandre Relvas, Chief Winemaker & Co-Owner, Casa Relvas (Alentejo, Portugal)

In 2018, I embarked on my first and only trip to Portugal to visit wineries in Alentejo and it was magical. But after chatting with fifth generation vintner Alexandre Relvas on Instagram Live, I know that my next journey to Alentejo would be incomplete without a visit to Casa Relvas. You can watch our conversation and tasting on IGTV, YouTube, or by clicking the video below. 

During our conversation, Alexandre described Alentejo's rich winemaking history and how wines made in amphora are an integral part of the region's legacy. We tasted two wines that display Casa Relvas's commitment to innovation and tradition: Art.Terra Amphora Red 2020 ($22.99) and Herdade de Sāo Miguel Escolha dos Enólogos 2019 ($22.99). 


As the names indicates, Art.Terra Amphora Red was crafted in amphora. These large clay vessels, called Talhas de Barro in Portuguese, can be traced back to the Romans and have been used for winemaking in Alentejo for more than 2,000 years. A blend of 50% Aragonez, 40% Trincadeira, and 10% Moreto; Art.Terra is bright and fresh with hints of herbs and earth.

Aged in French oak barrels for 9 months, Herdade de Sāo Miguel Escolha dos Enólogos is a blend of 50% Alicante Bouschet, 30% Touriga Franca, and 20% Touriga Nacional. It is a rich and round wine with vibrant fruit, floral, and spice flavors. Not familiar with Portuguese wine grapes? In the video, Alexandre shares wonderful descriptions of each variety and what they contribute to the blend. He also describes how amphora impacts the style of the wine. 

Classic, Cool, Collio: An Italian Wonderland of White Wines

One could spend a lifetime studying Italian wines and only tap the surface of its viticultural treasures. But don’t be intimidated by that abundance. Instead, consider Italian wines an open invitation to an endlessly enjoyable, exciting, and educational tasting experience. Many of Italy’s 20 wine regions have become household names abroad, but don’t overlook the charm and quality of wines being produced in under-exposed areas. From north to south, beautiful Italian wines await you. Collio, with its elegant and expressive white wines, is a region that needs to be on your radar.

Confession: When I was invited to visit Collio a few months ago, I wasn’t entirely sure where it was located. Thank goodness for Google and Italian friends. Located in the northeast of Italy, in the region of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Collio borders Slovenia and once formed part of the Austro-Hungarian empire. Collio is derived from the Italian word for hillsides and the area’s hilly vineyards benefit from the climatic conditions created by its location between the Julian Alps and the Adriatic Sea.

Collio is renowned for white wines, crafted from indigenous and international grapes, with pronounced minerality. In Italy and beyond, they are considered some of the very best. Collio’s wines are the complete antithesis of wimpy and watery white wines. A great deal of the robustness and mineral character of Collio’s white wines can be attributed to their soils. Known as ‘ponca’, this soil is composed of marl clay from the Eocene era and is rich with mineral soils that imbue the wines with incredible texture and nuance.

The indigenous grapes from Collio may unfamiliar but the taste of the wines have universal appeal. These include Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia, and Picolit. These indigenous grapes make outstanding single-varietal wines, and many of them have the potential to age beautifully. White blends, known as Collio Bianco, are also superb expressions of the region’s winemaking prowess.

I’ll defer to the Consorzio Tutela Vini Collio on their official descriptions of the indigenous varieties.

Ribolla Gialla
“This is the most ancient of the indigenous grape varieties, of which signs of centuries-old vines are still found in the micro-zone of Oslavia. The first documents which testify to its presence date back to 1300. It is of a lively straw-yellow color with characteristic hints of green and has a delicate fresh scent of vegetable and almonds. Its flavor is full-bodied and harmonious.”

Friulano
“One of the most famous and renowned wines of the area, which until 2007 was called Tocai Friulano. It is of a straw-yellow color with characteristic hints of green and has a delicate fresh scent of vegetables and almonds. Its flavor is full-bodied and harmonious.”

