Wine With Wanda

Even Legends Evolve: Meet Piper-Heidsieck Champagne's New Cellar Master

 

"You should only drink champagne on special occasions, but every day you can find a special occasion." - Émilien Boutillat, Cellar Master, Piper-Heidsieck

To call it destiny may seem overdramatic but it certainly seems that Émilien Boutillat was meant to be the new Cellar Master of Piper-Heidsieck Champagne. A native of the Champagne region and from a family of grape growers & champagne producers, Émilien has worked as a winemaker on his home turf and abroad; including in Chile, New Zealand, South Africa, and California. Émilien remembers visiting the Piper-Heidsieck cellars as a child and never imagined that one day he would take the lead role at one of the world’s most iconic and celebrated Champagne houses. Yes, he’s only in his early 30’s but Émilien, a trained oenologist and agricultural engineer, brings a wealth of experience and passion to his role. Émilien said that he will always respect the DNA of Piper-Heidsieck but looks forward to adding his personal touch to their champagnes. 


Due to the long aging process of champagne, we will have to wait a few years to taste Émilien’s influence on Piper-Heidsieck but during our lunch he did share the House's soon-to-be-released Brut Vintage 2012 ($80). Full of life, complexity, and nuance, the 2012 is superb. Only produced in exceptional vintages, 2008 was the last vintage of this special champagne. A blend of Chardonnay (48%) and Pinot Noir (52%), it is elegant and exuberant with flavors of ripe pear, apricot, and red cherry with savory hints of toast and chocolate, all riding along a wave of crisp and creamy bubbles. The 2012 is a gorgeous reminder of why Émilien's predecessor, Régis Camus, was honored 8 times as Sparkling Winemaker of the Year by the International Wine Challenge. Yes, Émilien is certainly following in the footsteps of a legend but I suspect that this talented young winemaker may very well be a legend in the making. 

Rosé Spotlight: Mathilde Chapoutier "Grand Ferrage" Côtes de Provence 2018

Rosé season is in full swing and I'm ready to sip my way around the world! Not only do I love discovering wines from different producers and regions, summer is the perfect time to sample the new vintages of my favorite pink wines. My first experience with Mathilde Chapoutier "Grand Ferrage" Côtes de Provence was with the 2015 debut vintage and it was love at first sip. I'm happy to report that the thrill is still there with the 2018 vintage. (Available now for $24.) 

Mathilde Chapoutier in the vineyards of Château Des Ferrages 
image courtesy of Mathilde Chapoutier

Mathilde is the daughter of iconic wine producer Michel Chapoutier but through the delicate power of her rosé she has made a name for herself. A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and Rolle from Mathilde's vineyard at the foot of the Saint-Victoire mountains, Grand Ferrage is a classic Provençal rosé. Dry yet juicy with vibrant acidity and flavors of fresh strawberry, grapefruit, and apricot; this pretty pink wine is absolutely refreshing.  

When I met Mathilde in 2016 she described her rosé as "simple, elegant, and easy to drink." She hasn't veered from this approach and the consistency of Grand Ferrage is impressive. Well-made and very approachable, this is my kind of rosé! 

This is a sponsored post but I am a true fan of this wine and all opinions are my own! 

Green Spain in a Glass: Albariño from Rías Baixas

Greed is good when it comes to Albariño from Rías Baixas. Trust me, it would be foolish to deny yourself the pleasure of sipping this charming white wine from Galicia, also known as "Green Spain" because of its lush landscape. Galicia's proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, unique climate, and mineral-rich soils imbue Albariño grapes from Rías Baixas with impressive freshness, crispness, minerality, and salinity. And it's not surprising that the finest expressions of Albariño hail from Rías Baixas; the grape is indigenous to the region. 

image courtesy of Rías Baixas wines

Within the Rías Baixas DO (Denomination of Origin), there are five sub-regions with unique micro-climates that produce wines with subtle differences. Easy-breezy expressions of Albariño may be the most familiar but other styles are also available, including sparkling and aged. There's nothing boring about Rías Baixas Albariño; these are white wines with presence, personality, and panache. Aromatic, fruity, crisp, and dry; Albariño from Rías Baixas merits a place in your glass. I recommend exploring Albariño from Rías Baixas with these four fantastic wines. Cheers! 

Terras Gauda O Rosal 2017 ($24)
A seductively aromatic blend of Albariño (70%), Caiño Blanco (22%), and Loureiro (8%). Rich and intense with hints of ripe peach. 

Vionta Albariño 2017 ($15)
100% Albariño. Creamy with a tinge of salinity and lively flavors of lemon and green tea. 

100% Albariño, Paco & Lola 2012 ($50) shows that Albariño has the capacity to age beautifully. Rich and round with good acidity, it is a harmonious tapestry of ripe fruit flavors with a tinge of cream, toast, and salinity. 

