Devis Romanelli's family has been making wine in the hills of Montefalco for three generations. Like many Montefalco wine estates, Romanelli also produces olive oil.
Now is the perfect time to start planning your wine-centric adventures for 2023. If you’re looking for authentic wines, warm people, and a stunning natural landscape, Montefalco delivers all that and more. Montefalco is in Umbria, known as the “Green Heart of Italy” because of its verdant green landscape. And the tiny hilltop town of Montefalco, with a population of around 6,000 people, could very well be considered the wine heart of Umbria: It’s a small town that has significantly impacted the Italian wine scene.The view from Tabarrini Winery.
I’ve traveled to Italy countless times, yet Umbria had always evaded me until I visited Montefalco in the Spring of 2022 to attend a preview of the region’s wines hosted by the Montefalco Wine Consortium. Montefalco has a rich winemaking history that spans centuries, but it’s only in recent decades that the area started garnering serious attention and acclaim for its red wine, Sagrantino. Indigenous to Montefalco, the grape reaches its highest expression in its hills and calcareous clay soils. Montefalco Sagrantino was granted DOCG status in 1992.
Sagrantino is a powerful, tannic, and complex grape, and regulations require that Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG contain 100% of the grape. During my visit to Montefalco, many producers expressed their desire to create red wines that are more approachable but still authentic.
The Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG wines I enjoyed most still displayed power but weren’t clunky, aggressive, or too oaky. The essence of the grape came through in the glass -- flavors of black plum, black cherry, licorice, earth, and black pepper. By nature, the Sagrantino grape is extremely tannic; but Montefalco’s producers have found ways to manage the tannins. For example, picking riper grapes and aging the wines in used oak can mitigate tannins. But because of its impressive structure, Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG is a wine that ages like a dream. Even the more approachable expressions really start to sing in the glass 10, 15, and 20+ years later.While waiting for your Montefalco Sagrantino to age, give Montefalco Rosso DOC a swirl. Mostly Sangiovese with 10-25% Sagrantino, the result is an approachable red wine with structure, freshness, and softer tannins.
Montefalco’s red wines are quite special, but the white wines, especially Trebbiano Spoletino, are also a revelation. This white grape is native to Umbria and produces wines with texture, finesse, and aging potential. And Montefalco Bianco DOC wines blend a minimum of 50% Trebbiano Spoletino with other white varieties.
Fresh and bright Montefalco Grechetto DOC is a flirty and refreshing everyday sip.
Are you ready for an adventure in Montefalco? Even if your travels don’t take you to Umbria, I encourage you to try wines from the 12 producers listed below. Cheers!
Arnaldo Caprai
Ten years ago, I was invited to a tasting in NYC to celebrate Arnaldo Caprai being honored as European Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast. On that day, I met winemaker Marco Caprai and tasted Sagrantino for the first time. Arnaldo Caprai, Marco’s father, founded his eponymous winery in 1971 and Marco assumed leadership in 1988. Marco embarked on a mission to create Sagrantino wines of exceptional quality. To say Marco succeeded is an understatement; he is widely credited for proving to a global audience that Sagrantino from Montefalco deserved to be recognized as one of Italy’s top-tier wines. Marco’s success generated interest and acclaim for other winemakers in Montefalco.
Tabarrini
Meet the vivacious and poetic innovator of Montefalco -- winemaker Giampaolo Tabarrini. During my recent visit to his beautiful winery, Giampaolo said I could select any bottle from the cellar to pair with our lunch. I chose a wine that I absolutely adore, Tabarrini “Adarmando” Trebbiano Spoletino. Giampaolo advised me to pick a vintage that reflected a special time in my life, so I picked 2010 -- the year I first started writing about wine. Full of life and energy at 12-years-old, Adarmando 2010 showed no signs of slowing down; it was textured, generous, and multi-dimensional. Just like Giampaolo.
Scacciadiavoli
Founded in 1884, Scacciadiavoli is one of the oldest properties in Montefalco. It was a pleasure to tour the old, but very efficient cellars with fourth-generation vintner Liù Pambuffetti. The original cellars may not be shiny and new but they are full of soul. The name Scacciadiavoli means banish the devils and refers to an episode of exorcism in the 14th century when a young woman who was possessed by the devil was liberated by drinking some local red wine. In addition to the core wines of the region, Scacciadiavoli also produces world-class traditional method sparkling wines.