Malvasia
“The grape has been present for many years in the Collio region, where it has found its ideal habitat. It is characterized by a light straw-yellow color with hints of green and a clear scent that reminds one of exotic fruit and white pepper. To the palate, it is dry yet fresh, lively and full-bodied.”

Picolit
“This is a noble and very rare wine, of a straw-yellow color and more or less intense golden hints, with a pleasant and enthusiastic scent that recalls flowers of the field and acacia honey. The flavor is sweet, ample, and smooth.”

And while it can be heard to generate excitement about ubiquitous varieties like Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon, in Collio these wines express an astounding depth of character. Red wines are also produced in Collio; including Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and the Collio Rosso red blend.

If a trip to Italy is in your future, consider serene and beautiful Collio. Until then, take your palate on a journey and explore white wines from the region. They really are something special. Truly, if you see Collio on the label, give the wine a chance. Across the board, the quality of the wines is generally very impressive.

To assist you in selecting a wine from Collio, I’ve opted to highlight three producers: Gradis' Ciutta, Livon, and Ronco Blanchis. I tasted several wines from each of these producers and their consistence and quality were at a high level. Trust me, if you see their names on the bottle, you are tasting an authentic expression of Collio.

Gradis’ Ciutta

I received a warm welcome in Collio at Gradis’ Ciutta from winemaker/owner Robert Princic and his friendly four-legged friend.

Winemaker and owner of Gradis' Ciutta, Robert Princic’s family has been involved in agriculture in Collio for many generations. Robert can't remember a time when wine wasn't a part of his life -- he says that he was basically born among their vineyards. His wine education truly began working alongside his father Isidoro but Robert also pursued formal education. After graduating from enology school, Robert took over the winery in 1997. Inspired by his family’s ties to the region, Robert selected the name Gradis’ Ciutta, the name of a hilltop hamlet where his grandfather had vineyards. The name is quite fitting because the area was previously known as Monsvini, which is Latin for "the mountain of wine".


Robert’s wines are an excellent example of why Collio is renowned for making some of Italy’s finest white wines. Crisp, pure, and precise, these wines have tremendous complexity, texture, and finesse. Pinot Grigio may be ubiquitous but throughout Collio, and in the wines of Gradis’ Ciutta, you are reminded of Pinot Grigio’s capacity to transmit terroir and personality. Robert also produces superb Friulano, Malvasia, Ribolla Gialla, and more. (And, I must add that Robert's mother, Ivanka, makes the best apple strudel I've ever tasted!) 

Robert, who is also president of the Collio Wine Consorzio, expressed his wish that Collio would become synonymous with high quality white wines and that people will say, “Let’s drink Collio!”  Based on the high quality of wines produced by Robert and his peers, I think wine lovers will be clamoring for Collio more than ever.

Ronco Blanchis

Lorenzo Palla of Ronco Blanchis

Ronco Blanchis pours all of their passion and expertise into producing exclusively white wines from Collio. Purchased 20 years ago by Lorenzo Palla and his father Giancarlo, even the winery’s name is inspired by the land – Ronco means side of the hill and Blanchis means white, as in the color of the wines. Committed to sustainability, Ronco Blanchis uses only solar energy to produce their Friulano, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon, and Collio Bianco blend.

During my visit to Ronco Blanchis, I was particularly captivated by their Friulano. We tasted vintages spanning about a dozen years that beautifully showcased how elegantly Friulano ages. The glass was practically dancing with the medley of flavors – citrus, sage, minerality, salinity, pineapple, almond, and more.  

Livon

 Cousins Matteo and Francesca Livon represent the third-generation of the revered Collio winery, Livon.

Sipping wine on the terrace of Livon’s breathtaking Braide Alte estate, facing the Alps and with Slovenia visible to the right, Collio’s unique geography and history came to life. One of the most established and celebrated producers in the region, Livon’s history spans more than fifty years. And the winery is very much a family affair. Dorino Livon first acquired vineyards in 1964 and today three generations of the family are intimately involved in the winery. (They also make amazing balsamic vinegar!)