Albariño gets the sparkling treatment in Sensum Laxas 2017 ($48). Made in the traditional champagne method, this elegant expression of 100% Albariño grapes has delicate bubbles and hints of honey and brioche. 

Pink Wines, Good Times: Let the Rosé Flow This Summer!

Can you even imagine summer without rosé? Luckily, we don't have to! Rosé wines are delicious year-round but there's no denying that these flirty pink sips are particularly suited to the sunny and carefree vibe of the summer season. Pretty and refreshing, rosé wines are a fun way to explore new regions and grapes. I plan on taking my taste buds on a delicious rosé journey all summer long and will keep you updated with short reviews of my favorites. Cheers! 

Blaine Ashley, co-creator of Lokē Rosé, is brightening up summer with a limited-edition Côtes de Provence Rosé inspired by her home state of Hawaii. 
image courtesy of Lokē Rosé

A blend of Grenache and Cinsault, Lokē 2018 ($18) is a classic Provençal style rosé wine. Dry and crisp with fresh red fruit flavors, Lokē is refreshing and lively. A portion of the proceeds from this charming wine benefit Ukulele Kids Club Inc., a non-profit that brings the gift of music to children in hospitals. A delicious way to make a difference! 

Elegant Pinot Noir gets to show off her playful side in Etude Pinot Noir Rosé, Santa Barbara County 2018 ($25). Very crisp and refreshing with delicate flavors of strawberry, cherry, blood orange, and watermelon; tangy acidity adds a dash of sass to this superb sip!   

Sip in style this summer with Hecht & Bannier “H & B” Côtes de Provence 2018 ($19.99). This elegant and vivacious blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Rolle (Vermentino) is always one of my summer favorites. Boasting beautiful red fruit flavors with a touch of white peach, melon, and a tangy tinge of fennel; I dare you to drink it and not exclaim ooh la la after the first sip!  

The Bon Vivant of Ruffino: Beppe d'Andrea Shares Tuscany's Wines and Lifestyle with the World

Beppe in the Big Apple! What a great afternoon of wines and conversation at Upland restaurant with Beppe d'Andrea of Ruffino winery during his whirlwind visit to NYC. 

Beppe d'Andrea is living the dream. As the Global Brand Ambassador for Ruffino winery, Beppe jet sets around the world sharing the infinite charms of "La Vita Ruffino", their mantra for the fine Italian art of good living. For quite some time, I've been happily following Beppe's adventures on social media and I finally had the opportunity to share some wine and conversation with this tireless Tuscan. Charming, energetic, knowledgable, and down-to-earth, Beppe has been with Ruffino for 32 years and represents everything a brand ambassador should be. 

One of the most familiar names in the world of Italian wine, Ruffino was founded in 1877 by cousins Ilario and Leopoldo Ruffino in Tuscany. The very first Chianti exported to the United States, Ruffino is a staple at any well-stocked wine shop. Ruffino's portfolio showcases some of Tuscany's most celebrated wines, including Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, and those captivating blends known as Super Tuscans. "The quality of the wine is not just the juice in the bottle," said Beppe. He further explained that for Ruffino winemaking is about "respect, tradition, and love." Those ideals are manifested in actions such as Ruffino actively taking strides towards 100% organic production. 

image courtesy of Il Relais Ruffino

Explaining that Ruffino's "goal is not to make just good wine but a good life style," Beppe shared news of their very first hotel property, Il Relais Ruffino. Designed to fully immerse guests in La Vita Ruffino, the luxuriously appointed 7-room inn is surrounded by olive trees and vineyards in the heart of Chianti Classico. Located just 20 minutes from Florence at Ruffino's Poggio Casciano estate, the property includes a dramatic infinity swimming pool facing a hillside vineyard where you can sip and lounge the day away. Other activities include wine tastings, vineyard tours, and meals at Locanda Ruffino. 

image courtesy of Il Relais Ruffino

A stay at Il Relais Ruffino has been added to my travel wish list. And if any of my friends are reading this, let's plan to rent out the property for a truly elegant and relaxing Tuscan getaway. If we're lucky, maybe Beppe will be there to greet us! 

Of course, Ruffino's wines make it possible to experience a taste of La Vita Ruffino no matter where you are. 

2015 Ruffino Tenuta Santedame Chianti Classico DOCG ($20) is mostly Sangiovese (80%) blended with Merlot, Colorino, Cabernet, and Canaiolo. 2015 was an exceptional vintage throughout Tuscany and this Chianti Classico is beautifully balanced and full of vitality. Fresh, juicy, and velvety flavors of plum, blackberry, and a hint of savory balsamic. 


A blend of Sangiovese (34%), Cabernet Sauvignon (33%), and Merlot (33%), 2015 Ruffino Modus Toscana IGT ($25) is plush and robust with silky tannins. Aged in French oak for 12 months, subtle hints of spice beautifully accent luscious fruit flavors and hints of herbs. 

