Wine With Wanda

Time Traveling Through Wine: A Journey Through the Decades with Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

A winery’s reputation isn’t built on just one great vintage. Just like human beings, some years may be better than others, but it’s the total timeline that truly tells the story. Founded more than 100 years ago by Georges de Latour, the story of Beaulieu Vineyard certainly has more highs than lows. If you love Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley, tip your hat to Beaulieu. Since its inaugural vintage in 1936, Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon has been recognized as the benchmark Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa’s Rutherford appellation. When we talk about “cult” Cabernet, Beaulieu was the originator.

"Early in my winemaking career, I recall trying the 1968 Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon with a family friend and it not only left an indelible impression on me, but it shaped the path in which I wanted to take my career and the wines I wanted to create." - Trevor Durling, General Manager and Chief Winemaker, Beaulieu Vineyard 

In a recent retrospective tasting with Beaulieu’s general manager and chief winemaker, Trevor Durling, I was humbled and amazed by the power of these wines to transmit a story through the ages. And my belief in the power of wine to change lives was validated -- it was a glass of 1968 Beaulieu that inspired Trevor's winemaking path. Trevor calls the 1968 his epiphany wine. Today, Trevor is only the fifth chief winemaker in Beaulieu’s 119-year history, following in the footsteps of his respected immediate predecessor Jeffrey Tambor and the iconic André Tchelistcheff.

Lured to wine by the combination of art, science, and agriculture, Trevor holds deep reverence for Beaulieu’s rich legacy and said, “It is an honor to craft wines off of these vineyards. They are some of the most historic in Napa.” But Trevor is also “excited to write the next chapter” and recognizes the role that state-of-the-art technology can play in crafting wines that consistently live up to the Beaulieu standard.

In my retrospective tasting with Trevor, we sampled a jaw-dropping selection of wines from the 1960’s – 2010’s. Words rarely fail me but it is daunting to describe the experience of traveling the decades through fine wine. The older vintages reminded me that wine is more than a beverage but a meditation on time. For example, at 51 years old, the 1968 vintage triggered a flood of thoughts. What was happening in the world that year? What was the harvest like? We do know that winemaker André Tchelistcheff called 1968 “the greatest vintage” due to its ideal growing conditions. And the 1968 is the wine that ignited the spark in Trevor to seriously pursue winemaking. Incredibly alive and exuberant with astounding acidity, I understand why Trevor was so moved by this wine. It has not only stood the test of time but has evolved in an extraordinary fashion. I think it will still be fantastic years from now.

The 1968 is absolutely exceptional but that is only one chapter of the Beaulieu story. A retrospective encourages you to look for connections through the ages. While each Beaulieu vintage that we tasted had unique qualities that reflected that particular harvest, winemaking technique, and approach of the winemaker; there was also a beautiful consistency that connected these wines and made it abundantly clear that they were from the same place and part of a larger vision. Across the board, from the 1960’s – the 2010’s, I found that the vast majority of the Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon shared some similar traits: luscious and rich fruit flavors, beautifully integrated oak, and mouthwatering acidity that keeps the wine alive through the decades. And, in some vintages, those fine and powdery cocoa tannins known as Rutherford Dust are practically cooing your name from the glass.

The 2016 Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($145), the 80th anniversary vintage, is now available. 2016 was considered a winemaker’s dream vintage and the wine displays impeccable balance and finesse. Cabernet Sauvignon (97%) with a kiss of Petit Verdot (3%), it was aged for 22 months in French oak barrels. Concentrated and bold but not flabby, the 2016 has rich dark berry flavors with tantalizing tinges of spice and chocolate. And that famed Rutherford Dust shimmies in each sip. The 2016 is beautiful now but I hope that the fates will afford me to opportunity to sip it again, many decades from now, so that I can take another journey through time.

Bet on the Black Rooster: Drink More Chianti Classico!

Have you ever noticed the snazzy Black Rooster motif on a bottle of Chianti Classico? More than just a trademark, the bold logo has a rich history that dates back to medieval times. Legend has it that the crafty use of a hungry black rooster as an alarm clock gave Florence an advantage over Siena in an ongoing turf war for the Chianti region. Poultry prevailed and almost all of Chianti became part of the Republic of Florence.  


