image courtesy of Capezzana
Should I ever become a countess, Beatrice Contini Bonacossi has provided the perfect blue print for living life as nobility. First, there's no need to flaunt your title around -- Beatrice simply introduces herself as Bea. Second, use your privilige to bring beauty to the world -- Bea accomplishes this goal in her role as proprietor and ambassador for her family's iconic winery, Capezzana. Third, never lose your sense of wonder -- "It is a beautiful job because you never stop learning," said Bea when I met with her recently in New York City.
Capezzana may be located in Italy's smallest appellation, Carmignano, but it has a very rich history. Tuscany's oldest wine producing estate, winemaking at Capezzana can be traced back to the year 804! The former estate of the influential Medici family, the vineyards of Capezzana were home to Italy's very first plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon. Motivated by her love of wine and/or her husband, Catherine de' Medici had Cabernet Sauvignon imported to Capezzana when she married King Henry of France in the 16th century. The Contini Bonacossi family has owned this historic estate since 1920 and Bea's sister Benedetta has been Capezzana's winemaker since 1990.
image courtesy of Capezzana
Carmignano may not be a household name but the wines produced in this historic Tuscan region speak volumes. Not only is Chianti their famous neighbor, both regions were formally recognized as winemaking regions in 1716 and are bound by their affinity for wines produced from Tuscany's most iconic grape, Sangiovese. Capezzana is not only a big player in the region because of their significant contributions to its winemaking legacy but also because they account for more than half of the region's entire production of Carmignano DOCG wines. They are also the first certified organic commercial winery in Carmignano.
Capezzana crafts wines that beautifully express their unique terroir. "In the same vineyard, we can have three to four different types of soil. We have microclimates within microclimates," said Bea. This diversity of soil types and microclimates produce grapes with a range of flavor profiles. Capezzana also ferments their grapes with their native yeasts, believing that the resulting wines will have a more authentic taste of their territory.
Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC 2016 ($17) is an excellent introduction to Capezzana. An enticing blend of Sangiovese (70%) with Cabernet Sauvignon (15%), Canaiolo (10%), and Cabernet Franc (5%); it has juicy and vibrant flavors of blackberry and dark cherry. Luscious and rich but quite fresh, this is a versatile food pairing wine that works with everything from pasta to pork.
A blend of Sangiovese (80%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), Villa di Capezzana DOCG 2015 ($27) is an elegant expression of power and grace. A more complex red wine, it balances rich red and black fruit flavors with savory tinges of herbs, coffee, and licorice. A great wine for pairing with red meat, it would also work brilliantly with roast chicken or duck.
Bold Trefiano Riserva DOCG 2015 ($55) gets better with every sip. A blend of Sangiovese (80%) Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), and Canaiolo (10%), it evolves elegantly in the glass; don't rush the experience. Across the board, Capezzana's wines have an uplifting acidity that adds a gracefulness to a wine as opulent as Trefiano. 2015 was an exceptional vintage in Italy and the excellent character of the grapes shines through in Trefiano. A voluptuous wine, Trefiano is a tasty tapestry of intense fruit, spice, and herbal flavors. The 2013 Trefiano is also quite exceptional.
Ghiaie della Furba 2012 ($60) contains not one drop of Sangiovese but it is an indisputably Tuscan expression of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Syrah (30%), and Merlot (20%). Supple but not flabby, rich flavors of ripe black cherry and plum are heightened by an exciting kick of spice.
Bea chuckled as she described Vin Santo as her winemaker sister Benedetta's "favorite child". Capezzana Vin Santo Riserva DOC 2011($55) is a wonderful expression of Tuscany's celebrated dessert wine. A blend of Trebbiano (90%) and San Colombano (10%) grapes that were dried before pressing, the wine was aged in small casks for five years. Also described as a "meditation wine", the beauty of this Vin Santo is that its sweetness is balanced by lively acidity so that it isn't cloying.
If you're planning a trip to Tuscany, Capezzana welcomes visitors. In addition to wine tours and tastings, guests can learn Tuscan culinary traditions at their cooking school, dine at the Vinsantaia restaurant, and sleep sweet dreams during an overnight stay. And don't leave Capezzana without picking up a bottle of their excellent organic extra virgin olive oil!
