Wine With Wanda

The Sparkling Torch Passes at Champagne Boizel

Florent and Evelyne Roques-Boizel represent the 6th and 5th generations of Champagne Boizel. 

I may never again witness a passing of the torch as elegant and heartfelt as the tender moment between Evelyne Roques-Boizel and her son Florent Roques-Boizel. After more than 40 years of leading her family’s respected 185-year-old Champagne house, Evelyne has entrusted Florent with the family’s legacy and he has been appointed CEO. 


A woman of exceptional strength and character, Evelyne unexpectedly found herself leading Champagne Boizel at the age of 22 when her father and brother passed away within 2 years of each other. During that tumultuous time, Evelyne’s primary focus was keeping the family business afloat. But along the way she developed an authentic and profound passion for Champagne. Evelyne believes that “passion keeps you modest because there is always something to learn.” In my conversation with Florent, it was clear that he shares his mother’s passion for Champagne and is committed to maintaining her exacting standards. Champagne Boizel is in very good hands. 

Founded in 1834, Boizel is located in the heart of Epernay, on the iconic Avenue de Champagne. Crafting their wines with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sourced exclusively from Champagne’s most coveted Grands and Premiers Crus, Boizel uses only the first pressings of the grapes and dosage is kept to a minimum to preserve the wine’s natural expression. All of their wines are aged sur lie (on the lees) in their historic chalk cellars for a minimum of 3 years, and that aging process climbs to 15 years and beyond for the best vintages. That extended aging time noticeably adds complexity and texture to their wines. Fresh and elegant with delicate yet perky bubbles, Champagne Boizel’s wines are crisp, rich, and round; they sing with passion and precision.

Champagne Boizel Brut Réserve NV ($50) is a charming introduction to their House style. A fresh and crisp blend of Pinot Noir (55%), Chardonnay (30%) and Pinot Meunier (15%) that was aged three years sur lie in bottle, its flavors of citrus, apple, brioche, and white peach are vibrant and balanced. 

Such an elegant rosé! Champagne Boizel Rosé NV ($62) is a blend of Pinot Noir (50%), Pinot Meunier (30%) and Chardonnay (20%) that was aged for three years sur lie in bottle. The captivating color matches the energy of its crisp and vibrant raspberry, strawberry, and citrus flavors. 

Florent told me that their 100% Chardonnay Champagne Boizel Blanc de Blancs NV ($82) was the favorite of his father’s, whom they affectionately nicknamed “Mr. Chardonnay”! If you share my love of super-crisp, very mineral, and tantalizingly chalky Champagnes, this is the bubbly for you. Aged four years sur lie in bottle, layers of flavors and textures pirouette across the palate. Classic but not boring, this beauty has power and grace.

With zero dosage (no added sugar), Champagne Boizel “Ultime” Extra Brut NV ($90) is a very direct expression of terroir. Aged six years sur lie in bottle, this blend of Pinot Noir (50%), Chardonnay (37%), and Pinot Meunier (13%) displays a compelling medley of fruit, mineral, and savory flavors.

Only produced in the best years, Champagne Boizel Grand Vintage 2008 ($100) is a fine example of exceptional Champagne’s capacity for long aging. A blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir, this regal bubbly was aged 8 years sur lie in bottle. Still impressively fresh and lively, it is bold but not aggressive with a delightful interplay between citrus and nutty flavors. (2007 pictured but I tasted the 2008 vintage.)

A blend of 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay, Champagne Boizel “Joyau de France" Brut 2000 ($150) is produced only in the best years. Talk about extended aging – it spends an impressive 12 years aging sur lie in bottle. Bursting with vitality, it is crisp and mineral with tantalizing tinges of honey, almond, and marzipan.

Hope in the Ashes: A Devastating Fire Won't Stop Lismore Estate Vineyards from Making Great Wine in South Africa

Every wine has a story to tell and sometimes the truth behind the bottle will break your heart. Several weeks ago, I tasted 2017 Lismore Estate Reserve Chardonnay, Western Cape, South Africa ($40) and I haven’t stopped thinking about this exceptional wine and the intriguing woman who made it, Samantha O’Keefe. In a world where “anything but Chardonnay” has become a misguided mantra for many drinkers, Samantha has crafted an exuberant, balanced, and regal wine that will wow even the most jaded drinker. I loved the wine so much, I even sent a photo of the bottle to my boyfriend, a very talented and discerning sommelier, and told him that he must try it.

I recently learned that Samantha’s home and winery were reduced to ashes in a fire and my heart broke for her and her family. Although, we only chatted for a few minutes, Samantha made a lasting impression. Not only is she a talented winemaker, she has chutzpah. Many people dream about moving to a faraway land to make wine but Samantha, a Californian, actually did it. Her website states that in South Africa, Samantha found “paradise and the perfect terroir.”

