Wine With Wanda

Sipping Austria: Get to Know Grüner Veltliner with Domäne Wachau

Why don’t I drink more Grüner Veltliner? That’s the question I asked myself after attending a tasting with Domäne Wachau winemaker Heinz Frischengruber. Austria’s most significant white wine, Grüner Veltliner is racy and refreshing. Domäne Wachau’s portfolio of Grüner Veltliner, including single vineyard selections, showcases a beautiful range of wines from fresh and flirty to fuller-bodied and more nuanced.

Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Terrassen 2018 ($18) is a fantastic introduction to the varietal. The grapes were sourced from steeply terraced vineyards throughout the Wachau Valley. Crisp and refreshing with lively, but not aggressive acidity, it’s freshness and pronounced minerality make it a fantastic alternative to Sauvignon Blanc. The official tasting notes say "this wine offers distinctive aromas of green apple, white pepper, hints of mango, balanced with delicate herbal notes. This Federspiel is a traditional example of Grüner Veltliner with its medium-body crisp acidity, juicy fruits and white spice on the finish." 


Domäne Wachau is a cooperative of 250 grape farmers but winemaker and Wachau Valley native Heinz Frischengruber oversees production. In addition to his formal wine studies, Heinz also spent time in California, South Africa, and Germany and says that his time abroad helped him to become more open-minded and appreciate the importance of the philosophy of wine, not just technique.


If you really want to geek out on Grüner Veltliner, try a bottle of Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Ried Liebenberg 2018 ($25). The Liebenberg vineyard dates back to the 14th century and produces a more robust and powerful expression of Grüner Veltliner without sacrificing the signature freshness and minerality. The official tasting notes say, "the wine shows hints of ripe yellow apple, white peach, spicy notes of pepper and subtle hints of papaya; the palate is pronounced with a salty character, juicy fruit and lively acidity that complement the long lasting and powerful mouthfeel." 

If your travels take you to Austria, Domäne Wachau was ranked #19 on the 2019 list of Top 50 World's Best Vineyards. Tours and tastings are available. In addition to Grüner Veltliner, Domäne Wachau also produces a lovely range of Riesling.  

A Tantalizing and True Taste of Rioja: The Wines of Beronia

I first met Beronia winemaker and technical director Matías Calleja when he visited New York City but to begin to understand him, I had to walk the vineyards and touch the soil in Rioja, Spain. In Rioja, the soft-spoken Matías revealed another layer of his personality -- the intense passion that drives this native son to make wines that express the richness of his homeland. Energetic with a wicked sense of humor, Matías has been at Beronia since 1982, an especially impressive tenure when you consider that Beronia was founded in 1973. 


Rioja is Spain's preeminent wine region and Beronia has played an important role in it's increased recognition for quality wines and innovation. One of Matías's forward-thinking contributions is his creative use of barrels that combine French and American oak for a selection of their wines. 95% of the wines produced by Beronia are red and designed for long aging and the right oak is a crucial component in encouraging longevity. Using barrels made up of American staves and French tops allows Matías to extract the best qualities of each: the intensity of the American oak's cinnamon, vanilla, and coconut flavors are balanced by the subtlety of the French oak's clove and black pepper flavors. 

During my visit, I raced to keep up with Matías as he showed us the 32,000 barrels of wine that were in Beronia's cellars at that time. Those wines were elegantly aging and resting but there's no shortage of Beronia bottles ready for you to take them home.

And it's no surprise that Beronia's wines are incredibly food-friendly: the winery was founded by six Basque friends who loved to spend time in Rioja, wining and dining. Beronia honors this legacy by supporting the tradition of Basque gastronomic societies known as Txokos. Why not gather some friends together to cook a meal paired with a delicious glass of Beronia Rioja? The three wines listed below all showcase elegant fruit flavors that are harmonious with the oak but increase in complexity due to extended aging times. Tempranillo, the queen grape of Rioja, is the leading lady in each of these wines but is supported by small amounts of other native grapes, such as Mazuelo and Graciano. 