My Livon tasting experience included their Manditocai Friulano Collio, a single-vineyard and limited-production wine. We tasted several vintages of Manditocai, including 2006, which was the very first. Manditocai is another excellent example of Friulano’s impressive aging power. The 2006, at thirteen-years-old, revealed beautiful flavors of baked apples, honey, orange blossom, and almonds. 2015 Manditocai, young and juicy, had vibrant flavors of yellow peach and almond.



My time in Collio was nothing less than magical. Yes, the wines and landscapes are breathtaking but there’s also a serenity that this frazzled New Yorker found extremely seductive and comforting. Every person that I met, not just the winemakers, spoke lovingly of their land and Collio’s hold on their hearts.

Matteo Bellotto was my gracious and knowledgable guide through Collio and has written a book about the wines of Friuli Venezia Giulia. He is a poignant example of the character of Collio’s people. Matteo doesn’t just view wine as a product, but as an expression of Collio’s history, spirituality, culture, and respect for Mother Nature. I say amen and let’s raise a glass of Collio wine!

Explore the Beauty of Portuguese Wine with Esporão

image courtesy of Esporão 

Portugal is all the rage but it isn’t cool just because some hipsters have suddenly “discovered” Lisbon’s colorful streets and Alentejo’s wide open spaces. Portugal’s cool quotient spans centuries and their rich wine culture is a big part of its irresistible Iberian appeal. If you find Portuguese wines a bit puzzling, Esporão is a delicious starting point. Founded in 1973 on an estate with a 750-year history, Esporão’s portfolio includes wines crafted from indigenous and international grapes grown at their estates in the Douro Valley and the Alentejo region. A leader in sustainability, Esporão is committed to organic practices and is on track to be 100% organically certified by 2021.

Master Sommelier and Esporão enthusiast Alex LaPratt

I’ve been a fan of Esporão’s wines for several years and even visited their impressive Alentejo estate in 2018. Earlier this summer in Manhattan, my palate revisited those Portuguese memories at a tasting led by Alex LaPratt, Master Sommelier. Inspired by Portugal’s June 10th national holiday, Portugal Day, our celebration was cheekily deemed Esporão Day. But you don’t need to wait for an official holiday to explore these wonderful wines. Esporäo has an incredibly rich portfolio so I recommend trying one of these four fantastic bottles.

Assobio Branco 2018, Douro, $13
You can't go wrong with this flirty and fresh white blend of Viosinho, Verdelho, Rabigato, Gouveio, and Códega do Larinho grapes from the highest and steepest hillside at Quinta dos Murças. The name Assobio refers to the whistling sound made by the wind as it travels through the hilltop vineyards. Perky acidity and minerality add texture to its flavors of fresh lime, passionfruit, and honeydew.

Esporão Reserva Branco 2017, Alentejo, $18
The very first wine produced by Esporão, this rich white wine is a blend of Antão Vaz, Arinto, and Roupeiro. Aged in stainless steel and new French and American oak, its vibrant lemon and grapefruit flavors are revved up by hints of cream and spice. Big and bold but not bulky.  

Quinta dos Murças Minas Tinto 2017, Douro, $25
Minas means spring in Portuguese and this red wine’s name was inspired by the five cool water springs that cool the vineyards. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Francisca, Tinta Roriz, and Tinta Cão grapes that were aged in concrete vats and used French oak casks for 9 months, it is full, ripe, and fresh with a harmonious interplay between flavors of red fruit, slate, and earth.

Esporão Colheita Tinto 2017, Alentejo, $16
Estate grown Aragonez, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Touriga Franca grapes were aged for 6 months in tulip-shaped concrete tanks to craft this silky and juicy red with charming black plum and currant flavors with a kiss of white pepper.  