The fire may have damaged paradise but not Samantha’s passion and tenacity. Via Facebook she shared a message that further increased my admiration: “We have experienced a tragedy like nothing we could have ever imagined. Thank you for the outpouring of love and support from the South African wine industry and everyone around the globe. Our hearts are broken, our home and my precious cellar is reduced to ashes but it seems some of our vines are as tough as we are and may survive it all. All of our bottled stock was stored off-site in Stellenbosch. I can assure everyone that Lismore wines remain available to the market. With the generous offers of cellar space, I will produce a 2020 vintage and will rebuild.”


So, if you see a bottle of Lismore at your local wine retailer or on a wine list, please show your support. And, I must thank Anthony Mueller, sommelier and Robert Parker Wine Advocate reviewer, for introducing me to Lismore and Samantha at their recent Wine Discoveries event in New York City. Not only did Anthony award the 2017 Lismore Estate Reserve Chardonnay 94 points, he selected to highlight it as his discovery of the year. Trust me, that’s a big deal.


I’ll defer to Anthony’s spot-on tasting notes: “On the nose, the 2017 Estate Reserve Chardonnay has elegant, luscious red apples, lemon, and pear tart and seductive floral notes of cherry blossom. It has excellent mouthfeel with perfect mid-palate weight and balance and elegant Chardonnay expression.”

I love the balanced richness of this Chardonnay. Elegant and joyous, its tapestry of flavors make a bold impact without being overbearing. Try it. It’s marvelous. And you’ll be doing your part to help Samantha write the next chapter of her winemaking story.

Wine Wisdom: Tough Vintages Don’t Scare St. Francis Winemaker Katie Madigan

“It’s not about having an amazing vintage but making amazing wine despite the vintage.”
Katie Madigan 

Watching winemaker Katie Madigan swirl her gleaming glass of 2017 St. Francis Chardonnay in a dark Manhattan steakhouse, it's hard to imagine the obstacles that were overcome to produce that joyous glass of wine.


Even before the fires that swept through Sonoma in 2017, Katie recalls that it was shaping up to be an extremely difficult harvest because of heat spikes late in the season that revved up ripening. Although, all of the Chardonnay grapes were picked prior to the fires, St. Francis did lose power. Sneaking into the winery, Katie and her team discovered that the grapes had started fermenting because of the loss of temperature control in the tanks. “I feel like this wine kind of made itself,” laughed Katie. 

Not easily discouraged by circumstances beyond her control, Katie said, “I respect difficult vintages. They teach you a lot. They teach you what you can handle.” Katie's career has made it clear that she doesn't shy away from a challenge. She joined St. Francis in 2002 as an intern and became a winemaker in 2011. She inherited her love of Chardonnay from her mom, who likes to sip it while she's cooking!

Katie believes that Chardonnay should be fresh and the 2017 meets that ideal. With crisp citrus and apple flavors with a touch of butterscotch and cream, it has great brightness and minerality. She was so impressed by the quality of the 2017 Chardonnay, Katie is figuring out ways to mimic the conditions that nurtured its creation – minus the fires, of course. Very food-friendly, this Chardonnay pairs beautifully with sea food and poultry. A great buy at around $17! 


St. Francis is also known for their portfolio of red wines. I’m particularly fond of their Zinfandel, which accounts for 1/3 of their production. The Zins may not have the dramatic backstory of the 2017 Chardonnay but these powerful reds certainly tell a story. 

St. Francis Old Vines Zinfandel 2016, Sonoma County ($22)
Crafted from vines at least 50 years old, and many as old as 100, Katie said this wine is meant to allure you with the aromas and not too much oak. Big and juicy, it has luscious flavors of ripe black cherries with a kiss of spice. Pair with burgers, pizza, and BBQ.

St. Francis Reserve Zinfandel 2016, Dry Creek Valley ($45)
Bigger and more robust, Katie said this Zinfandel was meant to be more over the top. A bit of Petite Sirah was added to contribute color and texture. Powerful but balanced, it is meaty and rich with flavors of blackberries, raspberry, and perky pops of peppercorn. A great steakhouse wine! 

If you're planning a trip to Sonoma, St. Francis welcomes visitors for a variety of wine tasting experiences. 

Sip This: Catena Alta Historic Rows Chardonnay 2016

Rivaling misinformed Merlot bashers as some of the most annoying wine drinkers is the “anything but Chardonnay” crowd. In my events planning career, I once had to politely school a client who didn’t want to serve Chardonnay at her far-from-fancy cocktail reception because she said it wasn’t classy. Really? I think our friends in Burgundy would beg to differ. 

One of Chardonnay’s many charms is that it grows beautifully in wine regions around the globe. That has also been its downfall. Sadly, the market is flooded with many inferior wines that have sullied Chardonnay’s reputation. But when Chardonnay is produced with passion and integrity, few white wines can rival its capacity to transmit texture and terroir. And let's not forget Chardonnay's tremendous aging potential.  

