Wine With Wanda

Uncorking the Past: History in a Bottle at Liberty Hall Museum

Who knew that in addition to grit and vision, founding a nation required copious amounts of alcohol? America's Founding Fathers appreciated a good tipple and their writings frequently reference booze. Benjamin Franklin famously said, "Wine is constant proof that God loves us and likes to see us happy." Evidence of the drinking habits of America's political trailblazers are on display in Union, New Jersey at Liberty Hall Museum's intriguing new permanent exhibition History in a Bottle.

During a recent renovation, museum staff were shocked by the discovery of a hidden cellar filled with wine and spirits spanning two centuries. Touring the impressive collection with John Kean, president of Liberty Hall Museum, I couldn't help but chuckle when he said, "The Founding Fathers were a bunch of drunks anyway!"

John Kean, president of Liberty Hall Museum. His ancestor, William Livingston, was the first governor of New Jersey and a signer of the Constitution. Livingston built the family's landmark home in 1772.

Built in 1772, Liberty Hall Museum is the landmark estate of the Livingston and Kean families -- their family tree includes the 1st and 48th governors of New Jersey. Active in politics and public service since the American Revolution, the family hosted many of American history's prominent figures at their palatial country estate, including an overnight stay from Alexander Hamilton. More likely than not, Hamilton enjoyed a glass of Madeira during his visit.



The liquid treasures uncovered at Liberty Hall Museum include a bottle of 1796 Lenox Madeira, the same wine that Hamilton might have used to toast a political success against his future assassin, Aaron Burr. Other highlights include a bottle of 1876 Old Crow Bourbon, Brandy from the mid-1800's, and a bottle of Château Mouton Rothschild 1905! 


In addition to the 1796 Lenox Madeira, History in a Bottle features several other very old bottles of Madeira -- an indicator of the importance and popularity of this fortified wine from Portugal during the 18th and 19th centuries. There is even literature that suggests that George Washington's oath of office ceremony was followed by a Madeira toast. Even the signing of the Declaration of Independence was toasted with Madeira. 

As if the discovery of 25 bottles of Madeira dating back to 1796 and 42 demijohns from the 1820's wasn't big enough news, these Liberty Hall treasures were actually in pristine condition! As a fortified wine, Madeira has impressive aging capacity but the exceptional quality of the wines unearthed at Liberty Hall can also be attributed to the excellent conditions of the hidden cellar and the Portuguese cork. Not only did the cork stoppers endure for such an extended period of time, they did an impeccable job of protecting the Madeira. During my visit to Liberty Hall, I was invited to taste their Madeira from the mid-nineteenth century and was blown away by its incredible vitality, freshness, and finesse. 


History in a Bottle is a rare and exciting opportunity to explore 200 years of American history through the lens of wine & spirits. Also, in addition to the exhibition, Liberty Hall and its grounds, located on the campus of Kean University, are absolutely lovely. As described on their website, "over the last two centuries, the originally designed 14-room Georgian Style home has grown into a 50-room Victorian-style mansion. The site houses extensive collections of antique furniture, ceramics, textiles, toys and tools owned by seven generations of the Livingston and Kean families." A great day-trip that is easily accessible from New York City, Liberty Hall Museum is a charming journey to the past.

Bring on the Bubbly: Lucien Albrecht Cremant d'Alsace

Jérôme Keller, winemaker for Lucien Albrecht winery

Few things can rival the power of sparkling wine to break the ice between strangers. Once the cork pops and the wine flows, the walls between us begin to drop. I was reminded of bubbly's ability to connect people in a recent meeting with winemaker Jérôme Keller of Lucien Albrecht winery. We had never met before but Jérôme's wonderful wines and easygoing personality added a decidedly festive flair to our business meeting. Before long, we were laughing like old friends. 