The Authentic Allure of Alentejo: Portuguese Wines with Heart & History

Blame it on Alentejo. I'm no daredevil but somehow found myself soaring in a hot air balloon, gliding above the Portuguese countryside and hovering a little too long over one of Europe's largest man-made lakes. Invigorating yet serene, retro yet innovative, that sky-high adventure encapsulates the feeling of my entire Alentejo experience.

Hugo Domingos, hot air balloon pilot and proprietor of Emotion Portugal, made my first ever balloon ride one to remember. 

Once safely on the ground, our capable and charming pilot celebrated the moment by popping the cork on a bottle of local wine. (Speaking of cork, Alentejo is home to about one-third of the world's cork tree forests.) Whether toasting an adventure or simply enjoying a meal with family and friends, wine is an integral part of life in Alentejo. 
 

A treasure trove for wine lovers and those seeking the bucolic beauty of wide-open country spaces where people are outnumbered by cork trees, sheep, and possibly pigs; the Alentejo region is just a 90-minute drive inland from the capital of Lisbon. Alentejo means Beyond the Tejo because it is located south of the Tejo River that cuts across Portugal.

António Rocha is preserving the ancient art of hand crafting the large clay vessels that are an integral part of Alentejo's winemaking heritage. A single Talha de Barro (amphora) can be as large as seven feet in height, hold up to 520 gallons of wine, and weigh 2,000 pounds! Outside of the nation of Georgia, Alentejo is the only place in the world where this ancient method of winemaking has never ceased. It co-exists in Alentejo alongside more modern winemaking techniques.  

Formerly part of a Roman province called Lusitania, Alentejo is the only region in Portugal that still practices the Roman technique of making & storing wines in large clay vessels known as amphorae (Talhas de Barro in Portuguese). Passionate about tradition but open to innovation, Alentejo's winemakers create authentic and appealing wines from indigenous and international grapes. 

image courtesy of Wines of Alentejo

With more than 250 indigenous grape varieties, Portugal has the highest density of native grapes per square mile of any country in the world. For those of us that don't speak Portuguese, the names may be a bit tricky but the rich and expressive flavors have universal appeal. The key red wine grapes cultivated in Alentejo include Alicante Bouschet, Castelão, Touriga Nacional, and Trincadeira. White wines represent only one-fifth of Alentejo's production but grapes like Antão Vaz and Arinto create wonderfully expressive wines. Visit the Wines of Alentejo website to learn more about the unique qualities and flavor profiles of each grape. 

image courtesy of Wines of Alentejo

Wines from Portugal are becoming increasingly popular abroad and Alentejo in particular is gaining acclaim for well-crafted and accessibly priced wines. Alentejo's mix of ancient and modern winemaking techniques, commitment to sustainability, and unique grape varieties make it hard to resist. It is also an increasingly popular, but not overwhelmed, tourist destination with a well-defined wine route. If a trip to Alentejo is not in your immediate future, take your tastebuds on a journey with their wonderful wines. Start your Alentejo winetasting adventure with wines from two of the region's best known wineries: Herdade do Rocim and Herdade do Esporão. 

Herdade do Rocim 


The words of Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa inspire the winemaking team at Herdade do Rocim: "God wishes, Man dreams, the Work is born." Located in the Lower Alentejo, Herdade do Rocim is committed to crafting wines that respect the nature and culture of their region. A modern winery that blends harmoniously with the landscape, Herdade do Rocim embraces modern techniques but also pays homage to tradition and their portfolio includes wines produced in the traditional clay amphorae. 

Winemaker Vânia Guibarra José is a key member of the Herdade do Rocim winemaking team which is led by Pedro Ribeiro. 

During my visit to Herdade do Rocim, I had the pleasure of tasting wine with a key member of their winemaking team, Vânia Guibarra José. Vânia's family initially discouraged her because "they thought winemaking was for men" and they wanted her to be a doctor. Thankfully, Vânia pursued her passion and is now one of several talented and respected women winemakers that I met in Alentejo.