I personally enjoy white wines all year-round, but I do find that I reach for richer and fuller-bodied white wines in the winter season, and many of those wines are Chardonnay. Like a luxurious cashmere sweater, these wines wrap themselves around you and warm your spirit. 

Catena Alta Historic Rows Chardonnay 2016 ($33) lingered in my memory long after the bottle was emptied. I sipped it at home in Manhattan but this impressive Chardonnay instantly transported me back to my 2015 visit to Mendoza, which included an unforgettable tasting and tour at Catena Zapata. Founded in 1902, Catena Zapata is truly one of Argentina’s winemaking pioneers. Knowing that great wine starts in the vineyard, this family-owned winery has devoted tremendous resources to analyzing their soils so that the grapes are cultivated in a manner that achieves optimum quality. Malbec may be Argentina’s signature grape but don’t ignore the wonderful Chardonnay being produced in this South American winemaking powerhouse. 

Adrianna Vineyard
(image courtesy of Catena Zapata)

The Chardonnay grapes for Catena Alta Historic Rows Chardonnay were sourced from select rows in two of their historic Andean vineyards: Adrianna and Domingo. According to the winery, “At almost 5,000 feet elevation in the Andean foothills, the Adrianna vineyard's calcareous soils and cool climate are the promised land of Chardonnay. The fruit from the Adrianna vineyard has a purity of flavors and a minerality that is particular to this vineyard and cannot be found anywhere else in Mendoza. The nearby, gravel-covered Domingo Vineyard makes up 20% of the blend.”

Catena Alta is a bold Chardonnay but impeccable balance keeps it from veering off the cliff towards the land of flabby and overwrought wines. With a snappy minerality, ripe fruit, lively acidity, and long finish, this is a Chardonnay that elegantly stands out from the crowd.

It Started in Florence: How Tenuta di Lilliano Chianti Classico Came Into My Life

Alessandro Ruspoli represents his family's winery, Tenuta di Lilliano, around the world. 

It was a chilly night in Florence when our dinner hosts, politely yet firmly, nudged a giddy entourage of wine professionals into taxis after a Chianti Classico fueled dinner. Dinner had sashayed past the scheduled time, but in Italy you don't rush good wine and good conversation. Tucked into a tiny taxi with two dapper Italian gentlemen, our small talk took an interesting turn when the eldest, an internationally renowned Italian wine expert, admonished me and exclaimed, “How could you not know Tenuta di Lilliano? They are one of the most important wineries in Chianti Classico!” And that is how I met, Alessandro Ruspoli.

A few months later, I discovered that the outspoken gentleman in Florence wasn’t the only ardent fan of Alessandro and his family’s wines. When I received an invitation from wine marketing guru Tony DiDio to join him and Alessandro for dinner, I immediately said yes. So on a rainy night in Manhattan, in the cozy environs of Casa Apicci, I finally had the chance for a proper Tenuta di Lilliano tasting and conversation with Alessandro.

Easygoing and good-humored, Alessandro is endearingly down-to-earth for someone who hails from an ancient aristocratic family whose history in Tuscany can be traced back to the Renaissance. Their roots in Rome go back to the 17^th century and the family still resides in the historic Ruspoli palace in the heart of the Eternal City. Princess Eleonora Ruspoli Berlingieri was the first to recognize the winemaking potential of their Tuscan estate and began bottling Lilliano’s wines in 1958. And yes, that crest on the bottle is the real deal; it bears the coats of arms of the Ruspoli and Berlingieri families.


image courtesy of Tenuta di Lilliano

But it takes more than a rich history and an aristocratic lineage to make good wine. At the end of the day, the wine has to speak for itself. I’ve made no secret of my affection for Chianti Classico and Tenuta di Lilliano’s wines are impressive. When I taste a glass of Chianti Classico, I want to encounter an authentic expression of Sangiovese that is true to the character of the grape, transmits the essence of terroir, and displays winemaking that is precise but not over-manipulated. Tenuta di Lilliano meets that threshold.

If you’re looking for beautiful red wines to share with friends and family this holiday season, and all year round, give Tenuta di Lilliano a swirl. Elegant and enjoyable, their Chianti Classico wines have the sophistication needed to impress wine snobs, but they are also approachable for wine rookies. Very food-friendly, they pair brilliantly with a wide variety of foods, including pasta, poultry, red meat, and cheeses.


Tenuta di Lilliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2016 ($20)
A blend of Sangiovese (90%) with kisses of Colorino (5%) and Merlot (5%), it is fresh and supple with a hint of spice to rev up those classic red cherry flavors of Sangiovese.



