I always like to describe Carmenere from Chile as the heroine of a dramatic telenovela (soap opera). After many years of mistaken identity, our leading lady’s true persona was discovered and she assumed her rightful post as belle of the ball. It’s hard to believe, but Carmenere, the red wine grape most closely associated with Chile, was not accurately identified until 25 years ago, on November 24, 1994.
image courtesy of Concha y Toro
Carmenere actually arrived in Chile in the 1800’s with other Bordeaux varieties. In 1867, that dastardly louse known as Phylloxera wiped out most of Bordeaux’s vineyards, including Carmenere. When vineyards were replanted in Bordeaux, Carmenere was not included due to its late ripening and susceptibility to disease. However, Carmenere was quietly thriving in Chile where it was mistakenly identified as a type of Merlot. This mistake lingered until 1994 when Jean Michel Boursiquot, a French ampelographer (grape identification expert), made the startling discovery that Chilean Merlot was actually Carmenere. Voila! Chilean winemaking would never be the same.
Carmenere Grapes
image courtesy Wines of Chile
If you’re a fan of Chilean wines, Concha y Toro is a familiar name. Their extensive portfolio includes entry-level everyday wines, high-end collectible wines, and wonderful mid-priced options. As one of Chile’s most important wineries, they have been instrumental in elevating the profile and quality of Carmenere. To taste the beauty and versatility of Carmenere, I recommend trying one of Concha y Toro’s selections from the Cachapoal Valley, Chile’s top region for Carmenere and home to one of Concha y Toro’s oldest vineyards.
Carmenere’s dramatic flavors correspond perfectly to its back story. The deepest, darkest, and most purple of the red grapes, Carmenere is generally described as having flavors of raspberry and other red fruits with hints of black pepper, paprika, and some green bell pepper vegetal flavors. Good acidity and mild tannins make Carmenere very easy to pair with a wide variety of foods.
Terrunyo Carmenere Block 27 2017, D.O. Peumo, Cachapoal Valley ($41.99)
100% Carmenere. Aged 9 months in French oak barrels. Full and voluptuous with rich, but not overly ripe flavors of blueberries, wild berries, hints of cedar and violet, and soft tannins.
Marques de Casa Concha Carmenere 2017, D.O. Peumo, Cachapoal Valley ($26.99)
90% Carmenere and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 14 months in French oak barrels. Classic Carmenere flavors get added oomph with vibrant hints of ripe plums and dark chocolate from the Cabernet Sauvignon.
Serie Riberas Gran Riserva Carmenere 2017, D.O. Peumo, Cachapoal Valley ($15.99)
93.2% Carmenere, 6.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 0.6 %Merlot. Aged 10 months in French and American oak barrels. Silky and elegant, bold berry flavors with a subtle kick of spice. These vines are located on the banks of the Cachapoal River, which imbues the wine with a charming freshness.