image courtesy of Domaine Carneros
Repeat after me - "Champagne only comes from Champagne, France." This mantra is one of wine's golden rules but what happens when an iconic Champagne house decides to make sparkling wine in California? That was the bold decision taken by Champagne Taittinger when they secured a 138-acre parcel in the heart of Carneros, Napa Valley in 1987. Focused on the production of traditional method sparkling wines and Pinot Noir, Domaine Carneros isn't in the business of foolishly trying to replicate what they do in France but rather on the creation of a "quintessential California expression of Taittinger style."
"Our job is to make wines that reflect our unique terroir," said TJ Evans, Domaine Carneros Pinot Noir winemaker, when I met with him recently. His colleague, Eileen Crane, is the founding winemaker and CEO of Domaine Carneros and is often referred to as "America's Doyenne of Sparkling Wine" because of her impressive 40 years of experience in the wine industry. Together, TJ and Eileen make a formidable team.
There is certainly a French elegance to the Domaine Carneros wines that I tasted but that precision is punctuated with a tinge of California exuberance. As TJ eloquently said, "Our wines show more of the sunshine."
Domaine Carneros Brut Cuvée 2015 ($35) is an elegant introduction to their style. A blend of Chardonnay (51%), Pinot Noir (47%), and Pinot Gris (2%), this charming bubbly is classic but not boring. Made in the same labor intensive method as champagne (Méthode Traditionelle), Brut Cuvée was aged three and half years in the cellar to enhance its complexity. Round and full with fine bubbles, a luscious creamy texture, and flavors of baked pear, lemon meringue, and a hint of citrus; this is a very versatile wine for food pairing -- winemaker Eileen Crane particularly enjoys it with cheeses or roast chicken.
Considered their finest sparkling wine, TJ described Domaine Carneros Le Réve Blanc de Blancs 2012 ($115) as "made to age." Crafted from 100% estate grown grapes, it is a pure expression of terroir. Le Réve is French for "the dream" and there is certainly an ethereal quality to this beautiful bubbly. A complex and elegant tapestry of flavors, Le Réve sashays across the palate with flavors of white flowers, Meyer lemon, poached pear, honeysuckle, and a hint of luscious créme brûlée. Suggested pairings include lobster, scallops, fish, poultry, and rich creamy cheeses.
A blend of Pinot Noir (59%) and Chardonnay (41%), Domaine Carneros Cuvée de la Pompadour Brut Rosé ($37) strikes that perfect balance between fun and sophisticated. Named after Louis XV's lover, Madame de la Pompadour, it is a tasty tribute to the woman who introduced sparkling wine to the court at Versailles. Fresh red fruit flavors are accented by hints of tangerine, orange, and peach. Vibrant and fruit-forward but quite dry, suggested pairings include duck, salmon, and desserts with fresh berries.
Domaine Carneros Estate Pinot Noir 2016 ($42) lives up to winemaker TJ Evans's statement that "Pinot Noir is all about the texture." Crafted from 100% estate grown Pinot Noir, it is supple and nuanced with a dynamic range of red and dark berry flavors, earth, tea leaves, and a sassy kick of spice. Juicy and rich but very graceful, it pairs beautifully with beef, poultry, pork, and grilled salmon.
If you're planning a trip to Napa, Domaine Carneros is about 50 miles from the Golden Gate Bridge and welcomes visitors, by appointment, for tastings and tours. Their stunning château is modeled after Château de la Marquetterie, the home of Champagne Taittinger in Champagne, France.