Tenuta di Lilliano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2015 ($32)
100% Sangiovese, 2015 was an exceptional vintage in Chianti Classico and you can taste those ideal conditions in this captivating vino. With a beautiful balance between freshness and structure, this sip is quite appealing now and has great aging potential. 


 
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($36)
Gran Selezione represents the very top of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid and this is a worthy member of that elite club. A blend of Sangiovese (90%), Colorino (5%), and Merlot (5%), intermingled with rich and round fruit flavors are sassy savory notes of licorice and herbs. Lively acidity and tangible minerality round out this elegant composition.

image courtesy of Tenuta di Lilliano

If you’re planning a trip to Tuscany, Tenuta di Lilliano welcomes guests. Just a 45-minute drive from Florence, in addition to tastings they have luxury villas and apartments available for rent.

Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon Stands the Test of Time

The 1980’s will be remembered for many things: questionable fashions, great pop music, and for us wine geeks, the 1987 debut vintage of Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon. One of Chile’s most iconic and awarded wines, it didn’t take long for Don Melchor to captivate the wine world; the 1988 vintage was the first Chilean wine recognized by Wine Spectator as one of the Top 100 Wines of the World. It has been honored on this prestigious list nine times, including three times in the coveted Top 10.

I’ll confess that I was unaware of Don Melchor’s impressive pedigree when I first tasted the wine several years ago. I approached the wine with no expectations and was authentically swept away by Don Melchor’s beauty, complexity, and drinkability. It is truly a personal favorite. Its many accolades are certainly well-deserved, but at the end of the day the wine has to speak for itself and Don Melchor is poetry in a bottle.


“For me, Don Melchor represents the constant search for the best expression of every vine in the vineyard in order to achieve the beauty of balance of the Puente Alto terroir in every vintage." 
Enrique Tirado, Winemaker

I recently had the pleasure of meeting Don Melchor’s winemaker, Enrique Tirado. Our tasting featured the current 30^th anniversary 2017 vintage, the inaugural 1987 vintage, and several others spanning three decades. It was quite a journey through time. The wines had evolved beautifully and while each expressed the peculiarities of that particular vintage, they shared an enduring freshness and balance.


image courtesy of Don Melchor

“Don Melchor is not a single Cabernet Sauvignon, but multiple expressions,” said Enrique. He isn’t speaking metaphorically but literally: their historic Puente Alto vineyard at the foot of the Andes Mountains is grouped into seven blocks that are further divided into more than 150 parcels. Each parcel offers a unique expression that varies from year to year. Enrique methodically selects from these parcels to create a complex but harmonious tapestry of wine. 


Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($120) blends Cabernet Sauvignon (98%) with a kiss of Cabernet Franc (2%). Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, it has rich red berry flavors that are accented by subtle hints of spice and earth. A bold red, Don Melchor certainly has heft but its signature freshness and vitality keep it graceful and elegant. For the Cabernet Sauvignon lovers in your life, Don Melchor is a gift that is certain to wow them. Santa, if you’re reading this, I’ve been pretty good this year, por favor put a bottle of Don Melchor in my stocking!  

If you're planning a visit to Chile, Don Melchor welcomes guests for their Collectors Experience, which includes a tour of the grounds, cellar, and tasting. 

Sparkling Spotlight: Pop a Cork on Fantastic Wines from Tasmania, Tuscany, and Chile

Liven up your holiday celebrations, and take your palate on a journey, with this trio of sensational sparkling wines from unexpected places!


Tasmania: Jansz Tasmania Premium Cuvée NV ($30)
A sparkling wine from Tasmania? Hmm, where exactly is Tasmania? These are just a few of the questions that went through my head when I saw this bottle of bubbly from Jansz. For the record, Tasmania is Australia’s only island state and its cool climatic conditions are similar to Champagne. Also, like Champagne, Jansz Premium Cuvée is made in the traditional method -- meaning that its bubbles are developed via a second fermentation in the bottle. However, instead of calling it Méthode Champenoise, they cheekily describe it as Méthode Tasmanoise. Method certainly matters but the proof is in the sip and Jansz is fresh and creamy with delicate bubbles and pretty flavors of strawberry from the Pinot Noir, soft citrus, and a tinge of vanilla. This off-the-beaten path and delicious bubbly is certain to captivate your guests!

Tuscany: Bibi Graetz “Bollamatta” Rosé Sparkling Wine ($26)
I love a winemaker with a sense of humor. Bollamatta means “crazy bubbles” in Tuscan slang and is another delicious example of Bibi Graetz’s knack for making wines that are unconventional without sacrificing quality. Tuscany may be best known for using the indigenous grape Sangiovese to make powerhouse red wines but Bollamata shows the grape’s flirty and playful side. Fruity with a touch of sweetness, Bollamatta is crafted from 100% organic Sangiovese grapes and has lively flavors of crisp red cherries, raspberries, strawberries, and a hint of peach.

