A winery’s reputation isn’t built on just one great vintage. Just like human beings, some years may be better than others, but it’s the total timeline that truly tells the story. Founded more than 100 years ago by Georges de Latour, the story of Beaulieu Vineyard certainly has more highs than lows. If you love Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley, tip your hat to Beaulieu. Since its inaugural vintage in 1936, Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon has been recognized as the benchmark Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa’s Rutherford appellation. When we talk about “cult” Cabernet, Beaulieu was the originator.
"Early in my winemaking career, I recall trying the 1968 Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon with a family friend and it not only left an indelible impression on me, but it shaped the path in which I wanted to take my career and the wines I wanted to create." - Trevor Durling, General Manager and Chief Winemaker, Beaulieu Vineyard
In a recent retrospective tasting with Beaulieu’s general manager and chief winemaker, Trevor Durling, I was humbled and amazed by the power of these wines to transmit a story through the ages. And my belief in the power of wine to change lives was validated -- it was a glass of 1968 Beaulieu that inspired Trevor's winemaking path. Trevor calls the 1968 his epiphany wine. Today, Trevor is only the fifth chief winemaker in Beaulieu’s 119-year history, following in the footsteps of his respected immediate predecessor Jeffrey Tambor and the iconic André Tchelistcheff.
Lured to wine by the combination of art, science, and agriculture, Trevor holds deep reverence for Beaulieu’s rich legacy and said, “It is an honor to craft wines off of these vineyards. They are some of the most historic in Napa.” But Trevor is also “excited to write the next chapter” and recognizes the role that state-of-the-art technology can play in crafting wines that consistently live up to the Beaulieu standard.
In my retrospective tasting with Trevor, we sampled a jaw-dropping selection of wines from the 1960’s – 2010’s. Words rarely fail me but it is daunting to describe the experience of traveling the decades through fine wine. The older vintages reminded me that wine is more than a beverage but a meditation on time. For example, at 51 years old, the 1968 vintage triggered a flood of thoughts. What was happening in the world that year? What was the harvest like? We do know that winemaker André Tchelistcheff called 1968 “the greatest vintage” due to its ideal growing conditions. And the 1968 is the wine that ignited the spark in Trevor to seriously pursue winemaking. Incredibly alive and exuberant with astounding acidity, I understand why Trevor was so moved by this wine. It has not only stood the test of time but has evolved in an extraordinary fashion. I think it will still be fantastic years from now.
The 1968 is absolutely exceptional but that is only one chapter of the Beaulieu story. A retrospective encourages you to look for connections through the ages. While each Beaulieu vintage that we tasted had unique qualities that reflected that particular harvest, winemaking technique, and approach of the winemaker; there was also a beautiful consistency that connected these wines and made it abundantly clear that they were from the same place and part of a larger vision. Across the board, from the 1960’s – the 2010’s, I found that the vast majority of the Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon shared some similar traits: luscious and rich fruit flavors, beautifully integrated oak, and mouthwatering acidity that keeps the wine alive through the decades. And, in some vintages, those fine and powdery cocoa tannins known as Rutherford Dust are practically cooing your name from the glass.
The 2016 Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($145), the 80th anniversary vintage, is now available. 2016 was considered a winemaker’s dream vintage and the wine displays impeccable balance and finesse. Cabernet Sauvignon (97%) with a kiss of Petit Verdot (3%), it was aged for 22 months in French oak barrels. Concentrated and bold but not flabby, the 2016 has rich dark berry flavors with tantalizing tinges of spice and chocolate. And that famed Rutherford Dust shimmies in each sip. The 2016 is beautiful now but I hope that the fates will afford me to opportunity to sip it again, many decades from now, so that I can take another journey through time.