No actual roosters were sighted on my recent visit to Florence but the Gallo Nero logo was proudly displayed when I attended Chianti Classico Collection 2019, the annual grand tasting. From iconic wineries to newer players, almost 200 Chianti Classico producers, with more than 700 labels, showcased the fermented fruits of their labor at the stunning Stazione Leopolda, a former train station. Wine trade from around the globe descended upon Florence to swirl, sip, schmooze, and voice their opinion.

My verdict: Chianti Classico is better than ever. The level of quality, consistency, and sheer drinkability is at an all-time high. From annata (vintage) to Riserva to Gran Selezione, I was blown away by the stellar quality represented by every tier of the Chianti Classico pyramid. Chatting with the producers, it became abundantly clear that they have invested tremendous energy and resources in elevating the quality of their wines. Each winemaker I met was passionate about crafting wines that authentically represent their land and offer a pure expression of Sangiovese; the grape that is the foundation of Chianti Classico.


map courtesy of Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico 

It is important to note that Chianti Classico is not a monolith and its 177,500 acres are composed of several sub-appellations. According to the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, these include the entire territories of the municipalities of Castellina in Chianti, Gaiole in Chianti, Greve in Chianti and Radda in Chianti and parts of Barberino Tavarnelle, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Poggibonsi, and San Casciano Val di Pesa. These aren’t just geographical distinctions; the micro-climates and soil types of each region have an impact on the wine’s attributes. It is also extremely important to always remember that although Chianti Classico and Chianti are both Sangiovese based wines, they are two distinct DOCG's with different production regulations and zones.

To take Chianti Classico for granted is a huge mistake. Maybe it’s not the hot and trendy new wine region but Chianti Classico is not stagnant. It does not embrace tradition at the expense of innovation; Chianti Classico excels at both. For example, the 2013 introduction of Gran Selezione to the very top of the quality pyramid is reserved exclusively for Chianti Classico produced from the finest grapes from a single vineyard and these wines must be aged a minimum of 30 months, including 3 months in bottle. The quality of these wines is exceptional. 

Yes, these technical details of winemaking are important but during my time at the Chianti Classico Collection 2019 I was also impressed and enchanted by the people that I met. The level of camaraderie between the winemakers and their mutual respect for one another reminded me that competitors don’t have to be enemies. More than once, I heard a winemaker sing the praises of another and they would encourage me to taste the wines of their peers too, sometimes even walking me to their table. That’s genuine camaraderie and further proof that wine really is a bridge that brings people together.

Maybe you haven’t had Chianti Classico in a while -- now is the time to get reacquainted. Many of the wines are affordably priced and stellar quality can be found at all levels. So the next time you’re looking for a great bottle of wine to share with friends, I encourage you to choose a bottle of Chianti Classico. It’s impossible for me to highlight every producer but here are four of the fabulous people that I chatted with in Florence. Two of the wineries were familiar to me, and two were new discoveries, but they all make fantastic Chianti Classico.

Forgive me for sounding like a broken record; nearly every time that I’ve written about 4th generation wine producer Andrea Cecchi I’ve described him as the quintessential Tuscan gentleman. He is. I’ve had the pleasure of tasting wine with Andrea on his visits to NYC but seeing him in Florence was pure joy! The Cecchi family’s elegant wines represent the beautiful diversity of Chianti Classico. After all, they do have more than 125 years of winemaking experience; Sangiovese runs in their veins! I’m a big fan of their Cecchi Valore di Famiglia Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 ($59.99) from their estate in Castellina in Chianti.100% Sangiovese, it is velvety and vibrant with exemplary purity and balance.


It wouldn’t be exaggerating to say that from the moment I arrived in Florence, I wandered around searching for Luigi Cappellini. I first met Luigi in 2016 when he and his lovely wife Silvia hosted a tasting of their wines in New York City. I was instantly enchanted by their warm personalities and beautiful wines. In 1958, the Cappellini family acquired this historic estate in Greve in Chianti that once belonged to the family of famed explorer Giovanni da Verrazzano. Castello di Verrazzano is a founding member of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico and the estate is certified organic. Try their Chianti Classico DOCG 2016 ($26). A beautiful expression of a classic Chianti Classico, it has power and finesse. 