The roots of Lucien Albrecht winery can be traced back to 1698. Located in Alsace, in northeastern France, Lucien Albrecht is regarded as a pioneer in the production of Cremant d'Alsace. Made in the same method as Champagne, Cremant d'Alsace is more than an affordable alternative to Champagne; it stands on its own as a high-quality sparkling wine. Alsace is home to a multitude of soil types and has been described as one of the most diverse terroirs in the world. This diversity, paired with the region's dry climate and plentiful sunshine, imbue Alsace grapes with impressive freshness and complexity; exactly the foundation needed to create a great sparkling wine. 

Lucien Abrecht Cremant d'Alsace ($23) tastes like a much more expensive bubbly. A blend of Pinot Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay, it is vibrant and crisp with fine bubbles and a wonderful interplay between fruit and mineral flavors. 

 

Alsace is more known for their white wines but the notoriously persnickety Pinot Noir also grows beautifully there. 100% Pinot Noir, Lucien Albrecht Brut Rosé ($23) has luscious red fruit flavors and impressive crispness that adds texture to its juicy roundness. 

Call me decadent, but in my ideal world every day would include a glass of sparkling wine. Not only do I love the sensation of tiny bubbles dancing across my palate, sparkling wines remind me that you don't need a special occasion to celebrate, life itself is reason enough. And the relative affordability of Lucien Albrecht Cremant d'Alsace makes it possible to enjoy quality sparkling wine without breaking the bank.  

Their portfolio also includes excellent examples of Alsace's most iconic white wines -- Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris. Give them a swirl too! And if you're planning a trip to Alsace, Lucien Albrecht welcomes visitors for tours and tastings. 

Give Me Some Altitude: Altura Máxima Takes Malbec to Extreme Heights

 

Martín Coscia has the answers to questions about high altitude winemaking! 

Have you ever wondered why wine geeks, including yours truly, get so excited when we talk about high altitude vineyards? It isn't just because of their stunning beauty. Grapes grown at high altitudes develop differently and you can taste it in the wine. Don't believe me? Ask Martín Coscia, high elevation vineyards expert and Brand Manager for Hess Family Latin America. Their Bodega Colomé "Altura Máxima" Malbec is produced from grapes grown in the world's highest elevation vineyard at an astounding 10,207 feet above sea level in the Salta region of Argentina.

“The true expression of terroir in this Malbec comes from the extreme altitude as well as soil composition – alluvial, sandy soils with a high percentage of gravel,” said Martín. “With a semiarid-desert climate, grapes receive much more sun, much less UV protection and produce thicker skinned grapes that deliver a robust mouthfeel supported by fresh acidity with surprising finesse.”

Fittingly, Altura Máxima means maximum height in Spanish. The vineyard and wine received this name from entrepreneur Donald Hess who succeeded in his audacious mission to plant the world's highest elevation vineyard. Taste the difference for yourself in the currently available 2015 vintage of Altura Máxima. Sustainably farmed and aged for 24 months, production was limited to 27 barrels. Priced at $135, it is a worthwhile and exciting splurge for Malbec lovers who want to experience a unique and beautifully crafted expression of Argentina's signature vino. Go ahead and take your sipping to new heights!

Follow the Bubbles in Barcelona and Spark Some Joy at Vilarnau Cava

Not far from Barcelona's bustling boulevards and ancient alleyways, a wine lover's adventure awaits you in Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, the heart and soul of Cava production. More than a wine made in the same labor intensive method as Champagne, Cava proudly stands on its own as a sparkling wine. Cava has a Catalan soul and expresses its unique terroir and traditions. I recently had the pleasure of experiencing this first-hand on a recent visit to Vilarnau. 

