Massimiliano Biagi (Agronomist and Technical Director) and Francesco Ricasoli (President and Owner of Ricasoli and 32nd Baron of Brolio)
It takes a person with extraordinary passion, patience, and determination to buy back their family’s business almost 20 years after it had been sold to a foreign entity. Baron Francesco Ricasoli is such a person. The Ricasoli family has been linked to wine since 1141 and they are documented as the oldest winery in Italy and the fourth oldest family business in the world. When Francesco regained ownership of their winery in 1993, he was also reclaiming Ricasoli’s esteemed position as a producer of superb Italian wines. After all, it was his great-grandfather, politician and wine visionary Bettino Ricasoli, that is credited for developing the signature Chianti blend, now called Chianti Classico.
image courtesy of Ricasoli
Their Brolio Castle, located within the town limits of Gaiole in Chianti, sits majestically on their 3000-acre estate. 600 acres of the estate are planted to vineyards, making it the largest estate in Chianti Classico under vine. There are also 60 acres of olive groves.
In a recent tasting of Ricasoli wines, led by Francesco and the estate’s agronomist and technical director Massimiliano Biagi, I was impressed not only by the excellent quality of the wines but the diverse range of expression. Francesco described “Brolio as a magical place” and you can taste that special essence in the wines. One of the secrets to that magic is the estate’s many soil types and micro-climates.
It is also a bit magical that Francesco and Massimiliano are working together. As a little boy, Massimiliano played in front of Brolio Castle and never imagined that one day he would play such a pivotal role in creating Ricasoli’s celebrated wines.
image courtesy of Ricasoli
Ricasoli has devoted tremendous time and resources to studying the nuances of each unique zone and crafting wines that authentically express that specific terroir. They have identified 19 different soil types and all of Ricasoli’s vineyards are on hills, with altitudes ranging from about 600 to 1600 feet.
It’s no secret that I’m a big fan of Chianti Classico and Ricasoli is certainly in the top tier of quality producers. I recommend getting to know their wines with these 5 wines from 2015 and 2016, vintages that Francesco described as magical for their exceptional quality.
Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2016 ($22)
This crisp and juicy blend of Sangiovese (80%), Merlot (15%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%), is a charming introduction to the Ricasoli style. Aged for 9 months in tonneaux (large barrels), its fresh red fruit flavors, perky acidity, and smooth tannins make this an approachable but elegant expression of Chianti Classico.
Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2016 ($30)
The Riserva has the same blend, proportions, and vintage as the Chianti Classico but was aged twice as long and spent 18 months in tonneaux. It is a bit more robust and complex hints of spice add verve to crisp and rich flavors of wild red fruit and black cherry.
Gran Selezione
Gran Selezione represents the very top tier of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid and Ricasoli produces different selections from different vineyard plots. Tasting them side by side is an excellent way to understand the impact of soil type on a wine’s flavor profile.
Ricasoli Colledilá Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($70)
A single vineyard wine, the Sangiovese grapes for Colledilá grow in soil that is very stony and rich in calcium -- one of the most representative types found in Chianti Classico. Aged for 18 months in tonneaux, Colledilà is described as “full with aromas of violet and iris coupled with ripe red fruits followed by hints of pepper and a whisper of white chocolate which give way to a full, velvety mouthfeel with soft tannins.” It also has an intense minerality and savory thread that is quite seductive.
Ricasoli Roncione Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($85)
The soils of the Roncione vineyard contain mineral deposits from the Pliocene era. The official tasting notes describe Roncione as “intense ruby red color with garnet hues. Complex on the nose, with aromas of iris, violet and soft oaky notes. Sapid to taste, excellent acidity, which gives this Cru character and elegance. Robust finish, and aftertaste that reflects the aromas. A great expression of the Brolio marine deposit terroir.” 100% Sangiovese, Roncione’s red fruit flavors are intense and concentrated but a hint of salinity adds an energetic freshness that is quite intriguing.
Ricasoli CeniPrimo Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($85)
The Sangiovese grapes for CeniPrimo grow on the great valley of the River Arbia. The soil, which originates from an ancient river terrace dating back to the Pliocence-Pleistocene eras, is quite distinct and complex with some silty deposits, clay, and limestone. CeniPrimo is 100% Sangiovese and described as an “Intense ruby red color with slight garnet hues. Red fruits and delicate balsamic notes. Begins soft in the mouth, velvety and voluminous. The tannin is embracing, elegant and perfectly balanced with the acidity. A long, persistent finish, with character: an unique expression of Brolio’s ancient fluvial terrace.” Robust but not overwhelming, CeniPrimo has impeccable balance and energy.
Osteria di Brolio
image courtesy of Ricasoli
If you’re planning a visit to Tuscany, Brolio Castle is one of the most celebrated destinations in wine country. Welcoming almost 50,000 visitors per year, guests can enjoy wine tastings, guided tours of the cellar and vineyards, and meals at Osteria di Brolio.
image courtesy of Ricasoli
You can also book an overnight stay at their charmingly restored 18th century farmhouse, Agriturismo Agresto. Located on a hill southwest of Brolio Castle, it is surrounded by vineyards.
