Trends come and go but Bordeaux is timeless. In a world of ever-changing wine fads, there’s something reassuring about sipping an Old World wine with a long tradition. But don’t mistake tradition for stagnation. Each vintage and each producer has a unique story to tell.
Since being introduced to Lassègue Saint Émilion Grand Cru several years ago, I’ve started to anticipate the subtle variations created in each vintage by that year’s climate conditions at their vineyards on the Right Bank of the Dordogne River. Will the wine be bigger and more robust because of a heat wave? Or more subdued because of cooler conditions? How will Lassègue’s winemaker, the acclaimed Pierre Seillan, adjust the blend in response to those variations? Lassègue consistently impresses me with their ability to create a wine that is an authentic representation of each particular vintage yet remains true to their style and terroir.Château Lassègue was built in 1738. The striking structure and its 60 acres of vineyards were purchased by the Jackson and Seillan families in 2003.
image courtesy of Château Lassègue
Lassègue Saint Émilion Grand Cru 2016 ($60) is a blend of Merlot (60%), Cabernet Franc (33%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (7%) from old vines with an average age of 40-60 years. According to the winery, “The 2016 vintage was characterised by a mild and wet winter and spring, followed by warm, sunny and dry conditions from July through harvest.” And “the dry and sunny summer helped the vines to flourish, resulting in perfectly healthy grapes at harvest.” The beautiful balance and vitality of this wine reflects the influence of those ideal conditions.image courtesy of Château Lassègue
Luscious and rich but not overwhelming, 2016 Lassègue was aged for 12 months in French oak and has bold flavors of blackberry and plum with tangy pops of black licorice, dark chocolate, espresso bean, sweet clove, and earthy truffles. Vibrant acidity and a minerality that is delicately chalky with a thread of steely flint, make the wine lively and approachable without diminishing its grandeur. This is an exceptionally elegant Bordeaux.