 Founded in 1949, in 1982 Vilarnau became part of the prestigious Gonzàlez Byass family of wineries. Located just an hour from Barcelona, Vilarnau is one of about 100 Cava houses in Sant Sadurní d'Anoia but they are perhaps the most expressive of their connection to Catalunya's capital city -- their bottles proudly say Vilarnau Barcelona. Their portfolio even includes bottles with graphics inspired by the iconic Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí. Who truly knows when Gaudí's Sagrada Família will be finished but trust me, you'll have no problems polishing off a bottle of delicious Vilarnau Cava!

image courtesy of Vilarnau

A visit to Vilarnau is a fantastic day-trip from Barcelona and the winery offers a wide variety of activities. While traditional tours and tastings are available, Vilarnau steps it up many notches with tours by Segway, motorized bike, or even helicopter. However you choose to tour Vilarnau's vineyards, seeing the vines provides tremendous context to the wines you will taste. And if you really want to have a hands-on experience in the vineyards, Vilarnau will happily put you to work grape treading and pruning, during season. 

My guide for the day was the bubbly and knowledgable Eva Plazas Torné, technical director and a member of the winemaking team at Vilarnau. A native of Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, Eva grew up surrounded by Cava and her life experience is complemented by her degree in agricultural engineering. From the vineyards to the cellar, Eva was a priceless source of information and her enthusiasm is contagious. Meeting Eva reminded me that everyone should have a career that brings them so much joy and also brings happiness to those around them. (I love my job but maybe in my next life I could make Cava?)

Cava Vilarnau Brut Reserva ($14.99) is a fantastic introduction to their style. A classic blend of Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarel-lo, it was aged more than 15 months in the bottle. Fresh and fruity with lively acidity and crispness. 

Yes, Cava is a sparkling wine that like Champagne undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle but they are not the same wine, and they shouldn't be. To understand Cava, it is important to know the three grapes that are the backbone of the blend: Parellada, Xarel-lo, and Macabeo. These indigenous grapes give Cava a unique flavor profile. However, other grapes, including Chardonnay are also allowed in the blend. 

Eva describes Parellada as "Delicate like a ballerina. Subtle and elegant, it adds acidity to the blend." "Xarel-lo is like a strong man," said Eva, because of its higher alcohol, power, and good structure. "Macabeo is the backbone, with a good balance between alcohol, acidity, and structure. It is like a woman playing the violin."


Eva also explained the three types of aromas present in Cava. The primary aromas are those of the grapes -- green apple, citrus, and floral and reinforce why it is important to nurture and pick high quality fruit. Cava's captivating secondary aromas come from the second fermentation and the long aging time on the lees (yeast) gives Cava warm and inviting bread and brioche aromas. It takes time for Cava to develop the tertiary aromas that come with aging, such as honey, nut, and toast. 

Shhhh, Cava at rest. Vilarnau Cava aging in the cellar. 

The minimum aging time for Cava is 9 months but Vilarnau ages many of their wines for much longer. As we tasted, Eva reminded us that the bubbles in younger Cava are bigger and move faster in the glass because they are not yet well integrated. From bone dry to sweet, fresh to complex, Vilarnau has a Cava for every mood, meal, and moment. Visit their website to see the full range. 

Vilarnau Brut Reserva Rosé Delicat ($14.99) is an elegant blend of mostly Garnacha with a kiss of Pinot Noir. As the name implies, it is a delicate wine but it is not wimpy. Aged for 15 months, the crisp and fresh fruit flavors are enhanced by a hint of creaminess. The bold and colorful bottle design is inspired by "Trencadís", a kind of mosaic that was used in the modernist artistic movement in Catalunya. Gaudi's Parc Güell in Barcelona is the most famous example of this technique. 

Of course, wine and food are meant to go together and Cava & Calçots are a winning combination. If you visit Barcelona when these spring onions are in season, you can reserve your space at Vilarnau for an authentic Calçotada. A Catalan culinary tradition, families and friends gather to eat mountains of these char-grilled delicacies by hand. Smoky, sweet, and savory; the calçots are dipped in Romesco sauce. A perfect match with Vilarnau Brut Reserva Rosé Delicat. 

Vilarnau winemaker Eva Plazas Torné demonstrates proper calçot dipping technique. 

