Living la vida Somontano! A spread of fresh and authentic Spanish cuisine paired with Secastilla Garnacha in their stunning vineyard in Somontano.
Traveling in the name of wine brings so much joy to my life but sometimes writing about the places and people that have secured a place in my wine-loving heart is a daunting task. Finding the right words to adequately describe a transcendent moment can feel like an exercise in futility. Call me melodramatic, but this is how I feel as I stare at my computer screen and struggle to write about my recent visit to Viñas del Vero winery in the Somontano region of Spain. Write, delete. Write, delete. Remembering the advice of an old boss that told me more than once, "Wanda, sometimes done is better than perfect," I plunge ahead. Imperfectly yet passionately, here I go!
Let's start with some key facts. Somontano is located in the northeast of Spain at the foot of the Pyrenees, in the province of Huesca in Aragón. Somontano means "beneath the mountain" and the Pyrenees mountains provide a natural border with France. Viñas del Vero, one of Somontano's most important and celebrated producers, is part of the prestigious González Byass family of wineries. Elegant, rich, and refreshing La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha Blanca 2017 (around $17) is a charming expression of the complex flavors of the grapes grown in Viñas del Vero's high-altitude Secastilla vineyard.
These 2008, 2013, and 2018 vintages of Viñas del Vero Chardonnay showcased the aging capacity of these well-made wines from Somontano.
Somontano stands out not only for producing some of Spain's highest quality wines but also for its incredible viticultural diversity. Somontano's unique terroir makes it ideal for growing a wide variety of grapes, including Garnacha, Gerwürztraminer, Chardonnay, Merlot, and more. Few places in Spain can match Somontano's powerful two-punch of quality & diversity. Whenever I recommend wines from Somontano, Viñas del Vero's diverse portfolio of wines tops my list.
Secastilla
One of Viñas del Vero's most precious treasures is their old-vine, high-altitude vineyard in Secastilla valley, in the far north-eastern limits of Somontano. I first visited Secastilla in 2017 and have been blessed with the opportunity to return two more times -- most recently in the spring of 2019. Secastilla is a place that both soothes and exhilarates my soul. For me, Secastilla expresses the essence and power of wine as a source of pleasure and peace. Vines were first planted here by the Romans in the 1st century BC and the name Secastilla references the seven castles that once dominated the landscape.
"Apart from being a way of life, the best thing about wine is the passion or the hook it puts in you. It is not only work, but enjoyment."
José Ferrer, winemaker and manager, Viñas del Vero
I've become such a familiar face at Viñas del Vero's winery and vineyard, winemaker and general manager José Ferrer joked that perhaps I should lead the tour instead of him. A winemaking genius, José is humble and charming. I never tire of hearing about his elaborate barrel aging process for their high end Blecua wines or climbing the steep slopes of Secastilla and touching the 100-year-old vines that are the foundation of their award-winning Garnacha. José's connection to this land is authentic and intense. He never imagined that one day he would lead winemaking in the same vineyards he wandered as a child. José is absolutely sincere when he says that he wants all of Viñas del Vero's wines to be an expression of their land. He could never imagine doing it any other way; Somontano is in his soul.
Old Garnacha vine at Secastilla
More than once I've joked with friends that should I ever run away, chances are that you'll find me in Spain, and Somontano is one of the first places they should look! Just a few hours by car from Barcelona, I highly recommend a visit to Somontano and time at Viñas del Vero is a must. They have a wonderful tasting room and their visitor experiences include tastings and vineyard tours, including by Segway. During the harvest season, guests can experience the incredible process of picking and pressing grapes.
Of course, you don't have to cross the ocean to get a taste of Viñas del Vero's wines. You can take your palate on a tasting adventure to Somontano from the comfort of your living room.
La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha 2016 is an excellent introduction to the house style. Crafted from high-altitude old vines; its purity of expression and elegant concentration of flavor is impressive. Wonderful now, this wine has the structure needed to age beautifully. This wine has quite a legacy -- the 2012 vintage was honored as the Best Red Wine in Spain at the International Wine Challenge.
I must confess to an obsession with Blecua. I don't only consider it one of Spain's most impressive wines, it's a tremendous wine by any measure. José considers Blecua 2010 the finest wine he has ever made. and said, "Keeping in mind that it is a wine with two years of aging and that is made with the best of the best of the best of the best. It is not only a wine of the vineyard, but also of the winery. It requires a lot of reflection on what to save and what to give up. It is a winemaker´s wine." First produced in 1997 and only in the best vintages, for me Blecua is the wine that best expresses Somontano's ability to produce world-class and awe-inspiring wines.
Smiles and wines are in abundance whenever I see José Ferrer on my visits to Somontano! His talent, passion, and connection to the region imbue the wines of Viñas del Vero with authentic character.
I stand by the words I wrote in 2017 when I tasted Blecua for the first time. "Like an artist working with a palette, José approaches Blecua creatively and the red blend changes with each vintage. Blecua involves a triple selection process of choosing the best vineyard sites, best grape bunches, and the best barrels. Barrel selection is an integral part of the Blecua process and José experiments with aging the grapes in French and American oak with varying levels of char before making the final selection. The end result is a sophisticated wine with tremendous approachability and aging ability." What's changed since then is that Blecua is now available in the United States - thank goodness!
The beauty of the Viñas del Vero portfolio is that it truly has a wine for every mood, meal, and budget. Whether you are enjoying a simple picnic or haute cuisine, their wines enhance the experience. Only time will tell if my travels will bring me back to Somontano again but I know the region's wines, especially those from Viñas del Vero, will always be a part of my life. Authentic and delicious, each sip keeps me connected to a place in Spain that has become very special to me.
To learn more about Somontano and Viñas del Vero, read my articles Seduced By Somontano: My Unforgettable Wine Adventure in Spain and All Roads Lead to Garnacha: A Wine Lover's Journey Through Spain and France.
