Rivaling misinformed Merlot bashers as some of the most annoying wine drinkers is the “anything but Chardonnay” crowd. In my events planning career, I once had to politely school a client who didn’t want to serve Chardonnay at her far-from-fancy cocktail reception because she said it wasn’t classy. Really? I think our friends in Burgundy would beg to differ.
One of Chardonnay’s many charms is that it grows beautifully in wine regions around the globe. That has also been its downfall. Sadly, the market is flooded with many inferior wines that have sullied Chardonnay’s reputation. But when Chardonnay is produced with passion and integrity, few white wines can rival its capacity to transmit texture and terroir. And let's not forget Chardonnay's tremendous aging potential.
I personally enjoy white wines all year-round, but I do find that I reach for richer and fuller-bodied white wines in the winter season, and many of those wines are Chardonnay. Like a luxurious cashmere sweater, these wines wrap themselves around you and warm your spirit.
Catena Alta Historic Rows Chardonnay 2016 ($33) lingered in my memory long after the bottle was emptied. I sipped it at home in Manhattan but this impressive Chardonnay instantly transported me back to my 2015 visit to Mendoza, which included an unforgettable tasting and tour at Catena Zapata. Founded in 1902, Catena Zapata is truly one of Argentina’s winemaking pioneers. Knowing that great wine starts in the vineyard, this family-owned winery has devoted tremendous resources to analyzing their soils so that the grapes are cultivated in a manner that achieves optimum quality. Malbec may be Argentina’s signature grape but don’t ignore the wonderful Chardonnay being produced in this South American winemaking powerhouse.
Adrianna Vineyard
(image courtesy of Catena Zapata)
The Chardonnay grapes for Catena Alta Historic Rows Chardonnay were sourced from select rows in two of their historic Andean vineyards: Adrianna and Domingo. According to the winery, “At almost 5,000 feet elevation in the Andean foothills, the Adrianna vineyard's calcareous soils and cool climate are the promised land of Chardonnay. The fruit from the Adrianna vineyard has a purity of flavors and a minerality that is particular to this vineyard and cannot be found anywhere else in Mendoza. The nearby, gravel-covered Domingo Vineyard makes up 20% of the blend.”
Catena Alta is a bold Chardonnay but impeccable balance keeps it from veering off the cliff towards the land of flabby and overwrought wines. With a snappy minerality, ripe fruit, lively acidity, and long finish, this is a Chardonnay that elegantly stands out from the crowd.