Chile: Cono Sur Sparkling Brut ($17)
Talk about a wine that goes the distance! Cono Sur Sparkling Brut hails from one of the world’s most southern wine producing regions, the Bío-Bío Valley in Chile. Exuberant and super-crisp, the blend is primarily Chardonnay (95%) with a kiss of Pinot Noir (5%). With its bright flavors of green apple, lime, lemon, chamomile, and soft mint combined with impressive minerality; there’s an impressive structure and finesse in this well-priced sip from so very far away.

Sip This: Lassègue Saint Émilion Grand Cru 2016

Trends come and go but Bordeaux is timeless. In a world of ever-changing wine fads, there’s something reassuring about sipping an Old World wine with a long tradition. But don’t mistake tradition for stagnation. Each vintage and each producer has a unique story to tell.

Since being introduced to Lassègue Saint Émilion Grand Cru several years ago, I’ve started to anticipate the subtle variations created in each vintage by that year’s climate conditions at their vineyards on the Right Bank of the Dordogne River. Will the wine be bigger and more robust because of a heat wave? Or more subdued because of cooler conditions? How will Lassègue’s winemaker, the acclaimed Pierre Seillan, adjust the blend in response to those variations? Lassègue consistently impresses me with their ability to create a wine that is an authentic representation of each particular vintage yet remains true to their style and terroir.

Château Lassègue was built in 1738. The striking structure and its 60 acres of vineyards were purchased by the Jackson and Seillan families in 2003. 
image courtesy of Château Lassègue

Lassègue Saint Émilion Grand Cru 2016 ($60) is a blend of Merlot (60%), Cabernet Franc (33%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (7%) from old vines with an average age of 40-60 years. According to the winery, “The 2016 vintage was characterised by a mild and wet winter and spring, followed by warm, sunny and dry conditions from July through harvest.” And “the dry and sunny summer helped the vines to flourish, resulting in perfectly healthy grapes at harvest.” The beautiful balance and vitality of this wine reflects the influence of those ideal conditions.

image courtesy of Château Lassègue

Luscious and rich but not overwhelming, 2016 Lassègue was aged for 12 months in French oak and has bold flavors of blackberry and plum with tangy pops of black licorice, dark chocolate, espresso bean, sweet clove, and earthy truffles. Vibrant acidity and a minerality that is delicately chalky with a thread of steely flint, make the wine lively and approachable without diminishing its grandeur. This is an exceptionally elegant Bordeaux. 

Behind the Bubbles: Mionetto Prosecco Just May Surprise You

 

image courtesy of Mionetto

Ahh, Prosecco. The word rolls merrily off the tongue and Italy’s most famous sparkling wine is so easy to sip. From leisurely brunches to energetic happy hours, Prosecco is everywhere and shows no signs of slowing down. If you’re a Prosecco fan, Mionetto is a very familiar name. I’m pretty certain that Mionetto was the first Prosecco that I ever sipped. But how much do you really know about Mionetto? I asked myself that very same question when I was invited to a tasting with Enore Ceola, CEO and Managing Director of Freixenet Mionetto USA. I knew he would have the answers.

Enore Ceola, CEO and Managing Director of Mionetto Freixenet USA and the man credited for creating the Prosecco craze in the US!
image courtesy of Mionetto

The New York Times declared: “Perhaps no one has pushed harder to establish Prosecco in the United States than Mionetto.” Enore can certainly take credit for that impressive achievement. Born in the Prosecco region, when Enore came to New York in the late 1990’s you would have been hard pressed to find a bottle of Prosecco. He is widely credited for not only introducing Mionetto to American consumers but to Prosecco overall as a category. Mionetto paved the way for the expansive selection of Prosecco wines that are now readily available in the US.

image courtesy of Mionetto

Prosecco may be trendy but Mionetto actually has a long and rich history. Founded in 1887 by winemaker Francesco Mionetto in Valdobbiadene, the heart of the Prosecco region, Mionetto is one of the area’s oldest wine producers. Each bottle of Mionetto contains 49 billion bubbles and countless connections to an important winemaking tradition.

Glera grapes are the foundation of Prosecco.
image courtesy of Prosecco DOC

Now that we’re all familiar with Prosecco at a macro level, Mionetto wants us to get micro. At its simplest, Prosecco can be defined as a white wine from northeast Italy, produced from the Glera grape, it can be sparkling, semi-sparkling, or still. But Mionetto, and many other producers, are exploring the finer nuances of Prosecco and crafting wines that transmit more complexity and a sense of terroir. (FYI, all of Mionetto’s wines are semi-sparkling and sparkling.)

Mionetto Prestige Brut Prosecco Treviso DOC ($14)
The vivid orange label is instantly recognizable and the Prosecco in the bottle is charmingly consistent. 100% Glera, it is a fresh, crisp, and classic expression of Prosecco.