Guido Carissimo, the founder of Carus kept me laughing when I stopped by his table in Florence. But make no mistake, Guido is very serious about his wines. Guido founded Carus in the mid 1990’s and is committed to producing terroir-driven wines with care and creativity. Located in San Casciano in Val di Pesa, their olive groves and grape vineyards are organically farmed. Their Baldéro Chianti Classico DOCG 2013 ($20) is mostly Sangiovese with a small amount of Merlot. Aged almost entirely in stainless steel, this snappy red is impressively crisp and fresh.

One of the many things that I love about winemaking is that it is often a multi-generational family affair. Gregorio Boscu Bianchi Bandinelli and his father Andrea were working side by side at the Chianti Classico Collection 2019 to share their family’s Villa di Geggiano wines. Villa di Geggiano has been the family home and winery of the Bianchi Bandinelli family since 1527. Their vineyards are located in the southern part of the Chianti Classico region in the municipality of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Some Italian friends told me that I absolutely must try the Villa di Geggiano wines and I’m so glad I did. A blend of 97% Sangiovese and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon their Villa di Geggiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2012 ($45) is elegant, balanced, and full of life.

Explore the Beauty of Portuguese Wine with Esporão

image courtesy of Esporão 

Portugal is all the rage but it isn’t cool just because some hipsters have suddenly “discovered” Lisbon’s colorful streets and Alentejo’s wide open spaces. Portugal’s cool quotient spans centuries and their rich wine culture is a big part of its irresistible Iberian appeal. If you find Portuguese wines a bit puzzling, Esporão is a delicious starting point. Founded in 1973 on an estate with a 750-year history, Esporão’s portfolio includes wines crafted from indigenous and international grapes grown at their estates in the Douro Valley and the Alentejo region. A leader in sustainability, Esporão is committed to organic practices and is on track to be 100% organically certified by 2021.

Master Sommelier and Esporão enthusiast Alex LaPratt

I’ve been a fan of Esporão’s wines for several years and even visited their impressive Alentejo estate in 2018. Earlier this summer in Manhattan, my palate revisited those Portuguese memories at a tasting led by Alex LaPratt, Master Sommelier. Inspired by Portugal’s June 10th national holiday, Portugal Day, our celebration was cheekily deemed Esporão Day. But you don’t need to wait for an official holiday to explore these wonderful wines. Esporäo has an incredibly rich portfolio so I recommend trying one of these four fantastic bottles.

Assobio Branco 2018, Douro, $13
You can't go wrong with this flirty and fresh white blend of Viosinho, Verdelho, Rabigato, Gouveio, and Códega do Larinho grapes from the highest and steepest hillside at Quinta dos Murças. The name Assobio refers to the whistling sound made by the wind as it travels through the hilltop vineyards. Perky acidity and minerality add texture to its flavors of fresh lime, passionfruit, and honeydew.

Esporão Reserva Branco 2017, Alentejo, $18
The very first wine produced by Esporão, this rich white wine is a blend of Antão Vaz, Arinto, and Roupeiro. Aged in stainless steel and new French and American oak, its vibrant lemon and grapefruit flavors are revved up by hints of cream and spice. Big and bold but not bulky.  

Quinta dos Murças Minas Tinto 2017, Douro, $25
Minas means spring in Portuguese and this red wine’s name was inspired by the five cool water springs that cool the vineyards. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Francisca, Tinta Roriz, and Tinta Cão grapes that were aged in concrete vats and used French oak casks for 9 months, it is full, ripe, and fresh with a harmonious interplay between flavors of red fruit, slate, and earth.

Esporão Colheita Tinto 2017, Alentejo, $16
Estate grown Aragonez, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Touriga Franca grapes were aged for 6 months in tulip-shaped concrete tanks to craft this silky and juicy red with charming black plum and currant flavors with a kiss of white pepper.  