Produced only in the very best vintages, only 5,000 bottles of 2015 Ruffino Alauda IGT Toscana ($100) were made. A voluptuous yet graceful blend of Cabernet Franc (40%), Merlot (35%), and Colorino (25%), Alauda shows the magic that can happen when the blessing of an exceptional vintage is married to intuitive yet precise winemaking. With rich berry and plum flavors and hints of chocolate, espresso, and earth, Alauda is superb now and will age exquisitely. 

2013 Ruffino Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG ($80) is a fine example of a classic Brunello. Rich but not overbearing, this elegant expression of 100% Sangiovese Grosso dazzles with intense red fruit flavors and sultry hints of chocolate and earth.

Visit the Ruffino website to learn more about Ruffino's wines, history, and details on arranging a visit. 

Back to the Beginning: A Heartwarming Wine Reunion with Marchesi di Barolo

 

Such a joy to catch up with Anna Abbona of the iconic Marchesi di Barolo winery. 

In the early days of my wine writing journey I was invited to an intimate tasting in Manhattan featuring the wines of Marchesi di Barolo. Back in 2012, I had never visited Italy, probably couldn't find Piedmont on a map, and had no idea that Nebbiolo was the grape used to make Barolo. Taking my seat at the table, I wondered how I ended up with a Master of Wine to my right and a major wine critic across from me. Humbled and exhilarated, I soaked up every bit of knowledge as the experts discussed the nuances of the exquisite decades-old wines in our glasses. But my strongest memory that day is of the Abbona family, the owners, producers, and ambassadors of Marchesi di Barolo: Anna the elegant matriarch, Ernesto the stoic patriarch and fifth-generation winemaker, Valentina the charismatic eldest child who translated for her father, and Davide the shy but sweet youngest member of the famiglia Abbona. 

Meet the Abbona family! Ernesto, Valentina, Davide, and Anna. 
image courtesy of Marchesi di Barolo 

So much has changed in my life since that day seven years ago. I've learned more about wine, been to Italy more than a dozen times, and know many wonderful winemakers. But I've never forgotten that tasting with the Abbona family. The beauty of their wines and closeness as a family left a big impression on me. But I also remember that every member of the Abbona family treated me with warmth and respect. They made me feel just as important as the big shots in the room. 

So when I received an invitation a few months ago to meet with Anna Abbona while she was in NYC, my heart skipped a beat. Too many years had passed since our last meeting and I could not wait to taste Marchesi di Barolo with Anna by my side. Greeting each other with big hugs, it felt like no time had passed at all. But some things had certainly changed. Her daughter Valentina is now known globally as a passionate ambassador of her family's wines and Davide's teen years and shyness are behind him and he is also an integral and visible part of the family business. Anna told me that she's so happy that her children genuinely love the business and that she doesn't take it for granted. 

And the Marchesi di Barolo wines were as wonderful as I remember. Anna said, "Every wine is different. You can recognize our style but each wine has its own personality." But Anna also acknowledges that as "the winery where Barolo was born, we have to maintain tradition."

100% Cortese, crisp and refreshing Marchesi di Barolo Gavi di Gavi DOCG 2017 ($20) is a great match with the mood and meals of summer. Full and vibrant citrus flavors with touches of chamomile, almond, and salinity. 

Austere but elegant, Marchesi di Barolo Tradizione Barolo DOCG 2014 ($58) is a fine example of a traditional Barolo and the house style. Earthy and nuanced flavors of tart cherry, truffles, and tea leaves. 

Full and round, Marchesi di Barolo "Ruvei" Barbera d'Alba DOC 2016 ($21) gets added complexity from a dash of Nebbiolo (15%). Robust cherry and red-fruit flavors with hints of herbs and white pepper. 


 100% Barbera, Marchesi di Barolo "Peiragal" Barbera d'Alba DOC 2014 ($32) is a charming and fruit-forward vino. Soft and juicy with great acidity with some tantalizing toasty notes. Elegant and easygoing.

Anna proudly cradles a bottle of Marchesi di Barolo "Sarmassa" Barolo DOCG 2013 ($119). A stunning single-vineyard Barolo, Sarmassa transmits the story of terroir and impeccable winemaking. A powerful and complex wine with precise structure, Sarmassa has the capacity to age at least 25-30 years. 

It was such a joy to reconnect with Anna and to learn more of the Abbona family's story through her words and their wines. Now that I can find Piedmont on the map, I hope to visit the Marchesi di Barolo estate on a future trip to Italy. Are you headed to Piemonte? Make your reservation for a wine tasting or dinner at Marchesi di Barolo. And no passport is needed to take your palate on a journey with their expressive and elegant wines.