Michele Bernetti, Owner & CEO, Umani Ronchi
With his passionate commitment to maintaining his family's winemaking legacy, it's hard to believe that Michele Bernetti ever had any doubts about joining the family business. But after graduating from university with a degree in economics, it was a firm but loving letter from his father Massimo that convinced Michele that his future was at Umani Ronchi. Based on his enthusiasm and energy, I feel confident in stating that Michele has no regrets. It's been several months since I met Michele, and I can't help but smile as I remember his down-to-earth nature and fantastic wines.
Umani Ronchi's vineyards in Castelli di Jesi
Focused on crafting quality wines that are authentic expressions of the Marche and Abruzzo regions of Italy, since 1959 the Bianchi-Bernetti family has been meticulous in their approach to making the very best wines from the area's Montepulciano and Verdicchio grapes. Umani Ronchi has expanded significantly over the years and spans 520 acres spread between the hills and the sea along the Adriatic coast. That expansion has also inspired their interest in other varieties, including the charming Pecorino. Umani Ronchi's growth has been a very thoughtful and precise process, and they are committed to sustainable viticulture and organic farming of their vineyards.
Who knows when I'll make it to Marche or Abruzzo, but Umani Ronchi's elegant and expressive wines make my travel daydreams so much lovelier. Grab a glass and let their wines take you away!
Umani Ronchi Centovie Pecorino 2017 Colli Aprutino IGT ($31.99)
Don't let the name confuse you: this wine may share the same name as the delicious Italian cheese, but it contains 100% Pecorino grapes. Some say that sheep, pecora in Italian, liked to snack on these sweet grapes, and they inspired the name. This expression of Pecorino hails from the Abruzzo region. Michele explained to me that they like to "keep the nature of the grape," so the hand-picked Pecorino grapes were fermented in stainless steel and then aged in stainless steel and neutral large oak casks. Citrusy, zippy, crisp, juicy, and fresh, this dry but fruity white wine with its sassy hint of salinity is a fantastic summer sip.
Umani Ronchi Casal di Serra Vecchie Vigne 2017, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC Classico Superiore ($37.99)
Vecchie Vigne means old vines, and these Verdicchio vines from Marche were planted in the 1970s. I wish people would drink more Verdicchio. Robust, nuanced, and age-worthy, Verdicchio is one of Italy's great white wines. Michele described this wine as having "more weight and shoulders." Aged on the lees for ten months and six months in bottle before release, it is crisp and dry with a beautiful mineral texture and flavors of white peach, citrus, pear, and a hint of salinity.
Umani Ronchi Cúmaro 2015 Cónero Riserva DOCG ($40.99)
In a world awash with mediocre Montepulciano, Cúmaro is a delicious reminder of how delightful and nuanced it can be. Aged for 12-14 months in small oak barrels and at least 6-8 months in bottle, it has captivating aromas and flavors of ripe plum, blackcurrant, and black cherry with spicy kisses of black pepper and a touch of vanilla.
Umani Ronchi Pelago 2015 Marche Rosso IGT ($55.99)
Pelago entered the wine world in a very dramatic fashion. A collaboration with the late acclaimed Italian oenologist Giacomo Tachis, in 1997, Pelago won the Best Red Wine Trophy at the International Wine Challenge -- that was the very first year of its production! With that stunning debut, Pelago instantly became one of the most sought after Italian wines in the world. A blend of Montepulciano (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), and Merlot (10%); it respects the essence of the native Montepulciano while melding harmoniously with the international varieties. Inspired by pelagos, which is Ancient Greek for the sea, Pelago is a luscious and rich red wine. Pelago certainly has a sultry marine quality that lifts the wine's bold black fruit and spice aromas and flavors. Gorgeous vino!
Visit the Umani Ronchi website to learn more about their history, winemaking philosophy, and full portfolio of wines. And although travel abroad remains challenging, keep Umani Ronchi in mind for your future trip to Italy. In addition to wine tastings and tours, they offer elegant accommodation options.
PS - In the weeks leading up to the COVID-19 shutdown, I sensed an uneasiness in the NYC air. Even as I zipped around Manhattan attending the customary non-stop whirlwind of wine tastings, I knew the clock was ticking. News headlines from around the globe made it clear that it was only a matter of time before the Coronavirus would announce its presence in the Big Apple. On March 15th, NYC officially went into lockdown, and now, after more than three trying months, we are entering Phase 2 of our reopening. I know that I’m not alone in feeling that the past few months have been an emotional roller coaster. We’re still on the ride, but it’s less bumpy now.
As we approach the future with cautious optimism, I find myself wanting to move forward with a blank slate yet still honor the stories that I could not muster the energy to write as I worried about COVID-19’s impact on our world. The truth is, I’ll never be able to catch up completely, and I realize that the stories I write now can’t be the same as they would have been before COVID-19. The world is different. I’m different. So, as I ease back into this new life, I’ve decided to feature brief profiles of some of the wonderful winemakers that I met with before everything changed. I hope these short but sweet stories will inspire you to support them and to continue exploring the world through wine.