Following in the footsteps of a legend might rattle some people, but Champagne Piper-Heidsieck's "newish" chief winemaker, Émilien Boutillat, is already laying the foundation for his own icon status.
Émilien's predecessor, Régis Camus, looms large over the Piper-Heidsieck legacy; he held the position for nearly three decades and was named Sparkling Winemaker of the Year a record eight times at the International Wine Challenge. Émilien was appointed chief winemaker in 2018 and is already poised to have a similar winning streak in the future; in 2021, he was honored as Sparkling Winemaker of the Year. At 35 years old, Émilien is the youngest chief winemaker in the history of Piper-Heidsieck. He has many decades ahead of him to make his mark.
A native of Champagne, born into a family of winegrowers, Émilien's passion for the world of wine started at a young age. In addition to the knowledge garnered from previous generations, he studied viticulture, enology, and agricultural engineering at the university level.
I recently had the pleasure of reconnecting with Émilien on his recent visit to New York City. Like many of us, Émilien is happy to be traveling the world again after more than two years of social distancing. And when Émilien shows up, he brings beautiful wines, charm, and good humor. He mentioned that improvisational theater is one of his hobbies. Émilien's ease at being bombarded by a trio of NYC wine writers with a never-ending stream of questions reflected his talent for thinking on his feet.
Founded in 1785, Piper-Heidsieck certainly needs no introduction among Champagne lovers. Their crisp and elegant Cuvée Brut NV ($66) is the House’s signature bubbly, known around the world for its consistent quality.
A blend of Pinot Noir (50-55%), Meunier (30-35%), and Chardonnay (15-20%), the grapes represent 100 crus from across Champagne. It is aged on the lees for a minimum of 24 months. Round and crisp with bright flavors of apple, pear, white peach, and that sultry touch of toasted bread, Cuvée Brut is a crowd pleaser that always adds a dash of ooh la la to the moment.
Cuvée Brut is Piper-Heidsieck's signature bubbly, but Essentiel ($70) shows how the House pushes forward with new expressions of Champagne. Pinot Noir (45%) also dominates this blend and is combined with Meunier (36%) and Chardonnay (19%). But, in addition to the slightly different percentages of each grape in the blend, Essentiel distinguishes itself from Cuvée Brut in some fundamental ways. The grape selection is limited to 50 crus instead of 100. It was aged about a year longer on the lees, for a minimum of 36 months, instead of 24. And it is crafted in an Extra-Brut style. Ripe and full, the slightly drier style of Champagne is still impressively rich with luscious flavors of plum, poached pear, and a kiss of honey mingled with brioche. This bubbly has the weight needed to pair with roast chicken, fish, and pork but still has impressive energy and verve.
Piper-Heidsieck Brut 2014 ($97) is a compelling snapshot of the vintage. 2014 was marked by a cool and rainy summer, but September sunshine provided the warm and dry conditions needed for the grapes to achieve a balance of ripeness and freshness. A blend of Pinot Noir (55%) and Chardonnay (45%), the grapes represent 19 crus, including 87% Grands and Premiers Crus. Aged on the lees a minimum of 5 years, 2014 emerges from the bottle sultry and bold, ready to steal the show. Pops of ginger, licorice, and toast bring an energetic and savory touch to the rich and ripe fruit. It is a fine example of a gastronomic style of Champagne that can pair beautifully with rich foods. Its crisp acidity makes it an especially good match with creamy foods. If you're looking for an inspired high-low pairing, try 2014 with lobster mac & cheese: Émilien was dubious initially, but this combination wowed him during our dinner.
I look forward to following Émilien's career as a winemaker; his blend of enthusiasm, deep roots in Champagne, technical know-how, and vision for the future point toward an impressive tenure at Piper-Heidsieck. “Sustainability is a key pillar today and for the future. In the vineyard and beyond. It's good for the planet and good for the people", said Emilien.
Don't worry, darlings; Piper-Heidsieck is in excellent hands.