Fruity but not sweet, it is delightful on its own and also the perfect foundation for the increasingly popular Aperol Spritz, along with Mimosas and Bellinis. Visit the Mionetto website for a great selection of Prosecco cocktail recipes and food pairing suggestions. 



Mionetto Prestige Organic Prosecco DOC Extra Dry ($16)
Another example of Mionetto’s trailblazing status, this was actually the first Prosecco made from organically-grown grapes. Crafted from 100% certified organic Glera grapes, it is crisp and vibrant with flavors of fresh green apple. Technically, Prosecco isn't health food but don't we all feel better when we see organic on the label? And Prosecco is actually pretty low in calories compared to other wines - around 80 calories per glass. 



Mionetto Prestige Rosé Extra Dry ($14)
Technically, rosé wines can’t be called Prosecco yet but Mionetto and other producers are working towards changing that regulation. The labels may not currently say Prosecco but sparkling pink wines from the Prosecco region are becoming increasingly popular. Mionetto’s delightful pink bubbly blends Raboso (70%) and Lagrein (30%) grapes from Veneto and Trentino. Fresh and flirty, it has juicy and crisp flavors of strawberry and raspberry.

My Mionetto tasting was an important reminder that some large and well-known wine brands have earned their popularity the real way, not just because of clever branding. At the foundation of Mionetto’s success is their commitment to making Prosecco that people enjoy and authentically represents the winemaking traditions of their region. I applaud them for making quality bubbles that everyone can enjoy. Cheers! 

PS If you really want to geek out on Prosecco, I encourage you to try the wines from Mionetto’s Luxury Collection – they are impressive, next-level Prosecco! 

 

Classic, Cool, Collio: An Italian Wonderland of White Wines

One could spend a lifetime studying Italian wines and only tap the surface of its viticultural treasures. But don’t be intimidated by that abundance. Instead, consider Italian wines an open invitation to an endlessly enjoyable, exciting, and educational tasting experience. Many of Italy’s 20 wine regions have become household names abroad, but don’t overlook the charm and quality of wines being produced in under-exposed areas. From north to south, beautiful Italian wines await you. Collio, with its elegant and expressive white wines, is a region that needs to be on your radar.

Confession: When I was invited to visit Collio a few months ago, I wasn’t entirely sure where it was located. Thank goodness for Google and Italian friends. Located in the northeast of Italy, in the region of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Collio borders Slovenia and once formed part of the Austro-Hungarian empire. Collio is derived from the Italian word for hillsides and the area’s hilly vineyards benefit from the climatic conditions created by its location between the Julian Alps and the Adriatic Sea.

Collio is renowned for white wines, crafted from indigenous and international grapes, with pronounced minerality. In Italy and beyond, they are considered some of the very best. Collio’s wines are the complete antithesis of wimpy and watery white wines. A great deal of the robustness and mineral character of Collio’s white wines can be attributed to their soils. Known as ‘ponca’, this soil is composed of marl clay from the Eocene era and is rich with mineral soils that imbue the wines with incredible texture and nuance.

The indigenous grapes from Collio may unfamiliar but the taste of the wines have universal appeal. These include Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia, and Picolit. These indigenous grapes make outstanding single-varietal wines, and many of them have the potential to age beautifully. White blends, known as Collio Bianco, are also superb expressions of the region’s winemaking prowess.

I’ll defer to the Consorzio Tutela Vini Collio on their official descriptions of the indigenous varieties.

Ribolla Gialla
“This is the most ancient of the indigenous grape varieties, of which signs of centuries-old vines are still found in the micro-zone of Oslavia. The first documents which testify to its presence date back to 1300. It is of a lively straw-yellow color with characteristic hints of green and has a delicate fresh scent of vegetable and almonds. Its flavor is full-bodied and harmonious.”

Friulano
“One of the most famous and renowned wines of the area, which until 2007 was called Tocai Friulano. It is of a straw-yellow color with characteristic hints of green and has a delicate fresh scent of vegetables and almonds. Its flavor is full-bodied and harmonious.”

Malvasia
“The grape has been present for many years in the Collio region, where it has found its ideal habitat. It is characterized by a light straw-yellow color with hints of green and a clear scent that reminds one of exotic fruit and white pepper. To the palate, it is dry yet fresh, lively and full-bodied.”

Picolit
“This is a noble and very rare wine, of a straw-yellow color and more or less intense golden hints, with a pleasant and enthusiastic scent that recalls flowers of the field and acacia honey. The flavor is sweet, ample, and smooth.”

And while it can be heard to generate excitement about ubiquitous varieties like Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon, in Collio these wines express an astounding depth of character. Red wines are also produced in Collio; including Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and the Collio Rosso red blend.