Beronia Crianza 2016 ($14.99)
Approachable and fresh but not wimpy, Crianza was aged for 12 months in Beronia's special mixed oak barrels made of American staves and French tops. A fantastic everyday wine with lively red fruit flavors and hints of vanilla, suggested pairings include slices of delicious Spanish jamón and other charcuterie.

Beronia Reserva 2014 ($19.99)
Crafted from a selection of the best grapes from the oldest vineyards, the influence of the oak is more prominent in the Reserva because it was aged for 20 months in combo American & French oak barrels. Another 18 months in the bottle before release adds to its balance and complexity. Rich fruit flavors are enhanced by hints of warm cinnamon and vanilla. A fantastic match with steak, roasts, and game. 

Beronia Gran Reserva 2010 ($29.99)
This bold and graceful wine shows how beautifully Beronia's wines age. Full of life, Gran Reserva is made from the best grapes from the oldest vineyards and was aged for 28 months in French oak barrels and an additional 36 months in bottle prior to release. Silky and luscious, it is an intriguing tapestry of fruit, spice, and herbal flavors. A winning match with your finest roast and mature cheeses. 


And if you need further proof that Beronia's wines age gracefully, I tasted this bottle from their very first vintage in 1973 and it was exceptional. If a friend has this bottle in their cellar, be extra nice so they share it with you.



If your travels take you to Rioja, Beronia welcomes guests for tours and tastings. Trust me, you'll love it. 

Terroir, Tradition, and a Touch of Magic: There's Something Special About Ricasoli Chianti Classico

Massimiliano Biagi (Agronomist and Technical Director) and Francesco Ricasoli (President and Owner of Ricasoli and 32nd Baron of Brolio)

It takes a person with extraordinary passion, patience, and determination to buy back their family’s business almost 20 years after it had been sold to a foreign entity. Baron Francesco Ricasoli is such a person. The Ricasoli family has been linked to wine since 1141 and they are documented as the oldest winery in Italy and the fourth oldest family business in the world. When Francesco regained ownership of their winery in 1993, he was also reclaiming Ricasoli’s esteemed position as a producer of superb Italian wines. After all, it was his great-grandfather, politician and wine visionary Bettino Ricasoli, that is credited for developing the signature Chianti blend, now called Chianti Classico. 

image courtesy of Ricasoli

Their Brolio Castle, located within the town limits of Gaiole in Chianti, sits majestically on their 3000-acre estate. 600 acres of the estate are planted to vineyards, making it the largest estate in Chianti Classico under vine. There are also 60 acres of olive groves.


In a recent tasting of Ricasoli wines, led by Francesco and the estate’s agronomist and technical director Massimiliano Biagi, I was impressed not only by the excellent quality of the wines but the diverse range of expression. Francesco described “Brolio as a magical place” and you can taste that special essence in the wines. One of the secrets to that magic is the estate’s many soil types and micro-climates.


It is also a bit magical that Francesco and Massimiliano are working together. As a little boy, Massimiliano played in front of Brolio Castle and never imagined that one day he would play such a pivotal role in creating Ricasoli’s celebrated wines.

image courtesy of Ricasoli

Ricasoli has devoted tremendous time and resources to studying the nuances of each unique zone and crafting wines that authentically express that specific terroir. They have identified 19 different soil types and all of Ricasoli’s vineyards are on hills, with altitudes ranging from about 600 to 1600 feet.

It’s no secret that I’m a big fan of Chianti Classico and Ricasoli is certainly in the top tier of quality producers. I recommend getting to know their wines with these 5 wines from 2015 and 2016, vintages that Francesco described as magical for their exceptional quality.

Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2016 ($22)
This crisp and juicy blend of Sangiovese (80%), Merlot (15%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%), is a charming introduction to the Ricasoli style. Aged for 9 months in tonneaux (large barrels), its fresh red fruit flavors, perky acidity, and smooth tannins make this an approachable but elegant expression of Chianti Classico. 



Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2016 ($30)
The Riserva has the same blend, proportions, and vintage as the Chianti Classico but was aged twice as long and spent 18 months in tonneaux. It is a bit more robust and complex hints of spice add verve to crisp and rich flavors of wild red fruit and black cherry.