Herdade do Rocim Mariana Rosé 2017 ($11.99) is a charming blend of Touriga Nacional and Aragonez. Although named after a nun whose clandestine love affair led to a dramatically broken heart, Mariana is actually a very joyful wine. Provence pale, it has lively red fruit flavors, a silky texture, and vibrant acidity. If one had to select a national grape to represent Portugal, Touriga Nacional would certainly lead the pack. According to Wines of Alentejo, Touriga Nacional's "thick skin helps to obtain deep, dense colour - one of the variety's distinctive traits - but it is the abundance and depth of aromas that best identify its value. These may be floral, or fruity, or citrus but they are always intense and explosive, with an urbane, noble air." Aragonez is an absolutely Iberian grape and is known as Tempranillo in Spain. Generally a grape with low acidity, Aragonez is often blended with other varieties. 



A bottle of Herdade do Rocim Amphora Vinho Branco 2016 ($18) contains more than wine; it represents thousands of years of winemaking tradition because it was produced in the ancient style using the Talhas de Barro - large clay amphora. This blend of Antão Vaz, Perrum, Rabo de Ovelha, and Manteúdo was also fermented using indigenous yeasts. This minimally invasive winemaking technique produces wine with a unique texture and flavor profile. An appealing tapestry of mineral, flint, and nutty flavors. Herdade do Rocim also produces a red Amphora wine. 

Herdade do Rocim Vinho Regional Alentejano Touriga Nacional 2016 ($16) is a wonderful chance to sip Portugal's signature grape in a single varietal wine. A rich and supple wine with gorgeous flavors of violets, brambly blackberries, spice, and well-integrated tannins. 

Herdade do Esporão

Chances are that if you're already a fan of wines from Alentejo, you've sipped a vinho from Esporão - they are one of the region's most widely known and respected brands. Wine was first produced under the Esporão name in 1985 but the estate has a rich history -- its boundaries were first established in 1267 and have been unaltered since then. The site of many battles and intrigues during the Middle Ages, life is certainly less dangerous at Esporão these days and visitors can enjoy tastings, meals, carriage ride tours, and more. 


Herdade de Esporâo Reserva 2015 blends an all-star lineup of grapes: Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez, Trincadeira, and Cabernet Sauvignon. I first tasted the 2014 vintage ($24) of this wine and was blown away by its character and balance. The 2015 is just as captivating. Voluptuous but not unwieldy, it has rich dark berry flavors with savory hints of spice and herbs. 

Another captivating blend from Esporão is their Monte Velho 2017 ($10). A blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional, and Syrah, it is fresh and forthright with juicy berry flavors and a kiss of spice. 

Where to Wine, Dine and Relax in Alentejo

If you're looking for an off-the beaten-path place to vacation with wonderful food, wine, scenery and friendly people; Alentejo should be on your list. 



Stay: Country chic is no cliché at Herdade da Malhadinha Nova. A vast estate of vineyards and olive groves, at Malhadinha Nova nature and modern life co-exist harmoniously; cattle and Alentejo's famous black pigs roam the land while human guests unwind in simple luxury. 


Malhadinha Nova winemaker Nuno Gonzalez said that he is "trying to make the best wine possible, every year." Their vineyards are planted with the signature varieties of Alentejo in addition to international varieties.  


Malhadinha Nova resident chef Bruno Antunes prepares meals with ingredients that are primarily sourced from the estate, including their own olive oil and pork from the famous Black Pigs of Alentejo. Chef Antunes works closely with Michelin-starred consulting chef Joachim Koerper. 

Farm to table is a reality for meals at Malhadinha's restaurant and the cuisine is paired perfectly with their wines. The restaurant is actually located in the cellar building, which emphasizes the strong connection between food and wine. 


image courtesy of Herdade da Malhadinha Nova

The beautifully appointed and spacious rooms at Herdade da Malhadinha Nova are located in a traditional rural house that melds comfort with upscale elegance, including luxurious Bvlgari amenities in the bathroom and a combination of artisan and designer furnishings and fixtures. 