Elegant, Exciting, Enduring: Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino

Tasting wine with Count Francesco Marone Cinzano is a sure-fire way to banish boredom. Bold and elegant with a quick wit, Cinzano and his wines never fail to captivate. I’ve sipped wine with Cinzano several times over the years at events in New York City and I finally had the pleasure of visiting his acclaimed winery, Col d’Orcia, when I was in Italy several months ago for the Brunello di Montalcino anteprima to preview the 2014 vintage.

Col d'Orcia vineyards
image courtesy of Col d'Orcia

A picturesque Tuscan hilltop town located south of Siena, Montalcino is the birthplace of one of Italy’s most revered wines, Brunello di Montalcino. Should I ever leave my cozy Manhattan apartment for more spacious digs, rest assured that my wine cellar would be well stocked with Brunello di Montalcino. Crafted from Sangiovese, which is known locally as Brunello, Brunello di Montalcino is an incredibly expressive and delicious red wine that ages beautifully.

At a dinner hosted by Cinzano at his country home on the Col d’Orcia estate, I experienced first-hand Brunello di Montalcino’s impressive longevity when he surprised us with bottles of rare vintages from 1969 and 1979.

Artful winemaking and the natural acidity of the Sangiovese grapes imbue Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino with a natural freshness that endures for decades. Located on a hill overlooking the Orcia river that inspired its name, Col d’Orcia is the largest certified organic estate in Tuscany and they have designated themselves “an organic island in Montalcino”.  

But you don’t have to wait decades or travel to Montalcino to enjoy these gorgeous wines. Take your palate on a elegant Tuscan journey with Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2014 ($59). 

Aged three years in oak and another year in the bottle, it is a classic expression of Brunello – complex and full but beautifully balanced. By Brunello standards, 2014 is still considered a young wine so if your budget permits, buy one to enjoy now and tuck a few away to revisit over the years to experience the evolution of the wine. 

I also recommend Col d’Orcia Rosso di Montalcino 2016 ($29). Aged for 12 months in Slavonian oak casks, it is a younger and fresher expression of Sangiovese with charming fruit flavors and a kiss of spice.

 

Soul, Style, Somontano: Viñas del Vero's Wines Are an Intriguing Taste of Spain

 Living la vida Somontano! A spread of fresh and authentic Spanish cuisine paired with Secastilla Garnacha in their stunning vineyard in Somontano. 

Traveling in the name of wine brings so much joy to my life but sometimes writing about the places and people that have secured a place in my wine-loving heart is a daunting task. Finding the right words to adequately describe a transcendent moment can feel like an exercise in futility. Call me melodramatic, but this is how I feel as I stare at my computer screen and struggle to write about my recent visit to Viñas del Vero winery in the Somontano region of Spain. Write, delete. Write, delete. Remembering the advice of an old boss that told me more than once, "Wanda, sometimes done is better than perfect," I plunge ahead. Imperfectly yet passionately, here I go! 

Let's start with some key facts. Somontano is located in the northeast of Spain at the foot of the Pyrenees, in the province of Huesca in Aragón. Somontano means "beneath the mountain" and the Pyrenees mountains provide a natural border with France. Viñas del Vero, one of Somontano's most important and celebrated producers, is part of the prestigious González Byass family of wineries. 

Elegant, rich, and refreshing La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha Blanca 2017 (around $17) is a charming expression of the complex flavors of the grapes grown in Viñas del Vero's high-altitude Secastilla vineyard. 

These 2008, 2013, and 2018 vintages of Viñas del Vero Chardonnay showcased the aging capacity of these well-made wines from Somontano. 

Somontano stands out not only for producing some of Spain's highest quality wines but also for its incredible viticultural diversity. Somontano's unique terroir makes it ideal for growing a wide variety of grapes, including Garnacha, Gerwürztraminer, Chardonnay, Merlot, and more. Few places in Spain can match Somontano's powerful two-punch of quality & diversity. Whenever I recommend wines from Somontano, Viñas del Vero's diverse portfolio of wines tops my list. 