Gran Selezione
Gran Selezione represents the very top tier of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid and Ricasoli produces different selections from different vineyard plots. Tasting them side by side is an excellent way to understand the impact of soil type on a wine’s flavor profile.


Ricasoli Colledilá Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($70)
A single vineyard wine, the Sangiovese grapes for Colledilá grow in soil that is very stony and rich in calcium -- one of the most representative types found in Chianti Classico. Aged for 18 months in tonneaux, Colledilà is described as “full with aromas of violet and iris coupled with ripe red fruits followed by hints of pepper and a whisper of white chocolate which give way to a full, velvety mouthfeel with soft tannins.” It also has an intense minerality and savory thread that is quite seductive.  

Ricasoli Roncione Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($85)
The soils of the Roncione vineyard contain mineral deposits from the Pliocene era. The official tasting notes describe Roncione as “intense ruby red color with garnet hues. Complex on the nose, with aromas of iris, violet and soft oaky notes. Sapid to taste, excellent acidity, which gives this Cru character and elegance. Robust finish, and aftertaste that reflects the aromas. A great expression of the Brolio marine deposit terroir.” 100% Sangiovese, Roncione’s red fruit flavors are intense and concentrated but a hint of salinity adds an energetic freshness that is quite intriguing.

Ricasoli CeniPrimo Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($85)
The Sangiovese grapes for CeniPrimo grow on the great valley of the River Arbia. The soil, which originates from an ancient river terrace dating back to the Pliocence-Pleistocene eras, is quite distinct and complex with some silty deposits, clay, and limestone. CeniPrimo is 100% Sangiovese and described as an “Intense ruby red color with slight garnet hues. Red fruits and delicate balsamic notes. Begins soft in the mouth, velvety and voluminous. The tannin is embracing, elegant and perfectly balanced with the acidity. A long, persistent finish, with character: an unique expression of Brolio’s ancient fluvial terrace.” Robust but not overwhelming, CeniPrimo has impeccable balance and energy.

Osteria di Brolio
image courtesy of Ricasoli

 If you’re planning a visit to Tuscany, Brolio Castle is one of the most celebrated destinations in wine country. Welcoming almost 50,000 visitors per year, guests can enjoy wine tastings, guided tours of the cellar and vineyards, and meals at Osteria di Brolio.


image courtesy of Ricasoli

You can also book an overnight stay at their charmingly restored 18th century farmhouse, Agriturismo Agresto. Located on a hill southwest of Brolio Castle, it is surrounded by vineyards. 

A Memory in Every Bubble: The Timeless Beauty of Champagne Taittinger

Champagne Taittinger winemaker Alexandre Ponnavoy and artistic director Vitalie Taittinger. 

If I ever felt any uncertainty that Champagne plays a starring role in in many of life’s special moments, those doubts were elegantly dissolved in a glass of Taittinger. At a recent media lunch, I watched fairly reserved wine writers get absolutely giddy as they shared Taittinger tinged memories. One couple, married for decades, passed around a precious photo from their wedding day, where a case of Taittinger was in prominent view like a VIP guest. Another writer, recently engaged, beamed as she told us that she and her fiancé had toasted their special moment with Taittinger. Old love or new love, it seems that where there’s love, there’s Taittinger.

After all, it takes a lot of love to make Champagne – the process is labor intensive and requires extreme patience. This love has inspired the Taittinger family for generations. One of the few remaining family-owned and operated Champagne houses, Taittinger doesn’t simply make bubbly; they are committed to preserving a tradition and cultural treasure.

As the bubbly and memories flowed at our media luncheon, Vitalie Taittinger (artistic director) and Alexandre Ponnavoy (winemaker) generously shared the Taittinger story. Vitalie describes her father, Pierre-Emmanuel-Taittinger, the grandson of the founder, as the “memory of the House.” Memory is an integral part of the Champagne process because each year the winemaker is challenged with creating a wine that evokes the core attributes of the house style.

