I first met Beronia winemaker and technical director Matías Calleja when he visited New York City but to begin to understand him, I had to walk the vineyards and touch the soil in Rioja, Spain. In Rioja, the soft-spoken Matías revealed another layer of his personality -- the intense passion that drives this native son to make wines that express the richness of his homeland. Energetic with a wicked sense of humor, Matías has been at Beronia since 1982, an especially impressive tenure when you consider that Beronia was founded in 1973.
Rioja is Spain's preeminent wine region and Beronia has played an important role in it's increased recognition for quality wines and innovation. One of Matías's forward-thinking contributions is his creative use of barrels that combine French and American oak for a selection of their wines. 95% of the wines produced by Beronia are red and designed for long aging and the right oak is a crucial component in encouraging longevity. Using barrels made up of American staves and French tops allows Matías to extract the best qualities of each: the intensity of the American oak's cinnamon, vanilla, and coconut flavors are balanced by the subtlety of the French oak's clove and black pepper flavors.
During my visit, I raced to keep up with Matías as he showed us the 32,000 barrels of wine that were in Beronia's cellars at that time. Those wines were elegantly aging and resting but there's no shortage of Beronia bottles ready for you to take them home.
And it's no surprise that Beronia's wines are incredibly food-friendly: the winery was founded by six Basque friends who loved to spend time in Rioja, wining and dining. Beronia honors this legacy by supporting the tradition of Basque gastronomic societies known as Txokos. Why not gather some friends together to cook a meal paired with a delicious glass of Beronia Rioja? The three wines listed below all showcase elegant fruit flavors that are harmonious with the oak but increase in complexity due to extended aging times. Tempranillo, the queen grape of Rioja, is the leading lady in each of these wines but is supported by small amounts of other native grapes, such as Mazuelo and Graciano. Beronia Crianza 2016 ($14.99)
Approachable and fresh but not wimpy, Crianza was aged for 12 months in Beronia's special mixed oak barrels made of American staves and French tops. A fantastic everyday wine with lively red fruit flavors and hints of vanilla, suggested pairings include slices of delicious Spanish jamón and other charcuterie.
Beronia Reserva 2014 ($19.99)
Crafted from a selection of the best grapes from the oldest vineyards, the influence of the oak is more prominent in the Reserva because it was aged for 20 months in combo American & French oak barrels. Another 18 months in the bottle before release adds to its balance and complexity. Rich fruit flavors are enhanced by hints of warm cinnamon and vanilla. A fantastic match with steak, roasts, and game.
Beronia Gran Reserva 2010 ($29.99)
This bold and graceful wine shows how beautifully Beronia's wines age. Full of life, Gran Reserva is made from the best grapes from the oldest vineyards and was aged for 28 months in French oak barrels and an additional 36 months in bottle prior to release. Silky and luscious, it is an intriguing tapestry of fruit, spice, and herbal flavors. A winning match with your finest roast and mature cheeses.
And if you need further proof that Beronia's wines age gracefully, I tasted this bottle from their very first vintage in 1973 and it was exceptional. If a friend has this bottle in their cellar, be extra nice so they share it with you.
If your travels take you to Rioja, Beronia welcomes guests for tours and tastings. Trust me, you'll love it.