I was 16 years old and living with a Catalan family in Barcelona when I had my first sip of Cava. That was many decades ago but visiting Vilarnau and sipping their Cava triggered that memory in vivid detail. In an instant, I recalled the audible excitement of everyone gathered around the table when the cork popped, the bubbles bouncing rhythmically in the glass, and the refreshing kiss of that first sip. I'll never be 16 again but Vilarnau's well-aged wines and Barcelona's eternal charms are poignant reminders that the passage of time can be a beautiful thing. And now I have some new Cava-centric memories to savor and share. 


Gaudi's iconic La Pedrera (Casa Milá) on Passeig de Gràcia in Barcelona. I can't believe that I used to walk by this building on my way to school.

If you're planning a trip to Barcelona, a visit to Vilarnau is a sparkling addition to your itinerary. And until then, pick up a bottle of Vilarnau Cava to take your palate on a journey and spark some wanderlust. 

 

One Cool Countess: The Wonderful Wine Life of Beatrice Contini Bonacossi

image courtesy of Capezzana

Should I ever become a countess, Beatrice Contini Bonacossi has provided the perfect blue print for living life as nobility. First, there's no need to flaunt your title around -- Beatrice simply introduces herself as Bea. Second, use your privilige to bring beauty to the world -- Bea accomplishes this goal in her role as proprietor and ambassador for her family's iconic winery, Capezzana. Third, never lose your sense of wonder -- "It is a beautiful job because you never stop learning," said Bea when I met with her recently in New York City. 

Capezzana may be located in Italy's smallest appellation, Carmignano, but it has a very rich history. Tuscany's oldest wine producing estate, winemaking at Capezzana can be traced back to the year 804! The former estate of the influential Medici family, the vineyards of Capezzana were home to Italy's very first plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon. Motivated by her love of wine and/or her husband, Catherine de' Medici had Cabernet Sauvignon imported to Capezzana when she married King Henry of France in the 16th century. The Contini Bonacossi family has owned this historic estate since 1920 and Bea's sister Benedetta has been Capezzana's winemaker since 1990. 

image courtesy of Capezzana

Carmignano may not be a household name but the wines produced in this historic Tuscan region speak volumes. Not only is Chianti their famous neighbor, both regions were formally recognized as winemaking regions in 1716 and are bound by their affinity for wines produced from Tuscany's most iconic grape, Sangiovese. Capezzana is not only a big player in the region because of their significant contributions to its winemaking legacy but also because they account for more than half of the region's entire production of Carmignano DOCG wines. They are also the first certified organic commercial winery in Carmignano. 

Capezzana crafts wines that beautifully express their unique terroir. "In the same vineyard, we can have three to four different types of soil. We have microclimates within microclimates," said Bea. This diversity of soil types and microclimates produce grapes with a range of flavor profiles. Capezzana also ferments their grapes with their native yeasts, believing that the resulting wines will have a more authentic taste of their territory. 


Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC 2016 ($17) is an excellent introduction to Capezzana. An enticing blend of Sangiovese (70%) with Cabernet Sauvignon (15%), Canaiolo (10%), and Cabernet Franc (5%); it has juicy and vibrant flavors of blackberry and dark cherry. Luscious and rich but quite fresh, this is a versatile food pairing wine that works with everything from pasta to pork. 


A blend of Sangiovese (80%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), Villa di Capezzana DOCG 2015 ($27) is an elegant expression of power and grace. A more complex red wine, it balances rich red and black fruit flavors with savory tinges of herbs, coffee, and licorice. A great wine for pairing with red meat, it would also work brilliantly with roast chicken or duck. 

Bold Trefiano Riserva DOCG 2015 ($55) gets better with every sip. A blend of Sangiovese (80%) Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), and Canaiolo (10%), it evolves elegantly in the glass; don't rush the experience. Across the board, Capezzana's wines have an uplifting acidity that adds a gracefulness to a wine as opulent as Trefiano. 2015 was an exceptional vintage in Italy and the excellent character of the grapes shines through in Trefiano. A voluptuous wine, Trefiano is a tasty tapestry of intense fruit, spice, and herbal flavors. The 2013 Trefiano is also quite exceptional. 