We tend to use Champagne as a generic term but each house has a different style and Taittinger is unique in several ways. Unlike most large Champagne houses, Taittinger relies primarily on estate grown grapes to produce their wines, instead of depending heavily on outside growers. Taittinger also uses a higher percentage of Chardonnay grapes in their blends. Winemaker Alexandre Ponnavoy said that Chardonnay brings “energy and elegance” to the blend but that it is also important to “respect the scale” between Chardonnay and the other grapes – Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. 

I’ve been a Taittinger fan for years so it was fascinating to taste these exceptional Champagnes with Alexandre and Vitalie. Now, I have a new experience to add to the trove of beautiful memories inspired by their bubbly. To make your own special moments even more memorable, pop the cork on one of these fantastic bottles of Champagne Taittinger.

Champagne Taittinger Brut la Française NV ($64.99)
Nonvintage is always the best way to understand the style of a Champagne house. As winemaker Alexandre Ponnavoy said, this is Taittinger’s “ambassador cuvée and how you introduce the spirit of Taittinger.” What a lovely introduction. A blend of Chardonnay (40%), Pinot Noir (35%) and Pinot Meunier (25%), it contains a higher proportion of Chardonnay than other nonvintage Champagnes, which imbues it with impressive elegance and freshness. It was also aged 3-4 years on the lees, which is more than twice as long as required. This extended aging adds beautiful brioche and toasty notes that meld beautifully with the vibrant and crisp fruit flavors.


Champagne Taittinger Prestige Rosé NV ($84.99)
This quite luxurious rosé Champagne is a blend of Pinot Noir (50%), Chardonnay (30%), and Pinot Meunier (20%). Aged three years on the lees, it is full and crisp with lively flavors of red fruits, blood orange, and a hint of zest.


Champagne Taittinger Brut Millésimé 2013 ($102)
A blend of equal proportions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Taittinger only produces Brut Millésimé in exceptional vintage years.  Speaking of the 2013, Alexandre said, “There is wonderful energy in this vintage” and “lots of yellow fruit” in its aroma and taste; such as citrus, yellow grapefruit and pear. Aged for five years on the lees, it is rich yet graceful with fine bubbles and a seductively long finish.

Champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2007 ($215.99)
100% Chardonnay, this precise bubbly is powerful yet graceful. Only produced in exceptional vintage years, the Chardonnay grapes were sourced from the top vineyards of Côte des Blancs. Aged for ten years on the lees, this is a next-level Champagne that balances brightness and vivacity with tantalizing hints of exotic smoke, anise, and a kiss of salinity. A beautiful symphony of flavor!

Wine, Two, Three: Bodegas LAN Viña Lanciano Reserva 2012 Rioja

Posts titled Wine, Two, Three are quick reads that highlight key facts about one wonderful wine. Let this brief introduction inspire you to try the featured wine and explore more from that winery’s portfolio. Cheers!

"You get to know the vines better over the years and you can extract the best from each parcel."

The Winemaker: María Barúa
From an early age, María Barúa knew that winemaking was in her future. A native of Spain’s Rioja region, María's wine-loving father inspired her passion for vino. “He taught me to appreciate the great classics of Rioja. Choosing the wine that we would serve alongside Sunday lunch was a highlight of the week.” After earning degrees in chemistry and enology, María's journey led her to Bodegas LAN in 2002. She has been LAN's technical director since 2007 and is one of the few women in the region to hold the dual roles of winemaker and technical director. 

The Wine: Viña Lanciano Reserva 2012, Rioja, Spain ($24)
A blend of 90% Tempranillo, 8% Graciano, and 2% Mazuelo grapes that were hand harvested from vines planted over 30 years ago. Fermented in stainless steel and aged for a total of 42 months in a combination of French oak, Russian oak, and in the bottle. 

The Taste: Silky and smooth with vibrant flavors and aromas of red cherry, plum, and blackberry. Mineral and crisp with well-integrated tannins. A great match with stews, smoked & spicy dishes, meat carpaccios, and mature cheeses. An elegant expression of Rioja!