If a trip to Italy is in your future, consider serene and beautiful Collio. Until then, take your palate on a journey and explore white wines from the region. They really are something special. Truly, if you see Collio on the label, give the wine a chance. Across the board, the quality of the wines is generally very impressive.

To assist you in selecting a wine from Collio, I’ve opted to highlight three producers: Gradis' Ciutta, Livon, and Ronco Blanchis. I tasted several wines from each of these producers and their consistence and quality were at a high level. Trust me, if you see their names on the bottle, you are tasting an authentic expression of Collio.

Gradis’ Ciutta

I received a warm welcome in Collio at Gradis’ Ciutta from winemaker/owner Robert Princic and his friendly four-legged friend.

Winemaker and owner of Gradis' Ciutta, Robert Princic’s family has been involved in agriculture in Collio for many generations. Robert can't remember a time when wine wasn't a part of his life -- he says that he was basically born among their vineyards. His wine education truly began working alongside his father Isidoro but Robert also pursued formal education. After graduating from enology school, Robert took over the winery in 1997. Inspired by his family’s ties to the region, Robert selected the name Gradis’ Ciutta, the name of a hilltop hamlet where his grandfather had vineyards. The name is quite fitting because the area was previously known as Monsvini, which is Latin for "the mountain of wine".


Robert’s wines are an excellent example of why Collio is renowned for making some of Italy’s finest white wines. Crisp, pure, and precise, these wines have tremendous complexity, texture, and finesse. Pinot Grigio may be ubiquitous but throughout Collio, and in the wines of Gradis’ Ciutta, you are reminded of Pinot Grigio’s capacity to transmit terroir and personality. Robert also produces superb Friulano, Malvasia, Ribolla Gialla, and more. (And, I must add that Robert's mother, Ivanka, makes the best apple strudel I've ever tasted!) 

Robert, who is also president of the Collio Wine Consorzio, expressed his wish that Collio would become synonymous with high quality white wines and that people will say, “Let’s drink Collio!”  Based on the high quality of wines produced by Robert and his peers, I think wine lovers will be clamoring for Collio more than ever.

Ronco Blanchis

Lorenzo Palla of Ronco Blanchis

Ronco Blanchis pours all of their passion and expertise into producing exclusively white wines from Collio. Purchased 20 years ago by Lorenzo Palla and his father Giancarlo, even the winery’s name is inspired by the land – Ronco means side of the hill and Blanchis means white, as in the color of the wines. Committed to sustainability, Ronco Blanchis uses only solar energy to produce their Friulano, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon, and Collio Bianco blend.

During my visit to Ronco Blanchis, I was particularly captivated by their Friulano. We tasted vintages spanning about a dozen years that beautifully showcased how elegantly Friulano ages. The glass was practically dancing with the medley of flavors – citrus, sage, minerality, salinity, pineapple, almond, and more.  

Livon

 Cousins Matteo and Francesca Livon represent the third-generation of the revered Collio winery, Livon.

Sipping wine on the terrace of Livon’s breathtaking Braide Alte estate, facing the Alps and with Slovenia visible to the right, Collio’s unique geography and history came to life. One of the most established and celebrated producers in the region, Livon’s history spans more than fifty years. And the winery is very much a family affair. Dorino Livon first acquired vineyards in 1964 and today three generations of the family are intimately involved in the winery. (They also make amazing balsamic vinegar!)



My Livon tasting experience included their Manditocai Friulano Collio, a single-vineyard and limited-production wine. We tasted several vintages of Manditocai, including 2006, which was the very first. Manditocai is another excellent example of Friulano’s impressive aging power. The 2006, at thirteen-years-old, revealed beautiful flavors of baked apples, honey, orange blossom, and almonds. 2015 Manditocai, young and juicy, had vibrant flavors of yellow peach and almond.



My time in Collio was nothing less than magical. Yes, the wines and landscapes are breathtaking but there’s also a serenity that this frazzled New Yorker found extremely seductive and comforting. Every person that I met, not just the winemakers, spoke lovingly of their land and Collio’s hold on their hearts.

Matteo Bellotto was my gracious and knowledgable guide through Collio and has written a book about the wines of Friuli Venezia Giulia. He is a poignant example of the character of Collio’s people. Matteo doesn’t just view wine as a product, but as an expression of Collio’s history, spirituality, culture, and respect for Mother Nature. I say amen and let’s raise a glass of Collio wine!

Sparkling Spotlight: Champagne Palmer & Co. Brut Réserve

What do you like to drink on a snowy day? Some people like a steamy cup of hot cocoa, I prefer a crisp glass of Champagne! As snow frosted the streets of Manhattan, I was warm and cozy inside with a bottle of Champagne Palmer & Co. Brut Réserve ($60). And since the first snow fall of the season is a special occasion, it only seemed fitting to pair it with Pearl Street Caviar Siberian Select (prices start at $25). You may call it decadent, I call it my snow day survival kit!


image courtesy of Champagne Palmer & Co.

