“It’s not about having an amazing vintage but making amazing wine despite the vintage.”
Katie Madigan
Watching winemaker Katie Madigan swirl her gleaming glass of 2017 St. Francis Chardonnay in a dark Manhattan steakhouse, it's hard to imagine the obstacles that were overcome to produce that joyous glass of wine.
Even before the fires that swept through Sonoma in 2017, Katie recalls that it was shaping up to be an extremely difficult harvest because of heat spikes late in the season that revved up ripening. Although, all of the Chardonnay grapes were picked prior to the fires, St. Francis did lose power. Sneaking into the winery, Katie and her team discovered that the grapes had started fermenting because of the loss of temperature control in the tanks. “I feel like this wine kind of made itself,” laughed Katie.
Not easily discouraged by circumstances beyond her control, Katie said, “I respect difficult vintages. They teach you a lot. They teach you what you can handle.” Katie's career has made it clear that she doesn't shy away from a challenge. She joined St. Francis in 2002 as an intern and became a winemaker in 2011. She inherited her love of Chardonnay from her mom, who likes to sip it while she's cooking!
Katie believes that Chardonnay should be fresh and the 2017 meets that ideal. With crisp citrus and apple flavors with a touch of butterscotch and cream, it has great brightness and minerality. She was so impressed by the quality of the 2017 Chardonnay, Katie is figuring out ways to mimic the conditions that nurtured its creation – minus the fires, of course. Very food-friendly, this Chardonnay pairs beautifully with sea food and poultry. A great buy at around $17!
St. Francis is also known for their portfolio of red wines. I’m particularly fond of their Zinfandel, which accounts for 1/3 of their production. The Zins may not have the dramatic backstory of the 2017 Chardonnay but these powerful reds certainly tell a story.
St. Francis Old Vines Zinfandel 2016, Sonoma County ($22)
Crafted from vines at least 50 years old, and many as old as 100, Katie said this wine is meant to allure you with the aromas and not too much oak. Big and juicy, it has luscious flavors of ripe black cherries with a kiss of spice. Pair with burgers, pizza, and BBQ.
St. Francis Reserve Zinfandel 2016, Dry Creek Valley ($45)
Bigger and more robust, Katie said this Zinfandel was meant to be more over the top. A bit of Petite Sirah was added to contribute color and texture. Powerful but balanced, it is meaty and rich with flavors of blackberries, raspberry, and perky pops of peppercorn. A great steakhouse wine!
If you're planning a trip to Sonoma, St. Francis welcomes visitors for a variety of wine tasting experiences.