Have you ever noticed the snazzy Black Rooster motif on a bottle of Chianti Classico? More than just a trademark, the bold logo has a rich history that dates back to medieval times. Legend has it that the crafty use of a hungry black rooster as an alarm clock gave Florence an advantage over Siena in an ongoing turf war for the Chianti region. Poultry prevailed and almost all of Chianti became part of the Republic of Florence.
No actual roosters were sighted on my recent visit to Florence but the Gallo Nero logo was proudly displayed when I attended Chianti Classico Collection 2019, the annual grand tasting. From iconic wineries to newer players, almost 200 Chianti Classico producers, with more than 700 labels, showcased the fermented fruits of their labor at the stunning Stazione Leopolda, a former train station. Wine trade from around the globe descended upon Florence to swirl, sip, schmooze, and voice their opinion.
My verdict: Chianti Classico is better than ever. The level of quality, consistency, and sheer drinkability is at an all-time high. From annata (vintage) to Riserva to Gran Selezione, I was blown away by the stellar quality represented by every tier of the Chianti Classico pyramid. Chatting with the producers, it became abundantly clear that they have invested tremendous energy and resources in elevating the quality of their wines. Each winemaker I met was passionate about crafting wines that authentically represent their land and offer a pure expression of Sangiovese; the grape that is the foundation of Chianti Classico.
map courtesy of Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico
It is important to note that Chianti Classico is not a monolith and its 177,500 acres are composed of several sub-appellations. According to the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, these include the entire territories of the municipalities of Castellina in Chianti, Gaiole in Chianti, Greve in Chianti and Radda in Chianti and parts of Barberino Tavarnelle, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Poggibonsi, and San Casciano Val di Pesa. These aren’t just geographical distinctions; the micro-climates and soil types of each region have an impact on the wine’s attributes. It is also extremely important to always remember that although Chianti Classico and Chianti are both Sangiovese based wines, they are two distinct DOCG's with different production regulations and zones.
To take Chianti Classico for granted is a huge mistake. Maybe it’s not the hot and trendy new wine region but Chianti Classico is not stagnant. It does not embrace tradition at the expense of innovation; Chianti Classico excels at both. For example, the 2013 introduction of Gran Selezione to the very top of the quality pyramid is reserved exclusively for Chianti Classico produced from the finest grapes from a single vineyard and these wines must be aged a minimum of 30 months, including 3 months in bottle. The quality of these wines is exceptional.
Yes, these technical details of winemaking are important but during my time at the Chianti Classico Collection 2019 I was also impressed and enchanted by the people that I met. The level of camaraderie between the winemakers and their mutual respect for one another reminded me that competitors don’t have to be enemies. More than once, I heard a winemaker sing the praises of another and they would encourage me to taste the wines of their peers too, sometimes even walking me to their table. That’s genuine camaraderie and further proof that wine really is a bridge that brings people together.
Maybe you haven’t had Chianti Classico in a while -- now is the time to get reacquainted. Many of the wines are affordably priced and stellar quality can be found at all levels. So the next time you’re looking for a great bottle of wine to share with friends, I encourage you to choose a bottle of Chianti Classico. It’s impossible for me to highlight every producer but here are four of the fabulous people that I chatted with in Florence. Two of the wineries were familiar to me, and two were new discoveries, but they all make fantastic Chianti Classico.
Forgive me for sounding like a broken record; nearly every time that I’ve written about 4th generation wine producer Andrea Cecchi I’ve described him as the quintessential Tuscan gentleman. He is. I’ve had the pleasure of tasting wine with Andrea on his visits to NYC but seeing him in Florence was pure joy! The Cecchi family’s elegant wines represent the beautiful diversity of Chianti Classico. After all, they do have more than 125 years of winemaking experience; Sangiovese runs in their veins! I’m a big fan of their Cecchi Valore di Famiglia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($59.99) from their estate in Castellina in Chianti.100% Sangiovese, it is velvety and vibrant with exemplary purity and balance.
It wouldn’t be exaggerating to say that from the moment I arrived in Florence, I wandered around searching for Luigi Cappellini. I first met Luigi in 2016 when he and his lovely wife Silvia hosted a tasting of their wines in New York City. I was instantly enchanted by their warm personalities and beautiful wines. In 1958, the Cappellini family acquired this historic estate in Greve in Chianti that once belonged to the family of famed explorer Giovanni da Verrazzano. Castello di Verrazzano is a founding member of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico and the estate is certified organic. Try their Chianti Classico DOCG 2016 ($26). A beautiful expression of a classic Chianti Classico, it has power and finesse.
Guido Carissimo, the founder of Carus kept me laughing when I stopped by his table in Florence. But make no mistake, Guido is very serious about his wines. Guido founded Carus in the mid 1990’s and is committed to producing terroir-driven wines with care and creativity. Located in San Casciano in Val di Pesa, their olive groves and grape vineyards are organically farmed. Their Baldéro Chianti Classico DOCG 2013 ($20) is mostly Sangiovese with a small amount of Merlot. Aged almost entirely in stainless steel, this snappy red is impressively crisp and fresh.
One of the many things that I love about winemaking is that it is often a multi-generational family affair. Gregorio Boscu Bianchi Bandinelli and his father Andrea were working side by side at the Chianti Classico Collection 2019 to share their family’s Villa di Geggiano wines. Villa di Geggiano has been the family home and winery of the Bianchi Bandinelli family since 1527. Their vineyards are located in the southern part of the Chianti Classico region in the municipality of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Some Italian friends told me that I absolutely must try the Villa di Geggiano wines and I’m so glad I did. A blend of 97% Sangiovese and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon their Villa di Geggiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2012 ($45) is elegant, balanced, and full of life.