A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier from the most prestigious terroirs in the Champagne region, Champagne Palmer Brut Réserve is full-bodied and vivacious. Aged four years on the lees, it is crisp and clean with delicate bubbles and a subtle creaminess. It pirouettes across the palate with flavors of lemon sorbet, golden apple, Japanese pear, and intriguing hints of ginger, hazelnut, and buttery brioche woven into the strong mineral core. A very elegant and delicious bubbly that is perfect on snowy days, sunny days, sultry nights, and more, Champagne Palmer & Co.’s flagship wine is quite impressive.  

image courtesy of Champagne Palmer & Co.

Founded more than 70 years ago by seven grower families with prized Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards in the Montagne de Reims region, the Champagne Palmer & Co. team clearly knows that great wine starts in the vineyards and you can taste the terroir and exceptional quality of the grapes in the bold and balanced Brut Réserve. 

Sip This: Ruffino Modus Toscana 2016

Looking for a sensational super Tuscan at a fantastic price? Ruffino Modus Toscana IGT 2016 ($26) is a gorgeous blend of Sangiovese (39%), Merlot (35%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (26%). Chief winemaker, Gabriele Tacconi, describes Modus as “a pure Florentine wine” with "a foot in the past but something different". It certainly is an elegant expression of Ruffino’s Poggio Casciano estate, just twenty minutes from Florence.


“Modus is a wine with an ancient soul and a modern heart.”
- Gabriele Tacconi, Chief Winemaker, Ruffino



Blending is an art form that requires precision and patience to ensure that the resulting wine is harmonious. Modus certainly meets that standard. Aged for 12 months in French oak, it is silky yet substantial with luscious black cherry, plum, and blackberry flavors with sassy accents of sweet tobacco, spice, and a tinge of balsamic.

It's always a pleasure to taste with Gabriele. 

Latin for ‘Method’, Modus refers to the many elements that must come together to craft this wine - vines, sun, fruit, soil, and last but not least, people. For Gabriele, the importance of people in the winemaking process can't be overstated. "Without us wine is nothing. People are the most important element."

The first vintage of Modus was produced in 1997. I’ve had the chance to taste older vintages of Modus and it ages beautifully. And the affordable price point makes it possible to buy a few bottles of Modus to enjoy now and a few to store away for future enjoyment.

Get in the Holiday Spirit with German Wines!

So much wine, so little time. But that’s not a reason to be discouraged. Go ahead and seize the opportunity to sip out of your comfort zone. We all have our favorite wines and regions but exploration is also an important part of the wine drinking experience. If you’re looking for expertly made, moderately priced, and simply delicious wines to serve this holiday season, German wines merit your consideration. Trust me, you’re likely to find some new favorites and your guests will say Danke for introducing them to some fantastic wines.


To make your foray into German wines stress-free, snag this great 4-pack from Snooth. Specially priced at $100 (full value, $150) it includes one sparkling white, two still white wines, and one red. To learn more about the wines featured in the gift pack, you can also watch Snooth’s virtual tasting, led by sommelier Sarah Tracey. Sarah describes German wines as “hidden treats and treasures” and praises their freshness and flavors.

The four wines featured in the Snooth 4-pack are listed below.  

Fitz Ritter Sekt, Pfalz, NV
They really love their bubbles in Germany – they are #1 in the world for sparkling wine consumption! But they don’t just pop bottles from other countries, Germany also produces their own sparkling wine, which they call Sekt. This selection of Fitz Ritter Sekt is crafted from 100% Riesling. Fresh and fruity, it is an elegant way to greet your guests. It also pairs beautifully with cheeses and charcuterie. 

Weingut Rudolf May Retzstadt Silvaner, Franken, 2016
What’s old is new again! Silvaner may not be a household name now but in the 1900’s it was Germany’s top white wine. Robust, earthy, bone-dry, mineral, and herbal; this intriguing wine is growing in popularity and is a great match with veggies and poultry. And the unusual bottle shape is certainly a conversation starter -- apparently it was designed to not roll down the mountain if it fell while sipping outdoors! 

Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Noble House Riesling, Mosel, 2018
Contrary to popular belief, Riesling isn’t always sweet. In fact, dry German Rieslings are more popular than ever. This medium-sweet and low-alcohol Riesling is one of those magical wines that can pair with almost everything from a meaty main course to dessert.

Messmer Spätburgunder, Pfalz, 2015 
Germany is the third largest producer of Pinot Noir in the world, just behind France and the USA. Known as Spätburgunder, Pinot Noir thrives in Germany’s cool climate. This intriguing biodynamic selection has beautiful herbal and savory flavors. A great match with roast duck or pork chops.