Not far from Barcelona's bustling boulevards and ancient alleyways, a wine lover's adventure awaits you in Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, the heart and soul of Cava production. More than a wine made in the same labor intensive method as Champagne, Cava proudly stands on its own as a sparkling wine. Cava has a Catalan soul and expresses its unique terroir and traditions. I recently had the pleasure of experiencing this first-hand on a recent visit to Vilarnau.
Founded in 1949, in 1982 Vilarnau became part of the prestigious Gonzàlez Byass family of wineries. Located just an hour from Barcelona, Vilarnau is one of about 100 Cava houses in Sant Sadurní d'Anoia but they are perhaps the most expressive of their connection to Catalunya's capital city -- their bottles proudly say Vilarnau Barcelona. Their portfolio even includes bottles with graphics inspired by the iconic Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí. Who truly knows when Gaudí's Sagrada Família will be finished but trust me, you'll have no problems polishing off a bottle of delicious Vilarnau Cava!image courtesy of Vilarnau
A visit to Vilarnau is a fantastic day-trip from Barcelona and the winery offers a wide variety of activities. While traditional tours and tastings are available, Vilarnau steps it up many notches with tours by Segway, motorized bike, or even helicopter. However you choose to tour Vilarnau's vineyards, seeing the vines provides tremendous context to the wines you will taste. And if you really want to have a hands-on experience in the vineyards, Vilarnau will happily put you to work grape treading and pruning, during season.
My guide for the day was the bubbly and knowledgable Eva Plazas Torné, technical director and a member of the winemaking team at Vilarnau. A native of Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, Eva grew up surrounded by Cava and her life experience is complemented by her degree in agricultural engineering. From the vineyards to the cellar, Eva was a priceless source of information and her enthusiasm is contagious. Meeting Eva reminded me that everyone should have a career that brings them so much joy and also brings happiness to those around them. (I love my job but maybe in my next life I could make Cava?)
Cava Vilarnau Brut Reserva ($14.99) is a fantastic introduction to their style. A classic blend of Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarel-lo, it was aged more than 15 months in the bottle. Fresh and fruity with lively acidity and crispness.
Yes, Cava is a sparkling wine that like Champagne undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle but they are not the same wine, and they shouldn't be. To understand Cava, it is important to know the three grapes that are the backbone of the blend: Parellada, Xarel-lo, and Macabeo. These indigenous grapes give Cava a unique flavor profile. However, other grapes, including Chardonnay are also allowed in the blend.
Eva describes Parellada as "Delicate like a ballerina. Subtle and elegant, it adds acidity to the blend." "Xarel-lo is like a strong man," said Eva, because of its higher alcohol, power, and good structure. "Macabeo is the backbone, with a good balance between alcohol, acidity, and structure. It is like a woman playing the violin."
Eva also explained the three types of aromas present in Cava. The primary aromas are those of the grapes -- green apple, citrus, and floral and reinforce why it is important to nurture and pick high quality fruit. Cava's captivating secondary aromas come from the second fermentation and the long aging time on the lees (yeast) gives Cava warm and inviting bread and brioche aromas. It takes time for Cava to develop the tertiary aromas that come with aging, such as honey, nut, and toast.
Shhhh, Cava at rest. Vilarnau Cava aging in the cellar.
The minimum aging time for Cava is 9 months but Vilarnau ages many of their wines for much longer. As we tasted, Eva reminded us that the bubbles in younger Cava are bigger and move faster in the glass because they are not yet well integrated. From bone dry to sweet, fresh to complex, Vilarnau has a Cava for every mood, meal, and moment. Visit their website to see the full range.
Vilarnau Brut Reserva Rosé Delicat ($14.99) is an elegant blend of mostly Garnacha with a kiss of Pinot Noir. As the name implies, it is a delicate wine but it is not wimpy. Aged for 15 months, the crisp and fresh fruit flavors are enhanced by a hint of creaminess. The bold and colorful bottle design is inspired by "Trencadís", a kind of mosaic that was used in the modernist artistic movement in Catalunya. Gaudi's Parc Güell in Barcelona is the most famous example of this technique.
Of course, wine and food are meant to go together and Cava & Calçots are a winning combination. If you visit Barcelona when these spring onions are in season, you can reserve your space at Vilarnau for an authentic Calçotada. A Catalan culinary tradition, families and friends gather to eat mountains of these char-grilled delicacies by hand. Smoky, sweet, and savory; the calçots are dipped in Romesco sauce. A perfect match with Vilarnau Brut Reserva Rosé Delicat. Vilarnau winemaker Eva Plazas Torné demonstrates proper calçot dipping technique.
I was 16 years old and living with a Catalan family in Barcelona when I had my first sip of Cava. That was many decades ago but visiting Vilarnau and sipping their Cava triggered that memory in vivid detail. In an instant, I recalled the audible excitement of everyone gathered around the table when the cork popped, the bubbles bouncing rhythmically in the glass, and the refreshing kiss of that first sip. I'll never be 16 again but Vilarnau's well-aged wines and Barcelona's eternal charms are poignant reminders that the passage of time can be a beautiful thing. And now I have some new Cava-centric memories to savor and share.
Gaudi's iconic La Pedrera (Casa Milá) on Passeig de Gràcia in Barcelona. I can't believe that I used to walk by this building on my way to school.
If you're planning a trip to Barcelona, a visit to Vilarnau is a sparkling addition to your itinerary. And until then, pick up a bottle of Vilarnau Cava to take your palate on a journey and spark some wanderlust.