Ghiaie della Furba 2012 ($60) contains not one drop of Sangiovese but it is an indisputably Tuscan expression of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Syrah (30%), and Merlot (20%). Supple but not flabby, rich flavors of ripe black cherry and plum are heightened by an exciting kick of spice. 

Bea chuckled as she described Vin Santo as her winemaker sister Benedetta's "favorite child". Capezzana Vin Santo Riserva DOC 2011($55) is a wonderful expression of Tuscany's celebrated dessert wine. A blend of Trebbiano (90%) and San Colombano (10%) grapes that were dried before pressing, the wine was aged in small casks for five years. Also described as a "meditation wine", the beauty of this Vin Santo is that its sweetness is balanced by lively acidity so that it isn't cloying. 

If you're planning a trip to Tuscany, Capezzana welcomes visitors. In addition to wine tours and tastings, guests can learn Tuscan culinary traditions at their cooking school, dine at the Vinsantaia restaurant, and sleep sweet dreams during an overnight stay. And don't leave Capezzana without picking up a bottle of their excellent organic extra virgin olive oil! 

Take Your Palate on a Rosé Adventure: 5 Tasty Pink Wines from 4 Different Countries

Can you even imagine summer without rosé? Luckily, we don't have to! Rosé wines are delicious year-round but there's no denying that these flirty pink sips are particularly suited to the sunny and carefree vibe of the summer season. Pretty and refreshing, rosé wines are a fun way to explore new regions and grapes. I plan on taking my taste buds on a delicious rosé journey all summer long and will keep you updated with short reviews of my favorites. This week's selections include sensational pink wines from Australia, Italy, France, and Spain. Cheers! 

Frescobaldi Alìe 2018 ($18.99)
Tuscany, Italy
About four years ago, I had the pleasure of visiting Frescobaldi's stunning Ammiraglia estate in Tuscany's coastal Maremma region. I recently sipped their elegant Alìe rose at an event in NYC and was instantly transported back to that beautiful time and place. A blend of Syrah and Vermentino, Alìe is pale pink but bursting with lively red fruit flavors. Deliciously dry with a touch of minerality, this refreshing sip is worthy of its name that was inspired by a fabled sea nymph. 

Cape Mentelle Rosè 2018 ($18.99)
Margaret River, Australia
There's lots of flavor in this full-bodied and juicy rosé from Down Under. A bold blend of Shiraz, Grenache, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Mourvèdre, and Viognier; it has lip-smacking flavors of ripe strawberries and cream, peach, melon, and citrus. Crisp acidity keeps it vibrant and lively.

Baron de Ley Rioja Rosé 2018 ($11)
Rioja, Spain
Would you like your rosé with a bit of olé? Try this superb sip from Spain! 100% Garnacha, this pale pink beauty packs plenty of flavor and finesse. Luscious and crisp with juicy flavors of fresh red berries; this is an easy-breezy and elegant vino. 

Esprit Gassier Côtes de Provence 2018 ($22)
Provence, France
No rosé journey is complete without a stop in Provence! This picturesque region in the south of France launched a global obsession with pale pink wines. There is no shortage of excellent rosé from Provence and this elegant offering from Château Gassier doesn't disappoint. A classic blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and Vermentino, this refreshing sip has crisp flavors of red berries, white peach, and a zippy kiss of citrus.

Les Dauphins Côtes du Rhône Rosé Reserve ($10.99)
Côtes du Rhône, France
One of the best values in wine, Les Dauphins rosé is well-made and consistently delicious. A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah, this perky pink sip from the southern Rhône Valley has pretty melon and berry flavors that are fruity with a hint of sweetness and lively acidity. This is a very happy wine!