It takes a winemaker with exceptional talent and confidence to craft a champagne that lives up to the audacious name Rare. Régis Camus is such a winemaker. Quite frankly, Régis is the standard by which I judge all other champagne makers. And I’m not alone in my high opinion of his skills – Régis has been honored 8 times as Sparkling Winemaker of the Year by the International Wine Challenge. Yes, Régis has clearly mastered the art of making bubbly.
In 2018, Régis retired from Piper-Heidsieck after a tenure of 22 years, including 16 years in the prestigious role of cellar master. But you would have been foolish to count him out. Régis is now the cellar master for the House’s exclusive Rare Champagne. Produced only in the most exceptional vintages, only 11 vintages of Rare have been created in the last four decades.
Over the years, I’ve had the honor of tasting several vintages of Rare with Régis. The exquisite beauty of Rare Champagne is rivaled only by his humility and humor. In our laughter-filled tastings, it has become clear to me that making champagne isn’t just his career, it is Régis’s calling. The accolades are certainly well-deserved but I am convinced that Régis would pour his heart into making exquisite champagne even if no one noticed. But we do notice.
Rare is always released to great fanfare and Champagne connoisseurs know that only exceptional bottles of bubbly are worthy of being bottled as Rare. It is vital for Régis that Rare Champagne has spicy notes and he told me that he will only deem a vintage Rare if freshness, minerality, and exotic notes are there. If not, he won’t make it. For that reason, no vintage was declared since 2002, until 2006.“Rare Millésime 2006 is immediately delectable, both oriental and fresh, mature and warm. Thanks to its almost paradoxical mineral and opulent tautness, it shows substantial potential for expression.”
Régis Camus
Régis always provides succinct descriptions that capture the essence of each Rare vintage and has declared Rare 2006 ($175) as SUNNY. In 2006, copious sunshine with moderate temperatures increased the opulence of the grapes. Always a blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, Régis said that Rare is always an “authentic image of the vintage.” Cellared for thirteen years, Rare 2006 has aged beautifully. It is very generous on the palate but still maintains a youthful energy. And its rich golden hue certainly evokes the warmth and brilliance of sunshine.“I had already produced the first Rare Champagne rosé vintage in 2007. I took the liberty the following year of creating a successor, which would not be discovered until a decade later. Rare Rosé Millésime 2008 proves to be decisively graceful and mineral, much like a Mondrian, with nuances of quartz.”
Régis Camus
Rare Rosé 2008 ($450) is only the second vintage of rosé, Rare Rosé 2007 was the first. While the 2007 was described as SENSUAL, Régis has deemed Rare Rosé 2008 to be PRECISELY GRACIOUS. The first thing you notice is the beautiful shade of coppery pink, reminiscent of pink quartz. Régis spoke of the challenges of making the color consistent and his disdain for rosé that is more orange than pink. A blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, Régis is adamant that Rare Rosé display vibrant fruit and color but not aggressive tannins. Silky and delicate but impactful, Rare Rosé 2008 is sexy and elegant with a subtle sensuality. It swept me off my feet.
Yes, Rare 2006 and Rare Rosé 2008 are splurges but these impeccably crafted wines take you on a journey that reveals the unique power and beauty of vintage Champagne and the dedication, passion, and precision required to make wine at this level. With great anticipation, I await Régis’s declaration of the next Rare vintages.
