Michel Rolland - the original flying winemaker and founder of Clos de Los Siete.
image courtesy of Clos de Los Siete
Few people can take credit for creating an entirely new career category, but Michel Rolland is the original flying winemaker. Crisscrossing continents and oceans, this Bordeaux-born enologist has worked with more than 150 wineries around the globe. This year marks Rolland's 50th harvest.
Rolland was instantly captivated when he traveled to Argentina for the first time in 1988. Recognizing it as "a beautiful place to make wine," he searched for the perfect spot to launch his own wine project. It took impressive patience, but Rolland didn't give up. Finally, in 1999, Rolland located a premier location at the foot of the Andes Mountains in the Uco Valley, sixty miles south of Mendoza. He partnered with six other French families and formed Clos de Los Siete -- The Vineyard of Seven. 2002 was the first vintage of this Malbec-driven blend.
I recently tasted the 2019 vintage of Clos de Los Siete with Rolland when he was in New York for a whirlwind visit. But Monsieur Rolland upped the ante. Not only was it a blind tasting of six vintages, but the wines also were not served in chronological order. Attendees were provided with descriptions of each vintage, and we had to guess which vintage was in each glass. Really, no pressure at all! And did I mention that I was seated next to Rolland? A little voice inside my head kept saying, "Wanda, don't mess this up!"
Why present the wines in this way? "Consistency is our goal," said Rolland. He added, "it makes me happy that it's very difficult to know which is the oldest or youngest."
Rolland wasn't kidding; it was very challenging to identify which of the six wines matched the specific vintages: 2019, 2018, 2017, 2015, 2010, and 2009. How is that possible? There are usually some telltale traits that red wines develop as they age. For example, the color often fades, and the fruit flavors give way to more savory and tertiary flavors. But even in the oldest vintage presented in the tasting, 2009, the changes in the wine were very subtle: the color was deep and bright, and the fruit was fresh and rich.
image courtesy of Clos de Los Siete
How does Clos de Los Siete do this? Terroir is an integral piece of the puzzle. The climate, altitude, sunlight, water, and soil of the Andes have a tremendous impact on the grapes. For example, the temperature swings of the high-altitude location allow the grapes to ripen slowly with great concentration. The vines are irrigated with pure melted snow from the Andes. And the soil composition of sand, gravel, and clay provides excellent drainage, which encourages the growth of quality grapes.
Malbec is the grape that put Mendoza on the map and is always the dominant grape in Clos de Los Siete. And although the exact varietal composition varies each year, the wine is usually a blend of Malbec, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot.
image courtesy of Clos de Los Siete
"I am a blender. I am from Bordeaux," said Rolland. He applies that blending know-how to Clos de Los Siete. Since it is not a single-varietal wine, the blend is fine-tuned each year to achieve that desired consistency from one vintage to the next.
Four of the seven original families who founded Clos de Los Siete remain involved in the project. Their wineries, Monteviejo, Cuvelier Los Andes, DiamAndes, and Bodega Rolland, each contribute grapes from their plots for the wine. Each year, each winery creates its own blend, and Rolland is the puzzle master that puts them all together. He tastes and selects the components that will form the final Clos de Los Siete blend. "My goal every year is to make a great wine," said Rolland.
The tasting notes provided for the blind tasting described 2019 Clos de Los Siete ($21) as "Another great vintage in the Uco Valley." It is rich and juicy with hints of spice and impressive freshness for such a robust wine. It certainly achieved Rolland's goal of making a wine that is "easy to approach," can be paired with food and enjoyed any time of the day.
And perhaps you're wondering how I did in the blind tasting. Well, in a room of wine professionals, no one identified more than one vintage of Clos de Los Siete correctly. I identified 2010, which the tasting notes described as a "warm and drier vintage."
One out of six isn't going to win me any awards, but it was an invigorating exercise. I loved using the clues and my senses to figure out the puzzle.
Monsieur Rolland made us all feel better when he chuckled and said that even he finds this tasting difficult -- and he makes the wine! A small price to pay for consistency!
Throughout his career, Rolland has partnered in producing many of the world's most acclaimed wines -- and those often bear a price tag that makes them unattainable for many people. I was delighted to see he applies that same precision and passion to the affordable and widely available Clos de Los Siete so that quality wine is within reach for everyone. Cheers!