Temple of Diana, Roman ruins in Évora. 

Wine, Dine, Explore: The historic center of Évora, capital city of the Alentejo province, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With a history that dates back to Roman times, in the 15th century Évora was the residence of the Portuguese kings. 


One of Évora's many quaint streets lined with whitewashed buildings. As you wander, you'll also see beautiful wrought-iron balconies and the famous azulejos (tiles). 

Évora is extremely walkable and chock-full of charm and historic landmarks, including the Temple of Diana and the exquisite Royal Church of St. Francis and it's macabre, yet moving, Chapel of Bones. 


Manuel and his wife Carolina own the cozy culinary treasure, Tasquinha do Oliveira restaurant in Èvora. I was amazed at the quantity and excellent quality of the dishes that Carolina creates. She was hard at work in the kitchen when I snapped this photo of charming Manuel! 

After your stroll around Évora, try to snag a table at Tasquinha do Oliveira.  A tiny jewel box of a restaurant, with about 14 seats, it feels like you're in your favorite uncle and aunt's living room. Better yet, make a reservation before you fly to Portugal  - it is one of the most in-demand restaurants in Évora. Manuel manages the guests and Carolina handles the homestyle cooking which is a seemingly never-ending smorgasbord of traditional Alentejo cuisine and family recipes. The offerings include the beloved Bacalhau (salted cod fish), rabbit, the famous Black Pig, and many vegetable dishes. A signature of Alentejo cuisine is that many dishes are seasoned with coriander and vinegar. 



For a more modern dining experience, visit Cartuxa Enoteca. The menu showcases innovative interpretations of classic dishes and their winery's portfolio. Cartuxa has a very rich history in Alentejo, it is owned by a foundation that is very committed to the cultural, educational, and spiritual well-being of Èvora. The winery is located in the dining room of a former Jesuit house and offers tours and tastings.


Chef José Júlio Vintem, in action at Säo Lourenço do Borracal, is passionate about preserving the culinary traditions of Alentejo. 

Back in the countryside, Säo Lourenço do Borracal is a beautifully restored estate that has been in the same family for 200 years. In addition to producing their own wine, the estate has a large organic garden, cattle, and olive groves. The guest rooms include suites and cottages.


Chef Vintem with estate owner José António Uva - the 8th generation of his family to live at São Lourenço do Barrocal. 

Chef Vintem is one of Alentejo's most celebrated culinary stars and in the early mornings he can often be found foraging for herbs and mushrooms. He magically transforms the estate's abundant resources into flavorful and authentic cuisine. 



The best wine trips are never just about the wine but discovering how this revered beverage fits into the fabric of a culture. In Alentejo, wine has been produced since time immemorial and is respected and treasured. It is a part of the rhythm of life, from the city to the countryside. Alentejo's endless hectares of old-vine vineyards show the intimate relationship between humans and nature. From toil and tenacity, grapes are cultivated and transformed via science, intuition, and artistry into wine. Whether it is produced in the ancient style in a clay amphora or crafted using all the tools that modern technology has to offer, Alentejo winemakers are committed to making their wines, their way. The Alentejo way where tradition and innovation happily co-exist. Where indigenous varieties like Touriga Nacional are nurtured but international varieties are not excluded. Where the wines are an essential companion to their cuisine. 


Black dress, red wine. In the wine cellar at Malhadinha Nova. 

My visit to Alentejo reminded me that when you open a bottle of authentically made wine, that you are tapping into the life pulse of a culture. This was my first trip to Portugal. I don't speak the language and at times felt embarrassed at how little I knew about their history. But I was made to feel welcome. Whether soaring in the sky or strolling in the vineyards, Alentejo wraps itself around you, pours you a glass of wine, and welcomes you wholeheartedly. I don't pretend to be an expert on Alentejo but my life and wine education have certainly been enriched by the days I spent there. Until I can return, memories of Alentejo are only a sip away.