Secastilla

One of Viñas del Vero's most precious treasures is their old-vine, high-altitude vineyard in Secastilla valley, in the far north-eastern limits of Somontano. I first visited Secastilla in 2017 and have been blessed with the opportunity to return two more times -- most recently in the spring of 2019. Secastilla is a place that both soothes and exhilarates my soul. For me, Secastilla expresses the essence and power of wine as a source of pleasure and peace. Vines were first planted here by the Romans in the 1st century BC and the name Secastilla references the seven castles that once dominated the landscape. 

"Apart from being a way of life, the best thing about wine is the passion or the hook it puts in you. It is not only work, but enjoyment." 
José Ferrer, winemaker and manager, Viñas del Vero

I've become such a familiar face at Viñas del Vero's winery and vineyard, winemaker and general manager José Ferrer joked that perhaps I should lead the tour instead of him. A winemaking genius, José is humble and charming. I never tire of hearing about his elaborate barrel aging process for their high end Blecua wines or climbing the steep slopes of Secastilla and touching the 100-year-old vines that are the foundation of their award-winning Garnacha. José's connection to this land is authentic and intense. He never imagined that one day he would lead winemaking in the same vineyards he wandered as a child. José is absolutely sincere when he says that he wants all of Viñas del Vero's wines to be an expression of their land. He could never imagine doing it any other way; Somontano is in his soul.

Old Garnacha vine at Secastilla

More than once I've joked with friends that should I ever run away, chances are that you'll find me in Spain, and Somontano is one of the first places they should look! Just a few hours by car from Barcelona, I highly recommend a visit to Somontano and time at Viñas del Vero is a must. They have a wonderful tasting room and their visitor experiences include tastings and vineyard tours, including by Segway. During the harvest season, guests can experience the incredible process of picking and pressing grapes. 

Of course, you don't have to cross the ocean to get a taste of Viñas del Vero's wines. You can take your palate on a tasting adventure to Somontano from the comfort of your living room. 


La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha 2016 is an excellent introduction to the house style. Crafted from high-altitude old vines; its purity of expression and elegant concentration of flavor is impressive. Wonderful now, this wine has the structure needed to age beautifully. This wine has quite a legacy -- the 2012 vintage was honored as the Best Red Wine in Spain at the International Wine Challenge.  

I must confess to an obsession with Blecua. I don't only consider it one of Spain's most impressive wines, it's a tremendous wine by any measure. José considers Blecua 2010 the finest wine he has ever made. and said, "Keeping in mind that it is a wine with two years of aging and that is made with the best of the best of the best of the best. It is not only a wine of the vineyard, but also of the winery. It requires a lot of reflection on what to save and what to give up. It is a winemaker´s wine." First produced in 1997 and only in the best vintages, for me Blecua is the wine that best expresses Somontano's ability to produce world-class and awe-inspiring wines.

Smiles and wines are in abundance whenever I see José Ferrer on my visits to Somontano! His talent, passion, and connection to the region imbue the wines of Viñas del Vero with authentic character. 

I stand by the words I wrote in 2017 when I tasted Blecua for the first time. "Like an artist working with a palette, José approaches Blecua creatively and the red blend changes with each vintage. Blecua involves a triple selection process of choosing the best vineyard sites, best grape bunches, and the best barrels. Barrel selection is an integral part of the Blecua process and José experiments with aging the grapes in French and American oak with varying levels of char before making the final selection. The end result is a sophisticated wine with tremendous approachability and aging ability." What's changed since then is that Blecua is now available in the United States - thank goodness! 

The beauty of the Viñas del Vero portfolio is that it truly has a wine for every mood, meal, and budget. Whether you are enjoying a simple picnic or haute cuisine, their wines enhance the experience. Only time will tell if my travels will bring me back to Somontano again but I know the region's wines, especially those from Viñas del Vero, will always be a part of my life. Authentic and delicious, each sip keeps me connected to a place in Spain that has become very special to me. 

To learn more about Somontano and Viñas del Vero, read my articles Seduced By Somontano: My Unforgettable Wine Adventure in Spain and All Roads Lead to Garnacha: A Wine Lover's Journey Through Spain and France.