And a special thank you to Chef Giulio Gigli of Ristorante UNE for the delicious and creative small bites that accompanied the Scacciadiavoli wines.
Alessandro Lunelli and winemaker Luca Capaldini
Simultaneously futuristic and organic, Tenuta Castelbuono makes heads turn. Did aliens build this winery in Umbria or did it hatch from the earth? Proprietor Alessandro Lunelli solved the mystery: Acclaimed contemporary artist Arnaldo Pomodoro designed this unique structure, known as the “Carapace” (turtle shell), to blur the lines between architecture and sculpture.
Alessandro described the Carapace as a sculpture that people can enter. And upon entering, visitors can enjoy some solid wines. If the name Lunelli sounds familiar, it’s because their award-winning Ferrari wines are the pillars of Trentodoc, the traditional method sparkling wine from Trento, in the north of Italy. Intrigued by the quality of Sagrantino wines coming out of Montefalco, in 2001 the Lunelli family purchased Tenuta Castelbuono. A few years later, they committed to building a new winery to match their vision for crafting elegant and high-quality wines.
Meet the dynamic duo of Nicola and Lorenzo Mattoni from Cantina Terre de Trinci! These charming and hardworking brothers are pouring their heart, soul, and expertise into making wines that authentically express the terroir and culture of Umbria. Nicola (on the left) is the winemaker and Lorenzo (right) handles marketing and exports. We often talk about the aging potential of Sagrantino and Terre de Trinci proved it by pouring an exceptional 1998 Sagrantino – it was full of energy and layers of flavor.
Filippo Antonelli
image courtesy of Antonelli
Talk about a rich history -- this expansive estate, of 430 acres, is mentioned in several medieval documents and has been in the Antonelli family since 1881. Visitors can enjoy wine tastings, overnight stays in a restored antique farmhouse, and cooking classes.
Chiara (left) and Teresa Lungarotti (right) with their mother Maria Grazia.
image courtesy of Lungarotti
Considered one of Umbria's premier wineries, Lungarotti was founded by Giorgio Lungarotti in the 1960s. Today, his daughters Chiara (CEO) and Teresa (enologist) lead the company.
La VenerandaWith Roberto from La Veneranda.
This small family-owned winery is one of the hidden treasures of the region and has deep roots in Montefalco; they’ve been cultivating land in the region since 1568.
image courtesy of Romanelli
Three generations of the Romanelli family live and work together to produce wine and olive oil at their picture-perfect hilltop estate in the heart of Montefalco. They also have a wine shop in the historic town center.
Benedetti & Grigi winemaker Matteo Basili
One of the newer wineries in Montefalco, Benedetti & Grigi produced their first vintage in 2014.
Sandra and Danilo Antonelli make terroir-driven wines at their family's small farm in Montefalco.
Terre di San Felice
On my last day in Montefalco, I spent a sweet morning at Terre di San Felice. I’ll never forget sitting in the backyard of the farmhouse and sharing wine and laughter with Carlo Mancini and his cousin who reminded me a bit of Robert DeNiro! I felt like I was visiting long lost family. Such a special moment. Lovely wines made from the heart.
Where to Stay
image courtesy of La Rocca Guest House & Spa
Just a three-minute walk from Montefalco's main square, Piazza del Comune, this charming and comfortable guest house is owned by a Roman who left city life behind for Umbria's rustic appeal. Spacious rooms, gorgeous views of the countryside, and delicious breakfast.
On my balcony at La Rocca Guest House
Where to Dine
Ristorante Locanda del Teatro Montefalco
Located just down the street from La Rocca Guest House, this elegant restaurant has it all: beautiful ambiance, attentive service, great wine list, and innovative interpretations of local cuisine. We liked it so much, we ate there twice!
image courtesy of Enoteca di Benozzo
Located on the Piazza del Comune, this is a great spot for soaking in the local scene and enjoying local cheeses, salumi, and wines.
